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“zelenih” nijansi izgledala sam kao bolesna. Najzadsam našla ogrlicu u “svojoj” nijansi i počela da se cenkam.Tu sam veštinu naučila u Indiji.Iznenadila nas je veličina komada žada i ametista uprodavnicama nakita. Bili su prave gromade. Dotlesam naivno mislila da ovo skupo poludrago kamenjepostoji samo u veličini šljunka. Kristali ametistablistali su kao dijamanti. Njihova ljubičasta boja bila jetamna, raskošna i jaka. Postalo mi je jasno da su blediametisti koje sam vidjala u draguljarnicama na zapadutek blede kopije.Veliki komadi žada se seku tako da sevidi ravna, dobro polirana ploha sa krugovima koji kaoduga sjaje zelenom bojom od mlečne do tamne bojemahovine u najdubljoj šumi.Otišle smo rano na spavanje. Sledećeg dana smoposetile pijacu na kojoj se prodavala sasvim sveža riba,poznata i nepoznata, egzotična, povrće, voće, mahunarkei nešto što nismo znale šta je. Recimo, zdela punatelašaca nekih buba bez krila. Ili druga sa kao olovkatankim, crnim bićima koja se uvijaju u zapenjenoj vodi.Mislim da su to bile mlade jegulje, jer u nekom vodičupiše da je jelo do jegulja regionalni specijalitet. Meso seprodavalo samo u radnjama. Brižljivoisečeni komadi poslagani kaoda su svilene maramice. Na meneje najveći utisak ostavio ginseng.Bilo ga je u velikim količinama.Zadivljujući prizor. U Evropi gaprodaju u sasvim malim količinamai veoma je skup. Koreja proizvodinajbolji ginseng u Aziji.Sledeće odredište bila je SekkuramGrotto, jedno od najlepšihBudinih svetilišta i nalazi sena UNESKO-voj Listi svetskebaštine. Da bismo stigle do mesta sa koga Buda gleda upravcu Istočnog mora (na geografskim kartama pišeJapansko more, ali ne i u Koreji) pele smo se putem kojije blago vijugao izmedju pinija i javora, a na krajupopele se uz nekoliko stepenika. Granitni Buda sedeo jesmireno u veličanstvenom skladu sa veštački zasvodjenompećinom sastavljenom od granitnih ploae još u VIveku. Okružen božanstvima u reljefu, savršeno izvajanim.Stajali smo sa strahopoštovanjem u predvorju ukome nas debela staklena ploča deli od Bude.Verovatno su ga mnogi poštovaoci dodirivali pošto jeovo mesto cilj hodočasnika. Prilikom silaska preplavilanas je potpuna smirenost. Monasi su prodavali suvenirei ja sam pokupovala gomilu minijaturnih drvenih simbolačije značenje nisam znala, ali su mi se veomadopali. Iznenadila sam se što u hramu nije bilo dece, alionda će možda dolaziti kad odrastu. Ovo je ionakomesto za hodočasnike.Opet su me ostavili u prodavnici žada (stidim se dakažem) a Mila je sa vodičima otišla u Bulguk-sa, ogromankompleks hramova iz VI veka, proširen 752. godinei takodje na UNESKO-voj Listi svetske baštine. Tadanisam shvatila značaj baš toghrama. Bio je izvanredno restaurisani predstavlja odličan primerarhitekture iz perioda Ujedinjenogkraljevstva Sila. Nažalost,regovala sam isto kao u Evropikada turistički obilazak podrazumevapreveliki broj crkava. Većsam videla mnoge japanske hramovei u neznanju pomislila samda je to samo još jedan hram više.A sada, dok čitam knjige o Koreji,osećam se neprijatno. Toliko samlace in ‘my’ shade and then set tobargain. I had learnt the art inIndia.But what surprised us in thejewellery shops also were thepieces of jade and amethyst thesize of small rocks. Until then Inaively thought that these semiprecious stones were found insizes of small pebbles. Theamethyst crystals sparkled likediamonds. The depth of their purplewas dark, rich and intense. Ithen realized that the paleamethysts that one saw at theordinary jewellery shops in theWest were but the poorest relatives.The huge pieces of jade werecut to show one flat, highly polished surface where inshape of a rainbow were circles in many different huesof green ranging from the milky pale to the dark mossof the thickest forest.We again went to bed early. Our first visit the nextday was to the teaming market full of very fresh, someknown and some unknown exotic fish, vegetables ,fruit,pulses and certain produce that we could not place. Forinstance a bowl full of wingless bodies of some beetle.Or another bowl with pencil thin, black creatures wrigglingaround in frothing water. I think that they werebaby eels, since one of the guide books said that the eelstew was the delicacy of the region. Meat was sold onlyin shops. Carefully cut pieces as neatly folded as if theywere silk scarves. For me the most impressive producewas ginseng. There was so much of it. It was an amazingsite. In Europe it is sold in tiny amounts and is very190“Emille” zvono (Devine zvono) uNacionalnom muzeju u Gyeongju-uThe 'Emille' bell (Devine Bell) at theGyeongju National Museumexpensive. Korea is the producerof the best ginseng in Asia.Our next stop was at SekkuramGrotto one of the world’sfinest shrines of Buddha, which ispart of the Unesco World CulturalHeritage List. To reach the placewhere Buddha is set looking easttowards the East Sea (on the mapsit’s called the Japanese Sea, butnot in Korea) we climbed a gentlepath meandering among pinesand maples and then up somesteps. The granite Buddha sat inrepose in magnificent proportionto the domed artificial grotto builtout of granite slabs in 6 th centuryAD. He was surrounded by deitiesin relief, faultlessly executed. We stood in awe in theante-chamber separated from Buddha by a thick sheetof glass. Since it is a place of pilgrimage he was probablytouched by too many worshippers. Coming downfrom the shrine we experienced a complete sense ofpeace. Monks were selling souvenirs and I bought awhole lot of miniature wooden symbols which representI am not sure what but I loved them. I was surprisedthat there were no children at the temple butthey will probably come when they grow up. After allthis was a place for pilgrims.They left me at the jade shop again (I am ashamedto say) whereas Mila and the guides went to Bulguk-sa,the sprawling 6 th century AD temple complex, enlargedin A.D. 752, which is also on the Unesco World CulturalHeritage List. At that time I had not realized theimportance of that particular temple. It has been