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WINTER SPORTS ENTERTAINMENT REAL ESTATEFREEissue 17 Mar 21 – Apr 3 2009www.powderlife.comSayonaraUntil next season2008/2009 WRAPyep, it was a good seasonTHE AINU PEOPLEhokkaido's first inhabitantsRESTAURANT YOhurry slowly on downNiseko’s powder lifestyle magazine fresh every two weeks


Sekka


intro T contents pageGROOMERSNEWS PEOPLE PARTIES ETC11 Page Seven // Village news and happenings12 Niseko News // Be the first to know14 Cross Country // Offbeat news from across Japan16 Snap // Faces and fashion on the mountain17 Flash // Niseko’s nightlife and party scene18 Nightlife // The day really begins après19 In The Loop // What’s on in Niseko20 Powder Tools // Essentials for Niseko powder22 Meet the Locals // Introducing Niseko locals23 Irasshaimase // Great little local businesseswinter print run 50,000+出 版 者 publisher Bevan Colless ベバン ・コレス編 集 長 managing editor Kristian Lund クリスチャン・ランド副 編 集 長 associate editor Matthew Thomas マッシュー・トマスデザイナー designer Geoffrey McRoberts ジェフ・マックロ バ ーツ投 稿 者 contributors Katherine Bont, Lorne Calhoun, StirlingGoldman, Yuri Hamada, Nick Jackson, Sachiko Kageyama, ChikaMatsuda, Dale Riva, Tess Stomski, Saoka Wakasugi, Kim Wejendorp写 真 撮 影 photography Chris Benny, Glen Claydon Photography, JahlMarshall, Niseko Photography, Mike Richards広 告 掲 載 に 関 するお 問 い 合 わせ advertising inquiriesads@powderlife.com予 約 購 読 / 既 刊 subscriptions / past issuesinfo@powderlife.com<strong>Powderlife</strong> Niseko Magazine is a Niseko Media Publicationパウダーライフマガジンはニセコメディアが 出 版 しています170-5 Aza Yamada Kutchan-choAbuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081tel 0136 22 2000 fax 0136 22 2011www.powderlife.com©2009 Niseko Media KKContents of <strong>Powderlife</strong> are subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or inpart without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publicationof editorial does not necessarily constitute an endorsement of views oropinions expressed. The publisher does not accept responsibility for statementsmade by advertisers.Niseko’s first English language periodical magazine – published everytwo weeks in Niseko between December and March and once outsidewinter as Summerlifeニセコ 初 の 定 期 刊 行 雑 誌 。 冬 季 期 間 (12 月 ~3 月 )は2 週 間 に1 回発 行 、 冬 季 期 間 外 はサマーライフとして 一 回 発 行 。24263438404551FEATURESA WAIST-DEEP LOOK AT NISEKOHOKKAIDO'S AINUThe little-known Ainu, Hokkaido's first inhabitants, for themost part remain unknown.KURODAKE: BLACK MOUNTAINDale Riva takes <strong>Powderlife</strong> readers on a journey from thehotels of Hirafu to the canyons of Kurodake.RESTAURANT YONestled down in the Lower Village, tucked in behindpension Hurry Slowly, is Restaurant Yo.SURVIVING NISEKO<strong>Powderlife</strong> has compiled this ‘village survival guide’ tokeep you safe.IN FOCUS: Masanobu SaitoMasanobu invited <strong>Powderlife</strong> to his cozy restaurant to talkabout his love for Niseko, skiing and the community.A HISTORY OF 'K-TOWN'A timeline of Kutchan from settlement in 1892 until itspresent position in the international spotlight.Q&A WITH JONATHAN MARTINNisade's head honcho and family man gives us his viewson Niseko past, present and future.BACKCOUNTRYHIKE OUT THE BACK FOR THE REST30 A Thousand Words // Pictures for your wall33 Music Reviews // Nick Jackson36 Japanese Cooking // Salada Udon42 Learning Japanese // Japanese for Powder People44 Kutchan // Intoducing Kutchan46 Men Who Ride Mountains // with Stirling Goldman48 Real Estate News // Latest Niseko real estate news52 Course Map // Mountain info54 Walking Map // Must have village directory55 Phone Directory // Your town pages57 Local Information // Essential tips and info on Niseko58 The Last Word On Health // Japan: land of contrastscover Anton Green photo Chris BennyIf you are going to jump off cornices make sure you have checked local avalanche information athttp://niseko.nadare.info/. Know the dangers of the backcountry and respect the Niseko Local Rules.6 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com


Yep, it was a good seasonTHERE can be almost no doubting that if one of the main goalson your skiing holiday is to get untracked powder, you should becoming to Niseko. Local weather watcher Mike ‘Pow’ Richardscollates his own snowfall data and has been keeping meticulousrecord for the past three seasons. According to Mike, at the timeof going to print in mid-March, the longest period without anysnowfall at village level all season was 10 days. And that wasbefore the lifts started running for the season. In other words, ifyou were here for a two week holiday at any time this seasonyou would have had your powder fix. Niseko has had more rainydays, more lift closures due to high winds, and more mid-winterwarm spells than in previous seasons, but it is still head andshoulders above other resorts in Japan. By mid-March, Nisekohad seen 11.4m of snow at village level this season. The heaviestsnow month was January with 334cm overall and one whoppingovernight dump of 52cm. February chipped in with 262cm andthe dark horse, March, served up good falls to date andpredictions are for persistent cold weather and more heavy fallsin the weeks ahead.Swedish pros film latest movie in NisekoPhoto: Glen ClaydonSki dunnies make a splashTALK about best seat in the house!In yet another Japanese stroke of genius, severalski resorts throughout the country have decoratedthe toilet walls, door and floor with a vision from aski jumper's point-of-view. So even when you'recaught short in the loo, you still aren't missing out onany of the on-mountain action. With interactivity inmind, from the seated position you can look down atyour feet in skis, and the intimidatingly steep skijump ahead.Japan’s toilet facilities are infamous for their hightechgadgetry ranging from seat warmers and airdeodorisers to jet-washers.Energy drink company Georgia Max Coffee came upwith the idea to advertise their product in the WCs withthe artwork. The toilet paper holder carried the only'Engrish' subtle brand messaging in the cubicle:'Seriously kick-ass intensely sweet for the real coffeesuper-zinging unstoppable Max! Taste-explosion!'.These artistic, snow-themed innovations are truly allabout piste and big dumps in every sense of the words!LAYER CAKE... Layer upon layer ofwinter goodness. Photo: Mike Richards.FEMALE Swedish pro skiers Janette Hargin and Sara Orrensjö(pictured left) recently spent 10 days in Niseko filming for asegment of their new all-girl freeskiing movie, Catch Us If U Can.It will be the first all-girl freeskiing movie ever produced, andhas received a lot of press in Sweden, where its release later thisyear is eagerly anticipated.The girls, a dual GS Olympian and a Freesking World Tourcompetitor, are the latest on a long list of pro skiers andboarders to visit Niseko this season, also including skier PepFujas, among many others.As the global shift to powder freeskiing gathersmomentum, Niseko is becoming a must have on the shootinglist for snow videos.The girls got some great footage while they were here, and hitsome massive jumps during a tour with Niseko SnowcatAdventures in the deep backcountry, and in Hanazono'sStrawberry Fields."Niseko will be a big part of the movie, and since we also aremaking a documentary of the trip, we will include footage fromTokyo, and some temples and onsens," Sara says.So, how did they enjoy their time here? "We had a fantasticstay," Sara says. "Cliff at Freedom Inn was an angel and helpedus with so many things. Jessica Geldart from the NisekoPromotion Board was also a big help. We got lots of light fluffypowder that you almost never get in Europe. The onsens andfood were a favourite. We'd love to come back!"page seven T newsBy Bevan Colless and Matthew ThomasDeadly sauceRATE yourself as someone who canhandle a bit of spice? Then we dareyou to wander into Jam Bar inNiseko's Upper Village and ask thefriendly staff for some 'Death Sauce'to splash on your burger or pizza. Thisstuff makes Tabasco Sauce taste likegolden syrup. But it comes with fairwarning on the bottle, emblazonedwith skeletons, fire, chillies and othersymbols synonymous with pain.However, be warned: it goes out asspicy as it goes in, if you get our drift?Best of NisekoHOW can you possibly choose afavourite restaurant in Niseko?!You can't, so you have to ask thepublic to vote for their's in theBest of Niseko Awards. The peoplehave spoken, the votes have beencounted... it’s time to announceNiseko’s most popular businessesfor season 2008/09.Best of Niseko 2008/09Restaurant – SekkaNew chefs Kat and Kim's passion isobvious, and obviously impressed.Izakaya – RinNestled in the Lower Village, thisunassuming izakaya is a winner.Bar – Yuki BarSpacious, smoke-free, internationalparty atmosphere. Good times!!Onsen – HiltonLooking out across the carp pond,this is a classic onsen experience.Café – Downtown CaféGreat location, great atmosphere,love the couches... (and cute staff)Convenience store – LawsonSeicomart still gets more business,but the long lines are a killer.Souvenir shop – SakuraAuthentic Japanese souvenirs,kimono photos, culture in Hirafu.Resort – Niseko VillageGroovy groomers, amazing offpiste,something for everyone.Activity – SnowmobilingRoaring through Niseko's snowycountryside – oh, what a feeling!www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 11


news T niseko newsBy Matthew Thomas2020 vision for ashot at bullet trainTHIS time next year it will be known whether Nisekowill be serviced by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo,according to local officials.If it goes ahead, the service would be completed by2020 and make it much quicker and easier forinternational visitors to transfer from Narita, Japan’sbusiest international hub in Tokyo.Local government believes the ease with whichdomestic and international tourists could travel toNiseko, and the resulting increase in associatedeconomic benefits and infrastructure, could greatlyenhance tourism and associated benefits in the area.The trip from Tokyo to the local Kutchan Stationwould take three-and-a-half hours. Kutchan toSapporo would take just 15 minutes, as opposed totwo-to-three hours by road.Prices have not yet been confirmed, but based onthe cost of the 630km bullet train trip to Aomori at thenorthern tip of the mainland (¥15,350), it could beestimated the remaining 360km could bring the totalto about ¥20,000-25,000.In comparison, the trip from Tokyo’s internationalairport Narita to Niseko, including ground transfers,can take between five and eight hours, and costbetween ¥15,000 and ¥30,000.In 2004 the Japanese government confirmed thetrain would link Hokkaido to the mainland with astation at Hakodate, on the southern tip of the island,by 2015, and work began in 2005.Environmental impact studies and economicassessments are currently being undertaken and thegovernment is expected to make an announcementabout whether the line will extend to Sapporo, viaKutchan, in March next year.Youko Tanaka, spokesperson for the Kutchan TownOffice, is confident the train line will go ahead, andsaid there would be many positives for Niseko andKutchan if it did.Ultimately the region would grow in local populationand tourism numbers, she said.Given the short commute time between Sapporo andNiseko, more people from Sapporo could live in theunpopulated region of Niseko while working inSapporo, Japan’s fifth largest city with a population ofabout 1.9 million.SIGN OF THE TIMES...3h45minto Tokyo, 15min to Sapporo.FUJI-SAN... A Shinkansen passesin front of Mt Yotei's bigbrother.It would also give all the people in northern Honshu(on the mainland) the ability to easily access the area,where they previously would have had to travel byslow local train, or via Tokyo.While planes are often disrupted by snowstorms in winter, a train service would rarely bedelayed by weather.On the bullet train, skiers from Sapporo wouldalso be able to access Niseko more easily, aspreviously the easiest way to get there was by car onslow, icy roads.The associated economic benefits would probablyensure Eki Mae Dori, Kutchan’s main street, wouldbe redeveloped.Ms Tanaka said a possible negative may be thedisruption of local train services, which mayinconvenience locals and those from surroundingdistricts looking to access Kutchan.According to current plans, 80 per cent of the trackfrom Hakodate to Sapporo would be tunnels, withplans to bring the line above ground around theNiseko region to allow the view of Mt Yotei andNiseko’s famous countryside.The train that would run the route, to be operatedby JR Hokkaido, would be the fastest in the world witha top speed of 360km/h.Getting to Niseko...by helicopterHELICOPTER transfers are now available for HiltonNiseko Village guests for ¥189,000 per person for theone-way flight from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport.Patrons can be picked up at the airport and driven toa nearby helipad where they take off in an Aero Asahichopper, then land in a field near the Hilton about 30minutes later. It is said well-healed passengers can besitting in the Niseko Village gondola an hour afterlanding at Chitose. 'Hilton Niseko Village generalmanager Daniel Welk said the new service was forextremely high-end clients who believed money justwasn't an option.“There are some who will payanything for a high-quality ski experience,” he said. “Atwo-hour commute is fine for most people, but somearen't interested and just don't want to wait.”There's even some talk of a Hong Kong to HiltonNiseko Village door-to-door, Welk said. “Within sixhours you can leave hot and humid Hong Kong andbe in sub-zero, powdery conditions riding NisekoVillage's natural half-pipe,” he said.Hokkaido-filmedmovie a hit withChineseA BLOCKBUSTER Chinese romantic comedy hasput Hokkaido on the map, making Japan'snorthern island an instant tourism hotspot forChinese travellers.Tourism operators are already offering weeklytrips to locations featured in the Feng Xiaogandirectedmovie If You Are The One, a coup for Nisekoski resorts, which have China in their sights as afuture market demographic.The movie is a love story involving two youngChinese and their Hokkaido sightseeing romance.Hokkaido is known for its natural beauty and thepristine scenery of the eastern part of the island,including the Okhotsk Sea coast, the World NaturalHeritage site of Shiretoko, and the wetlands ofKushiro, all of which feature in If You Are The One.12 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com


gear T powder toolsBy Bevan CollessK2 Gyrator SnowboardNOW the big companies are starting to realise whatthe smaller snow surfing companies knew a longtime ago: when making a board to ride camber it'sall about camber/rocker. K2 is one of the first of thebig boys to cotton onto Gentem's trick ofcombining flex pattern and sidecut radiuses withsome rocker. As camber, reverse camber and rockerare some of those terms more people use thanunderstand, here it is broken down. So are youready for it? Camber is the bend in a board thatmakes the centre of the board under the bindingslift slightly off the ground when on a flat deck(concave surface down). Reverse camber androcker are essentially the same thing, and whenlaid flat on the floor the tip of the board will liftup (convex surface down).That wasn't so hard,was it? Back in the day, snowboards had rockersjust like surfboards. The Gyrator has rocker thatprovides effortless float in fresh powder, while itscarbon Matrix II torsion forks give the Gyratorundeniable ollie pop. This baby has been flyingoff the shelves in North America and supply is abit low, but you can pick yourself one up herein Niseko from Fusion on special for ¥72,000.Phone 0136 21 6633.Black Diamond Carbon Fibre StocksWHAT is it about the words 'carbon fibre' that grabs a gearfreak's attention like my dog Yuki’s when I grab his dinnerbowl? One of the best strength-to-weight ratios of any material,that's what. From aeroplane and helicopter components tobicycle frames, and now backcountry ski poles, when you wantsomething ultra-light and super-strong, you want it to be madeof carbon fibre. Black Diamond Carbon Fiber FlickLock Ski Polesare the strongest and lightest poles around. A carbon-fibre lowershaft and aluminum upper are secured together by BD'spatented FlickLock, a device that opens and closes with the flickof your thumb – streets ahead of the screw-style system of thecompetitors. BD have smashed Scott out of the ski pole ballparkin recent years, thanks in large part to the user-friendlyFlickLock that makes these some of the easiest poles to adjust,which you'll appreciate in the backcountry. Another nifty featureis dual-density grips with a slight corrective angle to maximiseyour control on steep descents. You'll love the asymmetricalpowder baskets, which are perfect for planting on the powderand giving you something to leverage off. Available from NAC¥15,375 Tel: 0136 23 2093Smart Wool PhD Ski SocksWHEN it comes to ski and board socks, SmartWoolhave leapt head and shoulders above the pack inrecent years. SmartWool was formed by someAmerican ski instructors tired of so-called 'high-tech'materials leaving them with cold, sweaty feet. Theyreturned to the tried-and-tested natural fibre: wool.While these socks may have been warm, they wereitchy and shrank. So they worked on a process to makethem soft and easy to care for and formed SmartWool.SmartWool socks stayed dry, soft and comfortable, andawards began to flow in 1995. The most versatile inSmartWool's line is the PhD Ski Light Sock, which hasenough cushioning for all-day ripping, is reinforced withSmart yarns, has been padded up with lightweight fullcushioning, and includes the 4-Degree Fit System toeliminate bunching and irritation inside your shoesor boots. Rounding out the list, there'sinnovation in temperature regulation,moisture management and odourcontrol. Gold. Available from Inski¥3,200. Tel: 0136 22 4199Nordica Jah Love Alpine SkiASIDE from Niseko local Pah Dahlin, I don't know manyRastafarians who ski and there definitely isn't snow inJamaica. But then, the Nordica Jah Love isn'treally made to ski – it’s designed to float.With 140mm of solid wood core stabilityunder your feet, and flat camber, you'llsurf almost effortlessly in any type ordepth of powder. The Jah Love's uniquetip-waist design gives you maximumperformance in deep snow and makespowder skiing an unforgettableexperience, providing a snappy,responsive feel to give you nothing butpositive vibrations. They don’t makeyou want to go Mach 10, but toleratepretty high speeds without trying toforce you into going any faster thanyou normally would. Their nameseems very appropriate: easy goingand happy, no stress. Lively upyourself! On groomers they are s-lo-wfrom edge to edge. Tip themover, wait, wait, wait, here theycome, and then the edge completelyfails to grip on anything hard. Thisis not the type of ski you'll buy ifyou only have one ski, but if you'relooking for a fat bow to add toyour quiver, it's either this or theK2 Pontoon. Or Toki from Niseko343's snowboard on each foot (seePage Seven issue 14). Availablefrom Murasaki sports Sapporo.¥85,000. Tel: 011-219-423120 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 21


community T meet the localsBy Saoka Wakasugiwelcome irasshaimase T communityBy Saoka WakasugiLodge and Restaurant BoyosoTHOUSANDS of people pass over Boyoso everyday, but only a lucky few end up inside. Boyoso isthe log cabin halfway up the hill under the Hirafugondola. By day it’s one of Niseko’s few on-hillrestaurants and by night it's Niseko’s only on-hill accommodation– you actually have to get the ski liftthere! It was built in 1965 as a safety hut for peoplewho were lost. Current owners Toshimi and HirokoFunaba have been running it since 1986. For lunchthey serve a wide range of Japanese ski hill favourites(including <strong>Powderlife</strong>’s favourite ski lunch, katsucurry) in generous portions. Specialties are 'ikura' orcrab on rice! www5d.biglobe.ne.jp/~bo-yo-so/.ロッジ レストラン 望 羊 荘毎 日 何 千 人 もの 人 が 望 羊 荘 の 上 を 通 り 過 ぎていますが、レストランを 利 用 するのはその 中 の 一 握りの 人 です。 望 羊 荘 はヒラフゴンドラの 中 腹 に 位置 します。 現 在 では 二 セコの 山 にある 数 少 ないレストランの 一 つで、 夜 には 宿 泊 施 設 になります。なんとお 客 さんはスキーリフトを 使 ってチェックインします。1965 年 に 山 の 非 難 小 屋 として 建 てられた 現 在 の 建 物 は1986 年 から 船 場 俊 己 さんとひろ 子 さんが 支 配 人 をつとめています。 日 本 食メインのランチメニューは、パウダーライフ 一 押しカツカレーをはじめ、どれもボリューム 満 点 です。カニいくら 丼 もお 試 しください!!ホームページwww5d.biglobe.ne.jp/~bo-yo-so/LIFTIE Shinyaname Shinya Ueharaage 31 hometown Naganodo you like powder? I love itso muchski/board? Snowboardhow long have you beenboarding? Ten yearswhy did you come to Niseko?Found it while travelingwhat did you do in summertime? Worked and played slotmachineswhat languages do you speak?Japanesetrips overseas? Guam, USAwhere do you want to gonext? Not sure yetfavourite…colour Blackbrand Nothing in particularfood Meatrestaurant Anything cozy withgood foodbar Don’t drinkonsen Yukichichibuski run Anywhere untrackedwhere else do you want to goskiing overseas? Nowherewhat does niseko need? Nothing,it’s perfectniseko secret? I want to knowtoo!what’s your life philosophy?There’s a long way to go!!GROOMER Boolee Shingo名 前 ウエハラ シンヤ name Shingo Tanaka名 前 タナカ シンゴ 年 齢 28 出 身 地年 齢 31 出 身 地 長 野ニセコに 来 てどのくらいですか?age 28 hometown Rankoshihow long have you been in蘭 越 町 ニセコに 来 てどのくらいですか?アンヌプリスキー 場 で4 歳 のころ8 年 パウダースノーは 好 きですか? niseko? Skiing since four years から 滑 っていますたまに 奇 声 でるくらい 好 きかも old in Annupuri do you like パウダースノーは 好 きですか?スキーヤー?スノーボーダー? powder? Yep, I ski every morningピステンで 毎 朝 滑 っていますスノーボーダーski/board? Skier how long スキーヤー?スノーボーダー?スキー 歴 /ボード 歴 10 年なぜニセコに 来 たのですか?have you been skiing? 24 years スキーヤー スキー 歴 ・スノーボードwhy did you come to niseko? I 歴 24 年 なぜニセコに 来 たのです旅 の 途 中 で 見 つけた夏 には 何 をしてましたか?仕 事 、ス ロ ット話 す 言 語 は? 日 本 語was here since childhoodwhat did you do in summertime? Made fresh vegetablesand riceか?いつの 間 にかいました夏 には 何 をしてましたか?新 鮮 な 野 菜 と、おいしい 米 を 作 っています 話 す 言 語 は?海 外 には 行 った 事 ありますか? what languages do you speak? 北 海 道 の 言 葉 、じょっぴん(かぎ)、ハグアムだけHokkaido dialectイカラ、かっぱがす(ひっくり 返 す) 海次 はどこに 行 きたいですか? trips overseas? Three countries 外 には 行 った 事 ありますか?3カ 国 い決 めてない好 きな…where do you want to gonext? Canadaったことがある次 はどこに 行 きたいですか?色 は? 黒 系favourite… Colour The colour カナダ 好 きな… 色 は? 朝 焼 けの 景ブランドは? 決 めてない食 べ 物 は? 肉 類レストランは? くつろげるおいしい 店 バーは? 飲 まない温 泉 は? 雪 秩 父 コースは? 誰 もof the sunrise brand Yamahafood Yakiniku (grilled meat)restaurant Nook Annupuribar Café Grove onsenYusenkaku at Rankoshi色 ブランドは?Yamaha食 べ 物 は? 焼 き 肉 レストランは?ヌックアンヌプリバーは?Café Grove 温 泉 は? 蘭 越 幽泉 閣 コースは?アンヌプリ ジュニ滑 ってないところ 海 外 のスキー ski run Annupuri Junior Course アコース ニセコにはどのくらいいる場 で 一 度 行 ってみたいスキー 場は? 特 にないニセコにはどのくらいいる 予 定 ですか? 自 分 も 知 りたいニセコに 今 無 い 物 で、 必 要 だと 思うものは? 今 のままでいいニセコの 秘 密 は? 俺 も 知 りたいあなたの 人 生 観 は?まだまだぁぁ!!where else do you want to goskiing overseas? Whistlerwhat does niseko need? Nothingelse, it’s got enough as it isniseko secret? Everyone has itin their heartwhat’s your life philosophy?Pass each year experiencingthe four seasons予 定 ですか? 体 力 が 続 くまで ニセコ以 外 でどこのスキー 場 に 行 きたいですか?ウィスラー ニセコに 今 無 い 物で 、 必 要 だと 思 うも の は? 今 あるもので 十 分 です ニセコの 秘 密 は?みんなの 胸 のなかにありますあなたの 人 生 観 は?四 季 を 感 じながら1 年 1 年 を 過 ごしていきたいですSKI INSTRUCTOR Manabuname Manabu Doumotoage 31 hometown Kobehow long have you been inNiseko? 11 yearsdo you like powder? Yepski/board? Snowboarderhow long have you beensnowboarding? 15yearswhy did you come to niseko?Powder!what did you do in summertime? Constructionwhat languages do youspeak? Japanesetrips overseas? Yeswhere do you want to gonext? Hawaiifavourite…colour Bluebrand Ridefood Meatrestaurant Nakayabar PeDenkionsen Kira no yuski run Marchen Coursewhere else do you want to goskiing overseas? Whistlerhow long will you be inNiseko? Not sure yetwhat does niseko need?McDonaldsniseko secret? Don’t know yetwhat’s your life philosophy?Go through enjoying life名 前 ドウモト マナブ年 齢 31 出 身 地 神 戸ニセコに 来 てどのくらいですか?11 年パウダースノーは 好 きですか? YESスキーヤー?スノーボーダー?スノーボーダースノーボード 歴 15 年なぜニセコに 来 たのですか?パウダーを 滑 りたいから夏 には 何 をしてましたか?建 築 、 建 設話 す 言 語 は?日 本 語海 外 には 行 った 事 ありますか?YES次 はどこに 行 きたいですか?ハワイ好 きな 色 は? 青ブランドは? ライド食 べ 物 は? 肉レストランは? なかやバーは? ぺデンキ温 泉 は? 綺 羅 の 湯コースは? メルヘンコース海 外 のスキー 場 で 一 度 行 ってみたいスキー 場 は? ウィスラーニセコにはどのくらいいる 予 定 ですか? 未 定ニセコに 今 無 い 物 で、 必 要 だと 思うものは? マクドナルドニセコの 秘 密 は? わからないあなたの 人 生 観 は?たのしみながらなんとなくいきることAsahikawa Ramen TozankenTHE Japanese are famous for doing things reallywell, especially when it comes to food. So you knowwhen they take a great Chinese dish and give itthe Japanese touch, it’s going to be good. Ramenis Chinese noodles, Japanese style. Cold Hokkaidois famous for its hot ramen – Sapporo for itsmiso-flavoured variety, while in central Hokkaido,Asahikawa is famous for its soy-sauce version. Hirafuhas an authentic Asahikawa ramen restaurant,thanks to Hiroomi Hirokawa, whose parents still runa ramen restaurant in Asahikawa today. AsahikawaRamen Tozanken is in the big souvenir shop buildingon Hirafu-Zaka St, just below Paddy McGinty’s.Niseko Cheese FactoryKondou Takashi was born in Monbetsu in the verynorth of Hokkaido. He loves cheese and used to workin the deli section of a supermarket, but eventually becamebored of selling somebody else’s product, so hedecided he’d learn how to make his own. Takashi-sanwent to school in France for two months to learn howto make cheese. He then spent a whole year lookingfor a place for his factory – he chose Niseko becauseit was close to Sapporo, the dairy farms are smalland the grass is rich in minerals making for excellentquality milk. He makes a wide range of cheeses and isconstantly adding new products, the next being cheesepudding and fromage. The factory is at the T-junctionof Routes 343 and 66 near Higashiyama. Closed Tuesdaysand Wednesdays. www.niseko-cheese.co.jp.旭 川 ラーメン 登 山 軒日 本 人 は 技 術 的 水 準 が 高 いといわれていますが、とりわけ 食 べ 物 となるとそれはなおさらです。もしおいしい 中 華 料 理 が、 日 本 人 の 手 にかかればさらにおいしくなります。ラーメンは 中国 の 麺 料 理 で、 日 本 風 にアレンジしています。寒 い 北 海 道 では 暖 かい 食 べ 物 のラーメンが人 気 です。 札 幌 は 一 般 的 に 味 噌 味 が 有 名 で、北 海 道 の 真 ん 中 、 旭 川 に 来 ると、それがしょうゆ 味 になります。ヒラフには 旭 川 ラーメン 店 があり、 廣 川 博 臣 さんがご 両 親 のラーメン 店 を受 け 継 いでいます。 旭 川 ラーメン 登 山 軒 はヒラフ 坂 に 面 しており、Paddy McGinty’sの 下 、お 土 産 屋 さんベルグプラザの 中 にあります。二 セコチーズ 工 房近 藤 孝 志 さんは 北 海 道 の 北 部 、 紋 別 市 で 生 まれました。スーパーの 乳 製 品 コーナーで 働 いたこともあり、チーズは 大 好 きだそうです。 早 期 退 職 した後 チーズ 作 りを 勉 強 するために2ヶ 月 間 フランスに 留 学 しました。その 後 工 房 をどこにするかを 検 討した 結 果 、 二 セコを 選 びました。 二 セコは 札 幌 にも近 く、 酪 農 家 は 牛 の 数 が 少 ないので、 牛 の 顔 を 覚 えていることと、ミネラルを 豊 富 に 含 んだ 草 を 食 べている 牛 はストレスがなく、チーズ 作 りには 欠 かせない、 上 質 の 牛 乳 が 取 れるそうです。 新 製 品 の 開 発 にも 積 極 的 に 取 りくみ、 土 日 限 定 のチーズプリンや、フロマージュなどたくさんのお 勧 め 商 品 があります。 場 所 は 東 山 の 国 道 343 号 線 と66 号 線 のT 字 路にあります。 火 曜 日 と 水 曜 日 がお 休 みです。ホームページhttp://www.niseko-cheese.co.jp22 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 23


feature T ainu in hokkaidoThe Ainu: Hokkaido's hidden indigenous peopleTHE little-known Ainu, Hokkaido's first inhabitants, for the most part remain unknown, hidden in the shadowsof today's Japan. Their existence was even categorically denied by the government until last year. However, theseare an indigenous people steeped in history, and remain vastly culturally different to their Japanese neighbours.Guest reporter Angela Kennewell writes for <strong>Powderlife</strong>...The Ainu still leave their mark on Japan - evenin today's NisekoTourists to Niseko would be forgiven for thinking thatnames of many places in the area are Japanese inorigin. The truth is, many local towns and landmarkshave names derived from the language of the Ainu,Hokkaido's little-known indigenous people. Niseko,Annupuri, Kutchan, not to mention many of the localbusiness names, all have their roots in the Ainulanguage. Take ‘Niseko’, for example, derived from‘Nisekoan', which means ‘river which runs around thebottom of a sheer cliff’ in Ainu. Mt Niseko-Annupuri,home to the Niseko United ski resorts, is intimatelylinked to the name of the town, as ‘Nupuri’ means'mountain' in Ainu. Thus, Nisekoan-Nupuri (usuallywritten as Niseko-Annupuri) means, ‘mountain with ariver which runs around the bottom of a sheer cliff’.Kutchan means, ‘where the channel flows’, oralternatively, ‘stream of a hunting lodge’. And mostmountains in the area have names with Ainu origins,including Mt Konbu, Chisenupuri and Iwaonupuri, toname a few. All over Hokkaido there are town andlandmark names derived directly, or indirectly, fromthe language of Hokkaido's first inhabitants.How did the Ainu arrive in Hokkaido?Though no one seems able to agree conclusively, thepredominant theory indicates that Ainu are descendedfrom a northern mongoloid race estimated to havemigrated to Hokkaido and Russia's Sakhalin Islandsfrom around 300 B.C. Recent research involving DNAtesting of sample groups of Ainu descendants hasconfirmed that the Ainu are ethnically distinct fromJapanese, holding more in common, at leastgenetically, with the people of Tibet and AndamanIslanders of the Indian Ocean. There are thought to beonly a handful of ‘pure’ Ainu remaining today, almostall of whom live in Hokkaido. A census conducted in2006 counted just 26,782 people of Ainu descent.However, the harsh reality is that many Ainu havesuffered the indignity of racism and discrimination, attimes so severe that it is estimated a significant numberof surviving Ainu descendants conceal their ethnicorigins. It’s believed some are actually completelyunaware of their heritage, due to parents andgrandparents concealing their identity from them inorder to protect them from discrimination.The Ainu and their cultureThe Ainu of Hokkaido and Sakhalin have a culture that iswholly their own, having lived in relative isolation forhundreds of years prior to the Japanese annexation ofHokkaido. Their customs and animist religious beliefs arequite distinctive, and their language is considered bylinguists to be an ‘isolate’ - that is, a language not related toany other. Unlike Japanese, Ainu do not eat raw meat orfish, preferring to boil, roast or preserve meat for the long,harsh Hokkaido winters through smoking or drying. Thisauthor can tell you, deer stew, ‘Yuk Ohaw’, cooked in thetraditional Ainu method, is a delicious experience (eventhough the meat is admittedly a little tough), and their verytasty potato cakes, ‘Munini-imo’, made from the flour ofpotatoes repeatedly frozen and thawed, is a unique andbizarre flavour sensation. It has been claimed that the flourof these potatoes can be stored for up to 20 years.The Ainu, similar to many indigenous cultures around theworld, hold the natural environment in reverence, withtheir animist religious beliefs perhaps the clearestindication of the importance of nature in their culture andcustoms. The word ‘Ainu’ means ‘human’, or morespecifically, the opposite of ‘Kamuy’, meaning ‘God’.According to the Ainu, Kamuy exist in everything. All plantsand creatures have the spirits of Gods in them, and allobjects used in daily life also hold ‘lesser’ Gods.Traditionally, songs and dances are performed for Godsboth in ceremonial occasions and also in daily life, forexample when hunting, hunters would perform a uniquedance and song for any creature they killed, to guide thespirit (Kamuy) of the creature safely back to the ‘Mintara’(Home of the Gods). Perhaps the most famous of these suchdances is the Bear Dance, which nowadays is regularlyperformed when Ainu cultural tradition is demonstratedto tourists.The Japanese invasionSo when, then, did the Japanese come to Hokkaidoand how, or why, did they take over? Though there isevidence that Japanese and Ainu traded goods such assalmon and grains for several centuries, there wasrelatively little contact between the indigenouspeoples of Hokkaido and their southern neighboursuntil late in the 15th Century. Everything changed,however, when the Japanese invaded Hokkaido, layingclaim to land and dispossessing the indigenous Ainu,forcing them to submit to Japanese rule and work innear-slavery conditions in the Japanese fishingindustry. On the whole, the Ainu were a peacefulpeople and little resistance was offered; the Japanesemovement to take control of Hokkaido and Sakhalinwas swift and decisive, and of the three notablebattles fought between 1457 and 1789, all were wonconvincingly by the Japanese forces. This was followedin 1799 with the banning of Ainu language andcultural traditions, such as ceremonial songs anddances; even their clothing was considered a threat toJapanese rule, culminating in anything related to Ainuidentity being strongly suppressed. While officialJapanese records state that the annexation ofHokkaido formally declared in 1868 was to further theunity of the Japanese nation and defend against theRussians, the reality is that the desire to control thelarge tract of land so close to the Japanese mainlandisland of Honshu, blessed with abundant naturalresources and rich fishing grounds, was as much areason as any desire for Japanese unity.The Ainu in the modern dayFor the Ainu people specifically, 2008 marked asignificant historical milestone, as the Japanesegovernment for the first time acknowledged the Ainuas an indigenous group in Japan. For the Ainu, this isan affirmation of not just their right to cultivate andmaintain Ainu language, culture and traditions, but animplicit admission by the Japanese government thatthey were indeed the first inhabitants of Hokkaido; agovernment that until 1997 had steadfastly claimedthat there were no ethnic minority or indigenousgroups in Japan at all, denying Ainu culture andethnicity in its entirety.Efforts are being made to preserve Ainu culture andtraditions for future generations, with gradual softeningof official attitudes sparking a revival of Ainu dance andoral tradition. Museums preserving and celebrating Ainuculture have grown to become popular touristattractions in Hokkaido. However, the Ainu language isconsidered to be nearly extinct, with only 15 knownnative speakers surviving today. Ainu advocacy groupssuch as the Hokkaido Utari (comrade) Association haverecently begun campaigns to teach Ainu language andculture to the current generation of Ainu youth, but withlimited success. Only time will tell if their efforts will beable to revive this dying language, and keep alive an oraltradition dating back almost 1000 years.Where can the Ainu be found today?When the Russians (re)claimed the islands of Sakhalin,situated off the north coast of Hokkaido, at the end ofWorld War II, all indigenous Ainu and Japanese livingthere were forcibly ‘repatriated’ to Hokkaido on thegrounds that they had come from there originally. Thiswas done despite there being little evidence that the Ainuliving on Sakhalin had migrated there in recent times –quite the contrary, with evidence many of Sakhalin's Ainuhad lived there for centuries. While some Ainu removedfrom Sakhalin have returned over the past 50 years, themajority did not. As such, almost all Ainu today live inHokkaido, predominantly in the eastern areas of Hidakaand around Akan. The tiny town of Nibutani, in theHidaka region, is home to the majority of Hokkaido's Ainupopulation, and until recently was also host to an AinuCulture Festival. But the tourist town of Akan in easternHokkaido is perhaps the most well-known place touristscan go to observe and experience Ainu culture and food.Learning more about the AinuInterest in Ainu culture and traditions has been growingsteadily over the past two decades, with something of arenaissance beginning in just the last few years as Ainubegin to feel more comfortable about embracing theirhistory and culture. Museums in Nopporo (on theeastern outskirts of Sapporo), Shiraoi and Nibutaniattempt to preserve Ainu historical artifacts and promotefurther understanding of Ainu culture and history,holding regular workshops where tourists can experienceAinu handicrafts, singing and dancing. Encouragingly, agreater interest in incorporating Ainu song and danceinto local events is underway, such as the AinuinfluencedFashion in the Forest event held at NisekoKanronomori Hotel last summer, and the Kutchan AinuMuseum Fair in January each year. If you're really luckyyou may even get to see unofficial ambassador for Ainumusical tradition, Oki Kano of the Oki Dub Ainu band,play his unique blend of western blues and Ainuinstrumental folk music at a local event or festival. If youare interested in experiencing Ainu culture for yourself,why not pop into the Ainu Museum in Nopporo, easilyaccessible by public transport from the Shin-SapporoTrain Station in Sapporo, or head along to the KutchanAinu Museum Fair next January.BLACK DIAMONDainu in hokkaido T featureGUIDINGNiseko Off-PisteNiseko Back BowlsRusutsu ToursKokusai ToursKiroro ToursBackcountrySKIER: JP AUCLAIRPHOTO: DAVID LEVINWhere have you been this week?www.blackdiamondtours.cominfo@blackdiamondtours.com 090-2054-8687RESTAURANT & BARreservations@bdlodge.comwww.bdlodge.com 0136-44-1144Japanese & Western CuisineGood Tunes, Vids, DrinksFree Shuttles (call for pickup)Private Terrain ParkPool Table24 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 25


feature T kurodake black mountainkurodake black mountain T featureBlack Mountain Calling…By Dale RivaWHILE Niseko offers a dream-like landscape of lift-accessed, fluffy powder runs for the masses,beyond the bright lights there are mountains of consequence to be found in Hokkaido. Standingabove them all is Kurodake – Black Mountain. Long-time Niseko and Hokkaido local Dale Riva is oneof many die-hard mountain men who has been seduced by the lure of The Mountain. Dale takes<strong>Powderlife</strong> readers on a journey from the hotels of Hirafu to the canyons of Kurodake.Thursday, 4pm. The bank reconciles with the books.Road trip starts. Packed the night before. Avy gear?Check. Boots? Check. Captain Morgan rum? Check.Stanley Cup? Check. Pick the boys up. Time to go. We’vegot a long road ahead, but with a few iPods, a tightKurodake krew and dry roads, we’ll be there before weknow it. Destination: Kurodake. Four hours fromNiseko if the navigator is on top of it, the weatherco-operates, and you make sure you don’t put dieselinto your gasoline engine at the self-service gas station.If this happens, add on another four hours and ¥12,575to your journey (spoken from experience).It’s tough to leave Niseko, especially betweenJanuary and February when it snows almost everynight. The bars are going off, your work inbox is fulland you don’t want it to overflow, and nightly callsfrom friends planning the next day’s excursion toRusutsu or The Gash keep coming in. But, as you headout from Kutchan, the lights of Hirafu, the beats of thebar, the phone calls, the accents of the tourists, and thepressures of work slowly start fading away. A few sipsfrom The Captain and they really start fading quickly.Looking at the 3m-high snow banks as you passKiroro makes you wonder why you are traveling so farto get pow when it’s right there all around you. Maybeit isn’t only the pow we are looking for, maybesomething else is beckoning us? Descending into Otarufrom high above, we jump onto the expressway. Thetoll does cost an arm and two legs, but to me, issomething that I gladly lose limbs for, especially withthree other willing contributors on board. The onlytime I didn’t take the expressway almost resulted indivorce. Trust me, it’s worth the coin!Suddenly, we are racingpast Sapporo, the lights ofpachinko parlours, fastfood shops, and housingcomplexes all a blur. Thetemptation of both Susuand Kino (ie Sapporo partycentral) are calling ournames. Calls to hit theDaimaru Buffet for a quick ‘houdai’ (all you can eat) areheard from the back of the van. If that happened, therewas no way we’d make it any further that day. Thepassengers were pacified by the bottle of Captain andsoon the temptation and bright lights were a distantmemory. There would be time later. We move on.As we follow Hokkaido’s longest river, the Ishikari,to its source, we pass by all the of cities with the suffixmeaning river – ‘kawa’ or ‘gawa’ – tacked on to them:Sunagawa (sand river), Takikawa (waterfall river),Fukagawa (deep river), Asahikawa (beer river :)), andfinally Kamikawa (above river). The time rolls by. Wepass open plains, farming towns, numerous tunnels,and then some smaller mountains. The mini-StanleyCup comes out, the Captain is finished, the tunes getlouder, the van party is now in full effect. Ourdestination is within reach. The air becomes colder, thesnow starts falling, the wind picks up, the smallermountains give way to a deep gorge. Heading up intothe darkness, we are being guided by moonlight andthe almost gravitational pull of… that mountain.Finally, the hot spring hotels come into view, justlike any other hot spring town in Japan. But, as youturn the corner, there is something different – an icefestival is on, people are milling around, a small townwith an actual main, walking street is there. This is thehot spring town of Sounkyo. And, right across from thelodge that we are soon to dig out and heat up, is thecable car station. And there above it all looms BlackMountain. 10km north of us is the source of the river.We have arrived. But tomorrow morning our journeycontinues.The next morning left us with sore heads, theCaptain has definitely done his damage. We shook offthe cobwebs, while Seicomart breakfasts and cannedcoffees got us going. Blue skies and low winds had usfeeling even better. We were geared up and ready togo. At Kurodake, the ropeway whisks you up to1300m, then the chairlift takes you up to 1520m. Therest you have to earn. On this day, we wanted to get tothe top in order to complete the journey. Going upthe chairlift, the summit was in view, but the cloudswere moving a bit faster than we would’ve liked. Thewinds started to pick up, but we had done it before.Maybe they would ease?It is a good, steep, 90-minute hike to the 1984mpeak. The last 40 minutes forces you to traverse aharrowing ridge line where more than one person hasperished in the past. About an hour in, the winds reallystarted cranking. White out conditions wereimpending. The skins were no longer sticking to the icycrust. Conditions were rapidly deteriorating. I slippedand caught myself. We all looked at each other. Theanswer was in our eyes – the mountain had won today.However, this is a mountain where defeat is not a loss.The lingering hangover combined with the conditionscaused us to take a few extra minutes to transfer toriding mode, but we did it. So, we headed down,enjoying the deep pow we had earned, the sweet turnsthrough the trees, the natural half pipe hits, and steepchute at the bottom below the ropeway, ending at therun-out to a temple signifying out safe arrival at thebottom. We run into friends who are lapping theropeway runs, or taking lifestyle shots within the town.Home (Black Mountain Lodge) was across the street.The onsen, and an after beer at Beer Grill Canyon werewaiting for us. The mountain would be there fortomorrow, and the next day.Fast forward to Sunday, 1pm. Time to go home.Cabin fever. Convenience store foods. Tired limbs.Sticky party van. Mellow tunes. The cafes, friends andeven work in Niseko feel somewhat comforting. Wedescend from the source back to our destination. As wecome back over the pass from Otaru, the snow picksup. The lights of Hirafu appear in the distance. We slipsilently back into town, road-weary but pleasantlysatisfied. A deep sleep awaits. Sunday, 7pm. Missioncomplete.Do’s- Expect to get a few odd looks – youare in the wild, wild east!- Check out the ice festival (from theend of January until the end of March).- Get the ‘Onsen/Dinner Ticket’ for ¥980from Beer Grill Canyon, on the mainwalking street. Order the rainbow troutat Beer Grill Canyon for dinner.- Step back in time, play a game ofcards and drink a beer out of theStanley Cup at Bar 1984 in Black Mountain Lodge.- Gear up and turn back from climbing to the summit if weather is bad.- Realise there are cliffs, tight tree sections, no ski patrol and no rules – this is thelast frontier!- Go in the summer, and especially autumn when the colours are unreal.- Check out the town of Sounkyo and ponder how they have made the town lookso good – building restrictions on colours and materials have made it a cute town– even the 7-Eleven and Seicomart are painted a shade of brown.- From 09/10 stay at Black Mountain Lodge. It will be up and running with solidheating, après-bar/lounge, pool, and cheap accommodation.Don’t- Expect people to speak English even though signs are in English everywhere.- Climb the mountain solo. Or if you’ve never been, without a guide.- Go on a Wednesday – Beer Grill Canyon is closed.- Go in January if you want to ski/ride. It’s closed due to harsh weather and toomuch snow!- Stay at Black Mountain Lodge if you need your pillow fluffed or a cateredgourmet dinner. There are plenty of reasonably-priced hot spring hotels if that’swhat you’re after.- Miss the waterfalls 2km north of town, any time of year.InfoKurodake main website: http://www.rinyu.co.jp/kurodake/index.htmlSounkyo info: http://www.sounkyo.net/english/Sounkyo Visitor Centre: http://sounkyovc.town.kamikawa.hokkaido.jp/Black Mountain Lodge website: http://www.kurodakelodge.com/site/* Dale Riva has lived in Hokkaido for 11 years, and Niseko for three of those. Inbetween 20 years snowboarding, he is accounts manager for Niseko-based WestCanada Homes and The Niseko Company.26 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 27


photo essay T sapporoPowder posterrider Anton Green photo Chris Benny


A thousandwords...YEEHAW... Bevan Colless finds abig drop. Photo: Glen Claydon..ONE-ARMED MAN... Mike Richardspunches his way out of a powdercloud. Photo: Andy Laidlaw.BLUEBIRD.. Flying high inthe Hanazono half-pipe.Photo: Glen Claydon.SPRING HAS SPRUNG... Chooklaunches off a ripe mushroom.Photo: Niseko Photography.WHITEOUT... T-Roy powering through pow.Photo: Niseko Photography.UNDER COVER... Ian MacKenzie up tohis armpits. Photo: Mike Richards.SPRING... this is what it's all about.Photo: Niseko Photography.


Nick Jacksonpowder tracks T musicBy Nick JacksonPOWDERLIFE Cafe's barista and ourregular columnist, Nick Jackson, thisseason helped you to get to know localskiers and boarders – everything fromtheir ski/board setup to the tunes theylisten to on their iPod while ridingdown the hill. Nick has also offered hisunique, hilarious and sometimes justplain awkward music reviews onrecently released albums – the hot, thenot, and the absolute lemons. So, whatbetter way to wrap up the season thanto bring you the man behind Powder Tracks himself? Ladies and gentlemen (butmainly ladies), Mr Nick “I'm Sorry Miss” Jackson...NameBornStanceWidth/Angle:SetupTime in NisekoFavourite terrainHow many years riding?Favourite move on asnowboard?Nick Jackson06/12/1987, Masterton, New ZealandRegular59cm, 21 degrees front, 12 degrees rearCapita Mid-Life Theory – 155cm; Burton Cartel bindings11 monthsPark and Stirling Goldman deep powderOne year properly, but what a year it wasA big fat slash in pow, so big it blocks the sun and allthe Earth's creatures perish in permanent darkness2009: a year in reviewWHAT a year we've had. Powder Tracks' first year, and not a single death threat.We’ve had ups and downs, lows and highs, mispirnts and Nickelback. I would liketo apologise first up to one Andy Culvers, who isn’t 36 years old, nor is hissurname 'Gulverhouse' (sorry mate, I owe you a laaager). Secondly, I would liketo thank all the riders who appeared in Powder Tracks – you were all great. Also,thanks to all the record companies for allowing illegal downloads to be so easy toaccess – if it weren’t for you, <strong>Powderlife</strong> wouldn’t be printing such a tip-toparticle. Thanks to L. Ron Hubbard for making me laugh. Thanks to Niseko forhaving so much sick snow; this is the best resort in the world, and it is onlygetting better! There isn’t much more to say and no one else to piss off, sowithout further adieu, I present to you the writer of Powder Tracks Nick Jackson's'Top 20 Songs To Do Stuff To'. Keep listening and keep riding...Nick J’s Hottest 100...That Is Really 211. Death From Above 1979 – Blood OnOur Hands (Justice Remix)2. Digitalism – Pogo3. At The Drive In – Pattern AgainstUser4. Architecture In Helsinki – HoldMusic5. The Von Bondies – C’mon, C’mon6. Muscles – Ice Cream7. Does It Offend You, Yeah – Let’sMake Out8. Passion Pit – Sleepyhead9. The Avalanches – Since I Left You10. The Black Keys – 10am Automatic11. Bluejuice – Vitriol12. The Infadels – Love Like Symtex13. Silversun Pickups – Lazy Eye14. Black Keys – When The Lights Go Out15. Justice – DVNO16. Enter Shikari – Sorry You’re Not AWinner17. The Klaxons – Golden Skans18. N.E.R.D – Spaz19. New Young Pony Club – The Bomb20. Peter, Bjorn & John – Young Folks21. Will Smith – Gettin Jiggy Wit' It(honourable mention)24135www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 33


food T restaurant reviewRestaurant YoHurry Slowly on down to the LowerVillage, but don’t forget to bookrestaurant review T foodBy Kat and KimSekka Dining chefsNESTLED down in the Lower Village,tucked in behind pension Hurry Slowly,is Restaurant Yo. Yo is not any ordinaryrestaurant, serving traditional Japanesecuisine that you must book in advance.They only prepare the food for thebookings, so just dropping in won’t do,and with only four tables and abarbeque room, booking early isadvised.When you make the booking you’reasked which menu you’d like. On offeris the original menu at ¥3500 perperson. This consists of nine to 10dishes where you get to choose the starattraction from a beef sukiyaki course,a seafood course, a vegetable course,or a hand-rolled sushi course. Thenthere’s another option for Japanesebarbecue for ¥4500 per person. TheJapanese barbecue is served in thetraditional style, with a sunken hearthand coal flames. There are varieties ofmeat, seafood and vegetables for youto grill, and also served alongside thebarbecue is a hot pot, salad, sashimiand more. Then there is option F, BeefShabu Shabu, where you get a pot ofsimmering broth on the table to cookthe thinly sliced beef, which is thendipped into your favourite sauce.Served alongside the shabu-shabucourse you get temaki sushi, yakitoriand salad.As the barbecue room was bookedout, we opted for the ¥5500 specialcourse. Here you still get to choosefrom the previous four courses withthe addition of a few more premiumHokkaido specialties, such as Tarabacrab. We both agreed on the beefsukiyaki course.On arrival, we step through the doorinto a little stone garden which thenleads into the restaurant. We’re a littleearly (as we’re rather eager) but aregreeted warmly. Even the chef popsaround the corner to welcome us. We aretaken through to our table. Each table isoff in its own little separate room, andthe many small windows through to theother rooms ensure you feel private butnot isolated. As the food has alreadybeen ordered, the only decision you willhave to make is what to drink. Thesampler set of sakes – three verygenerous glasses, all with the nameinscribed underneath – is a great way toexperience the subtle differencesbetween good sakes, and get a feel forwhat you would like to continue theevening with. We both agreed ourfavourite was the Hakkisan, dry with alittle spice. Oishii! As we sip away, we’retreated to a clear view of the barbecueroom being set up for the lucky dinersstill to come. The delicious charcoalsmell through the restaurant isintoxicating, so we will definitely be backfor barbecue soon.The first dish of the evening is a smallplate of zensai (Japanese hors d'œuvre),some small school prawns, cream cheesewith bonito and nori (dried seaweed), andfour plump edamame (soybeans in thepod) with a sprinkle of togarashi (chilli).The plate displays the Japanese art ofbeauty from simplicity. After we havesavoured the zensai, a small flame is litunder a stone cooker in front of each ofus. Under the lid, mushrooms, tofu, negi(spring onion), onion, Japanese herbs andthe famous wagyu beef sit in a littlebroth, gently heating until cooked, with araw egg on the side to dip in to. It wasrecommended we wait until the flamedied out before diving in, but the smellwafting out from under the lid was a littletoo much to bear. We may have actuallyfinished the dish before the flame evenhad a chance to die. The following dish, asalad of prosciutto, peppers and mitzuna,is light and refreshing.Then a lidded pot is brought forth.The lid is lifted and a square of tofucovered in a crab sauce is unveiled.Again the aroma leaps out and dragsyou in. The tofu, silky soft, takes thesubtle flavour from the crab excellently.The next dish in the progression is a bitof a 'do-it-yourself-er'. A small grill,covered in kanji and filled with glowingcoals, lands on the table followed by atray of goodness – the goodness beingokra, shitake mushrooms, Hokkaidodiver scallop, Taraba crab leg andwagyu beef. The idea is to grill eachpiece to your liking, then dip it in to thewaiting wasabi, salt or lemon. It’s justlike cooking on a barbecue, only insideand at a table. The crab is phenomenal,the taraba is juicy and sweet, and theflesh from the legs just keeps oncoming. The wagyu beef (cookedmedium-rare to perfection, thankschef!) left the feeling of umami(delicousness) that lasted and lasted.A trio of nigiri sushi appeared quicklyafter the grill was removed, the riceshaped into little rounds, which wereoh-so-cute. A nice change from themore traditional rectangle shape. Theywere topped with salmon, eel andscallop, still warm from the cookerand seasoned just so. As the last nigiridisappeared, a plate of ultra-freshsashimi filled its place. More scallopand salmon, this time accompaniedwith tuna, snapper and prawn. Wewere both still trying to get our headaround the whole raw prawn (it’s atexture thing).By now we were starting to feelcontent, but there were still threecourses to come. The first was a piecewhitefish with sautéed Japanesegreens and wild mushrooms – again,beautiful in its simplicity. Then, abraised pork belly, so tender and fullof flavour. Japanese pork can reallymake you do a double take on howmuch flavour it can have. The bellywas topped with a dab of hotJapanese mustard to cut the richness.Finally, a slice of adzuki (small redbean) and chestnut cakes with a cupof Japanese tea. The cakes weredelicate and, with the tea, a perfectend to a meal when you just need amouthful of something sweet tofinish off.Feeling happily content wewandered off into the snow, knowingthe next time we come we’ll behurrying not too slowly as we knowwhat’s waiting.For more great reviews and awhole lot more about food, checkout Kat and Kim's blog @www.bigfoodsmallworld.blogspot.com.AUSTRALIAN BOTTLESHOP PRICES Top quality Western Australian wine Delivered to your Nisekoaccommodation next day Pay in $AUD on your credit card No fees, no conversionsEnquire about Japan based Membershipor wholesale buyingwww.nisekowinesupply.com Tel: 080 6066 432134 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 35


food T japanese recipeSalada UdonBy Tess Stomski and Sachiko Kageyama from Niseko GourmetOVER winter you may have found yourself eating a hot dish of udon noodles, however moving into spring andsummer, it is more popular in Japan to eat cold noodle dishes. Salada Udon is a popular modern Japanesedish eaten mainly in the summer months.Traditionally Udon noodles are made from kneading flour, salt and water which results in a thick whitenoodle. As you may know, Kutchan is famous for its potatoes with its mascot being the skiing potato boy,Jagata Kun. To make use of its famous potatoes, Kutchan produces an udon noodle made from potato starchinstead of the traditional flour noodles. Pictured below, these are a delicious alternative to the traditionalflour noodles and are available in supermarkets throughout Kutchan.Ingredients:400g udon noodles2 small cans canned tuna (or crab meat, ham,chicken etc), drained¼ lettuce1 cucumber2 medium sized tomatoes1 avocado5 shiso leavesMayonnaise to tasteSesame seeds to tasteYou can substitute other vegetables into thesalad, for example bean sprouts or broccoli.Dressing5 tablespoons soy sauce5 tablespoons water4 tablespoons mirin2 tablespoons vinegar3 tablespoons lemon juice1 tablespoon sea kelp stock3 tablespoons sesame oilSalt and pepper to tasteMethod1. Cut the lettuce into bite-size pieces andjulienne cut the cucumber and shiso leaves. Dicethe tomato and avocado.2. Add the dressing ingredients into a bowl andwhisk to combine.3. Bring a pot of water to the boil and cook theudon noodles to al dente. Drain the noodles, andrice under cold running water. Leave to cool incold water.4. Drain the water really well and place onto adeep serving dish.5. On top of the noodles place the lettuce,cucumber, tomato, avocado, and tuna. Sprinklethe shiso herb on top. Shiso can also besubstituted with coriander.6. Pour the dressing over the salad, and decoratewith mayonnaise and sesame seeds to taste.Itadakimasu!343Enjoy great food anytime of day in a family friendly atmosphere.Breakfast, Lunch, Apres Ski and of course Dinner.36 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 37


safety T niseko survival guideNiseko Survival Guide:Surviving the VillageBy Matthew ThomasIT'S easy to get so wrapped up in the winterwonderment of Niseko that you forget all aboutcommon sense.Caution obviously needs to be considered while onthe mountain, and certainly when outside thebackcountry gates. However, tourists who visit Nisekofrom warmer, more familiar home climes often aren'taware that it’s worth considering your personal safetywhen simply getting around town. While there’sgenerally no life-threatening dangers, there are a fewthings you need to be made aware of that you may nothave otherwise considered.Besides physical dangers, cultural differences canmake it hard to simply achieve what you want... andsometimes this can be downright frustrating! With thatsaid, <strong>Powderlife</strong> has compiled this ‘village survivalguide’ to hopefully keep you safe, while also allowingyou to understand Niseko that little bit better...Stay safe...Don't ski/board on the roads or footpaths:It may seem fun and so much quicker and easier thanwalking, but skiing or boarding home from the hill canbe one of the silliest things you can do in Niseko.Because the roads don’t have as much snow on them,and generally a lot of ice, your skis or board won’t reactlike they do on the mountain. So where on the hill youmight be able to stop within a couple of metres beforehitting that beginner skier who’s just veered wildly infront of you, on the road, instead of stopping you couldvery easily find yourself skidding underneath a bus that’sjust pulled out in front of you. For the drivers, it's hardenough driving in the snowy, icy, white-out conditionswithout having to worry about dodging out of controlskiers and boarders. Please, keep your riding on the hill!Don’t walk or park under roofs:During your stay in Niseko,you may have noticedsnow falling from roofs.This may look impressive,but can be very dangerous– notice the thud whenthe load hits the ground.Niseko gets massiveamounts of snow duringwinter, and despiteappearances, it’s very heavy. Believe it or not, snowsliding from rooftops kills people in this part of theworld, and can seriously damage cars.Walking on icy roads and footpaths:Niseko's footpaths and roads can be sometimes like anice skating rink – especially after a nighttime freezefollows a daytime melt. Joggers or sneakers from homejust won't cut it, so you'll need good pair of snow bootswith plenty of tread (gumboots will also do the job, andkeep your feet dry), orfailing that a pair of snowcleats or spikes that youcan clip onto your shoes(which you can buy fromany number of ski stores intown).Other tips we can giveyou are: for balance, don'twalk with hands in your pockets so you can braceyourself for a fall – wear gloves to keep your handswarm instead; take smaller steps; and don't carryheavy loads – if you fall, throw goods in the air andprotect yourself, not your goods. It should go withoutsaying, but don't slide down slippery, steep sections ofice to show off!Also, when crossing the road, factor in that the roadsare icy and slippery and that it will take cars longer tostop for you.Driving on icy roads:Niseko is well serviced byinter-resort buses, whichare the safest, cheapestand easiest mode oftransport in the area.These resort buses are freefor mountain pass holders.There are also regular buses into Kutchan. But if youinsist on driving, make sure you drive to the conditionsand always be in control. Icy, snowy, white-outconditions can be a nightmare to drive in. Every driverhere will be able to tell frightening stories aboutcompletely losing control of their car on 'black ice'. Fora detailed feature on how to drive safely in Niseko,refer to your copy of <strong>Powderlife</strong> Issue 13’s NisekoSurvival Guide, or find it online at www.powderlife.com/_issues/powderlife13web.pdf.Don't leave bars alone:If you're going drinking, make sure you leave the barwith someone else and try not to walk home alone.Also make sure you rug up and stay warm. People havebeen known to fall asleep in the snow in Niseko,although so far there have been no confirmedfatalities. This season's case of a tourist going missingunder these circumstances have reaffirmed thesedangers, so please do the right thing by yourself, andyour friends.Making life easier...Cash out?:Yes, we all know Hirafuneeds an ATM, but at themoment there are nointernational machineshere. If you are a touristand want to take cashfrom a home account, youwill need to go toKutchan's post office,which is open 8.45am-7pm weekdays, and 9am-5pm on weekends or publicholidays. You can alsotake cash at the 7-11 nearKutchan Station, or on thethird floor of ChitoseAirport. Most cards withCirrus and PLUS marks are accepted, but round-corneredcards are not.At your convenience:There are two convenience stores in town for all yourlocal shopping needs. The iconic Seicomart in the heartof Hirafu is arguably king, but Lawson, the blue shopjust down the road towards Kutchan, is another optionthat offers smaller queues and a larger range ofinternational products.Kutchan has shopping covered:Several specialty stores inKutchan may also come inhandy when you wish toexpand from the stock inSeicomart or Lawson. BestDenki stocks all yourtechnical needs frommemory sticks andexternal hard drives toheaters and fans.M-Pocket has importedgroceries, specialising inimported alcohol. Homacshelves basically everyhousehold product known to man, while Max Value isyour best option as far as big supermarket chains go.The ¥100 Shop stocks cheap groceries, stationery andmore priced around...you guessed it...¥100. There areno pharmacies or stationery stores in Hirafu, butseveral in Kutchan, such as the Tsuruha Drug. TheCo-Op, located next to Kutchan Station, is both adepartment store and supermarket (a hot tip: theCo-Op's perfect for tracking down the perfect littlenumber for any kind of fancy dress party!).Best bet is just to head out to Kutchan and have awalk around; there are plenty of little shops, cafes,restaurants, bars and more hidden about this quaintyet vibrant little town that will make your trip better,easier or just plain memorable.For a map of Kutchan check the 'K-Town' sectiontowards the back of every <strong>Powderlife</strong>.Watch your jacket:Although Japan is renowned for its impressive lowcrime rate, which is especially the case in rural Niseko,things do get stolen – it would appear to be byforeigners, rather than local Japanese. Jackets are oneof the main targets of thieves, who have been knownto steal from bars. A domino effect is also known tohappen, whereby someone has their jacket stolen andthen they take somebody else's to make up for it. Inthis case, it's not uncommon for many jackets to gomissing in a single night. So, make sure you keep yourjacket in a cloak room if there is one, or just try to keepall your friends' jackets together and do your best tokeep your eyes on them.Also, it might be worth investing in a padlock foryour skis or board. While it is rare for your gear to getstolen here (many locals never even lock their doors orwindows in Niseko!), it only takes one bad person tospoil the party for everyone. Most Japanese people areextremely honest and will go out of their way to returna lost or misplaced item.For your information:The Niseko Grand HirafuWelcome Centre at themain bus stop in Hirafuparking lot has a widerange of brochures andtransport information.They can also help withaccommodation in caseyou've arrived withoutmaking a booking. Call0136-22-0109 .The Hirafu SafetyInformation Centre nextdoor to the Seicomart is a‘koban’ police box which also doubles as a touristinformation office. Drop in anytime for directions orany other needs or give them a call on 0136 22 5878 .Meanwhile, the Kutchan Tourist Information Centre,located on Eki-mae Dori opposite the Best Denki,provides an excellent English-speaking service forvisitors. They can be contacted on 0136-22-1121 .38 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com


community T in focusIn Focus...Masanobu SaitoInterview by Yuri HamadaHAVE you experienced the aroma andflavour of juicy yakitori skewers? Niseko’sfamous yakitori izakaya owner,Masanobu Saito, came to Niseko all theway from Kyushu 34 years ago, andquickly became famous for hisrestaurant, Bang Bang. Masanobuinvited <strong>Powderlife</strong> to his cozy restaurantto talk about his love for Niseko, skiingand the community.What brought you to Niseko?I’m originally from Saga, Kyushu andgrew up near the ocean. Out of the blue,I decided I wanted to give skiing a tryand some of my friends told me to go toNiseko. That was 34 years ago. When Icame here for the first time, I worked atseveral pensions as a seasonal workerlike so many young people now in town.After 10 years of living in Niseko, I feltNiseko was becoming my new home. So,24 years ago I bought some land andopened my restaurant as a way to makea living. Also, at that time there were noplaces to go for a drink or to eat in town,so I thought opening an Izakaya wouldgive local people a place to hang outafter a hard day’s work.What was Niseko like then?It was a much smaller resort than it isnow, but we still had many domestictourists and they brought a good amountof energy to the town. I’m sure it’s hardto believe that at that time there wereonly 10 accommodation houses andmaybe only two restaurants in the resort.One other difference that might bedifficult for people to imagine was thesnow. Back then I remember the snowwas surprisingly much lighter and fluffierthan the powder snow that we havetoday. On top of that, it snowedconstantly from the beginning ofDecember to May. This was an incrediblesight for someone who grew up insouthern Japan.Had you run a restaurant before?What is your philosophy behindyour restaurant?To tell you the truth, this is my firstrestaurant. I wanted to open a cozy placefor people to hang out. I thought yakitoricould be good. From eating yakitori withyour fingers to watching the chef cook,this izakaya ambience makes peoplerelax. My main philosophy in runningBang Bang is to make sure my customersare happier than when they first walkedthrough the door. By the end of thenight I can guarantee two things: I’vetalked to everyone in the house, andeveryone will leave with a smile.We heard that you are a big skier.Do you still ski often?Absolutely! Skiing is the reason that I amhere. I started alpine skiing 34 years ago.Alpine skiing is fun but I enjoy going offpiste,and I wanted to enjoy Niseko’sbeauty while skiing, so I started telemarkskiing 16 years ago. While telemarking,you see so many small details in thenatural surrounding, like birds flying orrabbits running, because your line of siteis closer to the snow. Also, the addedversatility makes it easier to finduntracked lines. Who needs a stairway –the mountain is heaven enough for me!What do you do during summer?I usually go back to Kyushu for two weeks,and after that I keep myself busy enjoyingsummer activities, such as climbing,fishing, paragliding and so much more. Ilove exploring nature, so I often go into thewoods to try to find my own place to relax;somewhere no one has found before.What do you think about theinternationalisation of Niseko?I think it is great. When Niseko was justbeginning to grow as an international skiresort, the locals had some difficultycommunicating with and understandingdifferent cultures. Nowadays both localsand tourists put so much effort intounderstanding each other by learningboth language and culture. I think we doa great job of meeting in the middlewithout letting our own background fade.This creates the unique culture that wesee in Niseko today.What do you see in the futurefor Niseko?A lot more development on the way,which could lead Niseko to become aprohibitively expensive ski resort. I wouldlike to see Niseko as an affordable placeto live. Nowadays, so many skilled andtalented young and old people are leavingbecause of the expensive cost of living.I’m sure these developments could turnNiseko into an even nicer ski resort, but atthe same time I would love to see all mycustomers come back here year after year.What are your top three tips forvisitors to Niseko?1. Explore the mountain and findyourself off-piste.2. Appreciate the locals, the localbusinesses and their great hospitality.3. Admire the views of Niseko, and thegreat personalities found in the variedstyles of housing.40 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com


how to T learning japaneseJapanese for powder peopleby studio tdesLesson 8: WorkingHAVE you fallen in love with Niseko? Or perhaps in Niseko? Many tourists in Nisekospend part of their holiday thinking about how they can afford to come back. Sellthe car? Get a second job? If you can get the appropriate visa, spending a seasonworking in Niseko is also an option. This is one of the few places in Japan where it’spossible to work in the service industry without speaking Japanese! Still, even ifyour workplace is aimed at English-speaking tourists, you’ll get at least a fewJapanese customers – or have some Japanese co-workers – so why waste anexcellent language opportunity? In today’s lesson there’s some language forworkers to use – and for customers to understand. And remember, if all thislanguage seems to flow through your sieve-like brain, smiles and gestures do go along way 1. いらっしゃいませ Irasshai masehello, welcomeWhen people walk into your shop, baror restaurant, greet them with:Irasshai mase! The volume rangesfrom a hearty bellow/squawk tonormal talking level, depending on thekind of establishment. Customers arenot usually expected to reply toirasshai mase, but if they do greet youwith something like konnichi wa, you should then return the greeting.2. 何 名 様 ですか? Nan mei sama desu ka?How many people are there in your group?When people arrive at your izakaya or restaurant, you’ll need to find out how bigtheir group is: Nan mei sama desu ka? If it seems obvious how many peoplethere is, you can just check: Ni mei sama desu ka? (Table for two?) Your nextquestion is likely to be: Goyoyaku itadaite masu ka? (Do you have a booking?)3. どうぞ、こちらです Douzo kochiradesuPlease sit here, this way pleaseWhen you’ve decided where you wantthe customers to sit, gesture towardsthe table and say: Douzo, kochiradesu. If you’ve scored a job in one ofthe classier Niseko joints, you mayneed to use this: Uwagi o oazukarishimashyou ka? (May I take your coat?)4. お 飲 み 物 は、お 決 まりでしょうか? Onomimono wa okimari deshou ka?What would you like to drink?The verb to drink in Japanese is nomu. A drink is nominomo, or onomimono(you can whack an o in front of many words in Japanese to make them moreformal). After you’ve given out the menus, ask them if they’ve decided whatthey’d like to drink: Onomimono wa okimari deshou ka? A bit later on ask forthe food order: Oshokuji wa okimari deshou ka? You might like to repeat theorder back to them, to make sure you’ve got it right: Gochumon o kurikaeshimasu … (I’ll just repeat that back to you … ) Finally, before you head off tothe kitchen, you could say: Ijou de yoroshii deshou ka? (Is that all?)5. かしこまりました KashikomarimashitaCertainly.When a customer orders somethingyou can say: Kashikomari mashita(Certainly). When you’re workingbehind a bar you can also just repeatthe order back to them with a desu neattached. Biiru futasu onegaishimasu(Two beers, please). Biiru futasu desune (Two beers, coming right up!)6. 申 し 訳 ございません Moushiwake gozaimasenI’m terribly sorry.Need more practice?learning japanese T how toApologizing is hugely important in the service industry in Japan – especially ifyou can’t speak Japanese! You probably know how to say sorry with sumimasenor gomen nasai. But how about when you’re working? When speaking tocustomers, the more formal: moushiwake gozaimasen is usually moreappropriate. Say it if you have run out of something on the menu, or you spill adrink on a customer. If a punter in your bar is making rambling, nonsensicalcomplaints, just keep bowing and saying moushiwake gozaimasen until theyleave.7. どうぞ DouzoHere you go.When you give customers a plate offood or drink, you can simply saydouzo (Here you go). If it’s food that isto be shared (like at an izakaya), justannounce what it is when you’reputting it on the table: Eda mamedesu (This is eda mame). If the foodshould be delivered to a certain person, you can ask like this: Soba nookyakusama? (Who ordered the soba?)8. お 下 げしてよろしいですか? Osageshite yoroshii desu ka?Can I take these?If you’re working in an izakaya or a Japanese restaurant, you don’t need to whipaway the plates as soon as customers have finished eating – that’s not Japanesestyle. When you do pick up some glasses or plates and you’re not sure if thecustomer has finished eating, say: Osageshite yoroshii desu ka? (Is it OK if Itake this?)9. 分 かりません WakarimasenI don’t understand.In case you try your best with numbers 1-8, but can’t understand the rapid-fireJapanese that’s coming back, perhaps you’d better learn this: Wakarimasen (Idon’t understand). If you’re a complete beginner, your shoddy pronunciation andclueless expression will no doubt make it obvious, but you could announce itanyway: Nihongo dekimasen (I can’t speak Japanese). This could also be useful:Shoushou omachi kudasai, nihongo dekiru hito o yonde kimasu. (Please waitwhile I go and get someone who can speak Japanese). If that’s too long toremember, at least say: Chotto matte (Hang on a second) before you run away,or they might think you’re not coming back!10. お 疲 れ 様 でした Otsukare sama deshitaWell done, good job etcThis is a very important word to know if you have Japanese co-workers. Say thisto them as they are leaving, or before you leave. You can also use it when they’vejust completed an arduous task such as clearing snow, lifting heavy boxes ortalking to an imbecilic customer. There’s a short version that you can use withfriends and co-workers: otsukare! If you’re an instructor say otsukare samadeshita to your students at the end of the lesson.Pronunciation guide: Since this magazine can’t talk, your best bet is to find a Japaneseperson and ask them to say the words and repeat after them. Then buy them a beerstudio tdes produces a daily online English language show, based in Kutchan:www.thedailyenglishshow.comHave fun learning basic Japanese every Sunday afternoon with tdes. Weteach useful words and phrases for English-speaking tourists in Niseko.Day: Every SundayPlace: Samurai Bar, Niseko Yurt VillageTime: 4pm to 5pmEntry: 1000 yen (includes 1 drink)More info: thedailyenglishshow.com/nisekojapanese42 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 43


neighbourhood T kutchan k-town8:00am ~ 8:00pm [closed on tuesdays] ph: 0136-22-0050Introducing KutchanWHILE Niseko becomes a thriving modern international ski resort inwinter, just a 10-minute bus ride away is an authentic little rural Japanesetown, Kutchan – affectionately known by foreigners as 'K-town'. It’s theclosest ‘big’ town to Niseko with a population of about 15,000 people.Kutchan is the service town for surrounding rural villages in the region,including Niseko, but in years gone by it has been quite a thriving littleentertainment district on the back of past ski booms. Kutchan’s nightlifethese days is pretty tame compared to what most foreigner visitors wouldbe used to, but therein lies its charm. For the younger crowd at least onenight exploring the back alleys of Kutchan for a quirky little bar or karaokejoint is a must – it could well be one of the best experiences of your trip.For those not after a party, there are countless – possibly a hundred ormore – unique little restaurants to choose from.For ideas about where to head check out www.powderlife.com/magazine/kutchanFor bus timetable information, visit the information centre, next to SeicomartA history of 'K-Town'By Matthew Thomaskutchan k-town T neighborhoodWHEN Hanpai Abe and about 16 other explorershappened upon Kutchan in the year 1892, it was thedense, lush forest wilds of the area that possessedpromise for settlement.As it turns out, these settlers from Tokushimaprefecture, on Shikoku island – who had only recentlysettled in the nearby Yoichi – were right. Thanks to thefertile land, equating to about 260sq km, the population of Kutchan swelled toaround 10,000 by 1903, after it was separated from Abuta village in 1893. Thepopulation has risen to the current approximate 16,000 permanent residentssince 1903, with a density of about 62 people per sq km.Settlement in Kutchan – now affectionately known as 'K-Town' by foreigners –wouldn't have been a difficult decision for Abe-san and Co., thanks to the areabeing surrounded by picturesque mountain ranges, it being located just north ofthe iconic semi-dormant volcano Mt Yotei, all the while sitting on the ShiribetsuRiver, one of the most pristine sources of water in all of Japan. In fact, the word'Kutchan' originates from the indigenous Ainu language, and it is said thephonetically equivalent kanji comes from the word 'Kut-Shan-i', which means'the place where the channel flows'. Others claim the name is derived from'kucha-an-nai', meaning 'stream of a hunting lodge'.As expected and intended by its settlers, Kutchan's main industry becameagriculture. Local specialties include potatoes, melon, sake, short-grain white riceand udon noodles made from potato flour. Grain, corn, kidney and soy beans,and wheat also thrive in Kutchan climes. Agricultural success can be generallyattributed to fertile volcanic soils and the area's four distinct seasons, rangingfrom a cool, dry alpine summer to a cold winter, with some of the heaviestsnowfalls in all of Hokkaido.After harnessing many of the nearby Niseko ranges, mainly Mt Annupuri,along with other natural wonders, Kutchan was also soon able to profit fromoutdoor sports like skiing and snowboarding, rafting, golf, cycling, mountainbiking, fly fishing, paragliding and hiking – attracting tourists from within andoutside Japan. Logically, Kutchan's two most celebrated aspects – skiing andpotatoes – are recognised simultaneously by a jolly-looking cartoon town mascotnamed Jagata-kun (above right), a title that roughly translates into 'little, fatpotato boy'. Other symbols of Kutchan include the town tree, the Itaya Maple(bottom right), and the town flower, the Yellow Rhododendron(upper bottom right).A major historical turning point for Kutchan was the town becoming thecapital of the Shiribeshi sub-prefecture, thanks mainly to its comprehensivegovernmental offices. A national train servicing the area also increased Kutchan'sesteem as a self-sufficient and accessible township. Rail company JR Hokkaidoplans to include Kutchan in its planned Hokkaido Shinkansen (bullet train)service by 2020, which could be announced as early as March next year, andwould connect the town to Honshū and, consequently, Tokyo.As the main regional centre of population, Kutchan hosts a variety of culturalinstitutions and events. The town is home to two museums, the Kutchan NaturalHistory Museum and the Shu Ogawara Art Museum. The town also hosts theannual Kutchan Jazz Festival every July, drawing thousands to enjoy the music ofJapanese and international musicians.Kutchan's sister city is St Moritz in Switzerland, and has been since 1964. Manywill have noticed a neighbourhood in Hirafu not coincidentally named St Moritz.In 1991, Kutchan and its residents celebrated their 100-year anniversary.44 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 45


humour T men who ride mountainsMen Who Ride MountainsBy Stirling GoldmanHAILING from the extreme terrain of Mt Baw Baw in Australia, Stirling Goldmanwas bred on waist-deep, man-made powder and extra steep chutes. Stirling hasconquered the most beastly mountains across the world, and recently moved toNiseko. Stirling soon sensed that both local and international punters needed tobe taught a thing or two and luckily for us, has decided to settle here for good.Stirling Goldman: a man who rides mountains.2008-2009. Another stellar year in the CVof SG. <strong>Powderlife</strong> have yet again asked meto write an article, this time about myon-and-off-piste conquests during theseason. I laughed at first, as a) I really didnot fancy writing a thesis - I mean, thereare far too many conquests to writeabout; and b) I’m a busy man with manypowder and female commitments.So I have penned together a quick top 10.They may be numerically listed, but makeno mistake, these achievements are allequally as impressive as each other.10 My 210 Blizzards and rear-entryNordicas. It would not be a true seasonwithout reference to my trustyequipment. The longevity and ongoingperformance of them never ceases toamaze me – much like myself.9 My ability to ski, consume 48 beers pernight, and serenade the ladies. I reallyam some sort of a deity within Niseko.Sometimes I feel I should be awarded‘8th Wonder of the World’ status.8 The launch of my Goldman Grill, theportable barbecue you can takeanywhere whether it be a Niseko winteror an Aussie summer. It sure is a winner.I’ve heard worldwide sales are steady,despite the economic downturn.7 My single, ‘I Just Wanna Ride with Stirls’going platinum on the ARIA charts. Ofcourse I never had any doubts it would.Rumour has it they want me as part of thenext Big Day Out festival tour, and if that'sthe case, they'd better increase security.6 Those two Slovenian ladies… the onlyday on the hill I missed. Enough said.You figure it out – it’s not rocket surgery.5 Bringing out the scuba gear whiledropping the Annupuri Backbowls onone ski... backwards. Always afavourite, season in, season out. Theimpressed look on bystanders' faces asthey watch in awe makes it all themore worthwhile.4 Being challenged to a beer-off by twoYanks. I think they got to seven and thenhad to be carried out by bar staff.Goldman had hardly worked up a sweat.Worse still, they were wanting to drinkthat beer-flavoured water they call Bud –possibly the worst beer ever made.3 Being asked to be an honorarymember of the Japanese Skiing Hall ofFame. A true honour in my illustriouscareer. The only gaijin ever to achieve it.This one will be locked in the memorybank forever.2 The Aussie, the Irish and the twoScandinavians... no one does it better thanGoldman. Again, you figure it out, butthere was more than enough of Goldmanto go around. Even had beers still beingserved throughout. And, most impressively,made first tracks the next morning.1 My body and ridiculous good looks.Call it what you want – priceless,timeless, a sponsors dream. The list goeson. Appreciated by women, desired bymen, and of course produced, by one SG.Enjoy the off season. Ladies, I’ll see yousoon. Fellas, keep on trying. Catch youall next year. Signing out for 08/09,S. Goldman.Q: Stirling, many of your sponsors andcash cows are winter-related... Excuseme for asking, but I'm curious, howdo you get by for work and cash in theoff season? - Sally, USA: Sally, Sally, Sally. Clearly you have notseen me with my shirt off. I have a bodythat is made for summer products.Speedo have tried to sign me numeroustimes and I already do a bit of work withArnette sunglasses. The problem is I tendto just chase the winters in search ofpowder snow, so there is no real need forthe summer market. Mt Baw Baw sortsme out in the Niseko off season. Andthere is no off season with the ladies.Sally, when it comes to Goldman, all youwant to do is ride around, Sally, riiiiide,Sally riiiiide!Q: Stirling, you’ve got an interestingname. Where are you from? -Slobodan, HungaryA: Well Savos Slobster, it is interestingyou ask. I hail from the great Mount BawBaw – but you already know that. Butsome of my family actually comes fromHungary, too. Yes back in the day, oldSG’s ancestors used to cut their tradeback in the ‘Pest’ (Budapest). Great place,Slobbo. Actually managed to get backthere a couple of years ago. Let’s just sayI enjoyed sampling the local ‘cuisine’with my paprika.Q: You've been in Niseko for many,many years...This year's snow has beenpretty average, no? What are yourpredictions for the 2009-10 winter, ohwise one? XOX - Helga, Sweden.Helga, I don’t like to predict things. I justgo with the flow. Carpe diem, Helga. SGlikes to live for the moment. Noclairvoyants for him. The truth is, Helga,even when the snow is average I go soextreme that I still find parts that requirea snorkel, and quite often the full-blownscuba gear. Helga, Niseko’s snow is likesex: even when its bad, it’s still good…very good if it’s with me. Speaking ofwhich, Helga, if I am to predict one thingfor 2009-10, it would be a pretty safe betthat you may at some stage be locked intosome nocturnal time with SG. But you canask your Swedish predecessors if you wanta heads up on how good it really is.46 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 47


eal estate T real estate newsBy Lorne CalhounThe Vale progresses,naysayers silencedWHILE the leaves on the trees are yet to sprout, therecommencement of work on The Vale constructionsite is a sure sign spring is on the way.Nisade Chairman Jonathan Martin said he washappy to silence the naysayers with therecommencement of the construction.“This will put to rest the endless andunfortunate rumours that the site is notproceeding,” Martin said.The world economic crisis has put pressure onNiseko developers, and there has beenspeculation The Vale may become a casualtymid-way through construction.Martin said that with completion scheduled forDecember 6, work would reach capacity in earlyApril with the first concrete pour.After that, the structure would go up at the rateof a one storey every two weeks, so by August the‘bones’ of the building would be up, he said.Commercialproperty on the upWITH Japanese prime time shows praising Niseko forits culinary diversity, commercial restaurant propertyin upper Hirafu is maintaining strong interest.Most recent construction projects in the UpperVillage are now being built, with the ground levelreserved for commercial ventures, and these spacesdon’t tend to stay on the market for long.“We’re seeing renewed interest in commercialproperty in Hirafu,” Niseko Property managing directorRuskin McLennan said. “We’ve got contracts on two ofthe major restaurants in Niseko. These sites have beensnapped up by expats living in Japan and Hong Kong.”The Vale project, which won’t finish constructionuntil December of this year, has the commercial areaof its development already spoken for, said Nisadechairman Jonathan Martin. The restaurant and bar, tobe named The Vale Bar and Grill, is to be headed upby renowned Hong Kong restaurateurs Wayne andBrian Parfitt, who are well-known for their HKestablishments, Wagyu, and Jaspers,” he said.Strong yen attractsJapanese investorsYEN buyers are looking to take advantage of thecurrent market conditions and make a move onNiseko investments.The strength of the yen and the current economicclimate has moved some sellers to reconsider theirplacing in the international market. This in turn hasopened doors to local buyers less affected byinternational exchange rates.Ben Kerr, managing director of Niseko Real Estate,is one of the people on the ground who has noticedthis shift in interest first-hand.“The negative press in Japan has caught the eyeof Japanese investors, and we’re getting a someenquiries at the moment,” he said.“They’re not buying willy nilly like the Aussies afew years ago, but they’re having a good look.“The prices have come down so it makes sense ina Japanese mindset.“We are currently receiving more business andindividual Japanese enquiries than western.”Going green tostay in the gameGREEN building methods are a focus for many of thethose involved in Niseko’s recent architecture.From the use of local materials to eco-energysources, builders and designers in Niseko areanswering this call.The Forest development, designed by architectRiccardo Tossani, was built with a focus on a largeamount of supplies resourced from local avenues.“Natural materials are used extensively inside andout,” Tossani said. “The floors and internal andexternal walls all use Hokkaido Sugi cedar.Consideration was given to everything down to thelandscaping materials of native trees and grasses.”Matt Jones from Niseko RDC said is company wasworking on implementing multiple eco-friendlyenergy techniques on the new 260 Degrees project.“The house is completely eco-powered and heated,”he said. The heat and energy required come fromrenewable resources, such as 52 solar panels on theroof and 20 geothermal bore holes.”Niseko's future safe,but tough times stillaheadBy Matthew ThomasNISEKO'S real estate market built itself up into aseemingly invincible force, until this season.In 2008-09, after around seven years ofmomentum, the town's real estate trade experiencedits first correction in response to the global financialcrisis, a strong yen and a weak Australian dollar.<strong>Powderlife</strong> spoke to several local real estatefigureheads, who all remain confident that, in thelong term, Niseko will bounce back to the prosperousdays of old.Many remain unsure about the short-to-mid-termforecast for the ski town, but what most agree on isthe tough times aren't over just yet.The first person to open a bilingual estate agencyin town, Niseko Real Estate managing director BenKerr, predicts that nothing much will change locally inreal estate for at least the next 12-18 months.“This winter we sold very little real estate, and it'smy feeling that next winter will be quiet again,” Kerrsaid, who began NRE about seven years ago.“It's my guess that the current level of the yen is notsustainable and will drop a little, so even if the worldeconomy gets slightly worse because the yen's going tobe cheaper, it will be easier for us to make sales.”Kerr also tipped a few changes to Niseko's keymarket targets.“We'll always have Aussies coming across if we givethem good nightly rates and the yen doesn't doanything too silly,” he said.“We'll also always have expats coming fromthroughout Asia to ski because of the good snow,but I also see a growing Japanese ski populationcoming through, who will stay for three or fournights in condominiums - a trend that's here nowin Hirafu.“NRE is going to batten down and ride it out, whileadapting to that changing Japanese market."Niseko Property managing director RuskinMcLennan agreed with several of Kerr's thoughts,adding that Niseko would see an increasing numberof Asian developers entering the market in thecoming months and years.He also believes the number of new developmentsin Niseko will slow substantially.“Consequently, we will see land values fall from thepeaks of 12 months ago, and an increased focus onthe resale market,” McLennan said.Hokkaido Real Estate managing director JasonKing also foresees a drop in the development andconstruction markets due to falling propertyresale values.He said the three-year outlook for Niseko had manyvariables, such as 'exchange rates, the world economyand when Richard Li kicks off his Hanazonoredevelopment'.“Within the next year the price-reduced propertieswill sell, and then a fresh market can be established,”King said.“With a slowdown in construction, building pricesshould also return to the lower levels of five yearsago, which will all be part of the new pricingmechanism.“In any case, there are plenty of resales available,and at very reasonable prices, so it is hard to imaginethat developers will be able to compete with thelower price points for a year or so.”real estate news T real estatePhoto: Niseko PhotographyPresident of West Canada Homes Paul Nikelremained positive for the future of Niseko due to itsnatural assets, such as the main calling card – powdersnow, and plenty of it.He did, however, add that the Niseko marketcorrection may allow for reflection on long-termgoals for the town.“Growth will continue to be positive, but perhapsfor the best will be a bit more rational and will takeinto account the long terms goals of the village,”Nikel said.“Niseko will always have some of the best and mostconsistent snow in the world, and as Asia emergesfrom the current crisis, demand will correspondinglyincrease.“The village will continue to be popular withtourists throughout Asia, Australia and even intoEurope.“Our fundamental belief is that Niseko andHokkaido is a beautiful part of the world and a greatplace to be.“Over the past years many people have come to fallin love with the area the same way we have, and thiswill continue for many years to come.”48 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 49


Q & A withJonathan MartinInterview by Kristian LundNISADE'S head honcho andfamily man Jonathan Martingives us his views on Nisekopast, present and future...How long have you been in Japan and Nisekoand what brought you here?I’ve been working in Niseko for three years, relocatingthe family here with me 15 months ago. The snowbrought me, I had done my time in the corporate worldand was looking for a change. Having always wanting toutilise those corporate skills, property development,corporate governance, corporate compliance andbusiness management in a more relaxed and rewardingarena I had always wanted to marry the love of thealpine environment with business. Once I heard aboutthe fabled snows of Niseko and its proximity toSoutheast Asia I was sold as it ticked all the boxes.What kind of work/projects have you beeninvolved with before you came to Niseko?I spent 13 years working in Sydney in a boutique fundsmanagement company that I set up with a partner. Wesyndicated investments across property, IT and even afilm, which incidentally was a complete flop. Over timeour business moved more and more into theproperty arena and we developed the full spectrum,industrial, commercial, retail and residential industriesthroughout Australia.How many projects have you done here andwhat type of projects were they?The Vale Niseko will be our third project here in Niseko,our first two, delivered in our first year of operation,were The Setsumon and The Freshwater. I certainlywould not undertake two in one hit again; it was a toughfirst year. The learning curve was so steep and withoutthe dedicated work of the Nisade team we would havefallen short on delivery. As it was we delivered bothahead of time and under budget thanks to strongrelationships with our builder, Nakayama Gumi.How do you feel about Nisade’s premier projectto date, The Vale, and what do you think it willadd to Niseko?This project will help drive the emergence of Niseko as aworld-quality ski destination. Our aim is to continue theupward drive of Niseko, the place for Asia to come and ski.As the first new fully integrated new building in Hirafu, itbrings so much more to the market. Offering room service,air-conditioning and a heated pool we are confident TheVale will add to the Niseko story. The challenge for us isobviously cost – it's being spent getting the product,amenity and feel just right in a time of global turmoil. Mygoal is the next 20 years and I know with utter convictionThe Vale will stand that test. Rental-wise we are reallytargeting summer; the lower levels have 15 hotel roomsdesigned exclusively for the Japanese domestic market.More summer guests is the long-term future for Niseko.What do you think Niseko will be like in 10 yearstime?Niseko will deliver. The years ahead will be very exciting.With Hanazono, Higashiyama and Chris Peck’s vision forAnnupuri coming on line, the mountain will truly havefour strong portals. With competing interests for the skierand boarder we will get the lift infrastructure upgrade intime which will further propel Niseko into the No. 1 slot.real estate q and a T real estateSummer will emerge as a strength and will surprise many.Our biggest challenge will be to retain the Japaneseexperience, but I am sure we can get that right.Do you think you will be here in 10 years time,and if so, what kind of projects do you think youwill, or would like to be, working on?The Martin family will be firmly ensconced here in Niseko,the place just has so much to offer a family and it willonly get better. Work-wise it will be difficult to keep pacewith the bigger corporations and institutions moving intothe area, so we are positioning the business to be able tooffer full-service development management services tothese larger players. Alongside that we will continue todevelop in our own right, small scale quality projects. Thatsaid, prior to the financial collapse we had constantapproaches to joint venture with some of these biggerplayers and actually already have on the books a jointventure with one of Singapore’s largest hoteliers.We understand you’ve been working to get aninternational school established in the area. Canyou tell us about this and what it’s like raisingyoung foreign children in Japan?Not as much as some of the other people around town,but we are definitely in there pushing. If we could getone in the area it would be so good for not just thelocals, but for the Niseko story. In fact one client thiswinter said if it was here she would bring her kids up forthe winter semester. Kai, our son, attended FujiYouchien (pre-school) in Kutchan last year and madesome good friends, but saw it more as day care. Wereally want to be part of the local school community, butfirst and foremost we have to get our kids moving on theeducation platform. To that end, we have taken adifferent tack and are now home schooling, as we reallywant our son to understand schooling and how muchfun learning can be.50 powderlife ISSUE 17 march 21 – april 3 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 51


Six-digit (local numbers) need the prefix 0136 if dialingfrom mobile phones, pay phones, or outside Niseko.Restaurants,cafes and eateriesA-Bu-Cha阿 武 茶22 5620 [MAP C2]B’s Café and Barビーズ カフェ&バー22 1480 [MAP D1]Bang Bangバンバン22 4292 [MAP C1]Owner Masanobu Saitochooses the best ingredientsin Japan. One of Hirafu’smost popular izakayas.Barunbaバルンバ090 8907 9399 [MAP B2]Black Diamond Lodge Restaurantブラックダイモンドロッジレストラン0136 44 1144 [Higashiyama]Just 300m ski or bus fromthe Hilton Niseko Villlage.Check out or great Westernand Japanese menu.Blo Blo Barブロー ブロー バー22-12-69 [MAP D1]Bouken Kazoku冒 険 家 族22 3759Chidori千 鳥23 2831 [MAP F4]Curry Goyaカレー 小 屋23 3688 [MAP F4]Downtownダウンタウン23 3354 [MAP B3]Dragon Wine and Food Barドラゴン ワイン&バー21 7700 [MAP B2]Fujizushi Sushiふじ 鮨23 2661 [MAP B3]Gentem Café玄 天 カフェ23 3154 [MAP B1]Menu SelectionsSalmon pizza 1300Venison Hamburg 1250Pasta 1000~Buffalo wings 600EN in-house fine dining宴 インハウス ファイン ダイニング55 8100 [MAP D3]Relax while our in-housechef does all the work.Your fine dining solutions.“Grandpapaグランパパ0136 23 2244 [MAP B3]Graubundenグラウビュンデン23 3371 [MAP E4]Hana Jizoh Bakery花 地 蔵23 0331 [MAP F4]Amazing sweet and savourybreads and pastries. Must try!Get the free village shuttle tobus stop 27.Hirafu Fleur創 作 料 理 ヒラフール23 3306 [MAP E1]Ichimura Soba蕎 麦 屋 いちむら23 0603 [MAP F3]if… Caféカフェ イフ22 4770 [MAP B3]Jam Café Barジャム(カフェバー)23 0700 [MAP D2]Japanese Kitchen Bouken冒 険 家 族22 3759Java Bar and Caféジャバ バー&カフェ090 2871 6781 [MAP D3]JoJo’s Café and Barジョジョズ(カフェ&バー)23 2093 [MAP E3]A 13 cm Original Burger, potatognocchi and fries fromlocal potatoes. Generousportions of foodJyuu Okonomiyakiじゅう44 2336 [Higashiyama]Kakashiかかし23 2622 [MAP D2]Kame亀22 0339 [MAP E3]Kamimuraカミムラ21 2288 [MAP D2]Niseko’s premier diningexperience. A mix of Japaneseseasonal cuisine, blendedwith classic French technique.Kila姫 羅070 6646 4715 [MAP C2]Komekichi Onigiri Café米 吉 (おにぎりかふぇ)22 1105 [MAP F1]Kumagoroくまごろう23 3381 [MAP B3]Landmark Deliくまごろう23 4285 [MAP E2]Loaf Loungeローフラウンジ22 1022 [Kutchan]Maruまる22 5020 [MAP E3]Traditional Japanese ‘donburi’restaurant. 11:30am-2pm/5-11pm. Pick up available.Reservation requiredMina Minaミナミナ23 4771 [MAP D2]Mokorayaもこらや090 8279 0598 [MAP F3]Mozartモーツァルト090 2699 6387 [MAP E4]Nami Chan Chi波 ちゃん 家21 2258 [Kutchan]Nathan’s Hotdogsネイサンズ ホットドッグ21 3121 [MAP E3]Niseko Gourmetニセコグルメ080 5584 1313Niseko Pizzaニセコ ピザ21 6888 [MAP D2]Paddy McGintysパディーマッギンティーズ55 8020 [MAP C2]Payokaパヨカ22 0117 [MAP E1]SpecialitiesButa don ¥850Tempura Set ¥1350Sashimi ¥1350Tendon ¥950Paul’s Cafe and Barポールズカフェーアンドバー090 9083 6764 [MAP C3]Specialising in Belgian beerand rotisserie chicken. Morethan 30 beers on tap or inbottles. Belgian Waffles.Piccolo Houseピッコロハウス(カフェ&バー)23 0311 [MAP E2]Raku Izakaya楽 居 酒 屋22 6638 [MAP C3]Rin Izakayaりん 居 酒 屋22 1444 [MAP B3]Senchou 1 Izakaya船 長 ( 居 酒 屋 )22 2001 [MAP B3]Senchou 2 Seafood Izakaya海 山 屋 ( 海 鮮 居 酒 屋 )22 5454 [MAP C2]Shokusai Hirafu食 彩 比 羅 夫22 1105 [MAP C1]Shunsai旬 彩23 1882 [Kutchan]Slalomスラローム22 1105 [MAP C1]phone directory T directoryServicesRosso Rossoロッソロッソ21 7100 [MAP B3]Casual steak house with acontemporary flavour. Juicy,tender wagyu and Kobe beef,variety of imported wines.Sekka Deli Cafeセッカデリカフェ21 3088 [MAP B2]House-made produce usinglocal ingredients, cheeses,meats, wines. Breakfast todinner, dine in or take away.Sekka Diningセッカダイニング21 5022 [MAP B2]Experience the taste of Hokkaidoin style at Sekka Dining.International fusion cuisineusing Hokkaido ingredients.Spur Chinese Restaurantシュプール( 中 華 レストラン)22 1105 [MAP C1]Tsubara Tsubaraつばらつばら23 1116 [MAP E4]WIld Bill’sワイルドビルズ22 5652 [MAP D2]Come for dinner, stay fordrinks. Hirafu’s most popularbar and Tex-Mex cuisinerestaurant. See you there!Yawarayaやわらや23 3810 [MAP C3]Youtei Yakiniku焼 肉 ようてい22 0109 [MAP E1]Yuki Bar and Café雪 場 カフェ22 0234 [MAP D2]Yummy’sヤミーズ21 2239 [MAP C3]Boot Solutionsブートソルションズ221-025 [MAP D2]Niseko Photographyニセコフォトグラフィー22 5764 [MAP D2]Call for anappointment orjust drop in. Ph.0136 22 0399Niseko Physioニセコフィジオ22 0399 [MAP B2]Your English speaking sportsinjury centre in Hirafu. Australiantrained winter sportsphysiotherapists.Skybus スカイバス22 2108 [MAP D2]Sapporo office 011 788 4994Delis, food outletsLawson Hirafuローソン23-1230 [MAP C2]M-Pocket KutchanM-ポケット22-1070 [MAP Kutchan F7]Niseko Wine Supplyニセコウアインサプライ0906875 5931 [MAP XX]Seicomart Hirafuセイコマート23-3271 [MAP C2]Sekka Deliセッカデリ21 3088 [MAP B2]Sekka Landmark Deliセッカランドマーク23 4285 [MAP E2]Sekka Teca Wine Shopセッカテカワインショプ21 3088 [MAP B2]HotelsHotel J-First NisekoホテルJファーストニセコ22 2350 [MAP E1]Hotel Niseko Alpenホテルニセコアルペン22 1105 [MAP D1]Hotel Niseko Scotホテルニセコスコット23 2311 [MAP E1]J-Sekkaジェイセッカ21 6133 [MAP B2]Niseko Kogen Hotelニセコ 高 原 ホテル22 0117 [MAP E1]Niseko Park Hotelニセコパークホテル22 2122 [MAP C2]Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafu-teiニセコプリンスホテルひらふ 亭23 2239 [MAP C1]Yamada Onsen Hotel山 田 温 泉 ホテル22 0476 [MAP E1]www.powderlife.com march 21 – april 3 2009 ISSUE 17 powderlife 55

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