department for preventive conservation national ... - WebSajtovi

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Uz to su donete i druge đakonije. Dok smo čekale daručak stigne, Mila i ja smo kupovale suvenire. Kupilasam par slamnih sandala, tradicionalnu korejskuobuću, koju danas verovatno niko više ne nosi. Ali, ukorejskom romanu koji sam nedavno pročitala glavnijunak je u takvoj obući prevalio preko 40 km kroz planine.Ostavile smo praćnjave puteve Hahoe sela i otišleu Muzej maski. Utisak je bio neverovatan. Pored tradicionalnihmaski ovog kraja, videle smo i ogromnuzbirku maski iz svih delova sveta. Ko bi očekivaotoliko bogatu zbirku u tako malom selu. No, Hahoe jepoznat po svojim predstavama sa maskama i maske izHahoa su proglašene 1964. za nacionalno blago.Razlikuju se od drugih pozorišnih maski. Umetnikmože slobodno da pokreće donji deo vilice na njima.Polako smo obilazile muzej. Želele smo da sve upijemoi priznajem da smo jedva izašle iz muzejske prodavnice.Tu smo videle i najlepše od sve dece koju smo videle uKoreji. Rekle smo to majci, a ona se ozarila osmehom.Naš pomalo mrzovoljni vodič postao je veoma nervozan.Jedva je čekao da nas ostavi u hotelu i oslobodise bar za to veče.U hotelu su nas toplo dočekali. Koreja je gostoljubiva,u njoj ste dobrodošli. Soba je bila izvanredna. Hotelveliki. Hrana dobra. Bile smo zadovoljne.Stigle smo u Gyeongju, nekadašnju prestonicuUjedinjenog kraljevstva Sila (676-935), koje je uspeloda ujedini celo poluostrvo prvi put u istoriji Koreje. Tajperiod je poznat kao zlatno doba korejske kulture.Dan i po smo provele u Gyeongjuu. Cela okolina jemuzej na otvorenom. Prepun kraljevskih grobnihhumki, koje su otkrivene tek pre nekih trideset godina.Tek nekoliko je istraženo, ostale su još uvekneotvorene i kriju ogromno blago koje je pohranjeno unjima. Njihova jednostavnost je dirljiva. Brdašca kaoglave šećera, neka malo viša od drugih, ali nijednoprevisoko. Prekrivene prelepom travom i u poredjenjusa egipatskim pandanima, piramidama, humkeizgledaju plemenito, a zbog materijala (zemlja, a nekamen) i nacina gradnje – mnogo humanije. Nisu bilepotrebne hiljade robova da bi ih sagradili. U jednoj odhumki videle smo izvanredne vrednosti: zlatnu kraljevskuSila krunu, potpuno drugačiju od bilo kojeevropske krune ikad napravljene. Osnovna strukturaje veoma delikatna,i sa nje visi mnogo malih zlatnihpločica i žad u obliku suze, a ipak je izgledala laka.Videle smo i čuvenu sliku krilatog konja. Predivnaslika.Na svu sreću, Japanci koji su okupirali Koreju od1910. do 1945. nisu ih otkrili i odneli blago iz kraljevskihgrobnica kao što su odneli sve što su mogli.Japanci su bili surovi zavojevači i odneli su u Japan svaKraljevske humke (korejske piramide) u Gyeongju-uThe Royal mounds (Korean pyramids) in Gyeongjudying to get us to the hotel and be rid of us for theevening.We were greeted warmly at the hotel. Korea is awelcoming, hospitable country. Our room was excellent.The hotel had very large grounds. The food wasgood. We were happy.We had arrived at Gyeongju, which used to be thecapital of the Unified Silla (AD676-935), a kingdomwhich managed to unite the whole peninsula for thefirst time in the history of Korea. That period is knownas the golden age for Korean culture.We spent a day and a half at Gyeongju. The wholearea was a living museum. It was full of Royal burialmounds, very recently discovered, only some thirtyyears ago. Very few have been excavated the rest arestill standing there unopened with priceless treasureshidden within. They were moving in their simplicity.Small hills, like sugar loaves, some taller than the others,but none too tall. They were covered by beautifullykept grass and compared to their Egyptian counterparts,the pyramids, they appeared pure, both in material(the earth unlike the stone) and execution - somuch more humane. They did not need thousands ofslaves to complete them. We saw some wonderful treasuresinside one of the mounds: a Unified Silla royalgold crown, totally unlike any European crowns of anyage. The basic structure was very delicate, with lots ofsmall gold discs and tear shaped jades hanging from it,and yet it looked so light. We saw the famous paintingof the flying horse. It was beautiful.It was lucky that the Japanese who occupied Koreafrom 1910 to 1945 had not discovered them and takenthe Royal tombs’ treasures as they had everythingelse.The Japanese were merciless invaders and tookback to Japan as many artefacts as could be found orcarried away. Many Buddha sculptures were luckily toolarge to take.There were school kids everywhere. In their yellowuniforms, shouting ‘Hello’, and ‘What’s your name’? andgiggling, because we were obviously foreigners.. Theywere vivacious yet they walked in neat files, andseemed to be obediently listening to whatever teachersasked them to do. Many of them carried orange felt toymonkeys, around their necks, as if they were babies.Mila and I in the end could not resist and bought a fewto give as presents.188

umetnička blaga koja su našli ili mogli da prenesu. Nasreću mnogi Budini kipovi bili su preveliki.Posvuda smo viđali školsku decu. U žutim uniformama,dovikuju “halo”i “Kako se zoveš?”dok se kikoću,jer vide da smo stranci. Iako su bili veoma živahni, ipaksu išli u pravilnim redovima i slušali svoje učitelje.Mnogu su oko vrata nosili narandžaste plišane majmunčiće,kao da su bebe. Na kraju smo i Mila i ja kupilenekoliko da ih poklonimo.Kasnije smo u Nacionalnom muzeju u Gyeongjuuopet srele mnogo dece. Konfučijanstvo, kao društvenopolitičkafilozofija, duboko je ukorenjena u Koreji.Jedan od postulata je da je čovek u suštini dobar, samoje potrebno da se kultiviše, tj. obrazuje, da bi seusavršio i razvio. Zato je obrazovanje toliko bitno uKoreji. I zato je bilo toliko dece na svakoj izložbi, usvakom muzeju i kraj svakog spomenika.U muzeju smo srele Miline kolege, koje sam i japovršno poznavala.Veoma smo se obradovale. Bile smodaleko od kuće i ovo je predstavljalo vezu sa njom. Onisu dobro poznavali Koreju. Porazgovarali smo, razmeniliinformacije i rastali se.Mila je bila oduševljena unutrasnjim uredjenjemmuzeja. Neprestano je snimala. U ogromnoj prostorijisa staklenim podom, bile su predstavljene različite fazearheoloških iskopavanja. Naravno, gledali smo lutke,ali bile su u prirodnoj veličini i izgledale kao da su žive.Dopalo nam se što je za posetioce bilo postavljeno petkompjutera, koje su mogli da koriste. Neki od izloženihpredmeta bili su fantastični. Meni su se dopale prelepeokrugle Sila krovne pločice iz VI veka. Bile su jedinstvenogoblika i svaka je imala i šaru. Većina je ipakbila u obliku lotosa.Počasno mesto u vrtu zauzimalo je čuveno “Emille”zvono,“božansko zvono”, jedno od najstarijih (771.) alii najvećih na svetu. Teško je 20 tona, a prečnik mu je 2,3metra. Kažu da se zvuk zvona može čuti na daljini od64 km kad je dan lep. Ljudi veruju da zvono zvoni dapodseti na bebin plač za majkom, koja se na drevnomjeziku Sile zove “Emille”. Kupila sam traku za zvukomzvona i potpuno sam bila razočarana. Nema melodije,samo buum, buum u pravilnim intervalima.Vodič nas je odveo u otmeni restoran, namenjen turistimai otišao. Mila misli da je probala cvrčke iliskakavce i bila je veoma ponosna. Bez obzira na cenu,ručak je bio daleko od onih divnih obeda koje smoimale Choi i ja ili Mila i ja u Hahoe selu.I tog dana smo bile u prodavnicama gde se prodajužad i ametist, dve vrste poludragog kamenja po kojimaje Koreja poznata. Nisam znala da žad može imatitoliko različitih nijansi zelene i smeđe boje. Od nekihMila pred starom tradicionalnom kućom u Gyeongju-uMila in front of an old traditional house in GyeongjuLater on at the Gyeongju National Museum weagain met lots of children. Confucianism as a sociopoliticalphilosophy has very deep roots in Korea. Oneof its beliefs is that human nature is good in essenceand that it only needs cultivation, meaning education,to refine and develop itself. Education in Korea istherefore very important. That was why every exhibition,every museum and monument was literally overrunby kids.At the museum we also met Mila’s colleagues whomI knew slightly too. It gave us a lot of pleasure. We werevery far away from home, and we had found a link.They knew Korea well. We exchanged pleasantries andsome information and partied.Mila was very impressed with the layout of themuseum. She took masses of photographs. In a largeroom, where most of the floor was glass, we saw archaeologicalexcavation in various stages. Naturally wewere looking at dolls, but they were life size and veryreal. We also liked the site of five computers sitting in arow for the use of the visitors.There were some magnificentexhibits. I liked the beautiful round Unified Sillaroof tiles from the sixth century. Their shape wasunique and they also each had a pattern. Most of themwere, however, created in lotus design.The place of honour in the garden was given to thefamous ‘Emille’ bell, the Dvine Bell, one of the world’soldest (771 AD) and also one of the largest. It weighs 20tons and measures 2.3 meters in diameter. It is said thatthe bell’s sonorous tones can be heard 64 km away on aclear day. There’s also a belief that its tolling is reminiscentof a baby’s cry for its mother, which in the languageof ancient Silla is Emille. I bought a tape of thebell’s toll and found it most disappointing. There’s nomelody, just boom, boom, at regular intervals.Our guide then took us to a grand restaurant, ausual tourist place and left us. Mila thought that sheate some crickets or grasshoppers and was very proudof the fact. The meal however expensive had little similarityto the wonderful meals I had with Choi or theone Mila and I had at the Hahoe village.That day we also went to the shops where they soldjade and amethyst the two semi-precious stones ofKorea. I hadn’t known that jade could come in so manydifferent shades of green and brown too. Some ‘greens’made my skin look positively ill. I finally found a neck-189

umetnička blaga koja su našli ili mogli da prenesu. Nasreću mnogi Budini kipovi bili su preveliki.Posvuda smo viđali školsku decu. U žutim uni<strong>for</strong>mama,dovikuju “halo”i “Kako se zoveš?”dok se kikoću,jer vide da smo stranci. Iako su bili veoma živahni, ipaksu išli u pravilnim redovima i slušali svoje učitelje.Mnogu su oko vrata nosili narandžaste plišane majmunčiće,kao da su bebe. Na kraju smo i Mila i ja kupilenekoliko da ih poklonimo.Kasnije smo u Nacionalnom muzeju u Gyeongjuuopet srele mnogo dece. Konfučijanstvo, kao društvenopolitičkafilozofija, duboko je ukorenjena u Koreji.Jedan od postulata je da je čovek u suštini dobar, samoje potrebno da se kultiviše, tj. obrazuje, da bi seusavršio i razvio. Zato je obrazovanje toliko bitno uKoreji. I zato je bilo toliko dece na svakoj izložbi, usvakom muzeju i kraj svakog spomenika.U muzeju smo srele Miline kolege, koje sam i japovršno poznavala.Veoma smo se obradovale. Bile smodaleko od kuće i ovo je predstavljalo vezu sa njom. Onisu dobro poznavali Koreju. Porazgovarali smo, razmeniliin<strong>for</strong>macije i rastali se.Mila je bila oduševljena unutrasnjim uredjenjemmuzeja. Neprestano je snimala. U ogromnoj prostorijisa staklenim podom, bile su predstavljene različite fazearheoloških iskopavanja. Naravno, gledali smo lutke,ali bile su u prirodnoj veličini i izgledale kao da su žive.Dopalo nam se što je za posetioce bilo postavljeno petkompjutera, koje su mogli da koriste. Neki od izloženihpredmeta bili su fantastični. Meni su se dopale prelepeokrugle Sila krovne pločice iz VI veka. Bile su jedinstvenogoblika i svaka je imala i šaru. Većina je ipakbila u obliku lotosa.Počasno mesto u vrtu zauzimalo je čuveno “Emille”zvono,“božansko zvono”, jedno od najstarijih (771.) alii najvećih na svetu. Teško je 20 tona, a prečnik mu je 2,3metra. Kažu da se zvuk zvona može čuti na daljini od64 km kad je dan lep. Ljudi veruju da zvono zvoni dapodseti na bebin plač za majkom, koja se na drevnomjeziku Sile zove “Emille”. Kupila sam traku za zvukomzvona i potpuno sam bila razočarana. Nema melodije,samo buum, buum u pravilnim intervalima.Vodič nas je odveo u otmeni restoran, namenjen turistimai otišao. Mila misli da je probala cvrčke iliskakavce i bila je veoma ponosna. Bez obzira na cenu,ručak je bio daleko od onih divnih obeda koje smoimale Choi i ja ili Mila i ja u Hahoe selu.I tog dana smo bile u prodavnicama gde se prodajužad i ametist, dve vrste poludragog kamenja po kojimaje Koreja poznata. Nisam znala da žad može imatitoliko različitih nijansi zelene i smeđe boje. Od nekihMila pred starom tradicionalnom kućom u Gyeongju-uMila in front of an old traditional house in GyeongjuLater on at the Gyeongju National Museum weagain met lots of children. Confucianism as a sociopoliticalphilosophy has very deep roots in Korea. Oneof its beliefs is that human nature is good in essenceand that it only needs cultivation, meaning education,to refine and develop itself. Education in Korea isthere<strong>for</strong>e very important. That was why every exhibition,every museum and monument was literally overrunby kids.At the museum we also met Mila’s colleagues whomI knew slightly too. It gave us a lot of pleasure. We werevery far away from home, and we had found a link.They knew Korea well. We exchanged pleasantries andsome in<strong>for</strong>mation and partied.Mila was very impressed with the layout of themuseum. She took masses of photographs. In a largeroom, where most of the floor was glass, we saw archaeologicalexcavation in various stages. Naturally wewere looking at dolls, but they were life size and veryreal. We also liked the site of five computers sitting in arow <strong>for</strong> the use of the visitors.There were some magnificentexhibits. I liked the beautiful round Unified Sillaroof tiles from the sixth century. Their shape wasunique and they also each had a pattern. Most of themwere, however, created in lotus design.The place of honour in the garden was given to thefamous ‘Emille’ bell, the Dvine Bell, one of the world’soldest (771 AD) and also one of the largest. It weighs 20tons and measures 2.3 meters in diameter. It is said thatthe bell’s sonorous tones can be heard 64 km away on aclear day. There’s also a belief that its tolling is reminiscentof a baby’s cry <strong>for</strong> its mother, which in the languageof ancient Silla is Emille. I bought a tape of thebell’s toll and found it most disappointing. There’s nomelody, just boom, boom, at regular intervals.Our guide then took us to a grand restaurant, ausual tourist place and left us. Mila thought that sheate some crickets or grasshoppers and was very proudof the fact. The meal however expensive had little similarityto the wonderful meals I had with Choi or theone Mila and I had at the Hahoe village.That day we also went to the shops where they soldjade and amethyst the two semi-precious stones ofKorea. I hadn’t known that jade could come in so manydifferent shades of green and brown too. Some ‘greens’made my skin look positively ill. I finally found a neck-189

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