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Straža pred Gyeongbokgung palati u Seulu (i na sledećoj strani)Guards at the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul (also on the opposite)Izvanredan sistem grejanja podova pomoću kamenihcevi kroz koje je prolazio vreli vazduh. Zgrada jeizgledala kao da lebdi na kamenim stubovima oslonjenana brojne cevi ugradjene u beton. U vrtu je bila iniska klackalica. Kasnije sam pročitala da su dvorskedame zatvorene u ovim dvorištima, naskakivale dve podve na ove klackalice ne bi li preko krovova palatevidele “svet”izvan nje. Zgrade povezuju dugački hodnicisa zidovima od pirinčane hartije na drvenim ramovima.Pirinčani papir i pozlaćeno drvo na tavanicamastvarali su osećaj intimnosti i lepote. Hodnici su služilikao tajna veza izmedju muških i ženskih odaja.U vrtu su veliki kameni komadi, kao da su doneti izprirode, stajali na betonskim postoljima medjužbunovima. Ove skulpture su bile toliko drugačije odsvojih pandana u vrtovima evropskih palata, klesanih uskupom mermeru i livenih u pozlaćenoj bronzi. Meni sujednostavne korejske vrtne skuplture bile na neki načinlepše, i neverovatno moderne.Veoma apstraktan osećaj.Ova palata kao i mnoga druga umetnička mesta ipredmeti predstavljaju inspirativnu ravnotežu ukrasa iboje i krajnje jednostavnosti.Po završetku Konferencije, kad je Mila završilasvoje obaveze u Savetodavnom komitetu, pocele smo sapripremama za put u unutrašnjost. Posle razgovora saChoi i dogovora sa agencijom, naše putovanje je sledilooblik trougla. Na jug do sela Hahoe i grada Gyeongju,zatim istočnom obalom na sever sve do planina uNacionalnom parku Seoraksan, pa na zapad ponovo uSeul.Svanuo je predivan dan, auto je bio veoma udoban,pošle smo rano, vozač je bio veoma ljubazan mladić, alivodiča nije nigde bilo. Konačno je došao kad smo većbile ljute. Izgubile smo tri dragocena sata. Govorio jeKorean countryside. After discussions with Choi and anagency it was decided that our trip was to take theshape of a triangle. South to the village of Hahoe andthe town of Gyeongju, then along the east coast northas far as the mountains of Seoraksan National Park,then west back to Seoul.The day we left was gorgeous, the car wonderfullycomfortable, we were starting early, the driver was avery polite young man but the guide was missing. Wefinally met but by that time we were cross .We had lostthree precious hours. His English was good but we werenot compatible as people. The young driver though,who was by profession a graphic designer and couldspeak excellent Chinese and Japanese, and littleEnglish, seemed to understand our tastes and managedto gracefully save many an uncomfortable situation.As we approached the village of Hahoe, the landscapebecame magical. The gentlest green of the ricefields, which then became greeny yellow, the bluemountains in the distance ,the trees with many differentlycoloured foliage lining the road, the straight bluelines of the canals, the tender blades of growing rice,the Naktong river in the distance, the utter peace- onlycrickets could be heard-, the tranquillity, the completefeeling of having gone back in time. We were walkingby now, the cars were not allowed into the village.Hahoe dates from the 16 th century.The oldest houseis 550 years old. When Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II visitedKorea in 1999 she wanted to see the Hahoe villageand Seoul One could easily see why. Hahoe is full ofmagnificent old aristocratic homes made out of darkwood, white rice paper doors and ceramic tiled roofs.We saw a tree with an enormous trunk, probably asancient as the village. With the help of a rail many186