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dobro engleski, ali se nismo složili kao ličnosti. Mladivozač, po profesiji grafički dizajner, govorio je odličnokineski i japanski i pomalo engleski, i izgleda da jebolje razumevao naše želje i uspevao da delikatno rešavamnoge neprijatne situacije.Dok smo prilazili selu Hahoe, predeo je postaobajkovit. Najnežnije zelena pirinčana polja prelazila suu zelenkasto žute, plave planine u daljini, drvećenajraznovrsnijih boja oivičavalo je put, ravne plave linijekanala, nežne stabljike tek niklog pirinča, rekaNaktong u daljini, potpuni mir - čuju se samo cvrčci –smirenost, potpuni osećaj povratka kroz vreme. Daljesmo morali pešice, automobilima je zabranjen ulazak uselo.Hahoe je nastao u XVI veku. Najstarija kuča jepodignuta pre 550 godina. Kada je britanska kraljicaElizabeta II posetila Koreju 1999. želela je da vidi seloHahoe i Seul. Bilo je jasno i zasto. Hahoe je prepunveličanstvenih starih plemićkih kuća, izgradjenih odtamnog drveta, sa belim vratima od pirinčane hartije isa keramičkim pločicama na krovovima. Videle smodrvo čije je ogromno stablo verovatno bilo staro kolikoi samo selo. Nizovi poduprtih konopaca su pravili krugoveoko stabla, a sa njih su visile hiljade papirića saporukama na korejskom. Običaj je da se najtajnije željepovere ovom divovskom stablu.I Mila i ja smo uradile što i svi pre nas. Napisalesmo svoje želje na komadiće hartije i okačile ih poredostalih. Krošnja je bilo toliko velika i gusta da ni kišani sneg nisu mogle da dopru do njih. Imale smo utisakda smo deo sebe ostavile kraj ovog drveta koje će jošdugo živeti.U jedinoj gostionici u selu ručale smo izvanrednupileću čorbu za raznim povrćem i posutim susamom.rounds of rope surrounded the tree, from which hungthousands of thin strips of paper with writing inKorean .One was supposed to confide the most secretwishes to the care of that giant tree.Mila and I did as all those people be<strong>for</strong>e us. Wewrote our heart desires on small pieces of paper andhung them with the rest. The crown of the tree was sowide and thick that rain and snowprobably never got through. We felt that we haddefinitely left a bit of ourselves under that tree whichwould last a long time.At the only village Inn we ate a delicious chickenstew with various greens and white sesame seeds sprinkledon top. There were a few other side dishes. Whilewaiting <strong>for</strong> the meal Mila and I bought a few souvenirs.I got myself a pair of straw sandals, the traditionalKorean shoes, probably by now the thing of the past.But in a Korean novel which I’ve read recently the herowalked 30 miles over the mountains, in such shoes. Weleft the dirt paths of Hahoe and went to its MaskMuseum. It was incredible. Apart from the traditionalmasks of the region, there was a really large collectionof masks from every corner of the earth. You did notexpect such a rich collection at such a small village. ButHahoe is famous <strong>for</strong> its mask dance dramas and theHahoe masks were designated as a <strong>national</strong> treasure in1964. They were unlike any other theatrical masks. Thechins are made to move at per<strong>for</strong>mers will. Mila and Iwalked through the museum slowly. We wanted to takeeverything in and it was I must admit difficult to dragus from the museum shop, also. There we saw the mostbeautiful child that we had seen in Korea. We paid ourcompliments to her mother who beamed back. Our notso cooperative guide was getting very restless. He was187

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