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Pelješac Peninsula<br />
Oysters and wine The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously<br />
connected with <strong>the</strong> mainland that it has <strong>the</strong> unique<br />
character <strong>of</strong> an island. The first delight that awaits you is<br />
<strong>the</strong> gastronomic haven <strong>of</strong> Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon<br />
dividing Pelješac from <strong>the</strong> mainland is rich in premium quality<br />
oysters, and <strong>the</strong> village restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best<br />
cuisine in <strong>the</strong> country. Nearby, <strong>the</strong> town <strong>of</strong> Ston is encircled<br />
by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including<br />
forty towers, which with <strong>the</strong> backdrop <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountainous<br />
countryside look scarily like <strong>the</strong> Great Wall <strong>of</strong> China. These<br />
walls were built by <strong>the</strong> Republic <strong>of</strong> Dubrovnik due to valuable<br />
salt pans and <strong>the</strong> town’s strategic position, and Ston is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
called “little Dubrovnik” as <strong>the</strong> streets have <strong>the</strong> same layout<br />
and <strong>the</strong> same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt<br />
for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday<br />
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and<br />
victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.<br />
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular<br />
conical hills. This is <strong>the</strong> home <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> indigenous Plavac Mali<br />
grape, and on certain south facing slopes near <strong>the</strong> village <strong>of</strong><br />
Dingač <strong>the</strong> vines yield grapes <strong>of</strong> awesome quality. Dingač is<br />
an atom bomb <strong>of</strong> a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was <strong>the</strong><br />
first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).<br />
It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy <strong>the</strong> Pelješac<br />
experience to <strong>the</strong> full, we recommend you try it. Postup is<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r Pelješac wine <strong>of</strong>ten called “Dingač’s baby bro<strong>the</strong>r”,<br />
while Plavac is s<strong>of</strong>ter, more affordable and very quaffable. On<br />
The Walls <strong>of</strong> Ston<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong> neretvA CountY<br />
In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade<br />
sights are more magnificent than <strong>the</strong> grizzled<br />
fourteenth-century walls <strong>of</strong> Ston. For many years only<br />
a tiny stretch <strong>of</strong> this 5.5km-long line <strong>of</strong> fortifications<br />
was accessible to <strong>the</strong> public, but after a long period <strong>of</strong><br />
renovation a significant circuit <strong>of</strong> wall was ceremonially<br />
opened to <strong>the</strong> public in October 2009. Visitors can now<br />
scramble around <strong>the</strong> ring <strong>of</strong> bastions that surrounds<br />
<strong>the</strong> town <strong>of</strong> Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
surrounding countryside.<br />
The walls date back to 1334, when <strong>the</strong> Republic <strong>of</strong><br />
Dubrovnik gained Ston and <strong>the</strong> neighbouring Peljesac<br />
peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against<br />
potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well<br />
worth <strong>the</strong> investment: <strong>the</strong> salt pans <strong>of</strong> Ston went on to<br />
become a key source <strong>of</strong> Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped<br />
to keep <strong>the</strong> republic’s fleet on <strong>the</strong> seas.<br />
Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by<br />
modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes,<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine<br />
shingle beaches, and on <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn side a bracing wind<br />
makes this a favourite spot for windsurfers, especially at<br />
Viganj. Orebić is <strong>the</strong> largest resort, its architecture reflecting<br />
its links with <strong>the</strong> Republic <strong>of</strong> Dubrovnik, and has fantastic<br />
stretches <strong>of</strong> shingle to <strong>the</strong> east <strong>of</strong> town. A ferry connects<br />
Orebić with Korčula town.<br />
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take<br />
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will<br />
hardly be long enough.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Orebić Tourist Board Zrinsko<br />
Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20)<br />
71 37 18, tz-orebic@tz-orebic.hr, www.<br />
tz-orebic.com. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
ston.hr. QDecember - March 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00,<br />
16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Spanning <strong>the</strong> isthmus that connects <strong>the</strong> Pelješac peninsula<br />
to <strong>the</strong> mainland, and consisting <strong>of</strong> 40 towers<br />
and 5 fortresses, <strong>the</strong> walls comprise one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> longest<br />
stretches <strong>of</strong> surviving fortifications in <strong>the</strong> whole <strong>of</strong> Europe.<br />
Local sources reckon it to be <strong>the</strong> second longest stretch<br />
in <strong>the</strong> world after <strong>the</strong> Great Wall <strong>of</strong> China, although this<br />
eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing<br />
ruse by PR-conscious tourist <strong>of</strong>ficials. In <strong>the</strong><br />
event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds<br />
<strong>of</strong> web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts<br />
36km <strong>of</strong> surviving wall – although we didn’t bo<strong>the</strong>r investigating<br />
any fur<strong>the</strong>r. As <strong>the</strong>re is no door preventing access<br />
to <strong>the</strong> walls, you can visit <strong>the</strong>m at any time. Occasionally<br />
you might come across someone selling tickets, which<br />
cost 20 - 30kn, while kids under 18 go free.<br />
Winter 2011/2012<br />
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