Sujni Embroidery Cluster - National Institute of Fashion Technology

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• Bihar is a state ofIndia which is situatedin the northern partof India.• It is 12th largeststate in terms ofgeographical size at38,202 sq. meter andthird largest bypopulation.• Hindi and Urdu arethe official languageof the state. While majority of the people speak Bhojpuri and Magadhi, Maithili.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 2

• Bihar is a state which has rich heritage of art andcrafts. From generation to generation people are learningfrom their predecessors and carrying on their culture ofcraftsmanship.• The crafts that survived were those which where stronglyfastened to our religious and social rituals.• Among the existing crafts of Bihar - pottery,wooden articles, stone wares, jewelry, lacquerworks, madhubani painting, tikuli art, sujaniembroidery, sikki art, wooden and clay toys,textile fabrics and printing on clothes mayspecially be mentioned.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 3

• The word ‘cluster’ means a group of persons/things/species of same kinddoing or serving same kind of purpose.• The cluster was been organized to study the craft of Bihar - SujaniEmbroidery. There were secondary research week and cluster visit weeks.• Secondary Research - The secondary research which is known as the deskresearch deals with information gathering from internet, books,magazines, news paper articles, etc. , interaction with variouspersonalities who are directly or indirectly attached to the craft, localmarket surveying, variety of Sujani products that are available, cost of theproducts, brands which are selling the product, the popularity ornegligence of Sujani, etc.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 4

• General information about the artisans :‣ Length of involvement with the craft.‣ What is their area of specialty?‣ How long have they been practicing?‣ Where they are trained, with whom and for how long?‣ What they are currently producing?‣ Do they teach others, and or pass on skills within their family?‣ What are some of the challenges that they are facing in continuing with thecraft?SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 5

‣ The journey started from NIFT Campus, 2 ndFloor, Udyog Bhavan, Gandhi Maidan East,Patna, Bihar.‣ As the craft is practiced mainly in Muzafferpur district of Bihar in the villages like Bhusra,Manipur, Dhanaur, Ramnagar, Bagha Khal, etc the craft cluster was located in villageBhusra.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 6

The cluster was held in Mahila Vikas Samiti, Bhusra village in Muzafferpur Distt .Bhusra Village LocationName of the district - MuzaffarpurName of the block - GaighatName of the village - BhusraTotal population of the village - 4204Bhusura Mahila Vikas SamitiMahila Vikas SamitiBhusra, P.O - HasnaVia - Bocha, Muzafferpur,BiharPin - 843104SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 7

• Bhusra is the main center that coordinates with all the artisans in their village andnear by villages.• The NGO Bhusra Mahila Vikas Samiti operates the training of the artisans, makesartisan’s payment per order, helps providing raw material to artisans and takesorder from industry and passes it on to artisans to work on it.Apart from Bhusra, 4 other villages were also surveyed where artisans of Sujanistay and work.They are - Manipur, Bagha Khal, Dhanaur and Ramnagar.Manipur Village LocationName of the district -MuzaffarpurName of the block - BandraName of the village - ManipurSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 8

Distance from NIFT,Udyog Bhavan, Patnato Bhusra village,Muzaffarpur :96.9kmBhusara is a small villagein Gaighat Tehsil inMuzaffarpur District inBiharState. Mushahari,Gaighat,Muzaffarpur,Kurhani, are the near byTowns to Bhusara. Itsmain VillagePanchayat is BhusaraPanchayatSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 9

• Traditionally, at the time of child birth,patches of different colored cloth fromold saris and dhotis were sewn togetherwith a simple running stitch to make aquilt called Sujani.• Three or four sections of saris or dhotiswere laid on top of each other andquilted with the thread that wasunpicked from the used garments.• The stitch filling of the motifs was donewith a simple running stitch and theoutline of the motif was usually donewith a chain stitch in dark color.• The quilt design depicts the mother’sintentions and dreams for her new born.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 11

• Women stitch their experience, sorrowsand their realities on the Sujani, transformingdull quilt into a testimony of their lives.• Each Sujani tells a tale – the trauma ofbeing a woman in a man’s world, domesticviolence, female infanticide, effects ofalcoholism and gambling on a family andsimilar issues.• Social concerns like evils of dowry,education of girls, lessons in health care andAIDS are also depicted. Thus, each Sujanibecomes testament of personal trials or ofsocial change.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 12

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• This Sujani technique of sewing together layered pieces of old cloth is deeply rooted in twoancient beliefs.• First, cloth bound together by Sujani served a ritual function – it invoked the presence of adeity, Chitiriya Ma, the Lady of the Tatters and stitching together these disparate piecessymbolically embodied the holistic Indian concept that all parts belong to the whole andmust return to it.• The second purpose of stitching pieces of old cloth together was to wrap the newborn;• to allow it to be enveloped in a soft embrace, resembling that of its mother.• In fact, the word Sujani itself reflects this principle – ‘su’ means easy and facilitating, while‘jani’ means birth.• Sun and cloud motifs signifying life-giving forces, fertility symbols, sacred animals, fantasticwinged creatures for protection against destructive forces, and other motifs to attractblessings from the gods.• Different coloured threads were also symbolically used, such as red, signifying blood, a lifeforce, and yellow for the sun.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 14

• The fabric on which Sujani work has to be done,• Needle• frame• scissors• threads of required colors• inch tape• tracing sheet• tracing wheel• pencil• rubber• blue chalk and kerosene.1.Pencil, sharpener and eraser -2.Tracing Sheet -3Tracing wheel -4.Fabric -5.Kerosene and Ujala -6.A rough cloth -7.Measuring tape -SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 15

1. embroidery frame - to hold the fabric tightlyand it avoids wrinkles.2. embroidery thread : Moon thread - used forthe filling of the background,Anchore thread - use for the filling of motif orstitching the outline of the motif.3. needle - number 9 needle is used for theembroidery stitches.4. scissors - to cut extra threadsSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 16

Placing the tracing sheeton the fabric.The tracing sheet havingthe design on it.Dipping the rough cloth inkerosene and neel solution.Then, wiping it on the tracingsheet which is placed on thefabric.Wiping with solution.The liquid flows throughthe perforated tracing sheet.Traced PatternArtisan traced the design onthe fabricSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 17Tracing done

Chain stitch :This stitch appears like a chain on theface of the fabric. It is worked from top down.It is used for heavy outlines.Filling of motifs can be done as well.But here, in Sujani, filling is done by running stitch.Running stitch :The stitch is worked through by passing a needle in and outof the fabric.Running stitches may be of varying length, but typicallymore thread is visible on the top of the sewing than on theunderside.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 18

Finishing:• Cutting of extra thread with scissors.Washing and Calendering:• When the article is ready, it is properly washed and calendered.• It is done in washing and calendering unit of the production companyrespectively.Labeling and Packaging:• Labeling and Packaging depend on the company. It is not necessarythat every Sujani product is labeled as Sujani.• It depends on the amount of work done of Sujani on the product.• In craft outlets, i.e. Angana, Harit Kala Kendra,etc., and exhibitions, theproducts were labeled as ‘Sujani’ on them.• Packaging were done at the workhouses.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 19

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G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 74Applicant : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry ofTextiles, Government of IndiaWest Block No. 7, RK Puram, New Delhi, IndiaAddress : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry ofTextiles, Government of IndiaWest Block No. 7, RK Puram, New Delhi, IndiaGeographical Indication : SUJINI EMBROIDERY WORK OF BIHARClass : 26Goods : EmbroiderySUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 21

Midnight water kimono jacketPrice - 9000/-ComforterPink Khadi CottonSling Bag with SujaniEmbroideryCushion CoverSujani Wall HangingSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 22

• Sujni production had virtually disappeared until it was revived in 1988 by ADITHIand its products adapted to urban market. ADITHI works through the Mahila VikasSahyog Samiti (MVSS), a small autonomous society, based in Bhusura Dist. OfMujaffarpur, Bihar. Sujani embroidery, once a household recycling device, is nowan expressive art form.• Sujani is an industrious work. It need lots of patience. Skill is needed as well.• Nirmala Devi was the first women to take the initiative in the Sujni project underthe Mahila Visas Sahyog Samiti.• Today about 600 women from 22 villages around Bhusura are working under thisprojectSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 23

•Earlier it was named as Mahila VikasSahyog Samiti (MVSS) but it has changedits name to Mahila Vikas Samiti. It worksunder ADITHI.•Ms. viji Srinivasan trained few woman onSujani to compete with the world by theirearnings through Sujani handicraft.Nirmala Devi was one of them.•In the year of 1988, the NGO, MVSS wasbuild.•Now, it is called Bhusra Mahila VikasSamitiSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 24

About Mahila Vikas Samiti, Bhusra• The NGO look forwards for more opportunities where they could promote the wellbeing of the villagers.• They focus in women empowerment, health, civic education, and upliftment of theconditions for locals.• They also creating awarenessamong people about humantrafficking, infanticides, AIDsand female feticides.“Jiyo” described as a “street smart word used to express faith in life” is an empoweringprogramme under the Asian Heritage Foundation supported by JSDF (Japan SocialDevelopment Fund) to create new livelihoods in Cultural Industries, involving the skilledbut economically highly vulnerable communities of India.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 25

• To build up social capital by organising the rural groups into revenue generatingenterprises, with linkages facilitated between self-managed cluster level institutions andcontemporary market forces, to set up artisan investment fund as economic capital andto build creative capital through “design-led skill development and training inmanagement, are the aims of this project, the brainchild of designer Rajeev Sethi,whose entire life has been devoted to the welfare of Indian crafts.• Jiyo's Sujani cluster, Sujani Jeevika Swavlambi Sehkari Samiti Limited, was set up in2011 after working with them for three years.• The women were trained to create exquiste and innovative products for thecontemporary markets. Within 3 years, the cluster has expanded from 15 women to180 women and girls, and is active in the Sarfuddinpur and Bhusra villages ofMuzzafarpur , Bihar.• The cluster has created a gorgeous line of embroidered stoles and other wearables bythe name of " The College Fee Collection".Jiyo!s continious interventions supportseducation of girls in the cluster who aspire to continue their education.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 26

Skye Morrison• Skye Morrison is a Canadian designer/ craftsperson,educator, fieldworker,and curator and documentaryfilmmaker specializing in material culture.• She visited Bhusra village, Bihar in the year 1996.• Skye Morrison Historic textiles, a contemporary genre was examined by SkyeMorrison, a Canadian designer specialising in material culture.• Skye has examined how craftswomen of Bihar and Jharkhand pass down theirfolksongs and legends, depicting them through a running stitch (sujni) and appliqué(khatwa).• These textiles tell stories of their lives,festivals, weddings and commerce, and morepoignant observations on topical subjects such as education, environment, AIDS, andcommunal harmony.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 27

ArtisansSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 28

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‣ Lack of basic infrastructural facilities‣ Illiteracy‣ Lack of capital to showcase their talent‣ Lack of exposure‣ Difficulty in receiving loans‣ Lack of government schemes and programmes‣ No computers in the village‣ Lack of market and effective demand‣ Lack of training and transportation‣ Mostly, problems are arising due to low level of education, poverty. irregularemployment opportunity.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 31

• Need to survey and knowing about the gaps• Good training facilities• Good transportation• Developing good market in nearby areas too• Formation of self help groups at the block level• Arrangement of good infrastructural facilities• Identifying good sources of raw materials• Good technology for knowledge and time to time updates of the market• Telephone, Radio and Internet• Entrepreneurship development programme for the artisans at the block level• Arrangement of Advertisement by the Govt. about artisans product so that it cancreate market at inter – state as well as national & international at level.• Arrangement of Exposure visit in International Trade Fair and other fair.• Arrangement of Storage facility under the control & guidance of district industrycentre will provide economic security to the products of Artisanal Sector.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 32

Marketing of SujaniSUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 33

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1. Sujani embroidery is a cultural heritage of India.2. Sujani is G.I registered.3. It is a kind of handicraft which requires lots of patience and skill for crafting theembroidery which is developed on different varieties of products.5. It employees artisans by virtue of which those artisans are making a living.6. It consists of two simple stitches - running stitches and chain stitches with help of whichbeautiful Sujani is made.7. Simple motifs are used in Sujani.9. Raw materials are easily available in the market.10. Sujani embroidery products brings in foreign exchange by export market.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 35

11. Illiterate people can learn this handicraft.12. Earlier, Sujani only depicted a story of a market, a neighborhood, a mother’s dreams,etc.But now, apart from traditional designs and patterns, it depicts all social causes likehuman trafficing, AIDs, importance of education, save water, etc.1. Doing Sujani embroidery is very strenuous job.2. Artisans loose their eye sight in the process of practicing Sujani for 15-20yrs.3. Due to the intricate works, artisans get headache.4. Inspite of the hard work artisans do, they receive only 40paise for an inch which haveapproximately 150 stitches.5. It's a time taking work.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 36

1. Sujani embroidery products has the opportunity to exhibit itself in internationaland national trade fairs and exhibitions.2. It makes room for more employment opportunities in the handicraft sector.3. Artisans when go to display their artifacts in various places, they get theopportunity to know other handicrafts, different variety of products, interact withother culture, get to know their clients, etc.4. Every one has the opportunity to learn Sujani as this embroidery is the simplest ofall embroideries.5. More designs and patterns can be explored.6. There is huge scope of creating lump sum amount of market demand for the craftwith better advertisements, marketing strategies.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 37

1. The art is fading away as people are losing interest in the craft. The value of it isdecreasing in the market.2.Artisans are not interested in doing Sujani as they are not making any profit.3.Kantha stitch is a threat to the craft which is so similar to Sujani and a greatcompetition with intricate floral designs.4.As of less market demand, making of Sujani products have reduced.5.Due to less attention of government, the craft is dying.SUJANI EMBROIDERY OF BIHAR 38