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komadićima vate namočenim u aceton, uz redovno menjanje,i/ili tupim skalpelom, pazeći da se staklo neogrebe. Smola će, prodirući, ukloniti vazduh iz pukotinei time je učiniti manje vidljivim. Pukotine tada izgledajukao vlas kose sa obe strane, osim ako postoje dodatnaoštećenja uz zalepljenu ivicu.Smola može, uz pomoć kapilarne sile, da se ulije i unepotpune pukotine. Blago zagrevanje stakla tu možeda pomogne, osim ako je došlo do pomeranja ivica, jer utom slučaju pukotina može drastično da se produži!Mesta na kojima su se komadići stakla površinski odlomili(tzv. krateri) mogu naknadno da se ispune kapljicamasmole, pri čemu staklo treba da bude okrenuto krateromka gore, kako bi ga smola adekvatno popunila.Sitne rupe mogu da se popunjavaju blago stegnutomsmolom, uz pomoć lepljive trake kao pozadine.U slučaju debljeg stakla, ponekad je poželjno prvonaneti smolu na ivicu, a zatim čvrsto spojiti dva fragmenta,dodatno ih stegnuvši prethodno pripremljenimkomadima lepljive trake. Na ovaj način je moguće izbećipojavu mehurića vazduha u spoju. Tehnika zahtevaizvesno iskustvo, jer istiskivanje viška smole čini površinulepljivom, što otežava nanošenje trake. Ako se fragmentiodvoje nakon nanošenja smole, stvoriće se vazdušnimehurići i smola će morati ponovo da se nanosi.LusteriManji delovi staklenog lustera se mogu zalepiti, akonisu noseći, jer treba imati na umu da se lusteri kačenad glavama ljudi. U slučaju da se takvi delovi više nećekoristiti, oni se mogu zalepiti i ostaviti vlasniku. Ponekadje na pijacama i u antikvarnicama moguće naći idelove za zamenu, nove komade, staklene prizme, kao imesingane osovine za lustere.Kristalne figureDelove figura poput ušiju, glava, udova i sl. najboljeje lepiti cijanoakrilatom (superlepak), jer je te deloveteško podupreti. Teži delovi mogu da se podupru i spojeprozirnom epoksi smolom u zgusnutom stanju.Brušenje stakla – okrnjeno staklo, poliranjebrušenih boca i zamena čepovaOvakvi postupci se sprovode jedino na modernimpredmetima iz domaćinstva, nikako na antikvitetima iarheološkom staklu.Vremenom unutrašnjost posuda kojesluže za držanje tečnosti izgubi prozirnost. Teško je,bez testiranja, reći da li je zamagljenost posledica taloženjanerastvorljivih soli i/ili oštećenja površine stakla.Ostaci hrane i pića mogu da se uklone ostavljanjemrastvora bioloških enzima (npr. Biotex ® ) u posudi prekonoći. Unutrašnjost ovakvih posuda može da se ispoliraili abrazivnim točkićima na dužim drškama ili veomaopasnom fluorovodoničnom kiselinom. Uvek je prisutnaopasnost od oštećenja stakla. Restauracija stakla čestozahteva dosta vremena i iskustva. Nedostajući delovimogu da se nadomeste metodama koje se koriste u restauracijikeramike, na primer uz pomoć voštanih kalupai prozirne ili obojene smole. Kalupi treba da budunešto veće površine od šupljine koja se popunjava (kakosmola ne bi iscurela), premazani PVA sredstvom za razdvajanje,na stranama koje će doći u kontakt sa smolomi, što je najvažnije, pričvršćeni za staklo uz pomoć topilice.Mnogo toga može da krene naopako, pa je preporučljivoprvo uvežbati tehniku na komadu modernogstakla, dok se ne stekne sigurnost i tek onda pristupitikonzervaciji i restauraciji, a preporučljivo je i pročitatiS. Davison, Conservation and Restoration of Glass (Butterworth-Heinemann).In the case of thick glass, it may be preferable to paintresin along one edge, following which two pieces of glassare squeezed tightly together and secured with previouslyprepared strips of Magic Tape. This procedure helps to eliminateair bubbles. The technique requires some practicebecause excess resin squeezed out onto the glass surfacemakes the surface slippery and difficult to tape. If the fragmentsseparate after resin has been applied, air bubbleswill be introduced and the resin will need to be reapplied.ChandeliersSmall glass chandelier parts can be repaired if theyare not load bearing, bearing in mind that they are suspendedabove peoples’ heads. If it is decided not to reusebroken pieces, they can be repaired and kept by theowner as archive material. Replacement parts can sometimesbe bought at markets or from antique shops, newglass parts, including lustres and brass pins can also sometimesbe bought.Crystal figuresParts such as ears, heads, limbs etc. are best attachedwith cyanocrylate (e.g. Superglue), as the pieces may bedifficult to support. Heavier pieces can be supportedand attached with optically clear epoxy resin in a thickenedstate.Glass grinding - chipped glass, polishing decanterinteriors & stopper replacement.This should only be carried out on modern householditems, not antique/historic glass.Over time, the interior of vessels used to contain liquid,become cloudy. It is not easy to tell, without testing,whether a white cloudiness is the result of insoluble saltdeposition and/or a deterioration of the glass surface.Food & drink residues can be removed by leaving a solutionof biological enzyme (e.g. Biotex®) in the vesselovernight.The interior of decanters may be ‘polished’ eitherby the use of abrasive wheels on long spindles or byremoving the glass surface with highly dangerous hydrofluoricacid.There is always a risk of damage to the glass.Restoration of glass is often time consuming and requiresa great deal of practice. Missing areas can often befilled by methods used to restore ceramics i.e. by usingwax moulds to contain clear or coloured resin. Howeverthe moulds must be only slightly larger than the gap tobe filled (to prevent resin from seeping onto the surface),must be coated with PVA separating agent on the sideswhich will be in contact with the resin cast, and mostimportant of all, be secured to the glass by melting theedges of the wax onto the glass with a small electricallyheated spatula. Much can go wrong, so that anyone facedwith a piece of glass to restore is advised to practice thetechnique on a modern piece until they feel confident,and to read, Davison, S. (2003). Conservation and Restorationof Glass (Butterworth-Heinemann).145

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