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DUBROVNIK
N°9 - complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2011/2012
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
Experience Dubrovnik
this coming winter and
spring
Enriche your experience with
numerous crafty workshops
Sparkle of a different
kind
See the beauty of silk production
in Konavle

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on the Adriatic Sea
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offers full access to amenities at this stunning waterfront resort, including a 201-room
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International Telephone +385 (0)20 361 650 or toll-free 0800 44 33 22

Contents
Arriving in Dubrovnik 6
Where the action is
Introducing Dubrovnik 7
What’s it all about?
Glossary 8
Don’t get caught with your trousers down
Culture & Events 9
Renaissance art to island reggae
Silk Production 17
Where to stay 18
Home sweet home
Restaurants 22
Enjoy the riches
Cafés 27
Where to watch the world go by
Nightlife 28
When you just gotta boogie
What to see 30
Those sights explained
Interactive 37
Workshops, cooking and cycling
See another side to Dubrovnik this winter and spring with
some handy workshops available, visit our Interactive
category for further details. Photo by Ljubo Gamulin
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Contents
You never know what you are bound to bump into in the Old
Town, take a look at these parrots having a nibble.
Mail & Phones 38
“I just called to say I luuuurve you…”
Getting around 39
An explorer’s bible
Shopping 41
Take a little piece of my heart
Business Directory 46
Banks and stuff
Lifestyle Directory 47
Important numbers
Dubrovnik Neretva County 48
Out and about around the city
Maps & Index
County map 58
Street index 59
City map 60
City centre map 62
Index 64
Country map 65
Winter 2011/2012
3

4 Foreword
Producing a guide to Dubrovnik in the off-season didn’t seem
like such a good idea at the outset. Isn’t this the time of year
when half of the hotels close down, the locals stay at home
to recover their tourist-frazzled nerves, a cold wind whistles
through a deserted Old Town and tumbleweeds roll down
an empty Stradun?
In fact we didn’t have as much trouble filling our pages as
we thought. Winter in the southern Adriatic is chock-full
of intriguing events, with centre stage occupied by the
pageantry of St Blaise’s Day on February 3 and the pre-
Lenten carnival later that month. Both of these festivals are
authentic folk affairs, celebrated by locals for at least the
last one thousand years – they’re certainly very different
from the tourist-oriented entertainments that take place in
town over the summer.
It’s also frequently forgotten that Dubrovnik is a university
city hosting a year-round population of hormonally-fuelled
young humans – few of whom have much to worry about
save for which café to lounge around in and where to begin
the weekend campaign of partying. And with traditionally
mild winter weather usually followed by the onset of an early
spring, the city’s social life remains a vibrant, vivacious and
largely outdoor affair whatever the time of year.
In Your Pocket Video Guides
In Your Pocket goes into the movie business...
Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually
been putting together some extensive video
guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using
our own editors, writers and local researchers as
presenters. You can see much of our video content
embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com,
or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube
channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.
Download free instant guide!
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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Draškovićeva 66
Zagreb, Croatia
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1846-0852
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja
Cover: Duje Klarić, Lighthouse
Ploča. One of the participants of the
photo competition.
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson,
Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić,
Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield
Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić
Layout & Design Ivana Novak,
Kornelia Kovačević, Gordan
Karabogdan
Photos DIY Pocket team, Dubrovnik-
Neretva County Tourist Board,
Marko Ercegović, Eugen Miljan, Marin
Šperanda, Krešimir Žanetić, Adriatic
Photo Service, Kojan koral
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Europe In Your Pocket
In Your Pocket broke much new ground in 2010,
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Bosch), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brač and
Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Niš) and in
Switzerland (Zurich). We also took the wraps off
Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the second largest
city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation with
Cultural Heritage Without Borders. We also
began rolling out iPhone apps to all our cities.
We will be launching even more In Your Pocket
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Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra
1992 - 2010. Maps copyright of the
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
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copyright owner. The brand name In Your
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Editor’s note
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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

6 Arriving in dubrovnik
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centres
i
Gruž I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32,
tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@
tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -14:00. Closed Sun.
Pile C-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.
pile@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.
Tourist Boards
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Touris Board
I-3, Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99,
info@visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.
hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel.
(+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.
tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.
By boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries
old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town and
the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and
quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.
Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the world,
but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers. Hotel
Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good accommodation
and you can take a bath or shower there. There’s
a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and loads of
small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks onto
the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are
located. Getting to town: hop on an orange bus number 1A,
1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 10kn if you buy it
from a news kiosk, 12kn if you buy it on board. Tickets must
be cancelled in the machine next to the driver immediately
on boarding.
By bus The city has a new coach station close to the Gruž
harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry
terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: Open
05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing
money: head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs
and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn.
Left luggage: the garderoba works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn per
hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Public phones are on
the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus
a large Konzum supermarket next door (Open 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00). Getting to town: buses to town stop
right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B or 3. Tickets cost
12kn from the driver or 10kn if you buy them in a kiosk or
in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09
70 and 0800 14 41.
By car For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik.
Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re safest
sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware
that during weekends approaching August, all roads become
catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll
booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik,
you can either travel:
Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you
inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible
bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a
corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your
passport or ID card handy.
Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the
A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading
south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska
Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but
you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.
When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east
and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check
out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for
traffic information.
By plane Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik.
It’s small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant
and café, plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post
office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals
hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and 2kn per
hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is in the
arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town:
Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into
town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance
to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the
bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the
airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a
day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn. Dubrovnik
Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33 33, www.
airport-dubrovnik.hr.
By train Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic
narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to
learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are
determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either Split
(services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb, Sarajevo
and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612
Dubrovnik Neretva County (April 2011): 122.783
Dubrovnik (April 2011): 28.113
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with
Italy.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist
attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are
some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just
named some of its most pure!
Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County
measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea.
Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian
coast, 47 of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time
Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud
of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort,
however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how
many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons
for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a
way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are
known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty
or boastful pride.
Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls
and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people
of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar
and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the
main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called,
was an island, offering some protection from attack, but,
of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful
citizens their shelter.
That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were
under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades,
Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.
But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the
nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became
a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining
independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and,
indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.
The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other
areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of
Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that
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it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And
during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture
flourished, leading to a love for harmony in one’s surroundings,
a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped
the language of Croatian that we can hear today.
This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town,
this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can
be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its
annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, in 2010
held for the 61st time. It can also be heard – this is a city of
music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk
vernacular of the coast and hinterland.
Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also
manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for
example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And
alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally
came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see
the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to
the sides of buses.
It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny
Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might
lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when
the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his
armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense
of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results,
happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved
culture that’s a joy to uncover.
Winter 2011/2012
7

8 gLossArY
National holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
April 8 2012 Easter
April 9 2012 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers' Day
June 7 2012 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
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Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna
equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed
to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn
minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at
all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can
import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres
of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export;
however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from
Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export
approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory
department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further
details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
-10
Rainfall, mm
100
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N
D
Become a fan of Dubrovnik In
Your Pocket on
75
50
25
0
Health & Safety
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye
should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless.
The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis;
keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of
identity documents, so keep some identification on you at
all times.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as
well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Toilets
Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option
is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail
yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street
Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re
Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.
Roads
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies
to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5%
applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave
it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but
given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will
probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed
kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed
traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed
patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The
speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked;
80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the
spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any
reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car
registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure
to always keep them with you.
Tipping
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to
tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy
thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
Take a hike!
In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around
the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres.
After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula,
or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala
Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount
Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb, but with the prospect
of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle
has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks,
remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office
in Cavtat for a map.
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Exhibitions
22.12 Thursday 2011 - 05.02 2012 Sunday
Branko Kovačević (1911-1988.) Exhibition
celebrating the 100th anniversary since the
birth of the artist
D-3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery / Ronald Brown
Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića One artist’s
unlimited by style and theme with paintings that contain
elements of expressionism, constructivism and intimism.
Some of Kovačević’s highlights include majestic portrayals of
the Mediterranean Sea and in particular motives of Dubrovnik
and Cavtat.
25.11 Friday - 02.01 2012 Monday
Mirko Rački (1879-1982) Works with sacral
motives from the Dubrovnik Art Gallery
Collection
L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23. Upon entering
this exhibit you may think you are in some chapel or so for
Rački was fascinated by sacral themes and images often
portraying the crucifixion, the resurrection and other holy
themes. A special catalogue will explain his works, special
orders and newspaper articles published in his time.
15.01 2012 Sunday - 15.02 2012 Wednesday
Performance in Dubrovnik
L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23. The
inauguration of this event was in the late 1980’s and most
works reflect social and political themes as well as the
personal world of emotions dream and desires. This event is
a platform for local artists to express their talents through
performance as captured in photographs, video and other
mediums.
01.03 2012 Thursday - 20.04 2012 Friday
Mato Celestin Medović - Retrospective
L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23, www.
ugdubrovnik.hr. The exhibition by the most famous Croatian
painter-plenerist is the pinnacle of this year’s Dubrovnik Art
Gallery’s art season. Mato Celestin Medović was the founder
of 20th century Croatian landscape fine art. He is the serene
counterpart of the ‘temperamental and light manner’ of Vlaho
Bukovac with whom he was the founder of Croatian Modern
Art. Mediterranean landscapes beaming with sunshine, still
life paintings, subtle portraits and magnificent altar pallets,
as well as rich historical inscenations, are reason enough
for a prolonged stay in the halls of the Dubrovnik Art Gallery
during these spring months.
November 2011 - January 2012
Advertising in Dubrovnik’s newspapers
between 1882 and 1918
D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32
14 97. From the late 19th century and up until the First World
War tabloids fared prominently in this Medieval City and this
exhibition reflects the birth and development of advertising
via age old city newspapers. Take light of the detail, print
and format with attention given to advertisements relating
to goods and services by private and public personas,
merchants, craftsmen, local, and foreign entrepreneurs
throughout the entire Austro-Hungarian Empire. The intensive
life in the city is seen throughout these prints!
Cinemas
Sloboda D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32
14 25. Q Box office open two hours before the first
projection.
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CuLture & events
Tošo Dabac
Tošo Dabac
Tošo Dabac
November 2011 -January 2012
Lloyd’s Travels
D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20)
32 14 97. What was it like to travel in style over 100 years
ago? This exhibition presents the beginning of round trip
cruises in our country with images of cruise ships made by
the company ‘Yugoslav Lloyd’. Their steam boats ‘Queen
Mary’ and ‘Princess Olga’ personify the luxury and content
that was offered back then. See the destinations they visited,
the types of travellers who craved such tourism, as well as
their impressions and experiences.
Winter 2011/2012
9

10 CuLture & events
Libertas Film Festival
February - July 2012
Saint Blaze in history and art
D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1 and Žitnica Rupe
(Granary Rupe).
When strolling around the Old City of Dubrovnik simply count
the amount of times you pass an image of Saint Blaze, patron
to Dubrovnik. You’ll be left dumfound! He lives not only in
the walls but in the hearts of city folk and has so since the
10th century. A huge insight is given into his life, his works,
his martyrdom and visions that saved this city from imperial
attack. As a symbol of the city, his images in art, banners,
money, stamps, medals through to statues on city buildings
and walls are everywhere. City museums will hold exhibitions
that portray the importance of Saint Blaze as seen through art
and culture, a true adornment to a much loved Saint.
May 2012 - June 2012
Steve McCurry - Photographs
L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23.
See the work of New York based photojournalist Steve
McCurry who is best known for his award winning photograph
‘Afghan Girl’. Having covered international conflicts from all
over the world, this renegade with a camera presents several
of his series from the 1980s until today. Themes differ from
landscape shots, portraits to images of war.
Special events
03.12 Saturday - 07.04 2012 Saturday
Metropolitan Opera
B-2, Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum, Poljana
Paska Miličevića 4. Opera devotees ought to be jumping
in queues to see some smashing shows broadcast live in
spectacular 5D vision from New York’s famous Metropolitan
Opera. If you cannot be there in person, then this is second
to none! Choose from the following shows -
Faust by Charles Gounod - 10. 12 2011
Enchated Island - 21. 01 2012
Manon by Jules Massenet- 07. 04 2012
Four days of carnival
18.02 2012 Saturday - 21.02 2012 Tuesday
Four days of Dubrovnik carnival
As in most other Mediterranean countries, the carnival
season occupies a hugely symbolic position in the
Dubrovnik calendar, representing the last great party of
the winter and acting as something of a season-opener
for the coming spring.
The days leading up to Shrove Tuesday have been a
time for dressing up and playing the fool ever since the
medieval era, when the carnival period was the one time
of year when the lower orders were allowed to make fun
of their rulers without being locked up. In Croatia this
satirical tradition still lives on, with many locals opting for
carnival disguises which satirize personalities who were in
the news over the course of the previous year.
This year’s Dubrovnik
carnival spans four
days, kicking off on the
morning of February
18th in front of Saint
Blaise’s Church with
the šporke makarule
cooking competition - in
which chefs from the
city’s hotels compete in
preparing the traditional
dish of the title. Literally
“dirty macaroni”, šporke
makarule consists of locally-made pasta drenched
in delicious beef-goulash sauce. It has long been a
mainstay of every self-respecting Dubrovnik housewife’s
culinary repertoire, even if it hardly ever appears on local
restaurant menus.
Over the next three days a series of fancy-dress parades
weave their way through the Old Town, and charity balls
are held in Revelin Fortress. The carnival culminates
with the main parade on Tuesday 21st, when groups of
locals (including school-children, work colleagues, and
sports teams) file along the Stradun dressed in disguises
that they may well have been working on for the whole
of the previous year. For most of the participants this is
a thoroughly modern exercise in fancy dress, although
recent years have seen the re-emergence of some of
the more ritualistic carnival characters of old - strange,
shaggy-haired monsters such as the gaping-mouthed
Coroje and the long-necked Turica are unique to the
Dubrovnik region.
Info: Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje5, tel.
(+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.
tzdubrovnik.hr.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

06.12 2011 Tuesday - 06.01 2012 Friday
Christmas fair
D-3, U Luži, head towards the front of the Church tower,
www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Local craftsmen display hand-made
decorations, candles, toys, glassware, textiles and ceramics,
while you’ll be unable to resist the scent of home-made
Christmas cookies, mulled wine, sugared almonds, candied
fruits and other local sweet specialities. Never mind, it’s all
ripened under the Dubrovnik sun so we’re sure they’re a
natural and healthy option too!
31.12 Saturday
New Year’s Eve
C-2, Stradun. Stradun, in the heart of the city is a sight to
see come New Year’s Eve; adorned with Christmas lights and
carols, it’s always filled with cheer and activity. Count down
to 2012 with some of the biggest names from the Croatian
music scene.The fireworks spectacle is set to light up the
skies above the city.
27.01 2012 Friday
The Night of the Museums
If you’re in town then your timing is exquisite as this is the one
evening that many of the countries museums are open to the
general public, and entry is entirely free! Imagine a pub crawl
made for museums, hop from one to the other with additional
events, lectures, workshops and cultural programmes on offer,
all in the one night.
10.04 2012 Tuesday - 14.04 2012 Saturday
Libertas Film Festival & Forum 2012
Sloboda Cinema, Pred Dvorom 1; Visia Cinema,
Valamar Lacroma Resort Cinema, Iva Dulčića 34, www.
libertasfilmfestival.com. Jam packed and full of delights in
what is the 8th edition of this film festival. Not only will you
be entertained by great world cinema, this interactive event
aims at giving young hopefuls a place to present their work:
includes lectures, panel discussions, film workshops and a
film forum to get your hearts racing when it comes to the big
screen. Best of all, it is free!
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
CuLture & events
Candlelight Concerts
Candlelight Concerts What could be a more
pleasurable treat than a candle-lit classical concert in
the atmospheric sorroundings of St Saviour’s Church
right on the Stradun?
March 2012
Fridays: The best off great composers, programme
perforemed by soloists Slobodan Begić, violin and Nena
Čorak, piano.
April, May 2012
Mondays: Sorkočević Quartet.
Wednesdays: Dubrovnik String Quartet. Fridays: The
best off great composers, programme perforemed by
soloists Slobodan Begić, violin and Nena Čorak, piano.
23.04 2012 Monday - 07.05 2012 Monday
The Dubrovnik Shakespeare Festival
www.dubrovnikshakespearefestival.com. The stage
truly comes to life with works by Shakespeare and his
Croatian counterpart Marin Držić. Enter a world bound only
by imagination. Pink Floyd’s classic Rock Opera, other world
premieres and workshops are in the spotlight. And then there
is gem artist Genia Chef who will spend nine days painting
a 2mx2m oil painting of Shakespeare using materials and
techniques dating to the 17th century.
24.05 2012 Thursday - 27.05 2012 Sunday
Dubrovnik International Wine&Jazz Festival
www.dubrovnikwinejazz.com. For the second time
Dubrovnik becomes a jazz centrepiece with venues such
as the Stradun and the Knežov Palace transformed into a
stage. A grand line-up of international and local jazz musicians
playing Latin jazz to Big Band swing, from New Orleans jazz
to gospel blues and much more are sure to entertain. Add to
that the local artists and sumptuous wine and food, its one
event that is hard to miss.
Marin Držić Theatre
Winter 2011/2012
11

12 CuLture & events
Galleries
Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija
Dubrovnik) L-5, Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42
65 90, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.
dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This
1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place
to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings
and sculpture which encompasses almost all important
artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.
The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald
Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle,
Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) D-3,
Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@
ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.dubrovnik@du.tcom.hr,
www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine house next to the
Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest
views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral,
rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make
up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes
in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candycoloured
landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder
that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot
more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by
the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary
of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane
crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15kn.
Homeland War
Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 1991-
1995
Imperial Fort, Srđ. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at
the ‘Fort Imperial’ building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol
in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs,
published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and
commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia,
flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a
memorial with the names of all the defenders who had
lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Artur Gallery
Martina Hohnjec
Artur Gallery B-3, Od Domina 2.
December 2011
Toni Robinson and Paul Maloney
A cross cultural treat is in store which is part of the
international exchange between Ireland and Croatia. An
exhibition of oils on canvas by two Irish academic painters
Toni Robinson and Paul Maloney, together with the
promotion and presentation of the book ‘Dubrovnik’
as published in the Irish language will be on show for
all to see.
10.01 2012 Tuesday - 30.01 2012 Monday
Carnival in Dubrovnik - An exhibition of masks made in
the papier-mâché technique.
01.02 2012 Wednesday - 10.02 2012 Friday
In Honour of Saint Blaze - A collective exhibition on the
patron Saint Blaze.
March 2012
Pigeons - An exhibition by Ivana Marinović
April 2012
Memento Milovan Stanić - An exhibition.
May 2012
The Dubrovnik Fountains - A collective exhibition.
June 2012
Nela Račić - An exhibition of oils on canvas.
Libertas Film Festival
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

MUSEUM SHOP OF THE
DUBROVNIK MUSEUMS
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back home the full enchantment that Dubrovnik o�ers?
You’ve come to the right place! �e Dubrovnik Museums
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...and much, much more
Your purchase supports �e Dubrovnik Museums and caring for the
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Visit the Dubrovnik Museums Shop at the Rector’s Palace, open daily
�om 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. (until 22 March), therea�er �om 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
CuLture & events
Winter 2011/2012
13

14 CuLture & events
The Feast of St Blaise
Phil Newman
03.02 2012 Friday
Falling on February 3, the Feast of St Blaise (Sveti Vlaho, see
p.XY) is arguably the most important date in the Dubrovnik
calendar, bringing hordes of local people onto the streets
and showcasing a good deal of folkloric tradition.
In September 2009 the feast was included by UNESCO
on the so-called “Intangible Cultural Heritage” list, which
aims to nurture unique social rituals which have a long and
authentic history. The cult of St Blaise has been central
to Dubrovnik since the tenth century, and his feast day is
known to have been celebrated every year without a break
since at least 1190.
The festivities commence on February 2, when doves are
released in front of St Blaise’s Church by the Bishop of
Dubrovnik. The next morning a commemorative mass is
held, followed at around 11:30 by a solemn procession of
priests and locals, many wearing folk costume and waving
Easter time
If you happen to be in town at Easter, you’ll have the good
fortune to be able to sample the local foods of the season
and experience how Easter traditions are interpreted in
and around Dubrovnik. Easter eggs here are handmade
by chickens, and decorated by people with delicate motifs
in beeswax, coloured with onion skin or pine (a process
locally known as penganje). The result was an ornament
to be given as a mark of love, friendship and devotion. On
Palm Sunday people carry olive branches or intricately
woven ornaments made from palms leaves. You can learn
how to make these decorations yourself at the Easter
workshops run by the Deša humanitarian women’s group.
(See: Interactive Category)
The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog
Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s
buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic
and renaissance detail, this was always a public building.
Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of
public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs
house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was
built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.
Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and
venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated
to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik
1991-92 (December - April 30 Open 10:00 - 15:30. May - May
31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission free). The upper galleries
were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals
held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State
Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic.
In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of
these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly
here for research purposes.
large banners. The procession heads up Od Puča before
returning to the church via the Stradun, watched by packed
crowds of onlookers - many of whom come regularly from
other parts of Croatia to be here on this day. Arm and leg
reliquaries containing the bones of St Blaise are carried
among the throng, allowing the faithful to touch them as
they pass.
A fun-for-all-the-family party atmosphere takes over in the
evening of the 3rd, when locals re-enact a nineteenthcentury
open-air version of bingo known as the “tombula” in
front of the Sponza Palace. As in cheesy British bingo halls,
the caller attaches silly names to the numbers (number
77 is referred to as “ladies’ legs”), but in Dubrovnik - in
a fantastic improvement on the game of bingo as it is
played elsewhere - the losers are allowed to express their
dissatisfaction by throwing rotten eggs and oranges at
the caller.
Marin Šperanda
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Marin Držić (1508 – 1567)
One of Dubrovnik’s
most cherished cultural
icons is Marin Držić,
the sixteenth-century
playwright who was
(as far as we know) the
first person to write
a major drama in the
Croatian language.
Despite writing in an
archaic dialect that
is difficult for modern
audiences to follow,
Držić is the one
Croatian dramatist that
local schoolchildren are
forced to read at least
once in their lives.
Born into a family
of merchants, Držić
s t u d i e d t h e o l o g y
in Siena and it was
here that he came
into contact with early
Renaissance theatre.
After failing to make much of a mark in any post-university
career, however, Držić spent his mid-thirties working
as secretary to Austrian diplomat Count Christoph von
Rogendorf – exposure to the court life of Vienna and
Constantinople providing Držić with plenty of useful plot
ideas. Držić’s most productive period occurred during his
forties, when he wrote a series of comedies and farces, and
at least one tragedy (“Hecuba”), the text of which is now lost.
These plays were performed during the Dubrovnik carnival
season or at the high-society social functions of the local
nobility. Failing to achieve much in the way of either fame or
fortune however, Držić returned to Italy in 1562. Previous
experience of diplomatic intrigues under von Rogendorf
probably left Držić with inflated ideas of his own conspiratorial
abilities, and he hatched a plot to overthrow the Dubrovnik
Republic with help from Italian princes. Ruler of Florence
Cosimo de Medici failed to answer Držić’s letters on the
subject, and the playwright ended a largely frustrated and
unfulfilled life in Venice in 1567.
The cultural heritage of Dubrovnik played a crucial role in
the Croatian national revival of the nineteenth century, when
Renaissance literary gems were dusted off and hailed as
landmarks of artistic achievement. It was seventeenthcentury
poet Ivan Gundulić who initially profited most from
this process of literary archeology, and it wasn’t until the
1930s that people seriously considered putting Drzic’s works
back on the Croatian stage. Since then Držić has become an
important symbol of Dubrovnik’s contribution to European
culture, and his works usually enjoy a central role in the
annual Dubrovnik Festival.
However Dubrovnik has always struggled to make Držić
relevant to foreign visitors and there are no signs of anyone
hitting on the magical formula any time soon. The Marin
Držić House-Museum (see page 35) is a pretty amusing
place to visit but for all the wrong reasons: despite the
relative lack of any meaningful exhibits, visitors are given a
headphone commentary on which hammy actors plod their
way through a series of Držić-penned text, rendered here in
awful English translation. All of which is a great shame when
one considers that Držić is as important to his own language
as Shakespeare and Molière are to theirs.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
CuLture & events
Orlando
One o f Dubrovnik’s
best-loved landmarks
is Orlando’s Column,
a pillar in the centre of
busy Luža Square with
a sword-brandishing
k n i g h t s t a n d i n g to
attention on its northern
side. Erected in 1414, it
has always served as
an unofficial symbol of
Dubrovnik’s freedomloving
status – and it’s
here that the Libertas
banner is ritually unfurled
to mark the opening of
the Dubrovnik Festival
every July.
Orlando is the Italian
(and Dubrovnik dialect)
name for Roland, a legendary eighth-century Frankish
knight who died heroically defending a Pyrenean pass
from an army of Saracens. The tale was popularized
by the Chanson de Roland, an eleventh-century
Norman-French poem that was spread across Europe
by wandering troubadours. Preaching chivalrous values
such as loyalty to one’s liege and a readiness to fight
unto the last, the Chanson was hugely popular in courtly
circles and was also useful as a propaganda tool,
encouraging western knights to join the Crusades.
The original Roland was thought to have been a nephew
of the great Frankish Emperor Charlemagne, and his cult
was cultivated by rulers eager to associate themselves
with imperial glamour. Roland’s popularity spread
throughout German-speaking Europe during the reign
of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, and it was here that
statues of Roland began to catch on in a big way – no
self-respecting city wanted to be left without one. Over
50 statues of the knight sprung up in various locations,
with Dubrovnik being the southernmost city to sprout
an example.
How and why Roland-mania arrived in Dubrovnik remains
unclear. The city was well acquainted with the world of
central Europe (indeed Charles IV’s son Sigismund of
Luxemburg passed through here in 1396), so it’s no
surprise that the knightly cult found expression here too.
Local chroniclers developed the appealing but wholly
improbable theory that Roland himself once visited
Dubrovnik, duelling with a Saracen pirate called Spuzente
and saving the city in the process. Placing a statue of
Roland in a prominent city square was a subtle way of
reminding Dubrovnik’s Ottoman suzerains that the locals
would always identify with Christian Europe rather than
Constantinople.
The statue was knocked over by a storm in 1825, and
lay forgotten in a storehouse until someone thought it
wise to re-erect it in 1878. Since then the angelic-faced
little knight has become the city’s most popular social
focus, presiding over countless chance meetings and
assignations.
www.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2011/2012
15

Silk Production in Konavle
The Chinese discovered how to make silk as long ago as
2850 BC. They jealously guarded the secrets of breeding
silkworms and making silk from the rest of the world: the act
of smuggling silkworms over the border was punishable by
death. However, a pair of missionaries smuggled out silkworm
pupae in their bamboo staffs and thus the Europeans came
to know this fine fabric in the 5th century BC.
According to the oldest written records, silk production in
Dubrovnik’s Konavle region goes back to the 15th century.
Silk was an exceptionally important fabric here since it was
used in weaving the Konavle folk dress – one of the most
beautiful aspects of Croatian cultural heritage. In this part
of the world, people literally were born with silk, lived with it
and died with it, and the art of producing silk was passed
among women from generation to generation. Women from
Konavle had great respect for the tradition of breeding
silkworms and making silk; it was a part of their regional
identity and a family tradition to which they remained loyal.
You can see silk worked into Konavle folk dress, most often
on decorative bibs and bodices, aprons, caps, waistcoats,
suits and elsewhere.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
siLk produCtion
Perhaps the most interesting thing about silk production
is rearing the silkworms themselves. In order to obtain the
highest quality threads, man must work in harmony with
silk moths, silk worms (in Konavle dialect: bubice) and the
white mulberry trees on which they feed. The silken threads
are teased from the silkworm’s cocoon (punćela), which is
made from a single thread of raw silk between 300 and
900 metres long.
Up until the 1960s almost everyone in the Konavle region
made silk, but then the tradition started to die out. It is thanks
to the hard work and dedication of a small number of local
women that the tradition managed to survive and be passed
on for a few more generations.
However, the war that broke out here in the 1990s abruptly
robbed the women of Konavle of their homes and livelihoods.
If it hadn’t been for a lady named Jany Hansal from the local
non-governmental organization Deša, who managed to bring
the silkworms back to the south of Croatia, the silkmaking
tradition may now be just a memory. 18 years ago the
bubice returned to Konavle, smuggled in from France in the
voluptuous curves of one lady.
Today around ten families in Konavle raise silkworms, and silk
is an attractive part of the tourist offering. During the month
of May, the time when the silkworms feed, workshops on
producing silk are held throughout Konavle (See Interactive
Category). You can also take part: perhaps you’ll fall in love
with this ancient craft and start raising your own silkworms
and making this wonderful fabric. Thank goodness for the
women of Konavle who refused to allow this part of Konavle’s
identity and heritage to be lost forever.
www.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2011/2012
17

18 where to stAY
Cream of the crop
Bellevue J-4, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 35 30 00,
fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@alh.hr, www.
alh.hr. Renovated with 91 rooms that provide spectacular
balcony views of the Adriatic and a minimalist interior
equipped with all the necessities. Indulge in local art works,
à la carte restaurant Vapor, spa centre, indoor pool, a private
beach and more. Only minutes from the town centre. Closed
November 15 - March.Q91 rooms (77 doubles €232 - 800,
13 suites €495 - 1200, 1 Presidential Suite €2900 - 3200).
PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh
Dubrovnik Palace F-3, Masarykov put 20, tel. (+385-
20) 43 00 00, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@
alh.hr, www.alh.hr. Hits the spot if you have contemporary
tastes and take your surroundings seriously. A great
pool and beach area, spa facilities and cool reception
complete with arty waterfall and gallery. Closed November
21 - March.Q330 rooms (22 singles €161 - 320, 271
doubles €180 - 540, 12 suites €630 - 1600, 24 Junior
Suites €300 - 940, 1 Presidential Suite €3420 - 3800).
PTHARUFLEGBKDCW hhhhh
Excelsior M-5, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-20) 35 33
53, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@alh.hr, www.
alh.hr. Completely renovated, this luxurious landmark has
141 bedrooms and 17 suites with every amenity possible.
Delightfully furnished with state of the art facilities. Set near
the heart of the Old City with splendid terraced views, fine
dining with Dalmatian and international cuisine, an indoor pool,
wellness and beauty centre, private beach entry and more.
Q158 rooms (2 singles €218 - 340, 139 doubles €218 - 790,
16 suites €675 - 1300, 1 Presidential Suite €3750 - 4050).
POTJHARUFLGBKDCW hhhhh
Grand Villa Argentina L-2, Frana Supila 14, tel. (+385-
20) 44 05 55, fax (+385-20) 47 57 93, reservations@
gva.hr, www.gva.hr. Something of a Dubrovnik classic, the
Argentina has been receiving high-rollers ever since its 1920s
heyday. Located ten minutes’ walk from the Ploče Gate, many
of the hotel’s sea-facing rooms boast classic views of the
town’s medieval fortifications. Rooms in the main building
are supremely comfortable, and there is more secluded
apartment-style accommodation in the four villas in the
terraced gardens. With both indoor and outdoor pools and a
private beach, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to taking
a dip. Open from March.Q165 rooms (159 doubles €140 -
390, 6 suites €390 - 1200). PTHAFGBKDCW
hhhhh
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik K-3, Marijana Blažića
2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20,
sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.
com. Refurbished and reopened in 2006 amidst a blaze of
imperial glory, this grandmomma of a hotel, dating back to
1897, is near the Pile gate. Suites have fantastic views, and
the terrace and piano bar are fine spots to unwind, as is the
elegant indoor pool with natural sunlight. Q147 rooms (139
singles €89, 139 doubles €134, 139 triples €179, 4 suites
€398, 1 Presidental Suite €1003, 3 Junior Suites €321).
PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh
Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel.
(+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@
importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com.
Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort. Choose from two hotels,
Neptun (4 stars) or Ariston (5 stars), or Importanne suites
(5 stars) that are nestled along the sea. Wellness facilities,
sports and recreation, private car park, personalised services
and a buffet restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along
with a noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or
walk along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings
are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the
Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as
state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q236
rooms (206 doubles €50 - 200, 30 apartments €70 - 400).
PTHAUIFLGBKDCW
More F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49
42 00, fax (+385-20) 49 42 40, sales@hotel-more.hr,
www.hotel-more.hr. This cliff-hugging establishment on the
quiet side of Lapad bay offers the facilities of a blockbuster
hotel but with a significantly more intimate feel - here at
least you are unlikely to be stampeded by hundreds of other
holidaymakers whose faces the hotel staff can never quite
remember. The décor is slightly more individualistic too,
with mood-enhancing squiggly blue-green carpet motifs and
bronzey-coloured bedspreads. All rooms come with a trouserpress,
a comforting luxury to have by your bedside even if you
only treat it as a toy rather than using it properly. There is a
small kidney-shaped pool on one of the sea-facing terraces -
too small to seriously swim in but a nice touch nevertheless.
Breakfast in the café-restaurant on a lovely sea-facing terrace.
Q44 rooms (5 singles €150, 34 doubles €190, 2 Junior
Suites €350, 2 Deluxe Suites €450, 1 Executive Suites €600).
PHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant D Sauna
C Swimming pool 6 Animal friendly
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

where to stAY
Visit Dubrovnik Sun Gardens award winning Spa, and spend your cold winter afternoons in a variety of indulgent
treatments, hydrotherapy pool with therapeutic massage jets , traditional coal and salt sauna, hammam, aromatherapy
steam room and much more.
For more active leisure time choose between a range of facilities from our comprehensive sports and recreation centre
-a-side football pitch.
Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put
3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20,
libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. This grandiose
cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally
ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages
before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved.
With full-sized trees in the lobby and cool minimalist design
throughout, it’s an impressive place. Rooms are decked out
in subdued beiges and whites, many featuring glass walled
bathrooms (so you can look seawards while showering).
The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from
a Turkish bath to chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that
can be filled with milk - if you’ve always dreamed of acting
out your Anthony-and-Cleopatra fantasies then you’ll
never have a better chance. The hotel’s impressively
large congress halls are situated right next door to the
24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship
between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit? Q254
rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 - 300,
16 suites €300 - 750, 1 Presidential Suite €500 - 2000).
POTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh
The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20)
32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, reception@
thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. A
breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old
Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken
the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic. The
staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful
approach. Q19 rooms (1 singles €95 - 225, 16 doubles
€120 - 415, 1 suites €625 - 775, 1 Junior Suite €450 - 550).
PTJAR6LEGBKW hhhhh
www.inyourpocket.com
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik
www.dubrovniksungardens.com
Upmarket
Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44,
fax (+385-20) 32 12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com, www.
hotelstarigrad.com. This little antique treasure is hidden in
a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are
small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace
is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Open from March. Q8
rooms (4 singles 743 - 1005kn, 4 doubles 1050 - 1440kn).
PJA6UGBW hhhh
Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80,
fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The brand new Uvala
exemplifies clean modern design, a philosophy echoed by
the wellness centre (offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and a
restaurant offering a full macrobiotic menu. Indoor and outdoor
pools, plus internet access in rooms and smallish conference
facilities making this a viable business option. Open from
March 25. Q51 rooms (45 doubles €150 - 270, 6 triples
€120 - 216). PTHAIFLEGBKDCwW
hhhh
Mid-range
Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20)
49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@
berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel
with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request the
wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in style,
free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to mention
excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is located
close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to the islands;
it’s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old City. Closed January
15 - March. Q24 rooms (13 doubles €65 - 120, 4 apartments
€100 - 160, 7 Studio Rooms €70 - 140). PALGCW
hhh
Winter 2011/2012
19

20 where to stAY
Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 10, tel. (+385-20) 43
35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@
hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A slightly
older, smaller hotel close to the centre of Lapad affords an
intimate atmosphere. Rooms overlook a rather lovely pool
area, and there’s great outdoor seating for mealtimes. A wide
range of free time activities laid on with a smile, and facilities
for small meetings. Open from March 25. Q63 rooms (8
singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles €74 - 180, 4 triples €104 - 252).
PTHA6LEBKCW hhh
Kompas G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 56, tel. (+385-
20) 35 20 00, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@
alh.hr, www.alh.hr. This smallish hotel close to the centre
of Lapad is delightfully appointed in a clean and tasteful style
in keeping with its modern design. The indoor and outdoor
seawater pools (weather permitting) are excellent. Closed
February 10 - March. Q115 rooms (7 singles €80 - 150, 108
doubles €95 - 270). PTHAIFLEGBKDC
hhh
Lero I-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax
(+385-20) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www.hotellero.hr.
This complex is perfectly located between the Old
Town and Gruž Cove. It’s a five minute bus ride to the centre
and the beach is a mere 150m walk. All 160 rooms include
air-conditioning, SAT-TV, shower, and toilet facilities. Breakfast
and dinner packages are available as Tavern Nava and the
Aperitif Bar are all in-house. Q155 rooms (155 singles €52
- 68, 155 doubles €60 - 88). PHA6LBKDCW
hhh
Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-
20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.
hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey
pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside than
it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms decorated in
blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer an absolutely
fascinating panorama of comings-and-goings in Gruz harbour,
and if you like downtown hotels with a sense of urban bustle
then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel’s Taverna Nostromo
offers a solid range of local food. Laptop users rejoice: wifi
coverage extends throughout the building. Closed December,
January. Q104 rooms (8 singles €35, 96 doubles €50).
PHARIFLGBKW hhh
Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 50, fax
(+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com,
www.hotelimaestral.com. The high spot of the Vis is the
rather fine shingle beach with tables right by the water’s
edge where you can indulge in sensory pleasures from the
Lido restaurant and bar right into the evening. A mid-sized
modern affair aimed at families, spick and span and rather
friendly. Prices are per person. Open from March 25. Q151
rooms (9 singles €46 - 108, 136 doubles €82 - 182, 6 triples
€122 - 255). PTHALEGBKW hhh
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Hostel
Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana
3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42
32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.
hr, www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is
sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful
and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen
is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and
you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q 82 dorm
beds, 17 - 19€ per person. ABK
Fresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-)
091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh.com.
One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget
accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a
friendly well-travelled Canadian / Croatian couple. Funky,
characterful dorms, free breakfast and a guesthouse
atmosphere make this place a true jewel. There’s a lively
but not over-raucous bar and lounge, evening film screenings,
a backpackers’ book exchange, and a list of suggested
activities that includes the (highly-recommended)
“walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”. Open from March
15. Q22 dorm beds, 20 - 30€ per person. AGW
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Budget
Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35
20, fax (+385-20) 43 35 30, adriatic@hotelimaestral.
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good sized gym and clay
tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two star hotel, and an
additional host of activities (fancy sea kayaking?) make this
a good option for sporty types. Decent, clean and friendly
accommodation in leafy surroundings on the Lapad peninsula.
Q108 rooms (9 singles €40 - 80, 82 doubles €68 - 148, 17
triples €68 - 148). PA6FLEGBK hh
Islands
Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20)
72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr,
www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the
centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st
century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has
a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms
are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows
is spectacular. Q20 rooms (18 doubles €50 - 80, 2 triples
€50 - 80). PABK hhh
Out of town
Croatia Frankopanska 10, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47
55 55, fax (+385-20) 47 82 13, info@hotelcroatia.
hr, www.hotelcroatia.hr. A short way east out of Cavtat
town, the recently renovated Hotel Croatia offers modern,
high standard accommodation. With wellness facilities,
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Reserve a room at
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
where to stAY
a well regarded taverna, a nightclub and the lively little
town of Cavtat nearby, you won’t run short of fun and
frolics. Closed December - March 15. Q487 rooms (480
singles €201 - 244, 480 doubles €212 - 256, 3 suites
€420, 2 Junior Suites €380, 2 Presidental Suites €860).
PTHAUFLEGBKDCwW hhhhh
Ostrea Mali Ston bb, tel. (+385-20) 75 45 55, fax (+385-
20) 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr.
This small hotel is well placed for sampling the delights of the
Pelješac peninsula, including the renowned seafood from the
Mali Ston bay - it’s run by the family who own the Kapetanova
kuća restaurant. Luxurious, traditional style accommodation
plus a fleet of cars at your disposal. Q14 rooms (13 singles
410 - 490kn, 13 doubles 610 - 790kn, 1 Presidental Suite
930 - 1200kn). PA6LGBKW hhh
Radisson Blue Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac,
tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, info.
dubrovnik@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/
resort-dubrovnik. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with
this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the
Old City. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe
apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants
offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines; the
Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury wellness
centre includes out of this world thermal facilities. Q408
rooms (178 doubles €260 - 280, 207 suites €350 - 500, 20
Junior Suites €400, 2 Executive Suites €800, 1 Presidential
Suite €2500). Prices need to be checked with the hotel.
PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Winter 2011/2012
21

22 restAurAnts
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino 6 Animal friendly
R Internet B Outside seating
Croatian
Bistro Glorijet H-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel.
(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@
gmail.com. Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll
find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned
into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible
prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals
as a good lunch spot. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(60 - 130kn). PAG
Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19,
nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Enjoy your
breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik,
or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the
day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with
Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto,
Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the
Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the
deep blue beyond the walls.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed
December - March. (55 - 150kn). PAUGB
Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36,
info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin.
com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient
weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your
meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod
peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. Closed January 1 - 20. (60 - 110kn). PALGB
Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/
(+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan.com,
www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny
harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set
in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s
terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic
Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
Closed December. (50 - 140kn). PJAGB
Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38
(Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-20) 41
05 25, info@petka.hr, www.croatia-vacation.com. The
food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s
citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a
casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of
modern refinement. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 120kn).
PAGB
Tovjerna Maro C-2, Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385-20) 32
12 75. Portions are not big and that is the entire point, here
they promote diversity where you can pick and choose from
an assortment of small meals enabling your taste buds to
venture with pleasure. Call it Dalmatian tapas with meats,
poultry, salads and sweets on offer, and all within your financial
grasp. The ambience is comfy, warm and inviting, sample
their fine array of Croatian and international wines. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. (25 - 45kn). PAB
Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04
84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky
south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant
15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe
is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food
on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pureand-simple
there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country
recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with
sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus
mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (80 - 120kn). PALGB
International
Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel.
(+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather
pleasant Mexican sits eccentrically just uphill from the Ploče
gates and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos,
tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and
pasta. Try the piquant sausages and a black pancake to finish
off with!QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed January
10 - February. (50 - 100kn). PVNBS
Domino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel.
(+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, www.
steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre
for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles.
The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of
Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. Closed December 20 - January 20. (80 - 140kn).
PAGB
Lucin kantun B-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32
10 03. “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun,
all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a
rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.
He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s
a nice selection of desserts.Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. April 15
- May 31 Open 07:00 - 23:30. Closed January 10 - February
10. (20 - 150kn). JB
Magellan I-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94/
(+385-) 095 908 37 41, restoran.magellan@yahoo.com.
The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural
light that floods through huge windows on all four sides. The
second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings
by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important,
is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is
fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (52 - 122kn). PAGB
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Porat K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik),
tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com,
www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Decked out in minimalist
style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the lobby of
the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in the light,
bright conservatory or the large summer terrace). Fabulous,
Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out for the
head chef’s signature dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 -
250kn). PJAGBX
Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32
21/(+385-) 099 323 22 12, kucaedo@du.t-com.hr. You
guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you
can enjoy good grilled meats including ćevapi - shish kebab.
Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet
tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced
coma! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 115kn). AGB
Taverna Otto I-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86
33, tavernaotto@net.hr. This charming little taverna has
an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting
more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great
terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the
onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé.
But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. QOpen 11:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (70 - 99kn) AGB
Konoba
Blidinje H-2, Lapadska obala 21, tel. (+385-20) 35 87
94. You feel that ‘Dalmatian’ sparkle here with its old stony
walls embellished by ancient artefacts. The restaurant is
casual and snug, whilst the terrace offers picturesque views
of the Gruž harbour, bay and surrounding hills. Situated in
the heart of the Lapad peninsula, the meat and seafood
dishes are local delights, and here they are baked under a
metal bell, covered with hot ash which produces a delectable
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
restAurAnts
roast. Reasonably priced and nicely spiced! QOpen 09:00
- 22:00. Closed December 24 - February. Closed December
24 - February (40 - 95kn). PAGB
Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20)
32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned
in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour,
offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried
small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to
wait for a table. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed January. (61 -
83kn). PAGBX
Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55.
Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of wellprepared
home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good
value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar
in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. Closed January. (60 - 180kn). AGB
Rozario D-2, Prijeko 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-)
099 315 65 50, marin.vuletic@du.t-com.hr, www.
konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip,
this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its
family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why
you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. Closed January. (70 - 125kn). PAB
Light bites
Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10
96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun
where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as
pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices.
Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (21 - 27kn). PNG
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Winter 2011/2012
23

24 restAurAnts
Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-
20) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled in
greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk offers
freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. Q December -
April 30 Open 08:00 - 23:00. May Open 08:00 - 02:00.
Tutto Bene C-3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53,
www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. A refreshing discovery
for those looking for something quick and tasty to munch:
this modern little fast food joint has a super selection of
sandwiches, tacos, burgers and pizzas as well as French fries
and dips - yummy!QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed January
10 - March. (15 - 35kn). JA
Mediterranean
Atlas club Nautica A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44
25 26, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The
place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking
the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your
smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative
cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive,
but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. Closed December - March 15. (257 - 398kn).
PJAGB
Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila
bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, info@ew-dubrovnik.com,
www.ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by the
Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far
East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches
and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a
strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes.
A classy place for a bite. Open from March.QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. (60 - 125kn). PJALGB
Oliva Gourmet C-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32
40 76, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www.olivadubrovnik.
com. This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the
narrow streets of the old town. The attractive interior is
decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here
they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed February 5 - March 15. (90
- 135kn). JB
Panorama K,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20)
31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 46, nautika@du.t-com.
hr. Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable
car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right
by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a
spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is
excellent. Bring your sunglasses! Q December, January Open
09:00 - 16:00. February, March Open 09:00 - 17:00. April, May
Open 09:00 - 20:00. (70 - 158kn). PAGB
Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76,
kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The
terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot
to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or
salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music
in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. January, February Open on request.
(60 - 130kn). PJAEGB
Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29
10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame.hr. An
Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music
and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes
orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill
sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and
pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.
Q December - March 31 Open 18:00 - 22:00. April, May Open
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). AGB
Taverna Maslina F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Dubrovnik
Palace Hotel), tel. (+385-20) 43 03 57/(+385-20) 43
00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The coolest design
hotel in Dubrovnik has an elegant restaurant with sea
views and stylish poolside seating. The cuisine is excellent:
Dalmatian specialities with a contemporary twist, and light
Mediterranean tastebud-tinglers. Grilled chicken sandwiches
make a great lunchtime treat. Open from March.QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (120 - 400kn). ALEGBX
Vapor I-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88,
www.hotel-bellevue.hr. The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is
perfectly located near the city centre and commands an
amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes
Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious
diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy
the more refined tongue. Open from March.QOpen 12:00 -
15:00, 18:30 - 22:00. (90 - 250kn). PAGBX
Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/
(+385-) 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com,
www.wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’
back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with
tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and
cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional
cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect
quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance
from Stradun. Open from February.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(70 - 290kn). PGB
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Out of town
Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75
44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.
com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova
kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned
stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more
modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters,
this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing
the cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(70 - 200kn). PALGB
Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66,
mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong
selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks,
plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey
and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough!
This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is
right on the Cavtat waterfront.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed
December - March. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBX
Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20)
75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr,
www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia
Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a
crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly
in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by
sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto
and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 100kn). PALGB
Leut Trumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/
(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.com, www.
restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try quality
local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the
very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among
locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes
to steaks and seafood either. Open from February 4.QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBX
Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel.
(+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com,
www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family
run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local
freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage
doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of
traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef
in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50
- 120kn). PALGBX
Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23
34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com.
hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand
beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special
place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands
on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate
rakija a unique experience! QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. December
- April Open on request. (60 - 120kn). AGBX
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Kontonjata
From Dubrovnik in the south, it’s a strongly flavoured
dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly
at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and
bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place
a number of these yellow guys all around the house to
ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from
time to time.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
restAurAnts
Pizza
Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-
20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the
first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your
tummy! QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. Closed February. (25 - 80kn).
PNGBS
Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30,
meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves
up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be
a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a
grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark
wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the
bar. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed January. (27 - 70kn).
PJAGBS
Oliva D-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94. In an
alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more
authentic than some of the other pizzerias in town, as if a
bit more thought has gone into the quality of the ingredients
that go on top of the pie. Pizzas come in sizes of either small
(i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - the larger
ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half
hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share
with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed February - March 15. (40 -
90kn). PAGB
Seafood
Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20)
32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for
its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices.
It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of
Mr Gundulić. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed January 6 - 31.
(58 - 110kn). BS
Pergola H-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 68
48/(+385-) 098 24 37 61, pergola1862@net.hr. This
little restaurant has been on this spot for years. It’s sweet
and intimate with attentive staff, and is well known for
exceptionally fresh fish, simply prepared to let the flavours
come to the fore. On the pleasant terrace, food is prepared on
a charcoal grill before your very eyes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(80 - 150kn). PALG
Ice cream and cakes
Dolce vita C-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20)
32 16 66. This colourful little spot does great cakes,
muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off
Stradun. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNB
GradsKavana D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20)
32 12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.meaculpa.hr.
The excellent city coffee house, for many years
a cult meeting place, has a superb collection of cakes.
We particularly like the macaroni cake with walnuts and
the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is
excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PJAB
Sugar&Spice B-3, Sv.Josipa 5, tel. (+385-20) 32
40 39,/(+385-) 091 361 95 50, www.sugarandspicedubrovnik.com.
Every once in a while most of us
surrender to a craving and this small temple of sweet
and salty Croatian homemade delicious cakes, tarts
and souvenirs is just the haven needed. It is located in
the tranquil part of the Old Town, just beside the Stradun
where you can sit on the terrace and indulge in coffee or
anything your taste buds desire. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed January. A
Winter 2011/2012
25

26 restAurAnts
Breakfast
Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32
12 29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great
surroundings. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (34 - 56kn).
AB
Orlando C,D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 73,
sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. A perfect
spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three
tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun.
Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat
yourself to pršut, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and
coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.
QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Closed December - February 15.
(10 - 74kn). JB
more desserts?
www.inyourpocket.com
Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, sales@
esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little
brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful
location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but
meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience
and friendly service make this a strong contender for
top dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (150 - 250kn).
PAGB
YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22,
ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s
yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable
spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately
enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks
the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PALB
Vegetarian
Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@
nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Jam
packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven
for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from all over
the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from
falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of thought has gone
into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a
full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke. QOpen
11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. December Open 11:30 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Closed January, February. March Open
11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ABS
Wine bars
D’vino C-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30,
info@dvino.net, www.dvino.net. In a narrow street just off
the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by
the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly
staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom
end up engaged in half-sozzled conversation on the stone
steps outside. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed December,
January. A
Mantala
A purple-coloured cake served with sweet black syrup,
almonds and cinnamon.
Gastro events
21.10 2012 Friday - 01.04 2012 Sunday
Imperial Afternoon
K-3, Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, Marijana Blažića 2. A
sweet tooth sensation coming your way! Visit the Lobby
Bar of the Imperial Hotel and drool over the endless
amount of cakes, strudels and other sweets available
for a mere 45kuna! Hotel Chef Christopher Gauci works
his magic and the price also includes coffee, tea as well
as 3 hours of free parking. On Mondays, Wednesdays,
Fridays from 15:00 to 19:00 and with live piano
performances on weekends. The winter blues suddenly
seem so sweeter!
02.02 2012 Thursday
Bitter Orange Celebration Day
D-3, Towards the Sponza Palace. For centuries
Dubrovnik gardens have been adorned by bitter orange
trees to the point that their unique scent and taste have
seen them enter food, medicine and aromatic circles. This
charity event promotes products such as cakes, jams,
marmalades and liqueurs made purely from this fruit. Just
head towards the Sponza Palace to dig in!
18.03 2012 Sunday
Festival of oysters
C-2, Stradun. Legend has it that the Austrian emperors
centuries ago loved to devour oysters, which reputedly
had magical powers. We are, of course, talking specifically
about the oysters that came from the Mali Ston Bay,
a part of the Dubrovnik region where the oysters are
still nurtured in the cleanest and clearest sea in the
world. Oysters are ripe and most tasty in March, when
the Feast of Saint Joseph is celebrated. Gastronomy
experts claim that oysters should be served fresh and
sprinkled with lemon juice. And that is exactly how you
will be able to taste them, freshly opened and with the
scent of the sea.
29.03 2012 Thursday - 01.04 2012 Sunday
Mediterranean fair of healthy food and
medicinal herbs
F-2, Tirena Hotel, Iva Dulčića 22, www.mediteranskisajam.com.
This is a great chance to learn about
traditional organic products from all over Croatia, to try out
some healthy foods and learn about natural remedies. In
this part of the world, even doctors are likely to tell you to
buy a packet of camomile tea rather than immediately
prescribing antibiotics. Funnily enough, it works and it’s
much better for you. (Obviously, always consult your
doctor first if you have pre-existing health problems or
suspect a more serious ailment).
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Cafés
In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth
living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process
seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering
who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are
always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard
espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while
a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee).
Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3. Among the many little cafés
tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our
favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place
where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
PBX
Biker’s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-)
091 764 69 19, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.hr, www.
bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourghood just
above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up
with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will
try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PNB
Blue Planet G-2, Masarykov put 3. Calling mums and
dads: the Blue Planet is unadulterated heaven for you and
your tribe. There are special kiddies’ toilets, a case full of
picture books, a Nintendo Wii and non-stop cartoons on the
TV, as well as coffee, sandwiches, cakes and salads for your
devouring pleasure. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. TB
Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. In the heart of
Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari
from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show
going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGB
Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo.
sanje@du.t-com.hr. This coffee house right on Stradun is
the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to
chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a
well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location
couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB
Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes
stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from
Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady
tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its
youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
PAGB
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
CAFés
Glam Café C-2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com.
If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as
coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the
evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good
start with one of their range of cocktails. QOpen 08:30 -
24:00. JBW
GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32
12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.
hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and
the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine
architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful
modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try
the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 -
24:00. PJAGB
Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22
60, brigita.mrkic@gmail.com. Easily overlooked, but
shouldn’t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace
just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great
music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local
travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar
weekends during high season. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. PBX
Living Room I-2, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-20)
46 86 52/(+385-) 091 567 26 32. A café/bar that is
comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat
amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well
known for its fine coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. PNGBXW
Porto Put Bruna Bušića 6, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 23
32 34. It’s a hop out of town in the village of Srebreno (you
can get there on the bus heading for Cavtat), but this big,
modern space which serves as a chillout zone by day and a
lively bar with dancing by night has proved to be very popular
with local trendseters at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00,
Sat 07:00 - 24:00. PGBX
Talir C-2, Antuninska bb. A classy spot to sup your coffee
amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not
enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings,
you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. PB
www.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2011/2012
27

28 nightLiFe
Bars
Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 65
/ press 1/(+385-) 098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.
hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. This huge space is a former repair
workshop for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the
pirate-sized wooden tables and chow down on great seafood
(served by midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band
and indulge in a spot of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any
order or combination. Spectacular. Open from March.QOpen
10:30 - 23:00. PAB
Art K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25. Unremarkable at first
glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven,
with couches made from old-fashioned bathtubs and tables
from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails,
creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. B
Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s
tower, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/(+385-) 098 36 19 34.
What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open
sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here
so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid
back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything. Q
Open according to weather conditions. B
Capitano K-3, Između vrta 2, tel. (+385-) 098 36 64
70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after
which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and
shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial
dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth
dressed to kill. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PB
Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the
Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival
Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need
it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNBXW
Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first
floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible
but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics
and friendly staff. Has one computer which is free to use.
Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00. PX
SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220
20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Administering a much-needed
dose of urban eating and drinking culture to the Old Town,
this newly opened café-cum-diner and lounge bar has settled
quickly into its own niche. Expect to find both local beer
and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and
an attractively-priced list of cocktails. There’s an excellent
choice of upscale pub fodder in the shape of salads, burgers
and steaks. Blending slate grey, soothing whites and moodenhancing
purples, the interior is smart and slinky without
being overdone. If the delightfully dotty abstract mosaic on
the back wall starts revolving in front of your eyes, though,
it’s probably time you were in bed. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
PAEBW
Casinos
Golden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel
Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@
major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Feeling lucky? Then
visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It
offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the
newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas
Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night
from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and
lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you
up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at
Golden Sun Casino! QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. EK
Clubs
Culture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort
Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61/(+385-) 091 250
25 88, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.
com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used
to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home
to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often
jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international
music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its
seaside views.QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A
Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70,
clubfuego@gmail.com, www.dubrovniknightclub.com.
A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often
find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream
rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights
when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares?
QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PNB
Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila 8, arl@du.htnet.hr, www.
arl.hr. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine
house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground
nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An
international multimedia festival is held here, which includes
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.
QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Opening hours dependent on
programme of events.
Lounge bars
Culto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer
heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is
its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere.
Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a
bubbly crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
PABX
Pubs
Arch Pub C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90,
www.dubrovnikpub.com. As the name says, it is housed
under the arch behind the Cathedral. One of the rare places
playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact
and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make
you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers
they keep. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.
PJENBX
Gaffe Pub C-3, Miha Pracata 4. The distinctive aroma,
the big wooden bar and the wall decorations all announce
one thing: this is an Irish pub. There are three big screens
where you can watch football, rugby and cricket: a list to the
left of the entrance door lets you know what’s on. Apart from
Guinness, Kilkenny and Irish coffee, there’s a great selection
of breakfasts served from 9:00 to 11:30 in summer. Out of
season, you can pick up a light lunch here from 10:00 to 15:00.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. JB
Katie O’Connor’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel.
(+385-20) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@
du.t-com.hr. Brand new in 2006 but managing to look
centuries old, this delightful stone cellar in one of the streets
leading north of Stradun is a decent spot to drink. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PABX
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dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
whAt to see
Winter 2011/2012
29

30
whAt to see
Dubrovnik justifiably invites hyperbole - every corner in
the Old Town, in its entirey a UNESCO World Heritage site,
has spellbinding charm and tells many a story. Although
the city dates back to the 7th century, many buildings
were devastated in a terrible earthquake in 1667, and
were rebuilt resulting in the rather harmonious style you
see today. The architects of Dubrovnik included the best
of the Croatian masters, including Juraj Dalmatinac (also
responsible for the cathedral at Šibenik and the entire
town of Pag) in combination with masters from Venice,
Dubrovnik’s main rival and trading partner. Architectural
beauty is perhaps a cause of a deep immersion in the arts
that manifests itself in galleries and festivals.
Essential Dubrovnik
Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)
D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. The
Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th
century, and with the building of their monastery a century
later, they became an important part of the city’s defences
- the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town,
vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone
steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades
have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout
ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position,
from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel
of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick
carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery
church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof
and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery,
like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection
of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great
earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been
invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old
Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano
and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and
19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 18:00. Q November - March 31
Open 09:00 - 17:00. April - October 31 Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Admission 20kn.
Stradun, Placa B/C-2, . When talking about finding
your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to
Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the
Phil Newman
unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two
main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and
Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada,
meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the
uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the
best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump
into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress
up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks
the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts
of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land
south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock,
since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came
Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably
been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it
was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees
from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the
land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement
was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The
channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating
Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build
the city walls.
The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3,
Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is
perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting
four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local
artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show.
A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a
fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by
Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor
of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to
the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old
Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting
for some of the most important events of the life of the
city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the
Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a
concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision
contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages
can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00,
16:00 - 18:00. No admission.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

St Blaise
How close St Blaise is to
the people of Dubrovnik
is shown by the number of
times he appears in reliefs
and sculptures in the city,
and by the celebrations on
his feast day, February 3,
when a grand procession
through town takes place,
followed by great merriment.
It is thought he was
Sandrine Quillien
adopted as the city’s saint
protector in 971 after appearing in a vision warning of
an attack by the Venetians.
St Blaise came from Armenia, he was a healer, and legend
has it that sick animals came to him but would never
disturb his prayers. He was persecuted as a Christian,
and in prison still practised medicine, saving a child from
choking on a fishbone.
That’s why he is the patron saint of ailments of the
throat, and on his feast day peoples’ throats are still
blessed with two entwined candles. He was thrown in a
lake, and stood on the water waiting for his persecutors
to come out to him – they drowned. When he came back
to dry land, his flesh was torn with wool combs and he
was beheaded.
The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates
(Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile,
Vrata od Ploča) , www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost
two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among
the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and
a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were
built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that
on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows
their primary purpose as defence against attack from the
mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example,
lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened
by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached -
the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies
were invited in on condition that they would respect its
independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east
and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town,
provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for
concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac
is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with
traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under
the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to
Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time
used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland
with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot.
The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized
battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s
fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart
from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and
character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces.
From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone
bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled
with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll
see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. Q December -
March 31 Open 09:00 - 15:00. April - May 31 09:00 - 18:30.
Admission 30 - 70kn.
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The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and
the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara
apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32
14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.hr.
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an
absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes,
and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange
trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy,
among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working.
The monastery houses a museum where you can see original
items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with
precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical
notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of
the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the
Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height.
The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real
man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and
19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.
The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom
3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. One of the loveliest buildings
in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the
Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just
one month confining him to these quarters which he could only
leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building
changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder
stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to
the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and
Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations
were added in baroque style in the 17th century following
the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio
della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in
gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly
romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade
with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful
courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace
is now a museum where you can view the richly appointed
offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom
and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of
the period are all on display. Q November 3 - March 21 Open
09:00 - 16:00. March 22 - November 2 Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Admission 20 - 40kn.
Museums Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac)
Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20)
47 86 46, muzej@kuca-bukovac.hr,
www.kuca-bukovac.hr. See works by
Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922), one of the
most famous modern Croatian painters,
in the setting of his charming Cavtat
home. Part of the house is devoted to
exhibitions of works by young artists,
offering an invigorating counterpoint. Q November - April 30
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00,
Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn.
Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni
muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.
Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872
when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with
a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the
private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac.
The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not
appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot
too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for
hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions which
currently include photography by the Croatian Biospeliological
Sociaty of the cave life of the Dubrovnik region. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
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32 whAt to see
Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej
Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe”
is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in
this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported
grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating
building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic,
cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk
costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region
where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 20 - 40kn.
Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John’s
fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04.
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the
growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s
most important museums. The display of models of the
fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy
tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were
used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the
Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is
housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.
QDecember - March 21 Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
March 22 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 20 - 40kn.
Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene
povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. (+385-
20) 32 48 56. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering
documentation on contemporary history since World War
Two, including memoirs and photography. From time to time
you can see all their exhibitions in the Rector’s Palace. The
museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional
exhibitions.
The Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)
B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 41,
arheoloski.muzej@dumus.hr. The Archeological museum
currently does not have a permanent residence, and some
of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see
objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the
Old Town, including fragments of early Romanesque churches
featuring the attractive plaitwork typical of Dalmatia. A
prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the
Pelješac peninsula. The museum doesn’t have a permanent
display but occasional exhibitions.
The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)
B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32
32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic
town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only
became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature
after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His
many exploits included sending a series of letters to the
Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing
the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by
elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and
he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance
literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ
exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly
Phil Newman
performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. QOpen 09:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.
The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i
židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352,
the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum
are set in a building which could be reached from within the
surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A
permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of
the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain.
The community flourished and included respected doctors,
merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik
enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions
on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue
is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly
painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable
menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the
history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q December
- April 30 Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May 1 - 31
Open 10:00 - 15:00. Admission 20kn.
Churches
Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help
over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you.
That’s why they engaged in building so many churches. Here
are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.
Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of
Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)
B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this
pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks
like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was
probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in
the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent
here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains
household objects they used in order to support their order
(e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks,
including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one
time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was
especially venerated at Christmas time. Q Open on request
and by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn.
The Sivi soko viewpoint
Return home by bragging to friends some of the best
photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your
camera and go go go! Jump onto the old road, the so
called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport
and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a
local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica
Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your
last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then
take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have
breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the
neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the
photo and those special moments!
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Winter 2011/2012
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34 whAt to see
Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons
(Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,
tel. (+385- 20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church
was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive
wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly
Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive
collection should head for the museum on the second floor of
the building next door. Q Church: December - Easter Open
08:00 - 17:30, Easter - May 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Museum: December - April 30 Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. May 1 - 31 Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Church
Admission free. Museum Admission 5 - 10kn.
St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4,
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00.
Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the
southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit
church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque
staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome
(1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725
by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of
the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother
church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front
of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer
Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the
adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a
particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of
the city.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)
C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now
houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest
parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St
Katherine.
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2,
Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was
originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for
early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was
added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an
Anna Nozdracheva
interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter,
which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting
of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.
St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)
D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by
the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint
protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of
the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone
steps and balustrade.
Dubrovnik Cable Car
Dubrovnik Cable Car, tel. (+385-20) 32 53
93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www.
dubrovnikcablecar.com. Travel in style to the peak
of Mount Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778
meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the
Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces
equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a
panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The
lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir
Street . Ticket sales at the lower cable car station in town
(opposite the fire station), from Restaurant Panorama
at the top of Mount Srđ, or from Restaurant Dubravka
close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by
credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and
souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro. Adults 50 -
80kn, Children 25 - 40kn. December - January 31. Open
09:00 - 16:00. February - March 31. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
April - May 31. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Lower station: Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20)
32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www.
dubrovnikcablecar.com.QDecember - January 31
Open 09:00 - 16:00. February - March 31 Open 09:00 -
17:00. April - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. 25 - 80kn.
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The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3/4, Držićeva poljana,
tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96.
The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies
the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure
Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way
you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter
of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the
Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects
Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of
an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed
in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another
earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in
fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th
or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous
for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St
Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and
foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the
11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption
by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass:
07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. Q December -
Easter Open 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 12:00.
Easter - November 30 Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.
Landmarks
Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3,
This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing
in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman
and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary
Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was
erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home
city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers.
The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and
homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.
Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i
mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska
Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular
sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile
Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central
dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps
around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for
tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct
that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built
from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the
first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.
Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with
a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake
and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little
masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near
the tower at the other end of Stradun.
Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom.
In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and
legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility.
The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag
of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic.
Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s
enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the
marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of
the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned
to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s
right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional
Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or
lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient
measure near the bottom of the sculpture.
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Revelin Fortress
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Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik,
it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground
floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first
floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.
The exhibit Sculptures from the Middle Ages is
linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this
Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was
made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars,
fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic
and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been
gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and
it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th
century. The second exhibit Archaeological research
and foundry workers present how the very building
you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th
and 16th century construction as well as findings such
as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses
of different stone masons and foundry men. Any publicconstruction
in the city at the time was put on halt to
accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential
Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new
age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens
allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through
summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral,
flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the
ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some
of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are
an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage. Q
Admission to all the exhibits aforementioned costs 20kn
which includes access to the fortress terrace.
Đurovića Cave - Skycellar
Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi
So your plane lands and minutes later you find yourself in
a cave! Yes, it is true! Just beneath the Dubrovnik Airport,
there is a cave that stretches 200 meters in length and is
a fast growing attraction. Audio guides in English, Russian
and Croatian will take you through this adventure where
Mother Nature has for centuries been working her magic.
As a memento of your visit, the aptly named Skycellar
offers a vast range of authentic wines from this region
as well as genuine souvenirs. Q October - February 28
Open by prior arrangement. March - September 30 Open
10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 50kn.
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36 whAt to see
The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)
D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that
crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of
two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two
older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green
color is a result of their copper composition rather than their
roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the
green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents
of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original
part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was
destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes
and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for
casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John
the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst
centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.
The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica
i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South
of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a
remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal,
with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here,
galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a
place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating
throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating
overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers
of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The
buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine
sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians
gathered there on a warm evening.
The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3, Dubrovnik
owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that
the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the
4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by
the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town
now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount
Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the
maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman
Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying
the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties
with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to
establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built
in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates
and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik
grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state,
Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the
merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding
was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka,
a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional
quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can
see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered
harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now
the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles
from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a
good meal.
The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5, Just past the Ploče gates
is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the
courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine
houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings
were usually destroyed when the need for them passed,
Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe.
The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’
workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the
venue for concerts and DJ parties.
The Siege of Dubrovnik
26 June 1991 Croatia declares its independence from
Yugoslavia.
August 1991 A low-intensity conflict between Croats
and Serbs quickly escalates into all-out war. Dubrovnik,
with its largely Croatian population and minor strategic
importance, is only lightly defended.
1 October 1991 Serbian military planners decide that
an attack on Dubrovnik will weaken Croatian morale. The
JNA (Yugoslav Peoples’ Army), supported by volunteers
from Serbia, Eastern Herzegovina and Montenegro,
begins its assault.
5 October 1991 The JNA captures the resort of Slano
north of Dubrovnik, cutting the city off from the rest of
Croatia. Over 50,000 civilians and refugees are trapped
inside the city.
22 October 1991 The holiday resorts of Cavtat, Mlini
and Kupari are overrun by the JNA.
23 October 1991 Dubrovnik’s Old Town suffers its first
major artillery bombardment.
25 October 1991 The JNA and its allies take the high
ground overlooking the city. Defenders fall back on Fort
Imperial, the Napoleonic-era strongpoint at the summit
of Mt Srd.
6 December 1991 Dubrovnik is subjected to the siege’s
most intensive day of shelling. A major enemy assault on
Fort Imperial is thrown back following stiff resistance.
January 1992 A UN-sponsored cease-fire comes into
effect.
July 1992 A month-long operation led by Croatian
General Janko Bobetko wins back control of the coastal
highway, ending the land blockade of the city.
20 October 1992 Croatian troops liberate Cavtat.
August 1995 Hostilities come to an end after Croatian
victories in central Croatia.
The aftermath According to current Croatian statistics,
the attack on Dubrovnik cost the lives of 193 defenders
and just over 100 civilians. In the territories occupied by
enemy forces, hotels and private houses were systematically
ransacked. In Dubrovnik’s Old Town, a total of
824 buildings (68% of the total) had taken a hit of one
kind or another. Renovation and repair was a long and
painstaking business, as the shell-scarred masonry and
roof tiles of the Old Town could only be replaced with
carefully-sourced equivalents.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Adventure & Travel
ATV Quad Safari Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)
098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr.
Vroom! Vroom! Pick up your helmet, get behind the wheel and
prepare yourself for some major dirt filled action. Four wheeler
(All Terrain Vehicles) are the form of transport as you cross
rivers and drive across different terrain along the Konavle
mainland. You are picked up at your place of stay and taken
to the Kojan Konavle Koral Estate, there you are instructed on
procedures and then the true adventure begins! Intended for
groups of 7 - 14 people and it is 500 - 600kuna per person.
Q Open by prior arrangement.
Climbing - Prevlaka Nature Park Prevlaka, tel.
(+385-20) 79 15 55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www.
prevlaka.hr. This park offers loads for active souls - choose
between biking, canoing or wandering the tunnels. If you’re
hungry you can have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot
take a dip in the clean sea. Entry 15kn. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Cycling For those seeking more of an active holiday and
are keen on seeing more than the city itself, why not choose
from the 60km of cycling roads and tracks that are available
throughout the Konavle area. Bicycles can be hired at tourist
agencies (look in our Getting Around section) where you can
also get detailed instructions and road maps. In case you
are already near Konavle itself, contact the Konavle Tourist
Association for more information. Theme routes:
Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi (starting point Cavtat - Bus Station)/
Cavtat-Zvekovica-Miljasi (starting point Cavtat - Bus
Station)/ Čilipi-Gruda-Ljuta-Pridvorje (starting point Čilipi -
Main square).
Excursions on the Neretva boats Step back in time
as you paddle in traditional Neretva vessels along the Delta
of the Neretva River. You will pass through areas where the
ancient Greeks, Illyrians and Romans used to sail, not to
mention the pirates of this region that were known to attack
their enemies from such positions. Dig in to the traditional
gastronomic specialties including ‘Neretva Brudet’, a type of
stew made from frog and eels. When back on the mainland,
you can visit the Ornithological Collection in Metković and the
archeological site of the ancient Narona. For more information,
please contact: Restaurant Lopoč, tel. (+385-20) 69 30
34, www.restaurant-lopoc.com; Restaurant Adria, tel.
(+385-) 099 388 99 99; Konoba Narona, tel. (+385-) 098
32 37 49.
Hiking Get a taste of the fresh outdoors on foot! Visitors
who prefer walking can investigate Konavle by strolling down
the nicely decorated pathways which lead you to unique
beaches along the Konavle rocks known only to locals. For
more information, contact the Konavle Tourist Association.
Paths: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi/Čilipi-Radovčići/The “Ronald
Brown” Path
Horse riding - Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda,
tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.
kojankoral.hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour
ride in the Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and
moron-proof instructions are provided. Q Open by prior
arrangement.
Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira
bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@
gmail.com. You need to call for an appointment a day
earlier. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll
pay 100kn. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
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dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Cooking
interACtive
Hilton’s School of Cooking K-3, Marijana Blažića 2,
(Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik) tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20,
www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Love your cooking! Then look
no further and join likeminded food admirers who are taken
through a two day course (once a month) that delves into
the serving of the table, decorating food, the content of
food, decanting wine and that is just the beginning. Hotel
Chef Christopher Gauci takes you on a ride that will tickle
your taste buds.QThe cost of the course is 450kuna per
person and includes a two day cooking course, cook book,
final dinner with 4 to 5 courses and quality wine, as well as
free parking.
Workshops
Easter Ea s ter e g gs are
decorated with delicate motifs in
beeswax, coloured with onion skin
or pine (a process locally known
as “penganje”). The result was
an ornament to be given as a mark
of love, friendship and devotion.
On Palm Sunday people carry
olive branches or intricately woven
ornaments made from palms leaves. You can learn how to
make these decorations yourself at the Easter workshops.
Workshops are held one week before Easter.
Info: Deša L-2, Frana Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20)
42 01 45. Q Workshops are free.
Silk If you are in town at the end of May, discover the process
of growing silk with a special presentation of the pilling of silk
yarns out from a cocoon. Info: Deša L-2, Frana Supila 8,
Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45, www.desa-dubrovnik.
hr. AR Atelier, Gruda 49, Gruda - Konavle, tel. (+385-20)
79 13 55, 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com
Weaving Partake in one tradition
that is ever so prevalent here. Learn
how to make weaved products with
customary patterns. Workshops
are free and throughout the year,
Monday to Friday.
Info: Deša L-2, Frana Supila
8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20) 42
01 45.
Xmas Get into the spirit of Christmas and learn about the
local customs of the Holy Season between December 12
and 16. Whilst there, get practical and learn how to make
Christmas jewellery or wreaths, dabble in making delicacies
and much more.
Info: Deša L-2, Frane Supila 8, Lazareti, tel. (+385-20)
42 01 45. Q Workshops are free.
Winter 2011/2012
37

38 MAiL & phones
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re
right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it
on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow
boxes attached to buildings around town.
Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36
20 68. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Lapad G-2, Miljenka Bratoša 21, tel. (+385-20) 41 26
74. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Pile J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 2, tel. (+385-20)
41 12 65. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Stari grad B-2, Široka 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 27.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Express mail
City Ex I-2, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 18 00/
(+385-) 0800 303 333, dubrovnik@cityex.hr, www.cityex.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
DHL L-2, Frana Supila 12 (Hotel Excelsior), tel. (+385-1)
665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Public telephone
You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at
any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50
and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone
cards which give you substantial discounts when calling
abroad.
Internet places
Hugo 1 B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 69/
(+385-) 091 211 11 66. Internet, playstation and PC games,
burning photos, scanning and printing. Ring home for cheap
too! (7kn/15min, half an hour 10kn and 20kn/1h.) QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn
Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn
Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25,
netcafe_dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A
sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 10kn/15min
surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect your laptop.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PNB
Snoopy I-2, Bana Jelačića 33, tel. (+385-20) 31 22
74, ravosium@du.t-com.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
14:00 - 21:00. 30kn/hour.
Making the call
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local
Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit
number, and place the receiver to your ear. National
Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling
Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s
number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access
code), the appropriate country code, a city or area
code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling
Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access
code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping
the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a
Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with
either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s
number and wait for a human voice. For an international
call to a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess
code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the
remaining digits.
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most
everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent
growths that have attached themselves to ears or
cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting
tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock
that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems
that churches and cinemas remain the only structures
holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation
in this central European location. The networks
that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2
(095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the
place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top
up at a cash machine.
SIM Cards
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.
They all have numerous selling points throughout
the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for
you.
T-Centar I-2, Starčevićeva 47, tel. (+385-) 0800
1550, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Tele 2 Centar H/I-2, Nikole Tesle 2 (TC Minčeta),
tel. (+385-20) 35 65 89, www.tele2.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Vip Centar L-2, Frana Supila 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77
00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Public transport
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray,
freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean
they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour
with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take
you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac
in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no
English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city
for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city
cost 10kn from news kiosks (12kn from the driver) and
must be cancelled in the ticket-stamping machines
immediately on boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a
little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs
17kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver.
www.libertasdubrovnik.hr
Taxi
The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call
0800 09 70 or 0800 14 41 otherwise you’ll find them
on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station,
Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements,
25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item
and 80kn per hour for waiting.
Train
Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve
Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train,
travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such
as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would
probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour odyssey and travel to
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
getting Around
Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the
Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you
can take the sleeper.
Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading
their car on a night train at 22:55 (149.04kn - 213.04kn,
plus the price of a passenger ticket) travelling to Split and
then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-Split
motorway has reduced journey times to about 5 hours (traffic
permitting), many people choose to drive or take the coach.
A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-Osijek-Budapest
route, which takes the best part of 17 hours.
Long distance coaches
Since there’s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long distance
coach has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia
and abroad. There are frequent services to almost all
Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head
for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities
in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and
cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading
for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may
save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey!
Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala
pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.
libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:00 - 21:30.
Car rental
Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43
70 66/(+385-) 098 34 49 64, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr,
www.adriarent.hr. You can also rent a scooter. QOpen
08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Avis - Budget H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1 (Port
terminal), tel. (+385-20) 31 36 33/(+385-) 091 314
30 10, dubrovnik.dt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.com.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Winter 2011/2012
39

40 getting Around
Dollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-
20) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@
subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. A
Hertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/
(+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www.
hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel:
(+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Parking
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes
to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors
driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding
a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multistorey
car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica bb,
K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the
west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park
to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile lying a
mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need
it. Parking costs 5 - 30kn/hour or 85 - 360kn/day
depending which zone you’re in and the season.
Text message parking . Croatia was the first ever
country to introduce payment by text message for
street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see
which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of
your car as a text message (no spaces, no special
characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment
is confirmed when you get a message back from
them. Different zones have different max waiting times
and prices.
Airport
Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi,
Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 33 33/(+385-20) 77 32 22,
www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets
for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get
around the country by plane. There are a limited number of
tickets selling for rock bottom prices - a single to Zagreb can
cost as little as 340kn, but you must reserve your ticket well in
advance - or strike it lucky - to get these. International flights
are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget
airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See
the airline websites for reservations.
Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station,
tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check
with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car
there’s a long stay car park (the first 15min parking is free
of charge, anything over 15min and up to 24hours will cost
between 5 - 40kn. Parking beyond 24 hours thereafter is
2kuna per hour. In case you do lose your parking ticket, a
300kn payment is required).
www.inyourpocket.com
Bike rental
Teuta Trumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47
97 86/(+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz,
www.cavtat.biz. Q March - April 30 Open 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. 25kn/
hour, 70kn/day. A
Airline offices
Croatia Airlines Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Čilipi, tel.
(+385-20) 77 32 32, dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Ferry
G&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19,
gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. Tickets can be bought
in Gruž Harbour from the Jadrolinija kiosk at least one hour
before departure. The kiosk closes one hour before the boat
sails. Q 20 - 50kn per person.
Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41
80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 06:30 - 07:00, 08:00
- 16:30, 19:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu Open 08:00 - 16:30, 19:00
- 20:00, Sun Open 08:00 - 09:30, 17:30 - 18:30. One way
ticket is 19kn per person.
Port authority
Dubrovnik Port Authority H-1, Obala pape Ivana
Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 33, padubrovnik@
portdubrovnik.hr, www.portdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Towed away
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might
come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in
Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad). Most of the year
it’s open 24 hours and from December till February from
07:00 - 23:00. The bad news is you’ll have to pay a charge of
500kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 700kn. Let’s
face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English
and accept payment by credit card.
Sanitat Dubrovnik, Lazareti bb, tel. (+385-20) 33
10 16, 42 88 58, info@sanitatdubrovnik.hr, www.
sanitatdubrovnik.hr
Transfers
Avantgarde Service H-1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 41
74 99/(+385-) 098 925 23 93, info@dubrovnik-transferi.
com, www.dubrovnik-transferi.com. Transport at its best!
Whether you are on a business trip, sightseeing, or wish to
do a tour, Avantgarde Services will accommodate all your
needs. Choose from high quality limousines, a VIP van for
delegations or taxi services at competitive rates, they have
it all. From a one off trip to assisting in corporate events,
everything can be catered for. Have your own chauffeur at
your very doorstep and with the utmost professional service!
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Travel Agencies
Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00,
elite@elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding
to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Gulliver travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.
(+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.
hr. Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers...
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Lux travel Stjepana Radića 86, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20)
47 99 38/(+385-) 099 980 90 17, tanja@luxtravel.hr,
www.luxtravel.hr. Hiking, religious city tour, tailored tours...
Q Open by prior arrangement.
Road help 1987
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Art galleries
AR Atelier 2 C-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32
17 21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, aruskovic@inet.hr, www.
antoniaruskovic.com. A rich offer of unique and authentic
souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well
as objects with Konavle embroidery. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. A
Artur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/
(+385-) 098 28 53 98. A fantastic selection of high quality
local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during
whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A
Dubrovnik Contemporary C-2, Boškovićeva 5, tel.
(+385-20) 32 20 31, dubrovnik.contemporary@gmail.
com, www.dubrovnikcontemporary.com. Modern and
authentic imprints of works made by the artist Selma
Hafizović. Oh… and fans of abstract art, to put it simply, we
warmly recommend. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00. A
Homa Gallery C-2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834
05 73. A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter
Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your
artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city
of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration. Open
from March. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. N
Klarisa Gallery C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099
243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Hidden on
the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the
true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with
paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular
Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures
and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-)
091 484 49 46/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romanamilutin.com,
www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract
pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. April - May 31 Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A
Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, cimic.
art.gallery@du.t-com.hr. On Stradun (oddly enough), close
to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner’s
passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters
along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. A
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Croatian Designer Anita Štulec
shopping
Croatian Designer Ruža Hodak
Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32
93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr.
Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian
artists for sale. Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice
café next door. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 13:30.
Closed Sun. A
Workshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel.
(+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu.
Closed December 24 - January 7. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
English books & newspapers
Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 44, www.
algoritam.hr. Books, magazines, newspapers, maps in many
languages. Q Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun
10:00 - 14:00. A
Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-) 099 706 13 26.
Lots of newspapers and magazines in different languages.
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00.
Souvenirs
Baboon I-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33
17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.
com. Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.
Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Bačan Handmade Products D-2, Prijeko 6, tel.
(+385-20) 32 11 21. Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with
national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated
with Konavle embroidery on sale. Q December - February 29
Open 09:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. March - May 31 Open 09:30 - 15:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sun
09:30 - 15:30. Closed January. N
Winter 2011/2012
41

42 shopping
Ivo Biočina - decorative sculptors workshop D-2,
Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. A small
sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy
crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat
of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of
stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!
Closed January. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/
(+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@medusa.hr, www.medusa.
hr. Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the
predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants.
Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including
olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing
island of Krapanj. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. March - May 31
Open 09:00 - 20:00. A
Museum shop D-3, Pred dvorom 3, (Rector’s Palace)
tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector’s Palace is where
guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more
exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. A
Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/
(+385-) 098 82 04 16, ronchi.dubrovnik@yahoo.com,
www.dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat
but don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a
milliners established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats
using traditional methods. Closed February. Q Open 09:30 -
13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54. Original
Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and
more. Closed February. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
April, May Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Waxing lyrical, tel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@
vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com. Looking for
a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your
life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic
Art Go’den
wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles
as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models
are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and
creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka
won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the
Dubrovnik region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest
tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.
Accessories
Croata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30,
www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied
materials come together to make you look the pro. Find
the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on
the invention of the tie. Q December Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. January - March 31 Open
09:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. April Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. May Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A
Cosmetics
Drogerie Markt I-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-1)
362 60 87, www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr. The place to pick
up anything from shampoo to mascara. Also at Doc shopping
centre at Lapad. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Delicatessen
Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20)
32 20 92, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr. A treasure trove of local
culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards,
cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A
Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel.
(+385-20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.
franja.hr. A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other
kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q
Open 08:00 - 16:00. March Open 08:00 - 20:00. May Open
08:00 - 24:00. A
Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.
kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known
and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut
sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A
Oleoteka Uje C-2, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15
32, www.uje.hr. Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that
offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the
island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of
Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles! QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. A
Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17
77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top
quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. A
Designer Clothing
Croatian Designers Room C-3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-
20) 41 22 99. Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look
no further, this is the ‘be all end all’ of Croatian mainstream
fashion with great choices of clothes made by the most
famous Croatian designers, all found in the one place.
Closed December - February 29.Q Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Maria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30,
info@maria-dubrovnik.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. If you
forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney
shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

shopping
Dubrovnik, Gundulićeva poljana 1, Zagreb, Gundulićeva 19 / Masarykova 17.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2011/2012
43

44 shopping
stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal
measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous
just looking through the window. Q December - February
29 Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. March - May 31 Open
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Max Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20)
32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda.hr. Sharp lines, muted
colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t
miss either way. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Modni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12
41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed
with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items
are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey
but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
XD Xenia Design G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos
Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11
17, xenia-design@ck.t-com.hr, www.xenia-design.hr.
Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and
personality. Also at Radisson Blue Resort and Croatia Hotel
in Cavtat. Q December, May Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. January - April 30 Open Mon, Wen, Fri
09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. A
Antiques
Heritage Shop L-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-)
098 20 91 50. A small store exquisitely decorated in the
spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local
and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and
you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities
and useful items dedicated to Croatian history,
the ancient times right through to the present. Q Open
09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. Closed February, March. A
Duty Free Shop
Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. One of the perks of
travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik
Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products
you see at similar stores, the exception here is the
traditional Croatian products and gift packages which
will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have
to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first
international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the
last designated flight.
Tax free heaven
Save money when you buy
souvenirs and other stuff
to take back home. Look
for the “Tax Free” label
on shop windows, or ask
at the counter. When you
buy goods totalling 500kn
or more, they’ll give you a
form. Get it stamped when
you leave the country, and
you’re entitled to a tax refund
– follow the instructions on the form.
Jewellery
Atelier Secret C-2, Kunićeva 2. The jewelry from this
place has ‘authentic’ written all over it. The wide range of
unique necklaces, bracelets and earrings are all locally made
and there is just about something for everyone. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Križek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27,
www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths
was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of
modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl,
and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Trinity C-2, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 50/
(+385-) 098 45 18 40. Experience the exclusive jewellery
designs of Max Škledar whose unique works can be found in
prestigious Beverly Hill boutiques not to mention numerous
other galleries across the world. Škledar is a designer who
tries to preserve the original shape of his materials with his
craftsmanship, thus maintaining their original beauty. It’s
contemporary, it’s dynamic and it’s absolutely worth a visit.
Open from March 31. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Davor Šuk
Nautical supplies
Lalizas Marina Na skali 4, Komolac, ACI Marina, tel.
(+385-20) 45 40 73, penul@penul.hr. Q Open 08:00 -
16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. February - May 31
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed. Sun. A
Top Marine I-2, Nikole Tesle 2, Minčeta department
store, tel. (+385-20) 35 70 17, bozo.svetac@du.t-com.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
A
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

shopping
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LINDA FARROW LUXE, NOIS, RED LINE, STEIDL, TASCHEN, FLAMMARION, SKIRA
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www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2011/2012
45

46 business direCtorY
Banks & Exchanges
Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-2, Vukovarska 26,
tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free
info, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-
20) 32 24 44, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Also at I-2, Obala
Stjepana Radića 26a, tel. 32 54 80. Open 08:00 - 14:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
OTP banka I-2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 062 20
12 00, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel.
062 20 13 17. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. (+385-20)
72 01 00, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Raiffeisen bank I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20)
32 05 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30
- 12:30. Closed Sun.
Volksbank I-2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89
00, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.
Zagrebačka banka I-2, Vukovarska 7, tel. (+385-20)
32 25 07, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb,
tel. 32 25 52, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun.
Business Connections
American College of Managemet and Technology
J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00,
american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County
Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20
99, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Consulates
Belgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43
81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Denmark I-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33
35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel),
tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, consolatoitaliano@net.hr.
Q Open by arrangement.
Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57.
Q Open by prior arrangement.
The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-
20) 35 61 41, ajerkovic@atlant.hr. QOpen Tue, Fri
10:00 - 12:00.
UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97,
honcons.dubrovnik@inet.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Wed, Sat, Sun.
Real estate
Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel.
(+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28
82 54, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.dubrovnikproperties.info.
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun.
Pro Krečak J-4, Put Republike 12, tel. (+385-20)
43 66 02, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Call the experts
Ana’s Studio K-3, U Pilama 5, tel. (+385-20) 41 65
15, gigidbk@yahoo.com. Cosmetic treatments, nail art,
hair cuts, body painting. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N
Beautyline K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 1, tel. (+385-
20) 42 30 81, kozmetickisalon.beautyline@gmail.com.
Beauty centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Zrinka H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 62
32, salon2@frizerzrinka.com, www.frizerzrinka.com.
Hair studio. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Culture Centres
Art Workshop Lazareti D-4, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-
20) 32 46 33/(+385-) 091 186 12 50, arl@du.t-com.hr,
www.arl.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
L’Alliance Francaise J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 4, tel.
(+385-20) 32 63 53/(+385-) 092 285 76 84, afd@caas.
unizg.hr, www.afd.hr. QOpen Tue, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.
Dry cleaners & Laundries
Amo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33
33 47/(+385-) 098 964 49 20, 099 501 63 02. QOpen
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098
42 86 71/(+385-) 098 915 99 22. Dry cleaners. QOpen
07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette E-1, Put od Bosanke 2
(outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@
dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com.
Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon
request. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10
kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg) and Drop-off service - 100kn
(wash, dry, fold). QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18.
Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Open Tue, Thu, Sat 07:00 -
14:00 and by request. N
Hospital
General Hospital H-3, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. (+385-20)
431 777, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.hr.
Making friends
The Dubrovnik Foreign Circle
www.dubrovnikforeigncircle.com. A great local
organisation that works on giving back to the community.
Various social activities and gatherings are held and new
comers to the city are particularly made welcome with the
aim of building networks, establishing friendships and more.
So come along!
Marinas
ACI Marina Dubrovnik Na Skali 2, Komolac, tel. (+385-
20) 45 50 20, m.dubrovnik@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.
hr. 450 berths, 110 places on land. Two restaurants, souvenir
shop, supermarket, mechanic, swimming pool, showers.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. A
ACI Marina Korčula Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71
16 61, m.korcula@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 144
berths, 16 on land. Restaurant, hairdresser, mechanic.
Staff speak foreign languages. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun
09:00 - 13:00. A
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
LiFestYLe direCtorY
Luka Porat - Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel.
(+385-20) 41 86 40, dpa.gruz@portdubrovnik.hr. QOpen
07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Pets
Bobanović I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 33, tel. (+385-20)
35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr.
Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24
39 38. From February they will be at a new location - Kneza
Domagoja 4, Lapad. Q Open 08:30 -12:00, 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr.
Veterinary clinic. For emergency call
098 191 26 94. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Pharmacies
Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by
either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .
Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41
89 90. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. A
Kod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Kod zvonika C-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Lapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Police station
Coast guard I-2, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-
20) 44 35 55, www.dubrovacko-neretvanska.policija.hr.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Police station I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. (+385-
20) 44 37 77/(+385-20) 44 70 00, www.mup.hr. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00.
Traffic police Vladimira Nazora 32, tel. (+385-20) 44 36
66/(+385-20) 44 36 39. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Emergency number 112
Emergency number 112 . In case of emergency
you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the
emergency services as below:
Police 192
Fire department 93
Ambulance 94
Coast guard 9155
Flower fair
April 2012
Pick up a posy of flowers at cut prices and enjoy the sights
and scents of colourful blooms and arrangements.
Fun for the whole family
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Winter 2011/2012
47

48 dubrovnik neretvA CountY
Korčula
Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is
a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the
clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.
Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns
which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich,
famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for
heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny,
almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one
of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic
towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs.
It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric
streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies
that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of
Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural
delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark
and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old
brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and
the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.
Frank Therond
All in all, it’s well worth a few day’s stay and a perfect place
to recharge your batteries. One of the other most prominent
features of the island is its folk tradition which includes
the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness
from time to time during the summer months, heralded by
drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume
passes through prior to the performance.
With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism
and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic
towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.
But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other
places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island,
the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from
any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village
of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must
try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and
said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall
of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel
miles and centuries away from everything else.
Tourist information
Korčula City Museum
i
Trg Sv.
Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gmkorcula@du.t-com.hr
QOpen 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Korčula Tourist Board Obala dr.
Franje Tuđmana 4, www.visitkorcula.
net.QDecember - March 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
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Dubravka Žaja
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Lastovo
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes
to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.
Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,
so access to the island was restricted. With not a great
deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has
been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an
untouched ecological paradise.
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else,
a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a
basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of
pirates. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for
the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very
detached from modern urban life.
Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the
wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s
chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital
aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional
pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from
Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes
centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide
on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at
its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during
summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume,
where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered
braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore
Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and
there is little accommodation with a few families offering
private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and
happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this
could well be the start of an enduring love affair.
Tourist information
Mljet
Sounds of Mljet
A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a
sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ...
the bray of a donkey. Silence.
Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more
remote and less developed islands, with limited ferry service,
it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian
coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the
place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One
might hope it never will be. A ferry connects the island with
the Pelješac Peninsula.
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this
island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.
Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3 km wide and 37
km long making it attractive to explore for a short or lengthier
stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131 km
of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so
you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest
tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy
to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
dubrovnik neretvA CountY
Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel.
(+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59
90 07, www.lastovo.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets
as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply
above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering
ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite
an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic
weather, recreational sports, hiking and bicycle paths are
only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The
western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park
since 1960.
The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of
the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey)
because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek
settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising
nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).
The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century
BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and
settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The
best preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above
the Veliko Jezero, and the fort of Vodica near Babino Polje.
The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century
BC to the 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians
in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the
western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most
notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman
ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic
coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th
Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence
in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley
and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained
on the western end of the island for about another 300 years,
until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ,
between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including
mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and
arrows, was discovered in 1938.
In 1151, Prince Desa of Zahumlje donated the entire island
of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from
Apulia. The arrival saw the construction of a church and
grand monastery of the Benedictines (1177-1198) on the
islet in Veliko Jezero.
Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired the Pelješac
Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This
changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent
of Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held the island until the
dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808.
Getting There and Around
Transportation to the island is provided by Jadrolinija ferry
from Pelješac. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of
Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There
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are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and
main port of call in the north. Other harbours include Okuklje,
Luka Prožura, Sobra, Kozarica and Pomena (which has daily
connections to Dubrovnik. Watch out for reefs and shallow
water. At Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw
anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.
N
0 500 1000 1500
1 : 50 000
MLJET
Hr Šij
Crna seka
Pomeštak
Hr Štit
Glavat
Crna seka
Pomena
Maslinovac
Goveđari
Pristanište
V. Jezero
Iryna Khotenko
Adrien Therond
What to See
National Park Mljet (Nacionalni Park Mljet)
Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. 74 40 41, np-mljet@
np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.
Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The
park encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end
of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty.
Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake),
and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and
Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this
park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect
the native eco-system in the Adriatic.
Polače
Tajnik
Soline
Moračnik
Ovrata
Kobrava
Vanji školj
The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo
Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-metre-long
channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko
Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to
power mills during the Middle Ages, switches direction every
six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer
path which circumnavigates the lakes, and other paths wind
up and over the hills. It’s OK to swim or paddle in the lake, but
scuba diving and motor boats are not permitted.
The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers,
steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and
most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant of
Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used for
farming or herding. Nevertheless, a 1917 fire took out many
of the deciduous forests.
Tickets to the park cost 40 - 90 kn and during the winter
you should call prior coming for the ferry to be organised to
St Mary Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero, where you will
find the Benedictine monastery.
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary
(Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of
Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a time,
the monastery was the island’s governmental centre.
Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in
autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and
peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th
Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque
church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198.
In the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal
lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture
and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over
the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs
of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance
features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church
portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure
of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added
during the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1809, during the rule
of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian
Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until
1941. In 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given
back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the
church’s inauguration.
The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a
restaurant in the monastery cellars (during summer), the
buildings are unoccupied. The island is small but offers a
pleasant walk past two chapels. You can close your eyes for
a moment and imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding,
and feeding in the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown.
Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant
Roman palace and fortifications – one tower is 20m high --
built between the 2nd and the 5th centuries. Second in size
Kozarica
Polje
Slatina Svinjac
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Hr Kula
Dugo polje
Blatina
Spilja
B latsko polje
Crkvište
Ropa
Roparsko polje
BLATO
Lazove laze Podlaze
Uzdolačje
Dubovca
M l j e t s k i k a
Žanjevac
Sv. Mihajlo
Lokve
Hripe
Zasad Podvršje
P ropadi
Dočić
D
Glog

n a l
račevac
ovac
Zabriježe Ocinje
Frank Therond
to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: the road
to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists
have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas west of
the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s
economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey,
meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will
take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right
and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort.
A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the
highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views
over the lakes and the Adriatic.
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the
National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,
built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living
among charming thick alpine woodlands and working in
agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect
for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy
the hotel’s amenities.
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century
when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino
Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to
work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).
Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically
interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,
serenity and lush vegetation.
Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located
on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It
offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary.
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre
of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and
a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is
surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees
and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the
island. There are also a high per-capita number of churches:
Pajac
B a b i n o P o l j e
Sv. Spasitelj
Zakršće
Lokve
Sršenovići Zadublje
Sv. Andrija
Hajdići
Andričević
Odisejeva spilja Sv. Vlaho Sv. Ivan Karaula
Brak Duboka
Sobra
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Zaglavci
Veja njiva Lisovac
Brnjestrovac
St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George, St Blaise, St
Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of Mercy. The three
oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches of St Andrew, St
Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in the 11th Century.
You can reach the church, and neighbouring St Blaise, by way
of an unmarked turnoff below the town. When you turn in, the
road immediately forks; take the sharp right, which bends
again to head straight into the valley. On the left among the
olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey Renaissance manor
of the Ragusan governor of the island. Clustered around the
village cemetery are St Pancratius, the 15th Century Gothic
parish church of St Blaise, and the sotnica, a Renaissanceera
government building in whose courtyard the governor
sometimes issued judgments.
Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that
would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way
home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven
years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his
home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and
wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the
crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry
to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave, come back
Prožurski
Porat Okuklje
Sv. Trojstvo Prapatni
Sv. Nikola Djedovac
Prapatna
Sv. Roko
Sv. Ilija Sv. Vid
Goveđak
Zaplatačje Gospa
Glogovac
Grubanje
Maranovići
Polje
Struje
Sv. Antun Vinogradi
Prožura
Na Izvan
Kosmač
Hr
Seka od Lukovca Lukovac Prečki školj
Korita
Za brijeg
M. Golić Spilja
U. Benova
Hr. Mrkjente
Profundica
Podstrane
Žara
Pod Kućice
M. Školj
V. Školj
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another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel.
Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.
Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles
who – a bit like yourself – were looking for relaxing getaway.
Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the
sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three
beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church
of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the
Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s
Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque
bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477 by the
Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed the estate
in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured representations
of St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik), St Martin (the
patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the patron saint
of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived and worked in
a small monastery near the church. It’s partly ruined now;
along with the tower, it has been adapted for reuse as a
stable and storage.
The Church of St Martin and village graveyard are situated
on a bluff overlooking the village on one side and the island
road and Pelješac Channel on the other. A plaque on the 14th
Century porch thanks Jolanda Vecchietta, a teacher who
came to the island during the Italian occupation in World War
II, taught in the local school and fell in love with the island.
After the war she returned to Italy but later paid for the 1998
renovations to the church. St Martin’s day is celebrated on
November 11 with a mass in the church.
The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on another small
hill above the village. Costumed celebrations of St Rocco
(who was believed to have saved the village from the
plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was
the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston
from 1635 to 1652.
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Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish
church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church
and features Gothic architectural elements.
In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary
of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and
demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.
A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the
front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,”
that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a
distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses
have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own
17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita
is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that
are used to capture rainwater.
Tourist information
i
Tourist Board Mljet, Sobra bb tel.
74 60 25, fax 74 60 25, tz-mljet@
du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Sobra
office (around the side of the café at the
ferry pier).QDecember - March 31 Open
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. April -
May 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Board Goveđari (office actually in Polače),
tel. 74 41 86, fax 74 41 86. December - March 31
Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31
Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Did you know...?
All of the streets in Korčula’s Old Town have steps – except
one, which is called “The Street of Thoughts” as you
can stroll along it without worrying about tripping over!
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The Elafiti islands
Koločep, Lopud and Šipan These tiny islands - the first
two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the
sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the
peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation
is inexpensive.
Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them
quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud
just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance
of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built
their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone
villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud
is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the
golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less
than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the
islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance
across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old
park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea.
Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports,
Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny
hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip
through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully
grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and
carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and
the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the
Dubrovnik bishops.
Cavtat
Ancient Epidaurum The approach to this little gem
of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking
things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their
way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not
all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose
inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade
fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of
good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a
handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads
to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with
an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its
centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels
which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches
and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly
wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel
complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a
traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region,
famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on
your doorstep.
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house
(November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00,
Sun 14:00 - 17:00. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00,
16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn), where
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one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855
- 1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior
walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful
paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although
subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they
have been restored with some success, and the delightful
exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches
surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s
portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An
exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work
of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works,
a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the
house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole
experience is a rather uplifting one.
Konavle
The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with
Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one
of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings
(during summer) you can witness the traditional songs and
dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk
costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland
and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce
real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find
traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious
home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes
served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume
(see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you
can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond
orchards in bloom.
The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries
the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point
is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village
cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the
Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering
in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked
hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as
part of the deal.
The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that
it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few
settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals
looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is
a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus,
and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical
chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet
fishing village in a pretty cove.
The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia
and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have
views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain
ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone, so
don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used as a
realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts will
also be interested to see the islet which used to be an Italian
prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument
within the Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners
who died of hunger. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo,
an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you
can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.
Tourist information
Konavle district Tourist Board Zidine
6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25,
www.tzcavtat-konavle.hr. QDecember
- March 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun
08:00 - 14:00.
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Agritourism
Agroturizam Laptalo Gromača 56, Orašac, tel.
(+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098
72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr, www.laptalo-agro.
hr. Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača
you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year,
if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy home-made
dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the
family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet
specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and
mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).QOpen by
prior arrangement. IK
Konoba Vinica - Monković family Pridvorje,
Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 098 34 54
59, monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica.com.
Excellent option in the Konavle region south
of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run
the place may show you their collection of folk costumes
as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast
meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made
rakija would go down a treat too… Q Open by prior
arrangement. (50 - 110kn). PALB
Neretva
Neretva river delta - Orange groves and water life
If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to
see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk.
Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored,
inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with
good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate
gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern
fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and
impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in
Eugen Miljan - Konavle, Ljuta
Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the
sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking
work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes
called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you
can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins,
local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s
Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats,
used for transporting pretty much everything around here.
The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind
called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these
traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual
race which attracts competing teams from around the world
looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have
a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but
definitely renders their navigation a challenge! More curious
still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of
the area are often centred around two aquatic inhabitants,
the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole
called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant at Villa
Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation,
tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is
also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter
being traditional hunting game. Near the town of Ploče you can
see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain
of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate
one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable
for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed
a nature park in the near future.
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre of
Metković Tourist Board Stjepana
Radića 1, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68
10 20, www.neretva.info. QOpen 07:00
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
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Pelješac Peninsula
Oysters and wine The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously
connected with the mainland that it has the unique
character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is
the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon
dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality
oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best
cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled
by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including
forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous
countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These
walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable
salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often
called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout
and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt
for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and
victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular
conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali
grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of
Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is
an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the
first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).
It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac
experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is
another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”,
while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On
The Walls of Ston
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In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade
sights are more magnificent than the grizzled
fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only
a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications
was accessible to the public, but after a long period of
renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially
opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now
scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds
the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the
surrounding countryside.
The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of
Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Peljesac
peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against
potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well
worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to
become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped
to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.
Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by
modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes,
their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine
shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind
makes this a favourite spot for windsurfers, especially at
Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting
its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic
stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects
Orebić with Korčula town.
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will
hardly be long enough.
Tourist information
Orebić Tourist Board Zrinsko
Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20)
71 37 18, tz-orebic@tz-orebic.hr, www.
tz-orebic.com. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel.
(+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com.hr, www.
ston.hr. QDecember - March 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. April - May 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00,
16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
www.inyourpocket.com
Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac peninsula
to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers
and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest
stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe.
Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch
in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this
eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing
ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the
event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds
of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts
36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating
any further. As there is no door preventing access
to the walls, you can visit them at any time. Occasionally
you might come across someone selling tickets, which
cost 20 - 30kn, while kids under 18 go free.
Winter 2011/2012
55

56 dubrovnik neretvA CountY
Trsteno
Balm for the soul If you’re on the edge of your nerves and
even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time
to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree
hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked
who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for
gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centrepiece is
a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov
Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a
sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode
and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar.
More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola
Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.
Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by
local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing
gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people
have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A
sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t
miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.
East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by
the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the
sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view
encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical
splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of
the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum
– a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.
The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid
out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths,
a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer
garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern
sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus
a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered
quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which
broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and
it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall
trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy
the harmony of man and nature.
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with
a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.
Župa dubrovačka
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay
dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the
Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason
why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means
“Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so
beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named
after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by
streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right
on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be
named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness
of the swimmer in question.
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons
being that this part of the coast was occupied by the
Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is
all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal
situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry
lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront
empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently
going on and things will get better.
We highly recommend these resorts for the following
reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)
There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private
apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With
Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great
place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter
environment and clean beaches.
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find
necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks,
the post office and a large supermarket.
Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever
seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a
watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right
on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with
little villas nestled in leafy shade.
Tourist information
Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board
Šetalište dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, Srebreno,
Mlini, tel. (+385- 20) 48 62 54,
tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr., www.
dubrovnik-riviera.hrQ Open 08:00 -15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

The folk tradition
dubrovnik neretvA CountY
The people of Dubrovnik and the surrounding regions
proudly maintain their folk tradition, which you can still
see at festivals, folklore performances, and processions
on feast days; in museums and sometimes even on your
waiter in rural restaurants. Every region, and in some cases
every settlement had its own style of folk attire, which often
showed the social status of the wearer. So, for example,
in Konavle, where the tradition is perhaps strongest to
this day, unmarried girls wore red pillbox hats decorated
with gold braid, while married women wore stiffly starched
headscarves shaped like horns, to scare their menfolk into
submission, we presume.
The costumes, mainly in white, red and black fabrics, were
decorated with embroidery, particularly on decorative
fabric breastplates with gold silk tassels on women, and
waistcoats and cummerbunds on men. Silk was produced
and coloured at home. On special occasions, people wore
fine velvets and silks richly embroidered with gold thread, a
style influenced by Dubrovnik’s excellent trading links with
the nearby Ottoman Empire. Luxurious clothes indicated
the wealth of the owner, but rich folk lent fine clothes to
poorer neighbours to ensure a good celebration.
Jewellery has for centuries been a way for women in
particular to invest their wealth. Dubrovnik at its zenith,
had many goldsmiths and silversmiths who, in addition
to adorning the city’s churches and palaces also made
jewellery, an integral part of folk costume. You can still buy
traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, large hoops or
drop earrings adorned with baubles. If you’d like to take
home an original Dubrovnik souvenir, you can also find tiny
backstreet workshops where women produce tablecloths,
bags, purses, pictures, slippers and more embellished with
traditional embroidery.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
On your travels around the region, you can see many
more facets of folk culture. If you’re on Korčula island,
you may meet a procession of drummers in medieval
costume on their way to a performance of the traditional
Moreška sword dance (performed across the region in
high summer). And if you’re lucky enough to be on distant
Lastovo in the two days before Ash Wednesday, you’ll
see the Poklad festival, eagerly awaited every year by the
islanders, and a riot of fun, celebrating the salvation of the
island from attack by Catalan pirates in 1483. The men
dress in scarlet traditional costumes with embroidered
sashes and hats decked with more flowers than Ladies
Day at Ascot – a truly unique experience!
Linđo
The folk tradition is very much connected with music
and dance. During the Dubrovnik Summer Festival you
will surely have the chance to see Linđo, Dubrovnik’s
foremost folk troupe, going strong since 1964. The
region’s folk music is centred around a one-stringed
instrument called a Ljerica. Legend has it that one
Niko Lale was an especially talented player even
though one of his fingers was broken. One day, he
had enough of working in the fields and screamed “No
more farming for me!” – oddly, in perfect English. From
then on he was a full time party animal and became
known as Linđo.
Winter 2011/2012
57

A. Barca H-2,3
A. Bošković J-2,3
A. Hallera I-2
A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2
A. Kazali H-2
A. Mihanovića J-2
A. Šenoe H-2
A.G. Matoša I-2
A.T. Mimare K-2
Androvićeva C-4
Ante Starčevića I-2
Antuninska C-2
Aquarium E-3
Arhiv D-2
Asimon E-1
B. Bušića L-2
Bernarda Shawa K-2
Babin Kuk G-2
Bandureva D-4
Banjska I-3
Batahovina G-1
Batala H-2/I-2
Biokovska G-2
Bokar A-3
Bokeljska G-1
Boninovo J-3
Bosanka L-2
Boškovićeva C-2
Božatska I-2
Braće Andrijića D-4
Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3
Brdasta J-2
Brgatska L-2
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Brsalje A-2
Brsečinska I-2
Bunićeva poljana C-3
Buža D-1
Cavtatska K-2
Celestina Medovića B-2
Crijevićeva C-4
Cvijete Zuzorić C-3
Čubranovićeva B-2
Ćilipska I-2
Ćira Carića G-2
D. Pulića A-1
Dalmatinska H-2
Dante Alighieria J-3
Dinka Ranjine C-3
Dolska H-1
Dr. A. Šercera H-2
Dr. V. Mačeka I-2
Dračasta K-2
Dropčeva C-2
Državna cesta D-8
Dubravkina G-2
Dunavska G-2,3
Džamija C-3
Đorđićeva B-2
Đura Baljevića D-4
Đura Basaričeka I-1
E. Kumičića H-2
F. Kolumbića H-2
F. Prešerna I-2
F. Supila L-2
Ferićeva B-3
Flore Jakšić G-2
street register
G. Rajčevića I-2,3
Garište B-2
Getaldićeva B-2
Gorica Sv. Vlaha H-3/I-3
Gornji kono I,J,K-2
Gradac J-3
Gradićeva D-4
Grbava C-4
Grebenska H-2
Grudska K-2
Gruška obala H-1
Gundulićeva poljana C/D-3
Hanibala Lucića C-1
Hladnica H-3
Hliđina B-3
Hodiljska I-2
Hvarska E-1
I. Matijaševića J-2
I. Račića L-2
I. Vojnovića H-2/I-3
Ilije Sarake D-4
Imotska I-1
Ispod Minčete B-1
Ispod mira D-4
Ispod Petke G-2
Istarska J-3
Ive Dulčića G-2
Ivana Zajca G,H-1
Ivanska G-3
Iza Grada B-1, K-2
Između ribnjaka H-2
Između tri crkve J-2
Između vrta K-3
Između polača C-2
Izvijačica A-1
J. Berse H-2
J. Pupačića H-2
Jakljanska H-1
Janjinska H-2
Josipa Kosora I-3
Kantafig G-1
Kardinala Stepinca F-2
Kaznačićeva C-3
Kliševska G-2
Kneza Domagoja H-2
Kneza Branimira I-2
Kneza Damjana Jude E-3
Kneza Hrvaša C-4
Knežev dvor D-3
Koločepska L-2
Komajska H-2
Komolačka G-1
Konavoska L-2
Korčulanska I-3
Koritska H-1
Kotorska I-3
Kovačka D-2
Kralja Tomislava H-2
Kunićeva C-2
Kunska I-1
L. Matačića H-1
L. Rogovskog G,H-2
Lapad G-3
Lapadska obala H-2
Lazareti L-2
Lazarina L-2
Winter 2011/2012
59

60 street register
Liechtensteinov put H,I-3
Lokrum L-3
Lokrumska K-2
Lopudska H-1
Lovrijenac K-3
Lovrina L-2
Lučarica D-3
Luka Dubrovnik H-1
Luke Sorkočevića G-2
Ljubuška H-1
M. Blažića K-3
M. Budaka K-2
M. Dizdara I-1
M. Gjaje J-2
M. Gupca K-2
M. Hamzića I-2
M. Jarnovića G-2
M. Mrnarevića I-2
M. Vodopića G,H-2
Mala Petka G-3
Mandaljenska G-3
Marina Držića D-3
Marka Marojice H-2
Marojice Kaboge C-3
Masarykov put F, G-3
Metohijska I-1
Miha Pracata C-2
Minčeta B/C-1
Mljetska H,I-1
Mokoška I-1
Moluntska G-1
Montovjerna I-2
Mosorska G-2
Most Dubrovnik G-1
Mrtvo zvono B-4
N. Ljubičića I-2
N. Nodila J-2
Na Andriji B-3
Na Mihajlu H-2
Na Ponti D-2
Nalješkovićeva C-2
Napice L-2
Neumska H-1
Nikole Božidarevića B,C-3
Nikole Gučetića C-3
Nikole Tesle H,I-2
Nuncijata H-1
Obala S. Radića I-2
Obodska K-2
Obuljenska J-2
Od Batale H-2
Od borova H-2
Od čempresa J-2
Od Danača J-3
Od Domina B-3
Od gaja I-1,2/J-2
Od Gale I,J-2
Od Greba Žudioskih K-2
Od Gradca J-3
Od Hladnice H-3
Od Kaštela B-4
Od Kolorine K-3
Od Margarite C-4
Od maslinate L-2
Od Montovjerne I-2
Od Nuncijate H-1
Od polača C-2
Od puča C,B-3
Od pustijerne D-4
Od Rupa B-3
Od Sigurate B-2
Od Srđa K-2
Od Sv. Mihajla H-2
Od škara I-1
Od šorte B-3
Od Tabakarije K-3
Oraška G-2
P. Budmani K-2
P. Čingrije I-3
P. Krešimira IV L-2
P. Preradovića H-2
Padre Perice I-1
Palmotićeva C-2
Paska Baburice H-2
Pećarica C-3
Peline C-1
Pelješka K-2
Pera Bakića J-2
Petilovrijenci C-2
Petra Svačića G-2
Pile J,K-3
Pionirska H-1
Placa C,D-2
Placa – Stradun C-2
Platska J-3
Ploče L-2
Plovani skalini C-1
Pobijana D-4
Pobreška H-1
Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4
Poljana Marina Držića D-3
Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4
Pomoraca H-1
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Pomorski muzej E-4
Porat E-3
Porporela E-3,4
Posat E-2
Postranjska I-2
Pred Dvorom D-3
Prelazna B-3
Pridvorska J-2
Prijeko B-2,3/C-2
Primorska G-2
Privežna J-2
Puljizeva B-3
Put od Bosanke L-2
Restićeva D-4
Revelin E-1
Riječka G-1
Ribarnica D-2
Roka Mišetića H-3
S.S. Kranjčevića I-2
Savska G-3
Sinjska I-2
Slanska G-2
Solinska I-2
Solitudo G-1
Sponza D-2
Srebrenska J-2
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Srednji kono K-2
Stayeva E-4
Stonska G-2
Strossmayerova C-3
Stulina D-4
Stradun B-2
Sunčana L-2
Sustjepanska I-2
Sv. Barbara C-1
Sv. Đurđa A-2/K-3
Sv. Ivan E-3
Sv. Jakov D-1
Sv. Križa H-1
Sv. Lucija C-1
Sv. Luka E-2
Sv. Petar B-4
Sv. Spasitelj E-4
Sv. Stjepan D-4
Sv. Šimuna B-4
Sv. Vid C-1
Sv. Vlaha D-3
Sv. Marije B-3
Sv.Dominika D-2
Sv. Josipa B-3
Sv.Nikole H-1
street register
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G,H-2
Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2
Šibenska G-2
Šipanska H-1
Šipčine I-2
Široka C-2
Tivatska J-2
Tmušasta C-3
Topolska I-2
Trg oružja E-2
Trnovička I-2
Trpanjska G-1
Trstenska G-2
U pilama K-3
Udarnička I-2
Uvala Gruž H-1
Uvala Sumartin F-3
Uz Giman H-2
Uz Glavicu H-2
Uz Jezuite C-3,4
Uz mline K-2
Uz posat B-1
Uz tabor K-2
Vladimira Nazora J-2
Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2
Velebitska G-2
Velika Petka G-3
Vetranićeva C-2
Vicina K-2
Viška I-2
Vlaha Paljetka H-1
Vukovarska I-2
Za kapelicom K-2
Za Kamenom E-4
Za Rokom B-3
Za rupama B-3
Zadarska G-2
Zagrebačka J,K-2
Zamanjina C-2
Zatonska G-2
Zlatarićeva B-2
Zlatarska D-2
Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2,3
Zvijezdićeva B-3,4
Željezničarska H-1
Žudioska D-2
Žuljanska I-2
Župska L-2
Winter 2011/2012
61

64 index
Africa 26
Apartments Toni 21
Arch Pub 27
Arsenal 27
Baracuda 25
Bellevue 17
Berkeley 19
Biker’s Café 26
Bistro Dubrava 22
Blidinje 23
Bota Šare 24
Buffet Škola 24
Bukovac House 30
Buža 27
Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua 23
Capitano 27
Church and Convent of Sigurata
& Museum of Sigurata Convent
31
Church of St Saviour 32
Croatia 20
Culto 27
Dolce vita 26
Dominican Monastery 28
Domino Steak House 23
Dubravka 22
Dubrovnik Natural History
Museum 30
Dubrovnik Palace 17
Dubrovnik Youth Hostel 18
Ethnographic Museum Rupe 31
Excelsior 17
Festival 26
Fresh Sheets 18
Fuego 27
Galerie 26
Galeta 22
Golden Sun Casino 27
GradsKavana 26
Grand Villa Argentina 17
Gundulić Square 33
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik 18
Importanne Resort 18
Indijan 20
Kamenice 25
Kapetanova kuća 24
Katie O’Connell’s Irish Pub 27
Kazbek 18
King Richard’s Pub 27
Klas 22
Komin 22
Kompas 19
Konavoski dvori 24
Konavoski komin 25
Korčula 20
Lapad 19
Laura 26
Lazareti 27
Lero 19
Leut 25
Living Room 26
Lokanda Peskarija 23
Maestoso 22
Maritime Museum 31
Mea Culpa 25
Mimoza 22
Modern History Museum 31
More 18
Niko 24
Nishta 25
None Nina 27
Oliva 25
Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and
Small 33
Orhan 22
Orlando’s Column 33
Ostrea 21
Pergola 25
Petka 19
Pjat 25
Porto 26
Proto 25
Radisson Blue Resort & Spa 21
Renaissance 24
Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik 18
Rozarij 23
Rozario Church and
Confraternity 32
Rusica 22
Rustico 24
Serbian Orthodox Church and
Museum of Icons 32
Sesame 24
SkyBar 27
St Ignatius’ Church 32
St Katherine’s Convent 32
St Nicholas’ Church 32
St Sebastian’s Church 32
Stari grad 20
Stradun, Placa 28
Tabak 24
Taj Mahal 23
Talir 26
Taverna Nostromo 22
The Archeological Museum 31
The Birthplace of Marin Držić 31
The Cathedral 33
The Church of St Blaise 28
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The City Belltower 33
The City Hall and Marin Držić
Theatre 33
The City Harbour 34
The City Walls, Bastions and
Pile & Ploče Gates 29
The Franciscan Monastery of
the Friars Minor and the Old
Pharmacy 30
The Lazaret 34
The Pucić Palace 18
The Rector’s Palace 30
The Synagogue and Jewish
Museum 31
Tovjerna Maro 22
Vapor 24
Vila Koruna 21
Vila Micika 21
Villa Neretva 25
Villa Vilina 20
Villas Koločep 20
Wanda 24
YC Orsan 25
Zlatno zrno 22
Zoe 23
Zure 25
Krešimir Žanetić, Adriatic Photo Service
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66 dubrovnik neretvA CountY
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Winter 2011/2012
67