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Trsteno
Balm for the soul If you’re on the edge of your nerves and
even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time
to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree
hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked
who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for
gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centrepiece is
a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov
Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a
sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode
and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar.
More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola
Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.
Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by
local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing
gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people
have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A
sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t
miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.
East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by
the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the
sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view
encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical
splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of
the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum
– a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.
The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid
out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths,
a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer
garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern
sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus
a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered
quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which
broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and
it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall
trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy
the harmony of man and nature.
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with
a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.
Župa dubrovačka
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay
dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the
Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason
why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means
“Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so
beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named
after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by
streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right
on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be
named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness
of the swimmer in question.
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons
being that this part of the coast was occupied by the
Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is
all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal
situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry
lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront
empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently
going on and things will get better.
We highly recommend these resorts for the following
reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)
There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private
apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With
Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great
place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter
environment and clean beaches.
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find
necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks,
the post office and a large supermarket.
Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever
seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a
watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right
on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with
little villas nestled in leafy shade.
Tourist information
Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board
Šetalište dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, Srebreno,
Mlini, tel. (+385- 20) 48 62 54,
tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr., www.
dubrovnik-riviera.hrQ Open 08:00 -15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
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