Chapter 4 - STAIR BODY - WM Coffman
Chapter 4 - STAIR BODY - WM Coffman Chapter 4 - STAIR BODY - WM Coffman
CUTTING OF OPEN SIDE SKIRTBOARDThe next step for an open side skirtboard will be the markingand cutting of each individual rise and run. For a morefinished appearance, the skirtboard should be mitered to therisers. The easiest and most efficient way to mark for this cutis with the use of a marking jig. A skirtboard marking jig canbe made from any 4" wide by 18" board that is the samethickness as the riser stock, which is normally 3/4". Simplycut a 7/8" notch into the center of the jig approximately 12"long. A handle shaped into the upper side will ease handling.PHOTO 4-18.SKIRTBOARDMARKING JIG4-18Slide the jig over the top of the skirtboard and push upagainst the rise of the outside rough carriage. PHOTO 4-19.A mark at the front side of the jig on the outside face of theskirtboard will correctly miter into your riser. Remember tocut on the waste side of the line, as you would rather beslightly long than short. PHOTO 4-20.As you work your way up the stair you can also use the jigto mark the tread cuts. PHOTO 4-21.MARKFRONT SIDEPLACE JIG AGAINSTROUGH CARRIAGE4-204-19 4-218 CHAPTER 4 - STAIR BODYC O F F M A N S T A I R P A R T S • S I N C E 1 8 7 4
FINISHED STRINGER LOWERTHAN ROUGH CARRIAGEBecause any slight crackbetween bottom of the treadand the top of the carriagewill be hidden by the covemoulding (See Photo 4-55),we suggest that you cutalong the inside of the treadline when making this finalcut. This will allow therough carriage to carry theload of the treads.PHOTO 4-22.4-22GUIDETo cut the riser line, useeither a circular or jig sawto make a 45° cut on thewaste side of your line.Because most standardpower saws tilt in only onedirection, left hand stairswill require special sawsthat tilt both left and right.If power saws are used, youmay want to clamp a guideonto the stringer to assist ingetting a clean, straight cut.PHOTO 4-23.45° CUT4-23CHECK FIT OF MITERED JOINTSAfter all riser and tread cutshave been made, temporarilyattach the stringer back tothe wall using the marksthat were previously madeon the sheetrock. Beforeattaching permanently,double-check the accuracyof your cuts with a scrapriser that has been mitered.PHOTO 4-24.4-24C O F F M A N S T A I R P A R T S • S I N C E 1 8 7 4 CHAPTER 4 - STAIR BODY 9
- Page 1 and 2: CHAPTER 4Stair BodyLANDING TREADSHO
- Page 3 and 4: WALL CUT MEASUREMENTMeasure the dis
- Page 5 and 6: LAST RUNBOTTOM OF OPEN SIDESKIRTBOA
- Page 7: NOTE NECESSARY ADJUSTMENTSMARK WALL
- Page 11 and 12: OVERCUT ANGLES4-294-304-31RISERSWit
- Page 13 and 14: DOWEL BOTTOMSTARTING NEWEL4-38When
- Page 15 and 16: NAIL OR SCREWTREADNAILINGJIG4-45 4-
- Page 17 and 18: C-8590 LANDING TREADDECORATIVE BAND
- Page 19 and 20: MITERED JOINTINSTALLING TREADAND RI
CUTTING OF OPEN SIDE SKIRTBOARDThe next step for an open side skirtboard will be the markingand cutting of each individual rise and run. For a morefinished appearance, the skirtboard should be mitered to therisers. The easiest and most efficient way to mark for this cutis with the use of a marking jig. A skirtboard marking jig canbe made from any 4" wide by 18" board that is the samethickness as the riser stock, which is normally 3/4". Simplycut a 7/8" notch into the center of the jig approximately 12"long. A handle shaped into the upper side will ease handling.PHOTO 4-18.SKIRTBOARDMARKING JIG4-18Slide the jig over the top of the skirtboard and push upagainst the rise of the outside rough carriage. PHOTO 4-19.A mark at the front side of the jig on the outside face of theskirtboard will correctly miter into your riser. Remember tocut on the waste side of the line, as you would rather beslightly long than short. PHOTO 4-20.As you work your way up the stair you can also use the jigto mark the tread cuts. PHOTO 4-21.MARKFRONT SIDEPLACE JIG AGAINSTROUGH CARRIAGE4-204-19 4-218 CHAPTER 4 - <strong>STAIR</strong> <strong>BODY</strong>C O F F M A N S T A I R P A R T S • S I N C E 1 8 7 4
Change language