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vala po Evropi i mislim da je dobro shvatala kako jarazmišljam.Sledećeg dana posetile smo malu palatu Unhyeongungu kojoj je kralj Gojong živeo kao dete. On je biopretposlednji kralj Joseon dinastije (1392-1910), poslednjekorejske dinastije koja je dugo vladala. Ušle smou palatu iz jedne veoma prometne ulice. I odjednom jenastala tišina. Nismo htele da žurimo. I baš zato štonismo žurile, poseta nam je pružila duboko, duhovnoiskustvo. Kasnije, u Japanu, u jednom danu posetilasam osam hramova i palata. Bila sam na turi sa vodičem.I danas o tome imam samo nejasnu predstavu usećanju, ali malu palatu u Seulu vidim sasvim jasnokad god pomislim na nju. Možda sam videla manje odvećine ljudi, ali ono što sam videla, videla sam detaljnoi zaljubila sam se u Koreju. U “Zemlju jutarnjeg spokoja”kako je sa ljubavlju naziva njen narod.Palatu čine nekolike niske zgrade. “Nastanjene” sulutkama u kostimima onog vremena – iz sredine XIXveka. Bila sam zadivljena. Ugledala sam nekoliko kutijaza šminku ili nakit koje su bile iste kao ona koje samnašla pre nekih dvadeset godina u prašnjavom podrumujedne antikvarnice u Londonu. Nijedan stručnjakza Daleki Istok nije mogao da ih tačno identifikuje.Videla sam bele drvene plakare sa klizajućim vratima iravnim drvenim ruckama koje u potpunosti sličečuvenom evropskom Bauhaus periodu iz tridesetihgodina XX veka. Ništa novo pod kapom nebeskom!Deca odevena u Hanbok tradicionalne kostime prilikom posete Unhyeongung palatiLittle kids dressed in their Hanbok traditional costumes visiting Unhyeongung Palacecountryside I would ring her up whenever we foundourselves in trouble. Choi was well travelled throughEurope and I believe that she understood my way ofthinking well.The next day we went to a small palace Unhyeongungwhere King Gojong lived as a child. He was thenext to the last king of the Joseon Dynasty (AD1392-1910), the long ruling last dynasty of Korea. We steppedinto its <strong>for</strong>ecourt from a very busy street. Suddenly allwas tranquillity. We decided to take our time. Andbecause of the lack of hurry the visit became a profound,spiritual experience. Later on in Japan , where Iwent <strong>for</strong> a flying visit , I saw eight temples and palacesin one day. It was a guided tour. I must admit that in mymind it is still all mostly a blur, but the small palace inSeoul I can see clearly every time I think of it. I probablysaw less than a lot of other people in the given timebut what I saw I saw thoroughly and as a result consequentlyfell in love with Korea. ‘The Land of MorningCalm’ as it is affectionately called by its people.The palace consisted of several low buildings. Theywere ‘peopled‘by models in the costumes of the time –mid 19 th century. I found a lot to delight me. Forinstance I saw a few make up or jewellery boxes identicalto the one I had bought in London, some twentyyears ago, in a dusty cellar of an antique shop. No fareastern expert that I had asked was able to place itexactly. I saw built in white wooden cupboards withsliding doors and flat wooden handles totally reminiscentof the famous twentieth century European BauhausPeriod. Nothing new under the sun! There wasmagnificent under floor heating consisting of stoneflues-pipes through which hot air used to be blown.Thebuildings stood tall as if on stone stilts and their foundationsso it appeared were many pipes buried in concrete.There was a very low see-saw in the garden. Ilater read that the secluded ladies of the court would inpairs jump on them up and down as high as they couldin order to see over the palace roof tops to the ‘world’outside. There were long connecting corridors betweenthe buildings with rice paper walls on latticed woodenframes. Rice paper and golden wood on the ceiling createda feeling of intimacy and beauty. These were thesecret corridors between the male and female quarters.In the garden there were large pieces of stones, asfound in nature, placed on man made concretepedestals sitting among the bushes. These were thesculptures, so very different from their counterparts atthe European palaces’ gardens where they were madein expensive marbles and gilded bronzes. I found theKorean humble garden sculptures in a sense morebeautiful, also incredibly modern.Very abstract in feeling.This palace as so many other artistic places andobjects were an inspired balance of the ornate and thecolourful and utter simplicity.After the Conference was over and Mila finishedher work with the Advisory Committee, we left <strong>for</strong> the185

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