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Sonja FranklinKoreja je postala zemlja mojih snovaKada me je Mila Popovic-Zivancevic pozvala da zajednoodemo na XX Generalnu konferencijuIKOM-a u Seul, o samoj zemlji znala sam sasvim malo.Iz nekoliko novinskih članaka o Koreji činilo se da jejug zemlje potpuno amerikanizovan i uništen, a severturoban i tužan.Naš prvi utisak o Seulu bio je upravo takav: previšeoblakodera, svuda hrom, čelik, staklo i mermer i mnoštvonajnovijih marki automobila koji jure ulicama.Smestile smo se u hotel u kome su soba i kupatilo bilitoliko mali da je trebalo biti veoma maštovit da bi sekretao, a zatim smo krenule u potragu za azijskimSeulom. Portir nam je pozvao taksi i objasnio mu gdeda nas odveze. Kasnije smo shvatile da taksiste neznaju ni reč engleskog, a da im ni čitanje mape gradanije jača strana, da ljudi na ulici takodje ne znajuengleski, ali da to važi i za prodavce u radnjama, a niu restoranima nisu shvatali šta tražimo. Sve u svemu,nije lako snaći se u Južnoj Koreji. Na momente sam bilapotpuno isrpljena pokušavajući da ljudima objasnimšta hoću.Te prve večeri završile smo u centru, u ulici bez saobraćaja.Sredinom ulice bile su postavljene tezge nakojima se prodavala izvanredno mirisna hrana, ali imnogo plastičnih drangulija. Pronašle smo restoran ukome smo bez problema naručile hranu pošto je svebilo izloženo u izlogu. Hrana je bila izvrsna, a vrhunacvečeri smo doživele kada smo nekako uspele da objasnimoda želimo da isečemo meso, a kelnerica se pojavilasa velikim makazama.Sledećeg dana otišla sam sa Milom u COEX, ogrom-Sonja FranklinKorea has become a land of my dreamsWhen Mila Popovic Zivancevic asked me to come asher companion to ICOM 20 th General Conferencein Seoul I knew very little about the country. From thefew newspaper articles that I read about Koreas theSouth seemed to be totally Americanized and spoiledand the North drab and sad.Our very first impressions of Seoul were exactlythat: too many high rise buildings, all chrome, stainlesssteel, glass and marble, and a lot of expensive brandnew cars whizzing down the streets.We settled in a hotel where the room and the bathroomwere so small that staying there required a greatdeal of creative thinking and then went in search of theAsian Seoul. The porter called us a taxi and explainedto the taxi driver where to take us. We later discoveredthat taxi drivers did not speak English, that they didnot know how to read the maps, that people in thestreet hardly ever spoke English, that shop keepers didnot speak it and that in restaurants they could notunderstand it. All in all it was not easy to find your wayin South Korea. I sometimes became totally exasperatedtrying to make myself understood.That first evening we ended downtown in a streetwith no traffic. The middle of the street was occupiedby stalls where delicious smelling food was being sold,and a lot of cheap plastic trinkets. We found a restaurantwhere it was easy to order because everything wason display in the shop window. The food was truly deliciousbut the highlight of the meal was when we somehowmanaged to convey that we wanted to cut the meatand the waitress appeared with huge scissors.ni konferencijski centar u kome smo se s mukom snalazile.Dobile smo informativne pakete, torbe i bedževesa imenima. Informativni paket mi je bio od ogromnepomoći kada sam pošla da sama tragam za duhomDalekog Istoka, jer je Mila bila sasvim zaokupljenaKonferencijom. Trebalo je da ostanemo još nekolikodana posle Konferencije kako bismo zajedno proputovalezemljom. A došle smo i nekoliko dana pre većinedelegata pošto je Mila član Savetodavnog komitetaIKOM-a.Nekoliko dana kasnije prisustvovala sam otvaranjuKonferencije i to je bio veličanstven doživljaj. Našidomaćini su bili šarmantni, prijatni i ljubazni i veomasu se trudili da skup bude uspešan.Brojni izvanredni govori, fantastične korejske igre ina sceni i u sali na otvorenom, omamljujuća korejskamuzika i izuzetno dostojanstven ulazak žene u predivnomnacionalnom kostimu od teške svile, izvanrednonašminkane, sjajne tamne kose očešljane u istočnjačkupundju. Svi smo pomislili da je to tajlandska princezakoja je bila najavljena u programu.Veoma smo se iznenadilikada se prava princeza pojavila u jednostavnomkostimu, ravnim cipelama i gotovo bez ikakve šminke.Dostojanstvena dama bila je prva dama Koreje, suprugapredsednika Koreje. Ali pompa oko nje bila jeopravdana.Ogromno prevorje bilo je prepuno. Gotovo hiljadupetstotinaljudi iz celog sveta. Mila, velikog itoplog srca, uvek govori o ljudima koji se bave konzervacijomkao o porodici i sad mi je postalo jasno i zašto.Ovde je bilo hiljadupetstotina ljudi sa zajedničkomThe next day I accompanied Mila to the COEX, thehuge conference centre where finding our way was verydifficult. We got our information packs, bags and nametags. Those information packs were immensely helpfulwhen I later on went in search of the spirit of Far Easton my own, since Mila became totally involved in theConference. The idea was that we stay a few days extraafter the end of the conference and then travel aroundthe country together. We also came a few days earlierthan most of the other candidates since Mila was themember of the Advisory Committee.A few days after we arrived I was present at theopening ceremony of the conference, and it was magnificent.Our hosts were charming, gentle, and courteousand one felt that they did their utmost to make it trulysuccessful.There were many excellent speeches, magicalKorean dancing both on the stage and in the imposinghall outside, haunting Korean music, and the incrediblycourtly entrance of a woman dressed in an exquisitenational costume in heavy silk, beautifully made-up,with her gleaming dark hair arranged in an Orientalchignon. We all thought that the she was the Thailandprincess as her attendance was announced in the programme.What a surprise when the real princessappeared in an ordinary two piece suit, flat shoes andhardly any make-up. The courtly lady was the FirstLady of Korea, the Korean president’s wife. But thepomp that she created seemed very appropriate.The huge hall outside was very crowded. Almost onethousand five hundred people from all over the world.183