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Out <strong>of</strong> town<br />
Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75<br />
44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.<br />
com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova<br />
kuća next door, but <strong>the</strong> shady terrace and old-fashioned<br />
stone interior present stiff competition to <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>the</strong>r more<br />
modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters,<br />
this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing<br />
<strong>the</strong> cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
(70 - 200kn). PALGB<br />
Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66,<br />
mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks,<br />
plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey<br />
and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough!<br />
This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is<br />
right on <strong>the</strong> Cavtat waterfront.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />
December - March. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBX<br />
Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20)<br />
75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr,<br />
www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia<br />
Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a<br />
crime not to try <strong>the</strong> fresh oysters from <strong>the</strong> Bay <strong>of</strong> Ston directly<br />
in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by<br />
sharp pieces <strong>of</strong> prawn detritus in <strong>the</strong> robustly flavourful risotto<br />
and by <strong>the</strong> stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(60 - 100kn). PALGB<br />
Leut Trumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/<br />
(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.com, www.<br />
restaurant-leut.com. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best places to try quality<br />
local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on <strong>the</strong> waterfront in <strong>the</strong><br />
very centre <strong>of</strong> this beautiful little town is renowned among<br />
locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes<br />
to steaks and seafood ei<strong>the</strong>r. Open from February 4.QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBX<br />
Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com,<br />
www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family<br />
run hotel <strong>of</strong>fering photo safaris in <strong>the</strong> Neretva delta and local<br />
freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage<br />
doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range <strong>of</strong><br />
traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef<br />
in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50<br />
- 120kn). PALGBX<br />
Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23<br />
34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com.<br />
hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt to enjoy <strong>the</strong> shallow, fine sand<br />
beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this ra<strong>the</strong>r special<br />
place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands<br />
on your table. The food is excellent, and <strong>the</strong> pomegranate<br />
rakija a unique experience! QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. December<br />
- April Open on request. (60 - 120kn). AGBX<br />
Make friends? Just click!<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Kontonjata<br />
From Dubrovnik in <strong>the</strong> south, it’s a strongly flavoured<br />
dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly<br />
at all but is instead <strong>the</strong> wiggly product <strong>of</strong> a sweet and<br />
bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas <strong>of</strong>ten place<br />
a number <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se yellow guys all around <strong>the</strong> house to<br />
ward <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> raunchier stenches that can build up from<br />
time to time.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Pizza<br />
Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be <strong>the</strong><br />
first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your<br />
tummy! QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. Closed February. (25 - 80kn).<br />
PNGBS<br />
Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30,<br />
meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves<br />
up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be<br />
a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a<br />
grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark<br />
wood pub with a great stack <strong>of</strong> rock-based CDs on <strong>the</strong><br />
bar. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed January. (27 - 70kn).<br />
PJAGBS<br />
Oliva D-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94. In an<br />
alleyway behind <strong>the</strong> Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more<br />
au<strong>the</strong>ntic than some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r pizzerias in town, as if a<br />
bit more thought has gone into <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ingredients<br />
that go on top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pie. Pizzas come in sizes <strong>of</strong> ei<strong>the</strong>r small<br />
(i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - <strong>the</strong> larger<br />
ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half<br />
hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share<br />
with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed February - March 15. (40 -<br />
90kn). PAGB<br />
Seafood<br />
Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 36 82. Kamenice has legions <strong>of</strong> fans around <strong>the</strong> world for<br />
its huge portions <strong>of</strong> tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices.<br />
It’s a simple place on <strong>the</strong> market square, near <strong>the</strong> statue <strong>of</strong><br />
Mr Gundulić. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed January 6 - 31.<br />
(58 - 110kn). BS<br />
Pergola H-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 68<br />
48/(+385-) 098 24 37 61, pergola1862@net.hr. This<br />
little restaurant has been on this spot for years. It’s sweet<br />
and intimate with attentive staff, and is well known for<br />
exceptionally fresh fish, simply prepared to let <strong>the</strong> flavours<br />
come to <strong>the</strong> fore. On <strong>the</strong> pleasant terrace, food is prepared on<br />
a charcoal grill before your very eyes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(80 - 150kn). PALG<br />
Ice cream and cakes<br />
Dolce vita C-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 16 66. This colourful little spot does great cakes,<br />
muffins and ice cream - among <strong>the</strong> best in town - just <strong>of</strong>f<br />
Stradun. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNB<br />
GradsKavana D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.meaculpa.hr.<br />
The excellent city c<strong>of</strong>fee house, for many years<br />
a cult meeting place, has a superb collection <strong>of</strong> cakes.<br />
We particularly like <strong>the</strong> macaroni cake with walnuts and<br />
<strong>the</strong> almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is<br />
excellent too. Melt in <strong>the</strong> mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
PJAB<br />
Sugar&Spice B-3, Sv.Josipa 5, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
40 39,/(+385-) 091 361 95 50, www.sugarandspice<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com.<br />
Every once in a while most <strong>of</strong> us<br />
surrender to a craving and this small temple <strong>of</strong> sweet<br />
and salty Croatian homemade delicious cakes, tarts<br />
and souvenirs is just <strong>the</strong> haven needed. It is located in<br />
<strong>the</strong> tranquil part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old Town, just beside <strong>the</strong> Stradun<br />
where you can sit on <strong>the</strong> terrace and indulge in c<strong>of</strong>fee or<br />
anything your taste buds desire. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed January. A<br />
Winter 2011/2012<br />
25