department for preventive conservation national ... - WebSajtovi

Uz to su donete i druge đakonije. Dok smo čekale daručak stigne, Mila i ja smo kupovale suvenire. Kupilasam par slamnih sandala, tradicionalnu korejskuobuću, koju danas verovatno niko više ne nosi. Ali, ukorejskom romanu koji sam nedavno pročitala glavnijunak je u takvoj obući prevalio preko 40 km kroz planine.Ostavile smo praćnjave puteve Hahoe sela i otišleu Muzej maski. Utisak je bio neverovatan. Pored tradicionalnihmaski ovog kraja, videle smo i ogromnuzbirku maski iz svih delova sveta. Ko bi očekivaotoliko bogatu zbirku u tako malom selu. No, Hahoe jepoznat po svojim predstavama sa maskama i maske izHahoa su proglašene 1964. za nacionalno blago.Razlikuju se od drugih pozorišnih maski. Umetnikmože slobodno da pokreće donji deo vilice na njima.Polako smo obilazile muzej. Želele smo da sve upijemoi priznajem da smo jedva izašle iz muzejske prodavnice.Tu smo videle i najlepše od sve dece koju smo videle uKoreji. Rekle smo to majci, a ona se ozarila osmehom.Naš pomalo mrzovoljni vodič postao je veoma nervozan.Jedva je čekao da nas ostavi u hotelu i oslobodise bar za to veče.U hotelu su nas toplo dočekali. Koreja je gostoljubiva,u njoj ste dobrodošli. Soba je bila izvanredna. Hotelveliki. Hrana dobra. Bile smo zadovoljne.Stigle smo u Gyeongju, nekadašnju prestonicuUjedinjenog kraljevstva Sila (676-935), koje je uspeloda ujedini celo poluostrvo prvi put u istoriji Koreje. Tajperiod je poznat kao zlatno doba korejske kulture.Dan i po smo provele u Gyeongjuu. Cela okolina jemuzej na otvorenom. Prepun kraljevskih grobnihhumki, koje su otkrivene tek pre nekih trideset godina.Tek nekoliko je istraženo, ostale su još uvekneotvorene i kriju ogromno blago koje je pohranjeno unjima. Njihova jednostavnost je dirljiva. Brdašca kaoglave šećera, neka malo viša od drugih, ali nijednoprevisoko. Prekrivene prelepom travom i u poredjenjusa egipatskim pandanima, piramidama, humkeizgledaju plemenito, a zbog materijala (zemlja, a nekamen) i nacina gradnje – mnogo humanije. Nisu bilepotrebne hiljade robova da bi ih sagradili. U jednoj odhumki videle smo izvanredne vrednosti: zlatnu kraljevskuSila krunu, potpuno drugačiju od bilo kojeevropske krune ikad napravljene. Osnovna strukturaje veoma delikatna,i sa nje visi mnogo malih zlatnihpločica i žad u obliku suze, a ipak je izgledala laka.Videle smo i čuvenu sliku krilatog konja. Predivnaslika.Na svu sreću, Japanci koji su okupirali Koreju od1910. do 1945. nisu ih otkrili i odneli blago iz kraljevskihgrobnica kao što su odneli sve što su mogli.Japanci su bili surovi zavojevači i odneli su u Japan svaKraljevske humke (korejske piramide) u Gyeongju-uThe Royal mounds (Korean pyramids) in Gyeongjudying to get us to the hotel and be rid of us for theevening.We were greeted warmly at the hotel. Korea is awelcoming, hospitable country. Our room was excellent.The hotel had very large grounds. The food wasgood. We were happy.We had arrived at Gyeongju, which used to be thecapital of the Unified Silla (AD676-935), a kingdomwhich managed to unite the whole peninsula for thefirst time in the history of Korea. That period is knownas the golden age for Korean culture.We spent a day and a half at Gyeongju. The wholearea was a living museum. It was full of Royal burialmounds, very recently discovered, only some thirtyyears ago. Very few have been excavated the rest arestill standing there unopened with priceless treasureshidden within. They were moving in their simplicity.Small hills, like sugar loaves, some taller than the others,but none too tall. They were covered by beautifullykept grass and compared to their Egyptian counterparts,the pyramids, they appeared pure, both in material(the earth unlike the stone) and execution - somuch more humane. They did not need thousands ofslaves to complete them. We saw some wonderful treasuresinside one of the mounds: a Unified Silla royalgold crown, totally unlike any European crowns of anyage. The basic structure was very delicate, with lots ofsmall gold discs and tear shaped jades hanging from it,and yet it looked so light. We saw the famous paintingof the flying horse. It was beautiful.It was lucky that the Japanese who occupied Koreafrom 1910 to 1945 had not discovered them and takenthe Royal tombs’ treasures as they had everythingelse.The Japanese were merciless invaders and tookback to Japan as many artefacts as could be found orcarried away. Many Buddha sculptures were luckily toolarge to take.There were school kids everywhere. In their yellowuniforms, shouting ‘Hello’, and ‘What’s your name’? andgiggling, because we were obviously foreigners.. Theywere vivacious yet they walked in neat files, andseemed to be obediently listening to whatever teachersasked them to do. Many of them carried orange felt toymonkeys, around their necks, as if they were babies.Mila and I in the end could not resist and bought a fewto give as presents.188