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Lastovo<br />
Lastovo is not fur<strong>the</strong>st away from coast - that honour goes<br />
to Vis - but it takes <strong>the</strong> longest to get here, over four hours.<br />
Maybe that’s why <strong>the</strong> island culture is so different and well<br />
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,<br />
so access to <strong>the</strong> island was restricted. With not a great<br />
deal to do, <strong>the</strong> island became depopulated. But Nature has<br />
been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an<br />
untouched ecological paradise.<br />
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else,<br />
a sense <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> breath <strong>of</strong> ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a<br />
basin facing away from <strong>the</strong> sea to escape <strong>the</strong> attentions <strong>of</strong><br />
pirates. Walking in <strong>the</strong> town’s streets, those with a sense for<br />
<strong>the</strong> antique and <strong>the</strong> eccentric will wonder at a culture so very<br />
detached from modern urban life.<br />
Lastovo is a town <strong>of</strong> chimneys. In times past, a sign <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
wealth <strong>of</strong> a household was <strong>the</strong> size and ornateness <strong>of</strong> one’s<br />
chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Ano<strong>the</strong>r vital<br />
aspect <strong>of</strong> Lastovo’s heritage is <strong>the</strong> “Poklad” - <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />
pre-Lent carnival celebrating <strong>the</strong> island’s deliverance from<br />
Catalan pirates. An effigy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Catalan messenger takes<br />
centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide<br />
on a rope to <strong>the</strong> town centre with firecrackers exploding at<br />
its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during<br />
summertime festivals, you can see <strong>the</strong> island’s folk costume,<br />
where <strong>the</strong> men wear scarlet and black with embroidered<br />
braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.<br />
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb <strong>the</strong>m, fish adore<br />
Lastovo, and you can be sure <strong>of</strong> an excellent meal here.<br />
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few <strong>shop</strong>s, and<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is little accommodation with a few families <strong>of</strong>fering<br />
private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and<br />
happy to adapt to <strong>the</strong> treacle-slow passage <strong>of</strong> time here, this<br />
could well be <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> an enduring love affair.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Mljet<br />
Sounds <strong>of</strong> Mljet<br />
A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... <strong>the</strong> flapping <strong>of</strong> a<br />
sail out in <strong>the</strong> channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ...<br />
<strong>the</strong> bray <strong>of</strong> a donkey. Silence.<br />
Mljet gets a growing share <strong>of</strong> tourists, but as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> more<br />
remote and less developed islands, with limited ferry service,<br />
it lacks <strong>the</strong> kind <strong>of</strong> mass tourism <strong>of</strong> much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dalmatian<br />
coast and some o<strong>the</strong>r more accessible islands. This isn’t <strong>the</strong><br />
place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One<br />
might hope it never will be. A ferry connects <strong>the</strong> island with<br />
<strong>the</strong> Pelješac Peninsula.<br />
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this<br />
island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.<br />
Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3 km wide and 37<br />
km long making it attractive to explore for a short or lengthier<br />
stop. It has an area <strong>of</strong> roughly 100 square km with 131 km<br />
<strong>of</strong> coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so<br />
you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest<br />
tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy<br />
to see why Mljet is called <strong>the</strong> “Green Island.” Mljet <strong>of</strong>fers<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong> neretvA CountY<br />
Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59<br />
90 07, www.lastovo.hr. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
a panorama <strong>of</strong> coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets<br />
as well as <strong>the</strong> rich topography <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hills that rise steeply<br />
above <strong>the</strong> sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering<br />
ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite<br />
an array <strong>of</strong> fish and several types <strong>of</strong> corals. With fantastic<br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r, recreational sports, hiking and bicycle paths are<br />
only a fraction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pleasures that you can enjoy here. The<br />
western end <strong>of</strong> Mljet has been protected as a National Park<br />
since 1960.<br />
The ancient Greeks who settled here left <strong>the</strong> first record <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey)<br />
because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> many bees that made <strong>the</strong>ir home <strong>the</strong>re. Greek<br />
settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising<br />
nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).<br />
The Illyrians settled <strong>the</strong> entire island in <strong>the</strong> 2nd Century<br />
BC, leaving graves and traces <strong>of</strong> military fortifications and<br />
settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The<br />
best preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above<br />
<strong>the</strong> Veliko Jezero, and <strong>the</strong> fort <strong>of</strong> Vodica near Babino Polje.<br />
The Romans followed, <strong>the</strong>ir era lasting from <strong>the</strong> 2nd Century<br />
BC to <strong>the</strong> 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out <strong>the</strong> Illyrians<br />
in 35 BC, <strong>the</strong> Romans built <strong>the</strong>ir own settlements on <strong>the</strong><br />
western side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island. Evidence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir domain is most<br />
notable in Polače, where <strong>the</strong>y built a palace. O<strong>the</strong>r Roman<br />
ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.<br />
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along <strong>the</strong> entire Adriatic<br />
coast around <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 8th and <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 9th<br />
Century. During this period <strong>of</strong> weakened Byzantine influence<br />
in <strong>the</strong> region, Croatians descended from <strong>the</strong> Neretva Valley<br />
and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained<br />
on <strong>the</strong> western end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island for about ano<strong>the</strong>r 300 years,<br />
until <strong>the</strong>y were defeated in a battle on <strong>the</strong> mountain Bijeđ,<br />
between Blato and Polače. Evidence <strong>of</strong> this battle, including<br />
mass graves and remnants <strong>of</strong> bones, spears, swords and<br />
arrows, was discovered in 1938.<br />
In 1151, Prince Desa <strong>of</strong> Zahumlje donated <strong>the</strong> entire island<br />
<strong>of</strong> Mljet to <strong>the</strong> Benedictine Abbey <strong>of</strong> St Mary <strong>of</strong> Pulsano from<br />
Apulia. The arrival saw <strong>the</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> a church and<br />
grand monastery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Benedictines (1177-1198) on <strong>the</strong><br />
islet in Veliko Jezero.<br />
Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired <strong>the</strong> Pelješac<br />
Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This<br />
changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent<br />
<strong>of</strong> Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held <strong>the</strong> island until <strong>the</strong><br />
dissolution <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Republic under Napoleon in 1808.<br />
Getting There and Around<br />
Transportation to <strong>the</strong> island is provided by Jadrolinija ferry<br />
from Pelješac. Mljet is only 8km away from <strong>the</strong> peninsula <strong>of</strong><br />
Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There<br />
Winter 2011/2012<br />
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