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Fishing from the earliest times - Blog

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2TASTES VARY—WHY TAILS PREFERRED 255For <strong>the</strong>se reasons, discount as we may <strong>the</strong> personal predilectionsof an author like Ennius, of a gourmet like Apicius, of abon vivant like Vitellius, any list is perforce approximate, notabsolute. It must be governed by <strong>the</strong> dictum of <strong>the</strong> greatGreek epicure, \mpu yap 6 /xtv tovtoiq, o oiKtivoig.But if our opsophagists disagreed as to which was <strong>the</strong> bestfish, <strong>the</strong>y were fairly unanimous as to which part of a fish wasbest. Setting aside <strong>the</strong> peculiar partiality of <strong>the</strong> Greeks for<strong>the</strong> head of <strong>the</strong> Conger, <strong>the</strong> part near <strong>the</strong> tail afforded <strong>the</strong> mostsavour, and found <strong>the</strong> most favour with ancient (and modern)gourmets.Three reasons for this preference have been suggested :(A) That <strong>from</strong> Xenocrates. After laying down that fishroasted are more nutritious than fish boiled, that sea fish areeasy of digestion and by <strong>the</strong>ir formation of blood impart a goodcolour to <strong>the</strong> skin, that fish <strong>from</strong> lakes and rivers are generallybad for <strong>the</strong> stomach, form thick juices, and are difficult ofevacuation, this great physician affirms emphatically that <strong>the</strong>part near <strong>the</strong> tail of all kinds of fish (Nonnius excepts <strong>the</strong>Tunny) are <strong>the</strong> most wholesome, on account of it being mostfrequently exercised. 1(B) That <strong>from</strong> PHny. Writing of <strong>the</strong> Murcena, he says thatit is quite clear that in its tail abides its a?iinia {' life ' or'being '), because a blow on that part swiftly kills it, while oneon <strong>the</strong> head is more tedious in effect.(C) That alleged in Scandinavia. To <strong>the</strong> Norseman <strong>the</strong>most deUcate part of <strong>the</strong> salmon was its tail. His choice,now-a-days by no means exceptional, was explained by apretty piece of setiological tradition. Loki, fleeing <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong>pursuit of <strong>the</strong> gods whose anger he had provoked, had <strong>the</strong> witand <strong>the</strong> time to transform himself into a salmon. Then andin this guise would he have surely escaped, had not Thor caughthim by <strong>the</strong> tail, " and this is <strong>the</strong> reason why salmon have had<strong>the</strong> tails so fine and so thin ever since." ^' Cf. Blakey, op. cit., p. 73.2 N. H.. XXXII. 5.' In Krause, op. cit., i-^'j, Loki, originally god of Fire, changes into a salmon<strong>from</strong> his predilection for <strong>the</strong> red colour of <strong>the</strong> fish ! The Icelandic Eddasattribute <strong>the</strong> invention of <strong>the</strong> Net to Loki.

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