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Tradicionalne igre na ceremoniji otvaranja XX Generalne konferencijeIKOM-aTraditional dancing at the opening ceremony at the Icom 20thGeneral Conferenceželjom da očuvaju kulturnu baštinu, lepotu iz prošlosti.Po završetku svečanosti, našla sam se sa svojimvodičem sa kojom je trebalo da razgledam Seul.Obrazovana Koreanka, četrdesetih godina, inteligentna,saizvan rednim poznavanjem kineskog živahna iveoma zabavna. Zvala se Choi. Rekla sam joj da presvega želim da upoznam život prestonici i da garazumem. Gorela sam od radoznalosti. PosetaEtnografskom muzeju prethodnog dana nije mogla dazadovolji moju želju. Ako hoću da razumem ovu zemlju,moram da je osetim ovde i sada.Otišle smo u Insa-dong. Zaustavile smo se predradnjom sa pirinčanim kolačima. Bili su uredno poslaganina tezgi ispred nje, svaki red sa kolačima drugačijegoblika i drugačije boje. Izgledali su kao prava malaumetnička dela, i poželela sam da probam svaki. Ipak,otišle smo u pravi tradicionalni korejski restoran. A toznači da smo cipele ostavile na ulazu i da smo sele zaveoma niske stolove. Kolena su me mučila dok samsedela prekrštenih nogu. Najzad sam se oslonila na zidi pružila noge ispod stola. Kasnije sam u jednom odvodiča pročitala da se takav način sedenja smatranepristojnim. Ali, u drugom vodiču je pisalo da se odstranaca i ne očekuje da znaju kako se treba ponašati.Choi je naručila pirinač, mnogo raznovrsnogpovrća, pečenu ribu i kimči – najvažniji sastojak svakogkorejskog obeda. Kimči je ukiseljeni kupus i bela rotkvazimi, a leti se kiseli sve drugo povrće. Ljut je i imabelog luka. Zimski se čuva u velikim braon teglama,dok se leti jelo priprema svakodnevno. Kimči je tolikobitan deo korejske kuhinje da čak postoji i Kimči muzeju Seulu. Eto, prvi put sam probala ovaj korejskidelikates. Choi je jela sa uživanjem.Dopao mi se i toalet sa uredno poredjanim papučama.Naravno kad smo svi bili bez cipela.Zatim smo renule smo u istraživanje Insa-dongulice. Radnje sa antikvitetima, galerije, modna odeća,mnogo izuzetne i egzotične keramike i teško da bihmogla da kontrolišem svoj novčanik da nije bilo Choikoja me je doslovce odvlačila iz pojedinih radnji govorećikako je tu preskupo. Već smo se sprijateljile. Odtog momenta Choi je postala moj andjeo čuvar u Koreji.Kasnije, dok smo putovale po Koreji, pozvala bih jekadgod smo bile u nekoj nevolji. Choi je mnogo puto-With her huge warm heart Mila always talked of peopleworking on conservation as a family, and I could nowsee why. On this occasion it was one thousand and fivehundred people united in their desire to preserve thecultural heritage, the beauty, from the past.After the ceremony I met my guide for a private tourof Seoul.She was a Chinese scholar in her forties, intelligent,lively, and a lot of fun. Her name was Choi. I toldher that above all I wanted to see the life of the capitaland to have it interpreted. I was bursting with curiosity.The visit to the Folk Museum the day before haddone very little to satisfy it. If I was to understand anythingof the country I wanted first of all, to experiencethe here and now.We went to the Insa-dong district. We stopped infront of a shop a with rice cakes. They were displayedoutside in neat rows, each row a different shape and adifferent colour. They looked festive and artistic and Iwanted to eat them all. But instead we went to a trulytraditional Korean restaurant. That meant leaving theshoes at the entrance and sitting at very low tables. Myknees hurt to sit cross legged. I found the solution byleaning against the wall and spreading my legs straightunder the table. Later in one of the guide books I readthat sitting like that was considered rude. Yet anotherguide book said that foreigners were not expected toknow how to behave in an appropriate manner.Choi ordered stone rice, many different vegetables abarbequed fish, and the most important component ofevery Korean meal Kimchi. Kimchi is pickled cabbageand white radish in winter and pickled almost any vegetablein summer. It is hot, and garlicky. The winter oneis stored in large brown jars whereas the summer one ismade daily. Kimchi is so important in Korean cookingthat there is even a Kimchi Museum in Seoul. Anyway,this was my first taste of that Korean delicacy. Ithought it interesting, Choi ate it with relish.I also loved the toilet. There was a neat row of slippersfor our use. After all we were without shoes.We than went exploring the Insa-dong street itself.Antique shops, art galleries, arty clothes, masses of potteryall exquisite and exotic and I would have had ahuge trouble controlling my purse strings, if it had notbeen for Choi who literally dragged me out of someshops each time saying that it was outrageously expensive.We had already struck up a friendship. From thenon throughout my stay in Korea she became myguardian angel .Later on our trip through KoreanTradicionalni muzičari na XX Generalnoj konferenciji IKOM-aTraditional musicians at the Icom 20th General Conference184