newcastle ramblers bushwalking club newsletter - Confederation of ...

’Juanita’ - The Ice Maiden of Mt Ampato – PeruThe porters and the donkeys had made goodprogress and we lunched like inconsequential royaltyto the amusement of some local school kids. Wegave them pencils and school supplies which theyvalued keenly. After a lengthy afternoon walk aroundgrassy hillsides we reached the second campsite in avalley at Markaccocha (3400m) in the grounds of atrout farm, beside a coursing river. A vigorous butbrief storm roared out of the hills and we all held ontotent poles and guy ropes as the wind buffeted thecampsite.‘Juanita’ was a 14 year old beauty – of Royal Incablood – a ‘chosen one’, who from a young age lived acloistered life within the ‘House of the Virgins of theSun’. She dedicated her life to the service of herdeity. She would tend the sacred flame entrusted tothe House of the Virgins, spin and embroiderclothing, and prepare food for the Inca and nobles ofthe Inca bloodline. At a marriageable age she mighthave become a concubine of the Inca or the wife ofone of the nobles.Unfortunately for ‘Juanita’ the mountains were angry– volcanoes were erupting and the earth shook withterrifying tremors. The Gods of the Mountains had tobe appeased.Day three, most of the distance behind us, so aneasy one we all thought, just down the road toOllantaytambo. But no, Santiago had a surprise forus! Just a short walk uphill, guys, to an interestingsite! Well the 350m climb to the ruins at Pumamarcawas well worth the effort and we spent some timethere as Santiago told us the fascinating story of theInca’s retreat from the Spanish to this ancientfortress.From there we walked along Inca terraces around thecontours of the valleys past villages, through thefarmlands and along the riversides. In the valley farbelow some workmen installing irrigation pipesgratefully relieved Santiago of more of his cocaleaves. From there it was a delightful knee-stretching,almost level walk beside the river to the cobbledstreets of Ollantaytambo (2890m), a rendez vous withthe others and lunch in a café in the town square.The Lares Valley is a spectacular trek. We werewelcomed by local people along the way but saw noother walkers on the route. It is said to be a greatalternative to the crowded and more commonlywalked Inca trail to Machu Picchu.- Peter Farley‘Juanita’ travelled over many days with a spectacularentourage of high priests and other dignitaries fromCusco, the capital of the Inca Empire, to the 6380mhigh volcano Mt Ampato. This important religiousceremony which linked the local elite, the nobility ofCusco, and Inca deities, involved all kinds of hardshipincluding exposure to the elements at high altitude.It was on top of this mountain, usually covered withsnow and ice, that she was sacrificed to the Gods.She drank a special drink of fermented corn withsedative affects before being struck over the right eyewith the ceremonial mace. Dressed in her cloths ofthe finest fabric and surrounded by preciousornaments of gold, silver and shell, and other objectsto assist her in her future life, she was placed in asitting foetal position, wrapped in woven alpaca wool,and covered with rocks to form a small tomb. TheGods were pleased.For over 500 years she remained covered with snowand ice until another period of volcanic activityexposed her location and caused her tomb tocollapse. She tumbled down the mountain side,destroying her elaborate head dress of macawplumage along the way. She was otherwiseundamaged.Page 4