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pogrešila. Koreja i Japan su potpuno različiti i sigurnasam da je Bulguk-sa sasvim drugačiji od budističkihhramova u Kjotu i okolini. Mila se oduševila hramomBulguk-sa.Za nama je ostala kulturna svečanost Gyeongjua ipošli smo na istok, ka moru. Istočno more, odmaralištai plaže sa belim peskom, male luke, ribarski čamcisvi su nam uputili dobrodošlicu i stvorili nam osećajslobode. Našem vodiču, koji se ipak nije uklopio, biloje dosta nas, ali i nama je bilo dosta njega. Stvar je usvoje ruke uzeo prijatan i miran mladi čovek koji nasje vozio. Za razliku od našeg vodiča koji je uvek išaou suprotnom smeru, on je shvatao šta mi želimo. Biloje vreme ručku i predložio nam je korejski restoran umalom ribarskom selu. Na spoljnom zidu je bio akvarijum,kao izlog, i vi samo pokažete ribu koju želite zaručak. Prepustile smo izbor vozaču i ušle u prazanrestoran. Leto je prošlo. Ljubazno su nas pozdravili.Restoran je bio tradicionalan, pa smo skinule cipele iprišle niskom stolu. Smislila sam kako da sednemuljudno – klekla sam, stavila dva jastuka na noge itako sela. Sveža riba, povrće, školjke, rakovi, sve ljutoi začinjeno. Bilo je drugih priloga:kiseli beli luk, morska trava,povrće u činijcama, nekakav crnipasulj i kimči. Posle ručka šetalesmo izmedju ribarskih čamaca iredova i redova oka¬enih lignjikoje su se sušile na konopcimakao sveže oprano rublje. Lignjekoje se suše pratile su nas celimputem pored obale. Spustilo seveče a sa njim su se pojavile isvetiljke na ribarskim čamcima udaljini. Bilo je jasno da nećemostići u hotel u planinama. Naš vodič je postao nervozan.Svaki čas je razgovarao sa svojom agencijom iodluka je doneta. Stizali smo, ali gde? Znale smo danismo stigle do planina, jer smo stali ubrzo pošto smoskrenuli sa obalnog puta.Novi hotel je bio porodični, u korejskom stilu. Dosoba smo stigle preko veoma dobro snabdevenog supermarketa.Dobile smo apartman sa dve sobe. U jednoj jebio dupli krevet, u drugoj dušeci na podu. Osim togaimale smo i dobro opremljenu kuhinju i kupatilo kojenismo umele da koristimo. Morale smo da ostavimocipele pred vratima. Bile smo isuviše umorne da bismoobraćale pažnju na tuš.Ujutru smo videle da smo se prevarile. Planine subile pred nama i kasnije tokom puta do Seula uživalesmo u pejsažu. Sa puta smo mogle da posmatramoplaninske lance na horizontu i zlatne doline u dubini,vijuganje sporih reka. Zastajale smo da slikamo i daupijemo sve utiske i ponesemo ih zauvek.Celo Korejsko poluostrvo presecaju šumovite, stenoviteplanine. Samo 20 procenata poluostrva je ravnica,pa ipak planine nisu visoke.Najviši vrh u Južnoj Koreji iznosi1915 metara. Koreja se nalazi najednom od najstarijih kopnenihdelova sveta, i kao što je nekoobjasnio poluostrvo se naginje kazapadu, a zatim se obrušava uŽuto more. Zbog toga je obalaoivičena stotinama ostrva. A naistočnoj obali planine se spuštajudirektno na obalu sa mnoštvommalih uvala. Predeo izmedjuistočne obale gde smo prespavali iapparently superbly restored, andis a splendid example of UnifiedSilla-era architecture. UnfortunatelyI had reacted the way Ireact in Europe when during a siteseeing tour I see too many churches.I had already seen quite a numberof Japanese temples whilestaying in Kyoto and I thought inmy ignorance that too many templeswere just one temple toomuch. Now, having read aboutKorea I feel embarrassed. I was sowrong. Korea and Japan are twosuch totally different countriesthat I am certain that Bulguk-sa isvery different from the Buddhisttemples in and around Kyoto. Mila loved the temple ofBulguk-sa.We left the cultural feast of Gyeongju behind andheaded eastward in the direction of the sea. Seeing theEast Sea and the resorts with white sand beaches, smallports, and fishing boats gave us a very welcoming feelingof freedom. Our not so compatible guide was gettingfed up with us and us with him. The nice and quietyoung man who acted as a driver then took over. Heunderstood our tastes unlike our official guide whoalways headed in the opposite direction. It was time forlunch and he then proposed a meal at a Korean restaurantin a small fishing-resort village. There was anaquarium on the outside wall, just like a shop window,and you chose your menu by pointing to the fish youwanted.We left the choice to the driver and walked intoa deserted restaurant. The summer was over. We weregraciously welcomed. Since it was a Korean restaurant,Koreanka prodaje lignje na obaliA Korean fisherwoman selling squids by thesea-sidewe took our shoes off and approacheda very low table. I inventeda way of sitting in a polite way bykneeling, putting two cushions onmy bent legs, and then sitting ontop. It took a bit of time to preparethe stew, but when it arrived itwas a dream. Fresh fish, vegetables,shells, crabs, all hot andspicy. There were a few side dishesas well: pickled garlic, seeweed, vegetables in separate smalldishes, some black beans, andkimchi. After lunch we walkedamong the fishing boats and rowsupon rows of squids hanging likefreshly hung laundry on ropes todry. Squids also hung all along the coast road as wedrove by. The dusk came and with it in the distancelanterns on fishing boats. We saw that we were notgoing to reach the hotel in the mountains. Our guidewas nervous. He talked a lot to his office and a decisionwas made. We were arriving but where? We knew thatwe had not reached the mountains, since we stoppedsoon after turning off the coast road.The new hotel was a family place, Korean style. Wearrived to our room by going through a very wellstocked super-market. We had a two bedroom apartment.One room had a double bed, the other mattresseson the floor. There was also a fully equipped kitchenand a bathroom which we did not know how to work.You had to take your shoes off. We were too tired, tocare about showers.In the morning we saw that we were wrong. Themountains were there and later as we drove along191