newcastle ramblers bushwalking club newsletter - Confederation of ...
newcastle ramblers bushwalking club newsletter - Confederation of ...
newcastle ramblers bushwalking club newsletter - Confederation of ...
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’Juanita’ - The Ice Maiden <strong>of</strong> Mt Ampato – PeruThe porters and the donkeys had made goodprogress and we lunched like inconsequential royaltyto the amusement <strong>of</strong> some local school kids. Wegave them pencils and school supplies which theyvalued keenly. After a lengthy afternoon walk aroundgrassy hillsides we reached the second campsite in avalley at Markaccocha (3400m) in the grounds <strong>of</strong> atrout farm, beside a coursing river. A vigorous butbrief storm roared out <strong>of</strong> the hills and we all held ontotent poles and guy ropes as the wind buffeted thecampsite.‘Juanita’ was a 14 year old beauty – <strong>of</strong> Royal Incablood – a ‘chosen one’, who from a young age lived acloistered life within the ‘House <strong>of</strong> the Virgins <strong>of</strong> theSun’. She dedicated her life to the service <strong>of</strong> herdeity. She would tend the sacred flame entrusted tothe House <strong>of</strong> the Virgins, spin and embroiderclothing, and prepare food for the Inca and nobles <strong>of</strong>the Inca bloodline. At a marriageable age she mighthave become a concubine <strong>of</strong> the Inca or the wife <strong>of</strong>one <strong>of</strong> the nobles.Unfortunately for ‘Juanita’ the mountains were angry– volcanoes were erupting and the earth shook withterrifying tremors. The Gods <strong>of</strong> the Mountains had tobe appeased.Day three, most <strong>of</strong> the distance behind us, so aneasy one we all thought, just down the road toOllantaytambo. But no, Santiago had a surprise forus! Just a short walk uphill, guys, to an interestingsite! Well the 350m climb to the ruins at Pumamarcawas well worth the effort and we spent some timethere as Santiago told us the fascinating story <strong>of</strong> theInca’s retreat from the Spanish to this ancientfortress.From there we walked along Inca terraces around thecontours <strong>of</strong> the valleys past villages, through thefarmlands and along the riversides. In the valley farbelow some workmen installing irrigation pipesgratefully relieved Santiago <strong>of</strong> more <strong>of</strong> his cocaleaves. From there it was a delightful knee-stretching,almost level walk beside the river to the cobbledstreets <strong>of</strong> Ollantaytambo (2890m), a rendez vous withthe others and lunch in a café in the town square.The Lares Valley is a spectacular trek. We werewelcomed by local people along the way but saw noother walkers on the route. It is said to be a greatalternative to the crowded and more commonlywalked Inca trail to Machu Picchu.- Peter Farley‘Juanita’ travelled over many days with a spectacularentourage <strong>of</strong> high priests and other dignitaries fromCusco, the capital <strong>of</strong> the Inca Empire, to the 6380mhigh volcano Mt Ampato. This important religiousceremony which linked the local elite, the nobility <strong>of</strong>Cusco, and Inca deities, involved all kinds <strong>of</strong> hardshipincluding exposure to the elements at high altitude.It was on top <strong>of</strong> this mountain, usually covered withsnow and ice, that she was sacrificed to the Gods.She drank a special drink <strong>of</strong> fermented corn withsedative affects before being struck over the right eyewith the ceremonial mace. Dressed in her cloths <strong>of</strong>the finest fabric and surrounded by preciousornaments <strong>of</strong> gold, silver and shell, and other objectsto assist her in her future life, she was placed in asitting foetal position, wrapped in woven alpaca wool,and covered with rocks to form a small tomb. TheGods were pleased.For over 500 years she remained covered with snowand ice until another period <strong>of</strong> volcanic activityexposed her location and caused her tomb tocollapse. She tumbled down the mountain side,destroying her elaborate head dress <strong>of</strong> macawplumage along the way. She was otherwiseundamaged.Page 4