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TRAVELSTHROUGHNORTH AND SOUTH CAROLINA^GEORGIA,EAST AND WEST FLORIDA,THE CHEROKEE COUNTRY,tHE EXTENSIVE TERRITORIES OF THE MUSCOGULGESIt:OR CREEK CONFEDERACY,AND THE COUNTRY OFTHE CHACTAWS.C O N' T A I N : N" Gf-N ACCOUNT OF THE SOIL AND NATURAJ. PRODUC-TIONS OF THOSE regions;TOGETHERWITHOBSERVATIONS ON THE MANNERS OF THE INDIANS.EMBELLISHED WITH COPPER-PLATES.ByWILLIAM B A Ri:R A M^V-^^THE SECOND EDITION INLONDON.fHlLADELPHIA : PRINTED BY JAMES AND JOHNSON. 179I.LONDON:REPRINTED FOR J.JOHNSON, IN ST. PAUL'S CHVBCH-YARD.J794«

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Contents

iir(Contents.C H A P. V.Provides fur contiimin^ his voyage higher up the river, engages an Indiafitto allift ill navigating his bark, and fets fail, the Indian becomes tired andrequeftb to be fet on (hore—encamps at a delightful Orange grove—continuesagain alone up the river; defcriptioa of tlie Palma Elaca : enters theXittle Lake and comes to camp at an Orange grove— fight of alligators ; abattle with them;great embarradraents with them; kills one : vaft airemblageof filh : defer iption of the alligator and its ne{l,&c.—defcribes theCaricapapaya—^a very curions bird—in danger of being taken napjiing by a hugecrocodile—the banks of the river adniirabiy ornamented with fefloons andtapellry, the work of nature— fepulchres of the ancients—a kurricane—vifitaa plantation on the banks of the Long Lake ; defcription of the lake, a largefufphureouS fountain—account of the founding and prefent ftate of NewSmyrna, on the Mufquitoe river— 'returns down the river— Eaft Lakecurious birds and a beautiful fifli—leaves Cedar Point, touches at the ifle ofPalms ; r'-bbed by a wolf—arrives at Six Mile Springs—an account of thatadmirable fountain—defcribes the Gordonia, Zami.i, Caftus opuntia, Erythrina,Cacalia, &c,— -touches at Rocky Point—arrives again at the lowerti'ading-iioufe 112C H A P.Proceeds on a journey to Cufcovvilla—tlefcribes the country and waters—Annona incana, Annona pygmea, Kalmia clliata, Empetrum album, Andromedaferruginea, Rhododendron fpurium, Pica glandaria non criftata, Lanlus,Lacerta, Snakes, Chionanthus, Andromeda formofiHima, Cyrilla—':ncamps at the Halfway Pond— 'defcribes the pond and meadows, a beautifullandfcape — pilgrimage of fifh—defcribes various kinds of filb— greatfoft flielled tortoife and great land tortoife—moral reflexions and meditations—leaves Half-way Pond and proceeds— fituation, quality, and furniuire o£the earth—arrives at Cufcowilla—reception from the Indian chief: his charadter—Siminolesprediledlioii for Spaailh cuftoms and civilization—Indiailaves, their condition—departs for tl;e Alachua favanna ; defcription ofthe favanna—Siminoles on horfeback— returns to Cufcowilla—a council andIndian feaft—defcription of the town and Cufcowilla lake—returns to theI'avanna— glafs Inake—makes the tour of the favanna— veftiges of the^incient Alachua—Orange groves, turkeys, deer, wolve^, favanna crane—arrives at the great hafon or fmk—defcription of the fink—account of thealligators, incredible number of fifh ; their fubtei ranean migrations—returns.—old Spanifa highway— Ind'an higluvay—arrives again at the tradinghoufeon St. Juan's—charailier and comjianfoo of the nations of the Uppe'-Creeks, and Lower or Siminoles 16?C H A P.VII.Sets out again on a journey to TrJahafochte—defcription of the Si-pinoluhorfe—encamps at an enciianting grotto on the banks of a be.>utiful lakerockyridges and defert wilds—engagement between a hawk and the coachxvhipfnake—^defcription of the fnake—account of the country, grai:d Pineforelt—encamps on the borders of an exieniive favanna—defcription of tlicfavannacrane—comes upon the verge of extenfive favanna^:, lying on a beautifullake— the expanl'ive fields of Capola, decorated with delightful groves«—fquadrons of Siminole hoifes—a troop under the condudl and care iif artIndian dog—the fields of Capola a delightful region—ferruginous rocks, richiron ore—arrives at Talahafuchte on the river Little St. Juan's—defcribesthe town and river—Ir.dian canoes—their voyages and tratlic—Indian voyageto Cuba—a fnliing party and naval race—an excurfion to the ManateeI'pring—-defcrijitii>n of tl.at incomparable nymphxnin—an account of theAlanatee— crolfcs the river to exjilore the country—Spanifii remains— waftCane wild'ernelie':—ancient Sjianilli pl.iii'ations— Apalachean o'll fieldsreturnsto town—White King's arrival— a council and fe.dt— charaifter ofthe king—leaves tlie town on rcfearcl'es, and encamps in tiie foiefts— accountof an extr.iordinary eruption of waters— joins his companions at camp% —untci"'VL

CONTENTS.—euteitaiiiment by the White King in Talahafuchte—Contce, its preparationand ufe—return; f > camp— great defert plains—entertainment witha party of young Siminole warriors— various natural wells and finks : conjeduresconcerning them—account of the Long Pond, r.nd delightful jirofpe(5lsadjacent—returns for the trading-houfe on St. Juan's—cmbarrairmentsoccafioned by the wild horfes—encamps at Bird ICand Pond-— vail numberof wild fowl tending their nerts—engagement with an alligatoi- who furjirifedthe camp by night—obfervations on the great Alachua favanna andits environs—arrival at the trading-houfe 213CHAP. VIII.The Author mikes an excurfion again v.p St. Juan's to Lake George—revifits Six Mi'e Springs and Illicium groves, makes colledions, and recroffesthe lake to the F.aftern coaft—that (hore more bold and rocky thanthe oppnfue—coafls round that ihore, ti)uching at old deferted plantations.^HeriMinial Cotton—Ir,.!jj—unpardonable devaftation and negledt of thewhite ftctlers, with reipeft to the native Orange groves—returns to thetrading-houfe 250IX.CHAP.Indian warriors, their frolic—curious conference with the Long Warrior—ludicrous Indian farce relative to a r.attle fnake—war farce 253C H A P. X.Farther account of the rattle fnake—account and defcription of otherfnakes and animals—catalogue of birds of Ncrtli America; obfervationsconcernin -, cheir migration, or annual paiiages from North to South, and back,againz6zCHAP.Vifits an Indian village on the river— water melon fe-fi— defcription ofthe banqueting-houfe—makes .an excurfion acrofsthe river ;g'-eat dangersin crolfuig ; lands on the oppofite fliore—difcovers a bee tree, ivhich yieldeda great quantity of honey—returns to the fhore—embarks for Frederica iaGeorgia : vifits the plantations down the river ; enters the found and paiTesthrough; arrives at Frederica—embarks again— touches at Sunbury—arrivesat Cha: leflon, South Carolina— meditates a journey to the Cherokeecountry and Creek Nation, in Weft Florida 301PARTXLIII.C H A P. I.The Author fets out for the Cherokee territories—pafTes through a finecultivated country—croffes Savanna river and eTirers the flate of Georgia—Dirca paluftris—cowpens— civil entertainment at a jjlaHtation— purines theroad to Augufla, and recrofl'es the river at Silver Bluff—account of Mr.dolphin's villa and trading flore?, Silver Bluff, fort Moore, Auguiia, Sav.annariver, mountains of large foflil oyfter fheils 306C H A P. ILProceeds for fort Jame?, Dartmouth—curious fpecies of Azalta—crofTesBroad River—eflablilhment of Dartmouth—Indian mount, &c. crofTes Savannariver— violent gufl of rain—curious fpecies gf .^fculus pavia—townof Sinica— fort Prince George, Ke»we—defcribes the country 31SCHAP.III.Ocone vale—monuments of the ancient town—croffes the mountains—their fituaciun, views, and produ(Slion5—reftson the top of Mount Magnolia—defcription of anew and beautiful fjiecies of Magnolia—caft;ades of FallmgCreek—thunder florm—head of Tanafee— vale of Cov.c— Indian gravestownsof Echoe, NucalFcjand Whatoga— noblv entertained by the piinceofWhatoga—arrives at the town of Cowe—makes an excurfion vvitii a youngtrader on the hills of Cowe—incomparable profpe£ls—horfc ftamp-^lifcoversa company of Cherokee nymphs—a frolic witti them—returns totown 331VC H A P.

——W C O N T E N T S.CHAP. IV.Sets off from Whuoga to the Overhill towns—Jore viliajie—'RosiingCreek—th':' Author and his guide part— furpri^ed by an Indian— faiute andpart friendly—mi untainous vegetable produdlions—-arrives on the top ofJore mountain—.fviMimc profpedts— Atta-kul-kulla, grand Cherokee chief''—gracioof receptun—returns to Cowe — great council-houfe—curious In*dian ilance—reti.rns and flops at Sinica— arrives again at fort James, Dartmouth—liftof Chertikee towns and villages 357CHAP. V.Sets off f:jm Dartmouth to the Upper Creeks and Chai5taws country—Flat Rock—a curious plant—Rocky Comfort— Ocone old Town—migrailion of the Ocones— cro'Ios the river—fordsthe Oakmulge at the OakmulgeSelds—Stoney Creek-—Great and Little Tabofachte—new fpecies of Hydrangia—crotfesFlint river—defcribes the country — perfecuted by extraordinaryheats and incre''ible numbers of biting flies—Hippobf)fca and Afikisi—extraordinary thunder gufl— croffes ChataUehe river—defcribes the town—very larg? a-.d ropuloii-:—jToceeds and arrives at the A.palachucla tov.-n-—-viiits the old town—i'-xt\ aordinary remains and monuments of the ancients—general face of the ct.hntry and vegetable piodutlions—new fpetiesof^fculus 373C H A P.VI.Proceeds, and after three days journey arrives at Tallafe, on the Tallaf)ooferiver^—Coloomc, a handfome tftwn— great phiins— further account ofthe country—Dog woods—crofles the river Scliamhe—comes to Taenfa onthe Eafl banks of the Mobile, thirty miles above the city—French inhabitants—paffesdown the river, arrives at the city of Mobile—fhort accountof the city and fort Condc—returns to Taenfa, and proceeds up theriver as fai' as the entrance of the Chicafaw branch— fioatin;^ forefts of theISIymphjea Nelumbo—vifits the adjacent lands— returns to Mobile — goes tothe river Perdido—continues on to Penfaco!.'.—-cordially received by governorChefler—fome account of the town—difcovers a new and beautiful fpeciesof Sarraceiiia—returns to Mobile 394.C H A P. VII.Leaves Mobile for JVIanchac on the Miflillipi— proceeds by \v?ter to Pearl'Ifl:ii\d— kindly entertained by Mr. Rumfey—defcribes the ifland-^largecrinifon Plum—a delicate fpecies of Mimofa — pafTes Lake Pontchartraintouches at the river Taenfiipaoa — paffes over Lakt; iv-laurepas— proceeds upto Iberville—croffes by land to Manchac— goes up the Miffiffipi—fettlementsof New-Richmond-^White Plains—curious mai'cle flrells in the river•—croffts over to Point Coujic—Spanifh village and fortrefs— high cliffs oppofuePcint Coupe— returns to the Amite, thence down through the lanks,and founds back again to Mobile 416CHAP.VIII.Leaves Mobile on his return— proceeds with a company of traders for theCreek nation—his horfe tires— is in great diffrefs—meets a company of traders,of whom he purchafes a freih horfe Illicium groves—meets a cdm-.pany of emigrants from Georgia — great embarralfment at a large creekfwoUen with late heavy rains—airives at the hanks of the Alabama—croffesit and arrives at Mucclaffe— Indian marriage— ferious reflections— perilousfituation of the trader r)f Mucclaffe— lets off for Otaffe— defci ibes the countrycontiguous to the Tallapoofe river— plantations and toi\n.:—Coolome-Tuckabatche— crofles the river and arrives at Otaffe—rotunda and fquare—black drink—fpira! fire—Sabbath or holy day to the Great Spirit—fets offwith a comjiany of traders for Georgia—Chehaw and Uffcta, Creek tt)wnson the Apalachucla river, almolt join each other, yet tlie irbabitants (peaktwo languages radically ditfeieni—arrives at the Oakmulge—croffts theriver in a portable leather boat—croffes the river Ocone—head branches ofGreat Ogeche—arrives at Augufta—takes leave of Augufta and l:is friendsthere, and proceeds for Savanna—lifl of Mufcogulgc towns and villages—conjcdttires concerning the rile of thy Mulcosjulge confederacy 438CHAP-

—CONTENTS.VJiCHAP. IX.Short 'excurfioii in the South of Georgia—makes co]!e>flions—^^thersfeeds of two new anJ very curious fhruhs46cC H A P. X.Proceeds for Charlefton—Calls r.t a gentleman's plantation— Adoe—Tannier—wildpi?^eons— After fruticofu^—leaves Charlefton, proceeds on hi:return liome to Pennfylv.inia—croifes Cooper river, nine miles above thepity—Long B ty— reefs of rocks—mcts a gang of Negroes —jiafles the boun-5lary-h.01.ie>—large '.'..'anna— Diona^a mufcipula— old towns— Brunfwick—fpecies of fcandent Fern—Deep river—croffes Haw river—IVIeherren riverm Virginia—Cucurbita lagewaria—curious fpecies of Prinos— Alexan-Tft jthm three miles of Philadelphia 467PART IV,CHAP. I.Perfons, character, and qualifications of the Aborigine-—moft perfedl hxirjnan figure— Mufcojulge women—women of the Cherokecs—arrogance ofthe Mufcogulges, yet magnanimous and merciful to a vanquifhed enemy 481CHAP. JI.Government and civil fociety— conllitution fmiply natural—the mico orking prefules in the fenate—elective— yet mylterious—the next man ia

INTRODUCTION.JL H E attention of a traveller fhould be particularlyturned, in the firft place, to the various works ofNature, to mark the diftinftions of the climates hemay explore, and to offer fuch ufeful obfervationson the different produftions as may occur. Menand manners undoubtedly hold the firft rank— whatevermay contribute to our exifcence is alfo of equalimportance, whether it be found in the animal orvegetable kingdom ; neither are the various articles,which tend to promote the happinefs and convenienceof mankind, to be difregarded. How farthe writer of the following fheets has fucceeded infurnifhing information on thefe fubje6ts, the readerwill be capable of determining. From the advantagesthe journalift enjoyed under his father JohnBartram, botanift to the king of Great Britain^and fellow of the Royal Society, it is hoped thathis labours will prefent new as well as ufeful informationto the botanift and zoologift\This world, as a glorious apartment of the boundlefspalace of the fovereign Creator, is furnifhedwith an infinite variety of animated fcenes, inexpreffiblybeautiful and pleafing, equally free to theinfpeftion and enjoyment of all his creatures.Perhaps there is not any part of creation, withinthe reach of our obfervations, which exhibits a moreglorious difplay of the Almighty hand, than thevegetable world : fuch a variety of pleafing fcenes,ever changing throughout the fealbns; arifing fromvarious

INTRODUCTION'.IXvarious caufes, and afilgned each to the purpofe andlife determined.It IS difficult to pronounce which divifion of theearth, between the polar circles, produces the greateftvariety. The tropical divifion certainly affordsthofe which principally contribute to the moreluxurious fcenes of fplendour, as Myrtus communis,Myrt, caryophyllata, Myrt. pimsnta, Caryophyllusaromacicus, Laurus cinnam. Laurus camphor LaurusPerfica, Nux mofch. Iliicium, Camellia, Punica,Cadlus melo caftus, Cadtus gianditlora, Gloriofa*fuperba, Thcobroma, Adanfonia digitata,Ny6lanthes, Pfidium, Mufa paradifica, Mula fapientum,Garcinia mangodana, Cocos nucifera, Citrus,Citrus aurantium, Cucurbita citruUus, Hyacinthus,Amaryllis, Narciflus, Poinciana pulcherrima,Crinum, Ca6lus cochinellifer.But the temperate zone (including by far thegreater portion of the earth, and a climate the mofi:favourable to the increafe and fupport of animallife, as well as for the exercife and a6livity of thehuman faculties) exhibits fcenes of infinitely greatervariety, magnificence, and confequence, with refpedtto human economy, in regard to the various ufes ofvegetables.For inftance; Triticum Cereale, v/hich affordsus bread, and is termed, by way of eminence, theftaff of life, the moll pleafant and nourifliing foodto all terreilrial animals. Vitis vinifc^ra, Vv^hofe exhilaradngjuice is faid to cheer the hearts of godsand men. Oryza, Zea, Pyrus, Pyrus malus, Prunus,Pr. cerafus, Ficus, Nedarin, Apricot, Cydo-^nia. Next follow the illuftrious families of forefttrees,as the Magnolia granciiflora and Quercusfempervirens, which form the venerated groves andfolemn fhades, on the Miffiffippi, Alatam.iha andbFlorida j

XINTRODUCTION.Florida; the magnificent Cuprefiiis difticha of Carolinaand Florida j the beautiful Water Oak *,whofe vail hemifpheric head prefents the likenefsof a diftant grove in the fields and favannas of Carolina; the gigantic Black Oak -}-, Platanus occidentalis,Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Liriodendron tuiipera,Fagus cailanea, Fagus fylvatica, Juglansnigra, Juglans cinerea, Jug. pecan, Ulmu?, Acerfaccharinum, of Virginia and Pennfylvania ; Pinusphoenix, Pinus tceda, Magnolia acuminata, NylTaaquatica, Populus heterophylla, and the floriferousGordonia lafianthus, of Carolina and Florida^ theexalted Pinus ftrobus. Pin. balfamica, Pin. abies.Pin. Canadenfis, Pin. larix, Fraxinus excelfior, Robiniapfeudacacia, Guilandina dioica, ^fculus Virginica.Magnolia acuminata, of Virginia, Maryland,Pennfylvania, New Jerfey, New York, NewEngland, Ohio, and the regions of Erie and theIllinois ; and the aromatic and floriferous Ihrubs,as Azalea coccinea. Azalea rofea, Rofa, Rhododendron,Kalmia, Syringa, Gardenia, Calycanthus,Daphne, Franklinia, Styrax, and odiers equallycelebrated.In every order of nature we perceive a varietyof qualities diftributed amongft individuals, defignedfor different purpofes and ufes ; yet it appears evident,that the great Author has impartially diftributedhis favours to his creatures, fo that the attributesof each one leem to be of fufhiicnt importanceto manifeft the divine and inimitable workmanfliip.The pompous Palms of Florida, andglorious Magnolia, ftrike us with the fenfe of dignityand magnificence; the expanfive umbrageousLive Oak J with awful veneration ; the Carica• Qaercus Hemifpherica.%O'-iercuG feuipervireiK"-'.fQwrcus tiudtoiia.? papaya.

INTRODUCTION.XIpapava feems fupercilious with all the harmony ofbeauty and gracefulnels ; the Liliuin f-jperbum reprefentspride and vanity ; Kalmia latifoHa and Azaleacoccinea, exhibit a perfe6t fhow of mi:th andgaiety;the Illicium Floridanum, Crinum Floridanum,Convallaria nnajalis of the Cherokees. andCalycanthus fioridus, charm with their beauty andfragrance. Yet they are not to be compared foriifefulnefs with the nutritious Triticum, Zea, Oryza,Solanum tuberofum, Mufa, Convolvulus Batata,Rapa, Orchis, Vitis vinifera, Pyrus, Olea ; for clothingwith Linum Cannabis, GofTypium, Morus; formedicinal virtues with HylTopus, Thynjus, Anthemisnobilis, Papaver fomniferum, Quinquina, Rheumrhabarbarum, Pifum, &c. Though none of thefemoft ufcful tribes are confpicuous for ftatehnefs,figure, or fplendour, yet tlieir valuable qualities andvirtues excite love, gratitude, and adoration to thegreat Creator, who was pleafed to endow them withfuch eminent qualities, and reveal them to us for ourfuRenance, amufement, and delight.But there remain of the vegetable world feveraltribes that are diftinguifhed by very remarkableproperties, which excite our admiration, fome forthe elegance, fingularity, and fplendour of their veilment,as the I'ulipa, Fritillaiia, Colchicum, Primula,Lilium fuperbum, Kalmia, &c. : othersaftonifh us by their figure and dilpofal of their vefture,as if defigned only to eiTibellifli and pleafethe obferver, as the Nepenthes didiliatoria, Ophrysinfedtoria, Cypripedium calceolus, Hydrangia quercifolia,Bartramia bracleata, Viburnum Canadenfe,Bartfia,&:c.Obferve thefe green meadows how they are decorated; they fcem enamelled with the beds offiowersi The blufhing Chironia and Rhexia, theb 1 fpiral

XllINTRODUCTION"*fpiral Ophr)" with immaculate white flowers, theLimodorum, Arcthufa pulcherrima, Sarracenia purpurea,Sarracenia galeata, Sarracenia lacunofa,Sarracenia flava. Shall we analyze thefe beautifulplants, lince they feem cheerfully to invite us ?Howgreatly the flowers of the yellow Sarracenia reprefenta filkcn canopy ? the yellow pendant petals arethe curtains, and the hollow leaves are not unHkethe cornucopia or Amakhea's horn ; what a quantityof water a leaf is capable of containing, abouta pint! tafte of it— how cool and animating— limpidas the morning dew :nature feems to have furnifhedthem with this cordated appendage or lid,which turns over, to prevent a too fudden andcopious fupply of water from heavy fhowers of rain,which would bend down the leaves, never to rifeagain; becaufe their ftraight parallel nerves, whichextend and fupport them, are fo rigid and fragile,the leaf would inevitably break when bent down toa right angle; therefore I fuppofe the waters whichcontribute to their fupply, are the reboundingdrops or horizontal fl:reams v/afted by the winds,which advemitioufly find their way into them, whena blaft of wind fhifts the lid: fee thefe fliort ftiffhairs, they all point downwards, which dire6t the condenfedvapours down into the funiculum; thefe iliffhairs alfo prevent the varieties of infecSts, which arecaught, from returning, being invited down to fip themellifluous exudation, from the interior fui face of thetube, where they inevitably perilh ; what quantitiesthere are of them! Thefe latent waters undoubtedlycontribute to the fupport and refrcfhment of theplant: perhaps defigned as a refervoir in cafe of longcontinued droughts, or other cafualtics, fince thefeplants naturally dwell in low favannas liable tooverflows, from rain water: for although I am notof

INTRODUCTION.,XIUof the opinion that vegetables receive their nouriilimentonly through the afcending part of the plant,as the ftem, branches, leaves, &c.; and that theirdefcending parts,as the roots and fibres, only icrveto hold and retain them in their places; yet I believethey imbibe rain and dews through theirleaves. Hems, and branches, by extremely minutepores, which open on both furfaces of the leavesand on the branches, which may communicate tolittle auxiliary du6ls or veflels; or, perhaps thecool dews and Hiowers, by conftriding thefe pores,and thereby preventing a too free ptrrfpiration, mayrecover and again invigorate the languid nerves clthofe which feem to fuffer for want of water, ingreat heats and droughts; but whether the infeftscaught in their leaves, and which diflolve and mixwith the fluid, ferve for aliment or fupport tothefe kind of plants, is doubtful. Ail the Sarraceniasare infeft catchers, and f^ is the Droflbarotundifolia.But admirable are the properties of the extraordinaryDionea mufcipula ! A great extent on eachfide of that ferpentine rivulet is occupied by thofcfportive vegetables— let us advance to the fpot inwhich nature has feated them. Aftonifliing produdlion! fee the incarnate lobes expanding, howgay and fportive they appear ! ready on the fpringto intrap incautious deluded infefts 1 what artifice !there behold one of the leaves juft clofed upon aftruggling fly; another has gotten a worm ; its holdis fure, its prey can never elcape— carnivorous vegetable! Can we after viewing this objeft, hefitatc amoment to confefs, that vegetable beings are en~dued with fome fcnfible faculties or attributes,C.milar to thofe that dignify animal nature; they areb 3organical.

KIVir^TRODUCTION.organica], living, a,nd feif-moving bodies, for wefee here, inthis plant, motion and volition.What power or faculty is it, that directs the cirriof the Ciicurbita, Momordica, Vitis, and otherclimbers, towards the twigs of fhrubs, tree?, andother friendly fiipport ? we fee them invariably leaning,extending, and like the fingers of the humanhand, reaching to catch hold of what is nearefl:,juft as if they had eyes to fee with ; and when theirhold is fixed, to coil the tendril in a fpiral form,by which artifice it becomes m.ore elaftic and effectual,than if it had remained in a dirvft line, forevery revolution of the coil adds a portion ofllrength ; and thus colkfted, they are enabled todilate and contradl as occafion or necefiity requires,and thus by yielding to, and humouring the motionof the limbs and twigs, or other fupport on whichthey depend, are not fo liable to be torn off byfudden blafts of wind or other affaults : is it fenfe orinftii.cl that influences their a(5lions? it muft befome impulle j or does the hand of the Almightyadl and perform this work in our fight ?The vital principle or efficient caufe of motionand aclion, in the animal and vegetable* fyftem,perhaps may be more fmiilar than v/e generally apprehend.Where is the effential difference betweenthe feed of peas, peaches, and other tribes ofplants and trees, and the eggs of oviparous animals,as of birds, fnakes, or butterflies, fpawn offiih, &c. ? Let us begin at the fource of terreftrialexiftence. Are not the feeds of vegetables, and theeggs of oviparous animals fecundated, or influencedwith the vivific principle of life, through the approxirnationand intimacy of the fex€s ? and immediatelyafter the eggs and feeds are hatched, does not the* Yn], Sponfalia pliuitriium^ Aman. Acad. 1. n. 12. Linn.young

INTRODUCTION.XVyoung larva and infant plant,by heat and moifture,rife into exiftcnce, increafe, and in due time an iveto a ftate of perfeft maturity ? The phyfiologiftsagree in opinion, that the work of generation inviviparous animals, is exa6lly fimilar, only morefecret and enveloped. The mode of operation thatnature purfues in the produ have the powers offound, and are locomotive, whereas vegetables arenot able to fhift themfelves from the places wherenature has planted them: yet vegetables have thepower of moving and exercifing their members, andhave the means of tranfplanting and colonifing theirtribes almofb over the furface of the whole earthfomq feeds, for inftance, grapes, nuts, fmilax, peas,and others, whofe pulp or kernel is food for animals,will remain feveral days without being injuredin ftomachs of pigeons and other birds ofpafTage j by this means fuch f )rts are diflributedfrom place to place, even acrofs feas ; indeed fanefeeds require this preparation by the digeftive heatof the flomach of animals, to diflblve and detachthe oily, vifcid pulp, or to foften the hard fhells.Small feeds are fometimes furnifhed with rays ofhair or down j and others with thin light membranesattached to them, which fcrve the purpofe of wings,on which they mount upward, leaving the earth,float in the air, and are carried away by the fwiftwinds to very remote regions before they fettle onthe earth ; fome are furnifhed with hooks, whichcatch hold of the wool and hair of animals paffingby them, and are by that means fpread abroad ib 4other

^VlINTRODUCTION.Other feeds ripen in pericarpes, whicli open withelaftic force, and fhooc their feed to a very greatdiftance round about ; feme other feeds, as of theMoffes and Fungi, are fo very minute as to be invifible,light as atoms, and thefe mixing with theair, are v/afted all over the world.The animal creation alfo excites our admiration,and equally manifefLS the almighty power, wildom,and beneficence of the Supreme Creator and SovereignLord of the univerfe; fome in their vaft fizeand itrcinath, as the mammoth, the elephant, thev/haiv.% die lion, and alligator j others in agility ;others in dieir beauty and elegance of colour,plumage, and rapidity of flight, having the facultyof moving and living m thj air; others for theirimmediate and indifpenfable ufe and corvenienceto man, in furnifhiig means Lr our clothing andfuftenance, and ad niniftering to our help in thetoils and labours of life : how wonderful is the mechanifmof thefe finely formed fclf-moving beings,how complicated their fyftem, yet what unerringuniformity prevails through every tribe and particularfpecies ! the effeft we fee and contemplate,the caufe is invifible, incomprehenfible ; how canit be othcrwife ? when vve cannot fee the end ororigin of a nerve or vein, while the divifibility ofmatter or fluid, is infinite. We admire the mechanifmof a watch, and the fabric of a piece ofbrocade, as being the production of art j thei'e meritour admiration, and mud excite our efleem lor theingenious artitl or modifier; but nature is the workof God omnijiotent ; and an elephant, nay even thisworkl, is comparatively but a very minute part ofhis works. If then the vifible, the mechanical partof the animal creation, the mere material part, is\q (idniirably beautiful, harmonious, and incomprehenfible.

INTRODUCTION.-Xvijhenfible, what muft be the intelleftiial fyflem ? thatinexprefTibly more eflential principle, which fecretlyoperates within? that which animates the inimitablemachines, which gives them motion, impowersthem to aft, (peak, and perform, this muit bedivine and immortal?I am fenfible that the general opinion of philofophershas diftingiiifhed the moral fyftem of thebrute creature from that of mankind, by an epithetwhich implies a mere mechanical impulfe, v/hichleads and impels them to neceflary anions, withoutany pr( meditated defign or contrivance ^ this wcterm inftinft, which faculty we fuppofe to be inferiorto reafon in man.The parental and filial affeftions feem to be asardent, their fenfibiHty and attachment as aftiveand fiithful, as thofe obferved in human nature.When travelling on the eaft coaft of the ifthmusof Florida, afc^^nding the fouth Mufquito river, ina canoe, we obferved numbers of deer and bears,near the banks, and on the iflands of the riverthe bears were feeding on the fruit of the dwarfcreeping Chamserops; (tiiis fruit is of the form andfize of dates, and is delicious and nourifhing food:)we faw eleven bears in the courfe of the day, theyfeemed no way furprifed or affrighted at the fightof us. In the evening, my hunter, who was anexcellent markfman, faid that he would ilioot oneof them for the fake of the fkin and oil, for wehad plenty and variety of provifions in our bark.We accordingly, on fight of two of them, plannedour approaches as artfully as poflible, by croffingover to the oppofite fhore, in order to get undercover of a fmall ifland ; this we cautioufly coaftedround, to a point, which we apprehended wouldtake U3 within fiiot of the bears ; but here findingourfelves

XVm.INTRODUCTION,ciirfejyes at too great a diftance from theni;, andclilcovering that we miifl: cpenly fliow ourfclves, wchad no odier alternative to eifecl our purpofe, butnaaking oblique approaches. We gained graduallyon our prey by this artifice, without their noticingVus ; finding ourfelves near enough, the hunter fired,snd laid the largeft dead on the fp'jt whei-e fheilood ; when presently the other, not feeming theleaft moved at the report of our piece, approachedthe dead body, fmelled, and pawed it, and appearingin agony, fell to weeping and looking upward?,then towards us, and cried out like a child."VVhilfl: our boat approached very near, the hunterwas loading his rifle in order to fhoot the furvivor,which was a young cub, and the flair, fuppofed tobe the dam. The continual cries ot this affii6tedchild, bereft of itsparent, afFeded me very fenfibly1 was moved with compafiion, and charging myfelfas if accelTary to what now appeared to be a cruelmurder, endeavoured to prevail on the hunter toriiive its life, but to no effeft! for by habit he hadbecome infennble to compalfion towards the brutecreation: being now within a few yards of theharmlefb devoted vi6lim, he fired, and laid it deadupon the body of die dam.If we bellow but very litde attention to theeconomy of the animal creation, v;e fhall find manifeftexamples of premiCditation, perfeverance, refolution,and confummate artifice, in order to effefttheir purpofes. The next morning, after the Uaughterof the bears, whilfl my companions were ftrikingour tent, and preparing to re-embark, I refolved tomake a little botanical excurfion alone: crofllngover a narrow ii'thmus of fand hills, v/hich feparatedthe river from the ocean, I paded over a prettyhigh hill, its fumiriii; crefted with a few palm trecsjllirrounded

INTRODUCTION.XIXfurrounded with an Orange grove: this hill, whofebale was waflied on one fide by the floods of theMufquitoe river, and on the other fide by the billowsof the ocean, was about one hundred yardsdiameter, and feemed to be an entire heap of feafhells. I continued along the beach a quarter ofand came up to a foreil of the Agave vivi-a mile,para (though compofed of- herbaceous plants, Iterm it a foreft, becaufe their fcapes or flowerfcemsarofe ere61: near 30 feet high) : their tops regularlybranching in the form of a pyramidal tree,and thefe plants growing near to each other, occupieda fpace of ground of feveral acres: when theirfeeds are ripe they vegetate, and grow on thebranches, until the fcape dries, when the youngplants fall to the ground, take root, and fix themielvesin the fand : the plant grows to a prodigiousfize before the fcape flioots up from its centre.Having contemplated this admirable grove, I proceededtowards the fhrubberics on the banks of theriver, and though it was now late in December,the aromadc groves appeared in full bloom. Thebroad-leaved fweet Myrtus, Erythrina corallodendrum,Caftus cochinellifer, Cacalia fuffruticofa, andparticularly, Rhizophora conjugata, which floodclofe to and in the fait water of the river, were in.full bloom, with beautiful white fweet fcented flowers,which attrafted to them two or three fpecies of verybeautiful butterflies, one of which was black, theupper pair of its wings very long and narrow,marked with tranfverfe llripes of pale yellow, withfome fpots of a crimfon colour near the body. Anotherfpecies remarkable for fplendour, was of a largerfizej the wings were undulated and obtufely cre--nated round their ends, the nether pair terminatingnear the body, with a long narrow forked tail -, theground

XXINTRODUCTION.ground light yellow, ftripeJ obliqiie-tranA^erfe]}',•with ffripes of pale cekllial blue, the ends of themadorned with lictle eyes encircled with the fineftbiliie and crimion, which reprefented a very brilliantFofary. But thole which were tlie moft numerouswere as v/hite as Inovv, their Vv^ings large, their endslightly crcnated and ciliated, forming a fringed borcfer,faintly marked with little black crefcents, theirpoints downward, with a clufter of little brilliantorbs of blue and crimfoHj on the nether wings nearthe body : the numbers were incredible, and thereleemcd to be fcarcely a flower ror each fiy, multitudinousas they were, befides clouds of thern hoveriogover the mellifluous groves. Befidcs thefe papUes,a variety of other infefts come infor a fhare,particularly feveral fpecies of bees.As I v;as gathering fpecimens of flowers from theflirubs, I was greatly furprifed at the fudden appearanceof a remarkably large fpider on a leaf^of the genus Araneus fallens: at fight of m.e heboldly faced about, and railed himfelf up, as if readyto fpring upon mej his body was about the fize of2 pigeon's egg, of a bufi^ colour, which, with hislegs, were covered with fhort filky hair; on the topof the abdomen was a round red fpot or ocelle encircledwith black. After I had recovered from thefurprile, obferving that the wary hunter had retiredimdcr cover, I drew near again, and prcfcntly difcoveredthat I had furprifed him on predatory attemptsagainft the inie6l tribes. I was thereforedetcrniiincd to v/atch his proceedings. 1 foon noticedthat tlie object of his wiihcs was a large fattomble bee (apis bombylicus), that was vifiting theflowers, and piercing their neclariferous tubes : thiscunning intrepid hunter conducted his fubtil approacheswith die circumfpedtion and perfeveranc^^of

INTRODUCTION.C'fa Siminole when hunting a deer,:{X1advancing mtiiilow fteps obliquely, or under cover of denfc fol'i^.age, and behind the limbs, and when the bee wasengaged in probing a flower, he would leap nearer,and then inllantly retire out of fight, under a leaf orbehind a branch, at the fame time keeping a fharpeye upon me. \Vhen he had now gotten v/ith.'ij twofeet of his prey, and the bee was intent on ijupingthedelicious nedar from a flower, with his backnext the fpider, he inftantiy fprang upon him, andgraiped him over the back and flioiikicr, when forlome moments they both difappeared. I expecbedthe bee had carried off his enemy, but to my furprife,they both together rebounded back again,fufpended at the extremiiy of a ftrong elaflicthreador web, which the fpider had artfully let fall, orfixed on the twig, the inftant he leaped from it:therapidity of the bte's wings, endeavouring to extricatehimfelf, made them both together appear as amovingvapour, until the bee became fatigued by wlnrlinground, flrft one way and then back again : atlength, in about a quarter of an hour, the bee quiteexhaufted by his ftruggles, and the repeated woundsof the butcher, became motionlefs, and quickly expiredin the arms of the devouring fpider, who,afcending the rope with his game, retired to feafr onit under cover of the leaves ; and perhaps beforenight, became himfelf the delicious evening repafcof a bird or lizard.Birds are in general focial and benevolent creatures; intelligent, ingenioiis, volatile, active brings;and this order of animal creation confiiis ofvarious nations, bands, or tribes, as may be oblervedfrom their different ftrufture, manners, andianguag . or voice; each nation, though fubdividedinto many different tribes, retaining its gertral

X:aiTNTRODUCTIO.V.neral form or ftruftiire, a fimilarity of cufl.oms, anda fort of dialedt or language, particular to that nationor genus from which thofe tribes feem to havedefcended or feparated. What I mean by a languagein birds, is the common notes or fpeech, that theyufe when employed in feeding themfelvesyoung, calling on one another, as well asand theirtheir menacesagainft their enemy ; for their fongs feem tobe mufical compofitions, performed only by themales, about the time of incubation, in part to divertand amiufe the female, entertaining her withmelody, &c. This harmony, with the tender folicitudeof the male, alleviates the toils, cares, anddiftreffes of the female, confoles her in folitary retirementwhilft fitting, and animates her with affectionand attachment to himfelf in preference to anyother. The volatility of their fpecies, and operationof their pafTions and affeftions,are particularlyconfpicuous in the different tribes of the thrufh,famousfor fbng. On a fweet May morning we feethe red thrufhes (turdus rufus) perched on an elevatedfprig of the fnowy Hawthorn, fweet floweringCrab, or other hedge fhrub, exerting their ac-*complifnments in fong, Itriving by varying and elevatingtheir voices to excel each other ; we obfervea very agreeable variation, not only in tone but inmodulation ; the voice of one is flirill, of anotherlively and elevated, of others fonorous and quivering.The mock-bird (tardus polyglotcos) who excels,dillinguifnes himfelf in a variety of adlion aswell as air; from a turret he bounds aloft with theceleriiy of an arrow, as it were to recover or recalhis very foul, expired in the lall elevated ftrain.The high forefts are filled with the fymphony of thefong or wood thrulh (turdus minor).Both fexes of fome tribes of birds fing equally5 finely j

INTRODUCTION'.Xxlllfinely ; and it is remarkable, tliat thefe reciprocallyaflift in their domeftic cares, as building their neftsand fitting on their eggs, feeding and defendingtheir young brood, &c. The oriolus (idcrtu:.Cat.) is an inftance of this cafe; and the female oithe ifterus minor is a bird of more iplendid and gaydrefs than the male bird. Some tribes of birdswill relieve and rear up the young and helplefs, oftheir own and other tribes, when abandoned. Animalfubftance feems to be the firft food of all birds,even the granivorous tribes..fiaving paffed through fome remarks, which appearedof fufticient confequence to be offered to thepublic, and v;hich were molt fuitable to have aplace in the introduftion, I fiiall now offer fuch obfervationsas muui necefiarily occur, from a carefulattention to, and inveft:igation of, the manners ofthe Indian nations ; being induced, while travelingamong them, to alfociate v/lth diem, that Imight judge for myfe'f, whether they were defervingof the fcvere cenfure which prevailed againft themamong the white people, that they were incapableof civilization.In the confideration of this important fubjedl itwill be necefiary to inquire, whether they were inclinedto adopt the European modes of civil ibciety? Whether fuch a reformation could be obtained,without ufing coercive or violent means ?And laftly,whether llich a refoiucion would be productive ofreal benefit to them, and confequently beneficial tod:ie public ? I was fatisfied in difcovering that theywere defirous of becoming united with us, in civiland religious fociety.It may, therefore, not be foreign to the fubjed,to point out the propriety of fending men of abilityand virtue, under die authority of gove:nment,as

SXIVINTRODUCTrONvas friendly vilitors into their towns : let thefe menbe inftrufted to learn perfe6lly their languages, andby a liberal and friendly intimacy become acquaintedwith their cuftoms and ufages, religious and civilj their fyftem of legiflation and police, as wellas their moft ancient and prefent traditions and hiftory.Thefe men thus enlightened and inflrudledwould be qualified to judge equitably, and when returnedto us, to make true and juil reports, whichmight afTift the legiflature of the United States toform, and oiTn- to them, a judicious plan for theircivihzation and union with us.But I prefume not to dictate in thefe high concernsof government, and I am fully convinced thatfuch important matters are tar above my ability jthe duty and refpe6t we owe to religion and re6bitude,the moil acceptable incenfe we offer to theAlmighty, as an atonement for our negligence inthe care of the prefent and future welibeing of ourIndian brethren, induce me to m^ention this matter,though perhaps of greater concernment than we generallyare aware.TRAVELS

SXIVrNTRODUCTlOlsrvas friendly vifitors into their towns : let thefe menbe inftrufted to learn perfedly their languages, andby a liberal and friendly intimacy become acquaintedwith their cuftoms and ufages, religious and civilj their fyftem of legiflation and police, as wellas their moft ancient and prefent traditions and hiftory.Thefe men thus enlightened and inllrudledwould be qualified to judge equitably, and when returnedmight afTift the legiflature of the United States toto us, to make true and juft reports, which,form, and offer to diem, a judicious plan for theirCLvihzation and union with us.But I prefume not to dictate in thefe high concernsof government, and I am fully convinced thatfuch important matters are far above my ability ithe duty and refpeft we owe to religion and refbitude,the moft acceptable incenfe we offer to theAlmighty, as an atonement for our neghgence inthe care of the prefent and future wellbeing of ourIndian brethren, induce me to m.ention this matter,though perhaps of greater concernment than we generallyare aware.TRAVELS

UlM-A Ton-a-""-^S'M.IffAxASTATIA

&.t ^

TRAVELSINORTH AMERICA,NCHAR I.THE AUTHOR SETS SAIL FROM PHILADELPHIA, AN'DARRIVES AT CHARLESTON, FROM WHENCE HEBEGINS HIS TRAVELS.At the requeft cf Dr. Fothergill, of London, tofearch the FJoridas, and the weftern parts of Carohnaand Georgia, for the difcovery of rare andlife ul produdlions of nature, chiefly in the vegetablebngdom 3 in April. 1773, I ennbarked forLharlefton South CaroHna, on board the bri^antineCharlefton packet, captain Wright, the brig- - - -, captain Mafon, being in company withiJs, and bound to the fame port. We had a plea-^nt run down the Delaware, 150 miles to capeHenlopen, the two veffels entering the Atlant-'c together.For the firfl twenty-four hours we had aprofperous gale, and were chearful and happy inthe profpeft of a quick and pleafant voyage ; butalas!howvain and uncertain are human ^expedations! how quickly is the flattering fcene chang-.€d !1 he powerful winds, now rufliing forth from^their

2 TRAVELS INtheir fccrct abodes, fuddenly fpread terror and dc*vaftation j and the wide ocean, which, a few momentspaft, was gentle and placid, is now throwninto diforder, and heaped into mountains, whofcwhite curling crefls feem to fweep the fkies !This furious gale continued near two days andnights, and not a little damaged our fails, cabinfurniture, and flate-rooms, befides retarding ourpaflage. The florm having abated, a lively galetrom N, W. continued four or five days, whenfhifting to N. and laftly to N. E. on the tenth ofour departure from cape Henlopen, early in themorning, we dcfcried a fail aftern, and in a fliorttime difcovered it to be capt. Mafon, who fooncame up with us. We hailed each other, beingjoyful to meet again, after fo many dangers. Hefutfcred greatly by the gale, but providentiallymade a good harbour within cape Hatteras. As heran by us, he threw on board ten or a dozen bafs,a large and delicious filb, having caught a greatnumber of them whiift he was detained in harbour.He got into Charlefton that evening, and we thenext morning, about eleven o'clock.There are few objects out at fea to attra(5t thenotice of the traveller, but what are fublime, awful,and m.ajeitic : the feas themfelves, in a tempeft,exhibit a tremendous fcene, where the windsaflert their power, and, in furious conflidl, feem tofet the ocean on fire. On the other hand, nothingcan be more fublime than the view of the encirclinghorizon, after the turbulent winds have takentheir flight, and the lately agitated bofom of thedeep has again become calm and pacific ; the gentiemoon rifing in dignity from the eaft, attendedty thoufands of glictering orbs ithe luminous ap-»pearancc

,NORTH AMERICA.appearance of the feas at night, when all the watersfeem tranfmiited into liquid filver , the prodigiousbands of porpoifes foreboding tempeft, that appearto cover the ocean, the mighty whale, fovereic^nof the watery realms, who cleaves the feas in hiscour e; the fudden appearance of land from themnVif^''''^''^S each way, beyond the utmoftreach of %ht, the alternate appearance andrecefs of the coall, whilft th.e far diftant blue hillsflowiy retreat and difappear ; or, as we approachthe coaft, the capes and promontories firflour ftrikefight emerging from the watery expanfe, and,Ike miguty giants, elevating their crefts towardsthe Ikies, the water fuddenly alive with its fcaly inhabitants;fquadrons of fea-fowl fweeping throughthe air, impregnated with the breath of fragrantaromatic trees and flowers; the amplitude%ndmagnificence of thefe fcenes are great indeed,niayandprefent to the imagination, an idea of the firilappearance of the earth to man at the creation.On my arrival at Charlefton, I waited on doftor' S'^^^"^^" of eminence in hisTnd and r Kl-profeffionpublic employments, to whom I was recommendedby my worthy patron, and to whom I wasto apply for counfei and affiftance, for carrving into^^^' dodormetirTVT.^^'^r''''^"^^-recdvedvvith perfedl pohtenels, and, on every occafion,treated me with friendfl.ip ; and by mea'ns of theeftel ""-'k ""^'u \' ^'^' "^^^' ^"d ^he marks ofcu nTed" r'"'^ ^' ^r^^''^ "^'^ ^ became aconfv of r7^ ""'7^°^ '^' ''^''^y ^^'^^i^i^^> not^ 2CHAP.

TRAVELS mCHAP.II.Arriving In Carolina very early in the I'pring,vegetation was not fufficiently advanced to inviteme into the weftern parts of this ilate; from whichcircumftance, I concluded to make an excurfioninto Georgia ; accordingly, I embarked on board acoafting vefTel, and in twenty-four hours arrived inSavanna, the capital, where, acquainting the governor,Sir J. Wright, with my bufinefs, his excellencyrecei/ed me with great politenefs, fliewedme every mark of efteem and regard, and furniflicdme with lettcs to the principal inhabitants ofthe ftatc, which were of great fervice to me. Anothercircumftance very opportunely occurred onmy arrival : the affembly was then fitting in Savanna,and feveral members lodging in the famehoufe where I took up my quarters, I became acquaintedwith feveral worthy characters, who invitedme to call at their feats occafionally, as Ipafled through the country ;particularly the hon.B. Andrews, efq. a diftinguiflied, patriotic, and liberalcharacter. This gentleman's feat, and wellcultivatedplantations, are fituated near the fouthhigh road, which I often travelled j and I feldompafied his houfc without calling to fee him, for itwas the feat of virtue, where hofpitality, piety,and philofophy, formed the happy family i wherethe weary traveller and ftranger found a heariywelcome, and from whence ic mull be his ownfault if he departed without being greatly benefited.After

NORTH AMERICA.After refting, and a little recreation for a fewdavs in Savanna, and having in the mean timepiiichafed a good horfe, and equipped myfclf for ajourney fouthward, I fat off early in the morningfor Siinbuiy, a fea-port town, beautifully fituatedon the main, between Medway and Newport rivers,about fifteen miles foutfi of great Ogeecheriver. The tov/n and haroour are defended fromthe fury of the feas by th^ north and fouth pointsof St. Helena and South Catharine's iflands ; betweenwhich is the bar and entrance into the found :the harbour is capacious and fafe, and has waterenough for fhips of great burthen. I arrived herein the evening, in company with a gentleman, oneof the inhabitants, who politely introduced me toone of the principal families, where I fupped andfpent the evening in a circle of genteel and politeladies and gentlemen. Next day, being defnous ofvifiting the idands, I forded a narrow fhoal, partof the found, and landed on one of them, whichemployed me the whole day to explore. The furfaceand vegetable mould here is generally a loofefand, not very fertile, except fome fpots borderingon the found and inlets, where are found heaps ormounds of fea-fhell, either formerly brought thereby the Indians, who inhabited the illand, or which-were perhaps thrown up in ridges, by the beatingfurface of the lea : poffibly both thefe circumftancesmay have contributed to their formation. Thefefea-fhells, through lengdi of time, and the fubdepenetrating efleCls of the air, which diffolve themto earth, render thefe ridges very fertile ; and,•when clear of their trees, and cultivated, theybecome profufely produftive of almoft every kind>Qf vegcraljlc. Here are alfo large plantations of'B 3 indigo.^

TRAVELS INindigo, corn, and potatoes*, with many other fortsof efculent plants. I obferved, amongft the ihellsof the conical mounds, fragments of earthen veffels,and of other utenfils, the manufadlure of theancients : about the centre of one of them, the rimof an earthen pot appeared amongft the fliells andearth, which I carefully removed, and drew it our,almoft whole : this pot was cunoufly wrought allx)ver the outfide, reprefenting bafket work, and wasundoubtedly eftcemed a very ingenious "performance,by the people, at the age of its conftru6lion.The natural produce of thefe teftaceous ridges, befidesmany of lefs note, are, the great Laurel Tree,(Magnolia grandiflora) Pinus tasda, Laurus Borbonia,Quercus fcmpervirens, or Live Oak, PrunusLauro-cerafus, Ilex aquifolium, Corypha palma,Juniperus Americana. The general furface of theifland being low, and generally level, produces avery great variety of trees, ilirubs and herbaceousplants ; particularly the great long-leaved Pitch-Pine, or Broom-Pine, Pinus paluftris, Pinus fquamofa,Pinus lutea, Gordonia Lafianthus, Liquidambar (Styraciflua) Acer rubrum, Fraxinus excelcior;Fraxinus aquatica, Quercus aquatica, Quercusphillos, Quercus dentata, Quercus humila varietas,Vaccinium varietas, Andromeda varietas, Prinos varietas,Ilex varietas, Viburnum prunifolium, V. dentatum,Cornus florida, C. alba, C. fanguinea, Carpinusbetula, C. oilrya,Itea Clethra alnifolia, Hale-/ia tetraptera, H. diptera, Iva, Rhamnus frangula,Callicarpa, Morus rubra, Sapindus, Caffine, and offuch as grow near water- courfcs, round aboutponds and favannas, Fothergilla gardini, Myricacerifcra, Olea Americana, Cyrilia racemiflora,i'l* Convolvulus batata.Magnolia

NORTH AMERICA, 7Magnolia gkiica, Magnolia pyramidata, Cercis,Kalmia anguftifolia, Kalmia ciliata, Chionanthiis,Cephalanthos, TEfculus parva ;and the interme-.diace fpaces, furrounding and lying between the^ridges and favannas, are interie(5ted with plains ofthe dwarf prickly fan-leaved Palmetto, and lawnso{ grafs variegated with ftarely trees of the greatBroom-Pine, and the fpreading ever-green Water-.Oak, either difpofed in clumps, or fcatteringlyplanted by nature. The upper furface, or vegetativefoil of the iiland, lies on a foundation, or ftratum,of tenacious cinereous-coloured clay, whichperhaps is the principal fupportofthe vaft growthof timber that arifes from the furface, which islittle more than a mixture of tine white fand anddiflblved vegetables, ferving as a nurferybed tohatch or bring into exiftence the infant plant,and to fupply it with aliment and food, fuitable toits delicacy and tender frame, until the roots, acquiringfufficient extent and folidicy to lay hold ofthe clay, foon attain a magnitude and (lability fufficientto maintain its ftation. Probably if this claywere dug our, and caft upon the furface, a'rer beingmeliorated by the faline or nitrous qu.ilities ofthe air, it would kindly incorporate wirh the loofefand, and become a produftive and lading manure.The roebuck, or deer, are numerous on thisifland ; the tyger, wolf, and bear, hold yet fomepofleffion j as alfo raccoons, foxes, hares, fquirreis,rats, and mice, but I think no moles. There isa large ground rat, more than twice the uze of thecommon Norway rat. In the night time it throwsout the earth, forming little mounds, or hillocks,Opollums are here in abundance, as alfo polecats,wild-cats, rattle fnakes, glafs-fnake^ coachwhip-fnake,and a variety of other ferpents.B 4Here

STRAVELS INTHere are alfo a great variety of birds, throughoutthe feafons, inhabiting both fea and land. FirftI fhall name the eagle, of which there are threefpecies. The great grey eagle is the largeft, ofgreat ftrength and high flight ; he chiefly preys onfawns and other young quadrupeds.The bald eagle is likewife a large, ftrong, andvery adive bird, but an execrable tyrant: he fupporrshis aiTumed dignity and grandeur by rapineand violence, extorting unrealbnable tribute andfubfidy from all the feathered nations.The iafl: of this race I fliall mention is the falcopifcatorius,or fxHiing-hawk : this is a large bird,of high and rapid flight ; his wings are very longand pointed, and he fpreads a vaft fail, in proportionto the volume of his body. This princely birdfubfifts entirely on fifli which he takes himfelf,fcorning to live and grow fat on the dear-earnedlabours of another ; he alfo contributes liberally tothe fupport of the bald eagle.Water-fowl, and the various fpecies of land-"birds, alfo abound, moft of which are mentionedby Catelby, in his Hift. of Carohna, particularly hispainted finch (Emberiza Ceris Linn.) exceeded bynone of the feathered tribes, either in variety andJplendour of drcfs,or melody of fong.Catefby's ground doves are alfo here in abundance: they are remarkably beautiful, about thefize of a fparrow, and their loft and plaintive cooingperfeftly enchanting.How challe the dove "! never known to vioLite tlie conjugalcontraft."She flees the feats of envy and llrifc, and fceks the retired pathsof peace.The

NORTH AMERICA.The fight of this delightful and produftlveidand, phced in front of the riling city or Sunbury,quickly induced me t.- explore it; which Iapprehended, from fornner vifits to this coaft,would exhibit a comprehenfive epitome of thehiftory of all the fca-coaft Iflands of Carolina andGeor2:ia, as likewife in eeneral of the coall of themain. And though I confidered this excurfion alongthe coafi: of Gc^O'gia and norcnern border of Florida,a deviciLicn from the high road of my intendedtravels, yet I perfurm.ed it in order to employ tothe moll advantage the time on my hands, beforethe treaty of Augulla came on, where I wa:> to attend,about May or June, by defire of the Superintendant,J. Stewart, efq. who, wht-n I was inCharlefton, propofed, in order to facilitate my travelsin the Indian territoriesj tha", if I would beprefent at the Congrels, he would introduce mybufinefs to the chiefs of the Cherokees, Creeks, andother nations, and recommend me to their friendll;iipand protecftion ; which promife he fully performed,and it proved of great fervice to m.e.Obedient to the admonitions of my attendantfpirit, curiofity, as well as to gratify the expedlationsof my worthy patron, I again fat off on myfouthern excurfion, and leit Sunbury, in companywith feveral of its polite inhabitants, who were goineto Medway meeting, a very large and well-conftrudled••lace or worfhip, in St. John's parifh,where I afibciated with them in religious exercife,and heard a very excellent fermon, delivered bytheir pious and truly venerable paftor, the Rev.Ofgood. This refpeftable congregation isindependent, and confift chiefly of families, and^profelytes

lOTRAVELS INprofelytes to a flock, which this pious man ledabout forty years ago, from South Carolina, andfettled in this fruitful diftrid. It is about ninemiles from Sunbury to Medway meeting- houfe,which ftancls on the high road oppofite the Sunburyroad. As foon as the congregation broke up,I re-aflumed my travels, proceeding down the highroad towards Fort Barrington, on the Alatamaha,pafling through a level country, well watered bylarge ftreams, branches of Medway and Newportrivers, courfing from extenfive fwamps and marfhes,their fources : thefe fwamps are daily clearingand improving into large fruitful rice plantations,agsrandizins; the well inhabited and rich diftri6l ofSt. John's parilh. The road is ftraight, fpacious,and kept in excellent repair by the induilrious inhabitantsi and is generally bordered on each fidewith a light grove, confifting of the following treesand fl:irub3 : Myrica Cerifera, Calycanthus, Halefiatetraptera, I tea ftewartia, Andromeda nidda, Cy^rella racemi flora, entwined with bands and garlandsof BigRonia fempcrvirens, B. crucigera, Lonicerafempervircns and Glycene frutefcens ; thefewere overlhadowed by tall and fpreading trees, asthe Magnolia grandiftora. Liquid ambar, Liriodendron,Catalpa, Quercus fempcrvirens, Quercusdentata, Q^ Phillos ; and on the verges of thecanals, where the road was caufwayed, fbcodthe Cuprefilis difticha, Gordonia Lacianthus, andMagnolia glauca, all planted by nature, and leftftanding by the virtuous inhabitants, to fhade theroad, and perRnne the fultry air. The extenfiveplantations of rice and corn, now in early verdure,decorated here and there with groves of floritcrousand fragrant trees and Ihrubs, under thecover

NORTH AMERICA.cover and protection of pyramidal laurels andplumed palms, which now and then break throughupon the fight from both fides of the way as we paisalong ; the eye at intervals ftealing a view at thehumble, but elegant and neat habitation, of thehappy proprietor, amidll harbours and groves, allday, and moon-light nights, filled with the melodyof the cheerful inockbird, warbhng nonpareil, andplaintive turtle-dove, altogether prefent a view ofmagnificence and joy, inexpreflibly charming andanimating.In the evenins; I arrived at the feat of the lion.B. Andrews, efq. who received and entertained mcin every refpeft, as a worthy gentleman could aftranger, that is, v/ith hearty welcome, plain butplentiful board, free converfation and liberality offentiment. I fpent the evening very agreeably, andthe day following (for I was not permitted to departfooner) : I viewed with pleafure this gentleman'sexemplary improvements in agriculture ; particularlyin the growth of rice, and in his machines forflielling that valuable grain, which {lands in thewater almoO: from the time it is fown, until withina few days before it is reaped, when they draw offthe water by fluices, which ripens it all at once, andwhen the heads or panicles are dry ripe, it is reapedand left Handing in the field, in fmall ricks, untilall the ftraw is quite dry, when it is hauled, andftacked in the barn- yard. The machines for cleaningthe rice are worked by the force of water.They Hand on the great refervoir which containsthe waters that flood therice-fields below.Towards the evening we made a little party atfifliing. We chofe a (haded retreat, in a beautifulgrove of magnolias, myrtles, and Iweet bay-trees^whichIt

12 TRAVELS INwhich' were left Handing on the bank of a finecreek, that, from this place, took a flow ferpentinecourfe through the plantation. We prefentlytook foaie fifh, one kind of which is very beautiful;they call it the red- belly. It is as large as aman's hand, nearly oval and thin, being comprefTedon each fide ; the tail is beautifully formed ; thetop of the head and back of an olive-green, befprinklcdwith rufiet fpecks ; the fides of a feagreen,inclining to azure, infenfibly blended withthe olive above, and beneath lightens to a filverywhite, or pearl colour, elegantly powdered withfpecks of the fineft green, rufiet and gold ; thebeliy is of a bright fcarlet-red, or vermillion, dartingup rays or fiery ftreaks into the pearl on eachfide ; the ultimate angle of the branchioftega extendsbackwards with a long fpatula, ending witha round or oval particoloured fpot, reprefentingthe eye in the long feathers of a peacock's train,verged round with a thin flame- coloured membrane,and appears like a brilliant ruby fixed onthe fide oftlie fifh ; the eyes are large, encircledwith a fiery iris ; they are a voracious fi(h, and aretafily caught with a fuitable bait.The next morning I took leave of this worthyfamily, and fat off for the fettlements on the Alatamaha,ft ill purfuing the high road for P'ort Barrington,till towards noon, when I turned off tothe left, following the road to Darian, a fettlementon the river, twenty miles lower down, and nearthe coaft-. The fore part of this day's journey waspleafanc, die plantations frequent, and the roads intolerable good repair ; but the country being nowlefs cultivated, the roads became bad. 1 piirfued myjourney almoft continually through fwamps andcreeks, v/aters of Newport and Sapcllo, till nijiht,when

NORTH AMERICA.IJv/hen I loll fny way: but coming up to a fence, Ifaw a glimmering light, which conduced me to ahoLife, where I itayed all night, and met with verycivil entertainment. Early next morning I fat offagain, in company with the overfeer of the farm,who piloted me through a large and difficult fwamp,when we parted ; he in chafe of deer, and I towardsDarian. I rode feveral miles through ahigh foreft of pines, thinly growing on a level plain,which admitted an ample view, and a free circulationof air, to another fwamp : and crofTing a confiderablebranch of Sapello river, I then came to afmall plantation by the fide of another fwamp : thepeople were remarkably civil and hofpitable. Theman's name was M*Intofh, a family of the firft colonyeftabliflied in Georgia, under the conduct ofgeneral Oglethorpe. Was there ever fuch a fceneof primitive fimplicity, as wa3 here exhibited, fincethe days of the good king Tammany ! The venerablegrey-headed Caledonian fmilingly meets mecoming up to his houfe. " Welcome, ftranger ;come in, and reft ; the air is now very fukry ; itis a very hot day." I was there treated with fomeexcellent venifon, and here found friendly and fecurefhelter from a tremendous thunder ftorm, whichcame up from the N. W. and foon after my arrivalbegan to difcharge its fury all around. Steppingto the door to ooferve the progrefs and directionof the tempelt, the fulgour and rapidity ofthe ftreams of lightning, palTing from cloud to cloud,and from the clouds to tlie earth, exhibited a veryawful fcene ; when inftantly the lightning, as itwere, opening a fiery chafm in the black cloud,darted with inconceivable rapidity on the trunk of alarge pine-tree, that fi:ood thirty or forty yards fromme, and fet it in a blnze. The flame inftantly3 afcended

t4 TRAVELS INafcehdedupwards of ten or twelve feet, and contiiiiiedflaming about fifteen minutes, wlien it was graduallyextlnguiflied by the deluges of fain that fellupon it.I faw ^ere a remarkably large turkey of the nativewild breed -, his head was above three feetfrom the ground when he flood ereft ; he was allately beautiful bird, of a very dark dufky browncolour, the tips of the feathers of his neck, bread,back, and fhoulders, edged with a copper colour,which in a certain cxpofure looked like burnifhedgold, and he feemed not infenfible of the Iplendidappearance he made. He was reared from an egg,found in the foreil, and hatched by a hen of thecommon domeftic fowl.Our turkey of America is a very different fpecicsfrom the meleagris of Afia and Europe ; theyare nearly thrice their fize and weight. I have i'ecnfeveral that have weighed between twenty andthirty pounds, and fome have been killed thatweighed near forty. They are taller, and have amuch longer neck proportionally, and likewifelonger legs, and Hand more eredl j they are aliovery different in colour. Ours are all, male andfemale, of a dark brown colour, not having a blackfeather on them ; but the male exceedingly fplendid,with changeable colours. In other particularsthey diiFer not.The temped being over, I waited till the floodsof rain had run off tne ground, then took leave ofmy friends, and departed. The air was now cooland falubrious, and riding {even or eight miles,through a pine foreft, I came to Sapello bridge,to which the fait tide flows. I here fl:opped, at4 Mr,

NORTH AMERICA.IjMr. Bailey's,to deliver a letter from the governor.This c-entleman received me very civilly, invitingme to ftay with him ; but upon my urging the neceflltyof my accelerating my journey, he permittedme to proceed to Mr. L. M'lntoJfh's, near the river,to vvhofe friendihip I was recommended by Mr. B.Andrews.Perhaps, to a grateful mind, there is no intelleftualenjoyment, which regards human concerns,of a more excellent nature, than the remembranceof real a6i:s of friendihip. The heart expands atthe pleafing recolledlion. When I came up to hisdoor, the friendly man, fmiling, and with a graceand dignity peculiar to himfelf, took m.e by thehand, and accofted me thus**: Friend Bartram," come under my roof, and I delire you to make my" houfe your home, as long as convenient to your-" felf Jremember, from this moment, that you aret* a part of my family, and, on my part, I fhall en-" deavour to make it agreeable, " which Was verifiedduring my continuance in, and about, thefouthern territories of Georgia and Florida ; for Ifound here fincerity in union with all the virtues, underthe influence of religion. I fhall yet mentiona remarkable inftance of Mr. M'Intofh's friendihipand refpe

61TRAVELS mCHAP.III.I SAT off early in the morning for the Indiantrading-houfe, in the river St. Mary^ and took theroad up the N. E. fide of the Alatamaha to Fort-Barringtcn. I paffed through a well-inhabited diftrict,nr»

NORTH AMERICA.Ijveftlges of an ancient Indian town may be feen,fiich as old cxtenfivc fields, and conical mounds,or artificial heaps of earth. I here crofled the river,which is about five hundred yards over, in agood large boat, rowed by a Creek Indian, whowas married to a white woman ; he feemed an active,civil, and fenfible man. I faw large, tall treesof the NyiTa coccinea, fi. Ogeeche, growing on thebanks of the river. They grow in the water, neai*the Ihore. There is no tree that exhibits a moredefirable appearance than this, in the autumn,when the fruit is ripe, and the tree diverted of itsleaves; for then they look as red as fcarlet, withtheir fruit, which is of that colour alfo. It is ofthe fliape, but larger than the olive, containing anagreeable acid juice. The leaves are oblong, lanceolateand entire, fomicwhat hoary underneath}their upper furface of a full green, and fhining;the petioles Oiort, pedunculis mukifloris. The moftnorthern fettlement of this tree, yet known, is onGreat Ogeeche, where they are called Ogeechelimes, from their acid fruit being about the fize oflimes, and their being fometimes ufed in theirftead.Being fafely landed on the oppofite bank, Imounted my horfe, and followed the high road tothe ferry on St. Ille, about fixty miles fouth of the.Alatamaha, paffing through an uninhabited wilderiiefs.The fudden tranfition from rich cultivatedfettiements, to high pine forefts, dark and graffyfavannas, forms in my opinion no difagreeable contratls; and the new objefts of obfervation in theworks of nature foon reconcile the furprifed imaginationto the change. As foon as I had loft fightof the river, afcending fome fand-hillsj I obfervedCa new

idTRAVELS INa new and moft beautiful fpecies of Annona, FiaTingclufters of large white fragrant flowers ; and adiminutive but elegant Kalmia. The ftems arevery fmall, feeble, and for the moft part undivided,furnifhed with little ovate pointed leaves, and terminatewith a fi mple racemi, or fpike of flowers,falver formed, and of a deep rofe red. The wholeplant is ciliated. It grows in abundance all overthe moift favannas, but more efpecially near pondsand bay-Iwamps. In flmilar f]tuations, and commonlya near neighbour to this new Kalmia, is {etna very curious fpecies of Annona. It is very dwarf^the fliems feldom extending from the earth morethan a foot or eighteen inches, and are weak andalmofl: decumbent. The leaves are long, extremelynarrow, aimofl: lineal. However, fmall as they are,they retain the figure common to the fpecies, thatis, lanceolate^ broadeft at the upper end, and attenuatingdown to the petiole, vi^hich is very fhort -,their leaves ftand alternately, nearly ered;, formingtwo feries, or wings, on the arcuated ftems. Theflowers, both in fize and colour, refemble thofe ofthe Antrilobe, and are fingle from the axilla ofthe leaves on incurved pedunculi, nodding downwards.I never faw the fruit. The dens, or caverns,dug in the find-hills, by the great land-tortoife,called here Gopher *, prefent a very Angularappearance : thefe vaft caves are their caftles anddiurnal retreats, from- v/hence they ifliie forth inthe nighr, in fearch of prey. The little mounds,or hillocks of frefli earth, thrown up in great numbersin the night, have alfo a curious appearance.In the evening I arrived at a cow-pen, wheic• Teftudo Polypliemws,thera

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there was a habitation, and the people received mcvery civilly. I ftaid here all night, and had forfupper plenty of milk, butter, and very good checfeof their own make, which is a novelty in the maritimeparts of Carolina and Georgia} the inhabitantsbeing chiefly fiipplied with it from Europe and thenorthern ftates. The next day's progrefs, in general,prefented fcenes fimilar to the preceding,though the land is lower, more level and humldyand the produce more varied : high open forefts of(lately pines, flowery plains, and extenfive greenfavannas, chequered with the incarnate Chironiapulcherrima, and Afclepias fragrans, perfumed theair whillt they pleafed the eye. I met with fometroublefome cane fwamps, faw herds of hornedcatde, horfes and deer, and took notice of a procumbentfpecies of Hibifcus, the leaves palmated,the flowers large and expanded, pale yellow andwhite, having a deep crimfon eye ; the whole plant,except the corolla, armed with flifi^ hair. I alfofaw a beautiful fpecies of Lupin, having palegreen villous Ungulate* leaves; die flowers aredifpofed in long ere6t fpikes ; fome pla ts produceflowers of the fineft celeftial blue, others incarnate,and fome milk white, and though they all threefeem to be varieties of one fpecies, yet they afl"ociatein feparate Communities, fomedm.es approachingnear each other's border, or in fight at a diftance.Their difl:ri6ls are ficuated on dry fandyheights, "in open pine forefts, which are naturallythin of undergrowth, and appear to great ad vantagCjgenerally, where they are found, they occupymany acres of furface. The vegetative mouldIS compofed of fine v;hite fand, mixed, and coloured,with diflblved and calcined vegetable fubltances j* Lupinus breuQij, foFii-. integerimU eblongis villofis.C 2buc

toTRAVELS INbut this (Iratum is not very deep, and covers one ofa tenacious cinereous coloured clay, as we may obferveby the earth adhering to the roots of trees,torn up by ftorms, &c. and by the Httle chimnies>or air holes of cray-fifii, which perforate the favannas.Turkeys, quails, and fmall birds, are here tobe feen ; but birds are not numerous in defert foreftsJthey draw near to the h..bitations of men, asI have conllantly obferved in allmy travels.I arrived at St. I lie's in the evening, where Ilodged,and next mornings having crofTcd over in aferry beat, fat forward for St. Mary's. The fituationof the territory, its foil and productions, betweenthefe two laft rivers, are nearly fimilar tothofe which I had palled over, except that the favannasare more frequent and extenfive.It may be proper to obferve, that I had nowpaffed the utmoft frontier of the white fettiementson that border. It. was drawing on towards theclofe of day, the lines ferene and calm, the air temperatelycool, and gentle zephyrs breathing throughthe fragrant pines j the profpecl around enchantinglyvaried and beautiful ; endlefs green favannas,chequered with coppices of fragrant flirubs, filledthe air with the richeft perfume. The gaily attiredplants which enamelled the green had begunto imbibe the pearly due of eveaing ; nature feemedfiienr, and nothing appeared to ruffle the happymoments of evening contemplation ; when, on aludden, an Indian appeared croffing the path, at aconfiderable diftance before in..\ On perceivingthat he was armed with a rifle, the firfl fight of himftartled me, and I endeavoured to elude his fight,by Hopping my pace, and keeping large trees betweenusi but he efpicd me, and turning fhortabout.

NORTH AMERICA. 21aboiir, fat fpnrs to his horfe, and came up on fullgallop. I never before this was afraid at the fightof an Indian, but at this time, I mull ^^wn that myfpirits were very much agitated : I fa-w at once,that, being unarmed, I was in his power -, and havingnow but a few moments to prepare, I refignedmyfelf entirely to the will of the Almighty, truftingto his mercies for my prefervation : my mindthen became tranquil, and I refolved to meet thedreaded foe with refoluti.in and chearful confidence.The intrepid Siminole (topped f.iddenly,three or four yai-ds before me, and filencly viewedme, his countenance angry and fierce, fhifting hisrifle from fhoulder to flioulder, and looking aboutinflantly on all fides. I advanced towards him, andwith an air of confidence ofi-ered him my hand,hailing him, brothc^r j at this he haftily jerkedback his arm, with a look of malice, rage, and difdain,feeming every way difcontented ; when againlooking at me more attentively, he intlancly Ipurredup to me, and with dignity inhis look and action,gave me his hand. Pollibly the filent language ofhis foul, during the moment of fufpenfe (for I believehis defign was to kill m.e when he firfi: cameup) was after this manner : " White man, thou" art my enemy, and thou and thy brethren may" have killed mine ; yet it may not be fo, and even" were that the cafe, thou art now alone, and in" my power. Live ; the Great Spirit forbids me" to touch thy life; go to thy brethren, tell them" thou faweft an Indian in the forefts, who knew" how to be humane and compalfionate." In fine,we lliook hands,' and parted in a friendly manner,in the midft of a dreary wildernefs ; and he informedme of the courfe and diftance to the tradinghoufe,where I found he had been extremely liltreatedthe day before.C 3 I now

:t2TRAVELS INI now fat forward again, and after eight or tenmiles riding-, arrived at the banks of St. Mary's,oppofue the ftores, and got fafe over before dark.The river is here about one hundred yards acrofs,has ten feet water, and, following its courfe, aboutilxty miles to the fea, though but about twentymiles by land. The trading company here receivedand treated me with great civility. On relatingmy adventures on the road, particularly the laftwi:h the Indian, the chief replied, with a countenancethat at once befpoke furprife and pleafure,*'My friend, confidtr yourfelf a fortunate man:*^ that fellow," faid he, " is one of the greateft v'lU*' lains on earth, a noted murderer, and outlawed'^by his countrymen. Laft evening he was here," we took his gun from him, broke it in pieces,-'*and gave him a fevere drubbing : he, however,*' made his efcape, carrying off a new rifle gun,*'with which, he faid, going off, he would kill** the firft white man he met."On ferioufly contemplating the behaviour of thisIndian towards me, fo foon after his ill treatment,the following train of fentiments infenfibly crowdedin upv^n my mind.Can it be denied, but that the moral principle,which dire6ls the favages to, virtuous and praifeworthyadlions, is naiural or innate ? It is certainthey have not the affiftance of letters, or thofemeans ot education in the fchools of philolbphy,where the virtuous ftntiments and actions of themoft jUuftrious charadcrs are recorded, and carefullylaid before the youth of civilized nationstherefore this moral principle muft be innate, orthey mull be under the immediate influence andguidance of a more divine and powerful preceptor,who,-

NORTH AMERICA,Vho, on thefe occafions, inftantly infpires them,and as with a ray of divine light, points out to themat once the dignity, propriety, and beauty of virtue.The land on, and adjacent to, this river, notwithftandingits arenacec:-: (iirface, appears naturallyfertile. The peacli trees are large, hcaltny,and fruitful ; and Indian corn, rice, cotton, andindigo, thrive exceedingly. This faady furface,one would fuppofe, from its loofe texture, wouldpoflefs a percolating quality, and fufFer the rainwatersquickly to drain off; but it is quite the contrary,at leaft in thefe low maritime fandy countriesof Carolina and Florida, beneath the mountains; for in the fands, even the heights, where thearenaceous ftratum is perhaps five, eight, and tenfeet above the clay, the earth, even in the longeftdroughts, is moift an inch or two under the furface ;whereas, in the rich tenacious low lands, at luchtimes, the ground is dry, and, as it were, bakedmany inches, and fometimes fome feet deep, and thecrops, as well as almoft all vegetation, fuffer infuch foils and fituations. The reafon of this maybe, that this kind of earth admits more freely of atranfpiration of vapours, arifing from inteftine waterycanals to the furface; and probably thefe vapoursare impregnated with faline or nitrous principles,friendly and nutritive to vegetables; however,of thefe caufes and fecret operations of natureI am ignorant, and refume again nxy proper employment,that of difcovering and colle

;S4TRAVELS INwith beds of violets, lupins, Amaryllis atamafco,and plants of a new and very beautiful fpecies ofMimofa fenfitiya, which I think as admirable andmore charming than the celebrated Humble plant,equally chafte and fearful of thehafty touch of thefurpriffrd admirer. The flov;er is larger, of a brightdamafic rofe colour, and exceedingly fragrant : thewhole plant is deftitute of prickles, but hairy : it isprocumbent, reclining itfelf upon the green turf,and from thefe trailing branches proceeds an uprightpeluncle, fix or eight inches high, fupporting anoblong head of flowerets, which altogether, at afmall diflance, have the appearance of an exuberantfield of clover j and, what is fingular, andrichly varies the fcene, there are interfperfedpatches of the fame fpecies of plants, having flowersof the finefi: golden yellow, and others fnow whitebut the incarnate is moil prevalent. Magnoliaglauca, Itea Clethra, Chionanthus, Gordonia lafianthus,Ilex anguftifolium, Olea Americana, Hopeatindoria, i^c. are feated in detached grovesor clumps, round about the ponds or little lakes,at the lower end of the favannas. I obferved,growing on the banks of this fequefl:ered river, thefollo'.ving trees and fhrubs : Quercus fempervirens,Q^aquatica, Q^Phillos, Q^dentata, Nyfla aquatica,N. fylvanca, N. Ogeeche, fi. coccinea, Cupreffusdiliicha, Fraxinus aquatica, Rhamnus frangula,Piunus laurocerafa, Cyrilla racemiflora, Myricarerifera, Andromeda fcrruginia, Andr. nitida, andthe great evergreen Andromeda of Florida, calledPipe-flem Wood, to vhich I gave the name of Andromedaformofilfima, as it far exceeds in beautyevery one ot diis family.lake,The river St. Mary has its fource from a vaftor marlh, called Ouaquaphenogawj which liesbetween

NORTH AMERICA.between Flint and Oakmulge river-,SJand occupiesa fpace of near three hundred miles in circuit.This vafl accumulation of waters, in the wet feafon,appears as a lake, and contains fome large iflandsor knolls, of rich high land -, one of which the prefentgeneration of the Creeks reprelent to be a moftblifsfui fpot of the earth : thf^y lay it is inhabitedby a peculiar race of Indians, whofe women are incomparablybeauiiifuli they alfo tell you that thisterreftiial paradife has been facn by lome of theirenterprifing hunters, when in purfuit of game, whobeing loft in inextricable fwamps and bogs, and onthe point of perifhing, were unexpe:ledly relievedby a company of beautiful women, wiiom they calldaughters of the fun, who kin.ily gave them .fuchprovifions as they had with them, which werechiefly fruit, oranges, date.s, &c. and fome corncakes, and then enjoined them to fly for fifety totheir own country; for that their hufbinds werefierce men, and cruel to ibangcrs : they furtherfay, that thefe hunters had a view of their Icttlements,fituatcd on the elevated banks of an ifland,or promontory, in a beautiful lake ; but that intheir endeavours to approach it, they were involvedin perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchantedknd, ftiil as they imagined they had juft gained it,it feemed to fly before them, alternately appearingand dilappearing. They refolved, at length, toleave the delufu^e purfuit, and to return; which,after a number of inexprelTible difficulties, they effected.When they reported their adventures totheir countrymen, their young warriors were enflamedwith an irrefiftible defire to invade, andmake a conqueft of, lb charming a country; butall their attempts hitherto have proved abortive,never having been able again to find that enchanting

;26 TRAVELS i:fchanting fpor, nor even any road or pathway/ toyet they fay tiiat they frequently meet with certainfigns of its being inhabited, as the building of canoes,footfteps of men, &c. They tell anotherftory concerning the inhabitants of this fequefccredcountry, which feems probable enough, which is,that they ar^K the pollerity of a fogitive remnant ofthe ancient Yamafes, v/ho eicaped mafiacre after abloody and decifive conBicl between them and theCreek nation (who, it is certain, conqviered, andnearly exterminated, that once powerful people),and here found an afykirn, remote and fecure fromthe fury of their proud conquerors. It is, however,certain that there is a vaft lake, or drowned fwamp,well known, and often vifited both by white and Indianhunters, and on its environs the moft valuablehunting grounds in Florida, well worth contendingfor, by tholb powers whofe territories border uponit. From this great fource of rivers *, St. Maryariles, and nieanders through a vait plain and pineforeft, near an hundred and fifty miles to the ocean,with which it communicates, between the points ofAmelia and Talbert iQands ; the waters flow deepand gently dov^rn from its fource to the fea.Having made my obfervations on the vegetableprodudions of this part of the country, and obtainedIpecimens and feeds of fome curious treesand fhrubs (which were the principal objedt of thisexcurfion) I returned by the fame road to die Alatamaha,and arrived fafe again at the ieat of mygood friend, L. M'lntofh, Efq. where I tarried afew days to reft and refrelh myfelfj and to wait forit* Source of rivers. It is faid, that St. llle, St. Mary, and the beautifulriver, Little St. Junn, which difcharj^es its ivaters into the bay of Apalachi,al St. M.irk's, take their rife from tiiis fwaropmy

NORTH AMERICA.TTfxny young companion and fellow pilgrim, Mr. JohnM'lntofh, who, being fond of the enterprife, hadbeen fo aftive during my ablence, in the neceffarypreparations, that we had nothing to wait for nowbut Mrs. M'lntofh's final confent to give up herfon to the perils and hardfliips of fo long a journey;which difficult point being fettled, we fet off withthe prayers and benevolent wifhes of my companion'sworthy parents.CHAP.

,mained2$ T^RAVELS INCHAP.IV.Early inthe morning, we mounted our horfes,and in tv/o days arrived in Savanna ; here we learnedthat the fuperintendant of Indian affairs had leftthe capital, and was on his way to Auguila. I rebutone day in Savanna, which was employedin making up and forwarding the coUeftionsforCharleiton.The day following we fet off for Augufla,whichis on Savanna river, at leaft an hundred and fiftymiles by land from the capital, and about three hundredby water. We foliov/ed the courfe of theriver, and arrived there after having had a profperousjourney, though a littleheats of the feafon.incommoded by theAs nothing very material occurred on the road,I iliall proceed to give a fummary account of theobfej vations I made concerning the foil, fituation,and natural produ6lions of the country.In' our progrefs from the fea coaft, we rife gradually,by feveral fteps or afcents, in the followingmanner : Firft, from the fea coaft, fifty miles back,is a level plain, generally of a loofe fandy foil,producing fpacious high forefts, of Pinus tasda, P.lutea, P. Iquarrola, P. echinata, i. Quercus fempervirens,2. Quercus aquadca, j. Q^phillos, 4- Q^tinftoria^ 5. Q^dentata, 6. Q^prinos, 7. Q^ alba,8. Q^ finuata, 9. Q^ rubra, Liriodendron tuli-I. Live 0;ik. z. Delln-lenvcd Warer Onk. 7. Wlllow-leaveJ Osk. 4. GreatBl.ick 0;il

NORTH AMERICA.1^pifera, Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Morus rubra,Cercis tilia, Populiis heterophylla, P-Jatanus occidentalis,Laurus faflafras, Laurus Borbonia, Hopeatinftoria, Fraxinus cxcelfior, Nyfl;i, Ulmus,Juglans exaltata, Halcfa, Stcwartia. Nearly onethirdof this vaft plain is what the inhabitants callfwamps, which are the fources of numerous fmallrivers and their branches : thefe they call fait rivers,becaiife the tides flow near to their fources,and generally carry a good depth and breadth ofwater for fmall craft, twenty or thirty miles upwardsfrom the fea, when they branch and Ipreadabroad like an open hand, interlocking with eachother, and forming a chain of fwamps acrofs theCarolinas and Georgia, feveral hundred miles parallelwith the fea coaft. Tliefe fwamps are ftrdand repleniihed conilantly by an infinite number ofrivulets and rills, which fpring out of the firft bankor afcent : their native trees and llirubs are, befidesmoft of thofe already enumerated above, as follow:Acer rubrum, Nylla aquatica, Chionantlius, Celtis,Fagus fylvatica, Sambricus ; and the higher knollsafford beautiful clumps of Azalea nuda and Azaleavifcofa, Corypha palma, Corypha pumila, and Magnoliagrandiflora j befides, the whole furface of dieground between the trees and flirubs appear to beoccupied with canes (Arundo gigantea) entangledwith feftoons of the floriferous Glycine frucelCens,Bignonia fempervirens, Glycine apios, Smilax, variousfpecies, Bignonia crucigera, Bign. radic.ms,Lonicera fempervirens, and a multitude of ochcr'trees, fhrubs, and plants lefs confpicuous ; and, invery wet places, Cuprefllis diilicha. The upperfoil of thefe fwamps is a perfeflly black, foapy,rich earth, or ftifF mud, two or three (cQl deep,on a foundation or flrarum of calcareous fofTiJ,5 which

joTRAVEtS INwhich tfie inhabitants call white marie j aiicl this f«the heart or ftrength of thefe fwamps : they neverwear out or become poor, but, on the contrary,are more fertile by tillage -, for when they turn upthis white marie,the air and winter frofts caufing itto fall like quicklime, it manures the furface : butit has one difadvantage, that is, in great droughts,when they cannot have water fufficient in their refervoirsto lay the furface of the ground under water,it binds, and becom.es (o tough as to burnand kill the crops, efpecially the old cleared lands ;as, while it w as frefh and new, the grc at quantityof rotten wood, roots, leaves, &c kept the furfaceloofe and open. Severe droughts feldom happennear the fea coaft.We now rife a bank of confiderable height, whichruns nearly parallel to the coafl", through Carolinaand Georgia : the afcent is gradual by feveralflights or fteps for eight or ten miles, the perpendicularheight whereof, above the level of theocean, may be two or three hundred fret (and thefcare called the fand-hills), when we find ourfelves onthe entrance of a vafl plain, generally level, whichextends weft fixty or feventy miles, rifing gently a$^the former, but more perceptibly. This plain is moftlya foreft of the great long-leaved pine (P. pakiftrisLinn.) the earth covered with grafs, interfpcrfedwith an infinite variety of herbaceous plants, andembellifl:ied with extenfive favannas, always green,Iparklmg with ponds of water, and ornamentedwith Clumps of evergreen, and other trees andftiriibs, as Magnolia grandiflora. Magnolia glauca,Gordonia, Illex aquifolium, Quercub, various fpecies,Lauruo Borbonia, Chionanthus, Hopea tindoria,Cyrilla> Kalm.ia apguftifolia, Andromeda, va^

NORTH AMERICA.^trieties, Viburnum, Azalea, Rhus vernix, Prinos,varieties, Fothergilla, and a new fnrub of greatbeauty and fingularity ; it grows ere

JitRAVJLS INthe fame appearance with the great forefl laft mentioned; its vegetable produftions nearly the fame^excepting that the broken ridges by which we afcendto the plain are of a better foil ; the vegetativemould is mixed with particles of clay and fmallgravel, and the foil of a dufl^y brown colour, lyingon a ftratum of reddifh brown tough clay. Thetrees and fhrubs are, Pinus tasda, great black Oak,Quercus tin6loria, Q^ rubra, Laurus, Saffafras, Magnoliagrandiflora, Cornus Florida, Cercis, Halefia,Juglans acuminata, Juglms exaltata, Andromedaaiborea : and, by the fides of rivulets (which windabout and between thefe hills and fwamps, in thevales) Styrax latifolia, Ptelea trirbliata, Stewartia,Calycanthus, Chionanthus, Magnolia tripetala, A-zalea and others.Thus have I endeavoured to give the reader a'Ihort and natural defcription of the vaft plain lyingbetween the region of Augufta and the fea coaft ;for from Augufta the mountainous country begins(when compared to the level fandy plain alreadypafied), although it is at leaft an hundred and fiftymiles weft, thence to the Cherokee or ApalacheaniTiountains ; and this fpace m.ay with propriety becalled the hilly country, every where fertile and delightful,continually replenifned by innumerable rivulets,either courfing about the fragrant hills, orfpringing from the rocky precipices, and formingmany cafcadesj the coolnefs and purity of whichwaters invigorate the air of this otherwife hot andfultry climate.The villap;e of Augufta is fituated on a rich andfertile plain, on the Savanna river ; the buildingsare near its banks, and extend nearly two miles upto the catarafts, or falls, which are formed by thefirft

;NORTH AMERtCA.firft chain of rocky hills, through which this famousriver forces itfelf, as if impatient to repofeon the extenfive plain before it invades the ocean.When the river is low, which is during the fummermonths, the catarafts are four or five feet in heightacrofs the river, and the waters continue rapid andbroken, rufliing over rocks five miles higher up :this river is near five hundred yards broad atAugufta.A few days after our arrival at Augufta, thechiefs and warriors of the Creeks and Cherokeesbeing arrived, the Congrefs and the bufinefs of thetreaty came on, and the negociations continued undeterminedmany days ; the merchants of Georgiademanding at leaft two millions of acres of land,from the Indians, as a difcharge of their debts,due, and of long Handing : the Creeks, on theother hand, being a powerful and proud Ipiritedpeople, their young warriors were unwilling to fubmitto fo large a demiand, and their condu6l evidentlybetrayed a difpoficion to difpute the groundby force of arms, and they could not at firil bebrought to liften to reafon and amicable termshowever, at length, the cool and deliberate counfelsof the ancient venerable chiefs, enforced byliberal prefents of fuitable goods, were too powerfulinducements for them any longer to refill,and finally prevailed. The treaty concludedin unanimity, peace, and good order; andthe honourable fuperintendant, not forgetting hispromife to me, at the conclufion, mentioned mybufinefs, and recommended me to the protc6lion ofthe Indian chiefs and warriors.^^The prefents beingdiflributed among the Indians, they departed, returninghome to their towns. A company of fur-Dveyors

^4tRAVELS r^fveyors were appointed by the governor and council,to afcertain the boundaries of the nev/ purchafe;they were to be attended by chiefs of theIndians, feleded and delegated by their countrymen,to afiift, and be wicneffes that the articles ofthe treaty were fulfilled, as agreed to by both partiesin Congreis.Col, Barnet, who was chofen to conduct thisbufinefs on the part of the Georgians, a gentlemanevery v/ay qualified for that important truft, in avery friendly and obliging manner, gave me an invitationto accompany him on thistour.It was now about the middle of the month ofMay; vegetation, in perfe6lion, appeared with allher aftraftive charms, breathing fragrance everywhere ; the atmofphere was now animated with theefficient principle of vegetative life; the arbuftivehills, gay lawns, and green meadows, which onevery fide inveft the villa of Augufta, had alreadyreceived my frequent vifits ; and although heremuch delighted with the new beauties in the vegetablekingdom, and many eminent ones have theirfequeftered refidence near this place, yet, as I wasnever long fatisfied with prefent pofieffion, howeverendowed with every poffible charm to attraft thefight, or intrinfic value to engage and fix theeiteem, I was reftlefs to be fearching for more,my curiofity being infatiablc.Thus it is with regard to our afFetflions and attachments,in the more important and intereftingconcerns of human life.Upon the rich rocky hills at the catara

KORTH AMERICA* 35ferrugineiim, white-robed philadelphus inodoriis,and cerulean malva ; but nothing in vegetable naturewas more pleafing than the odoriferous pancratiumfluitans, which alnnoft alone pofiTefTes the littlerocky iflets which juft appear above the water.The preparatory bufinefs of thefurveyors beingnow accompliflied, Mr. J. M-'Intofh, yet anxiousfor travelling, and delirons to accompany me on thistour, joined with me the caravan, confifling of furveyors,aftronomers, artifans, chain-carriers, markers,guides, and hunters, befides a very refpeftablenumber of gentlemen, who joined us, in order tofpeculate in the lands, together with ten or twelveIndians, altogether to the number of eighty orninety men, all or moft of us well mounted onhorfeback, befides twenty or thirty pack-horfes,loaded with provifions, tents, and camp equipage.The fummer feafon now rapidly advancing, theair at mid-day, about this region, was infufferablyhot and fultry. We fat off from Augufta, early inthe morning, for the Great Buffalo Lick, on theGreat Ridge, which feparates the waters of the Savannaand Alatamaha, about eighty miles diftantfrom Augufta. At this Lick the furveyors were tofeparate themfelves, and form three companies,to proceed on different routes. On the evening ofthe fecond day's journey, we arrived at a fmall villageon Little River, a branch of the Savanna : thisvillage called Wrightfborough, was founded byJof. Mattock, efq. of the left called quakers. Thispublic fpirited man having obtained for himfelfand his followers a diftricl, comprehending upwardsof forty thoufand acres of land, gave the newtown this name, in honour of fir James Wright,then governor of Georgia, who greatly promotedD 2the

^6 TRAVELS mthe eftabllfhment of the fettlement. Mr. Mattock,now about feventy years of age, healthy andwho isa6tive, and prefides as chief magiftrate of the fettlement,received us with great hofpitahty. Thediftance from Augufta to this place is about thirtymiles; the face of the country is chiefly a plain ofhigh forefts, favannas, and cane fwamps, undl weapproach Little River, when the landfcape varies,prefenting to view high hills and rich vales. Thefoil is a deep, rich, dark mould, on a deep flratumof reddifh brown tenacious clay, and that on a foundationof rocks which often break through bothftrata, lifting their backs above the furface. Theforeft trees are chiefly of the deciduous order, as,quercus tindloria, q. liciniata, q. alba, q. rubra,q. prinus, with many other fpecies ; celtus, fagusfylvatica, and, on the rocky hills, fagus cafl:anea,fag. pumila, quercus caftanea .; in the rich vales,juglans nigra, jug. cinerca, gleditfia triacanthos,magnolia acuminata, liriodendron, platanus, fraxinusexcelfior, cercea, juglans, exaltata, carpinus,morus rubra, calycanthus, halefia, asfculus pavia,aefc. arborea.Leaving the pleafant town of Wrlghtfborough,we continued eight or nine miles through a fertileplain and high forefl:,to the north branch of LittleRiver, being the largeft of the two, croiTing which,we entered an extenflve fertile plain, bordering onthe river, and fliaded by trees of vaft growth, whichat once fpoke its fertility. Continuing fome timethrough thefe fhady groves, the fcene opens, anddifclofes to view the mofl magnificent foreft I hadever feen. We rofe gradually a Hoping bank oftwenty or thirty feet elevation, and immediatelyentered this fublime foreft. The ground is perfe6tlya level

NORTH AMERICA. 37a level green plain, thinly planted by nature w'tlithe moll ftately foreil trees, fuch as the gigar:icblack * oak (q. tin6loria), liriodendron, juglansnigra, plitanus, juglans exaltata, fagus fylvatica,ulmus fylvaiica, liquidambar ftyraciflua, whofemighty trunks, feemingly of an equal height, appearedlike fuperb columns. To keep within thebounds of truth and reality, in defcribing the magnitudeand grandeur of thefe trees, would, I fear,fail of credibility; yet, I think I can aflert, thatmany of the black oaks meafured eight, nine, ten,and eleven feet diameter five feel above the ground,as we meafured feveral that were above thir^v feetgirt, and from hence they afcend perfe6lly iiraight,with a gradual taper, forty or ftfty ftet to thelimbs; but below five or fix feet, thefe trunkswould meafure a third more in circumference, onaccount of the projedting jambs, or fupports, whichare more or lefs, according to the number of horizontalroots that they arife from : the tulip tree,liquidambar, and beech, were equally ftately.Not far diftant from the terrace or eminence,overlooking the low grounds of the river, many verymagnificentmonuments of the power and induftry ofthe ancient inhabitants of thefe lands are vifible.obferved a ftupendous conical pyramid, or artificialmount of earth, vaft tetragon terraces, and a largefunken area, of a cubical form, encompalTed withbanks of earth; and certain traces of a larger Indiantown, the work of a powerful nation, whofe periodof grandeur perhaps long preceded the difcovciy ofthiscontinent.I"^ Gigantic black oak. Qiierc. tiiidloria ; the bark of this fpccies of oak:is found to afford a valuable yellow dye. This tree is knowu by ihe nameof black oak in Pennfylvania, Ncw-Jerfey, New-Yoik, and New-England,D .1After

•38 TRAVELS INAfter about feven miles progrefs through thisforeft of gigantic black oaks, we enter on territorieswhich exhibit more varied fcenes : the landrifes almoft infenfibly by gentle afcents, exhibitingdefart plains, high forefts, gravelly and ftonyridges, ever in fight of rapid rivulets ; the foil, asalready defcribed. We then pafled over large richfavannas or natural meadows, wide fpreading canefwamps, and frequently old Indian fettlements,now deferted and overgrown with forefts. Thefeare always on or near the banks of rivers, or greatfwamps, the artificial mounts and terraces elevatingthem above the furrounding groves. I obferved,in the ancient cultivated fields, i. diofpyros,2. gleditfia triacanthos, 3. prunus chicafaw,4. callicarpa, 5. morus rubra, 6. juglans exaltata,7. juglans nigra, which inform us, that thefe treeswere cultivated by the ancients, on account of theirfruit, as being wholefome and nourifliing food.Though thefe are natives of the foreft*, yet theythrive better, and are more fruitful, in cultivatedplantations, and the fruit is in great eftimation withthe prefent generation of Indians, particularly juglansexaltata, commonly called fliell-barked hiccory.The Creeks ftore up the laft in their towns. I havefeen above an hundred bufhels of thefe nuts belongingto one family. They pound them to pieces,and then caft them into boiling water, which, afterpafling through fine ftrainers, preferves the molloi!y part of the hquid : this tliey call by a namewhich fignifies hiccory milkj itjs as fweer and richas frcfli cream, and is an ingredient in moft of theircookery, efpeciaily homony and corn cakes.* The Chicafaw plun 1 think mud be excepted, for though certainly anative .If imerici, yet I .lev r law it wild in the forelh, but always in oldd'.fertfu 111 Jian p. 'n;at'."Ti : 1 fu^p: le it to have been brought from theS.W.t>

;NORTH AMERICA.^^9After four davs moderate and pleafant travelling.\ve ai lived in the evening at the Buffalo Lick.This extraordinarv place occupies ffveral acres ofgrcu^J, at the foot of the S. E. prMTiontory of theGreat Ridge, which, as before obferved, dividesthe rivers Savanna and Alatamaha. A large canefwamp and meadows, forming an iminenfe plain,lie S. E. from k; in this fwamp I believe the headbranches of the o-reat Ogeeche river take their rife.The place called the Lick contains three or fouracres, is nearly level, and lies between the head ofthe cane fv/amp and the afcent of the Ridge. Theearth, from the fuperficies to an unknown depth,is an almoll white or cinereous coloured tenaciousfattiih clay, which all kinds of cattle lick into greatcaves, purfuing the delicious vein. It is the commonopinion cf the inhabitants, that this clay is impregnatedwith faline vapours, arifing from fofTilefalts deep in the earth ; but 1 could difcover nothingfahne in its talle, but I imagined an infipid fweetnefs.Horned cattle, horfes, and deer, are immoderatelyfond of it, infomuch, that their excrement,which almoft totally covers the earth to fome diftanceround this place, appears to be perfeft clay ;which, when dried by the fun and air, is almoft ashard as brickWe were detained at this place one day, in adjuftingand planning the feveral branches of thelurvey. A circumftance occurred during this time,which was a remarkable inftance of Indian fagacity,and had nearly difconcerted all our plans, andput an end to the bufinefs. The furveyor having fixedjiis compafs on the ftaff, and being about to afcertainthe courfe from our place of departure, whichwas to ftrike Savanna river at the confluence of acertain river,about ieventv miles diftance from usD 4jull

40 TRAVELS INjiift as he had determined upon the point, the Indianchief came up, and obferving the courfe he hadfixed upon, fpoke, and faid it was not right; butthat the courfe to the place was fo and fo, holdingup his hand, and pointing. The furveyor replied,that he himfelf was certainly right, adding, thatthat little inftrument (pointing to the compafs) toldhim fo, which, he faid, could not err. The Indiananfwered, he knew better, and that the littlewicked inftrument was a liar ; and he would not acquiefcein its deciiions, fince it would wrong theIndians out of their land. This miftake (the furveyorproving to be in the wrong) difpleafed theIndians; the difpute arofe to that height, that thechief and his party had determined to break up thebufinefs, and return the fhorteft way home, andforbad the furveyors to proceed any farther : however,after fome delay, the complaifance and prudentconduct of the colonel made them change theirrefolution : the chief became reconciled upon conditionthat the compafs fliould be difcarded, andrendered incapable of ferving on this bufmefs ; thatthe chief himfelf fhould lead the furvey; and,moreover, receive an order for a very confiderablequantity of goods.Matters being now amicably fettled, under thisnew regulation, the colonel having detached twocompanies on feparate routes, Mr. M'Intofh andmyfelf attaching ourfelves to the colonel's party,whofe excurfion was likely to be the moll extenfiveand varied, we fat off from the Buffalo Lick, andthe Indian chief, heading the party, condLi6ted uson a flraight line, as appeared by collateral obfervation,to the defired place. We purfueci nearlya north courfe up the Great Ridge, until we camenear the branches of Broad River, when we turnedoff

NORTH AMfLRICA.4Ioff to the right hand, and encamped on a confiderablebranch of it. At this place we continuedalmoft a whole day, conftituting furveyors andaftronomersj who were to take the courfe, diftance,and obfervations on Broad River, and from thencedown to its confluence with the Savanna.The Great Rido-e confifts of a continued hioh.forefl, the foil fertile, and broken into moderatelyelevated hills, by the many rivulets which havetheir fources in it. The heights and precipicesabound in rock and ftone. The foreft trees andother vegetable produ6lions are the fame as alreadymentioned about Little River: I obferved halefia,ftyrax, sefculus pavia, sefc. fylvatica, robiniahifpida, magnolia acuminata, mag. tripetala, andfome very curious new fhrubs and plants, particularlythe phyfic-nut, or Indian olive. The ftemsarife many from a root, two or three feet high;the leaves fit oppofite, on very fhort petioles ; theyare broad, lanceolate, entire and undulated, havingfmooth furfaces of a deep green colour.Fromthe bofom of each leaf is produced a fingle ovaldrupe, {landing ere6l, on Lng flender ftems ; ithas a large kernei, and thin pulp. The fruit isyellow when ripe, and about the fize of an olive.The Indians, when they go in purfuit of deer, carrythis fruit with them, fuppofing that it has thepower of charming or drawing that creature tothem ifrom whence, with the traders, it has obtainedthe name of the phyfic-nut, which meanSjwith them, charming, conjuring, or fafcinating.Malva fcandens, filix fcandens, perhaps a fpeciesof tiichoinanes } the leaves are palmated, or radiatedi it climbs and roves about, on fhrubs, in mpiflground. A very fingular and elegant plant, of anunknown

;42 TRAVELS INunknown family, called Indian lettuce, made itsfirftappearance in thefe rich vales; it is a biennial; theprimary or radical leaves are fomewhat fpatuled,or broad, lanceolate, and obtufe pointed, of a paleyellowifh green, fmooth furface, and of a delicateframe, or texture ; thefe leaves fpread equally onevery fide, almofl reclining on the ground ; fromtheir centre arifes a firaight upright flem, five, fix,or feven feet high, fmooth and polifhed ; the groundof a dark purple colour, Vv'hich is elegantly powderedwith greenifh yellow fpecks ; the ftem, threefourthsof its length, is embellifhed with narrowleaves, nearly of the fame form with the radical ones,placed at regular diftances, in verticilate order. TheSuperior one-fourth divifion of this ftem is formedin a pyramidal fpike of flowers, rather diffufethefe flowers are of the hexandria, large, and expanded; of a dark purple colour, delicately powderedwith green, yellow and red, and dividedinto fix parts, or petals ; thefe are fucceeded by triquetrousdry pericarpi, when ripe.This great ridge isa vaft extended projedion ofthe Cherokee or Alegany mountains, gradually increafingin height and extent, from its extremityat the Lick, to its union with the high ridge ofmountains anciently called the Apalachian mountainsJ it every where approaches much nearer the•waters of the Alatamaha than thofe of the Savanna.At one particular place, where we encamped, onthe Great Ridge, during our repofe there part ofa day, our hunters going out, underfl:anding thattheir route was to the low lands on the Ocone,I accompanied them : we had not rode abovethree miles before we came to the banks of thatbeautiful river. The cane fwamps, of immenfeextent, and the oak forefts, on the level lands,are

NORTH AMERICA.4^are incredibly fertile ; which appears from the tallreeds of the one, and the heavy timber of the other.Before we left the waters of Broad River, havingencamped in the evening on one of its confiderablcbranches, and left my companions, to retire, as ufual,on botanical refearches, on afcending a fteep rockyhill, I accidentally difcovered a new fpecies of caryophyllata(geum odoratilfimum) ; on reaching toa fhrub my foot flipped, and, in recovering myfelf^I tore up fome of the plants, whofe roots filled theair with animating fcents ofcloves and fpicy perfumes.On my return towards camp, I met my philofophiccompanion, Mr. M'Intofh, who was featedon the bank of a rivulet, and whom I found highlyentertained by a very novel and curious natural exhibition,in which I participated with high relifli.The waters at this place were ftill and fhoal, andflowed over a bed of gravel jufl: beneath a rockyrapid : in this eddy flioal were a number of littlegravelly pyramidal hills, whofe fummits rofe almollto the furface of the water, very artfully confl:ru6tedby a fpecies of fmall cray-fifli (cancer macrourus)which inhabited them : here feemed to be theircitadel, or place of retreat for their young againfl:the attacks and ravage^ of their enemy, the goldfifli: thefe, in numerous bands, continually infefl:edthem, except at fhort intervals, when fmall detachmentsof veteran cray-filh fallied out upon them,from their cells within the gravelly pyramids, atwhich time a brilliant fight prefented; the little goldnfliinliiantly fled from every fide, darting throughthe tranfparent waters like fl:reams of lightning ifome even fprang above the furface, into the air,but all quickly returned to the charge, furroundjngthe pyramids as before, on the retreat of theCray-

44 TRAVELS I!Tcray-fiili; in this manner the war feemed to becontinua].The gold-fifh is about the fize of the anchovy,nearly four inches long, of a neat Oender form j thehead is covered with a falade of an ultramarine blue,the back of a reddifh brown, the fides and belly ofaflame, or of the colour of a fine red lead ; a narrowdufky line runs along each fide, from the gillsto the tail Jthe eyes are large, with the iris likeburnifhed gold. This branch of Broad River isabout twelve yards wide, and has two, three, andfour feet depth of water, and winds through a fertilevale, almoft overfliadowed on one fide by aridge of high hills, well timbered with oak, hiccory,liriodendron, magnolia acuminata, pavia fylvatica,and on their rocky fummits, fagus caftanearhododendron ferrugineumi, kalmia latifolia,cornus Florida, &c.One of our Indian young men, this evening,caught a very large falmon trout, weighing aboutfifteen pounds, which he prefented to the colonel,who ordered it to be ferved up for fupper. The Indianftruck this filh, with a reed harpoon, pointedvery fharp, barbed, and hardened by the fire. Thefiflilay clofe under the fteep bank, which the Indiandifcovercd and ftruck with his reed ;inftantly the fifhdarted off' with it, whilft the Indian purfued, withoutcxtrafting the harpoon,, and with repeatedthrufts drowned it, and then dragged it to fhore.After leaving Broad River, the land rifes veryfenfibly, and the country being mountainous, ourprogref-. became daily more difficult and flow ;yetthe varied fcenes of pyramidal hills, high forefts,rich vales, fcrpentine rivers, and cataracts, fullycompenfated

NORTH AMERICA.compenfated for our difficulties and delays. I obfervedthe great aconitum napellus, delpliiniumperegrinum, the carminative angelica lucida*, andcerulean malva.We at length happily acccompliHied our line, arrivingat the little river, where our hunters bringingin plenty of venifon aud turkeys, we had a plentifulfeaft at fupper. Next morning we marked thecorner tree, at the confluence of Little River and theSavanna J and, foon after, the Indians amicablytook leave of us, returning home to their towns.The rocks and folTils, which conflitute the hillsof this middle region, are of various fpecies,as, quartfum, ferrum, cos, filex, glarea, arena,ochra, ftalaftites, fhxum, mica, &c. I faw nofigns of marble, plafter, or lime-ftonej yet thereare, near Augufta, in the forefts, great piles of aporous friable white rock, in large and nearly horizontalmafles, which feems to be an heterogeneousconcrete, confiding of pulverized fea-fhells, witha fmall proportion of fand ; it is foft, and eafilywrought into any form, yet of lufHcient confidencefor conIlru(51:ing any building.As for the animal productions,4^they are the famewhich originally inhabited this part of ^^ orth America,except fuch as have been affrighted away fmcethe invafion of the Europeans. The buffalo (urus)once fo very numerous, is not at this day to be fcen.in this part of the country; there are but fev/ elks, andthofc only in the Apalachian mountains. The dreadedand formidable rattle-fnake is yet too com.nion, anda variety of other ferpents abound, particularly thatadmirable creature, the glafs-fnake : I faw a very"^Called ncnda in Virginia ; by the Creek anl Cherok-e tra.'ers, whiteroot.large

4^TRAVELS INlarge and beautiful one, a little diftancc from otH'camp. Tlie alligamr, a fpecies of crocodile, aboundsin the river and fwamps, near the fea coaft, but isnot to be feen above Augufta. Bears, tygers*,wolves, and wild cats (felis cauda truncata) arenumerous enough : and there is a very great variety*of papilio and phalena, many of which are admirablybeautiful, as well as other infedts of infinitevariety.The furveyors having completed their obferva-we fat off next day on our return to Augufta,tions,taking our route generally through the low landson the banks of the Savanna. We crolTed BroadRiver, at a newly fettled plantation near its confluencewith the Savanna. (3n my arrival at Augufta,finding myfelf a little fatigued, I ftaid there a dayca-or two, and then fat ofi^ again for Savanna,' thepital, where we arrived in good health.Having, in this journey,met with extraordinaryfuccefs, not only in the enjoyment of an uninterruptedftate of good health, and efcaping ill accidents,incider.t to fuch excurfions, through uninhabitedwildernefTes, and an Inrian frontier, but alfoin making a very extenfive collection of new difcoveriesof natural produftions ^ on the recolledlionof fo many and great favours and bieffings, I now,with a high fenfe of gratitude, prefume to offer upmy fincere thanks to the Almighty, the Creator andPreferver.* This creature is called, in Pennfylvania and the northern States, panther ;but in Carolina and the fouthiern States, is called tygef ; it is very ftrong,much larger than any doj:, ot" a ycUowifh brown, or clay colour, having avery long tail : it is a mifchievous animal, and preys on calves, youngCultt, SiQ,CHAP,

NORTH AMERICA. .4^CHAP. V.Having completed my Hortiis Siccus, and madeup my colle6lions of feeds and growing roots, thefruits of my late weftern tour, and fent them toCharlefton, to be forwarded to Europe, I fpent theremaining part ot this feafon in botanical excurfionsto the low countries, between Carolina and EaftFlorida, and colle6led feeds, roots and fpecimens,making drawings of fuch curious fubjefts as couldnot be preferved in their native ftate of excellence.During this recefs from the high road of my travels,having obtained the ufe of a ne>:c light cyprefscanoe, at Broughton Ifland, a plantation, the propertyof the Hon. Plenry Laurens, efq. I ftoredmyfelf wirh necefiaries for the voyage, and refolvedupon a trip up the Alatamaha.I afcended this beautiful river, on v/hofe fruitfulbanks the generous and truefons of liberty fe^curely dwell, fifty miles above die white fettle-^ments.How gently flow thy peaceful floods, O Alatamaha! How fublimely rife to viev/, on thy elevatedfhores, yon magnolian groves, from w^hofe topsthe furrounding expanfe is perfumed, by clouds ofincenfe, blended with the exhaling balm of the liquidambar,and odours continually arifing fromcircumambient aromatic groves of illicium, myrica,laurus and bignonia.When wearied with working my canoe, againfl:the impetuous current (which becomes ftronger byJreafon

4^ Travels mreafon of the mighty floods of the river, with

JiOR'TH America. 49The glorious fovereign of day, clothed in lightrefulgent, rolling on his gilded chariot, haftened torevifit the weftern realms. Grey penfive eve nowadinonirncd us of gloomy night's hafty approach : 1\vas roufed by care to feek a place of fecure repofe,ere darknefs came on^Drawino; near the hWh fhores, I afcended theileep banks, where flood a venerable oak. An ancientIndian field, verdured over with fucculentgrafs, and chequered with coppices of fragrantIhrubs, offered to my view the Myrica cerifera,Magnolia glauca, Laurus benzoin, Laur. Boibonia,Rhamnus frangula, Pruniis Chicafaw, Prun. laurocerafus,and others. It was nearly encirckd withan open forefl of flately pines (Pinus paluflris)through which appeared the extenfive favanna, thefecure range of the fwift roebuck. In front of mylanding, and due caft, I had a fine profpeft of theriver and low lands on each fide, which gradually"ividened to the fea-coaft, and gave me an unconfinedprofped:, whilft the far diftant fea-coaft iflandsjlike a coronet, limited the hoary horizon.My barque being fecurely moored, and havingreconnoitred the furrounding groves, and colle6ledfire-wood> I fpread my (kins and blanket by mycheerful fire, under the protedling fhade of the hofpitableLive Oak, and reclined my head on my hardbut healthy couch. I liftened, undiflurbed, to thedivine hymns of the feathered fongfters of thegroves, whilfl the foftly whifpering breezes faintlydied away.The fun now below the weflern horizon, tliemoon majeftically rifing in the eafl; again the tunefulbirds became infpircd : how melodious is thefoeial mock-bird !the groves refound the unceafingEcries

5

;NORTH AMERICA.5 Iplanned for our ccndu61:, as a ladder whereby tomount to the fummit of tenedriai f-dory and hnppinefs,and from whence we perhaps meditated ourfiight to heaven itfelf at t^ .e very moment when wevainly imagine ourfelves to have attained its pointyfome unforefeen accident intervenes, and furprifesusi the chain is violently fhaken, we quit our holdand fail : the well-contrived fyitem at once becomesa chaos; every idea of happinefs recedes; the fplendourof glory darkens, and at length totally diiappears; every pleafing objeft is defaced, all is deranged,and the flattering fcene paiTes quite awaya gloomy cloud pervades the underllanding, andwhen we fee our progrcfs retarded, and our beftintentions fruftrated, we are apt to deviate from theadmonitions and convidtions of virtue, to fhut oureyes upon our guide and protestor, doubt of hispower, and defpair of his alTiftance. But let us waitand rely on our God, who in due time will fliineforth in brightnefs, dilTipate the envious cloud, andreveal to us how finite and circumfcribed is humaiipower, whenaHliming to itfelf independent wifdom.But, before I leave the river Alatamiahaj wewill proceed to give a farther and more particularaccount of it. It has its fource in the Cherokeemountains near the head of Tugilo, the greatweft branch of Savanna, andj before it leavesthem, is joined and augmented by innumerablerivulets j thence it defcends through the hillycountry, with all its collateral branches, and windsrapidly amongft the hills two hundred and fiftymiles, and then enters the flat plain country, bythe name of the Oakmulge ; thence meandering anhundred and fifty miles, it is joined on the caft fideby the Ocone, which likewife heads in the lowerridges of ihe mountains. After this confluence,E ahaving

NORTH AMERICA..5^through ancient Indian fields, which are called theOakmulge fields : they are the rich low lands of theriver. On the heights of thefe low grounds are yetvifible monuments, or traces, of an ancient town,fuch as artificial mounts or terraces, fquares andbanks, encircling confiderable areas. Their oldfields and planting land extend up and down theriver,fifteen or twenty miles from this fite.If we are to s;ive credit to the account theCreeks give of themfelves, this place is remarkablefor being the firfl: tov/n or fettlement, when they fatdown (as they term it) or ePcabliihed themfelves,after their emigration from the v/eft, beyond theMifTifippi, their original native country. On thislong journey they fufi^ered great and innumerabledifficulties, encountering and vanquilhing numerousand valiant tribes of Indians, who oppofed and retardedtheir march. Having crofled the river, flillpufliing eaftward, they were obliged to make aftand, and fortify themfelves in this place, as theironly remaining hope, being to the lad degree perfecutedand v/eakened by their furrounding toes.Having formed for themfelves this retreat, anddriven off" the inhabitants by degrees, they recoveredtheir fpirits, and agaia faced their enemies,when they came ofFvi6lorious in a memorable anddecifive battle. They afterwards gradually fubduedtheir furrounding enemies, fiirengthening themfelyesby taking into confederacy the vanquiflied tribes.And they fay, alfo, that about this period theEnglifli were eilabliihing the colony of Carolina;and the Creeks, underllanding that they were apowerful, warlike people, fent depudes to Charlef-'ton, their capital, offering them their friendfliip andalliance, which was accepted, and, in confequenceE Jthereof^

•Englilh54 TRAVELS mthereof, a treaty took place between them, whichhas remained inviolable to this day. They neverceafed war againft the numerous and potent bandsof Indians, who then flirrounded and cramped theplantations, as the Savannas, Ogeeches,Wapoos, Santees, Yamafees, Utinas, Icofans, Paficas,and others, nntil they had extirpated them.T he Yamafees and their adherents Ihieltering themfelvesunder the power and protection of the Spaniardsof Ead Florida, they purfued them to thevery gates of St. Auguftine j and the Spaniards refufingto deliver them up, thefe faithful intrepid allieshad the courage to declare war againft them,and inceifantly perfecuted them, until they entirelybroke up and ruined their fettlements, driving thembefore them, till at length they were oblii.ed to retirewithin the walls of St. Auguftine and a few inferiorfortified pofts on the fea coaft.After a few days I returned to Broughton ifland.The Cherokees and their confederates being yet difcontented,and on bad terms with the white people,it was unfafe to purfue my travels in the north wefternregions of Carohna. And recollefting manyfubjefls of natural hiftory, which I had obferved inthe fouth of the ifthmus of Florida, when on a journeyfome years ago with my father, John Bartram,that were interefting, and not taken notice of byany traveller; and as it was then in the autumn andwinter, having reafon to think that very many curiousfubjefts had efcaped our refcarches ; 1 nowformed the rcfolution of travelling into Eaft Florida;accordingly, I immediately wrote to dodlor Fothe-gill,in order that he might know where to dircdto me.PART

WOUTH AMERfCA. 55PART ILCHAP. I.We are, all of us, fubjeft to croflcs and difap-^ointments, but more efpecially the traveller j andwhen they furprife us, we fr^^quently become reftleCiand impatient under diem : but let us rely onProvidence, and by ftudying and contemplating theworks and power of the Creator, learn wifdom andiinderftanding in the economy of nature, and beferioufly attentive to the divine monitor within. Letus be obedient to the ruling powers in fuch thingsas regard human affairs, our duties to each other,and all creatures and concerns that are fubmitted toour care and controul.In the month of March, 1774, I fat off from Savanna,for Florida, proceeding by land to the Alatamaha,where I diverted my time agreeably inIhort excurfions, picking up curiofities, until thearrival of a fmall velTel at Frederica, from Savanna,which was deftined to an Indian trading houfe highup St. John's, in Eaft Florida. Upon informationof this veflel's arrival, I immediately took boat rnddefcended the Alatamaha, calling by the way o;'Broughton ifland, where I was kindly received byMr. James Bailey, Mr. Laurens's agent. LeavingBroughton ifland in the evening, 1 continued defcendingthe fouth channel nine or ten miles, when,after crofling the found, I arrived at Frederica, onthe ifland of St. Simon, where I was well received^nd entertained by James Spalding, efq. This gen-E 4tleman

56 TRAVELS INtleman carrying on a very confiderable trade, andhaving extenfive connexions with the Indian tribesof Eaft Florida, gave me letters to his agents readingat his trading houfes, ordering them to furnifhme with horfesj guides, and every other convenientaHiftance.Before the vefiel was ready to fail again for St.John's, I had time to explore the ifland. In thecool of the morning early, I rode out of the town,diiecfting my courfe to the fouth end of the ifland.After penetraring a thick grove of oaks, which almoftfurrounded the town on the land-fide, fuddenlya very extenfive and beaudful green favann^opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and inbreadth near a mile, well flocked with horned cattle,horfes, fht^ep, and deer. Following an oldhighway, now out of repair, acrofs the Savanna,I afcen led the floping green bank, and entered anoble foreft of lofty pines, and then a venerablegrove of Live Oaks, under whofe fhady fpreadingboughs opened a fpacious avenue, leading to theformer feat of general Oglethorpe, but now theproperty of capr. Raimcnd Demere. After leavingthis town, I was led into a high pine forefl^the trees were tall, and generally of the fpeciescalled Broom-pine (P. palullris Linn.) the furfaceof the ground covered with grafs, herbage, andfome flirubbery : I continued through this foreftnearly in a direft line towards the fea coafl, five orfix miles, when the land became uneven, witli^ridges of land-hills, mixed with fea-fhells, and coveredby almoft imipenetrable thickets, confillingof Live Oaks, Sweet-bay (L. Borbonia), Myrica,Ilex aquifolium, Rhamnus frangula,CaiTine, Sideroxylon,Ptelca, Halefia, Callicarpa, Carpinus, entangledwith Smilax pfeudo-china, and otherfpecies^

NORTH AMERICA.fpecies, Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigeni, Khamnusvolubilis, &e. This dark labyrinth is fucceedeciby a great extent of fait plains, beyond which theboundlefs ocean is feen. Betwixt the dark foreftand the fait plains, I crofTed a rivulet of frefj-i water,where I fat down a while to reft myfelf, underthe ihadow of fA^eet Bays and Oaks ; the livelybreezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath ofthe fuperb Crinum, called by the inhabirants, WhiteLily. This admirable beauty of the fea-coailiflandsdv/eljs in the humid fliady groves, where thefoil is made fertile and mellov/ by the admixture offea (hells. The delicate ftru6lure of its fpadix, itsgreen broad leaves, and the texture and whitenei^of its flowers, at once charmed me. The Euphorbiapi6la. Salvia coccinea, and Ipomea ere6la,were alfo feated in front of my refting place, aswell as the Lycium falfum (perhaps L. Afrum Linn.)^ very beautiful ever-green flirub, its ceruleanflowers, and coral red berries, always on itsbranches, forming not the leaft of its beauties.Time now admonilliing me to rifeand be going,I, with reluftance, broke away from this afTemblypf maritime beauties.Continuing on, fouthward, the fait plains on myleft hand infenfibly became narrower, and I a«length reached the ftrand, which was level, firm,and paved with fiiells, and afforded me a grandview of the boundlefs ocean.l^Jhow infinitethou Creator fupreme, almighty Iand incomprchenfible thy works ! moft perfed:, andevery way aftonifliing !1 continued nearly a mile along this firm fandyJ)each, the waves of the fea fometimes wafliing my^horfc's

5^ TRAVELS INhorfe's feet. I obferved a great variety of rhelUfifh, as Hchinitis, Corallinus, Patella, Medufa,Buccina, Concha venerea, Auris marina, Cancer^Squilla, &c. fome alive, and others dead, havingbeen cafi upon the beach by the feas, in tinnes oftempeft, where they became a prey to fea-fowl,and other maritime animals, or periflied by the heatof the fun';and burning lands. At length I doubledthe utmoft Ibuth point of St, Simon's, which formsthe north cape of the fouth channel of the greatliver Alatamaha. The found, juft within this cape,forms an excellent bay, or cove, on the fouth end

NORTH AMERICA,requefled me to ftay and dine widi him ; and onmy pleading, for excufe, the neceflicy of my beingat Frederica, " Yet, I pray you, ftay a little, I willloon have Tome refrcfhment for you. " Prefendywas laid before us a plentiful repaft of venifon, &:c. jour drink being honey and water, (Irengthened bythe addition of brandy. Our rural table was fpreadunder the Ihadow of Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays,fanned by the lively falubrious breezes wafted fromthe fpicy groves. Our mufic was the refponfivelove-lays of the painted nonpareil, and the alertand gay mock-bird j whilft the brilliant hummingbirddarted through the flowery groves, fufpendedin air, and drank ne6lar from the flowers of theyellow Jafmine, Lonicera, Andromeda, and fweetAzalea.But yet, how awfully great and fublime is themajefl:ic fcene eafliward ! the folemn found of thebearing furf fl:rikes our ears ; the dafliing of yonliquid mountains, like mighty giants, in vain afTailthe fkies ; they are beaten back, and fall proflii-at^upon the Ihores of the trembling ifland.Taking leave of my fylvan friend, I fat off onmy return to the town, where I arrived beforenight, having obferved, on the way, many curiousvegetable productions, particularly Corypha Palma(or great Cabbage Palm) Corypha pumila, Corypharepens, frondibus expanfis, flabelliformibus, plicatis,fl:ipit. fpinofis (Dwarf Saw Palmetto) Coryphaobliqua, caucjice arboreo adfcendente, frondibusexpanfis, flabelliformibus, plicads, ftipit. ferratis,^^fCyrilla, Tillandfia monoftachya. Till, lingulata, orWild Pine; both thefe curious vegetables are parafites,living on the fubflance of others, particularlyon the limbs of the Live Oak j the latter fpecies

;60 TRAVELS INcies is a very large flourifliing plant, greatly refembiing,at fome diftance, a well grown plant ofthe Bromeiia Ananas : the large deep green leavesare placed in an imbricated order, and afcendantbut their extremities are reflex, their bafes gibbousjind hollowed, like «i ladle, and capable of containingnear a pint of water: heavy tempefls of"wind and rain tear thefe plants from the trees ; yetthey live and flourifli on the earth, under the fhadowof thefe great Live Oaks. A very large partof this ifiand had formerly been cleared and plantedby the Englifh, as appeared evidently to me, byveftlges of plantations, ruins of coftiy buildings,highways, &c. but it is now overgrown with fore lis.Frederica was the firft town built by the Englifh inGeorgia, and was founded by general Oglethorpe,who began and eftablifhed the colony. The fortrefswas regular and beautiful, conftrufted chieflywith brick, and was the largeft, mofl: regular, andperhaps moft coftiy, of any in North America, ofBritifh conftruftion : it is now in ruins, yet occupiedby a fmall garrifon ; the ruins alfo of thetown only remain; peach trees, figs, pomegranates,and other Ihrubs, grow- out of the ruinouswalls of former fpacious and expenfive buildings,not only in the town, but at a diftance in variousparts £>f the illand ;yet there are a few neat houfesin good repair, and inhabited : it feems now recoveringagain, owing to the public and liberal fpiritand exertions of J. Spalding, efq. who is prefidentof the ifland, and engaged in very extenfive merpantileconcerns.C H A P,

KORTir AMERICA. ^fCHAP.II.The vefTel in which I was to embark for EadFlorida, being now ready to pirrfue her voyage, wcfat iliil with a fair wind and tide. Our courfe wasfoiith, through the found, betwixt a chain of feacoafl-iflands,and the main. In the evening wecame to, at the fouth end of St. Simon's, havingbeen hindered by the flood tide making againft us.The captain and myfelf, with one of our crew, wentonfliore, with a view of getting fom^e venifon andfea fov/1. We liad not the good fortune to fee anydeer, yet we were not akogether unfuccefsful, hav-(Urfus cauda elon-ing taken three young racoonsgata) vv^hich are excelknt meat : we had them forilipper, ferved up in a pillo. Next morning early,we again got undci- way, running by Jekyl andCumberland Iflands, large, beautiful, and fertile, yecthinly inhabited, and confequently excellent hauntsfor deer, bears, and other game.As we ran by Cumberland IQe, keeping the channelthrough the found, we faw a fail a head cominglip towards us. Our captain knew it to be thetrading fchooner from the ftores on St. John's, andimmediately predicted bad news, as flie was not tofail until our arrival there. As fhe approached us,his apprchenfions were more aiid more confirmed,from the appearance of a number of paffengers ondeck. We laid to, until flie came up, when wehailed her, " What nev/s ? " " Bad j the Indianahave plundered the upper ilore, and the traders haveefcaped only with their lives. " Upon this bothTefTels ca-me to anchor very near each other,wheti,learnina.

$2 TnAVELS INlearning the particulars, it appeared, that a largeparty of Indians had furprifed and plundered twotrading houfes, in the ifthmus, beyond the river St-.John's; and a third being timely apprifed of their hoftileintendonsj by a faithful runner, had time to carryoff part of the effeds, which they fecreted in a fwamp.at fome diflance from it, covering them with fkins.The upper ftore had faved their goods in like manner;and the lower ftore, to which we were bound,had removed the chief of theirs, and depofited themOn a fmall ifland, in the river, about five miles belowthe ftore. With thcfe effefts was my che'ft, whichI had forwarded in this veffel, from Savanna, notbeing at that time determined whether to makethis journey by land or water. The captain of ourVeflel refolved to put about and return to Frederica,for frefti inftrudlions how to proceed ; but formy part, I was determined to proceed for the iflandlip St.John*s, where my cheft was lodged, there beingfome valuable books and papers in it, which Icould not do well without. I accordingly defiredour caotain to put me on ftiore, on I>ittle St Simon's,which was not far diftant, intending to walka few miles ro a fort, at the fouth end of that ifland,-where fome finiernien refided, who, as I expededjwould fet me over on Amelia Ifland, where^as a large plantation, the property of 1 ord Egmont,a Britifli Nobleman, whole agent, while I^vas at Frederica, gave me an invitation to call onhim, as I pafiTed toward Eaft Florida ; and here Ihad expedatloiis of getting a boat to carry me toSt. John's. Agreeably to my defire, the captainput me on fliore, with a young man, a paflenger,for Faft Florida, who promifed to continue with me,and fliare my adventures. We landed fafelyj the capt:unwifliing us a profperous journey, returned onboard

IbuthNORTH AMERICA.(J/board his vefTel_, and we proceeded for the fort, encounteringfome harfh treatment from tliorny tliickets,and prickly vines. However we reached thefort in the evening. The commander was oOt in theforeft, hunting. My companion being tired, or indolent,betook himlelf to reft, while I made a tourround the , point of the iiland, walking dieflielly paved fea beach, and picking, up neveltiesv Ihad not gone above a mile, before I came up to aroebuck, lying ilain on the fands ; and hearing thereport of a gun, not far off, and liippofing it to befrom the captain of the fort, whom I expelled foor>to return to take up his game, I retired to a littlediftance, mounted the fand hills, and £at down, enjoyinga 5ne profpedl of the rolling billows andfoaming breakers, beating on the bar, and north,promontory of Amelia Ifle, oppofite to me. Thecaptain of the fort foon came up, with a Ilain buck,on his fhoulders. We hailed each other, and returnedtogether to the fort, where we were welltreated, and next morning, at my requeft, thecaptain obligingly fat us over, landing us fafely onAmelia. After walking through a fpacious forefbof Live Oaks and Palms, and crofTing a creek thatran through a narrow fait marfn, I and my fellowtraveller arrived fafe at the plantation, where theagent, Mr. Egan, received us very politely and hofpitably.This gentleman is a very intelligent andable planter, having already greatly improved theeftate, particularly in the cultivation of indio-o.Great part of this ifland confiils of excellent hornmockyland, which is the foil this plant delightsin, as well as cotton, corn, batatas, and almoftevery other efculent vegetable. Mr. Egan politelyrode with me over great part of the idand. OnJigmoiit

^4- TRAVELS mEgmont eftate are feveral very large Indian titmuli,which are called Ogeeche mounts, fo namedfrom that nation of Indians, who took fhelter here>after being driven from their native fettlcments orlthe main near Ogeeche river. Here they were conftantlyharafied by the Carolinians and Creeks, andat length flain by their conquerors, and their bonesentombed in thefe heaps of earth and fhells. I obfervedhere the ravages of the common grey caterpillar(Phalena periodica), fo dellruftive to forefland fruit trees, in Pennfylvania, and through thenorthern Hates, by ftripping them of their leaves, inthe fpring,while young and tender.Mr. Egan having bufinefs of importance to tranfa6lin St. Auguftine, prefTed me to continue withhim a few days, when he would accompany me tothat place, and, if I chofe, I fhould have a palfage,as far as the Cow- ford, on St. John's, where he wouldprocure me a boat to profecute my voyage.It may befubjefl: worthy of fome inquiry, whythofe fine " ndis, on the coaft of Georgia, are {othinly inhal ited ; though perhaps Amelia may infome degree plead an exemption, as it is a very fertileifland, on the north border of Eaft Florida, andat the capes of St. Mary, the fineft harbour in thisnew colony. If I fliould give my opinion, the followingfeem to be tiie moft probable reafons : the;greateft part of thefe are as yet the property of afew wealthy planters, who having their refidence"on the continent, where lands on the large rivers^as Savanna, Ogeeche, Alatamaha, St. Ille, and others,are of a nature and quality adapted to the growthof rice, which the planters chiefly rely upon for'obtaining ready cafli, and purchasing family articlesi they fettle a few poor families on their infular

MORTH AMERICA. 65ililar eflates, who rear Hocks of horned cattle,horfes, fwine, and poultry, and proted: the game fortheir proprietors. The inhabitants of thefe iflandsalfo lie open to the invafion and ravages of pirates,and, in cafe of a war, to inciirfions from their enemiesarmed veffels j in which cafe they mud eitherremove with their families and effedls to the main,or be ftripped of all their moveables, and theirhoufcs laid in rilins.The foil of thefe iflands appears to be particularlyfavourable to the culture of indigo and cotton,and there are on them fome few large plantationsfor the cultivation and manufadure of thofe valuablearticles. The cotton is planted only by thepoorer clafs of people, juft enough for their familyconfumption ; they plant two fpecies of it, the annualand Weft Indian ; the former is low, andplanted every year ; the balls of this are verylarge, and the phlox long, ftrong, and perfedlywhite ; the Weil Indian, is a tall perennial plant,the ftalk fomewhat fhrubby, feveral of which rifeup from the root for feveral years fuccefiively, theftems of the former year being killed by the winterfrofts. The balls of this latter fpecies are not quitefo large as thofe of the herbaceous cotton ; but thephlox, or wool, is long, extremely fine, filky, andwhite. A plantation of this kind will laft feveralyears, with moderate labour and care, whereas theannual fort is planted every year*The coafts, founds, and inlets, environing thefeiflands, abound with a variety of excellent fifh,particularly Rock, Bafs, Drum, Mullet, Sheepshead.Whiting, Grooper, Flounder, Sea Trour,[this laft feems to be a fpecies of Cod] Skate, Skipjack,Stingray.The Shark, and great black Scing-Flay

66 TRAVELS mray, are infatiable cannibals, and very troublefbmcto the fifliermen. The bays and lagoons are ftoredwith oyfiersj ajid a variety of other fhell-fifh, crabs,,ihrimp, &c. The clam?, irr particular, are large,their meat white, tender and delicate-There is a large fpace betwixt this chain of feaeoaft-iflandsand the main land,., perhaps generallynear three leagues in breadth; but all this fpace is.not covered with water : 1 eftimate nearly twothirdsof it to confift of low fait plains^ which produceBarilla, Sedge, Rufhes,. &c. and which borderon the main land, and the weftern Goalts of the iflands..The eatt fides of thefe iflands are> for the mofb part,,clean, hard, fandy beaches, expofed to the wafli ofthe ocean. Between thefe iflands are the mouthsor entrance of fome rivers, which run down fromthe continent winding about through thefelow faitmarflies, and delivering their waters into the founds,which are very extenfive capacious harbours, fromthree to five and fix to eight miles over, and communicatewith each other by parallel fait rivers, orpafies, that flow into the found : they afibrd an extenfiveand fecure inland navigation for mofl: craft,fuch as large fchooners, floops, pettiaugers, boats,and canoes ; and this inland communication of waterstxicnds along the fea coaft with but few andihort interruptions, from the bay of Chefapeak, inVirginia, to the Mifllfippi, and how much farther IJcnow nor, perhaps as far as Vera Cruz. Whetherthis chain oi fea-coait-iflands is a fiep, or advance,,which this pare of our continent is now making ontlie Atlantic ocean, we muft leave to future ages tadetermine. But ii feems evident, even to demonilration,that thofe fait madhes adjoining the coaftof tile main, and the reedy and grafly iflands andnjarfliei-

NORTH AMERICA.^7marfhes in the rivers,which are now overflowed atevery tide, were formerly high fwamps of firm land,affording forefts of Cyprefs, Tupilo, Magnolia grandiflora.Oak, Afh, Sweet Bay, and other timbertrees, the fame as are now growing on the riverfwamps, whofe fiirface is two feet or more abovethe fpring tides that flow at this day; and it isplainly to be feen by every planter along the coaftof Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, to the Miffifippi,when they bank in thefe graffy tide marllies forcultivation,that they cannot fink their drains abovethree or four feet below the furface, before theytome to ftrata of Cyprefs flumps and other trees, astlofe together as they now grow in the fwamps.CHAP.

6StRivELS INCHAP.III.Being now in readinefs to profecute our voyageto St. John's, we fat fail in a handfonne pleafureboat,manned with four flout negro flaves, to rowin cafe of neceflity. After paffing Amelia Narrowswe had a pleafant run acrofs fort George^sfound, where, obfcrving the pelicans fifhing, Mr.Egan fliot one of them, which he took into theboat. T was greatly furprifed on obferving thepouch or fack, which hangs under the bill : it iscapable of being expanded to a prodigious fize.One of the people on board, faid, that he had iccnmore than half a bufhel of bran crammed into oneof their pouches. The body is larger than that ofa tame goofe, the legs extremely fnort, the feetwebbed, the bill of a great length, bent inwardslike a fcythe, the wings extend near feven feet fromtip to tip, the tail is very fliort, the head, neck, and,bread, nearly whi:e, the body of a light bluifli grey,except the quill feathers of the wings, which areblack. They feem to be of the gull kind, both inform and ftrudlure, as well as manner of fifiiing.The evening following we landed on the main.It was a promontory of high landj covered withorange-trees, and projefting into the found, formiinga convenient port. VVe pitched our tent under thefhelter of a foreil of Live Oak^, Palms, and SweetE::y^ ; and having, i:i the C(Aiile of the day, procured])If nty of iea lov. 1, luch as curlews, wilkts, fnipes,lind birds, a i.1 odicrs, we had them drelled forflipper, una feafoned with excellent cyflers, whiciilay in he-pG in the vvai^r,Ciofc to our Janding-place.'Ihe

. to;NORTH AMERICA. .69The fhrub Capficum growing here in abundance, affordedus a very good pepper : we drank of a wellof frefh water juft at hand, anildft a grove of Myrtles(Myrica cerifera.) Our repofe however wasincomplete, from the ftings of mufquetoes, the roaringof crocodiles, and the continual noife and reftleflhefsof tlie fea fowl, thoufands of them havingtheir rooiling places very near us, particularly loonsof various fpecies, herons, pelicans, Spanifh curlews,&c. all promifcuoufly lodging together, and in fuchincredible numbers, that the trees were entirely covered.They rooft in inacceffible iflets in the faitmarfhes, furrounded by lagoons, and fliallow water.Juft without the trees, betwixt them, the water andmarlhes, is a barricade of Palmetto royal (Yuccagloriofa) or Adam's needle, which grows fo thicktogether, that a rat or bird can fcarcely pafs through-them ; and the ftiff leaves of this fword plant, ftandingnearly horizontally, are as impenetrable to man,•or any other animal, as if they were a regiment ofgrenadiers with their bayonets pointed at you. T'^ePalmetto royal is, however, a very fingular and beautifulprodu(51:ion. It may be termed a tree, fromits durabihty and magnitude, as likewife from theligneous quality of its ftem, or trunk, when oldyet from its form and texture, I fhould be inclinedrank it amongft the herbaceous plants, for evenxhe glorious Palm, although it rifes to the altitudeof a tree, and even tranfcends moft of them, yetit bears the chara6ters of the herbaceous ones: andthis, like the Palm tree, riles with a ftraight, ere(5tftem, about ten or twelve feet high, crowned witha beautiful chaplet of fword or dagger-like leaves,of a perfect green colour, each terminated with aflifF, fharp fpur, and their edges finely crenated.This thorny crown is crefted with a pyramid of fil-F 3ver

70 TRAVELS INver white flowers, each refembling a tulip or lily,Thefe flowers are fucceeded by a large fruit, nearlyof the form and fize of a flender cucumber, which,when ripe, is of a deep purple colour, the fkinfmooth and fhining, its pulp fofc, very juicy, andof an agreeable aromatic flavour, but rather bitterto the tafte ; it is, however, frequently eaten, butif eaten to cxcefs, proves violently purgative. Thefeeds are numerous, flat, and lunated.The plant, or tree, when grown old, fometlmesdivides .into two or three fl:ems, which feem ofequal height and thicknefs, and indeed nearly of thefame thicknefs with the main fliem ; but generally,when they arrive to this age and magnitude, theirown weit-hc brings them to the ground, where theyfoon decay, the heart or pith firfl:, leaving a hollowfibrous reticulated trunk or fl^eve, which like-Vv'iie foon after decays, and, in fine, all is again reducedto its original earth, and replaces the vegetativemould. But the deceafed are foon replacedby others, as there are younger ones of all ages andftature, ready to fucceed their predeceffors, andflourifn for a time, with the fame regal pomp andfplendor. Thefr plants are lb multitudinous, whereeverthey get a footing, that the earth is completelyoccupied by them, and fcarccly any other vegetableis to be feen, where they are ; yet they arefometimes fcattered amongft other trees and vegetables.In three days after leaving Amelia, we arrivedat the Cow-ford, a public ferry, over St. John's,about thirry miics above the bar or capes, the riverhere being above a mile wide.Mr. Egan, after procuring a neat little fail-boatfor.

•NORTH AMERICA. "] i>fivemiles over land.far me, at a large indigo plantation near the fcny,and for which I paid three guineas, departed for St.Auguiline, which is on the fca-coaft, about forty-It was now about the middle of April. Vegetationappearing every where in high progrefs, I wasanxious to be advancing fouthcriy ; and having attliis plantation ftored myfelf with necefTaries formy voyage^ I failed in the morning with a fairAvind. I was now again alone^ for the young man,my fellow traveller, though ftou.ter and heartierchan myfelf, haying repented oi his promife to ac-.company me to the Indian trading hcufes, I fjppofenot relilLing the hardihips and dangers, whichmight perhaps befal us, chofe rather to Hay behind,amongft the fettlements. His leaving me, however,I did not greatly regret, as I could not confider it:a difappointment much to niy difadvantage at themoment. Our views were probably totally oppofite; hej a young mechanic on his adventures, Teemedto be actuated by no other motives, than either to.eftablifh himfelf in fome w^ll-inhabited part of the:C0untry, where, by following his occupation^ hemight be enabled to procure, without much toil and.^danger, the necefTaries and conveniences of life ^or by iaduftry and frugality, perhaps eftablilli hisfortune. Whilil I, continually impelled by a reftlefsfpirit of euriofity, in purfuit of new productionsof nature, my chief happinefs confiiled in tracingand admiring the infinite power, majefty, andperfcdion of the great Almighty Creator, and in,the contemplation, that through divine aid and per-^niffion^ I might be inilrumental in difcovering, andintroducing into my native country, fome originalprodudions of nature, which might become ufefulF 4to

72 TRAVELS INto foclety.Each of our purfuits was perhaps equallylaudable j and, upon this fuppofition, I was quitewilling to part with him upon amicable terms.My little veflel being furnifhed with a good fail,and having filliing tackle, a neat light fufee, powderand ball, I found myfelf well equipped for myvoyage, about one hundred miles to the tradinghoufe.I crofled the river to a high promontory ofwood-land, on the weft fhore, and being ftruck withthe magnificence of a venerable grove of Live Oak,Palms, and Laurel (Magnolia grandiflora) I fteppedon fhore to take a view of the place. Orange treeswere in full bloom, and filled the air with fragrance.eightIt was now paft noon, and this place being aboutmiles above the Cow-ford, and the river nearthree miles in breadth, I wanted to reach a plantationin fight on the oppofite fhore, in order to getfbme repairs, my vellel having fuftained fome damagefrom the violence of the wind, in crofTingover. I arrived late in the evening, and finding aconvenient landing-place and harbour, I concludedto remain here till morning, and then coaft it clofealong fliore to the plantation.It beginning to thunder, I was fufliciently warnedto prepare againft a wet night; and obfervinga very large Oak tree, which had been throwndown by a hurricane, and offered me a convenientJlieltcr, as its enormous limbs bore up the trunka fufficient height from the earth to admit me tofit or lie down under it, 1 fpread my fail, flantingfrom tlie trunk of the tree to the ground, on thewindward

NORTH AMERICA.windward fide; and having collected a quantity ofwood, fufficient to keep up a fire during the night,I ftruck one up in front, and fpreading fkins onthe sround, and upon thefe placing a blanket, onehalf I lay down upon, turning the other over m?for a covering.The ftorm came up, with a furious wind andtremendous thunder and lightning, from the oppofiteN. W. coaft, but luckily for me, little rainfell, and I refted very well. But as the wind nextmorning blew very frefli, right in upon the fhore,there was no poflibility of moving, with fafety,from my prefent fituation. I however arofe toreconnoitre the ground round about my habitation,being roufed by the report of a mu{l

;74 \ TRAVELS rrvrthe pcint, to the landing. I thanked hinn for hiscivHity, and not willing to be troublefome, I told^im I would leave my boat, and follow after himfo taking my fufee on my flioulder, after draggingmy bark as high up on fiiore as I could, I followedthe Indian, and foon reached the houfe.The gentleman received me in the mofl politemanner Jarrd, after hearing my fituation, he requeftedme to make my abod-e with him a few days,to reil and refrefh myfelf. I thanked him, andtold him I v,/ouid ftay a day. He immediately fentflaves who brought my boat round j and havingcarpenters ar work on a new building, he fat themabout repairing my veifel, which by night was completelyrefitted.I fpent the day in the mod agreeable manner,m the fociety of this man of fingular worth. Heled me over his extenfive improvements, and wereturned in company with feveral of his neighbours.In the afternoon, the moft fultry tiaie of the day,wc retired to the fragrant (hades of an orangegrove. The houfe was fituated on an eminence,about one hundred and fifty yards from the river.On the right hand was the orangery, confifting ofmany hundred trees, natives of the place, and leftftanding, when the ground about it was cleared.Thefe trees were large, flour illiing, and in perfe6tbloom, and loaded widi their ripe golden fruit.On the other fide was a fpacious garden, occupyinga regular flope of ground down to the water j^nd a pleafant lawn lay between. Here werel

NORTH AMERICA. 75Corn (Zea) and Potatoes (Convolv. Bat.ita) we-egreatly advanced in growth, and promifcd a plentifulcrop. The Indigo made in Ead Florida isefteemed almoft equal lo the beft Spaniih,efpeciallythat fort which they call Flora. Mr. Marfhallprefented me with a Ipccirnen of his own manufacture,at this plantation : it was very little, ifany, inferior to die beft PruPfian blue.In the morning following, intimating my intentionsof proceeding on my voyage, Mr. Marfliallagain importuned me ro ftayi but I obtained hisconfent to depart, on my promifmg to vifit himat my return to Georgia. After breakfaft I thereforetook my leave, attended to the fhore byfeveral flaves, loaded Vv'ith ammunition and provilions,which my friend had provided for me.On my exprefllng fome difficulty in receiving folarge a fhare of his bounty, he civilly replied,that it was too little to mention, and that, if I hadcontinued with him a day or two longer, he Ihouldhave had time to have ferved me in a much bettermanner.Taking my leave of Mr. MarlTiall, I again cmbarkedalone on board m.y little veiTel, and, bleilcdwith a favourable fceady gale, I fet fail. Theday was extremely plcalant ; the late thunder ftormhad purified the air, by difuniting and diilipadngthe noxious vapours. The falling of heavy Ihcwers,with thunder, and brifk winds, from the coolregions of the N. W. contributes greatly towardsreftoring the falubrity of the air, and purity oftlie waters, by precipitating the putrefcent fcum,that rifes from the bottom, and floats upon thefurface, near the fliores of the rivers, in thtfcIquchern climates, during the hoc feafons. The8 lliorcs

*^6 TRAVELS mfliores of this great river St. Juan are very lev

NORTH AMERrcy\. 7-7towns, to make inquiry concerning the late alarmand depredations committed by the Indians uponthe traders ; which the nation being apprifed of, recommendedthefe deputies to be chofen and fent,as loon as poflible, in order to make reafonable eohcefllons,before the flame, already kindled, fhouldIjpread into a general war. The parties accordinglymet in St. Auguftine, and the affair was amicablyadjufted to the fatisfadion of both parties.The chiefs of the delinquent bands, whofe youngwarriors had committed the mifchief, promifed toindemnify the traders for the lofs of their goods,and requefted that they might return to their ftorehoufes,with goods as ullial, and that they IhouJd befafe in their perfons and property. The traders atthis time were adtually preparing to return.It appeared,upon a ftrid inveftigation of fails, that theaffair had taken its rife from the licentious condu6tof a few vagrant young hunters of the Siminole na-:ticn, who, imagining themfelves to have been iHtreated in their dealings with the traders (whichby the bye was likely enough to be true) took thifjviolent method of doing themfelves juftice. Theculprits however endeavoured to exculpate them^felves, by afferting, that they had no defign or intentionof robbing the traders of their effccfts, butmeant it only as a threat ; and that the traders, frorr>a confcioufnefs of their difhonefty, had been terrifiedand fled, leaving their ftorcs, which they tookpoffeffjon of, to prevent their being totally loft.This troubiefome affair being adjufted, was veryagreeable news to me, as I could now, without apprehenfions,afcend this grand river, and vifit itsdelightful fliores, where and when Iplealed.Bidding adieu to my obliging friend, I fpread myik'il to tiie favourable threes e, and by qoon came to

y8TRAVELS ina-breaft of fort Picolata ; where, being defirous ofgaining yet farther intelligence, I landed; but, tomy difappointment, found the fort difmanded anddeferted. This fortrefs is very ancient, and was builtby the Spaniards. It is a fquare tower, thirty feethigh, invefted with a high wall, without baftions,about breaPc high, pierced with loop holes and furroundedwith "a deep ditch. The upper (lory isopen on each fide, with battlennents, fupporting acupola or roof: thefe battlements were formerlymounted with eight four pounders, two on eachfiJe.The works are conftrufted with hewn flione, ce-The ftone was cut out of quar-mented with lime.ries on St. Anaibtius Ifland, oppofite St. Auguftine:it is of a pale reddilli brick colour, and a tef-.taceous compofition, confiPdng of fmall fragments offea-fliells and fine fand. It is well adapted to theconftru cling of fortifications. It lies in horizontalmaffes in the quairy, and conflitutes the foundationof that ifland.' The caftlc ac St. Auguftine, andmoft of the buildings of the town, are of this ftone.Leaving Picolata, I continued to afcend the river.I obkrvcd this day, during my progrefs upthe river, incredible numbers of fmall flying infeds^of the genus termed by naturalifts Ephemera, continuallyemerging from the fliallow water near fhore,fome of them immediately taking their flight totlie land, whilfl: myriads crept up the grafs andherbage, where rem.aining for a fliort time, as theyacquired fufiicient ftrength, they took their flightalfo, following their kindred to the main land.This rcfurredion from the deep, if I may fo exprefsit,commences early in the morning, and ceafesafter the fun is up. At evening they are feen inclouds

NORTH AMERICA, «->/ i*clouds of innumerable millions, Iwarming and wantoningin the ftill air, gradually drawing near theriver. They defcend upon its furface, and therequickly end their day, after committing their eo-asto the decpi which being for a little while toiTSiabout,enveloped in a vifcid fcum, are hatched, zndthe little Larva delcend into their fecure and darkhabitation, in the aozy bed beneath, where thtvremam gradually increal^ng in nze, until th€ returnmgfpringthey: then chlinge to a Nymph, whenthe genial heat brings them, as it were, into exiftence,and they again arife into the world. Thisfly leems to be delicious food for birds, frogs, and

§d TRAVELS INmelody of the feathered fongfters gradually ceafes;iand they betake themfelves to their leafy covertsfor fecurity and repofe.Solemnly and flowly move onward, to the river'sfhore, the ruilling clouds of the Ephemera*How awful the procefTion ! innumerable millions ofwinged beings, voluntarily verging on to dellruction,to the brink of the grave, where they beholdbands of their enemies with wide open jaws, readyto receive them. But as if infenfible of their danger,gay and tranquil each meets his beloved matein the Hill air, inimitably bedecked in their newnuptial robes. What eye can trace them, in theirvaried wanton amorous chaces, bounding and flutteringon the odoriferous air! With what peace,love, and joy, do they end the laft moments of theirexiilence ?I think we may afiert, without any fear of exaggeration,that there are annually of thefe beautifulwinged beings, which rife into exiftence, andfor a few momiCnts take a tranfient view of the gloryof the Creator's works, a number greater than thewhole race of mankind that have ever exifted fincethe creation ; and that, only from the fhores of thisriver. How many then mud have been producedfince the creation, when we confider the number oflarge rivers in America, in comparifon v/ith which,this river isbut a brook or rivulet.The importance of the exiftence of thefe beautifuland delicately formed litde creatures, whofeframe and organization are equally wonderful, moredelicate, and perhaps as complicated as thofe ofthe mod perfe6l human being, is well worth afew moments contemplation j I mean particularlywhea

NORTH AMERICA.8tviien they appear in the fly Itate. And if we confiiierthe very fhort period of that flage ofexiftence,which we may reafonably fuppofe to be the onlyfpace of their lifethat admits of pleafure and enjoyrnent,what a leffon doth it not afford us ofxhe vanityof our own purfuits!Their whole exiflence in this world is but onecomplete year : and at lead three hundred and fixtydays of that time they are in the form of an uglygrub, buried in mud, eighteen inches under water,and in this condition fcarcely locomotive, as eachlarva or grub has but its own narrow folitary cell,from which it never travels or moves, but in a perpendicularprogrefTion of a few inches, up and down,from the bottom to the furface of the mud, in orderto intercept the paffing atoms for its food, and get amomentary refpiration of frefh air; and even here itmuft be perpetually on its guard, in order to efcapethe troops of fifh and fhrimps watching to catch it,and from whom it has no efcape, but by inftantlyretreating back into its cell. One would be apt almoftto imagine them created merely for the foodof fifii and other animals.Having refted very well durihg tlie night, I wasawakened in the morning early, by the cheeringconverfe of the wild turkey-cocks (Meleagris occidentalis)faluting each other, from the fun-brightenedtops of the lofty Cupreflus didicha and Mag-"iiolia grandiflora. They begin at early dawn, andcontinue till fun-rife, from March to the lail of-April. The high forefts ring with the noife, likethe crowing of the domeftic cock, of thcfe fecialceminels ;the watch- word being caught and repeated,from one to another, for hundreds of milesGaround j

ISiTRAVELS IMaround j inlbmuch that the whole country is for anJiour or more in an univerfal fhout. A little afterfun-rife, their crowing gradually ceafes, they quittheir high lodging-places, and alight on the earth,where expanding their fiiver bordered train, they{brut and dance round about the coy fennale, whilethe deep forefts feem to tremble with their Ihrillnoife.This morning the winds on the great river werehigh and againil me; I was therefore obliged tokeep in port a great part of the day, which I employedin little excurfions round about my encampment.The Live Oaks are of an aftonilhing magnitude,and one tree contains a prodigious quantityof timbcrj yet, comparatively, they are not tall, evenin thefe forefts, where growing on ftrong land, incompany with others of great altitude (fuch asFagus iylvatica, Liquidambar, Magnolia grandiflora,and the high Palm tree) they ftrive while youngto be upon an equality with their neighbours, andto enjoy the influence of the fun-beams, and of thepure animating air. But the others at laft prevail,and their proud heads are feen at a great diftance,towering far above the reft of the foreft, which confiftschiefly of this fpecics of oak, Fraxinus, Ulmus,Acer rubrum, Laut us Borbonia, Quercus dentata.Ilex aquifolium, Olea Americana, Morus> Gledirfiatriacanthus, and, I believe, a fpecies of Saplndus.But the latter fpreads abroad his brav/ny arms, to.a great diftance. The trunk of the Live Oak isgenerally from twelve to eighteen feet in girt,,and rifcs ten or twelve feet erett from the earth,feme I have feen eighteen or twenty; then dividesitfelf iuro three, four, or five great limbs,6 which

NORTH AMERICA.8jwhich continue to grow In nearly an horizontal dire(5lion,each limb forming a gentle curve, or arch,from its bafe to its extremity. I have fteppedabove fifty paces, on a flrait line, from the trunk ofone of thefe trees, to the extremity of the limbs.It is evergreen, and the wood almoft incorruptible,even in the open air. It bears a prodigious quantityof fruit i the acorn is fmall, but fweet and agreeableto the tafte when roafted, and is food for almoft allanimals. The Indians obtain from it a fweet oil,which they ufe in the cooking of hommony, rice,&:c. ; and they alfo roaft it in hot embers, eating itas we do chefnuts.The wind being fair In the evening, I fat fail again,and croffing the river, made a good harbour on theEaft ihore, where I pitched my tent for the night.The bank of the river was about twelve or fifteenfeet perpendicular from its furface, but the afcentgentle. Although I arrived here early in the evening,I found fufficient attractions to choofe it for mylodging-place, and an ample field for botanical employment.It was a high, airy fituation, and commandedan extenfive and varied profpecl of the rivefand its fhores, up and down.Behold yon promontory, projefting far Into thegreat river, beyond the ftill lagoon, half a mile diftantfrom me : what a m.agnificent grove arifeson its banks ! how glorious the Palm ! how majeftlcallyftands the Laurel, its head forming a perfe6lcone ! its dark green foliage fcems filvered overNvith milk-white flowers. They are fo large, as tobe diftinftly vifible at the diftance of a mile or more.The Laurel Magnohas, which grow on this river*are the moft beautiful and tall that I have any^vhgre feen, unlefs we except thole, which ftandQ 2ea

§4 fRAVElLS INOh the bcinks of the MilTifippi;yet even thele miift'yield to thofe of St. Junn, in neatnefs of form,beauty of foliage, and, I think, in largenefs andfragrance of flovv^er. Their ufual height is about'one hundred feet, and fame greatly exceed that.The trunk is perfectly erect, rifing in the form ofa bcautiftil column, and fupporting a head like anobtufe cone. The flowers are on the extremitiesof the fubdivffions of the branches, in the center ofa' coronet of dark green, fhining, ovate pointedentire leaves : they are large, perfectly white, andexpanded like a full blown Rofe. They are polypetalous,confining of fifteen, twenty, or twentyfivepetals : thele are of a thiclc coriaceous texture,and deeply concave, their edges being fomewhatreflex, when mature". In the center ftands theyoung cone ; which is large, of a flefh colour,and elegantly fliwdded with a gold coloured ftigma,that by the end ot fummer is greatly enlarged, andin the autumn ripens to a large crimfon cone orflrobile, difclofmg multitudes of large coral redberries, which for a time hang down from themyfufpended by a fine, white, filky thread, four, fix, oreven nine inches in length. The flowers of this treeare the largefl: and mod complete of any yet known:when fully expanded, tl>ey are of fix, eight, andnine inches diameter. The pericarpium and berriespolTcfs an agieeiible fpicy Icent, and an aroma--tic bitter tafte. T'lie wood when feafoned is of aflraw colour, compaft, and haj-der and firmer thanthat of tlie poplar.It is really aftonifliing to behold the Grape-Vinesin this place. From tiieir bulk and llrength, onewould imagine they were combined to pull downthefc mighty tree:* to the curtlii when, in fad:.,amongfl:

NORTH AMERICA.;imong{l -other good piirpofes,^5they feive to upliold.them. They are frequently nine, ten, and twelveinches in diamettr, and twine round the trunks ofthe trees, climb to their very tops, and then fpread^long their limbs, from tree to tree, throughoutxhe ibreft: the fruit is but fmall and ill tafted.The Grape vines, with the Rlmmnus vdlubilis, Bignoniaradicans, Bignonia crucigera, and anotherrambling fhrubby vine, which feems allied to theRhamnizs, perhaps Zizyphus Icande-ns, feem to tiethe trees together with garlands and felloons, andform enchanting fliades. The long mofs, fo called,(TiUandfea ufneaoides), is a fingular and furprifingvegetable production : it grows from the limbs andtwigs of all trees in thefe fouthern regions, fromN. lat. 35 down as far as 28, and I believe everywhere within the tropics. Whereve.r it fixes itfeli,on a limb, or branchy it fpreads into fhort and intricatedivarications ; thefe in time colleft dufc,wafted by the wind, which, probably by the moiftureit abforbs, foftens the bark and fippy part ofthe tree, about the roots of the plant, and -rendersit more fit for it to eftabliili itfelf; and frorathis fmaJl beginning, it Lncreafes, by fendbg downw^ardsand obliquely, on all fides, long pendaRtbranches, which divide and fubdivide themfelvesad infinitum. It is common to find the fpaces betwixtthe limbs of large trees, almoil occupied bythis plant: it alfo hangs waving in the wind, likeftreamers, from the lower limbs, to the length offifteen or twenty feet, and of bulk and weight,more than feveral men togetlier could carry ; andin fome places, cart loads of it are lying on theground, torn off by the violence of the v/ind.Any part of the living plant, torn off and caughtin the limbs of a tree, will prefently take root,G 3grow.

;S6TRAVELS INgrow, and jncreafe, in the fame degree of pei-fec^tion as if it had fprimg up from the ked. Whenfrefh, cattle and deer v/ill eat it in the winter feafon.It feenns particularly adapted to the purpofeof ftufEng mattraffes, chairs, faddles, collars, &c.and for thefe purpofes, nothing yet known equalsit. The Spaniards in South America and the Weft-Indies, work it into cables, that are faid to be veryftrong and durable ;but, in order to render it ufefuj,it ought to be thrown into lliallow ponds of water,and expofed to the fun, v/here it foon rots, and theoutfide furry fubftance is difiblved. It is then takenout of the water, and fpread to dry ; when, after alitde beating and fhaking, it is fufficiently clean,nothing remaining but the interior, hard, blackyeisdic filament, entangled together, and gready refemblinghorfc-hair.The Zanthoxylum clavaHerculis alfo grows here.It is a beautiful fpreading tree, and much like a wellgrown apple-tree. Its arom.atic berry is deliciousfood for the little turtle dove; and epicures fay, thatit gives their flefh a fine flavour.Flaving finifhed my obfervations, Ibetook myfelfto reft 5 and when the plunging and roaring of thecrocodiles, and the croaking of the frogs, had ceafed,Iflept very well during the remainder of the night;as a breeze from the river had fcattered the clouds©f mufquitoes that at firft infefted me.It being a fine cool morning, and fair wind, I fatfaW early, and faw, this day, vait quantities of thePiftia ftratiotes, a y^^Y Angular aquatic plant. Itfillociates in large communities, or floating iflands,fome of them a quarter of a mile in extent, v^'hichare impelled to and fro^ as the wind jind currenti^riay

NORTH AMERICA. 87may direc^t. They are firll produced on, or cbfeto, the Ihore, in eddy water, where they graduiUyfpread themfelves into the river, formii^ mod delightfulgreen plains, feveral miles in length, and infome places a quarter of a mile in breadth. Theleplants are nourifhed and kept in their proper horizontalfituanon, by means of long fibrous roots,which defcend from the nether center, downwards,towards the muddy bottom. Each plant, when fullgrown, bears a general refemblance to a well grownplant of garden lettuce, though the leaves are morenervous, of a firmer contexture, and of a full greencolour, inclining to yellow.It vegetates on the furfaceof the (till ftagnant water ; and in its naturalfituat on, is propagated from feed only. In greatftorms of wind and rain, when the river is fuddenlyraifed, large mafles of thefe floating plains are brokenloofe, and driven from the fhores, into the widewater, where they have the appearance of iflets, andfloat about, until broken to pieces by the winds andwaves Jor driven again to fhore, on Ibme diftantcoafl: of die river, where they again find footing,and there, forming new colonies, fpread and extendthemfelves again, until again broken up and diiperfedas before. Thefe floating iflands prefent avery entertaining profpe6t : for although we beholdan aflTemblage of the primary produ6tions of natureonly, yet the imagination feems to remain in fufpenfeand doubt j as in order to enliven the delufion,and form a moft pidurefque appearance, we fee notonly flowery plants, clumps of fhrubs, old weatherbeatentrees, hoary and barbed, with the long mofswaving from their fnags, but we alfo fee them completelyinhabited, and alive, with crocodiles, ferpents,frogs, otters, crows, herons, curlews^ jackdaws, &c.G 4There

^S TRAVELS INThere f'-ems, in fliort, nothing wanted hut the appearanceof a wigwam and a canoe to complete thefcene.Keepin2- alorg the Weft or T dian fhore, I fawbafking, on the fedgy banks, nurribers of aUigators%fome of them of an enormous fize.The high foretis on this coaf!: now wore a grand?.nd fubha'ie appearance ithe earth rifjng graduallyfrom the river weftward, by eafy fwelling ridges,behind one another, lifting the diftant groves up intothe flcies. The trees are of the lofty kind, as thegrand laurel magnolia, palma elata, liquidambarftyrucuiua, fgus fylyaiica, querci, juglans hiccory,fraxiiius, and others.On rny doubling a long point of land, the riverappeared furprifingly widened, formjng a large bay,of an ov?l fo'-m, and feveral miles in extent. On theVv jIt fide it was bordered round with lovy marfhes,and invefted with a fv/amp of Cyprefs, the treesfo ^'T V, as 10 preclude the fight of the high-landfoiclts beyond them; and thefe trees, having flagtops, and ail of equal height, feemed to be a greenplain, lifted up and fjppcrrc J upon columns in theair, round the \¥ea fide of the bay.The Cu'?"'^rnis difdcha ftands in the firft order ofNorth Amenccii tre* s. Its majefLic feature is furprifing;and on ^nproaching it, we are ftruckwith a kind of a-.vc, at beholding the fiatelinefs oftlie trunk, lifting its cumbrous top towards the fkics,and calling a /ide (hade upon the ground, as adark intervening cloud, which, for a time, excludes• I have maJc ufe of the terms alligator aiu! crocodile indifcriminately^or this ;iaimal, aliigutoi- bciij^; thu country name.the

;NORTH AMEftlCA. 89the rays of the fun. The delicacy of its coloiTr^ andtexture of its leaves, exceed every thing in vegetation.It generally grows in the water, or in lowflat lands, near the banks of great rivers and lakes,that are covered, great part

•ranged90 TRAVELS INballs, its feed being their favourite food. Thetrunks of rhefe trees, vi.en hollowed put, makelarge and durable pectiaugers and canoc^^, and affordexcellent ihingies, boards, and other timber,adapted to every p\irpofe in fame built! ins;s. Vv^henthe planters fell thefc migh.y trees, they raife aflage round them, as high as to reach above thebutc^trffes ; on this fcage, ei^ht or ten negroesafcciid with their axes, and fall to work round itstrunk. 1 have feen trunks of thefe trees that wouldmeaiure eight, ten, and twelve feet in diameter,for forty and fifty feet ftraight fhaft.As I continued coafting the Indian fliore of thisbay, on doubling a promontory, I fuddenly faw beforeme an Indian fctdement, or village. It was afine fituation, the bank rifing gradually from thewater. There were eight or ten habitations, in arow, or flreet, fronting the water, and about fiftyyards diftance from it. Some of the youth werenaked, up to their hips in the water, fiiking withrods and lines; whilft others, younger, were divertingthemfelves in fliooting frcgs with bows and arrows.On my near aporoach, the little childrentook to their heels, and ran to Ibme women whowere hoeing corn; but the ftouter youth ftoodtheir ground, and, fmiling, called to me. As Ipalled along, I obferved fome elderly people reclinedon fkins fpread on the ground, under thecool fhade of fpreading Oaks and Palms, that werein front of their houfes : they arofe, andeyed me as I pafled, but perceiving that I kept onwithout flopping, they refumed their former pofition.They were civil, and appeared happy intheir fituaiion.«•There was a large Orange grove at the upperend

NORTH AMERICA.piend of their village ; the trees were large, carefullypruned, and the ground under them clean,open, and airy. There fcemed to be feveral hundredacres of cleared land about the village ; aconfiderable portion of which was planted, chieflywith corn (Zea), Batatas, Beans, Pompions, Squafnes(Cucurbitaverrucofa)j Melons (Cucurbita citrullus),Tobacco (Nicotiana), &c. abundantly fuiiicicnt forthe inhabitants of the village.After leaving this village, and ccafling a confiderablecove of the lake, I perceived the river beforeme much contradled within its late bounds,buc ftill retaining the appearance of a wide anddeep river, both coafts bordered for feveral mileswith rich deep fwamps, well timbered with Cyprefs,AHi, Elm, Oak, Hiccory, Scarlet Maple, Nyffaaquatica, Nyflii tupilo, Gordonia lailanthus, Coryphapalma, Corypha pumila, Laurus Borbonia, &c.Ihe river gradually narrowing, I came in fight ofCharlotia, where it is not above half a mile wide,but deep j and as there was a confiderable currentagainft me, I came here to an anchor. This townwas founded by Den. Roile, efq. and is fituatedon a high bluff, on ihe eaft coafl, fifteen or twentyfeet perpendicular from the river, and is in lengthhalf a mile, or more, upon its banks. The upperItratum of the earth confifls entirely of feveral fpeciesof frefli water Cochkse, as Coch. helix, Coch.Ubyrinthus, and Coch. voluta ; the fccond, of ma-,rine fheils, as Concha mytulus, Cone, ofirea, Cone,peeton, Haliotis auris marina, Hal. patella, &c.mixed with lea fand ; and the third, or lower flratum,which was a little above the common level ofthe river, of horizontal malles of a pretty hardrock, compofed almoft entirely of the above fnell,generally w^iole, and lying in every direftion, petrified

^ZTRAVELS IMtrified or cemented together, with fine white fand;and thefe rocks were bedded in a ftratiim of clay.I faw many fragments of the earthen ware of thpancient inhabitants, and bones of animals, amongitthe fhells, and mixed with the earth, to a greatdepth. This high fhelly bank continues, by gentleparallel iidges, near a quarter of a mile back fromthe river, gradually diminilTiing to the level of thefandy plains^ which widen before and on each fidf;eaftward, to a feetiiingly unlimited diftance, andappear green and delightful, being covered withgrafs and the Corypha rept-ns, and thinly plantedwith trees of the long-leaved, or Broom Pine, anddecorated with clumps, or coppices,of floriferous,evergreen, and arotnatic fhrubs, and enamelledwith patches of the beautiful little Kalmea ciliata.Thefe ilieliy ridges have a vegetable furface of loofeblack mould, very fertile, which naturally producesOrange groves. Live Oak, Laurus Borbonia, Palmaelata, Carica papaya^ Sapindus, Liquidambar,Frr.xinus exelfior, Morus rubra, Ulmus, Tilia,Sambucus, Ptelea, Tallow-nut or Wild Lime, andmany others.Mr. Rolle obtained from th^ crown a grant offorty thoufand acres of land, in any part of EaftFloiida, where the land was unlocated. It feems^his views v/ere to take up his grant near St. Mark's^in the bay of Apalntchi ; and he Cat fail from England,with about one hundred families, for that place ;but by contrary winds, and ftrefs of weather, heniidcd his aim ; and being obliged to put into St.Juan'?, he, with fome of the principal of his adherents,afcended the river in a boat, and beingftruck with its majelly, the grand fituadons of itsbanks, and fertility of its lands, and at the fametime confidering the extcnfive navigation of theriver,

NORTH AMERICA.9^5fiVer, and its near vicinity to St. Auguftine, thecapital and feat of government, he altered his viewson St. IVIark's, and fuddenly determined on thisplace, where he landed his firil litde colony. Butit feems, from an ill-concerted plan in its infanteftablifhmcnt, negligence, or extreme parfimonyin fending proper recruits and other neceiTiries,together with a bad choice of citizens, the fettlementby degrees grew weaker, and at length totallyfell to the ground. Thofe of them whocfcaped the conftant contagious fevers, fled thedreaded place, betaking themfelves for fubfiftenceto the more fruitful and populous regions of Georgia,and Carolina.The remaining old habitations are moulderingto earth, except the manfion houfe, which is alarge frame building, of cyprefs wood, yet irltolerable repair, and inhabited by an overfeer andhis family. There is alfo a blackfmith with hisfliop and family, at a fmall diftance from it. Themoll valuable diftri6t belonging to Mr. RoUe'sgrant, lies on Dun's lake, and on a little river,which runs from it into St. Juan. This diftri(5tconfills of a vaft body of rich fwamp land, fit forthe growth of rice, and fome very excellent high,land furrounding it. Large fwamps of excellentrice land are alfo fituited on the well fhore of theriver,oppofite to Charlotia.The aborigines of America had a very greattown in this place, as appears from the great tumuli,and conical m.ounts of earth and fhells, andother traces of a fettlement which yet remain.There grew in the old fields on thefe heights, greatquantities of callicarpa, and of the beautiful fhrubannona : the flowers of the latter are large, white,and iweet fcented.Havinty

94 TRAVELS IMHaving obtained from the people here direftlonsfor difcovering die little remote ifland -where thetraders and their goods were fecreted, which wasabout feven miles higher up, I fat fail again, witha fairv/ind, and in about one hour and an halfarrived at the defired place, having fortunatelytaken the right channel of the river, amongft amultitude of others, occafioned by a number oflow fwampy iflands. But I fhould have run by thelanding, if the centinels had not by chance CcGnme drav/ing near them; who perceiving that Iwas a white man, ventured to hail me ; upon whichI immediately ftruck fail, and came to. Upon mylanding they conduced me to their encampment,forty or fifty yards from the river, in an almoftimpenetrable thicket.Upon my inquiry, they confirmedthe accounts of the amicable treaty at St,Auguftine, and in confequence thereof, they hadalready removed great part of the goods to thetrading- houfe, which was a few xniles higher up,on the Indian fhore. They fhowed me my cheft,which had been carefully preferved, and upon infpedlionI found every thing in good order. Havinglearned from them, that all the efiefts would, in afew days time, be removed to the llore-houfe, Ibid adieu to them, and in a little time arrived atthe trading-houfe, where I was received with greatpbiicenefs, and treated, during a refidence of feveralr.ionths^ with the utmoil civility and friendfliip,by Mr.C. M^Latche, Meifrs. Spalding and Kelfali'sagent.'i~he river almoft from Charlotia, and for neartv/clve miles higher up, is divided into many channelsby a great number of iilands.CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA.J^CHAP. IV.Having refted myfelf a few days, and by rangingabout the neighbouring plains and groves, furroundingthis pleafant place, pretty well recovered myftrength and ipirits, I began to think of planning myfuture excurficns, at a diflance round about thiscentre. I found, from frequent conferences withMr. M'Latche, that 1 might with fafety extend myjourneys every way, and with prudence, even intothe towns and fettlcments of the Indians, as they,"Were perfectly reconciled to us, and fincerely wiflied,for the renewal of our trade.There were three trading -houfes to be eilablilliedthis fummer, each of which had its fupplies fromthe {tore on St. Juan, where I now had my refidencc,and in which the produce or returns wereto centre annually, in order to be fnipped for Savannaor Sunbury, and from thence to Eurupe.One of thefe trading-houfes was to be fixedabout fixty miles higher up the river, from this place,by the name of Spalding's upper ftcrc ; a fecond atAlachua, about fifty miles weft from the river St-Juan; and a third at Tabhafochte, a confiderabletown of the Siminoles, on the river Little St. Juan,near the bay of Apalachi, about one hundred andtwenty miles diitance. Each of thefe places I defignedto viiit, before the return of the vefTei toFrederica in the autumn, thac i might avail myfelfof an opportunity fo favourable for tranfportingmy collcdlions fo fkr on their wgy towardsCharlefton.Th«

;^5Travels titThe company for Alachua were to fet Oi? irlabout a month; that to Little St. Juan, in July,v/hich fuited me exceedingly well, as I might make!my tour to the upper ftore diredlly, that part of thecountry being at this feafon enrobed in its richefband gayeft apparel.About themiddle of May, eVery thing being inreadinefs to proceed up the river, we fat fail.Thetraders with their goods in a large boat wenta-head, and myfelf in my little \*-eflel followed themand as their boat was large, and deeply laden, Ifound that I could eafily keep up with them, and, if*I chofe, out-fail them ; but I preferred keeping themcompany, as well for the fake of collecting what Icould from converfation, as on account of myfafety in crofTing the great lake, expefting toreturn alone, and defcend the river at my ownleifure.We had a pleafant day, the wind fair and mode^rate, and ran by Mount Hope, fo named by my fatherJohn Bartram, when he afcended this river,about fifteen years ago. It was a very high fliellybluff, upon the little lake. It was at that time a fineOrange grove, but now cleared and converted into alarge indigo plantation, the property of an Englifligentleman, under the care of an agent. In theevening we arrived at Mount Royal, where we cameto, and ftayed all night : we were treated withgreat civility, by a gentleman whofe name wasKean, and who had been an Indian trader.From this place we enjoyed a mofl enchantingprofpeft of the great Lake George, through a grandavenue, if I may fo term this narrow reach of theriver, which widens gradually for about two miles,towards

NORTH AMERICA.towards its entrance into the lake, fo as to eludethe exad: rules of perfpedive, and appears of anequal width.At about fifty yards diftance from the landingplace, {lands a magnificent Indian mount. Aboutfifteen years ago I vifited this place, at which timethere were no fettlements of white people, but allappeared wild and favage ;yet in that uncultivatedHate it poflefled an almofb inexprefTible air of gran -deur, which was now entirely changed. At thattime there was a very coniiderable extent of oldfields round about the mount ; there v/as alfo alarge orange grove, together with palms and liveoaks, extending from near the mount, along thebanks, downwards, all of which has fmce beencleared away to make room for planting ground.But what greatly contributed towards completingthe magnificence of the fcene, was a noble Indianhighway, which led from the great mount, on aftraight line, three quarters of a mile, firft through apoint or wing of the orang-e o-rove, and continuing:thence through an awful foreft of live oaks, it wasterminated by palms and laurel magnolias, on theverge of an oblong artificial lake, which was onthe edg-e of an extenfive green level favanna. Thisgrand highway was about fifty yards wide, funka little below the common level, and the earththrown up on each fide, making a bank of abouttwo feet high. Neither nature nor art could anywhere prefent a more ftriking contrail, as you approachedthis favanna. The glittering water pondplayed on the fight, through the dark grove, like abrilliant diamond, on the bofom of the illuminedfavanna, bordered with various flowery Ihrubs andplants; and as we advanced injco the plain, theHfighcg'J

!9? TRAVELS INfight was agreeably relieved by a diftant view of theforefts, which partly environed the green expanfe onthe left hand, whilfr the imagination was ftill flatteredand entertained by the far diftant mifty pointsof the furrounding forefts, which projected into theplain, alternately appearing and disappearing,makinga grand fweep round on the right, to the diftantbanks of the great lake. But that venerable groveis now no more. All has been cleared away andplanted with indigo, corn, and cotton, but fince deierted: there was now fcarcely five acres of groundunder fence. It appeared like a defart to a greatextent, and terminated, on the land fide, by frightfulthickets, and open pine forefts.It appears,feme tafte,hov/ever, that the late proprietor hadas he has preferved the mount and thislittle adjoining grove inviolate. The profpedl fromthis ftation is fo happily fituated by nature, as tocomprife at one view the whole of the fublime andpleafing.At the reanimating appearance of the rifing fun,nature again revives ; and I obey the cheerfiil fummonsof the gentle monitors of the meads andYe vigilant and faithful fervants of the Moft Highye who worfhip the Creator morning, noon, andeve, in fimplicity of heart ! I hafte to join the univerfalanthem. My heart and voice unite withyours, in fincere homage to the great Creator, theuniverfal Sovereign.O may I be permitted to approach the throne ofmercy ! May thefe my humble and penitent fupplications,amidft the univerial fhouts of homage fromf hy creatures, meet with thy acceptance !And

;And although I am fenfible,NORTH AMERICA. 99that my fervice cannotincreafe or diminifh thy glory, yet it is pleafingto thy fervant to be permitted to found thy praifewe know that thou alonefor, O fovereign Lord !art perfeft, and worthy to be woriliipped. O univerfalFather ! look down upon us, we befeechthee, with an eye of pity and compafTion, and grantthat univerfal peace and love may prevail in theearth, even that divine harmony which fills the heavens,thy glorious habitation !And, O fovereign Lord !fince it has pleafed theeto endue man with power and pre-eminence hereon earth, and eftablifli his dominion over all creatures,may we look up to thee, that our underftandingmay be fo illuminated with wifdom, andour hearts warmed and animated with a due fenfeof charity, that we may be enabled to do thy will,and perform our duty towards thofe fiibmitced toour fervice and protedlion, and be merciful to chem,even as we hope for mercy.Thus may we be worthy of the dignity and fuperiorityof the high and diftinguiflied ftation inwhich thou hail placed us here on earth.The morning being fair, and having a gentle favourablegale, we left our pleafant harbour, in purfuitof our defired port.Now as we approach the capes, behold the littleocean of Lake George, the diftant circular coaftgradually rifing to view, from his mifty fringedhorizon. I cannot end rely fupprefs my apprehenfionsof danger. My vefTel at once diminiilied toa nut-lliell on the fwelling fcas, and at the dif-Jance of a few miles, mud appear to the furprifedH aobiervef

lOOTRAVELS I?^obferver as fome aquatic animal, at intervals crrterg'-^ing from its furface. This lake is a large andbeautiful piece of water ; it is a dilatation of theriver St. Juan, and is about fifteen miles wide, andgenerally about fifteen or twenty feet deep,exceptingat the entrance of the river, where lies a bar,which carries eight or nine feet water. The lakeis beautified with two or three fertile ifiands. Thefirft lies in the bay, as we afcend into the lake, nearthe weft coaft, about S. W. from Mount Royal,from whence it appears to form part of the weftfliore of the bay. The fecond ifland leems to rideon the lake before us as we enter, about a mile withinit. This ifland is about two miles in breadth,and three quarters of a mile where broadeft, moftlyhigh land, v/ell timbered, and fertile. The third andlaft lies at th.e fouth end of the lake, and near theentrance of the river ; it is nearly circular, andcontains but a few acres of land, the earth high andfertile, and almoft an entire orange grove, withgrand m.agnolias and palms.Soon after entering the lake, the wind blew fobrin^y from the weft, with thunder- clouds gatheringupon the horizon,that we were obliged to feeka ihelter from the approaching tempeft, on the largebeautiful ifland before mentioned; where, havinggained the fouth promontory, we met with an excellentharbour, in which we continued the remainingpart of the day and the night. This circumftancegave rne an opportunity to explore the greateft-part of it.This ifland appears, from obvious veftiges, tohave been once the chofen refidence of an Indianprince, there being to this day evident remains ofa large

NORTH AMERICA.lOIa large town of the Aborigines. It was fituated onan eminence near the banks of the lake, and commandeda comprehenfive and charming profpe6l ofthe waters, iflands, eaft and weft fhores of thelake, the capes, the bay, and Mount Royal ; andto the fouth, the view is in a manner infinite, wherethe Ikies and waters feem to unite. On the fite ofthis ancient town, ftands a very pompous Indianmount, or conical pyramid of earth, from whichruns in a ftraight line a grand avenue or Indian highway,through a magnificent grove of magnolias,live oaks, palms, and orange trees, terminatingat the vero;e of a lar2;e green level favanna. Thisifland appears to have been well inhabited, as isvery evident, from the quantities of fragments ofIndian earthen ware, bones of anjmals and other remains,particularly in the fhelly heights and ridgesall oyer the ifland. There are no habitations atprefent on the ifland, but a great number of deer,turkeySj bears, wolves, wild cats, fquirrels, racoons,and opofllims. The bears are invited here to partakeof the fruit of the orange tree, which they areimmoderately fond of; and both they and turkeysare made extremely fat and delicious, from theirfeeding on the fv/eet acorns of the live oak.There grow on thisifland many curious flirubs,particularly a beautiful fpecies of lantana (perhapslant. camerara, Lin. Syft. Veget. p. 473). Itgrows in coppices in old fields, about five or fixfeet high, the branches adorned with rough ferratedleaves, which fit oppofite, and the twigs terrr'iatedwith umbelliferous tufts of orano-e-colouredOblofibms, which are fucceeded by a ciufter of fmallblue berries : the flowers are of various colours, ondie fame plant, and even in the fame clufter, asH 3crimfon,

;102 TRAVELS INcrlmfon, fcarlet, orange and golden yellow : thewhole plant is of a mod agreeable fcent. Theorange-flowered fhrub Hibifcus is alfo confpicuouflybeautiful (perhaps Hibifc. fpinifex of Linn.) It growsfive or fix feet high, and fubramous. The branchesare divergent, and furnifhed with cordated leaves,which are crenated. The flowers are of a moderatefize, and of a deep fplendid yellow. The pericarpiiare fpiny. I alio faw a new and beautifulpalmated leaved convolvulus *. This vine ramblesover the fhrubs, and ftrolls about on the groundits leaves are elegantly finuated, of a deep grafsgreen, and fit on long petioles. The flov/ers arcvery large, infundibuliform, of a pale incarnate colour,having a deep crimfon eye.There are feme rich fwamps on the fhores of theiflcnd, and thefe are verged on the outfide withlarge marfhes, covered entirely with tall grafs,rufhes, and herbaceous plants ; amongft thefe arefeveral fpecies of Hibifcus, particularly the hibifcuscoccineus. This moft fl:ately of all herbaceousplants grows ten or twelve feet high, branchingregularly, C> as to form a fharp cone. Thefebranches alfo divide again, and are embellifhedv/ith large expanded crimfon flowers. I have feenthis plant of the fize and figuretree,of a beautiful littlehaving at once feveral hundred of thefe fplendidflowers, which may be then feen at a greatdiftance. They continue to flower in fuccellionall fummer and autumn, when the ftems witherand decay ; but the perennial root fends forth newftems the next fpring, and fo on for many years.Its leaves are large, deeply and elegantly finuated,having fix or fevcn very narrow dentated feg-* Con vol. diffcdiis.rnents |

NORTH AMERICA.IO3ments ; the furface of the leaves, and of the wholeplant, is fmooth and polifned. Another fpeclesof hibifcus, worthy of particular notice, is likewifea tall floiirifliing plant; feveral ftrong ftemsarife from a root, five, fix., and feven feet high,embelliflied witii ovate lanciohte leaves, coveredflowers are very large,with a fine down on their nether furfaces : theand of a deep incarnate colour.The lafi: we fiiall now mention feems nearly alliedto the alcea; the fiowers are a fize lefs thanthe hibifcus, and of a fine damafls: rofe colour, andare produced in great profufion on the tall pyramidalItems.The lobelia cardinalis grows in great plenty here,and has a moft fplendid appearance amidft extenfivemeadows of the golden corymbous jacobca (feneciojacobea) and odorous pancratium.Having finifhed my tour on this princely ifland,I prepared for repofe. A calm evening had fijcceededthe flormy day. The late tumultuous windshad now ceafed, the face of tlie lake had becomeplacid, and the ll

;104. TRAVELS INfljrf, lapfing on the hard beaten lliore, and the tenderwarblings of the painted nonpareil and otherwinged inhabitants of the grove.At the approach of day the dreaded voiceof thealhgators fliook the ifle, and refounded along theneighbouring coafbs, proclaiming the appearance ofthe glorious fun. I arofe, and prepared to accomplifniny daily tafk. A gentle favourable gale ledus out of the harbour : we failed acrofs the lake,and towards evening entered the river on the oppofitefouth coaft, where we made a pleafant andfafe harbour, at a fhelly promontory, the eaft capeof the river on that fide of the lake. It is a moftdefira'cle fituation, commanding a full view of thelake. The cape oppofite to us was a vaft cyprefsfwamp, environed by a border of graffy marllies,which were projected farther into the lake by floatingfields of the bright green piftia flratoites, whichrpfe and frll alternately with the waters. Juft toleeward of this point, and about half a mile in thelake, is the litde round ifland already mentioned.But let us take notice of our harbour and its environs: it is a beautiful little cove, juft within thefandy point,' which defends it from the beatingfurf of the lake. From a flielly bank, ten ortv/elve feet perpendicular from the water, we entereda grove of live oaks, palm, magnolia, andorange trees, which grow amongft fhelly hills, andlow ridges, occupying about three acres of ground,comprehending tne iftjimus, and a part of the peninfula,which joins it to the grafiy plains. 1 his enchandnglitde foreft is partly encircled by a deepcreek, a branch of the river, that has its Iburce inthe high fbrefts of the main, fouth eaft from usand winds dirough the extcnfive grafly plains whichfurround

NORTH AMERICA.IO5fiirround this peninfula, to an almoft infinite diftance,and then unites its waters with thole of theriver, in this little bay which formed our harbour.This bay, about the mouth of the creek, is ilmoftcovered with the leaves of the nymi, hrea n iambo:its large fweet-fcented yellow flov/ers are lifted uptwo or three feet above the furface of the water,each upon a green ftarol, reprefcnting the cap ofliberty.The evening drawing on, and there being noconvenient landing place for feveral miles higher upthe river, we concluded to remain here all night.Whilft my fellow travellers were employing themfelvesin colle6ling fire-wood, and fixing our camp,I improved the opportunity in reconnoitring ourground ; and taking my fufee with me, I penetratedthe grove, and afterwards entered Ibme almoft unlimitedfavannas and plains, which were abfolutelyenchanting; they had been lately burnt by the Indianhunters, and had jufl now recovered their vernalyerdure and gaiety.How happily fituated is this retired fpot of earth !What an elyfium it is ! where the wandering Siminole,the naked red warrior, roams at large, andafter the vigorous chafe retires from the fcorchingheat of the meridian fun. Plere he reclines, andrepofes under the odoriferous fhades of Zanthoxylon,his verdant couch guarded by the Deity ; Liberty,and the Mufes, infpiring him v^ith wifdomand valour, whilft the balmy zephyrs fin him tofleep.Seduced by thefe fublime enchanting fcencs ofprimitive nature, and thefe vifions of terreftrial happinefs,I had roved fir away from Cedar Point, but4 awakening

Io6TRAVELS INawakening to my cares, I turned aboutj and in theevening regained our camp.On my return, I found feme of my coinpanionsfifhing for trout,round about the edges of the floatingnymphsa, and not unfuccefsfully, having thencaught more than fufEcient for us all. As the methodof taking thefe fifh is curious and fmgular, Ifhall juft mention it.They are taken with a hook and line, but withoutany bait. Two people are in a little canoe, onefitting in the Hern to iteer, and the other near thebow, having a rod ten or twelve feet in length, toone end of which is tied a llrong line, about tv/entyinches in length, to which are fattened three largehoQksj back to back. Thefe are fixed very fecurely,and covered with the white hair of a deer's tail,ilireds of a redgarter, and fome parti-coloured feathers,all which form a tuft or taffel, nearly aslarge as one's fift^ and entirely cover and concealthe hooks : this is called a bob. The fteerfmanpaddles fofcly, and proceeds (lowly along fhore,keeping the boat parallel to it, at a diftance jullfudicient to admit the fiflierman to reach the edgeof the floating weeds along fliore ; he now ingeniouflyfwings the bob backwards and forwards, jufl:above the furfacc, and fometimes tips the watervvith it; when the unfortunate cheated trout inliandyfprings from under the weeds,and feizes thefuppcfed prey. Thus he is caught without a pofTibilityof efcape, unkfs he break the hooks, line, orr.)d, which he, however, fometimes does by dint offlrengch ; but, to prevent this, the filherman ufedto the fpoit, is careful not to raife the reed fuddenly;ip, but.jerks it inftanrly backwards, then fteadilydrags the flurdy reludant fifa to the fide of the6 canoe.

NORTH AMERICA.IO7canoe, and with a fudden upright jerk brings himintoit.The head of this fifli makes about one third ofhis length, and confequently the mouth is very large:birds, fiih, frogs, and even ferpents, are frequentlyfound in its ftomach.The trout is of a lead colour, inclining to a deepblue, and marked with tranfverfe waved lifts, of adeep flate colour, and, when fully grown, has a call:of red or brick colour. The fins, with the tail,which is large and beautifully formed, are of a lightreddifh purple, or flefli colour: the whole body iscovered with large fcales. But what is moft fingular,this fifh is rem.arkably ravenous ; nothingliving that he can feize upon efcapes his jaws j andthe opening and extending of the branchioftega, atthe momicnt he rifes to the furface to feize his prey,difcovering his bright red gills through the tranfparentwaters, give him a very terrible appearance.Indeed it may be obferved, that all fiili of prey havethis opening and covering of the gills very large, inorder to difcharge the great quantity of water whichthey take in at their mouth, when they ftrike at theirprey. This fifli is nearly cuneiform, the body taperinggradually from the breail to the tail, andlightly comprefled on each fide. They frequentlyweigh fifceen, twenty, and thirty pounds, and aredelicious food.My companion, the trader, being defirous oferoding the river to the oppofite fhore, in hopes ofgetting a turkey, I chofe to accompany him, as itoffered a good opportunity to obferve the naturalproductions of thofe rich fwamps and ifiands ofthe river. Having croffed the river, which is herefive

loSTRAVELS INfive or fix hundred yards wide, we entered a narrowchannel, which, after a Terpentine courfe for fomemiles, rejoins the main river again, above -, forminga large fertile ifiand of rich low land. Wclanded on this ifland, and foon faw a fine roebuck *at fome diftance from ns, who appeared leader of acompany of deer that were feeding near him on theverge of a green meadov/. My companion partedfrom me in piirHiit of the deer, one way ; and I,obferving a flock of turkeys at fome diftance, onthe other, direcfled my fteps towards them, andwith great caution got near them ; when, finglingout a large cock, and being jult on the point offiring^ I obferved that feveral young cocks were affrightedjand in their language v/arned the reftto be on their guard againft an enemy, whomi Iplainly perceived was induftrioufly making his fubtileapproaches towards them, behind the fallentrunk of a tree, about twenty yards from me. Thiscunning fellow-hunter was a large fat wild cat(lynx): he faw me, and at times feemed to watchmy motions, as if determined to feize the deliciousprey before me.Upon which I changed my objedt,and levelled my piece at him. At that inftant, mycompanion, at a diftance, alfo difcharged his pieceat the deer, the report of which alarmed the flockof turkeys; and my fellow-hunter, the cat, fprangover the log, and trotted off. The trader alio mifl'edhis deer : thus we foiled each other. By this timeit being near night, we returned to cannp, wherehaving a delicious meal ready prepared for our hungryflomaciis, we iat down in a circle round ourwholefome repaft.How fupremcly bleflTed were our hours at this* C'.ivvis Alvuticus. Tlie American i!cer.time !

NORTIt AMERICA.IO9time ! plenty of delicious and healthful food, ourftomachs keen, with contented minds; under nocontroul, but what reafon and ordinate palTions dictated,far removed from the feats of (Irife,Our fituation was like that of the primitive ftateof man, peaceable, contented and fociable. Thefimple and necefTary calls of nature being fatisfied,we were altogether as brethren of one family, ftrangersto envy, malice, and rapine.The night being over we arofe, and purfued ourcourfe up the river ; and in the evening reached thetrading-houfe, Spalding's upper (lore, where I tookup my quarters for feveral weeks.On our arrival at the upper (lore, we found itoccupied by a white trader, who had for a companiona very handfome Siminole young womian. Herfather, who was a prince, by the name of the WhiteV7as an old chief of the Siminoles, and withCaptain,part of his family, to the number of ten or tv/elve,was encamped in an orange grove near the ftores,having lately come in from a hunt.This white trader, foon after our arrival, deliveredup the goods and ftore-houfes to my companion,and joined his father-in-law's camp, and foonafter went away into the forefts on hunting and tradingamongft the flying camps of Siminoles.He is at this time unhappy in his connexions withhis btautiful favagc. It is but a few years fince hecame here, I think from North Carolina, a (loutgenteel well-bred man, a6live, and of a heroic andamiable difpofidon ; and by his indudry, honedy,and engaging manners, had gained the a(Feclions ofthe Indians, and foon made a littlefortune by trafncwith

noTRAVELS INwith the Siminoles : when unfortunately meetingwith this little charmer, they were married in theIndian manner. He loves her fincerely, as fhe poffeflesevery perfeftion in her perfon to render a mamhappy. Her features are beautiful, and mannerseno-aging. Innocence, modefty, and love, appearto a ftranger in every adlion and movement; andthefe powerful graces fhe has fo artfully played uponher beguiled and vanquifhed lover, and unhappyflave, as to have already drained him of a]lhis poffefllons,which fhe dilhoneflly d'.flributes amongil:her favage relations. He is now poor, emaciated,and half diftrafted, often threatening to fhoot her,and afterwards put an end to his own life ; yet he hasnot refolution even to leave her; but now endeavoursto drown and forget his fbrrows in deepdraughts of brandy. Her father condemns her difhoneiland cruel condud.Thefe particulars were relatedto m.e by my oldfriend the trader, direftly after a long conferencewhich he had with the White Captain on the fubje6b,his fon in-law being prefent. The fcene wasaffecting ; they both Ihed tears plentifully. Myreafons for mentioning this affair, lb foreign to mybufinefs, was to exbibit an inftance of the power ofbeauty in a favage, and her art and finelTe in improvingit to her private ends. It is, however,but doing juflice to the virtue and moral conduft ofthe Siminoles, and American aborigines in general,to obferve, that the chara6ler of this woman iscondemned and deiefted by her own people of bothfexcs ; and if her hufband fliould turn her away,according to the cuftoms and ufages of thefe people,fne would not get a hufnand again, as a divorcefeldom takes place but in confequence of a deliberate

:;NORTH AMERICA.Illrate impartial trial, and public condemnation, andthen Ihe would be looked upon as a harlot.Such is the virtue of thefe untutored favagesbut I am afraid this is a common-phrafe epithet,having no meaning, or at lead improperly appliedfor thefe people are both well-tutored and civil ; andit is apparent to an impartial obferver, who refidesbut a little time amongft them, that it is from themoft delicate fenfe of the honour and reputation oftheir tribes and fimilies, that their laws and cuftomsreceive their force and energy. This is the divineprinciple which influences their moral conduct, andIblely preferveg their conftitution and civil governmentin that purity in which they are found to prevailamonsH them.CHAP.

;IllTRAVELS INBeing defiroiisCHAP. V.of continuing my travels and obfervationshigher up the river, and having an invitationfrom a gentleman who was agent for, andrefident at, a large plantation, the property of anEnglifh gentleman, about fixty miles higher up, Irefolved to purfue my refearches to that place ; andhaving engaged in my fervice a young Indian, nephewto the white captain, he agreed to afiift mein working my veflel up as high as a certain bluff,-where I was, by agreem.ent, to land him, on theWeft or Indian Ihore, whence he defigned to go inqueft of the camp of the White Trader, his relation.Provifions and all neceflaries being procured,and the morning pieafant, we went on board andftood up the river. We pafled for feveral miles onthe left, by iflands of high fwamp land, exceedinglyfertile, their banks for a good diftance from the water,much higher than the interior part, and fufficientlylb to build upon, and be out of thereach ofinundations. They confift of a loofe black mould,widi a mixture of fand, fhells, and dilTolved vegetables.The oppofite Indian coaft is a perpendicularbluff, ten or twelve feet higli, confifting of a;black fandy earth, mixed with a large proportion offhells, chiefly various fpecies of frefii water cochleseand mytuli. Near the river, on this high ihore,grew corypha pa] ma, magnolia grandiflora, liveoak, callicarpa, myrica cerifera, hibiicus fpinifex,and the beautiful evergreen llirub called v.'ild hmeor tallow nuc. This lall Hirub growb fix or eightfeet high, many ered ftems fpring from a rootthe

NORTH AMERICA.lljthe leaves are lanceolate and entire, two or threeinches in length and one in breaddi, of a deep greencolour, and polillied ; at the foot of each leaf growsa ftiff fharp thorn ; the flowers are fmall and inclufters, of a greenifh yellow colour, and fweetfcented ; they are fucceeded by a large oval fruit,of the fhape and fize of an ordinary plumb, of afine yellow colour when ripe ;a ibft fweet pulp coversa nut which has a thin fliell, enclofing a whitekernel fomewhat of the confidence and tafte of thef.veet almond, but more oily and very much Hkehard tallow, which induced my father, when he firftobferved it, to call it the tallow-nut.At the upper end of this bluff is a fine orangegrove. Here my Indian companion requefted meto fet him on fliore, being already tired of rowingunder a fervid fun, and having for fome time intimateda diflike to his fituation. I readily compliedwith his defire, knowing the impoflibility of compeUingan Indian againft his ov/n inclinations, oreven prevailing upon him by reafonable arguments^when labour is in the queftion. Before my veflelreached the fhore, he fprang out of her and landed,when uttering a flirill and terrible whoop, he boundedoff like a roebuck, and I loft fight of him,I at firft apprehended, that as he took his gun withhim, he intended to hunt tor fome game and returnto me in the evening. The day being exceffivelyhot and fultry, I concluded to take up my quartershere undl next morning.The Irtdian not returning this morning, I fat failalone. The coafts on eacli fide had much the lameappearance as already defcribed. The palm-treeshere feem to be of a different fpecies from the cabbagetreej their ftraight trunks are fixty, eighty, or ninetyIfcec

114 TRAVELS 11^feet high, with a beautiful taper, of a bright afh colour,until within fix or feven feet of the top, whereit is a fine green colour, crowned with an orb ofrich green plumed leaves : I have meafured the ftemof thefe plumes fifteen feet in length, befides theplume, which is nearly of the fame length.The little lake, which is an expanfion of the river,nov/ appeared in view ; on the eaft fide are ex--teiifive marihes, and on the other high forefls andorange groves, and then a bay, lined with vaft cyprefsfwamps, both coafts gradually approachingeach other, to the opening of the river again, whichis in this place about three hundred yards wide. Eveningnowdrawing on, I was anxious to reach fome highbank of the river, where I intended to lodge j andagreeably to my wifhes, I foon after difcovered, onthe wefl: fiiore, a little promontory, at the turningof the river,, contrafting it here to about one hundredand fifty yards in width. This promontory isa peninfula, containing about three acres of highground, and is one entire orange grove, with a fewlive oaks, magnolias, and palms. Upon doublingthe point, I arrived at the landing, which is a circularharbour, at the foot of the blufi"^, the top ofwhich is about twelve feet high ; the back of it isa large cyprefs fwamp, that fpreads each vay, theright wing forming the weft coaft of the littlelake,and the left ftretching up the river many miles, andcncompaffing a vaft fpace of lov/gralTy marfiies. Fromthis promontory, looking eaftward acrofs the river,I behcLl a landfcape of low country, unparalleledas I think ; en the left is the eaft coaft of the littlelake, wliich I had juft pafted i and from t!ie orangebluir at the lower end, the high forefts begin, andiacreale in breadth from the Ihore of tlie lake, mak-6 in"'

NORTH AMERICA.JtKing a circular fweep to the riglit, and containmany hundred thoufand acres of meadow ; and thisgrand fweep of high forefts encircles, as I apprehend,at lead twenty miles of thefe green fields,interfperfed with hommocks or iflets of evergreentrees, where the fovereign magnolia and lordlypalm (land confpicuous. The iflets are high fnellyknolls, on the fides of creeks or branches of theriver, which wind about and dr.un off the fuperabundantwaters that cover thefe meadows duringthe winter feafon.The evening was temperately cool and calm.The crocodiles began to roar and appear in uncommonnumbers along the fhores and in the river. Ifixed my camp in an open plain, near the utmoftprojeftion of the promontory, under the flielter ofa large live oak, which flood on the higheft partof the ground, and bu: a few yards from my boat.From this open, high fituation, I had a free profped:of the river, which was a matter of no trivialconfideration to me, having good reaibn to dreadthe fubde attacks of the alligators, who were crowdingabout my harbour. Having coile6lcd a goodquantity of wood for the piirpof: of keeping up alight and fmoke during the night, I began to cntnkof preparing my fupper, when, upon examining myflores, I found but a fcanty provifion. I thereupoadetermined, as the moft expeditious way of fupply-.ing my necefTides, to take my bob and try for fometrout. About one hundred yards ab.'^v^e my harbourbegan a cove or bay of the livcr, oul uf whichopened a large lagoon. The mouth or entrancefrom the river to it was narrow, but the watersfoon after fpread and formed a little lake, extendinginto the marlhes:its entrance and fuores withinI 2 I obfcrvccl

11^TRAVELS IffI obferved to be verged with floating lawns of thepiflia and nymphea and other aquatic plants ;I knew were excellent haunts for trout.thefcThe verges and ifFets of the lagoon were elegantlyembelliflied with flo'.vering plants and fhrubsjthe laughing coots with wings half fpread were trippingover, the little coves, and hiding themfelves inthe tufts of grafs ; young broods of the paintedfummer teal, fkimming the flill furface of the waters,and following the watchful parent unconicious ofdanger, were frequendy furprifed by the voracioustrout ; and he, in turn, as often by the fubtlegreedy alligator. Behold him rufliing forth fromthe flags and reeds. His enormous body fwells»His plaited tail brandiilied high, floats upon thelake. The waters like a catarad defcend from hisopening jaws. Clouds of fmoke ifTue from his dilatednoftrils. The earth trembles with his thunder.When immediately from the oppofite coaft of thelagoon, emerges from the deep his rival champion.They fuddenly dart upon each other. The boilingfurface of the lake marks their rapid courfe, anda terrific conflict commences. They now fmk tothe bottom folded together indiorrid wreaths. Thewater becomes thick and difcoioured. Again theyrife, their jaws clap together, re-echoing throughthe deep furrounding forefts. Again they fink, whenthe conteft ends at the muddy bottom of the lake,and the vanquifhed makes a hazardous efcape, hidinghimfelf in the muddy turbulent waters and fedgeon a diftant fliore. The proud vi6tor exulting returnsto the place of aftion. Tiie fhores and foreihrefound ifis dreadful roar, together with the triumphingfhouts of the plaited tribes around, witnefltrsof the horrid combat.My

•NORTH AMERICA. II7My apprehenfions were highly alarmedafter beino-a fpecftator of fo dreadful a batde. It was obviousthat every delay would but tend to increafemy dangers and difficulties, as the fun was nearfctting, and the alligators gathered around my harbourfrom all quarters. From thele confideration?I conclude-d to be expedidous in my trip to the lagoon,in order to take fome filh. Not thinking itprudent to take my fufee with me, left I mightlofe it overboard in cafe of a battle, which I hadevery reafon to dread before my return, I thereforefurniflied myfelf with a club for my defence, wenton board, and penetrating the firft line of thofewhich furrounded my harbour, they gave way ; butbeing purfued by feveral very large ones, I keptftritftly on the watch, and paddled with all my mighttowards the entrance of the lagoon, hoping to beflieltered there from the multitude of my afiailancs;but ere I had half-way reached the place, I was attackedon all fides, ieveral endeavouring to overl'etthe canoe. My fituation now became precarious tothe laft degree : two very large ones attacked meclofely, at the fame inltant, rufhing up v/ith their headsand part of their bodies above the water, roaringterribly and belching floods of water oyer me. Theyftruck their jaws together fo clofe to my ears, asalmoft to ftun nrte,and I expedled every moment tobe dragged,out of the boar and inftantly devoured.But I applied my weapoiis fo €ffe6lually about me,though at random, that I was fo fucccfsful as tobeat them off a little j when, finding that they defignedto r£new the battle, I made for the fliore,as the only means left me for my prefervation ; for,by keeping clofe to it, I fliould have my enem.ies onone fide of me only, whereas I was before furroundedby them j and there was a probability, if pulhed} 3 ?Q

;llSTRAVELS INto the bd extremity, of faving myfelf, by jumpingout of the canoe on fhore, as it is eafy to outwalkthem on land, akb.ough comparatively as fwift aslightning in che water. I found this lafb expedientalone couid fully anfwer my expe6tations, for asfoon as I gained the flicre, they drew off and keptaloof. This was a hr.ppy relief, as my confidencewas, in fome degree, recovered by it. On recolledingmyfelf, 1 difcovered that I had almoft reachedthe entrance of the lagoon, and determined toventure in, if pofTible, to take a few fifh, and thenreturn to my harbour, while day-light continuedf^r 1 could now, witn caution and refolution, makemy way with fafety along fhore j and indeed therewas no other way to regain my camp, without leavingray boat and making my retreat through themarfiics and reeds, which, if I could even efFeft,would have been in a manner throwing myfelfaway, for then there would have been no hopes ofever recovering my bark, and returning in fafetyto any fettlements of men. I accordingly proceeded,and made good my entrance into the lagoon,though not without oppofition from the alligators,who formed a line acrofs the entrance, but did notpurfue me into it, nor was I molefted by any there,though there were fome very large ones in a coveat the upper end. I foon caught more trout thanI had prelent occafion for, and the air was too hotand fukry to admit of their being kept for manyhours, even thv^ugh faked or barbecued. I nowprepared f;T n^y return to camp, which I fucceededin with but l\[t!e trouble, by keeping dole tothe Ihore ; yet I was oppofed upon re-entering theriver out ot the lagoon, and purfued near to mylaiKiiri^ ('hou^rh not cL>fely attacked), particularlyby an old daiing one, about twelve feet in length,who

NORTH AMERICA.II9who kept clofe after me ; and when I ftepped onihore and turned about, in order to draw up mycanoe, he ruflied up near my feet, and lay there forfeme time, looking me in the face, his head andflioulders out of water. I refolved he fliould payfor his temerity, and having a heavy load in my fufee,Iran to my camp, and returning with my piece,found him with his foot on the gunwale of tlie boat,in fearch of fifh.On my coming up he withdrewfullenly and (lowly into the water, but foon returnedand placed himfelf in his former pofition, lookingat me, and feeming neither fearful nor any waydifturbed. I foon difpatched him by lodging thecontents of my gun in his head, and then proceededto cleanfe and prepare m.y fifh for fupper ; andaccordingly took them out of the boat, laid themdown on the fand clofe to the water, and began tofcale them ; when, raifing my head, I faw beforeme, through the clear water, the head and fhouidersof a very large alligator, moving (lowly towardsm.e. I inflantly ilepped back, when, v/ith a fweepof his tail, he brufhed off feverai of my fifh. Itwas certainly moil providential that I looked up atthat inilant, as the monfbcr would probably, in lefsthan a minute, have feized and dragged me into theriver. This incredible boldr.efs of the aninial dilturbedm.e greatly, fuppofmg there could now be n,oreaibnable fafcty for me during the night, but bykeeping continually on the watch : I therefore, asfoon as 1 had prepared the filh, proceeded to fecurem.yfelf and effefts in the beft manner I could.In the firft place, I hauled my bark upon thefliore, almoft clear out of the water, to preventtheir overfetting or finking her ; after this, evrrymoveable was taken out and carried to my camp,I 4 which

I20TRAVELS INwhich was but a few yards off j then ranging fomedry wood in fuch order as was the moft convenient,I cleared the ground round about ir, that there mightbe no impediment in my way, in cafe of an attackin the night, either from the water or the land j forI difcovered by this time, that this fmall ifthmus,from its remote fituation and fruitfulnefs, was refortedto by bears and wolves. Having preparedmyfelf in the beft manner I could, I charged mygun, and proceeded to reconnoitre my camp and theadjacent grounds j when I difcovered that the peninfulaand grove, at die diftance of about two hundredyards from my encampment, on the land fide,were invefted by a cyprefs fwamp, covered withwater, which below was joined to the fhore of thelittle lake, and above to the marfhes furrounding thelagoon; fo that I was confined to an iflet exceedinglycircumfcribed, and I found there was no otherretreat for m.e, in cafe of an attack, but by eitherafcending one of the large oaks, or pufhing offwith my boat.It was by this time dufk, and the alligators hadnearly ctafed their roar, when I was again alarmedby a tumultuous noife that fecmed to be in myharbour, and therefore engaged my immediate attendon.Returning to my camp, I found it undifturbed,and then continued on to the extreme pointof the promontory, where I faw a fcene, new andfurprifing, which at firft threw my fenfes into fucha tumuh, that it was fome time before I could comprehendwhat was the matter; however, I foonaccounted for the prodigious affemblage of crocodilesat this place, which exceeded every thing ofthe kind I had ever heard of.How fliall I exprefs myfelf fo as to convey anadequate

•beenNORTH AMERICA. 121adequate idea of it to the reader, and at the fametime avoid raifing fuipicions of my veracity ? ShouldI fay, that the river (in this place) from fhore tofhore, and perhaps near half a mile above and belowme, appeared to be one folid bank of fifli, ofvarious kinds, pufning through this narrow pafsof St. Juan's into the little lake, on their return,down the river, and that the alligators were in fuchincredible numbers, and fo clofe together from fhoreto fhore, that it would have been eafy to havev/alked acrofs on their heads, had the animalsharmlefs ? What exprefTions can fufficientlydeclare the fhocking fcene that for fome minutescontinued, whilft this mighty army of fifli were forcingthe pafs ? During this attempt, thoufands, Imay fay hundreds of thoufands, of them were caughtand fwallowed by the devouring alligators. I hav^efeen an alligator take up out of the water feveralgreat fifli at a time, and jull fqueeze them betwixthis jaws, while the tails of the great trout flappedabout his eyes and lips, ere he had fwallowed them.The horrid noife of their clofing jaws, their plungingamidft the broken banks of fifli, and rifingwith their prey fome feet upright above the v/ater,the floods of water and blood rufhing out of theirmouths, and the clouds of vapour ilTuing from theirwide nofliils, were truly frightful. This fcene continuedat intervals during the night, as the fiflicam.e to the pafs. After this fight, fiiocking andtremendous as it was, I found myfelf fomewliat eafierand more reconciled to miy fituation ; beingconvinced that their extraordinary aflemblage herewas owing to this annual feafl: of fifli ; and th?.tthey were fo well employed in their own element,that I had little occafion to fear their payijig me avifit.It

122 TRAVELS INIt being now almoft night, I returned to mycamp, where I had left my fiHi broiling, and mykettle of rice Hewing j and having v/ith me oiJ,pepper, and fait, and excellent oranges hanging inabundance over m.y head (a valuable fubftitute forvinegar) I fit down and regaled myfelf cheerfully.Having finifned m.y repail, 1 rekindled my fire forlight, and whilft I was reviling the notes of my paflday's journey, I was fuddenly roufed with a noifebehind me toward the main land. I iprang up onjny feet, and liftening, I didinftiy heard fome creaturewading in the water of the iili:;PAis. I feizcdmy gun and went caudoufly fl-om my camip,direftingmy fteps towards the noife : when I had advancedabout thirty yards, I halted behind a coppiceof orange trees, and foon perceived two verylarge bears, which had m.ade their way throi.a'.i thewater, and liad landed in the grove, about one hundredyards diftance from me, and were advancingtowards me. I waited until they v/ere within thirtyyards of me :they there began to fnuffand look towardsmy camp : I fnapped my piece, but it flaflied,on which they both turned about and galloped oif>plunging through the water and fwamp, never halting,as I fuppofe, until they reached fait land, as Icould hear them leaping and plunging a long time.They did not piefumc to return again, nor was Imolefted by, any other creature, except being occafionallyawakened by the whooping of owls, fcreamingof bitterns, or the wood-rats running amongfl:the leaves.I'hc wood-rat is a very curious animal. It Isnot half the fize of the domeftic rat ; of a dark brownor black colour j its tail llender and Jhorter inpropoiticn, and covered thinly with fl:ort hair.It

NORTH AMERICA. 12^.It is fingular with rerpe(5t to its ingenuity andgreat labour in the conftruftion of its habitation,which is a conical pyramid about three or four feethigh, conftruv^led with dry branches, which it colleftswith great labour and perfeverance, and piles upwithout any apparent order ; yet they are fo interwovenwith one another, that it would take a bearor wild-cat fome time to pull one of thefe caftlestopieces, and allow the animals fufficient time to fecurea retreat with their young.The noife of thecrocodiles kept me awake thegreater part of the night ; but when I arofe in themorning, contrary to my expedlations, there wasperfeft peace j very few of them to be feen, andthofe were afleep on the fliore. Yet I was not ableto fupprefs my fears and apprehenfions of being attackedby them in future ; and indeed yefterday'scombat with them, notwithftanding I came off in amanner vidorious, or at leaft made a fafe retreat,had left fufficient imprefllon on my mind to dampmy courage; and it feemed too much for one ofmy ftrength, being alone in a very fmall boat, toencounter fuch collected danger. To purfue myvoyage up the river, and be obliged every eveningto pafs fuch dangerous defiles, appeared to meas perii(Ais as running the gauntlet betwixt tv.o rov/sof Indians armed with knives and firebrands, ihowever refolved to continue my voyage one daylonger, if I pofnbly could wirh fafety, and then returndown the river, fnould I find the like difficultiesto oppofe. Accordingly 1 got every thing onboard, charged my gun, and kt fail, cautiouHy,along ffiore. As I paffed by Battle lagocn, I b':'ganto tremble and keep a good look-out j when fuddenlya huge alligator rulhed out of the reeds, andwith

124 TRAVELS INv;ith a tremendous roar came up, and darted asfwift as an arrow under my boat, emerging uprighton my lee quarter, with open jaws, and belching•water and fmoke that fell upon me like rain in ahurricane. I laid foundly about his head with myclub, and beat him off; and after plunging and dartingabout my boat, he went off on a ftraight linethrough the water, feemingly with the rapidity oflightning, and entered the cape of the lagoon. Inow employed my time to the very beil advantagein paddling ciofe along friore,but could not forbearlooking now and then behind me, and prefentlyperceived one of them coming up again. The waterof the river hereabouts was fhoaland very clear ;the monfter came up with the ufual roar and menaces,and palled clofe by the fide of my boat,when I could diftin6lly fee a young brood of alligators,to the number of one hundred or miOre, followingafter her in a long tiain. They kept clofetogether in a column, without ftraggling off to theone fide or the other ; the young appeared to be ofan equal fize, about fifteen inches in length, almoftblack, with pale yellow tranfverfe waved clouds orblotches, much like rattlefnakes in colour. I nowloft fight of my enemy again.Still keeping clofe along fhore, on turning apoint or proje6lion of the river bank, at once I behelda great number of hillocks or Imall pyramids,refembling hay-cocks, ranged like an encampmentalong the banks. They ilood fifteen or twenty yardsdidant from the v/ater, on a high marfh, about fourfeet perpendicular above the water. I knew themto be the nefts of the crocodile, having had a defcriptionof them before; and now expeded a furiousand general att?ick, as 1 faw feveral large crocodiles

NORTH AMERICA,codiles fwlmming abreaft of tliefe buildings.11^Thefenefts being fo gieat a curiofity to me, I was determinedat all events immediately to land and examinethem. Accordingly, I ran my bark on fhoreat one of their landing-places, v^hich was a fort ofnick or little dock, from which afcended a flopingpath or road up to the edge of the meadow, v/hcretheir nefts were ; moft of them were deferted, andthe great thick whicifn egg-fliells lay broken andfcattered upon the ground round about them.The nefts or hillocks are of the form of an obxufecone, four feet high and four or five feet in diameterat their bafcs ithey are conftruflcd with mud,grafs and herbage. At firft they lay a floor of th.s.kind of tempered mortar on the ground, upon whichthey depofit a layer of eggs, and upon this a flratumof mortar, feven or eiglit inches in thicknefs,and then another layer of eggs ; and in this mannerone ftratum upon another, nearly to the top. I believethey commonly lay from one to two- hundredeggs in a nefb: thefe are hatched, I fuppofe, by theheat of the fun ; and perhaps the vegetable fubftancesmixed with the earth, being acted upon by thefun, may caufe a fmall degree of fermentation, andfo increafe the heat in rhofe hillocks. The groundfor feveral acres about thefe nefts fliewed evidentmarks of a continual refort of alligators ; the orafswas every where beaten down, hardly a blade orftrav/ was left (landing ; whereas, all about, at adillance, it v/as five or fix feet high, and as thickas it could grow together. The female, as I imagine,carefully watches her own neft of egcrs untilthey are all hatched ; or perhaps while flie i^ attendingher own brood, fne takes under her care andprotedlion as many as flic can get at one time, either

i2l5 TRAVELS Ittther from her own particular neft or others : butcertain it is, that the young are not left to fhift fortheinfclves; for I have had frequent opportunities offeeing the female alligator leading about the fhoresher train of young ones, jufl as a hen does herbrood of chickens j and fhe is equally affiduous andcourageous in defending the young, which are underher care, and providing for their fubfiftence ;and when £he is bafking upon the warm banks, withher brood around her, yt;u may hear the young onescontinually whining and barking like young puppies.I believe but few of a brood live to the yearsof full growth and magnitude, as the old feed onthe young as long as they can make prey of them.The alligator when full grov/n is a very largeand terrible creature, and of prodigious ftrength,aftivity and fvviftnefs in the water. I have ieenthem twenty feet in length, and fom.e are fuppofedto be twenty- two or twenty-three feet. Their bodyis as large as that of a horfe; their fhape exa6llyrefembles that of a lizard, except their tail,which is flat or cuneiform, being comprefled on eachfide, and gradually diminifhing from the abdomento the extremity, which, with the v/hole body iscovered with horny plates or fquamms, impenetrablewhen on the body of the live anim^al, eveato a riEe ball, except about their head and jufb behindtheir fore-legs or arms, where it is faid theyare only vulnerable. The head of a full grown oneis about three feet, and the mouth opens nearly thefame length ; their eyes are fmali in proportion, andfecm funk deep in the head, by means of the prominencyof the brows ; the noftrils are large, inflatedand prominent on the top, fo that the headin the water refembles, at a diftance, a greatchunk

chunk of wood floating about.JiORTH AMERICA. llyOnly the upper jawmoves, which they raife ahnoft perpendicular, foas to form a right angle with the lower one. Inthe fore-part of the upper jaw, on each fide, jullunder die noftrils, are two very large, thick, fcrongteeth or tulks, not very lliarp, but rather the (liapeof a cone : thefe are as white as the fineft polirtiedivory, and are not covered by any (kin or lips, andalways in fight, which gives the creature a frightfulappearance : in the lower jaw are holes oppofiteto thefe teeth, to receive them : when they claptheir jaws together it caufes a furprifing noife, likethat which is made by forcing a heavy plank withviolence upon the ground, and may be heard at agreat diftance.But what is yet more furprifing to a flranger, isthe incredible loud and terrifying roar, v/hich theyare capable of making, efpecially in the fpring feafon,their breeding time. It mod refembles vtrjheavy diftant thunder, not only Ihaking the air andwaters, but caufiiig the earth to tremble ; and whenhundreds and thouf-.nds are roaring at the fame time,you can fcarceiy be periuadcd, but that the wholeglobe isviolently and dangercufly agitated.An old champi'jn, who is perhaps abfolute {ovsreignof a little lake or lagoon (when fifty lefs thanhimfelf are obliged to content themfelves with fwellingand roaring in little coves round about) darLsforth from the reedy cov^erts all at once, on tho.furface of the waters, in a right line -, at firft feemjnglyas rapid as lightning, but gradually more fiowiyuntil he arrives at the centre of the lake, when heiiops. He now fwells himfelf by drawing in windand water through his mouth, which caufes a loudfo.norous

128 TRAVELS IWfonorous rattling in the throat for near a minut(^,but it is imniediately forced out again through hismouth and noftrils, with a loud noife, brandifhinghis tailin the air, and the vapour afcending from hisnoftrils like fmoke. At other times, when fwollento an extent ready to burft, his head and tail liftedup, he fpins or twirls round on the furface of thewaten He afts his part like an Indian chief whenrehearfing his feats of war j and then retiring, theexhibition is continued by others who dare to ftepforth, and ftrive to excel each other, to gain theattention of the favourite female.Having gratified my curiofity at this general breeding-placeand nurfery of crocodiles, I continuedmy voyage up the river without being greatly dlfturbedby them. In my way 1 obferved iflets or floatingfields of the bright green Piftia, decorated withother amphibious plants, as Senecio Jacobea, Perficariaamphibia, Coreopfis bidens, Hydrocotyle fluitans,and many others of lefsnote.The fwamps on the banks and illands of the riverare generally three or four feet above the furfaceof the water, and very level ; the timber large andgrowing thinly, more lb than what is obferved to bein the fwamps below lake George ; the black richearth is covered with m.oderateiy tall, and very fucculenttender grafs, which when chewed is fweet andagreeable to the tafte, fomewhat like young fugarcane: it is a jointed decumbent grafs, fending outradicul^ at the joints into the earth, and ih fpreadsitfclf, by creeping over its furface.The large tim.ber trees, which pofTefs the low lands,are Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Ac. glaucum,UlmL'sfylvatica, Fraxinus exceUior, Frax, aquatica, Ulmusfuberifer.

NORTH AMERICA. I 29fubeiifer, Glcditfia monofperma, Gledit. trlacanthus,Diofpyros Virginica, Nyffa aqiiatica, NyflaTylvatica, Juglans cinerea, Qiiercus dentata, Qiiercusphillos, Hopea tinftoria, Corypha palma, Momsrubra, and many more. The palm grows on theedges of the banks, where they are raifed hig.her thanthe adjacent level ground, by the accumulation offand, river-lhells, &c. I palled along feveral milesby thofe rich fwamps : the channels of the riverwhich encircle the feveral fertile iflands 1 hadpafTed, now uniting, formed one deep channel nearthree hundred yards over. The banks of the riveron each fide bsgan to rile, and prefent fhellybluffs, adorned by beautiful Orange groves. Laurelsand Live Oaks. And now appeared in fight atree that claimed my whole attention: it was theCarica papaya, both male and female, which v/erein flower , and the latter both in flower and fruit,fome of which were ripe, as large, and^of the form,of a pear, and of a moft charming appearance.This admirable tree is certainly the moft beautifulof any vegetable production I know of j thetowering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm, indeedexceed it in grandeur and magnificence, butnot in elegance, delicacy, and gracefulnefs. It rifeserecl to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, with aperfedly ftraight tapering fiiem, v/hich is fmooth andpolilhed, of a bright afh colour, refemxbling leaffilver,curioufly infcribed with the footfteps of the falknleaves; aiid thele veftiges are placed in a very regularuniform imbricated order, which has a fineefl^eCl, as if the little column were elegantly carvedall over. Its perfectly fphcricai top is tormed ofvery large lobe-finuate leaves, fupported on verylongfootftalks ; the lower leaves are the largeitas well as their petioles the longeft, and makeKa graceful

IJO TRAVELS INa graceful fweep or flourifh, like the long J^ orthe branches of a fconcs candlefllck. The ripeand green fruit are placed round about the ftem ortrunk, from the lowermoft leaves, where the ripefruit are, and upwards almoft to the top ; the heartor inmofl: pithy part of the trunk is in a manner hol-Jow, or at bell confifts of very thin porous medullaor membranes. Tiie tree very feldom branches ordivides into limbs, I believe never imlefs the top isby accident broke off when very young: I law onewhich had two tops or heads, the ftem of which dividednear the earth. It is always green, ornamentedat the fame time with flowers and fruit,which like figs come out fingly from the trunk orflem.After refllng and refrediing myfelf in thefe delightfulfnades, I left them with reluftance. Embarkino^a^ain after the fervid heat of the meridianfun was abated, for feme time I paiTed by brokenridges of llielly high land, covered with grovesof Live Oak, Palm, Olea Americana, and Orangetrees j frequently obferving floating iOets and greenfields of the Piliia near the llicres of the river andlagoons.Here is in this river, and in the waters all overFlorida, a very curious and handfome fpecies of birds,the people call them Snake Birds ; 1 think I havefeen paintings of them on the Chinefe fcreens andother India piftures : they feem to be a fpeciesof cormorant or loon (Colymbus cauda elongata),but far more beautiful and delicately formtdthan any other fpecies that I have ever feen. Thehead and neck of this bird are extremely fmall andflender, the latter very long indeed, almoft out ofall proportion i the bill long, llraight, and flen Icr,tapering

;NORTH AMERICA.I3Itapering from its ball to a fh srp point ; all the upperfide, the abdomen and thighs, are uS black rndglonV as a raven's, covered with feathers fo rrm '^ndclailic, that they infonae degree refemble fifli-fcaiesthe bread and upper part of the belly are coveredwith feathets of a cream colour 3 the tall is verylong, of a deep black, and tipped uidi a fib. erywhite, and when fpread, reprc-fents an unfurled fan»They delik^ht to fit in little peaceable com rr. unities,on the drv limbs ^^f fees, hanging over the flill waters,with their wings and tails expanded, I fuppofe tocool and air thcinfelveS) when at the i\vve time theybehold their images in the watery mii ;our. At fuchtimes, when we approach them- they drop off thelimbs into die warer as if dead, and for a minute ortwo are not to bi: fe^n ; when on a f.idden, at avaft diftan:e, their long D.ender head and neckonly appear, and have very m.uch the appearanceof a fnake, and no other part of them is to befcen when f. imming in the water, except fometimesthe tip end of the tail. In the heat of theday they are feen in great num.bers, failing veryhigh in the air, over lakes and rivers.I doubt not but if this bird had been an inhabitantof the Tiber in Ovid's days, it would havefurniihed him with a fubje6l for fome beautifuland entertaining metamorphofes. I believe itfeeds intirely on fifh, for its fiefh fmells and tafliesintolerably ftrong of it ; it is fcarcely to be eaten,unlefs conftrained by infufferable hunger.I had nov/ fwamps and marines on both fides ofme ; and evening coming on apace, I began to lookout for high land to encamp on ; but the extenfivemarfhcs feemed to have no bounds, and it was almolldark when I found a tolerably fuitable place,K 2and

132 tRAVELS mand at lall was confrrained to take up with a narrow{trip of high fiielly bank, on the weft fide. Greatnumbers of crocodiles were in fight on both fhores.I ran my bark on faore at a perpendicular bank fouror five feet above the water, jull by the roots andunder the fpreading limbs of a great Live Oak : thisappeared to have been an ancient camping place byIndians and ftroUing adventurers, from afh heapsand old rotten fire-brands and chunks, fcatteredabout on the furface of the ground ; but was nowevidently the harbour and landing-place of fomefovereign alligator : there led up from it a deepbeaten path or road, which v;as a convenient afcent.Idid not approve of my intended habitation fromthefe circumllances ; and no fooner had I landedand moored my canoe to the roots of the tree, than1 faw a huge crocodile rifing up from the bottomclofe by me, who, when he perceived that 1 fawhim, plunged down again under my veiTel. Thisdetermined me to be on my guard, and in time toprovide againft a troublefome night. I took out ofm.y boat every moveable, which I carried upon thebankj then chofe my lodging clofe to my canoe,under the fpreading Oak, as hereabouts only, theground was open and clear of high grafs and bufhes,and confequently I had fome room to ftir and lookround about. I then proceeded to colledl fi.rewood,which I found difficult to procure, i Tere were ftandinga few Orange trees. As for provifions, I hadfaved one or tv.o barbecued trout, the remains ofmy laft evening's colletlion, in tolerable good order,though the fultry heats of the day had injured them;yet by ftewing them up afrefli v/ith the lively juiceof Oranges, they ferved well enough for my fupper,as I had by this time but little relilli or appetite

NORTH AMERICA. 1-^3tite for my viduals -, for condant watching at nightagainft the attacks of alligr.tors, flinging of mufquitoesand fukry heats of the day, together withthe fatigues of working my bark, had ahiioft deprivedme of every defire but that of ending mytroubles as fpeedily as poflible. I liad the good fortuneto collect together a fufficiency of dry flicksto keep up a light and fmoke, which I laid by mie,and then fpread my fkins and blankets upon theground, kindlc'i up a little fire, and fupped beforeit was quite dark. The evening \vas however extremelypieafant ; a briflv cool breeze fprang up, andthe fkies were perfeftly ferene, the liars twinklingwith uncommon brilliancy. I ftreiched myfelf a-long before my fire ; having the river, my litdeharbour, and the flern of my velTel in view ; and nowthrough fatigue and wearinefs I fell afleep. Butthis happy temporary reieafe from cares and troublesI enjoyed but a few moments, when I wasawakened and greatly furprifcd, by the terrifyingfcrearns of Owls in the deep fwamps around nie jand what increafed my extreme mifery was the difficultyof getting quite awake, and yet hearing atthe fame time fuch fcreaming and iliouting, whichincreafed and fpread every way for miles around, indreadful peals vibrating through the dark extenfiveforefts, meadov.s, and lakes.I could not after this furpriferecover my former peaceable flate and tranquillityof mind and repofe, during the long night; and Ibelieve it was happy for me that 1 was awakened,for at that moment the crocodile was darni;:ig mycanoe againft the roots of the tree, cndcavourin

;134 TRAVELS INafleep, but was again awakened by the fcreamingcwl, I found the monfter on the top of the bank,his head towards me, not above two yards diftantand feizing my fufee well loaded,when ftarting up,which I always kept under my head in the nighttime, he drew back and plunged into the water.After this, I roufed up my fire, and kept a lightduring the remaining part of the night, being determinednot to be caught napping fo again : indeed chemufquitoes alone would have been abundantly fufficientto keep any creature awake that pofTeliedtheir perfe6t fenfes ; but I was overconie and ftupifiedv/ith inceflant watching and labour. As foonas I difcovered the firft figns of day-light, I arofe,got all my effefts and implements on board, and fezfail, proceeding upwards, hoping to give the mufquitoesthe flip, who were now, by the cool morningdews and breezes, driven to their fhelrer and hidingplaces. I was miftaken however in thefe conjectures,for great numbers of them, which had concealedthemfclves in my boat, as foon as the funarofe, beg^n to revive, and fling me on my legs,which oi. liged me to land in order to get bulhes to.beat the,:; out of their quarters.It is very pleafmg to obferve the banks of theriver, ornamented with hanging garlands, compofedof variedes of climbing vegetables, bothfhrubs and plants., forming perpendicular greenwalls, with projecting jambs, piiafters, and deepapartments, twenty or thirty feet high, and completelycovered witli Glycine frutefcens, Glyc. apios,Vitlslabrufca, Vids vulpina, Rajana, Hedera quinquifoha,Hedera arborea, Eupatorium fcandens,Bignonia crucigera, and various fpecies of Convolvulus,particularly an amazing tali climber of thisgenus^

;NORTH AMERICA.I^^©•cniis, or perhaps an Ipomca. This has a verylarge white flower, as big as a Imall funnel ; its tubeis five or fix inches in length, and not thicker thana pipe ftem ; the leaves are alfo very large, oblong,and cordated, fometimes dentated or angled, nearthe infertion of the foot-ftalk ; they are of a thintexture, and of a deep green colour. It is exceedinglycurious to behold the Wild Squafh* climbingover the lofty linnbs of the trees ; its yellow fruit,fomewhat of the fize and figure of a large orange,pendant from the extremities of the limbs overthewater.Towards noon, the fultry heats being intolerable,I put into fhore, at a middling high bank, five orlix feet above the furface of the river. This low Tandyteflaceous ridge along the river fide was but narrowthe furface light, black, and exceedingly fertile, producingvery large venerable Live Oaks, Palms, andgrand Magnolias, fcatteringly planted by nature.There being no underv/ood to prevent the play ofthe breezes from the river, it afforded a defirable retreatfrom the fun's heat. Immediately at the back ofthis narrow ridge, were deep wet fwamps, where floodfome aftonifhingly tall and fpreading Cyprefs trees.And now being weary and drowfy, I was induced toindul::;e ^and iilten to the didlates of reafon andinvitations to repofe ; which confcnting to, afterfecuring my boat and reconnoitring the ground,I fpread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat,on which I extended myfelf, where, falling to fleep, Iinftantaneoufly paflfed away the fultry hours of noon.What a blifsful tranquil repofe ! Undilfurbed I awoke,refreflied and ftrengthened ; I cheerfully ftepped onboard again, and continued to alcend the river. The« Cucurbita peiesiina.K 4afternoon

136 TRAVELS I^afternoon being cool and pleafant, and the treesvery lofty on the higher weftern banks of the river,by keeping near that fhore I pafled under agreeablefhades the remaining part of the day. Duringalnnofl all this day's voyage, the banks of the riveron both fhores were middling high, perpendicular,and waflied by the briflc current : the fhores werenot lined with the green lawns of floating aquatics,and confequently not very commodious reforts orharbours for crocodiles ; I therefore was •not difturbedby them, and faw but few, but thofe werevery large. I however did not like to lodge onthofe narrow ridges, infefted by fuch dreary fwamps ;and evening approaching, 1 began to be anxiousfor high land for a camping place. It was quitedark before I came up to a bluff, which I had inview a long time, over a very extenfive point ofmeadows. I landed however at laft, in the befl mannerI could, at a magnificent foreft of Orangegroves, Oaks, and Palms. I here, with httle labouror difficulty, foon colle6ted a fufficient quantity ofdry wood : there v/as a pleafant vifta of grafs betwixtthe grove and the edge of the river bank,which afforded a very convenient, open, airy encampingplace, under the protection of fome fpreadingOaks.This was a high perpendicular bluff, frontingmore than one hundred yards on the river, the earthblack, loofe, and fertile : it is a compofidon of river-Ihells, land, &c. At the back of it from the river, wereopen Pine foreils and favannas. I met with a circumftancehere, that, with fome, may be reckoned•worthy of mentioning, fince it regards the monumentsof the ancients. As I have already obferved,when I landed it was quite dark j and in colledingW00(^

NORTH AMERICA.I37vood for my fire, (Irolling in the dark about thegroves, I found the furface of the ground very uneven,by means of little mounts and ridges. Inthe morning I found I had taken up my lodging onthe border of an ancient burying-ground, containinglepulchres or tumuli of the Yamafees, who were hereflain by the Creeks in the h\\ decifive battle, theCreeks having driven them into tliis point, betweenthe doubling of the river, where few of them efcapedthe fury of the conquerors. Thefe graves occupiedthe v/hole grove, confiftingof two or three acres ofground : there were near thirty of thefe cemeteries ofthe dead, nearly of an equal fize and form, beingoblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve feet inwidth, and three or four feet high, now overgrownwith orange trees, live oaks, laurel magnolias, redbays, and other trees and flirubs, compofing dark andfolemn fhades.I here, for the firfl time fince I left the tradinghoufe, enjoyed a night of peaceful repofe. I arofegreatly refrefhed and in good fpirics, fteppcd onboard my baik, and continued my voyage. Afterdoubling the point, I palled by fwamps and meadowson each fide of me. The river here is fomethingmore contracted within perpendicular banks ; theland of an excellent quality, ferdle, and producingprodigioufly large timber and luxuriant herbage.The air continued fultry, and fcarcely enoughwind to flutter the leaves on the trees. The Eafterncoaft of the river now opens, and prefents to viewample plains, confiding of graffy marllies and greenmeadows, and affords a profpe6t almoft unlimited,and extremely pleafing. The oppofite Ihoreexhibits a fublime contrail ; a high bluff bearingpagnificent forefts of grand magnpiia, gloriouspalrus.

1^3 TRAVELS IMpalms, frultflil orange groves, live oaks, bays andother trees. This grand elevation continues four orfive hundred yards,defcribing a gentle curve on theriver, ornannented by a fublime grove of palms, confiflingof many hundreds of trees together ; theyentirely iliade the ground under them. Above andbelow the bluff, the grounds gradually defcend tothe common level fvvamps on the river: at the backof this eminence open to view expanfive greenmeadows or favannas, in which are to be feen glitteringponds of water, furrounded at a great diftanceby high open pine forefts and hommocks,and iflets of oaks and bays projecting into thefavannas. After ranging about thefe folitary grovesand peaceful fliades, I re-embarked and continuedfome miles up the river, between elevated banksof the fwamps or low lands; when on the Eaftfliore, in a capacious ccve or winding of the river,were pleafmg floating fields of piflia ; and in thebottom of this cove opened to view a large creekor branch of the river, which I knew to be the entranceto a beautiful lake, on the banks of whichwas the farm I was going to vifit, and which I defignedfhould be the laftriver.extent of my voyage up theAbout noon the weather became extremely fultry,nor a breath of wind ftirring, hazy or cloudy, withvery heavy diftant thunder, which was anfwered bythe crocodiles— lure prefage of a ftorm !Soon after afcending this branch of the river, onthe right hand prefents itfelf to view a delightfullittle biufp, confining chiefly of fhells, and covered•with a dark grove of red cedar, Zanthoxylon andmyrtle. 1 could not refift the temptation to flophere, although the tremendous thunder all around^the

NORTH AMERICA. I^pthe hemifphere alarmed me greatly,having a largeFrom this grove appears to view anlake to crofs.expanfivc and pleafing profpecfl. The beauteouslong lake in front, about North Eaft from me, itsmoil diftiuit Eaft fliores adorned with dark, highforefts of fcately trees; North and South almollendlefsgrefn plains and meadow?, embelliihed withiflets and projecting promontories of high, dark forefts,where the pyramidal magnolia grandiilora,palmaelata, anclfhadyoak, confpicuoufly tower.Being heretofore fo clofely inverted by high foreftsand deep fvvamps of the great river, I was preventedfrom feeing the progrefs and increafe of theapproaching tempeft, the terrific appearance ofwhich now at once confounded me. He w purpleand fiery appeared the tumultuous clouds, fwiftlyafccnding or darting from the horizon upwards Ithey Icemed to oppofe and dalh againil eacli other ;the fki'js appeared ilreaked with blood or purpleflame overhead, the flamiing lightning ftreamingand dardng about in every direction around, feemicdto fill the world with fire ; whilft the heavy thunderkept the earth in a conftant tremor. 1 had yetfome hopes of crofTing the lake to the plantation infight. On the oppofite fhore of the creek bctorepne, and on the cape as we enter the lake, ftooi alarge illet or grove of oaks and palms. Here I intendedto feek ihelter, and abide till the fury of tiiehuri icane was overpaft, if i found it too violent topermit n.e to crols the lake. In confcquence of vAspi ecipi.ate determination, I ftepped into my boatand pulhed ufr'. What a dreadful ru .iing and roaringthere was every where aroun 1 me! aid to my utterconfufion and altoniftimt nt, I couid not find from•yvhat particular quarter its itrongeft cuireat or di.'-ectiun

I40TRAVELS INtion came, whereby I might have a proper chanceof taking meafaresfor lecurino; a harbour or runnina;from it. The high forefts behind me bent to theblaft ; and the fturdy limbs of the trees cracked. Ihad bylthis time got up abreaft of the grove or hommock: the hurricane clofe by, purfuing me, I foundit dangerous and imprudent in the higheft degree toput in here, as the groves were already torn up, andthe fpreading limbs of the ancient live oaks wereflying over my head, and carried about in the air asleaves and (lubble. I ran by and boldly entered thelake (being hurried in by a ftrong current, which(eemed a prodigy, the violent wind driving the flreamof the creek back again into the lake), and as foonas pofiible took fiielter under the high reedy bankof the lake, and made fall my bark to the boughsof a low fhrubby Hickory, that leaned over the water.Such was the violence of the wind, that itraifed the waters on the oppofite fhores of the lakefeveral feet perpendicular, and there was a rapid flowof water from the creek into it, which was contraryto its natural courfe. Such floods of rain fell duringthe fpace of half or three quarters of an hour, thatmy boat was filled, and 1 expected every momentwhen I fhould fee her fink to the bottom of the lake^and the violence of the wind kept the cable fo conflaiTtlyextended, that it was beyond my ability toget to her. My box, wliich contained my books ofJpecim.ens and other colle6lions, was floating aboutin her; and for a great part of the time the rain camedown with fuch rapidity, and fell in fach quantities,that every objedl was totally obfcured, excepting thecontinual fl:reams or rivers of lightning, pouringfrom the clouds. All fcemed a frightful chaos.When the wind and rain abated, I was overjoyed tofee the face of nature again appear,u

NORTH AMERICA.I4IIc took me an hour or more to clear the water outof my bark. I then eroded the lake before a brifkand favourable breeze (it was about a mile over),and landed fafely at the plantation.When I arrived, my friend was affrighted to feeme, and immediately inquired of me in what mannerI came there ; fuppofing it impollible (until Ihad Ihowed him my boat) that I could have arrivedby water through fo tremicndous a hurricane.Indeed Ifaw plainly that they were greatly terrified,having fuffered almoft irreparable damiagesfrom the violence of the ftorm. All the buildingson the plantation, except his own dwelling-houfe,were hid almoft flat to the ground, or the logs androof rent afunder and twifted about i the manfionhoufefliook and reeled over their heads. He hadnearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almoftripe for the firft cutting, which were nearly ruined;and feveral acres of very promifing fugar-cane, totallyfpoiled for the feafon. The great live oakswhich had been left ftanding about the fields, weretorn to pieces, their limbs lying fcattered over theground : and one very large one which ftood nearh's houfe torn down, which could not have beendone by the united ftrength of a thoufand men. Butwhat is incredible, in the midft of this devaftationand ruin, providentially no lives v/ere loft -, althoughthere were about fixty Negro Haves on the plantation,and moft of them in their huts when the ftormcamiC on, yet they efcaped with their lives, though,leveral were badly wounded.I continued here three days : indeed it took moftof the time of my abode with him, to dry my booksiaad fpecimens of plants. But with attention andcare

14^Travels ff/care I faved the greatefl: number of thern ; thoughfome v/ere naturally fo delicate and fragile, that itWas impofTible to recover them. Here is a vaft bodyof land belonging to t!iis eftate; of high ridges fitfor the culture of corn, indigo, cotton, batatas, &c.and of low fwamps and marfhes, which when properlydrained and tilled, would be fuitable for rice,Thefe rich low grounds, wlien drained and ridged,are as produdbive as the natural high land, and vafdymore durable, efpecially for fugar-cane, corn, andeven indigo ; but this branch 'jf agriculture beingmore cxpenfive, thefe rich lands are neglected, andthe upland only is under culture. The farm is fituatedon the Haft ihore cf the beautiful Long Lake,which is above two miles long, and near a mile broad.This lake communicates with the St, Juan, by thelittle river that 1 afcended, which is about one mileand an half in length, and thirty or forty yards widcrThe river, as well as the lake, abounds with fifh andwild fowl of various kinds, and incredible numbers,efpecially during the winter feafon, when the geefeand ducks arrive here from the north.New Smyrna*, a pretty ^.hriving town, is a colonyof Creeks and Minorquines, ellablifhed by Mr.Turnbull, on the Mufquito river, and very near its* New Smyrna is br.ilt on a high Ihelly bluff, on the Weft bank of theSouth branch of Mufqivt) river, about ten miks a^ove the capes of thatriver, which is about t'jiiiy miles North of Cape Canaveral, Lat. 28. IXvas there abiiut ten vears ago, when the fiirveyor run the lines or precindlsof the colony, where tirre vi'as neitlier habitation nor cleared tiek!. Itwas then a famous orar je grove, the upper or South promontory of a riclge,nearly !i .It a mile wide, and ftrefhing North about forty miles, to the headof the North branch of the Mulqu.ro, to where the Ttjmoko river uniteswith it, nearly parallel to tlie fea coaft, and not ;.hove tv/o miles acrofs tothe fca beach. All this ridge was then one entire orange grove, with liveoaks, magnolia;-, palms, red bays, and others : I obferved then, near whereNew Symina now ftand>, a fpacious Indian mount and avenue, which'ftood near the banks of the river : the a- cnue ran on a Ifrait line back,through tlie grovec, acroi's the il^iga, and terminated at the verge of naturalfavannas and ponds.mouth i>'

jorI1 inNORTH AMERICA.I4-Jmouth i it is about thirty miles over land from thisfarm.My friend rode with me, about four miles diftancefr6m the houfe, to fhow me a vaft fountain of warm,or "rather hot mineral v/ater, which iiTued from ahigh ridge or bank on the river, in a great cove orbay, a few miles above the mouth of the creek,which I afcended to the lake j ir boils up with greatforce, forming immediately a vafl circular bafon, capaciousenough for feveral fhallcps to ride in., andruns with rapidity into the river three or four hundredyards diftance. This creek, which is formedinftantly by this admirable fountain, is wide anddeep enough for a (loop to fail up into the bafon.The water is perfe

144 TRAVELS INhalf furrounded this vafl fountain. A deligfitfulftream of ccol falubrious water ifTues from the ridge,meandering :dong, and entering the creek jiift belowthe bafon. I returned in the evening, and next dayfat off again down the river.My hofpitable friend, after fupplying me with necelTaries,prevailed on me to accept of the companyand affftance of his purveyor, one day's voyagedown the river, whom I was to fet on fiiore at acertain bluff, upwards of twenty miles below, butnot above one third that diftance by land; he wasto be out in the forcfts one day, on a hunt for turkeys.The current of the river being here confinedwithin its perpendicular banks, ran brifkly down:we cheerfully defcended the grand river St. Juan,enjoying enchanting profpefts.Before night we reached the deflined port, at ajpacious orange grove. Next morning we fcparated,and I proceeded down the river. The profpeflson either hand are now pleafing, and I view them atIcifure, and without toil or dread.Induced by the beautiful appearance of the greenmeadows, which open to the Eaflward, I determinednot to pafs this Elyfium without a vifit. Behold theloud, fonorous, watchful favanna cranes (grus pratenfis)with mufical clangor, in detached fquadrons.They fpread their light elaflic fail : at firil theymove from the earth heavy and flow ;they labourand beat the dcnfe air; they form the line with wideextended wings, tip to tip; they all rife and fall togetheras one bird j now they mount aloft, graduallywheeling about i each fquadron performs its evolutions.

•TanMlustion,NORTH AMERltA. 145encircling the expanfive plains, cbferving eachone its own orbit ; then lowering fail, defcend onthe verge of fome glittering lakej whilft otherfquadronsj afcending aloft in fpiral circles, boundon interefting difcoveries, wheel round and doublethe promontory, in the filver regions of the cloudedfkies, where, far from the fcopc of eye, they carefullyobferve the verdant meadows on the borders ofthe Eaft Lake ; then contradl their plumes and defcendto the earth, where, after rcfting a while on fomeverdant eminence, near the flowery border of thelake, they, with dignified, yet flow, refpedful fteps,approach the kindred band, confer, and treat forhabitation ; the bounds and precin6ls being fettled*they confederate and take poffeflion.There is inhabiting the low fhores and fwampsof this river and the lakes of Florida, as well asGeorgia, a very curious bird*, called by an Indianname (Ephoufkyca) which fignifies in our languagethe crying bird. I cannot determine what genusof European birds to join it with. It is about thefize of a large domeftic hen : all the body, aboveand beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every featheredged or tipped with white, which makes the bird,appear fpeckled on a near view j the eye is largeand placed high on the head, which is very prominentJthe bill or beak is five or fix inches in length,arched or bent gradually downwards, in that refpe(5tto be compared to one half of a bent bowj it is largeor thick near the bafe, compreffed on each fide, andflatted at top and beneath, vvhich makes it appearfour fquare for more than an inch, where the noftrilsare placed, from whence, to their tips^ both mandiblesare round, gradually lellening or tapering topidlusiLtheir

146 TRAVELS IN*their extremities, which are thicker for about halfan inch than immediately above, by which the mandiblesnever fit quite cloie their whole length ; theupper mandible is a fmall matter longer than theunder j the bill is of a dufky green colour, morebright and yellowifli about the bafe and angles ofthe mouth ; the tail is very fhort, and the middlefeather the longeft > the others on each fide fhortengradually, and are of the colour of the reft of thebird, only fomewhat darker; the two fhorteft oroutermoft feathers are perfecftly white, which thebird has a faculty of flirting out on either fide, asquick as a flafli of lightning, efpecially when hehears or fees any thing that difturbs him, utteringat the fame inftant an extreme harlh and loudftriek ; his neck is long and flender ; and his legsare alfo long and bare of feathers above the knee,like thofe of the bittern^ and are black or of a darklead colour.There are two other fpecies of this genus, whichagree in almoft every particular with the above defcription,except in fize and coloui'. The lirll* ofthefe I fliall mention is a perfedl white, except theprime quill feathers, v.'hich are as black as thofe ofa crow Jthe bill and legs of a beautiful clear red, asalfo a fpace clear of feathers about the eyes. Theother fpecies j- is black on the upper fide, the brealland belly white, and the legs and beak as white asfnow. Both thefe fpecies are about half the fize ofthe crying bird. They fly in large flocks or fquadrons,evening and morning, to and from their feedingplace or roofts i both fpecies are called Spanifhcurlews : thefe and the crying bird feed chiefly on• Tantalus albiis. Numiiius albus. Cit.\ Tautalu;; vcificolor. Numinus ful'cus. L'at,Cray-

NORTH AMERICA. 147-cray-fifh, whofe cells they probe, and with theirftrong pinching bills drag them out : all the three(pecies are eflecmed excellent food.It is a pleafing fight at times of high winds andheavy thunder ftorms, to obferve the numerous fquadronsof thefe Spanifh curlews driving to and fro,turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when'by their various evolutions in the different and oppofitecurrents of the wind high in the clouds, theirfilvery white plumage gleams and fparkles likethebrighteft cryflal, reflefting the fun-beams that dareupon them between the dark clouds.Since I have turned my obfervations upon thebirds of this country, I fhall notice another veryfingular one, though already mod curioufly andexaftly figured by Catefby, which feems to benearly alHed to thofe before mentioned ; I rheanthe bird which he calls the wood pelican*. Thisis a large bird, perhaps near three feet high whenftanding ere6t. The bill is very long and ftrong,bending with a moderate curve from the bafe tothe tip ; the upper mandible is the largeft, and receivesthe edges of the nether one into its wholelength ; the edges are very fharp and firm ; thewhole of a dark afh or horn colour; the foreheadround the bafe of the beak and fides of the headis bare of feathers, and of a dark grcenifh colour,in which fpace is placed the eyes, which are veryJarge; the remainder of the head and neck is of anut brown colour j the back of a light bluilh grey;upper part of the wings, bread, and belly, almoftwhite, with fome flight dalhes of grey ; the quillfeathersand tail, which are very fhort, are of a darkflate colour, almoft black ; the legs, which are very• Tantalus locubtor. Linnvh 2long.

:11^8'TRAVELS JTNJong, and bare of feathers a great length abovethe knees, are of a dark dull greeniih colour : ichas a fmall bag or pouch under its throat : it feedson ferpents, young alligators^ frogs, and other reptiles*This folltary bird does not afTociate in flocks, bueis generally feen alone ; cotnmonly near the banks-_*f great rivers,in vaft marilies or meadows, efpeciallyfuch as are caufed by inundations ; and alfom the vaft defcrted rice plantations : he {landsalone on the topmofl limb of tall dead cyprefs trees>Tiis neck contraftcd or drawn in upon his fhoulders,and beak relling like a long fcythe upon his breallin this penfive pofiiure and folitary fituation, itlooks extremely grave, forrov/ful, and melancholy, asif in the deepcft thought. They are never feen onthe fait fea coafl:, and yet are never found at a greatdiftance from it. I take this bird to be of a differentgenus from the tantalus, and perhaps it approachesthe neareft to the Egyptian ibis of any other bird yetknown.There are two fpecies of vultures* in thefe regions,I think not mentioned in hiftorj' : the firflwrIhall defcribe is a beautiful bird, near the fize ofa turkey buzzard f, but his wings are much fliorter,and confequently he falls greatly below that admirablebird in fail, i Ihall call this bird the paintedvulture. The bill is long and ftraiglit almoft tothe point, when it is hooked or bent fuddenly downand fharp ; the head and neck bare of feathersnearly down to the flomach, when the feathers beginto cover the fkin, and fooii become long andof a foft texture, forming a ruff or tippet, in whichthe bird by contracting his neck can hide tliat as*'VuUur lact;-^-fVuluir umoa.

NORTH AMERICA.I49"well as his head ; the bare fl-;in on the neck appe.^rsloole and wrinkled, and is of a deep bright yellowcolour, intermixed with coral red ; the hinderpart of the neck is nearly covered with fljort, ftiffhair ; and the fkin of this part of the neck is of adun-purple colour, gradually becoming red as itapproaches the yellow of the fides and fore part.The crown of the head is red ; there are lobed lappetsof a reddifh orange colour, which lie on the,bafe of the upper mandible. But what is fingular,a large portion of the ftcmach hangs down on thebreaft of the bird, in the likenefs of a lack or halfwallet, and feems to be a duplicature of the craw,which is naked and of a reddilli flefh colour ; this ispartly concealed by the feathers of the breaft, unlefswhen it is loaded with food (which is commonly, Ibelieve, roafted reptiles), and then it appears prominent.The plumage of the bird is generally white orcream colour, except the quill-feathers of the wingsand two or three rows of the coverts, which are of abeautiful dark brown ; the tail, which is large andwhite, is tipped with this dark brown or black ; thelegs and feet of a clear white ; the eye is encircledwith a gold coloured iris;the pupil bl^ck.The Creeks or Mufcogulges conftruft their royalftandard of the tail feather of this bird, which iscalled by a name fignifying the eagle's tail :carry with them when they go to battle,this theybut then itis painted with a zone of red within the brown rips.jand in peaceable negotiations it is difplayed new,clean, and white : this ftandard is held moft facredby them on all occafions, and is conftru^ted and ornamentedwith great ingenuity. Thefe birds feldomappear but when the defcrts are fet on fire (whichiJ^ppens- almo/t every day throughout the year, inL 3fomo

;150 TRAVELS INfome part or other, by the Indians, for the purpofcof roufing the game, as alfo by the lightning :) whenthey are feen at a diftance fearing on the wing, gatheringfrom every quarter, and gradually ap-.proaching the burnt plains, where they alight uponthe ground yet fm^kirig with hot embers : they gatherup the roafled ferpents, frogs, and lizards,filling their facks with them: at this time a perfonmay ihoot them at plealure, they not being willingto quit the feaft, and indeed feeming to brave alldanger.The other fpecies may very properly be calledthe coped vulture, and is by the inhabitants calledthe carrion crow. As to bulk or weight, he is nearlyequal to either of the others before-mentioned*His wings are not long and Iharp pointed, but broadand rouhd at their extremities, having a clumly appearance; the tail is remarkably fhort, which hefpreads like a little fan, when on the wing. Theyhave a heavy laborious flight, flapping their wings,then fail a litde and then flap dieir wings again,and fo on as if recovering themfelves when falling.The beak is very long and fl:raight, until it makesa fuddcn hook at the point, in the manner of thfcother vultures. The whole bird is of a fable ormourning colour j the head and neck down to thebreaft is bare of feathers, and the fkin wrinkled jthis unfeathered fkin is of a deep livid purple, appearingblack and thinly fet with fhort black hair.He has a rufi^or tippet of long foft feathers, like acollar, bearing on his breaft, in which he cgn concealhis neck and head at pleafure.Having agreeably diverted away the intolerableJbeats of fukry noon in fruitful fragrant groves, withrenewed vigour I again refume my fylvan pilgrimage.^ -.^. -The

NORTH AMERICA.I^I'^he afternoon and evening moderately warm, andexceeding pleafant views from die river and its variedfhores. I pafTed by Battle lagoon and thebluff, without much oppofition ; but the crocodileswere already afiembling in the pafs. Before night Icame to, at a charming orange grove bluff, on theEaft fide of the little la];e ; and afrcr fixing my campon a high open fituation, and collefting a plenty ofdry wood for fuel, I had time to get fome fine troutfor fupper and joyfully return to my camp.What a mod beautiful creature is this fifli beforeme ! gliding to and fro, and figuring in the iVilIclear waters, with his orient attendants and alfociates: the yellow bream * or fun fifh. It is abouteight inches in length, nearly of the fhape of thetrout, but rather larger in proportion over thefhoulders and brcafti the mouth large, and thebranch ioftega opens wide j the whole fifli is of apale gold (or burnifhed brafs) colpur, darker on theback and upper fides ; the fcales are of a proportionablefize, regularly placed, and eveiy wherevariably powdered with red, ruffet, filver^ blue, andgreen ipecks, fo laid on the fcales as to appear liketeal dufb or opaque bodies, each apparent particlebeing fo projefted by light and ihade, and the variousattitudes of the filh, as to deceive the fight;for in reality nothing can be of a more plain andpolifhed furface than the fcales and v/holc body ofthe fifh. The fins are of an orange cok ur ; and,like all the fpecies of the bream, the uitimat:^ angleof the branchioflega terminates bv a little fpat'jla,the extreme end of which reprefents c. cierceni: ofthe finelf ultramarine blue, encircled wicii filvcf and* Cyprinus coronariiis,L 4vc-lvet

151 TRAVELS INvelvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a peacock'strain. He is a fifh of prodigious {Irength.and adlivity in the water; a warrior in a gilded coatof rnail ; and gives po reft or quarter to fmall filh,which he preys upon. They are delicious food andin great abundance.The orange grove is but narrow, betwixt theriver banks and ancient Indian fields, where thereare evident traces of the habitations of the ancients,furrounded with groves of live oak, laurel nnagnolia,zanthoxylon, liquidambar, and others.How harmonious and foothing is this natiye fylvanmufic now at frill evening ! incxpreffibly tenderare the refponfive cooings of the innocent dove, inthe fragrant zanthoxylon groves, and the variableand tuneful warblings of the nonpareil, v/itn themore fprightly and elevated flrains of the blue linnetand golden ifterus : this is indeed harmony, evenamidft the incelfant croaking of the frogs : theIhades of filent night aie made more cheerful, withthe fhrill voice of the whip-poor-will * and adivemock- bird.My fituation high and airy: a brifk and cool breezefieadily and inccilantly palTung over the clear watersof the lake, and fluttering over me through the furroundiiiggroves, wings its way to the moon-light17.. annas, while I repofe on my fweet and healthycouch of the foft tillandfia ufnea-adfcites, and thelatter glocir.y and itill hours of night pafs rapidlyaway as it yveic^ in a m.oment. 1 aroie, ftrength-* Cnprimulju' rufus.cilled chiick-uill's-widow, from a faiicicil rcfeinblaiiceof In:, noles to thefe words : ic inhabits the maritime parts of Carolinaana Fli.iida, and k i.iore than Iv.kc the fiiie of the night hawk or>yhip-pooi-vviil.cned

^L.3.. '/./-fa C

NORTH AMERICA.f^Jencd and cheerful, in the morning. Having femerepairs to make in the tackle of my vefTel, I p-id myfirll attention to them; which being accomplilhed,my curioiity prompted mc to penetrate the groveand view the illumined plaiiis.What a beautiful difplay of vegetation is herebefore me ! feemjngly unlimited in extent and variety:how the dew-drops twinkle and play upcnthe fight, tiemblino; on the tips of the lucid, greenfavanna, fparkling as the gem that flames on theturban of the eallern prince. See the pearly tearsrolling off the buds of tiie exj inding Granadilla*;behold the azure fields of cerulean ixea! what canequal the rich golden flowers oftheCanna lutea, which,ornament the banks of yon ferpentine rivulet, meanderingover the meadows j the almoil: endlefs varietiesof the gay Phlox, tJiat enamel the fwelling.grctn banks, aflbciated with the purple Verbena corymbofa,Viola, pearly Gnaphalium, and filvcry Perjdicium? How fantaftical looks the libertine Clitopa,mantling the fiirubs, on the villas fkirting thegroves! My morning excurfion finiihed, I returnedto my camp, breakfafted, then went on boardmy boat, gently defcended the no' Ic river, andpafl^ed by fcyeral openings of exteniivc plains andmeadows, environing the eaft lake, charming beyondcompare. At evening I came to at a goodharbour, under the high bc.nks of the river, andrelied during the night amidft the fragrant groves,expofed to the conflar»t breezes from the riverhere I made ainple collections cffpecimens andgrow-iing roots of curious vegetables, which kept me (uUyemployed the greatcft p.irt of the day; and in theevening arrived at a charming fpot en the call* Pafliflora incarnata> called May-Appb.bank.

154 TRAVELS IN"banfc, which 1 had marked on my afcent up the n^Ver, where 1 made fomc addition to my collections; and the next day I employed myfcflf in thefame manner, putting into fliofe frequendy, at convenientplaces, which I had nodcedj and in theevening arrived again at the upper ilore, where Iliad the pleafure of finding my old friend, the trader,III good health and cheerful, and his afTairs in aproiperous way. There were alfo a fmall party^of indians here, who had lately arrived with theirhunts to purchale goods. I continued a few daysat this pofl, fearching its environs for curious vegetableproduflionS) colle6ling kcds and plantinggrowingroots in boxes, to be tranfported to thelower trading houfe.Now, having procured necefiaries to accommotTateme on my voyage down to the lower flore, Ibid adieu to my bid friend and benefactor, Mr. JobWiggens, embarked alone on board my little fortunateve.fTel, arui fee fail. I chofe to follow theeaftenimoft channel of the river to the Great Lake^becaufe it ran by high banks and blulTs of the eadernmain the greateft part of the diftance, v/hich affordedme an opportunity of obferving a far greatervariety of natural fubjeds, than if 1 had taken theweflern or middle channel, which flowed throughfwamps and rnarfhes.At evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former^ife and plcafant harbour, at the eaft cape of theGreat Lake, where I had noticed feme curiousihrubs and plants; here 1 relied, and on the fmootliand gentle current launch again into the little oceanof Lake George, meaning now, on my return, tocoaft hisweflern ihores in iear'ch of new beauties inthe bounteous kingdom of Flora.

fORTH AMERICA.t5J(1 was however induced to deviate a little frommy intended courfe, and touch at the inchantinglittle Ifle of Palms. This delightful fpot, planted bynature,is almoft an entire grove of Palms, with a fewpyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden Orange,and the animating Zanthoxylon. What a beautifulretreat is here ! bleffed imviolatcd fpot of earth,rifing from tlie limpid waters of the lake : its fragrantgroves and blooming lawns inveiled and protectedby encircling ranks of the Yucca gloriofa.A fafcinating atmofphere furrounds this blifsful garden;the balmy Lantana, ambrofial Citra, perfumedCrinum, perfpiring their mingled odours, waftedthrough Zanthoxylon groves. I at lad broke awayfrom the enchanting fpot, and ftepped on boardmy boat, hoifted fail, and foon approached the coaflof the main, at the cool eve of day : then traverfinga capacious femicircular cove of the lake, vergedby low, extenfive grafly meadows, I at length bydufk made a fafe harbour, in a little lagoon,on theTea lliore or ftrand of a bold fandy point, whichdefcended from the furf of the lake. This was aclean fandy beach, hard and firm by the beatingfurf, when the wind fets from the eafb coaft. Idrew up my light veffel on the (loping fliore, thatfhe might be fafe from the beating waves in Cafe ofa fudden florm of v;ind in the night. A few yardsback the land was a little elevated, and overgrownwith thickets of ihrubs and low trees, confidingchicfi'/ of Zanciioxylon, Olea Americana,Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, Morus, Ptelea, Halefia,Querci, M)rica cerifera, and others. Thefegroves were but low, yet fufficiently high to Ihelterme from the chilling dews; and being but a|ew yards diftance from my veffel^ aere I fixed myen-

!156 TRAVELS INencampment, A brifk v;ind arifing from the lakr,drove away the clouds of mufquitoes into the thickets.I now, v;ith difficulty and induftry, coilefteds fufnciency of dry wood to keep up a light duringthe night, and to roafl fome trout which I had caughti&'hen defcending the river : their heads I Hewed inthe juice of Oranges, which, with boiled rice, affordedme a v/holcfome and delicious fupper: I hungthe remainder of my broiled fifh on the fnags offome Ilirubs over my head. I at laft, after reconnoitringmy habitation, returned, fpread abroadmy fl'cins and blanket upon the clean fands by mytire-fide, and betook myfelf to repofe.Hovv glorious the powerful fun, minifler of theMoft High in the rule and government of this earth,leaves oik hemifphere, retiring from our fightbeyond the weftern forcfts ! 1 behold with gratitudehis departing fmiles, tinging the fleecy rofeateclouds, now riding far away on the eaftern horizon; behold they vanifli from light in the azurefidesAll now filent and peaceable, I fuddenly fellafleep. At midnight I awake j when, raifmg nwhead ereft, T find myfelf alone in the wildernefs ofFlorida, on the Ihores of Lake George. Alone indeed,but under the care of the Almighty, and proteuledby the invifible hand of my guardian angel.When quite awake, 1 ftarted at the heavy treadof i-bme animal ; the dry limbs of trees upon theground crack under his fectj the clofe fhrubby thicketspart and bend under him as he rullies off.I rekindle my llecpy fire; lay in contad theexfoliated fmoking brands damp with the dew ofheaven.Tlv

NORTH AMERICA.15^The bright flame afcends and illuminates theground and groves around me.When looking up, I found my fifh carried off>though I had thought them C^fc on the Ihrubsjjuilover my head ; but their fcent, carried to a greatdiftance by tlie damp nocturnal breezes, I ilippofewere too powerful attraftions to refifu.Perhaps it may not be time lod:, to refl: awhile here, and refleft on the unexpected and unaccountableincident, which however pointed outto me an extraordinary deliverance or protection^of my life, from the rapacious wolf that Hole myfifh fjrom over my head.How much eafi.er and more eligible might it havebeen for him to have leaped upon my bread in thsdead of fleep, and torn my throat, v/hich v/ouliihave inftantly deprived me of life, and then gluttedhis ftomach for the prefent with my warm blood,and dragged off my body, which would have madeA feaft afterwards for him and his howling afTociates !"I fay, would not this have been a wifer ilep, thanto have made protracted and circular approaches,and then after, by chance, efpying the fifn overmy head, with the greateft caution and nlenccrear up, and take them off the fnags one by one,then make oft with them, and that fo cunningly asnot to waken me until lie had fairly accomplifnedhis purpofe ^The morning being clear, I fat fail with a favourablebreeze, coatling along the fhores ; whenon a fudden the waters became tranfparent, anddifcovered the fandy bottom, ^nd the feveral nationsof filh, pafiing and repaiTiag each other.•Following

158 TRAVELS INlowingthis courfe I v/as led to the cape of the littleriver,defcending from Six Mile Springs, and meanderingfix miles from its fource through green meadows.I entered this pellucid ftream, failing overthe heads of innumerable fquadrons of fifh, which, althoughmany feet deep in the water, were diftinftlyto be feen.- I paffed by charming iQets of flourifhingtrees, as Palm, Red Bay, Afh, Maple, NyiTa, andothers. As I approached the diftant high foreft oathe main, the river widened, floating fields of thegreen Pifria furrounded me, the rapid ftream windingthrough them. What an alluring fcene was nowbefore me 1 A vaft bafon or little lake of cryftalwaters, half encircled by fwelling hills, clad withOrange and odoriferous Illicium groves, the toweringMagnolia, itfelf a grove, and the exalted Palm,as if confcious of their tranfccndenr glories, toffedabout their lofty heads, painting, with mutablefhades, the green floating fields beneath. The focialpratding coot enrobed in blue, and the fqueelingwater-hen, with wings half expanded, trippedafcer each other, over the watery mirrour.I put in at an ancient landing place, which is afloping afcent to a level graflfy plain, an old Indianfield. As I intended to make my moft confiderablecolledlions ac this place, I proceeded immediatelyto fix my encampment but a few yardsfrom my fafe harbour, where I fecurely faflenedmy boat to a Live Oak, which overlhadowed nrjyport.After collecting a good quantity of fire-wood,as it was about the middle of the afternoon, I refolvedto reconnoitre the ground about my encampment.Having penetrated the groves next to me,I came to the open forefts, confifting of exceedingly

NORTH AMERICA.1 ^^\ng]y tallftraight Pines (Piiiiis Paluflrls) that (lood^t a conficlerable tiillance from cacli other, dirougUwhich appeared at N. W. an almoll unlimited plataof grafly favannas, cmbellifhed with a chain of flial-Jow ponds, as far as the fight ccld reach. Hereis a fpecies of Magnoha that ailociates with theGordonia lafianthus ; it is a tall tree, fixry or eightyfeet in heighth ; the taipk ftraight ; its jicad terminatingin the form of a ll

:l6o fRAVfiLS- INto the ground. So that the Grordonk lafjanthusmay be faiJ to change and renew its garnncntsevery marning throughout the year; and every dayappears with unfading luftre. And moreover, afterthe general flowering is pafl, there is a thin fuccefllonof fcatCering bloffoms to be feen, on fomeparts of the tree, almoft every day throughout theremaining months, until the floral fcafon returnsagain. It> natural fituation, when growing, is onthe edges of fliallow ponds, or lov/ wet grounds onrivers, in a fandy foil, the neareft fo the v/ater ofany other tree, fo that in droughty feafons its longlerpentine roots which run near or upon the furfaceof the earth, may reach, into the water. Whenthe tree has arrived to the period of perfefl magnitude,it is fixty, eighty, or an hundred feet high,forming a pyramidal head. The wood of old treeswhen fawn into plank is defer vedly admired in cabinet-workor furniture ; it has a cinnamon colouredground, marbled and veined with many coloursthe inner bark is ufed for dying a reddifli or forrelcolour ; it imparts this colour to wool, cotton>linen, and dreffed deer-fkins, and is highly efteemedby tanners.The Zamia pumila, the Erythryna corallodendrum,and the Ca6lus opuntia, grow here in greatabundance and perfection. The firft grows in theopen pine forefts, in tufts or clumps, a large conicalItrobile difclofing its large coral red fruit,which appears fmgalarly beautiful amidfl the deepgreen fern-like pinnated leaves.The Erythryna corallodendrum is fix or eightfeet high, ici, prickly limbs ftride and wreathe aboutwith fingular freedom, and its fpikes of crimfontiov/crs iiave a finecfFcd amidfl the delicate foliage.8 Th(^

NORTH AMERICA.l6lThe CacTbus opuntia is very tall, ere

102 TRAVELS INpears entirely covered with low trees and fhrubs ofvarious kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarfSweet Bay, (Laurus Borboma)01ea Annericana,Marusrubra, Myrica cerifera, Ptelea, ^fculus pavia,Quercus Ilex, Q^ glandifer, Q^ maritima, foliiscTjneiformibus obfolete trilobis minoribus, Q^pumila,Rhamnus frangula, Halefia diptera, & tetraptera,CafTine, Ilex aquifolium, Callicarpa Johnibnia,Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibifcus fpinifex,Zanthoxylon, Hopea tin£toria, Sideroxylum, witha multitude of other fhrubs, many of which werenew to me, and fome of them admirably beautifuland fingular. One of them particularly engaged mynotice, which, from its fruftification, I took to bea fpecies of Cacalia.It is an evergreen (hrub, aboutfix or eight feet high ; the leaves are generallyfomewhat cuneiform, flefhy, and of a pale whitifligreen, both furfaces being covered with a hoarypubefcence and veficula?, that when preffed feelsclammy, and emits an agreeable fcent; the afcendcntbranches terminate with large tufts or corymbesof rbfe coloured flowers, of the fame agreeablefcentj thefe clufters of flowers, at a diflance, looklike a large Carnation or fringed Poppy flower, (SyngenefiaPolyg. -i^qul. Linn.), Cacalia heterophylla,foliis cuneiformibus, carnofis, papil. vifcidis.Here is alfo another fpecies of the fame genus,but it does not grow quite fo large ; the leaves arefmaller, of a yet duller green colour, and the flowersare of a pale rofe ; they arc both valuable evergreens.The trees and flirubs which cover thefe extenfivcwilds are about five or fix feet high, and feemto be kept down by the annual firing of the deferts,rather than the barrennefs of the foil, as I faw afew large Live Oaks, Mulberry trees, and Hiccorics.

NORtH AMERICA. 163fie?, which evidently have withflood the devouringflames. Thefe adjoining wild plains, forefts, andlavannas, are (ituatcd lower than the hilly groves onthe banks of the lake and river; but what fhould bethe natural caufe of it I cannot even pretend toconjedlure, unlefs orie may fuppofe that thofe highhills, which we call bluffs, on the banks of thisgreat river and its lakes, and which fupport thofemagnificent groves and high forefts, and are generallycompofed of fhells and fand, were thrown upto their prefent heighth by the winds and waves,when the bed of the river was nearer the level ofthe prefent furface of the earth ; but then, to reft:upon fuch a fuppofition, would be admitting thatthe waters were heretofore in greater quantitiesthan at this time, or that their prefent channels andreceptacles are worn deeper into the earth.I now dire

;164 TRAVELS INand dircfhrubs, and plants, the pendant golden Orangedancing on die furface of the pellucid waters, thebalmy air vibrating with the melody of the merrybirds,tenants of the encircling aromatic grove.At the lame inftant innumerable bands of filhare feen, fome clothed inthe moft brilliant coloursthe voracious crocodile llretched along at full length,as the great trunk of a tree in fize ; the devouringgarfifli, inimical trout, and all the varieties ofgilded painted bream; the barbed catfifh, dreadedfting-ray, Ikate, and flounder, fpotted bafs^^fheeps head and oniinous drum ; all in their fepa-Fate band;? and comnnunitics, with free and unfuf-6 picious^

NORTH AMERICA. 165picious intercourfe performing their' evolutions:there are no figns of enmity, no attempt to devoureach other ; the different bands feem peaceably andcomplaifantly to move a litde afide, as it were tomake room for others to pafs by.But behold yet fomething far more admirable,fee whole armies defcending into an abyfs, into themouth of the bubbling fountain: they difappear! arethey gone for ever ? is it real ? I raife my eyes withterror and aftonilhment ; I look down again tothe fountain with anxiety, when behold them asit were emerging from the blue ether of anotherworld, apparently at a vaft diftance ; at their firftappearance, no bigger than flies or minnows ; nowgradually enlarging, their brilliant colours begin topaint the fluid.Now they come forward rapidly, and inftantlyemerge, with the elafl:ic expanding column of cryftallinewaters, into the circular bafon or funnel:fee now how gently they rife, fome upright, othersobliquely, or feem to lie as it were on their fides,fuff'ering themfelves to be gently lifted or borne upby the expanding fluid towards the furface, failingor floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether :then again they as gently defcend, diverge and moveoff; when they rally, form again, and rejoin theirkindred tribes.This amazing and delightful fcene, though real,appears at firft: but as a piece of excellent painting; there feems no medium ;you imagine thepidlure to be within a few inches of your eyes, andthat you may without the leaft: difficulty touch anyone of the fifh, or put your finger upon the crocodile's^ye, when it really is twenty or thirty feetunder water.M 3And

:1 66 TRAVELS INAnd although this paradife of fifh may feem toexhibit a juft reprefentation of the peaceable andhappy ftate of nature v.'hich exifted before the fall>yet in reality it is a mere reprefentation ; for thenature of the fifh is the fame as if they were in LakeGeorge or the river ; but here the water or elementin which they live and move, is fo perfeftly clearand tranfparent, it places them all on an equalitywith regard to their ability to injure or efcapefrom one another ; (as all river fifti of prey, or fuchas feed upon each other, as well as the unwieldycrocodile, take their prey by furprife ; fecredngthemfelves under covert or in ambulh, until anopportunity offers, when they rufh fuddenly upontliem :) but here is no covert, no ambulh ; here thetrout freely paffes by the very nofe of the alligator,and laughs in his face, and the bream by the trout.But what is really furprifing is, that the confcioufnefsof each other's fafety, or fome other latent caufe,fhould fo abfolutely alter their conduft, for here isnot the leafl attempt made to injureanother.or diflurb oneThe fun pafTing below the horizonj and night approaching,I arofe from my feat, and -proceeding ojiarrived at my camp, kindled my fire, fupped andrepofcd peaceably. Rifmg early, I employed thefore part of the day in coiiefting fpecimens of growingroots and feeds. In the afternoon, I left thefeElyfian fprings and the aromatic groves, and brifklydcfcended the pellucid little river, re-entering thbgreat lake. The wind being gentle and fair forMount Royal, I hoifted fail, and fuccefsfully cro flingthe N, weft bay, about nine miles, came to atRocky Point, the weft cape or promontory, as wecntef the river defcending towards Mount Royal•thefe

;NORTH AMERICA.xCjthefe rocks are horizontal flabs or flat maflles,fifing out of the lake two or three feet above itsfurface, and feem an aggregate compofition orconcrete of fand, fhells, and calcareous cement, of adark gray or dufky colour. The ftones are hard andiirm enough for buildings, and ferve very well forlight hand mill-ftones; and when calcined afford acoarfe lime : they lie in vaft horizontal maffesupon one another, from one to two or three feet inthicknefs, and are eafily feparated and broken toany fize or form, for the purpofe of building. RockyPoint is an airy, cool, and delightful fituation, commandinga mod ample and pleafing profped of thelake and its environs j but here being no wood, Ire-embarked and failed down a little farther to theifland in the bay, where I went on Ihore at a magnificentgrove of Magnolias and Oranges, defirousof augmenting my collections. I arofe early nextmorning, and after ranging the groves and favannas,returned, embarked again, and defcending, calledat Mount Royal, where I enlarged my coUedionsand bidding adieu to the gentleman and lady whorefided there, and who treated me with great hofpitalityon my afcent up the river, arrived in the-evening at the lower trading houfe.Ujlchap.

1^$ TRAVELS INC H A P.VI.OT-r my refiirn from my voyage to the upper (lore,underilood rrom the trading company defigncd forICufcowilla, that they had been very active in theirpreparations, and would be ready to fet off ina fevirdays. I therefore availed myfelf of the little time^Uovi'ed me to fecure and preferve my colledtions,againft the arrival of the trading fchooner, whichwas hourly expedledj that every thing might be inreadinefs to be lliipped on board her, in cafe Ihefhould load again and return for Savanna duringjny abfence.Every neceffary being now in readinefs, earlyon a fine morning we proceeded, attended by fourmen under the conduft of an ojd trader, whom Mr.M'Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeeperand other chiefs of Cufcowilla, on the fubjeft of reeftablilhingthe trade, &:c. agreeable to the latetreaty of St. Auguftine.For the firft four or five miles we travelled weflward,over a perfe6lly level plain, which appearedbefore and on each fide of us, as a charming greenmeadow, thinly planted with low fpreading Pinetrees (P. paluflris). The upper flratum of the earthis a fine white cryftalline fand, the very upper furfaceof which being mixed or incorporated withthe afhes of bu^-nt vegetables, renders it of fufficientftrengch or fertility to clothe itfelf perfedllywith a very great variety of gralTes, herbage, andremarkably low fhrubs, together with a very dwarffpecies of Palmetto (Corypha pumila ftipit, lerratis).Of

NORTH AMERICA. |6^Of the low fhrubs many were new to me and of avery pleafing appearance, particularly a fpecies ofannona (annona incarna, floribus grandioribus paniculatis); this grows three, four, or five feet high,the leaves fomewhat cuneiform or broad lanceolate,attenuating down to the petiole, of a pale or lightgreen colour, covered with a pubefcence or fhortfine down ; the flowers very large, perfeclly whiteand fweet fcented, many connected together onlarge loofe panicles or fpikes ; the fruit of the fizeand form of a fmall cucumber, the fkin or exteriorfurface fomewhat rimofe or fcabrous, containing ayellow pulp of the confidence of a hard cuflard,and very delicious, wholefome food. This feems avariety, if not the fame that I firft remarked, flowingon the Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Charlotia,and many other places in Georgia and EaftFlorida ; and I obferved here in plenty the verydwarf decumbent annona, with narrow leaves, andvarious flowers already noticed at Alatamaha (annonapigmasa). Here is alfo abundance of the beautifullitde dwarf kalmia ciliata, already defcribed.The white berried empetrum, a very pretty evergreen,grows here on fomewhat higher and drierknolls, in large patches or clumps, afTociated witholea Americana, feveral fpecies of dwarf qucrci(•aks), vaccinium, Gordonia lafianthus, Andromedaferruginea, and a very curious and beautiful fhrubwhich feems allied to the rhododendron, cafTme,rhamnus frangula, Andromeda nicida, &c. whichbeing of dark green foliage, diverfify and enliventhe landfcape :but what appears very extraordinary,is to behold here, deprefled and degraded, the gloriouspyramidal magnolia grandiflora, aflfociated^mongft thefe vile dwarfs, and even fome of them|-jfing above it, though not five feet high} yet ftillihowing

lyOTRAVELS INIhowing large, beautiful and expanfive white fra«grant blofibms, and great heavy cones, on flenderprocumbent branches, fome even lying on the earth;the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evidentfrom the vaft excrelcent tuberous roots, coveringieveral feet of ground, from which thefe (lenderfhoots fpring.In fucli clumps and coverts are to be feen feveralkinds of birds, particularly a fpecies of jay (picaglandaria cerulea non criftata) : they are generallyof an azure blue colour, have no creft or tuft offeathers on the head, nor are they fo large as thegreat crefted blue jay of Virginia, but are equallyclamorous. The towee birds (frangilla erythropthalma)are very numerous, as are a fpecies of bluifhgray butcher bird (lanius). Here were alfo lizardsand fnakes. The lizards were of that fpecies calledm Carolina, fcorpions : they are from five to fixinches in length, of a flender form; the tail in particularis very long and fmall: they are of a yellowifliclay colour,ftripes of a dufl^y brown colour,varied with longitudinal lines orfrom head to tail:they are wholly covered with very fmall fquama?,vibrate their tail, and dart f@rth and brandifh theirforked tongue after the manner of ferpents, when theyare furprifcd or in purfuit of their prey, which arefcarabei, lacuflfe, mufci, and other infcfts; but Ido not learn that their bite is poifonous, yet I haveobKTved cats to be fick foon after eating them.i\tt.'r paffirjg over this extenfive, level, hard, wetfavanna, we croiTed a fine brook or rivulet j thewzzzv cool and pleafant ; its banks adorned with varieciesof tiees and flirubs, particularly the dehcatecyiiila, racemiBora, chionanthus, clethra, nyifaiyivacica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formqfiliima:anu here were great quantities of a verylarge

;NORTH AMERICA.I7Iiafo-e and beautiful filix ofmunda, growing in greatjufts or clumps. Afcer leaving the rivulet, we palledover a wet, hard, level glade or down, coveredwith a fine Ihort grafs, with abundance of low fawpalmetto, and a few fhrubby pine trees, quercus nigra,quercus finuata or fcarlet oak : then the pathdefcends to a wet bay-gale j the ground a hard, fine,white land, covered with black flufh, which continuesabove two miles, when it gently riles the higherfand hills, and diredly after pafles through a finegrove of young long-leaved pines. The foil fecmedhere loole, brown, coarfe, fandy loam, though fertile.The afcent of the hill, ornamented with a varietyand profufion of herbaceous planes and gralTes,particularly amaryllis atamafco, clitoria, phlox, ipomea,convolvulus, verbena corymbcfa, rucliia, viola,&c. A magnificent grove of {lately pines, fucceedingto the expanfive wild plains we had a longtime traverfed, had a pleafing effed:, roufing thefaculties of the mind, awakening the imagination byits fublimity, and arrefting every aftive, inquifitiveidea, by tiie variety of the fcenery, and the folemnfymphony of the fteady Weftern breezes, playingincelTantly, rifing and falling through the thick andwavy foliage.The pine groves pafled, we immediately find ourfelveson the entrance of the expanfive airy pine forefts,on parallel chains of low fwelling mounds,called the Sand Hills j their afcent fo eafy, as to bealmoll imperceptible to the progreffive travelleryet at a diftant view before us in fome degree exhibitthe appearance of the mountainous fwell ofthe ocean immediately after a tempeftj but yet, aswe approach them, they infenfibly difappear, andieem to be loll j and we Ihould be ready to concludeall

172 TRAVELS IMall to be a vifionary fcene, were it not for the fpark-Jing ponds and lakes, which at the fame time gleamthrough the open forefts, before us and on tvcrjfide, retaining them in the eye, until we comeup with them. And at laft the imagination remainsflattered and dubious, by their uniformity,Being moftly circular or elliptical, and almoft furroundedwith expanfive green meadows ; and alwaysa pi6luref ^a. dark gro/e of live oak, magnolia,gordonia, and the fragrant orange, encirclinga rocky fhaded grotto of tranfparent water, onfome border of the pond or lake j which, withoutthe aid of any poetic fable, one might naturallyfuppofe to be the facred abode or temporary refi-(dence of the guardian fpirit ; but is a6tually thepolTefTion and retreat of a thundering abfolute crocodile.Arrived early in the evening at the Halfwaypond, where we encamped and ilayed all night.This lake fpreads itfelf in a fpacious meadow, beneatha chain of elevated fand-hills : the Iheet ofwater at this tinT,e was about: three miles in circumferenceJ the upper end, jiift under the hillsfurrounded by a crefcent of dark groves, whichffiaded a rocky grotto. Near this place was a (lopinggreen bank, terminating by a point of flatlocks, which projefted into the lake, and formedone point of the crefcent that partly furrounded thevaft grotto or bafon of tranfparent waters, whichis called by the traders a fink- hole, a fingalar kindof vortf'x or conduit, to the fubterranean recepitaclesof the waters ; but though the waters of thef

NORTH AMERICA,^Jmeandering channel winding through the favannasor meadows, which receives the waters fpread overthem, by feveral lateral Imaller branches, flowlyconveying them along into the lake, and finally intothe bafon, and with them nations of the finnytribes.Juft by the little cape of flat rocks, we fixed ourencampment, where I enjoyed a comprehenfive andvaried fcene, the verdant meadows fpread abroad,charmingly decorated by green points of gralTy lawnsand dark promontories of wood land, projecting int-ethe green plains.Behold now at ftlll evening, the fun yet llreakingthe embroidered favannas, armies of fifh were piirfuingtheir pilgrimage to the grand pellucid f)untain^and when here arrived, all quiet and peaceable, encirclingthe little ceruJean hemifphere, they defcendinto the dark caverns of the earth j where, probably,they are feparated from each other, by innumerablepaths, or fecret rocky avenues ; and after encounteringvarious obilacles, and beholding new and unthought-offcenes of pleafure and difguft, after manydays ab fence from the furface of the world emergeagain from the dreary vaults, and appear exulting ingladnefs, and fporcing in the tranlparent waters offome far diftant lake.The various kind of fifh and amphibious animals,that inhabit thefe inland lakes and waters, maybe mentioned here, as many of them here affembled,pafs and repafs in the lucid grotto : firft thecrocodile alligator : the great brown fpotted garr,accoutred in an impenetrable coat of mail :this ad-^mirable animal may be termed a cannibal amongftfiilij as filli are his prey j when fully grown he isfron:*

';.174 Travels i^from five to fix feet in length, and of proportionablethicknefs, of a dufky brown colour, fpotted withrblack. The Indians make ufe of their fiiarp teeth:to fcratch or bleed themfelves with, and their pointedfcalcs to arm their arrows. This filli is fometimeseaten, and, to prepare them for food, they coverthem whole in hot embers, v/here they bxke them ;the flcin with the fcales eafily peels off, leaving themeat white and tender.The mud fiih is large, thick or round, and twofeet in length j his meat v/hite and tender, but foftand tafles of the mud, and is not much efteemed.The great devouring trout and catfifh are in abundance; the golden bream or funfiih, the red belliedbream, the filver or white bream, the great yellowand great black or blue bream, alfo abound here.The iaft of thefe m.entioned, is a large, beautifuljand delicious fifh iv/hen full grown tiiey are nine*nches in length, and five to fix inches in breadththe whole body is of a dull blue or indigo colour,marked v/ith tranfverfe lifts or zones of a darker colour,fcatteringly pov/dered with fky blue, gold andred fpecks ; fins and tail of a dark purple or lividfleili colour ;the ultimate angle of the branchioftegaformjincr a fparula, the extreme end of which isbroad and circular, terminating like the feather ofthe peacock's train, and having a brilliant fpot or eyelike it, being delicately painted with a fringed borderof a fire colour.Tlie great yellov/ or particoloured bream is irfform and proportion much like the forcmentioned,but larger, from a foot to fifteen inches in length ;his back from, head to tail is of a dark clay and dufkycolour, with tranfverfe dallies or blotches, of red-diili dull purple, or bluiili, according to different4expofures

jPL.//^,w/ ./y/-.////^y//^v//v.//' {

NORTH AMERICA.JJcxpofures to light ; the fides and belly of a brightpale yellow; the belly faintly ftained with vernnilionred, infenfibly blended with the yellow on the fides,and all garnifhed with fiery, blue, green, gold andfilver fpecks on the fcales ; the branchioftega is of ayellowilh clay or ftraw colour ; the lower edge orborder next the opening of the gills, is near a quarterof an inch in breadth, of a fea green or marineblue; the ulterior angle protends backwardsto a confiderable length, in the form of a fpatula orfeather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of adeep black or crow colour, reflecting green andblue, and bordered round with fiery red, fomewhatlike red fealing-wax, reprefenting a brilliant ruby onthe fide of the fifh ; the fins reddifli, edged with adove-colour : it is defervedly efteemed a mofl excellentfifh.Here are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes, andthey are very large when full grown, fromponds of Eaft Florida, the great foft-fhelled tortoifes* :twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extremelyfat and delicious, but if eaten to excefs, are apt topurge people not accuftomed to eat their meat.They are flat and very thin ; two feet and a halfin length, and eighteen inches in breadth acrofs theback J in form, appearance, and texture, very muchrefembling the fea turtle : the whole back ihell,except the vertebra or ridge, which is not at allprominent, and ribs on each fide, is foft or cartilaginous,and eafily reduced to a jelly when boiled; the anterior and pofterior extremities of theback ihell, appear to be emboflTed with round,• Teftudo naf« cylinUraceo e'ongato, tfuneato.horny

;1*76 TRAVELS INhorny warts 6r tubercles ;the belly or nether Ihellis but fmall and femicartilaginous, except a narrowcrofs bar connefting it at each end with thetack Ihell, which is hard and ofleous i the head islaro^e and clubbed, of nearly an oval form ; the uppermandible, however, is protended forward, andtruncated, fomewhat refembling a fwine's fnout, atthe extreme end of which the noftrils are placedon each fide of the root- or bafe of this probofcis arethe eyes, which are large ; the upper beak is hookedand fharp, like a hawk's bill j the lips and cornersof the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled, and barbed,with long pointed warts, which he can projectand contradt at pleafure, which gives the creaturea frightful and difagreeable countenance. Theybury themfelves in the flufhy bottoms of riversand ponds, under the roots of flags and otheraquatic herbage, leaving a hole or aperture jullfiifficient for their head to play through ; to fuchplaces they withdraw themfelves when hungry, andthere leize their prey by furprife, darting out theirheads as quick as lightning, upon the unwary aniinalthat unfortunately ftrolls witliin their reach:they can extend their neck to a furprifing length,which enables them to feize young fowl fwimmingon the furface of the water above them, which theyinftantly drag down. They are feen to raife theirheads above the furface of the water, in the depthsof the lakes and rivers, and blow, caufing a faintpuffing noife, fomewhat like a porpoife ;probablythis is for paftime, or to charge themfelves with aproper fupply of frefh air. They are carnivorous,feeding on any animal they can feize, particularlyyoung ducks, frogs, and fifli.We had a large and fat one fcrved up for ourfupper.

'^'/./rFl 6

;NORTH AMERICA.I77iupper, which I at firft apprehended we had made avery extravagant wafte of, not being able to confumeone half of its flelh, though excellently wellcooked : my companions, however, feemed regard-being in the midft of plenty and variety, at anylefs,time within our reach, and to be obtained with littleor no trouble or fatigue on our part ; when herds ofdeer were feeding in the green meadows before u5flocks of turkeys walking in the: groves around us,and myriads of fiih, of the greateft variety and delicacy,{porting in the cryftalline floods before oureyes.The vultures and raVens, crouched on the crookedlimbs of the lofty pines, at a little diftance fromus, fharpening their beaks, in low debate, waiting toregale themfelves on the off'als, after our departiirefrom camp.At the return of the morning, by the powerfulinfluence of light, the pulfe of n

lySTRAVELS INand ponds more expanfive ; the fummits of the ridgeamore gravelly ; here and there, heaps or piles ofrocks, emerging out of the fand and gravel :theferocks are the fame fort of concrete of fand and fhellsas noticed at St. Juan's and the great lake. Thevegetable produ

NORTH AMERICA.I79phora, glycine, vitia, clitorea, ipomea, iirtica,falviairraveolens, viola, and many more. How cheerfuland Ibcial is the rural converle of the various tribesof tree frogs, whilft they look to heaven for prolificfhowers ! How harmonious the flTril! tuneful fongsof the wood thrufli, and the foothing love lays ofthe amorous cuckoo *, feated in the cool leafybranches of the (lately magnolias and fhadowy elms,maples and liquidambar, together with gigantic fagusfylvatica, which fhade and perfume thefe fequefteredgroves ! How unexpeded and enchanting theenjoyment, after traverfing a burning fandy defert!Now, again, we behold the open pine forefts, andafcend the fandy hills, which continue for fome miles,then gently defcend again, when a level expanfivefavanna plain prefents itfelf to view, which, after entering,and proceeding on, becomes wet and coveredby a fine lliort grafs, with extenfive parterres of thedwarf creeping palmetto, its ftipes fharply toothedor ferrated, together with clumps of low Ihrubs, askalmia, Andromeda, annona pygmea, myrica cerifera,empetrum, vaccinium, and others.We now afcend a little again, and pafs through anarrow pine foreft ; when fuddenly opens to view avaftly extenfive and fedgy marfh, expanding Southerlylike an open fan, feemingly asboundiefs as thegreat ocean: our road croffing the head of it,about three hundred yards over; the bottom herewas hard fand, a foot or more under a foft muddyfurface. The tra'ders informed m.e, that thele vadmarflies lie on the borders of a great lake, manymiles in length, in magnitude exceeding Lake* CaciiUis Caro'iinienfis.N 2George,

iSO TRAVELS IMGeorge, and communicating with St. Juan's by ariver * j its confluence above the lower ftore at theLittle Lake.Obferved as we pafTed over the fame hills, thedens of the great land tortoife, called gopher : thisftrange creature remains yet undefcribed by hiftoriansand travellers. The firft iigns of this animaFsexiftence, as we travel Southerly, are immediatelyafter we crofs the Savanna River. It is to be feenonly on the high diy fand hills. When arrivedat its greateft magnitude, the upper Ihell is neareighteen Inches in length, and ten or twelve inchesin breadth j the back is very high, and the Ihcllof a very hard bony fubHance, confifling of manyregular compartments, united by futures, in themanner of the other fpecies of tortoife, and coveredwith thin horny plates. The nether or belly fhellis large, and regularly divided tranfverfeiy intofive parts : thefe compartments are not knit togetherlike the futures of the fkuli, or the back fhellof the tortoife, but adhere, or are conne6ted togetherby a very ridgy horny cartilage, which fervesas hinges for him to fhut up his body within hisfliell at pleafure. The fore part of the belly fhelltowards its extremity is formed fomewhat like afpade, extends forward near three inches, and isabout an inch and an half in breadth ; its extremityis a little bilid ; the pofterior divifion of the bellyfhell is likewife protended backwards confiderably,and is deeply bifurcated.The legs and fjet are covered with fiat hornyfquamrc ; he ferms to have no clefts in them ortoes, but long flattifli nails or talons, fomewhat in* Great Ockli-Waha.refemblance

;NORTH AMERICA.l8lrefemblance to the nails of the human fingers, fiveon the fore feet; the hind legs or feet appear as iftruncated, or as ftumps of feet, armed all roundwith fharp, flattifh ftrong nails, the number undeterminedor irregular; the head is of a moderatefize ; the upper mandible a little hooked, the edgeshard and fharp ; the eyes are large ; the nofe picked; the noftrils near together and very minutethe general colour of the animal is a light afh orclay, and at a diftance, unlefs it is in motion, anyone would difregard or overlook it as a done oran old (lump. It is aftonifhing what a weight oneof thefe creatures will bear; it will eafily carry anyman (landing on its back, on level ground. Theyform great and deep dens in the fand hills, caftingout incredible quantities of earth. They are eileemcdexcellent food. I'he eggs are larger than amufket ball, perfectly round, and the Iheil hard.After crofllng over this point or branch of themarfhes, we entered a noble foreft, the land level,and the foil fertile, being a loofe, dark brown, coarfefandy loam, on a clay or mariey foundation : theforeft confifted of orange groves, overtopped bygrand magnolias, palms, live oaks, juglans cinerea,morus rubra, fagus fylvatica, tilia, and liquidambar;with various kinds of flirubs and herbaceous plants,particularly callicarpa, halefia, fambucus, zanthoxylon,ptelea, rhamnus frangula, rudbeckia, filphium,polymnia, indigo fera, fophora, falvia graveolens,&c. We were cheerfully received in thishofpitable fliade, by various tribes of birds; theirfprightly fongs feemed a prelude to the vicinity ofhuman habitations. This magnificent grove was awmg of the vaftforefts lying upon the coaft of thegreat and beautiful lake of Cufcowilla, at no greatN 2diftance

'l8'2 TRAVELS Iff*diftance from ns. Continuing eight or nine milesthrough thi.s lublinne foreft, we entered on an openforeft of lofty pines and oaks, on gently fwclling fandhills, and prefently faw the lake, its waters fparklingthrough the open groves. Near the path was a largeartificialmound of earth, on a moft charming, highfituation, fuppofed to be the work of the ancientFloridans or Yamafees j with other traces of an Indiantown. Here were three or four Indian habitationsj the women and children faiuted us withcheerfulnefs and complaifance. After riding near amile farther, we arrived at Cufcowilla, near thebanks : a pretty brook of water ran through thetown, and entered the lake juft by.We were welcomed to the town, and conducedby the young men and maidens to the chief's houfe,which ftood on an eminence, and was diftinguifhedfrom the reft by its fuperior magnitude, a large flagbeing hoiftcd on a high ftafF at one corner, Weimmediately alighted: the chief, who is called theCowkeeper, attended by Jeveral ancient men, cameto us, and in a very free and fociable manner, fnookour hands, or rather arms, (a form of falutation peculiarto the American Indians) faying at the fametime, " You are come." We followed him to anapartment prepared for the reception of theirguefts.The pipe being filled, it is handed around ; afterwhich a large bov/l, v/ith what they call " thindrink," is brough; in and let down on a fmall lowtable. In this bowl is a great wooden ladle; eachperfon takes up in it:as much as he pieafes, and afterdrinking until fatisfied, returns it again into thebowl, pulliing the handle towards the next perfon inthe circle ; and fo it goes round.After

NORTH AMERICA.ig^After the ufual compliments and inquiries relativeto our adventures, &c. the chief trader informedthe Cowkeeper, in the prefence of his council orattendants, the purport of our bufinefs, with whichhe expreifTed his fatisfaftion. He was then informedwhat the nature of my errand was, and he receivedme with complaifance, giving me unlimited permillionto travel over the country for the purpofeof collefling flowers, medicinal plants, &c. falutingme by the name of Puc Puggy, or the Flowerhunter, recommending me to the friendfliip andprotection of his people.The next day being agreed on to hold a counciland tranfa6b the bufinefs of our embaify, we acquaintedthe chief with our intention of making ourencampment on the borders of the great AlachuaSAVANNA, and to return at the time appointed totown, to attend the council according to agreement.Soon after we had fixed on the time and mannerof proceeding on the further fettlement of the treaty,a confiderable number of Indians alTembled aroundtheir chief, when the converlation turned to commonand familiar topics.The chief is a tall well made man, very affableand cheerful, about fixty years of age, his eyes livelyand full of fire, his countenance manly and placid,yet ferocious, or what we call favage, his nofe aquiline,his drefs extremely fimple, but his head trimmedand ornamented in the true Creek mode. Hehas been a great warrior, having then attendinghim as flaves, many Yamafee captives, taken byhimfelf when young. They were drefled betterN 4than

184 TRAVELS IN^han he, and ^erved and waited upon him with fignsof the mod abje(5b fear. The manners andcuftonnsof the Alachuas, and molt of the lower Creeks orSiminoles, appear evidently tinctured with Spanifhcivilization Their religious and civil ufages manifefta prediledion for the Spanifh cuftoms. Thereare feveral Chriftians among thern, many of whomwear litde filver crucifixes, affixed to a wampum,collar round their necks, or fufpendtd by a fmallchain upon their breaft. Thefe are faid to be baptized;and notwithftanding mofc of them fpcak andunderftand Spanifli, yet they have been the moftbitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniardsever had. The ilaves, both male and female, arepermitted to marry amongll them : their childrenare free, and considered in every refped equal tothemfelves j but the parents continue in a ftate offlavery as long as they live.In obferving thefe flaves, we behold at once, intheir countenance and manners, the ftriking contrafbbetwixt a ftate of freedom and flavery. They ar>ethe tameft, the moft abjeft creatures that we canpoffibly imagine: mild, peaceable, and tradable,they feem to have no will or power to aft but 4sdirefted by their mafters ; whilft the free Indians,on the contrary, are bold, adlive, and clamorous.They differ as widely from each other as the bullfrom the ox.The repaft is now brought in, confifting of venifon,ftewed with bear's oil, frefh corn cakes, milk,and homony ; and our drink, honey and water, verytool and agreeable. After partaking of this banquet,we took leave and departed fo.r. yanna.the great fii-We

NORTH y^MERICA.jgjWe foon entered a level, grafly plain, interfperfedwith low, fpreading, three -leaved Pine-;rees,large patches of low flirubs, confiding of Prinosglaber, low Myrica, Kaln^a glauca, Andromedas offeveral fpecies, and many other flirubs, with patchesof Palmetto. We continued travelling throughthis favanna or bay-gale, near two miles, when theland afcends a little ; we then entered a liommockor dark grove, confifting of various kinds of trees,as the Magnolia grandiflora, Corypha palma. CitrusAurantium, Qyercus fempervirers, Morus rubra,Uimus fylvatica, Tilia, Juglans cinerea, iEfculus p^via,Liquidambar, Laurus Eorbonia, Hopea tinftoria,Cercis, Cornus Florida, Halefia diptera, Halefiatetraptera, Olea Americana, Caliicarpa, Andromedaarborea, Syderoxylon fericium, Sid. tenax,Vitis labrufc?., Hedera arborea, Hedera quinquefo-Ha, Rhamnus volubiiis, Prunus Caroliniana (pr. flor.racemofis, foliis fempervirentibus, lato-lanceolatis,acuminatis, ferratis) Fagus fylvatica, Zanthoxylonclava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Fraxinusexcelfior, with many others already mentioned.The land ftill gently rifing, the foil fertile,loofe, loamy, and of a dark brown colour. Thiscontinues near a mile ; when at once opens to viewthe mod fjddt-n tranfition from darkntfs to light,that can pofTibiy be exhibited in a natural landfcape.The extenfive Alachua favanna Is a level greenplain, above fifteen miles over, fifty miles in circumference,and fcarcely a tree or bulh of any kindto be feen on it. It is encircled with high, flopinghills, covered widi waving forefts and fragrantOrange groves, rifing from an exuberantly fertile foil.The towering magnolia grandiflora and tranfcendent

$86 TRAVELS INdent Palm, fland confpicuoiis amongfl them. Atthe fame time are leen innumerable droves of cattle; the lordly bull, lowing cow, and Ileek capriciousheifer. The hills and groves re-echo theircheerful, focial voices. Herds of fprightly deer,fquadrons of the beautiful fleet Siminole horfe,.flocks of turkeys, civilized communities of the fonorouswatchful crane, mix together, appearinghappy and contented in the enjoyment of peace,till diPturbed and affrighted by the warrior man.Behold yonder, coming upon them through thedarkened groves, fneakingly and unawares, thenaked red warrior, invading the Elyfian fields andgreen plains of Alachua. At the terrible appearanceof the painted, fearlefs, uncontrouled, and freeSiminole, the peaceful innocent nations are at oncethrown into diforder and dihiiay. See the differenttribes and bands, how they draw towards eachother ! as it were deliberating upon the generalgood. Suddenly they fpeed off with their youngin the centre ; but the roebuck fears him not : herehe lays himfelf down, bathes and flounces in thecoo' flood. The red warrior, whofe plumed headilafhes lightning, whoops in vain j his proud ambitioushorfe ftrains and pants ; the earth glidesfrom under his fetty his flov/ing m.ane whifl;les in thewind, as he comes up full of vain hopes. Thebounding roe views his rapid approaches, rifes up,lilts aloft his antlered head, cre6ts the white flag*,and fetching a flirill whittle, fays to his fleet and freeaffociates, " follov/ i" he bounds off, and in a fevvminutes diftances his foe a mile ; fuddenly he fl:ops,turns about, u-'id laughing fays, " how vain ! gochafe meteois in the azure plains above, or huntbutterflies in the fields about your towns."* AUudiuc, to hbtail.We

NORTH AMERICA. I 87We approached the favanna at the fouth end bya narrow ifthmus of level ground, open to die ligh.tof day, and dear of trees or biiflies, and not greuelyelevated above the common level, having on ourright a fpacious meadow, embellifhed with ii iiitlelake, one verge of which was not very diftant fromus J its fhore is ? moderate Iv high, circular bink,partly encircling a cove of the pond, in the formof a half moon; the water is clear ond deep, and,at the diilance of fome hundred yards, was a largefloating field (if I may lb exprefs myfelf ) of theNymphsea ntiuinbo, wid^ their golden bJolToms wavingto and fro on their Irfcy Items. Ijc-yond thefefields ofNymphiEa were fpacious plains, encon'.palTedby dark groves, onening to extjnfive Pine forefls,other plains Itill appearing beyond them.This little lake and furrounding meadows wouldhave been alone fufficient to furprift .md deliglr: thetraveller ; but being placed fo near the great favanna,the attention is quickly drawn off, and whollyengaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, varied,and truly aftonilliing native v.ild iccnes oflandfcape and perfpeftive, there exhibited : hov/is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus,as it were, placed on the borders of a new world IOn the firfl: view of fuch an amazing difplay of thewifdom and power of the fupreme author of nature,the mind for a moment feems fufpended, and imprelTedwith awe.This ifthmus being the common avenue or roadof Indian travellers, we pitched our camp at a fmalldiltance from it, on a rifing knoll near the vergeof the favanna, under fome fpreading Live Oaks :this fituation was open and airy, and gave us an unboundedprofped: over the adjacent plains. Dewy4 evening

1 88 TRAVELS INevening now came onj the animating breezes,which cooled and tempered the meridian hoursof this fukry feafon, now gently ceafed ithe gloriousfovereign ofthe day, calling in his bright beamingemanations, left us in his abfence to the mildergovernment and protecflion of the filver qu

NORTH AMERICA.l8^Upon our arrival we repaired to the public fquareor council-houfe, where the chiefs and fenators werealready convened ; the warriors and young men atfembledfoon after, the bufinefs being tranlacledin public. As it was no more than a ratificationof the late treaty of St. Auguiline, with fome particularcommercial ftipulations, with refpeft to thecitizens of Alachua, the negotiations foon terminatedto the fatisfaftion of both parties.The banquet fucceeded ;the ribs and choiceft fatpieces of the bullocks, excellently well barbecued,were brought into the apartment of the public fquare,conftrudled and appointed for fcafting ; bov/ls andkettles of ilewed ficlh and broth were brought in forthe next courfe, and v/ith it a very fingular difh,the traders call it tripe foup j it is made of the bellyor paunch of the beef, not overclcanfed of itscontents, cut and minced pretty fine, and thenmade into a thin foup, feafoned well with fait andaromatic herbs ; but the feafoning not quite ftrongenough to extinguifh its original favour and fcent.This difli is greatly eiieemed by the Indians, butis, in my judgm.ent, the lead agreeable they haveamongft them.The town of Cufcowilla, which is the capital ofthe Alachua tribe, contains about thirty habitations,each of which confifts of two houfes nearly the famefize, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide,and about the fame in height. The door is placedmidwiy on one fide or in the front. This houfeis divided equally, acrofs, into two apartments, oneof which is the cook room and common hall, andthe other the lodging room. The other houfe isnearly of the fame dimenfions, {landing about twtiityyards from the dwelling houfe, its end frontingthe

the190 TRAVELS IWthe door. The building is two ftories hlgh> an

NORTH AMERICA.I5IHa, Live Oaks, and others already noticed; and theoppofite point of the crefcent, gradually retires withhommocky projefting points, indenting the grafTymarlhes, and laftly terminates in infinite greenplains and meadows, united with the ikies and watersof the lake. Such a natural landfcape, fuch :irural fcene, is not to be imitated by the united ingenuityand labour of man. At prefent the groundbetwixt the town and the lake is adorned by anopen grove of very tall Pine trees, which ftandingat a confiderable diftance from each other, adnit adelightful profped: of the fparkling waters. Thelake abounds with various excellent fifn and wildfowl ; there are incredible numbers of the latter,efpecially in the winter ieafon, when they arrivehere from the north to winter.The Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua townon the borders of the favanna, and built here, callingthe new town Cufcowilla : their reafons for removingtheir habitation were on account of its unhealthinefs,occafioned, as they fay, by the flencliand reptiles in the fummer and au-of the putrid fifhtumn, driven on fhore by the alligators, and theexhalations from marfhes of the favanna, togetherwith the perfecutions of the mufquitoes.They plant but little here about the town ; onlya fmall garden pot at each habitation, confiihn'^of a little Corn, Beans, Tobacco, Citruls, &c.Their plantation, which fupplies them with the chiefof their vegetable provifions, fuch as Zea, Convolvulusbatata, Cucurbita citrulus. Cue. lagencria.Cue. pepo, Cue. melopepo, Cue. verrucofi, Dolichosvarieties, &c. lies on the rich prohfic landsbordering on the great Alachua favanna, about twomiles diftanpe.This plantation is one common enclofure.

clofure, and is worked and tended by the whofecommunity; yet every family has ics particularpart, according to its own appointment, marked offwhen planted ; and this portion receives the commonlabour and afTiilance until ripe, when each familygathers and depoiits in its granary its own properflure, fetting apart a fmall gift or contributionfor the public granary, which ftands in the centre oftlieplantation.The youth, under the fupervifal of fome of theirancient people, are daily ftationed in the fields,and are continually whooping and hallooing, tochafe av.ay crows, jackdaws, black-birds, and fuchpredatory animals j and the lads are armed withbows and arrows, and being trained up to it fromtheir early youth, are fure at a mark, and in thecourle of the day load themfelves with fquirrels,birdc, &c. The men in turn patrole the cornfields at night, to prote£t their provifions from thedepredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons,and deer; the two form.er being immoderately fondof young corn, when the grain is filled with a richmilk, as fweet and nourifliing as cream ; and thedeer are as fond of the Potatoe vines.Afcer the fcaft was over, v/e reti'med to our encampmenton the great favanna, towards the evening.Our companions whom v/e left at iht camp,were impatitnt for our return, having been outhorle hunting in the plains and groves during ourabfence. They fjon left us, on a vifit to die town,having there fome female friends, with whom theywere anxieus to renew their acquaintance. TheSiminole girls are by no means deititute oi charmsto pleafe the lougher fex : the white traders arefuily fcnlible how gready it is to their advantageto

ICORTH AMERICA. 1^3to o-ain their affections and friendfhip in matters oftrade and commerce ; and if their love and eftccmfor each other is fincere, and upon principles of reciprocity,there are but few inftances of their negk(flingor betraying t'le intcrefts and views of theirtemporary hufbands j they labour and watch conftantlyto promote their private interefts, and deteftand prevent any plots or evil deilgns Vvliich maythreaten their perfons, or operate againft their tradeor bufinefs.In the cool of the evening I embraced the opportunityof making a folitary excurfion round the adjacentlawns. Taking mv fuzee with me, I fooncame up to a little clump of flirubs, upon a fvvellinggreen knoll, where I obferved fevcral largefnakes entwined together. I ftepped up near them ;they appeared to be itinocent and peaceable, havingno inclination to ftrike at any thing, though I endeavouredto irritate them, in order to difcovertheir difpofition ; nor were they anxious to efcapefrom me. Thisfnake is about four feet in length,and as thick as a man's wrill ; the upper fide of adirty alli colour} the fquams large, ridged, andpointed j the belly or under fide of a reddiih dullflefh colour;the tail part not long, but flender, likemod other innocent fnakes. They prey on rats,land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left them,continuing my piogrefs and refearches, delightedwith the ample profpefls around and over the favanna.Stopping again at a natural fhrubbery, on turningmy eyes to fome flowering Ihrubs, I obfervednear my feet the furprifing glafs fnake (anguiifragilis). It feems as innocent and harmlefs asa worm. It is, when full grown, two feet andOan

;i^-^ "fRAVELS i}fan half in length, and three- fourths of an Inch mthicknel's; the abdomen or body part is remarkablyfhort, and it ieems to be all tail, which, thoughlong, gradually attenuates to its extremity, yet nocfmall and [lender as in fwitch fnakes. The colourand texture of the whole animal is exa6lly likebluiih green glafs, which, together with its fragility,almoft perfuades a ftranger that it is in realityof that brittle iiibftance r but it i^ only the tailpart that breaks off, which it does like glafs, by avery gentle ftroke from a flender fwitch. Thoughk is quick and nimble in twifting about, yet itcannot run fafk from one, but quickly fecrets itfelfat the bottom of the grafs or under leaves,.It is a vulgar fable, that it is able to repairitfelf after being broken into feveral piecesTvhich pi

NORTH AMERICA.Tg^being the moil: int'jlligent and willing to oblige me.We coafted the green verge of the plain, under thefurroimdin.^ hills, occafionally penetrating and croffmgthe piojefting promontories, as tlie pathwayor convenicncy di Stated, to avoid ihe waters andmud which ftill continued deep and boggy near theflecp hills, in fpringy places ; lo that when we cameto fuch places, we found it convenient to afcendand coaft round the fides of the hills, or flirike outa little into the favanna, to a moderately fwellingridge, where the ground being dry, and a delightfulgreen turf, was pleafant travelling; but then wewere under the necefiity of fording creeks or rivulets,which are the conduits or drains of the fliallowboggy ponds or morafies juft under the hills.This range c/ chain of morafies continues round thefouth and ibuLh-weil: border of the lavanna, andappeared to me to be fed or occafioned by thegreat wet bay-gale or lavanna Pine lands, which lieimimediately back of the high hilly forefts on thegreat favanna, part of which we crofled in comingfrom Cufcowilla; which bottom is a flat, level, hardfand, lying between the fand ridge of Cufcowillaand thefe eminences of the great favanna ; and is avaft receptacle or refervoir of the rain waters, whichbeing defended from the a6live and powerful exhalationsof the meridian fun, by the fhadow of thePine trees, low fhrubs, and grafs, gradually filteringthrough the land, drain dirough thefe liiils, andprefent themfelves in innumerable litde meanderingrills, at the bafes of the fliady heights frontingthe favanna.Our progrefs this day was extremely pleafant,over the green turf, having in view numerous herdsof cattle and deer, and fquadrons of horfe, peaceablybrowzing on the tender, fweet grafs, or drollingO 2throush

J 9^ TRAVELS Iffthrciigh the cool fragrant groves on the furroundlngheights.Befide the continued Orange groves, thefe height?abound with Palnns, Magnohas, Red Bays, Liquidambar,and Fagus fylvatica of incredible magnitude,their truni

NORTH AMERICA.I97Vith myfeirin company, continued cur former roi't,coafting the favanna W. and N. VV".; and by ug cementwe were all to meet again at night, at the ii.end of the favanna.We continued fome miles croHlng over, from promontoryto promontory, the moll enchanting greencoves and villas, fcoUoping and indciiting the highcoafts of the vafl plain. Obferving a company ofwolves (lupus niger) under a few trees, about aquarter of a mile from Ihore, we rode up towardsthem} they obferving our approach, fat on theirhinder parts until we came nearly within fhot ofthemi, when they trotted oJEF tjwards the forells,but Hopped again and locked at us, at about twohundred yards dift.ance: we then whooped, andmade a feint to purfue them ; when they iepar..tedfrom each other, fome llretching off into t!-ie plains,and others fceking covert in the groves on ihore.oeenWhen we got to the tree^, we obferved chty ha 1feeding on the carcafe of a horfc. Tne wjl^^es ofFlorida are larger than a dog, and are pcrfcillyblack, except the females, which have a white fpoton the bread ; but they are not fo large as thewolves of Canada and Pennfyivania, which are of ayellowifh brown colour. 1 here were a number ofvultures on the trees over the carcaft, who, as foonas the wolves ran off, immediacely fett'ed downupon it; they were however held in refrraintfind fubordination by the bald eagle (faico ieucocephalus).On our route near a long projected point of thecoaft, we obferved a large dock of turkeys : atpur approach thev hallened to the groves, vN'e f iongained the promontory. On die afcenJing nids werevtiliges of an ancient Indian town, now overfiia-O 3dowTci

198 TRAVELS INdowed with groves of the Orange, loaded widi bothgreen and ripe fruit, and embelliihed with theirfragrant bloom, gratifying the tafte, the fight, andthe fmell at the fame inftant. Leaving this delightfulretreat, we foon came to the verge of the groves,when prefented to view a vail verdant bay of thefavanna.We difcovered a herd of deer feeding ata fmall diftance 3 upon the fight of us they ran off*,taking fhelter in the groves on the oppofite pointor cape of this fpacious meadov/. My companionsbeing old expert hunters, quickly concerted a planfor their defhrudlion. One of our company immediatelyftruck ofi^,obliquely crofTing the meadow forthe oppofite groves, in order to intercept them,if they fhould continue their courfe up the forefl:, tothe iTjain ; and we croffed llraight over to the point,if pofTible to keep them in fight, and watch theirjnotions, knowing that they would make a ftandthereabouts, before they would attempt their laflefcape. On drawing near the point, we flackencdour pace, and cautioufly entered the groves ; v/henwe beheld them thoughtlefs and fecure, flouncingin a fparkling pond; in a green meadow or covebi.-yond the point ; forne were lying down on theirfides in the cool waters, whilfl: others were prancinglike young kids; the young bucks in playfomefport, v/ith their fiiarp horns hooking and fpurringtlie others, urging them to fplafii the water.I endeavoured to plead for their lives ; but myold friend, though he was a fenfibie rational andgood fort of m.an, would not yield to my philofophy.Pe requefied mc to mii.d our horfes, while heinade his approaches, cautioufiy gaining ground onthem, from tree to tree, when they ail fuddenlyfpiT.ng up and herded together : a princely buck,who headed the party, wliiilied and bounded off;2 hi*

NORTH AMERICA.T^^!iis retinue followed ; but unfortunately for theirchief, he led them with prodigious fpeed out towardsthe favanna very near us, and when paffingby, the lucky old hunter fired and laid him proltrateupon the green turf, but a few yards from us.His affiighted followers at the inilant fprang off iaevery diredion, Itreaming away like meteors orphantoms, and we quickly lofb fight of them.Heopened his body, took out the eniirsils, and placedthe carcafc in the fork of a tree, caftiiig his frockor hunting fhirt over to proteft it from the vulturesand crows, who follow the hunter as regularly ashis own ihade.Our companions foon arrived. We fet forwardagain, enjoying the like fcenes v/e had already paft jobferved parties of Siminole horfes courfing overthe plains, and frequently faw deer, turkeys, andwolves, but they knew their fafety here, keepingfar enough out of our reach. The wary, fharpfightedcrane, circumfpedly obferved our progrefs.We faw a female of them fitting on her neft, aridthe male, her mate, watchfully trave fing backwardsand forwards, at a fmall diftance ; they fufferedus to approach near them before they arofe,when they ^read their wings, running and tippingthe ground with their feet fome time, and thenmounted aloft, foaring round and round over theneft. They fit upon only two €ggs at a time, whiciiare very large, long^ and pointed at one (^nd, of apale afh colour, powdered or fpecklcd wkh brov/n.The manner of forming their neds and fitting isvery fingular : choofing a tufix>ck, and there forminga rude heap of dry grafs, or fuch like materials^near as high as their body is from the ground, wheaiianding upon their feet, on the fummit of thisO 4they

200 TRAVELS INthey form the neft of fine foft dry grafs. When theycover their eggs to hatch them, they ftand over them.bearing their bodies and wings over the eggs.V/e again came up to a long proje

NORTH AMERICA.20Xclear water, rolling over gravel and white ilmd,which being brought along with it, in its defcentdown the deeper fandy be^ch, formed an eafy fwellingbank or bar.The waters fpread g.eatly at thisplace, exhibiting a fhallow glittering fheet of clearwater, but jufl; fufficient continually to cover theclear gravelly bed, and feemed to be funk a littlebelow the common furface of the beach. Thisftream, however, is foon feparated into a number ofrivulets, by fmall fandy and gravelly ridges ;and thewaters are finally ftolen away from the fight, by acharming green meadow, but again fccretly unitingunder the tall grafs, form a little creek, meanderingthrough the turfy plain, marking its courfe by reedsand rufhes, which Spring up from its banks, joiningthe main creek that runs through the favanna, andat length delivers the water into the Great Sink.Proceeding about a mile farther, we came up toand croffcd another brook, larger than the former,which exhibited the like delightful appearance.We next paiTed over a level green lawn, a coveof the favanna, and arrived at a hilly grove, Wcalighted in a pleafant vifta, turning our horfes tograze, while we amufcd ourfelves with exploring theborders of the Great Sink In this place a groupof rocky hills almoft furrounds a large bafon, whichis the general receptacle of the water, draining fromevery part of the vaft favanna by lateral conduits,winding about, and one after another joining themain creek or general conductor, which at lengthdelivers them into this fink ; where they defcend byflow degrees, through rocky caverns, into the bowelsof the earth, whence they are carried by fecretfubterraneous channels iqto other receptacles and()afons.

a02TRAVELS INWe afcended a colledlion of eminences, coveredwith dark groves, which is one point of the crefcentthat partly encircles the fink or bafon, open only onthe fide next the favanna, where it is joined to thecrreat channel or general conductor of the waters.From this point over to the opponre point of thea fimilar high rocky promontory)crefcent (which isis about one hundred yards, forming a vaft femicirculircove or baibn, the hills encircling it rifmgvery ftecp fifty or fixty feet high, rocky, perpendicular,and bare of earth next the waters of the bafon.Thefe hills, from the top of the perpendicular,fluted, excavated walls of rock, flant off moderat^^lyup to their fummics, and are covered with a veryfertile, loofe, black earth, which nourifhes and fupportsa dark grove of very large trees, varieties ofihrubs and herbaceous plants. Thefe high forefttrees furrounding the bafon, by their great heightand fpread, fo elredually Jhade the waters, thatcoming fuddenly from the open plains, we feem atonce ihut up in darknefs, and the waters appearblack, yet are clear. When we afcend the top ofthe hills, we perceive the ground to be uneven, byround fwelling points and correfponding hollows,overfpread with gloomy fhade, occafioned by the taHand fpreading trees, fuch as live oak, morus rubra,zanrhoxylon, fapindus, liquidambar, t'lia, laurusbo-.bonia, quercus dentata, juglans cinerea, andothers, together with orange trees of remarkablemagnitude and very fruitful. But that which is moilfint2,ular, and to me unaccountable, is the infundibuliformcavities, even on the top of thefe high hills,fome twenty, thirty, and forty yards acrofs, at theirfuperficial rims exa6lly circular, as if ftruck with acompafs, Hoping gradually inwards to a point at bottom.

NORTH AMERICA.20Jtorn, forming an invened cone, or like the upperwide part of a funnel : the pei-pendiciilar depth ofthem from the common furface is various, fom^e defcendingtwenty feet deep, others almoft to the bedof rocks, which forms tlie foundation or nucleus ofthe hiils, and ind'tcd of the whole country of EaftFlorida: fome of them feem to be nearly filled upwich earth, fvvept in trom the coiv.mon fjrface, butretain the lame uniformity ; though fometimes foclofe together as to be broken one into another.But as I fnall have occafion to fpeak further of theicfmks in the earth hereafter, I turn my obfervationto other objeds in view round about me. In anc]about the Great Sink, are to be feen incredible numbersof crocodiles, fome of which arc of an enormousfize, and view the pailenger with incredible impudenceand avidity ; and at this time they are fo abundant,that, if permitted by them, I could walk overany part of the bafon and the river upon their heads,v/hich flowly float and turn about hke knotty chunksor logs of wood, except v/hen they plunge or fliootforward to beat off their afibciates, prelling too ciofeto each other, or taking up filli, which continuallycrowd in upon them from die river and creeksdr-aining from the favanna, efpecially the great trour,mudfiih, catfifli, and the various ipecies of bream:the gar are rather too hard fjr their jaws and roughfor their throats, efpecially here, where they have afu peril uous pler^ty and variety of thofe that are everyway preferable : beHdeSj the gar being, like themfelves,a warlike voracious creature, they feem to be?in league or confederacy together, to enflave *intldevour the numerous delencclefs tribes.It is aflonifning and incredible, perhaps, I maylay^ to relate what unfpeakable numbers of fifhre-.pair

^04TRAVELS INpair to this fatal fountain or receptacle, during thelatter fummer feafon and autumn, when the powerfulfun-beams have evaporated the waters oiF thefavanna ; where thofe who are fo fortunate as to effefta retreat into the condudor, and efcape the devouringjaws of the fearful alligator and armed gar,defcend into the earth through the wells and cavitiesor vafc perforations of the rccksj and from thenceare conduced and carried away, by fv^cret fubtcrraneanconduits and gloomy vaults, to other difcantlakes and rivers. And it does not appear im.probable,but that in feme future day thisor lake of waters in the v/intervaft favannalealon will h: difcoveredto he in a great meafure filled wiih its finnyinhabitants, who are ftrangers or adventureis fromother lakes, ponds, and rivers, by fubterranecus rivuletsand communications to this rocky, daik dooror cutler, whence they afcend to its furface, fpreadover and people the winter lake, where they breed,increafe, and continue as long as it is under water,or during pleafure, for they are at all feafons ro befeen afcending and defcending through the rocks 1but towards the autumn, vv'hen the waters have almoftleft the plains, they then crowed to the fink infuch multitudes, as at times to be {can prelfing onin great banks into the bafon, being urged by purfuingbands of alligators and gar, and when entciingthe great bafon or fink, are fuddenly fallen upon byanother arrry of the fame devouring cncm.ies, lyingin wait for them. Thoufands are driven on fhorc,where they perilh and rot in banks, which was evidentat the time I was there, the ftench being intolerable,although then early in the himmer. Ihere^re three great doors or vent holes through the rocksin the fmk, two near the centje and the ether onejpear the rim, much higher up than the oiher t^vo,? which

NORTH AMERICA.20^which was confpiciious through the clear water.The beds of rocks lay in horizontal thick ftrata orone over the other, where the fink holes orlaminse,outlets are.Thefe rocks are perforated by perpendicularwells or tubes, four, five, and fix feet indiamece'*, exactly circular as the tube of a cannonor a wailed well ; many of thefe are broken iato oneanother, forming a great ragged orifice, appearingniches or excavations.Having fatisfied my curiofity in viewing thisfluted by alternate jambs and femicircular perpendicularextraordinaryplace and very wonderful work of nature,we repaired to our refting place, where wefound our horfes and m.ounted again ; one of thecompany parted from us for the buck that we hadlliot ami left in the fork of the tree. My friend, theold trader, led the iliortefb way acrofs the plain,after repalfing the wet morafs which had almoftfwum our horfes in the morning. At evening wearrived at the place of our deftination, where ouraffociaces foon after rejoined us with fome Indians^who were merry agreeable guefts as long as theyftaid. They were in full drefs and painted; butbefore dark they mounted their horfes, which wereof the true Siminole breed, fet fpurs to them, utteringall at once a fhrill whoop, and went off forCufcowilla.Though the horned cattle and horfes bred inthefe meadows are large, fleck, fprig'itly, and as:fat as can be in general, yet they are fubject to mortaldifeafes. I obfervcd feveral of them dreadfully,mortified,their thighs and haunches ulcerated, raw,and bleeding, which, like a mortification or flow,cancer, at length puts an end to their miferablc«xi{lence. The traders and Indians call this difeafe

20^TRAVELS meafe the water- rot or fcald, and fay it is occafionedby the warm waters of the favanna, during the heatsof fummer and autumn, when thefe creatures wadedeep to feed on the water-grafs, which they are im--modera'.ely fond of; whereas the cattle which onlyfeed and range in the high forcfts and pine favannasare clear of this diforder. A facrifice to intemperanceand luxury.We had heavy rains during the night, and thoughvery warm, yet no thunder and very little wind. Itcleared away in the morning, and the day was veryJohn's,pleafant. Sat off for the Eaft end of die favanna,collefting by the way and driving before us parties ofhorfes, the property of the traders ; and next morningfat off on our return to the lower {lore on St.coalling the favanna yet a few miles, in expedlationof finding the remainder of their horfes,though dilappointed."We at laft bid adieu to the magnificent plains ofAlachua, entered the pine forefts, and foon fell intothe eld Spanifli highway, from St. Auguftine acrofsthe iilhmus of Florida, to St Mark's in the bay ofApalache. Its courfe and diftance from E. to W.is, from St. Auguftine to Fort Picolata on the riverSt. Juan, twenty-feven miles; thence acrofs theriver to the Poopoa Fort, three miles ; dience tothe Alach'ja Savanna, forty-five miles j thence toTaiahafochte on the river Little St. Juan, feventyfivemiles ; thence down this river to St. Mark's,thirty miles : the whole diftance from St. Auguftineto St. Mark's, one hundred and eighty miles. Butthis road having been unfrequented for many yearspaft, fince the Creeks fubdued the remnant tribesof the ancient Floridans, and drove the Spaniardsfrom their fetdements in Eaft Florida into St. Auguftine,

N-ORTH aIHERTCA. 20/^ftine, which efFeftually cut off theircommunicationbetween that garrifon and St. Mark's j this ancienthighway is grown up in many places with treesand ihrvibs ; but yet has left fo deep a track on thefurface of the earth, that it may be traced for agesyet to come.Leaving the highway on our left hand, we afcendeda fandy ridge, thinly planted by nature with (latelypines and oaks, of the latter genus particularly q.linuata, f. flammula, q. nigra, q. rubra. Faffed byan Indian village fituated on this high airy fandlidge, confifting of four or five habitations ; noneof the people were at home, they were out at theirhunting camps j we obferved plenty of corn in theircribs. Following a hunting path eight or nine miles,through a vaft pine forefl and graffy favanna, welltimbered, the ground covered with a charming carpetof various flowering plants, came tq a largecreek of excellent water, and here we found the encampmentof the Indians, the inhabitants of the littletown we had paffed ; we faw their v/omen and children,the men being out hunting.The women prefentedthemfelves to our view as we came up, at thedoor of their tents, veiled in their rnande, modclllyfhowing their faces, when we faluted them. Towardsthe evening we fell into the old trading path, andbefore night came to camp at the Halfway Pond.Next morning, after collediing together the horfes.Tome of which had fti-olled av^ay ara great dilhnce,we purfued our journey, and in the evening arrivedat the trading houfe on St. Juan's, from a luccefsfuland pleafant tour.On my return to the ftore on St. Juan's the trad- \kig ichooner was there i but as (he was not to return

Bndio8TRAVELS titturn to Georgia until the autumn, I found I Hadtime to purfue my travels in Florida, and might atleifure plan my excurfions to colled feeds and rootsin boxes, &c.At this time the tilks (or meffages between theIndian: and white people) were perfcclly peace:^bleand friendly, both with the Lower Creeks and theNation or Upper Creeks. Parties -f Indians werecoming in tvery day with rhei. hunts j indeed rhe-Mufcogiilges or Upper Creeks very fddom difiiirbus. uiks from the Nation are always very, fericusaffairs, ;md to ihe ut'.rioft degree aUnniiig tothe vhice inhabitants.The Mufcogulges are under a more ftri6t gcvernmentor regular civilization than the Indi:ins in geneial.They lie near their potent i\rA declaredenemy, the Chaftaws. Their country having a valtfrontier, naturally acccfllble and open to the incurfionsol their enemies on ail fidts, they find themfelvesundei the necLfTity of J:ffociating in large populoustowns, and thcfc towns as near together asconvenient, that they may be enabled to fuccoiir anddefend one another in cafe offudden invafion. Thisconfequenrly occafions deer and bear to be fcarceand difficult to procure, which obliges them to bevigilant and induiirious; this naturally begets careand ferious attention, which we may fuppofe in fomadegree forms their natural difpofitk n and manners,and gives them that air of dignified gravity, fo ftrikinglycharatleriftic in their aged people, and thatfteadinefs, jufb and cheerful reverence in the middleagedand youth, which fits fo eafy upon them, andappears fo natural. For, however llrange it mayappear to us, the fame inpral duties which with usform

NORTH AMERICA. 209form the amiable, virtuous chara6ler, fo difficult tomaintain there, without compulfion or vifible re-(Iraint, operates like inflinft, with a furprifing harmonyand natural eaf-, infomuch that it feems impoffiblefor them to aft out of the common high roadto virtue.We will now take a view of the Lower Creeks orSiminoles, and the natural difpofition which characterifesthis people ; when, from the (Iriking contrail,the philofopher may approve or di [approve, as hemay th'nk proper, from the judgment and opiniongiven by different men.The Siminoles are but a v/eak people with relpecftto numbers. All of them, I fuppofe, vvould not befufficient to people one of the towns in the Mufcogulge; for inftance, the Uches on the main branchof the Apalachucla river, which alone contains neartwo thoufand inhabitants. Yet this handful of peoplepofTefles a vaft territory ; all Eafl: Florida and thegreateft part of Weft Florida, which b.-ing naturallycut and divided into thoufands of iflets, knolls, andeminences, by the innumerable rivers, lakes, fwamps,vaft favannas and ponds, form fo many ftcure retreatsand temporary dwelling places, that cffeclualiyguard them from any fuddcn invafions or attacksfrom their enemies ;and bcfing fuch a fwampy, hommockycountry, furnilhes fuch a plenty and varietyoffupplies for the nourifhment of varieties of animals,that Ican venture to affert, that no part of theglobe (b abounds with wild game or creatures fit forthe food of man.Thus they enjoy afupe^ibundance of the neceffariesand conveniencies of life, with the fecurityof perfon and property, the two great concerns ofPmankind.

iioTRAVELS I^rmankind. Tl^e hides of deer, bears, tigers andwolves, together with honey, wax and other prodtiftionsof the country, purchafe their cloathing,equipage, and domeftic utenfils from the whites.They fcem to be free from want or defires. Nocruel enemy to dread ; nothing to give thera difquietude,but the gradual encroachments of thewhite people. Thus contented and undifturbed,they appear as blithe and free as the birds of theair, and like them as volatile and aflivC; tunefuland vociferous. The vifage, a6lion, and deportmentof the Siminoles, form the moil ftrikingpiftureof happinefs in this life ; joy, contentment, love,and friendfhip, without guile or affeftation, feeminherent in them, or predominant in their vital principle,for it leaves them but with the laft breath oflife.It even feems impofing a conftraint upon theirancient chiefs and fenators, to maintain a necefiarydecorum and folemnity, in their pubhc councils ;not even the debility and decrepitude of extreme oldage, is fufficient to erafe from their vifages thisyouthful, joyous fimplicicy ; but, like the gray eveof a ferene and calm day, a gladdening, cheeringbluili remains on the Weftern horizon after the funisfet.I doubt not but fome of my countrymen whomay read thefe accounts of the Indians, which I haveendeavoured to relate according to truth, at leaft asthey appeared to me, will charge me with partialityor prejudice iailieir favour.I will, however, now endeavour to exhibit theirvices, im.morarities, and imperfedlions, from myown obfervations and knowledge, as well as accountsfrom the white traders, who refide amongftthem.The

NORTH AMERICA.illThe Indians make war againll:, kill, and dellroytheir own fpecies, and their motives Ipring fromthe fame erroneous fource as they do in all odiernations of mankind ; that is, the amibition of exhibitingto their fellows a fuperior character of pcrfonaland national valour, and thereby immortalizing;themfelves, bv tranfmittinEi; their names withhonour and luftre to poffcerity ; or revenge oftheir enemy, for public or perfonal infults ; or, laft-Xji to extend the borders and boundaries of theirterritories. But I cannot find, upon the ftiiilefl: inquiry,that their bloody contells at this day aremarked with deeper llains of inhumanity or favagecruelty, than what may be obferved amongft themoft civilized nations : they do indeed fcalp theirflain enemy, but they do not killthe females or childrenof either fex :the moll ancient traders, both inthe Lower and Upper Creeks, aflured me they neverfaw an inftance of either burning or tormentingtheir male captives ; though it is faid they ufed todo it formerly. I faw in every tov.'n in the Nationand Siminoles that 1 vifitedj more or lefs male captives,fome extremely aged, who were free and in asgood circumftances as their mafters ; and all flaveshave their freedom when they marry, which is permittedand encouraged, when they and their offspringare every way upon an equality with their conquerors.They are given to adulteiy and fornication^but, I fuppofe, in no greater excefs than other nationsof men. They punifii the delinquents, maleand female, equally alike, by taking off their ears.This is the punifnment for adulter/. Infamv anddifgrace is fuppofed to be a fufHcient puniHiment forfornication, in either fcx.They are fond of games and gambling, and amufeP 2themlelves

Q.11 TRAVELS INthemfelves like children, in relating extravagant fVories,to caufe furprife and mirth.They wage eternal war againll deer and bear, toprocure food and cloathing, and other necelTaries andconveniences ; which is indeed carried to an unreafonableand perhaps criminal excefs, fince the whitepeople have dazzled their fenfes with foreign fuperfliiities.CHAP.

KORTH AMERICA, 213CHAP.VII.On my return to the trading houll^, from myiourney to the great favanna, I found the tradingcompany for Little St. Juan's preparing for thatpoll.My mind yet elate with the various fccnes of ruralnature, which as a lively anim.ated pitSlure hadbeen prefented to my view; the deeply engravenimpreflion, a pleafing flattering contemplation, gaveftrengch and agility to my fleps, anxioufly to prefsforward to the delightful fields and groves of Apalatche.The trading com.pany for Talahafochte beingnow in readinefs to proceed for that quarter, underthe direftion of our chief trader, in the cool of themorning we fat off, each of us having a good horfeto ride, b(;fides having in our caravan feveral packhorfesladen with provifions, camp equipage, an4other neceflaries. A young man from St. Auguftine,in the fervice of the governor of Eail: Florida,accompanied us, commiiTioned to purchafe of theIndians and traders fome Siminole horfes. Theyare the mod beautiful and fprightly fpecies of thatnoble creature, perhaps any where to be feen ; butare of a fmall breed, and as delicately formed as theAmerican roe-buck, A horfc in the Creek or Mufcogulgetongue is echoclucco, that is the greatdeer (echo is a deer, and clucco is big). The Simiiiolehorfes are faid to defcend originally from tiieP 3Andalufian

214 TRAVELS INAndalufian breed, brought here by the Spaniardswhen they firil: eftabhfhed the colony of Eaft Florida.From the forehead to their nofe is a littlearched or aquiline, and fo are the fine Chaftawhorfes among the Upper Creeks, which are faidto have been brought thither from New-Mexicoacrofs MiiTifippi, by thofs nations of Indians whoemigrated from the Weft, beyond the river. Thefehorfes are every where likethe Siminole breed, onlyk.rger, and perhaps not fo lively and capricious.It is a m.atter of con:e6lure and inquiry, whetheror not the different foil and fituation of the countrymay have contributed in fome meafure, in formingand eftablifhing the difference in fize and other qualitiesbetwixt them. I have obferved the horfes andother animals in the high hilly country of Carolina,Georgia, Virginia, and all along our fliores, are ofa much larger and ilrongc r make, than thofe whichare bred in the fiat country next the fea coaft. Abuck-fidn of the Upper Creeks and Cherokees willweigh twice as heavy as thofe of the Siminoles orLower Creeks, and thofe bred in the low flat coun^try of Carolina.Our firft day's journey was along the Alachuaroads, twenty-five m'ncs to the Half-way Pond,where we encamped : the mufquitoes were exceflivelytrpublefome the whole night.Decamped early next morning, frill purfuing theroad to Alachua, until within a few miles of Cufcovvilla; when the read dividing, one tor the town, anc^the other for the great favanna, here our companyfeparated. One party chofe to pafs through thetown, having fome concerns there. I kept with theparty diat went through the ilviwnih ic being thebeft

NORTH AMERICA.befl: road, leading over a part of the favanna;11^whenentering the groves on its borders, we travelledfeveral miles over thel'e fertile eminences, and delightfulIhady fragrant forefts; then again enteredupon the favanna, and crolled a charming extenfivegreen cove or bay of it, covered with a vividgreen gralfy turf, when we again afcended the woodlandhills, through fruitful orange groves, and underfhadowy palms and magnolias. Now the pineforefts opened to view. We left the magnificentfavanna and its delightful groves, paffing througha level, open, airy pine foreft, the ftately treesfcatneringly planted by nature, arifing ftraight anderecl from the green carpet, embellilhed with variousgraffes and flowering plants ; then graduallyafcending the fand hills, we foon came into the tradingpathto Talahafochte ; which is generally, exceptinga few deviations, the old Spanifh highway toSt Mark's. At about five miles diftance beyond thegreat favanna, we came to camp late in the evening,under a httle grove of live oaks, juft by a groupof (helly rocks, on the banks of a beautiful litdelake, partly environed by meadows. The rocks,as ufual in thefe regions, partly encircle a ipaciousunk or gro:to, which communicates with the watersof the lake : the waters of the grotto are perfe6tlytranfparent, cool, and ple?.fant, and well repleniihedwith fiih. Soon after our arrival here, our companionswho pafled through Cufcowilla joined us.briflc cool wind during the night kept the perfecutingmufquitoes ata diftance.The morning pleafant, we decamped early : proceedingon, rifing gently for feveral miles, overiandy, gravelly ridges, we found ourfclves in an ele-P 4vated,A

;2l6 TRAVELS INTvated, hig^i, open, airy region, fomewhat rocky,on the backs of the ridges, which prefented to view,on every iide, the moil dreary, folitary, defcrt wafteI had ever beheld ;groups of bare rocks emergingout of the naked gravel and drifts of white fandthe grafs thinly fcattv^red and but few trees ; thepines, oaks, olives, and fideroxylons, poor, mifhapen,and ti'teredj fcarce an animal to be feen, ornoifc he:rd, fiive the fymphony of the Weilernbreeze, through the brifiiy pine leaves, or folitaryfand-cncket's fcreech, or at beft the more focialconverfe of the frogs, in folemn chcrus with the fwifcbreeze>, brought from difcant fens and forefls. Nextwe joyfully entered the borders of the level pine foreftandfavannas which continued for many miles, neverout of fight of little lakes or ponds, environed withillumined meadows, the clear waters fparklingthrough the tall pines.Flaving a good fpirited hcrfe under me, I generallykept a-head of my companions, which I oftenchofe to do,as circumftances offered or invited, forthe f^ke of retirement and obfervation.The high road being here open and fpacious, ata good diftance before me, I obferved a large hav/kon the ground in the middle of the road : he feemcdto be in diiirels endeavouring to rife ; when,coming up near him, I found him c'.ofely bound upby a very long coach- whip fnake, that had wreath*ed himfelf fcveral times round the hawk's body,who had but one of his wings at liberty : beholdingtheir itruggles a while, I alighted off my horfev;ith an intentir.n of parting them ; when, on comingup, they mutually agreed to fcparate themfelvcSjeach one feeking his own l^^fety, probablyconiiderinq;

pNORTH AMERICA.IIJconfidering me as their common enemy. The birdrofe alofc and fled away as Toon as he recoveredhis liberty, and the fnake as eagerly made off. Ifoon overtook him, but could not perceive that hewas wounded.I fuppofe the hawk had been the aggrefibr, andfell upon the fnake with an intention of makinga prey of him ; and that the fnake dexteroufly andluckily threw himfelf in coils round his body, andgirded him fo clofe as to hvc iiimlelf from deitruclion.The coach-whip fnake is a beautiful creature.When full grown it is fix and fevcn feetin length, and the largett pare of its body not fothick as a cane or common walking-itick ; itshead not larger than the end of a man's fi^igersits neck is very (lender, and rrom the abdomentapers away in the manner o( a fmail fwirch orcoach-whip ; the top of che head and nrck, for threeor four inches, is as black and Ihining as a raven;the throat and belly as white as fnovv ; and the upperfide ot the body of a chocolate colour, exceptingthe tail part, almoft from the abdom'en tothe excrcmity, wnich is black. It may be proper toobfcrve, however, that it varies in rclpeil to thecolour ot the body ; fome I have feen almoft whiteor cream colour, others of a pa:e chocolate or claycolour, but in all, the head and neck is black,and the tail dark brown or black. It is extremelyfwifr, feeming almoft to fly over the furface ofthe ground ; and that which is very fi;.gular, itcan run fwiftiy on its tail part only, carryingthe head and boJy upright. One very fine one accompaniedme along cne road fide, at a little diftance,railing himfelf ered^ now and then lookingme

• Gins p.feathei-;^12 I 3 TRAVELS INme in the face, although I proceeded on a goodround trot on purpofe to obfcrve how fail they couldproceed in that pofition. His objeft feemed merecuriofity or cbfervaticn j with refpect to venomit isas innocent as a v.ornij and leems to be familiarwith man. It appears to be a particular inhabitantof Eaft Florida, though I have feen fomein the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia,but in thefe regions it is neither fo large norbeaudful.We afcended again, pafiing over fand ridges ofgentle elevation, lavannas and open Pine forefls.MalTes or groups of rocks prefented to view onevery fide, as before mentioned; and with difficultywe efcaped the circular infundibuliform cavities orfinks in the furfice of the earth. Generally a groupof rocks, fhaded by Palms, Live Oaks, and Magnolias,is fituated on their limb : fom.e are partly filledup v/ith earth, whilft others, and the greater numberof them, are partly filled with tranfparent coolwater, which discovers the well or perforationthrough the rocks in the centre. This day beingremarkably fultry, we came to camp early, havingchofen our fituation under fome ftately Pines,near the verge of a fpacious favanna.""'^After fome refrefliment, our hunters went outinto the foreft, and returned towards evening. A-mongft other game, they brought v/ith them a favannacrane which they fnot in the adjoining meadows.Tliis ftately bird is about fix feet in lengthfrom die tecs to the extremity of the beak whenextended, and the wings expand eight or nine feet;it is above five feet high when Handing erefti thetail is remarkably fliort, but the flag or pendant

NORTH AMERICA.Ijgfeathers which falldown off the rump on each n:!e,are very long and fharp pointed, of a delicate texture,and filky foftnefs ; the beak is very long, ftraightand fharp pointed ; the crown of the head bare offeathers, of a reddilli rofe colour, thinly barbedwith fhort, ftiff, black hairi the legs and thighs arevery long, and bare of feathers a great fpace abovethe knees : the plumage of this bird is generallyof a pale afh colour, with jfhades or clouds of palebrown and fi^y blue, the brown prevails on theIhoulders and back ; the barrels ol the prime quillfeathersare long and of a large diameter, leavinga large cavity when extracted from the w.ng : allthe bones of this bird have a thin fhell, and confequentlya large cavity or medullary receptacle.When thefe birds move their wingb in flight, theirflrokes are flow, moderate, and regular ; and even,when at a confiderable diftance or high above us,we plainly hear the quill- feathers, their fliafts andwebo upon one another creak as the joints orworking of a vefTei li a tempeftuous fea.We had this fowl dreffed for fupper, and it madeexcellent foup Jneverthelefs, as long as I can getany other neceffary food, I fliall prefer their feraphicmufic in the etiicreal fkies, and my eyes and underflandinggratified in obfrrving their economy andfocial communities, in the expanfive green favannasof Florida.Next morning we arofe early, and proceeding,gradually defcended again, and continued manymiles along a fiat, level country, over delightfulgreen favannas, decorated with hommocks or ifletsof dark groves, confiding of Magnolia grandifiora,Morus t iia, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Sideroxylon,Quercusfempervirens,Haletiadiptera, Calhcarpa,Corypha palma, &c. There are always groupsof

220 TRAVELS INof whItilTi teflaceous rocks and finks where thefehommocks are. We next crofled a wet favanna,which is the beginning of a region ftiil lower thanthat we had traverfeds here we crofled a rapid rivuletof exceeding cool, pleafant water, where we haltedto refrefh ourfelvcs. But it muft be remarkedhere, that this rivuler, though lively and rapid at thistime, is not a permanent ftream, but was formed bya heavy rain that fell the day before, as was apparentfrom its bed ^ befides it is at beft but a jet ormere phantom of a brook, as the land around isrocky and hollow, abounding with wells and cavities.Soon after leaving the brook, wepafled off to the lefthand, along the verge of an extenfive favanna, andmeadows many miles in circumference, edged on oneborder with detached groves and pompous Palms,and embelhfhed with a beautiful fparkling lake;its verges decorated with tall waving grafs andfloriferous plants; the pellucid waters gently rollingon to a dark Ihaded grotto, juft under a femicircularfweliing turfy afcent or bank, fkirted uygroves of Magnolias, Oaks, Laurel.i, and Palms. Inthefe expanfive and delightful m.eadows were feedingand roving troops of the fleet Siminole horfe.We halted a while at this grotto; and, after refrefli-Ing ourfeives, we mounted liorfe, and proceededacrofs a charming lav/n, part of the favanna, enteringon it th.rough a dark grove. In this extenflvelawn were feveral troops of horfe, and our companyhad the latisfadion of obfervincr feveral belons;-ing to themfelves. One occurrence remarkablehere, was a troop of horle under the controul andcare of a Angle black dog, which feemed to difixfrin no refped from the wolf of Florida, except hisbeing able to bark as the commion dog. He wasvery careful and induftrious in keeping them togetherJ

NORTH AMERICA, 221ther ; and if any one ftroUed from the reft at tooo-reat a diilance, the dog would fpring up, headthe horfe, and bring him back to the company. Theproprietor of thefe horfes is an Indian in TaUihafochte,about ten miles diftance from this place,who, out of humour and experiment, trained hisdog up from a puppy to this bufinefs : he followshis mafter's horfes only, keeping them in a feparatccompany where they range ; and vvhen he is hungiyor wants to fee his mailer, in the evening he returnsto town, but never ftays at home a night.The region we had journeyed through,decamiped this morning, is of a far better foil andquality than we had yet feen fince v/e left Alachua;generally a dark grayifli, and fonietimes brown orfince weblack loam, on a foundation of whitifh marl, chalk,and teftaceous limeftone rocks, and ridges of a loofe,coarfe, reddilh fand, producing ftately Pines in theplains, and Live Oak, Mulberry, Magnolia, Palm.,Zanthoxylon, &c. in the hommocks, and alfo in great:plenty the perennial Indigo; it grows here five, fix,and feven feet high, and as thick together as if inhad been planted and cultivated. The higher ridgesof hills afford great quantities of a fpecles ofiron ore, of tha: kind found in New-Jerfey andPennfylvania, and there called bog ore ; it appearson the furface of the ground in large detachedmafTes and fmalier fragments ; it is ponderous,and feemed rich of that mioft ufeful miCtal ; but oneproperty remarkable in thefe terrigenous ftones is,that they appear to be biiftered, fomewhat refcmbhngcinders, or as if they had fuitered a violentadion of fire.Le .ving the charming favanna and fields of Capo-"la_, we palfed feveral miles through de ighLl'il plains5 and

IllTRAVELS INandmeadows, little differing from the environs ofCapola, divfrfified with rocky iflets or hommocksof dark woodland.We next entered a vaft foreft of the moft ftatelyPine trees that can be imagined, planted by nature,at a moderate diftance, on a level, praffy plain,enamelled with a variety of flowering fhriibs, viz."Viola, Ruella infundibuliforma, Amaryllis atamafco,Mimofa fenfitiva, Mimofa intfia and manyothers new to me. This fublime fortft continuedfive or fix miles, when v/e came to dark groves ofOaks, Magnolias, Red bays, Mulberries, &c. throughwhich proceeding near a mile, we entered openfields, and arrived at the town of Talahafochte, onthe banks of Little St. Juan.The river Little St. Juan may, with fmgularpropriety, be termed the pellucid river. The watersare the cleared and pureft of any river I everfaw, tranfmitting diftinftly the natural form andappearance of the objefts moving in the tranfparentfloods, or repofing on the filvery bed, with the finnyinhabitants fporting in its gently flowing ftream.The river at the town is about two hundred yardsover, and fifteen or twenty feet in depth. Thegreat fwam.p and lake Oaquaphenogaw isfaid to beits fource, which is about one hundred miles by landNorth of this place ; which vv/ould give the river acourfe of near two hundred miiles from its fourceto the fea, to follow its meanders ; as in generalour rivers that run any confiderable difl:ance throughthe country to the fea, by their windings and rovingabout to find a pafllige through the ridges andheights, at leaft double their diilance.The Indians and traders fay tliat this river has nobranches

NORTH AMERICA. 121branches or collateral brooks or rivers tributary toit, but that it is fed or augmented by great Ipringswhich break out through the banks. From the accountsgiven by them, and my own obfervations onthe country round about, it leems a probable affertion; for there was not a creek or rivulet to befeen, running on the furface of the ground, fromthe great Alachua Savanna to diis river, a diftanceof above feventy miles; yet, perhaps, no part of theearth affords a greater plenty of pure, falubriouswaters. The unparalleled tranfpar^ncy of thefe watersfurniflies an argument for fuch a conjefture,that amounts at leait to a probability, were it nocconfirmed bv ocular demonflration ; for in all thet^at countries of Carolina and Florida, except thisifthmus, the waters of the rivers are, in fome degree,turgid, and have a dark hue, owing to the annualfiring of the forefts and plains ; and afterwards theheavy rains wafhing the light furface of the burntearth into rivulets, which rivulets running rapidlyover the furface of the earth, flow intothe rivers, and tinge tlie waters th^e colour oflye or beer, almoK down to the tide near the leacoaft. But here behold how different the appearance,and how manifeft the caufe !for although thefurface of the ground produces the fame vegetablelubfiances, the foil the fame, and fuffers in likemanner a general conflagration, and the rains, inimpetuous (bowers, as liberally defcend upon theparched furface cf the ground j yet the earth beingfo hollo v/ and porous, thefe fjperabundant waterscannot conftitute a rivulet or brook, to conti-^nue any dillance on its furface, before they arearrefted in their courfe and fwailowed up : thencedefcending, tliey are filtered through the lands andother

224 TRAVELS INOther pTrata of earth, to the horizontal beds of porousrocks, which bring connpofed of thin feparablclaminfE, lying generally in obliquely horizontaldireftions over each other, admit thefe waters toThuspafs on by gradual but conflant percolation.collefting and aflbciating, they augment and formlitde rills, brooks, and even fubterraneous rivers,•which wander in darknefs beneath the furface ofthe earth, by innumerable doublings, windings, andfecret labyrinths j no doubt in fome places formingvafl: refervoirs and fubterranean lakes, inhabitedby mukitudes of fifn and aquatic animals: and poffibly,when collefted into large rapid brooks, meetingirrefifiible obftrufliions in their courfc, they fuddenlybreak through thefe perforated fluted rocks,in high perpendicular jets, nearly to their formerlevel, flooding large difl:rici:s of land. Thus by meansof thofe fubterranean courfes, the waters are purifiedand finally carried to the banks of great rivers,where they emerge and prefent tiicmfelves to openday-light,with their troops of finny inhabitants, intliofe furprifing vafl: fountains near the banks of thisriver ; and likewife on and near the fliores of GreatSt. Juan, on the eafl: coafl: of the ifl:hmus, fomeof which I have already given an account of.On our arrival at Talahafochte, in the eveningwe repaired to the trading houfe formerly belongingto our chief, where v\ere a family of Indians,who immediately and complaifantly moved out toaccommodate us. The White King with moft: ofthe male inhabitants were out hunting or tendingtheir corn plantations.The town is delightfully fituatcd on the elevatedeaft banks of the river, the ground level to nearthe river, when it defccnds fuddenly to the water;I fuppofe

NORTH AMERICA. £^51 fuppofe the perpendicular elevation of the groundmay be twenty or thirty feet. There are near thirtyhabitations conftruded after the mode of Cufcowilla;but here is a more fpacious and neat councilhoufe,Thefe Indians have large handfome canoes, whichthey form out of the trunks of Cyprefs trees (Cuprefllisdifticha), fome of them commodious enouglito accommodate twenty or thirty warriors. In thefelarge canoes they defcend the river on trading andhunting expeditions to the fea coaft, neighbouringiflands and keys, quite to the point of Florida, andfometimes crofs the gulph, extending their navigationsto the Bahama illands and even to Cuba : acrew of thefe adventurers had juft arrived, havingreturned from Cuba but a few days before our arrival,with a cargo of fpirituous liquors. Coffee,Sugar, and Tobacco. One of them politely prefentedme with a choice piece of Tobacco, which he toldme he had received from the governor of Cuba.They deal in the way of barter, carrying withthem deer-flcins, furs, dry fifli, bees- wax, honey,bear's oil, and fome other articles. They fay theSpaniards receive them very friendhly, and treatthem with the beft fpirituous liquors.The Spaniards of Cuba likewife trade here or atSt. Mark's, and other fea ports on the weft coaltof the ifthmus, in fmall (loops; particularly at thebay of Calos, wliere are excellent filhing banks andgrounds ; not far from which is a confiderable townof the Siminoles, where they take great quantitiesof fifh, which they fait and cure on fliore, and barterwith the Indians and tradersfor flvins, furs, &:c. andreturn with their cargoes to Cuba.(i.The

126 TRAVELS I^fThe trader of the town of Talahafochte informedme, that he had, when trading in that town, largefupplies of goods from thefe Spanifh trading veiTels,fuitable for that trade, and fome very effential articles,on more advantageous terms than he couldpurchafe at Indian flcres either in Georgia or St.Auguftine.Towards the evening after the fultry heats werepaft, a young man of our company, having previouflyprocured the loan of a canoe from an Indian,propoled to me a fifhing excurfion for trout withthe bob. We fet off down the river, and beforewe had pafTed two miles caught enough for ourlioufhold : he was an excellent hand at this kind ofdiverfion : fome of the fifh were fo large and ftrongin their elem.ent, as to fhake his arms ftourly, anddrao; us with the canoe over the floods before wegot rhcm in. It is in the eddy coves, under thepoints and turnings of the river, where the furfaceof the waters for fome acres is covered withthe leaves of the Nymphea, Piftia, and other amphibiousherbs and grafs, where the haunts and retreatsof this tamous fifn are^ as well as others ofvarious tribes.Obicrvine: a fifhin;:* canoe of Indians turning apoint below and coming tov;ards us, who hailedus, we waited tlieir coming up; they were cheerfulmerry fellows, and infilted on our accepting ofpart of their lifh ; they having a greater quantityand variety, cfpecially of the bream, my favouritefifli, we exchanged fome of our trout with them.Our chief^eing engaged with the chiefs of thetown in commercial concerns, and others of ourcompany out in tire forcfts with die Indians, hunt-

;NOHTH AMERICA.tyjino- up horfc^s belonging to the trading companythe young intcrpreterj my companion, M'ho wasto me, and whom our chief previoufly re-bbligingtommended to me as an afibciate, propofed to meanother httle voyage down the river. This v/asagreeable to me, being defirous of increafing myobfervations during our continuance at Talahafbchtejas when the White King fliould returnto town (which was expelled every hour) we intendedafter audience and treaty to leave them andencamp in the forefts, about fifteen miles dillanceand nearer the ran.o;e of their horfes.Having fupplied ourfelves with ammunition andprovifion, we fet off in the cool of the morning,and delcended pleafantly, riding on the cryftalflood, which flows down with an eafy, gende, yetnftive current, rolling over its filvery bed. Howabundantly arethe waters repleniflied with inhabitants! the ftream almofl: as tranfparent as the airv/e breathe ; there is nothing done in fecret excepton its green flowery verges,, where nature, at thecommand of the Supreme Creator, hath fpread amantle, as a covering and retreat at fuitable andconvenient times, but by no means a fecure refugefrom the voracious enemy and purfuer.Behold the watery nations, in numerous bandsroving to and fro, amidft each other j here they feem"all at peace ; though, incredible to relate ! but a fev/yards off^,near the verge of the green mantled fliorethere is eternal war, or rather flaughter. Near thebanks the waters become turbid, from fubftancesgradually diverging from each fide of the fwift channel,and colleftions of opaque particles whirled toflhore by the eddies, which afix)rd a kind of nurfery forQ^ 2young

;238 TRAVELS INyoung fry, and its flimy bed is a prolific nidus forgenerating and rearing of infinite tribes and fwarnnsof amphibious infects, which are the food of youngfifli, who in their turn beconne a prey to the older.Yet when thofe different tribes of fifli are in thetranfparent channel, their very nature feems abfolutelychanged ; for here is neither defire to deftroynor perfecute, but all feems peace and friendfhip.Do they agree on a truce, a fufpenfion of hoftilities ?or by fome fecret divine influence, is defire takenaway ? or are they otherwife rendered incapable ofpurfuing each other to deftruflion ?About noon we approached the admirable ManateSpring, three or four miles down the river. Thischarming nymphjeum is the produ6l of primitivenature, not to be imitated, much lefs equalled, by theunited effort of human power and ingenuity ! As weapproach it by water, the mind of the inquiringtraveller is previouOy entertained, and graduallyled on to greater difcovery ; firfl: by a view of thefublime dark grove, lifted up on fliore, by a rangeor curved chain of hills, at a fmall diftance from thelively green verge of the river, on the eaft banksas we gently defcend floating fields of the Nymphsanelumbo, interfered with viftas of the yellow greenPiftia ftratiotes, which cover a bay or cove of theriver oppofite the circular woodland hills.It is amazing and almoft incredible, what troopsand bands of filli and other watery inhabitants arenow in fight, all peaceable; and in what variety ofgay colours and forms, continually afcending anddefcending, roving and figuring amongfl: one another,yet every tribe aflTociating feparately. Wenow afcendei the cryftal ftream j the current Avift:3 we

the:NORTH AMERICA, 229we entered the grand fountain, the expanfive circularbafon, the Iburce of which arifes from underthe bafes of the high woodland hills, nearly half encirclingit. The ebullition is aftonifhing, and continual,though its greateft force of fury intermits, regularly,for the fpace of thirty feconds of time: thewaters appear of a lucid fea green colour, in fomemeafure owing to the refledtion of the leaves abovethe ebullition is perpendicular upwards, from a vaftragged orifice through a bed of rocks, a greatdepth below the common furface of the bafon, throwingup fmall particles or pieces of white fliclls,which fubfide with the waters at the mioment ofintermifiion, gently fettling down round about theorifice, forming a vaft funnel. At thofe moments,when the waters rufh upwards, the furface of thebafon immediately over the orifice is greatly fwollenor railed a confiderable height -, and then it isimpoflible to keep the boat or any other floatingveilel over the fountain ; but the ebullition quicklyHibfides; yet, before the furface becomes quite even,the fountain vomits up the waters again, and fo onperpetually. The bafon is generally circular, aboutfifty yards over ; and the perpetual ftream from itInto the river is twelve or fifteen yards wide, andten or twelve feet in depth -, bafon and ftreamcontinually peopled v/ith prodigious numbers andvariety of fifli and other animals ; as the alligator,and the manate* or fca cow, in the winter fcafon.Part of a fkelecon of one, which the Indians had killedlaft winter, lay upon the banks of the fpring : thegrinding teeth were about an inch in diameter ;theribs eighteen inches in length, and tv/o inches and anhalf in thicknefs, bending Vv'ith a gentle curve. Thisbone is eftecmed equal to ivory. The tlefli of this* Trichecus manatvis. Sea cow.0^3creature

;£3

NORTH AMERICA.2^1There are to be feen plain marks or veftiges ofthe old Spanifh plantations and dwellings ; as fencepofls and wooden pillars of their houses, ditclies, andeven corn ridges and Batata hills. From the Indianaccounts, the Spaniards had here a rich v/ellcultivated and populous fettlemenr, and a ftrongfortified poflr, as they likewife had at the favannaand fields of Capola; but either of them far inferiorto one they had iome miles farther fouth-wefttowards the Apalachuchla River, now called theApalachcan Old Fields, where yet remain vaft worksand buildings, as fortifications, temples, fome brafscannon, mortars, heavy church bells, &c.The fame groups of whidfh teftaceous rocks andcircular finks, with natural wells, make their appearancein thefc groves and fields, as obferved onthe fide of the river oppofite to Capola; and theflime trees, llirubs, and herbage without variation.Having paiTed five or fix miles through thefe ancientfields and groves, the fcene fuddenly changes, afterriding through a high foreft of Oak, Magnolia,Fraxinus, Liquidambar, Fagus fylvatica, &c.Now at once opens to view, perhaps, the moflextenfive Cane-break * that is to be feen on the faceof the whole earth ; right forward, about fouthweft,there appears no bound but the fkies, thelevel plain, like the ocean, uniting with the firmament,and on the right and left hand, dark Ihadedgroves, old fields, and high forefts, fuch as wehad lately palled through.The alternate bold promontories and mifliy pointsadvancing and retiring, at length, as it v/ere, infcnfi-* C-me m^dows, fo calleil by the inhabitants of Caiolina, kc.0.4 bly

:-J-TRAVELS INbly vanilliing from fightj like the two points of acrefcent, foftly touching the horizon, reprefent themoft magnificent amphitheatre or circus perhaps inthe whole world. The ground defcends gently fromthe groves to the edge of the Cane-break, forminga delightful green grafly lawn. The Canes areten or twelve feet in height, and as thick as an ordinarywalking-flafF; they grow fo clofe together,there is no penetrating them without previoufly cuttinga road. We came up to this vaft plain wherethe ancient Spanifh highway crolTes it to Penfacolathere yet remain plain veftiges of the grand caufeway,which is open like a magnificent avenue, and theIndians have a bad road or pathway on it. Theground or foil of the plain is a perfectly black, rich,Ibapy earth, like a ftifF clay or marie, wet and boggynear the fhore, but, further in, firm and hard enoughin the fummer feafon, but wet and in fome placesunder water during the winter.This vaft plain, together with the forefts contiguousto it, if permitted (by the Siminoles who arcibvereigns of thefe realms) to be in poffelTion andunder the culture of induftrious planters and mechanics,would in a little time exhibit other fcenesthan it does at prefent, delightful as it is -, for bythe arts of agriculture and commerce, almoft everydefirable thing in lifemight be produced and madeplentiful here, and thereby eftablifh a rich, populous,and delightful reinon ; as this foil and climateappears to be of a nature fa/ourable for the prodiuStionof almoft all the fruits of the earth, as Corn*,Rice, Luligo, Sugar-cane, Flax, Cotton, Silk, Cochineal,and all the varieties of efculent vegetables;aiid 1 fuppofe no part of the earth affords iiich end-* Zca.Icfs.

NORTH AMERICA.SJJlefs range and exuberant paftiire for cattle, deer,Hieep, Sec. : the waters every where, even in theholes in the earth, abound with varieties of excellentfifli ; and the forefts and native meadows with wildgame, as bear, deer, turkeys, quail, and in the winterfeafon geele, ducks, and other fowl : and lyingcontiguous to one of the moft beautiful navigablerivers in the world, and not more than thirty milesfrom St. Mark's on the great bay of Mexico, is modconveniently fituated for the Weft India trade, andthe commxcrce of all the world.After indulging my imagination in the contemplationof thefe grand diverfified fcenes, we turnedto the right hand, riding over the charming greenterrace dividing the forefts from the plains, and thenentering the groves again, continued eight or ninemiles up the river, four or live miles diftance fromits banks -, having continually in view, on one fideor other, expanfive green fields, groves and highforefts 5 the meadows ghttering with diftant lakesand ponds, alive with cattle, deer, and turkeys, andfrequently prefenring to view remains of ancientSpanifn plantations. At length, towards evening,we turned about and came within fight of the river,where falling on the Indian trading path, we condnuedalong it to the landing-place oppofite the tov/n ;when hallooing and difcharging our pieces, an Indianwith a canoe came prefently over, and condu6ted m.to the town before dark.On our arrival at the trading houfe, our chiefv/as vifited by the head men of the town, wheninftantly the White King's arrival in town wasannounced : a mefienger had before been fent in toprepare a feaft-, the king and his retinue havingkilled fevcral bears. A fire was now kindled in thearea

:!254 TRAVELS INarea of the public fquare ; the royal flandard wa^dilplayed, and the drum beat to give notice to thepown of the royal feaft.The ribs and the choice pieces of the three greatfat bears, already well barbecued or broiled, werebrought to the banqueting houfe in the fquare, withlict bread ; and honeyed water for drink.When the feaft was over in the fquare (whereonly the chiefs and warriors were admitted, withthe white people), the chief prieft, attended byfiaves, came with bafkets and carried off the remainderof the vi6luals, &c. which was diftributedamongil the families of the town. The king thenwithdrew, repairing to the council houie in thefquare, whither the chiefs and v/arriors, old andyoung, and fuch of the whites as chofe, repairedalfo ; the king, war chief, and feveral nneient chiefsand warriors were feated on the royal cabins 3 thereft of the head inen and warriors, old and young,fat on the cabins on the right hand of the king'sthe cabins or feats on the left,and on the fame elevation,are always affigncd for the white people, Indiansof other towns, and iijch of their own peopleas choofe.Our chief with the reft of the white people intown, took their feats according to order : tobaccoand pipes were brought 3 d\t calumet was lighted andfrnoaked, circulating according to the wduV forms,and ceremony ; and afterwards black drink concludethe feaft. The king converkd, drank caffme,and afibcrated familiarly v/ith his people andwith us.After the public entertainment was over, theyoung people began their miific and dancing in theIfquare_,

NOilTH AMERICA, a^,§.fqnare, whither the young of both fexes repaired, aswell as the old and middle-aged: this frolick continuedall night.The White King of Talahnfochtc is a middle-agedman, of moderate ftature j and though of a lofty andmajeiliic countenance and deportment, yet I am convincedthis dignity, which really feems graceful, isnot the effeft of vain fupercilious pride, for his fmilingcountenance and his cheerful familiarity befpeakmagnanimity and benignity,Next a council and treaty was held. They requeftedto have a trading houfe again eftabliflied inthe town, allliring us that every poflible means fhouldcoriftantly be purfued to prevent any difturbance infuture on their part ; they informed us that the murderersof M'Gee * and his affociates v/ere to be putto death ; that two of them were already iliot, andthey were in purfuit of the other.Our chief trader in anfvver informed them, thatthe re-eftabliflnTientof friendlhip and trade v/as thechief objevfl of his vifit, and that he was happy tofind his old friends of Talahafochtc in the fame good(hfpofition, as they ever were tov/ards him and thev/hite people j that it was his v/ifh to trade withthem, and that he was now come to collect his packhorfesto bring them goods. The king and thechiefs having been already acquainted with my bufinefsand purfuits amongft them, received me verykindly; the king in particular complimented me,* M'Gee u-as the lender of a family of white people from Georgin,deflined ncrofs the ifthmus, to the Mobile river ; they travelleil on horfeback'as far as this town, where they procured c.inoes of the Indians, continwingtheir travels, defcending the river andcoafling the main S. W. ; but at night,when on (hoie, hunting provifions, their camp was furpnfed an-l attackedby a predatoiy band of Indians, who flew M'Gee and the reft of themen, and carried off the plunder and a woman to their towns.faying

136 TRAVELS INfaying that Iwas as one of his own children or peo«pie, and fliould be protected accordingly, while Iremained with them ; adding, " Our whole countryis befcre ycu, where you may range about at pleafure,gather phyfic plants and flowers, and everyother produ(^ticn :" thus the treaty terminated friend-Illy and peaceably.Next day early in the morning we left the townand the river, in order to fix our encampment inthe forefts about twelve miles from the river ; ourcompanions with the pack-horfes went a-head to theplace of rendezvous, and our chief conduded meanother way to fhow me a very curious place, calledthe Alligator-Hole, which was lately formicd byan extraordinary eruption or jet of water. It iscne of thofe vaft circular finks which we beheldalmoft every where about us as we traverfed thefeforefts, after we left the Alachua favanna. Thisremarkable one is on the verge of a fpacious meadow,the furface of the ground round about unevenby means of gentle rifing knolls : fome detachedgroups of rocks and large fpreading live oaks fliadeit on every fide : it is about fixty yards over, andthe furface of the water fix or feven feet below therim of the funnel or bafon : the water is tranfparent,cool, and pleafant to drink, and well ftored withfifli ia very large alligator at prefent is lord or chief?many have been killed here, but the throne is neverlong vacant, the vaft neighbouring ponds fo aboundwith them.The account that this gentleman, who was aneye-witnefs of the laft eruption, gave me of its firftappearance, being very wonderful, I proceed to relatewhat he told m.e whilft we were in town, whichwas confirmed by the Indians,, and one or more ofoiir

NORTH AMERICA.2^7our companions, who alfo faw its progrefs, as well dsby my own obfervations after I came to the ground.This trader being near the place (before it liadany vifible exiftence in its prefcnt appearance),about three years ago, as he was looking for fomehorfes which he expelled to find in thefe parts,on a fudden was aftoniflied by an inexpreffiblerufhing noife, like a mighty hurricane or thunderftorm ; and looking round, he faw the earth overflowedby torrents of water, which came, waveafter wave, rufhing down a vale or plain very nearhim, which ir filled with water, and loon began tooverwhelm the higher grounds, attended with a terrificnoife and tremor of the earth. Recoveringfrom his firfl: furprife, he immediately refolved toproceed for the place from whence the noife feemedto come ; and foon came in fight of the incomparablefountain, and law, with amazement, thefloods rufliing upwards many feet high, and the expandingwaters, which prevailed every way, fpreadingthemfelves far and near. He at length concluded(he faid) that the fountains of the deep wereagain broken up, and that an univerfal deluge hadcommenced ; and inftantly turned about and fledto alarm the town, about nine nniles diiiiance : butbefore he coulci reach it, he met feveral of theinhabitants, who, already alarmed by ths unufualnoife, were hurrying on towards tlie place ; uponwhich he returned with the Indians, taking theirftand on an eminence to watch its progrefs and theevent. It continued to jet and flow in this mannerfor feveral days, forming a large, rapid creek orriver, defcending and following the various courfesand windings of the valley, for the dillance of fevenor eight miles, emptying itfelf into % vafl: favanna,where

230 TRAVELS INwhere was a lake andvent to its waters.fink which received and gaveThe fountain, however, gradually ceafed to overflow,and finally withdrew itlelf beneath the com-leaving this capacious ba-mon furface of the earth,ibn of waters, which, though continually near full,hath never fince overflowed. There yet remains,,and will, 1 fuppofe, remain for ages, the dry bed ofthe river or canal, generally four, five, and fix feetbelow the natural furface of the land ; the perpendicular,ragged banks of which, on each fide, fhowthe different ftrata of the earth jand at places, whereridges or a fwelling bank crolfed and oppofcd itscourfe and fury, are vaft heaps of fragments ofrocks, white chalk, ftones, and pebbles, which werecolle6led and throv/n into the lateral vallies, untilthe main ftream prevailed over and forced themafide,overflowing the levels and meadows, for fomcmiles diftance from the principal fl:ream, on eitherfide. We continued down the great vale, along itsbanks, quite to the favanna and lake where it venttditfelf, while its ancient fubterranean channel wasgradually opening, whicii, I imagine, trom Ibme hiddenevent or caufe had been choaked up, and which,we may fuppofe^ was the immediate caiife of theeruption.In the evening, having gained our encampment;,on a grafly knoll or eniinence, under the cover ©ffpreadnig oaks, jufl: bv the grotto or fink of the lake;which lay as a fparkling gem on the flowery bofomof tl:e ample favanna ; our lOving aflbciatesIbon came in from langing the forefls. Vv'e continuedour encampment at this place for feveral days^ranging around the delightful country to a great diftancci

;NORTH AMERICA.2J5tance, every day's excurfion prefentlng new fcenesof wonder and delight.Early in the morning our chief invited me withhim on a vifit to the town, to take a final leave ofthe White King. We were gracioufly received,and treated with tlie iitmoft civility and liofpitaiity: there was a noble entertainment and repaftprovided againil our arrival, confifting of bears ribs,veniion, varieties of filli, roafted turkies (whichthey call the white man's difh), hot corn cakes, anda very agreeable cooling fort of jelly, which theycall conte : this is prepared from the root of theChina briar (Smilax pfeudo-China j Smilax afpcra,fruAu nigro, radice nodofa, magna, Isevi, farinaceaSloan, torn. i. p. 31. t. 143. f. i. habit. Jamaica,Virginia, CaroHna, and Florida) : they chop theroots in pieces, which are afterwards well poundedin a wooden mortar, then being mixed with cleanwater, in a tray or trough, they ftrain it through^bafkets -, the fediment, which fettles to the bottomof the fecond vefTel, is afterwards dried in the openair, and is then a very fine reddilli flour or meal : afmall quantity of this mixed with warm water andfvveetened with honey, when cool, becomes a beautiful,delicious jelly, very nourilliing and v/holefome.They alfo mix it with fine corn flour, which beingfried in frelh bear's oil makes very good hot cakesorfritters.On our taking leave of the king and head men,they entreated our chief to reprefent to the whitepeople, their unfeigned defire to bury in oblivionthe late breach of amity and intermiffion of commerce,which they trufted would never be refled:edon the people of Talahaibchte i and, lafl:ly, tliat wewould

24C> TRAVELS inWould fpeedily return with merchandize as hetttb*fore Jall which was cheerfully conftnted to, alluringtliem their wifnes and fcntiments fully coincided withours.The chief trader, intending to fhow me fome remarkablebarren plains, on our return to our en^Campment, about noon we fat off: when we camewithin fight of them, I was ftruck with aftonifhmentat their dreaiy appearance -, the view Southerlyfeemed endlefs waftes, prefenting rocky, gravellyand fandy barren plains, producing fcarcelyany vegetable fubflances, except a few fhrubbycrooked Pine trees, growing out of heaps of whiterocks, which reprefented ruins of villages, plantedover the plains ; with clumps of mean flirubs, whichferved only to perpetuate the perfecuting powerand rage of fire, and to teftify the aridity of thefoil. The Ihrubs I obferved were chiefly the following; Myrica cerifera, two or three varieties, oneof which is very dwarfilli, the leaves fmall, yettoothed or finuated, of a yellowifli green colour,owing to a farinaceous pubefcence or veficula whichcovers their furfices ; Prinos, varieties, Andromedaferruginea, Andr. nitida, varieties, Rhamnus frangula,Sideroxylon fericium, Ilex aquifolium. Ilexmyrtifolium, Empetrum, Kalmia ciliata, Cadine, anda great variety of ilirub Oaks, evergreen and deciduous,fome of them Angularly beautiful ; Cory-^pha repens j with a great variety of herbage, particularlyCacalia, Prenanthus, Chryfocoma, Plelianthus,Silphium, Lobelia, Globularia, Helenium,Polygala, varieties, Clinopodium, Caftus, variousfpecies, Euphorbia, various fpecies, Afclepias carnofa,very beautiful and Angular, Sophora, Dianthus,Ciflus, Sifymbrium, Pedicularis, Gerardia,Eechea,"

NORTH AMERICA.il4tLccheaj Gnaphalium, Smilax farfaparina, Smilaxpumih. Solidago, After, Liipinus filifolius, Galega,Hedylarum, &rc. with various fpccies of grafTes.But there appeared vaft fpaces of gravel and pl-'insof flat rocks, juft even with the furface of the earth,which feemed entirely deftitute of any vegetation,unlefs we may except fome different kinds of moflesof the cruftaceous forts, as lichen, alga, &c. andcoralloides. After paffing leveral miles on theborders of thefe deferts, frequently alighting onthciii for obfervation, and making collections, theyat length gradually united or joined with infinitefavannas and ponds ilretching beyond the fightfoutherly, parallel with tlie rocky barrens ; beingfeparated only by a narrow, low, rocky ridge ofopen groves, confifling of low, fpreading LiveOaks, Zanthoxylon, Ilex, Sideroxylon, &c. ; andhere and there, ftanding either in groups or alone, thepompous Palm tree, glorioufly ere6t or gracefullybowing tov/ards the earth i exhibiting a moft pleafingcontraft and wild Indian fcene of primitive unmodifiednature, ample and magnificent. We atlength came abreaft of the expanfive, glitteringlake, which divided the ample meadows, one endof which Ilretching towards a verdant eminence,formed a little bay, which was partly encircled bygroups of white chalky rocks, fliaded with Live Oaks,Bays, Zanthoxylon and Palm trees. We turned ourhorfes to graze in the green lawns, whilft we traverfedthe groves and meadows. Here the palmatedConvolvulus trailed over the rocks, with the Hederacarnofa (fol. quinatis incifo-ferratis, perennentibus),and the fantaftic Clitoria, decorating thefhrubs with garlands (Clit. caule volubili fol. ternatispennatifque, flor. majore cjeruleo, vexillo rotundiore,filiquis longiflimis comprefTis).RSoon

2,42 TRAVELS INSoon after entering the forefts, we were met irtthe path by a fmall company of Indians, fmilingand beckoning to us long before we joined them.This was a family of Talahafochte who had beenout on a hunt, and were returning home loadedwith barbecued meat, hides and honey. Their companyconfifted of the man, his wife and children,well mounted on fine horfes, with a number ofpack-horfes. The man prefently offered us a fawnikinof honey, which we gladly accepted, and atparting Ipreiented him with fome fifh-hooks, fewingneedles, &c. ;for in my travels amongft the Indians,I always furnifned myfelf with fuch ufefuland acceptable little articles of light carriage, forprefents. We parted, and before night rejoinedour companion at the Long Pond.On our return to camp in the evening, we werefainted by a party of young Indian warriors, whohad pitched their camp on a green eminence nearthe lake, and at a fm.all diftance from our camp,under a litde grove of Oaks and Palms. Thiscompany confifted of feven young Siminoles, underthe condud: of a young prince or chief of Talahafochte,a town foudivv'ard on the ifthmus. They wereall dreffed and painted with fmgular elegance, andrichly ornamented wieh filver plates, chains, &c.after the Siminole mode, with waving plumes offeathers on their crells. On our coming up tothem, they arofe and fhook hands; we alighted andfit a while with them by their cheerful fire.The young prince informed our chief that hewas in purfuit of a young fellow, who had fledfrom the town, carrying off with him one of his favouriteyoung wives or concubines. He faid merrily,he would have the ears of both of them beforehe

•binthine•in;NORTH AMERICA.'l^^he returned.He was rather above the middle ftature,and the mod perfeft human figure I everfaw; of an amiable engaging countenance, air anddeportment; free and familiar in converfation, yetretaining a becoming gracefulnefs and dignity.Wearofe, took leave of them, and crofied a litde valecovered with a charming green turf, already illuminatedby the foft light of the full moon.Soon after joining our companions at camp, ourneighbours, the prince and his affociates, paid us avifit. We treated them with the bed fare we had,having till this time preferved Ibme of our fpirituousliquors. They left us with perfed; cordiality andcheerfulnefs, wifliing us a good repofe, and retiredto their own camp. Having a band of mufic withthem, confifting of a drum, flutes, and a rattlegourd, they entertained us during the night withtheir mufic, vocal and inftrumental.There is a languifhing foftnefs and melancholyair in the Indian convivial fongs, efpecially of theamorous clafs, irrefiftibly moving, attraftive, andexquifitdy pleafing, efpecially in thefe folitary recelTes,when all nature is fiient.Behold how gracious and beneficent fhines therofeate morn ! N ow the fun arifes and fills the plainswith light; his glories appear on the forefts, encompafTingthe meadows, and gild the top of the tere-Pine and exalted Palms, now gently ruftlingby the prefTure of the waking breezes : themufic of the feraphic cranes refounds in the fkiesfeparate fquadrons they fail, encircling their precinfts,fiowly defcend beating the denfe air, and•ahght on the green dewy verge of the expanfivelakei its furface yet fmoking with the gray af-R 2cending

;i44 ttravels incending inifts, which, condenfed aloft in clouds (yfvapour, are born awny by the morning breezes, andat lafl gradually vanilh on the diftant horizon. Allnature awakes to life and a6livity.The ground, during our progrefs this morning,every where about us prefented to view thofe funnels,finks and wells in groups of rocks, amidft thegroves, as already recited.Near our next encampment, one more confpicuousthan I had elfewhere obferved prefenting itfelf, Itook occafion from this favourable circumftance ofobferving them in all their variety of appearances.Its outer fuperficial margin was fifty or fixty yardsover, which equally and uniformly on every fidefloped downwards towards the center: on one fideof it v/as a confiderable path-way or road leadingdown to the water, worn by the frequent refort ofwild creatures for drink, when the waters wererifen even or above the rocky bed, but at this timethey were funk many yards below the furface of theearth. We defcended firft to the bed of rocks,which was perforated with perpendicular tubes, exaftlylike a walled well, four, five, or fix feet in diameter,and may be compared to cells in an honeycomb,through which appeared the water at bottom: many of thefe were broken or worn one intoanother, forming. one valt well with uneven walls,confif!:ing of projecting jams, pilaflres, or buttrefifes,and excavated femicircular niches, as if a piecewere taken out of a honey-comb : the bed of rocksis from fifteen to twenty feet deep or in thicknefs,though not of one iblid mafs, but of many, generallyhorizontal, laminae, or ftrata, of various thicknefs,from eighteen inches to two or three feet"ftiiich admit water to weep through, trickling down,2 drop

NORTH AMERICA. 24

246 TRAVELS INNext day we fet off on our return to the lowertrading-houfe, propofing to encamp at a favanna,about twelve miles diftance from this, where wewere to halt again and ftay a day or two, in orderto colleft together another party of horfes, whichhad been flationed about that range. The youngwild horfes often breaking from the company, renderedour progrefs flow and troublefome ^ we howeverarrived at the appointed place long beforenight.I had an opportunity this day of collefting a varietyof fpecimens and feeds of vegetables, fome ofwhich appeared new to me, particularly Sophora,Ciftus, Tradefcantia, Hypoxis, latropa, Gerardia,Pedicularis, Mimofa fenfitiva, Helonias, Melandiium,Lilium, Aletris, Agave, Cadus, Zamla,Empetrum, Erythryna, Echium, &c.Next day, the people being again engaged intheir bufinefs of ranging the forefts and plains, infearch of their horfes, I accompanied them, and inour rambles v/e again vifited the great favanna andlake, called the Long Pond : the lake is nearly inthe middle of the fpacious lawn, of an oblong form;one endabove two miles wide and feven in length ;approaching the high green banks adjoining the forelts,where there is an enchanting grove and grottoof pellucid waters, inhabited with multitudes offjfn, continually afcending and defcending throughthe clean, white rocks, Hoping from the greenVerged fliore, by gradual ileps, from fmooth, flatpavements wafhed by the fweliing undulations ofthe waters.Arrived in the evening at camp, where we foundthe rcfb of our companions bufily employed in fecurln^

NORTH AMERICA.t^Jduring the young freakifli horfes. The next diywas employed in like manner, breaking and tutoringthe young fleeds to their duty. The day followingwe took a final leave of this land of meadows,lakes, groves and grottos, direfting our courfefbr the trading path. Having traverled a country,in appearance, httle differing from the region lyingupon Little St. Juan, we gained about twelvemiles on our way ; and in the evening encamped ona narrow ridge, dividing two favannas from eachother, near the edge of a deep pond; here our peo-fecure their wildple made a large pen or pound tohorfes during the night. There was a little hommockor iflet containing a few acres of high ground,at fome diftance from the fhore, in the drownedfavanna, almofl every tree of which was loaded withnefts of various tribes of water fowl, as ardea alba,ar. violacea, ar. cerulea, ar. ftellaris criftata, ar.ftellaris maxima, ar. virefcens, colymbus, tantalus,mergus and otiiers ; thefe nefts were all alive withyoung, generally almoft full grov/n, not yet fledged,but covered with whitifh or cream-colouredfoft down. We vifited this bird ifle, and fome ofour people taking fticks or poles with them, foonbeat down and loaded themfelves with thefe fquabs,and returned to camp ; they were almoft a lump offat, and made us a rich fupper^ fome we roafted,and made others into a pilloe with rice : moft ofthem, except the bitterns and tantali, were fo exceffivelyfiihy in tafte and fmell, I could not relifhthem. It is incredible what prodigious numbersthere were, old and young, on this little iflet; andthe confufed noife which they kept up continually,the young crying for food inceflantly, even whilftin their throats, and the old alarmed and difpleafedat our near refidence, and the depredations we hadR 4made

;248 TRAVELS INmade upon them; their various languages, cries,and fluttering, caufed an inexpreffible uproar, like apublic fair or market in a populous trading city>when luddenly furprifed by fome unexpected calamitousevent.About midnight, having fallen afleep, I wasav/akened and greatly furprifed at finding moft ofmiy companions up in arms, and furioufly engagedwith a large alligator but a few yards from me.One of our company, it feems, awoke in thenight, and perceived the monfter within a fewpaces of the camp; when giving the alarm to thereft, they readily came to his afiiftance, for it wasa rare piece of fport. Some took fire-brands andcall them at his head,whilft others formed javelinsof faplings, pointed and hardened with fire ; thefethey thruft down his throat into his bowels, whichcaufed the monfter to roar and bellow hideouflybut his ftrength and fury were lb great, that he eafilyVv'renched or twifted them out of their hands, andwielding and brandilhing them about, kept his enemiesat a diftance for a time. Some were for puttingan end to his life and fufferings with a rifleball, but the majority thought this would too foondeprive them of the diverfion and pleaiure of excercifingtheir various inventions of torture: theyat length however grew tired, and agreed in oneopinion, that he had fuflered fufficiencly; and putan end to his exiftence. This crocodile was abouttwelve ftet in length : we fuppofed that he hadbeen allured by the fifliy fcent of our birds, andencouraged to undertake and purfue this hazardousadventure which coft him his life. This, withother inftances already recited, may be fufficient toprove the intrepidity and fubtilty of thofe voracious,formidable animals.We

NORTH AMERICA.^49We fat off early next morning, and fbon afcerfalling into tlie trading path, accompliHied abouttwenty miles of our journey ; and in the eveningencamped as iifual, near the banks of favannas andponds, for the benefit of water and accommodationsof paRure for our creatures. Next day we pafledover part of the g'-eat and beautiful Alachua Savanna,whofe exuberant green meado-.vs, with the fertilehills which immediately encircle it, would, ifpeopled and cultivated after the manner of the civihzedcountries of Europe, v/ithout crowding orincommoding families, at a moderate eftimationjaccommodate in the happieft manner above onehundred thoufand human inhabitants, befides millionsof domeftic animals ; and I make no doubtthis place will at ibme future day be one of the mofbpopulous and delightful feats on earth.We came to camp in the evening, on the banksof a creek but a few miles diftance from Cufcowilla; and two days more moderate travelling broughtus fafe back again to the lower trading- houfe, onSt. Juan, having been blefied with health and aprofperous journey.On my arrival at the ftores, I was happy to findall well as we had left them ;and our bringing withus friendly talks from the Siminole towns, and theNation likewife, completed the hopes and wifhesof the trading company, with refpect to their commercialconcerns with the Indians, which, as thecheering light of the fun-beams after a dark tempefluousnight, diffufed joy and conviviality throughoutthe little community, where were a number ofmen with their famihes, who had been put out ofemployment and fubfiftence,happy event.anxioufly waiting theCHAP.

I^OTRAVELS IMCHAP.VIII.As a loading could not be procured until late inthe autumn, for the fchooner that was to return toGeorgia, this circumilance allowed me time andopportunity to continue my excurfions in this landof flowers, as well as at the fame time to augmentmy coUedions of feeds, growing roots, &c.I refolved upon another litde voyage up theriver ; and after refting a few days and refitting mybark, I got on board the neceffary ftores, and furnifliingmyfelf with boxes to plant roots in, withz-ny fuzee, ammunition and fifhing tackle, I fet fail,and in the evening arrived at Mount Royal. Nextmorning, being moderately calm and ferene, I fetfail with a gentle leading breeze, which delightfollywafted me acrofs the lake to the weft coaft,landing on an airy, fandy beach, a pleafant, coolfituation, where I paiTed the night, but not withoutfrequent attacks from the mufquitoes ; and next dayvifited the Great Springs, where I remained untilthe fucceeding day, increafing my collections of fpecimens,feeds and roots ; and then recroifed the laketo the eaftern fhore. This fhore is generally bolderand more rocky than the weftern, it being expofedto the lalh of the furf, occafioned by the W. andN. W. winds, which are briik and conftant fromnine or ten o'clock in the morning till towards midnight,almoft the year round; though the S. windsare confidcrable in the fpring, and by fhort intervalsduring the fummer and winter j and the N. E.though fometimes very yiolent in the fpring andautumn^

NORTH AMERICA. 251autumn, does not continue long. The day wasemployed in coafling flowly, and making collections.In the evening I made an harbour under coverof a long point of flat rocks, which defendedthe mole from the furf. Having lafcly moored mybark, and chofen my camping ground juft by, duringthe fine evening I reconnoitred the adjacentgroves and lawns. Here is a dcfcrted plantation,the property of Dr. Stork, where he once refided.Iobferved many lovely fhrubs and plants in the oldfields and Orange groves, particularly feveral fpeciesof Convolvulus and Ipomea, the former havingvery large, white, fweet fcented flowers : they aregreat ramblers, climbing and flrolling on the flirubsand hedges. Next morning 1 re- embarked, andcontinued traverfmg the bold coaft north-eaflward,and fearching the Ihores at all convenient landings,where I was amply rewarded for my afllduity in thefociety of beauties in the blooming realms of Florida.Came to agann, at an old deferred plantation,the property of a Britifh gentleman, but fomeyears fince vacated. A very fpacious frame buildingv/as fettling to the ground and mouldering toearth. Here are very extenfive old fields, wherewere growing the Wefl:-Indian or perennial Cottonand Indigo, which had been cultivated here, andfome fcattered remains of the ancient orange groves,which had been left Handing at the clearing of theplantation.I have often been affe6ted with extreme regret,at beholding the deftrucftion and devaflation whichhas been committed or indifcreetly excrcifed onthofe extenfive fruitful Orange groves, on the banksof St. Juan, by the new planters under the Britifhgovernment, fome hundred acres of which, at afinglc

25^'TRAVELS l^fingle plantation, have been entirely deftroyed, tomake room for the Indigo, Cotton, Corn, Batatas,&c. or, as they fay, to extirpate the mufquitoes, alledgingthat groves near the dwellings are hauntsand fhelters for thole perfecuting infefts. Some plantationshave not a fingle tree (landing ; and whereany have been left, it is only a fmall coppice or clump,nakedly expofed and deftiture j perhaps fifty or anhundred trees {landing near the dwelling-houfe, havingno lofty cool grove of expanfive Live Oaks,Laurel Magnolias, and Palms, to fhade and protedtthem, exhibiting a mournful, fallow countenance jtheir native perfe6lly formed and gloffy green foliageas if violated, defaced, and torn to pieces bythe bleak winds, fcorched by the burning fun-beamsin fummer, and chilled by the winter frofls.In the evening I took up my quarters in the beautifulifle in fight of Mount Royal. Next day, aftercollecting what was new and worthy of particularnotice, I fet fail again, and called by the way atMount Royal. In the evening arrived fafe at thestores, bringing along with me valuable colledions.^CHAP.

KWITH AMERICA.(f^^CHAP. IX.At the trading- houfe I found a very large partyof the Lower Creeks encamped in a grove, juftwithout the pallifadoes. This was a predatory bandof the Siminoles, confifting of about forty warriorsdeftined againftthe Cha6laws of Weft Florida. Theyhad juft arrived here from St. Auguftine, wherethey had been with a large troop of horfes for fale,and furni/lied themfelves with a very liberal fup~ply of fpiriruous liquors, about twenty kegs, eachcontaining five gallons.Thefe fons of Mars had the continence and fortitudeto withfland the temptation of even taftinga drop of it until their arrival here, where theypurpofed to Jupply themfelves with necefiary articlesto equip them for the expedition, and proceedon diredly; but here meeting with our youngtraders and pack-horfe men, they were foon prevailedon to broach their beloved neftar ; which inthe end caufed fome difturbance, and the confumptionof moft of their liquor for after they had once-,got a fmack of it, they never were fober for tendays, and by that time there was but littleleft.In a few days this feftival exhibited one of themoft ludicrous bacchanalian fcenes that is poffibleto be conceived. White and red men and womenwithout diftindion, palled the day merrily withthefe jovial, amorous topers, and the nights in convivialfongs, dances, and facrifices to Venus, as longas they could ftand or move j for in thefe frolicksboth fexes take fuch liberties with each other, andaa^

::254 TRAVELS tna(5b, without conflraint or fhame, fuch fcenes as theywould abhor when fober or in their fenfes ; andwould endanger their ears and even their livesbut at laft their liquor running low, and beingmoft of them fick through intoxication, they becamemore fober; and now the dejefted lifelelsfots would pawn every thing they were in poffelTionof, for a mouthful of fpirits to fettle theirftomachs, as they term^ it. This was the timefor the wenches to make their market, as they hadthe fortitude and fubtilty by difTimulacion and artificeto fave their Ihare of the liquor during thefrolick, and that by a very fingular ftratagemi for,at thefe riots, every fellow who joins in the club,has his own quart bottle of rum in his hand, holdingit by the neck fo fure, that he never loofes holdof it day or night, drunk or fober, as long as thefrolick continues ; and with this, his beloved friend,he roves about continually, finging, roaring, and reelingto and fro, either alone, or arm in arm with abrother toper, prefenting his bottle to every one,offering a drink ; and is fure to meet his belovedfemaleif he can, whom he complaifantly begs todrink with him. But the modeft fair, veiling herface in a mantle, refufes, at the beginning of thefrolick Jbut he prefies and at lafl infills. She beingfurnifhed with an empty bottle, concealed in hermantle, at lafh confents, and taking a good longdraught, blufhes, drops her pretty face on her bofom,and artfully difcharges the rum into her bottle,and by repeating this artifice foon lills itthis flie privately conveys to her fecret flore, andthen returns to the jovial game, and fo on duringthe feitival ; and when the comic farce is over,the wench retails this precious cordial to them at herown price.There

NORTH AMERICA. 255There were a few of the chiefs, particularly theLong Warrior their leader, who had the prudenceand fortitude to refift the alluring temptation duringthe whole farce ;but though he was a powerful chief,a king, and a very cunning man, he was not ableto controul thefe madmen, although he was acknowledgedby the Indians to have communionwith powerful invifible beings or fpirics, and onthat account efteemed worthy of homage and greatrefpeft.After the Indians became fober, they began toprepare for their departure. In the morning earlythe Long Warrior and chiefs fent a meflenger toMr. M^Latche, defiring to have a talk with himupon matters of moment ; accordingly, about noonthey arrived. The conference was held in the piazzaof the council houfe : the Long Warrior and chiefswho attended him took their feats upon a longbench adjoining the fide or front of the houfe, reachingthe whole length of it, on one hand ; and theprincipal white traders on the other, all on thefame feat. I was admitted at this conference j Mr.M'Latche and the Long Warrior fat next to eachother; my late comipanion, the old trader, and my*felf fat next to him.The Long Warrior fpake, faying, that he andhis companions were going to fight their enemiesthe Chaftaws ;and that fome of his affociatesbeing in want of blankets, fhirts, and fome otherardcles, they declined fupplying themfclves withthem at St. Auguftine, becaufe they had rather (lickclofe to their old friend Mr. Spalding, and bringtheir buck-lkins, furs, and other produce of theircountry (which they knew were acceptable) tohis

a^6TRAVELS INhis trading-houfe, to purchafe what they wanted*Buc not having the fkins, &c. with them to pay forfuch things as they had occafion for, they doubtednot, Dut that on their return they fhould bringwith them fufficient not only to pay their debts,about to be contrafted, but be able to make otherconfiderable purchafes, as the principal object ofthis expedition was hunting on the plentiful bordersof the Chadlaws. Mr. M'Latche hefitating, andexpreffing fome diflatisfaftion at his requell, particularlyat the length of time and great uncertaintyof obtaining pay for the goods ; and moreoverhis being only an agent for Meflrs. Spalding and Co.and the magnitude and unprecedented terms of theLong Warrior's demands -, required the company'saffent and diredions before he could comply withtheir requefl.This anfwer difpleafed the Indian chief, and Iobferved great agitation and tumult in his paffions,from his adions, hurry and rapidity of fpeech andexpreflion. The old interpreter who fat by afkedme if I fully underftood the debate ; I anfwered thatI apprehended the Long Warrior was difpleafed jhe told me he was fo, and then recapitulated whathad been faid refpe6ling his queftions, and Mr,M'Latche's anfwer i adding, that upon his hefitationhe immediately replied, in feeming difgufl andgreat exprefTions of anger, " Do you prefume torefufe me credit? certainly you know who I am,and what power I have : but perhaps you do notkrtow, that if the matter required, and I pleafed,I could command and caufe the terrible thunder*now rolling in tUe flcies above, to defcend• It tliuiitltreil, lightened, aiul rained ia a violent manner ilurins thefedebates.upon

NORTH AMERICAb 257Upon your head, in rapid fiery fhafts, and lay youproftrate at my feet, and conlume your ftores,turning them inftantly into dud and allies." Mr.M'Latche calmly . replied, that he was fully fenfiblethat the Long Warrior was a great man, apowerful chief of the bands of the refpedable Siminoles,that his name was terrible to his enemies,but ilill he doubted if any man upon earthhad fuch power, but rather believed that thunderand lightning were under the direftion of the GreatSpirit ; but however, fince we are not difpofed todeny your power, fupernatural influence and intercourfewith the elements and fpiritual agents, orwithhold the refpe6l and hom.age due to fo great aprince of the Siminoles, friends and allies to thewhite people ; if you think fit now, in the prefenceof us all here, command and caufe yon terriblethunder, with its rapid fiery fliafts, to defcend uponthe top of that Live Oak* in front of us, rend it iapieces, fcatter his brawny limbs on the earth andconfume them to afhes before our eyes, we willthen own your fupernatural power, and dread yourdifpleafure.After fome filence the prince became more calmand eafy j and returned for anfvver, that recolledingthe former friendfhip and good underftanding whichhad ever fubfifted betwixt the white people and redpeople of the Siminole bands, and in particular, themany a(fts of friendfhip and kindnefs received fromMr. M*Latche, he would overlook this affront j heacknowledged his reafoning and expoftulations to bejuft and manly, that he fhould fupprefs his refentment,and withhold his power and vengeance at prefent.Mr. M'Latche concluded by faying, that he was not* A large ancient Live Oak flood in the yard about fifty yards dill.nce.m

i55lTRAVELS If?in the leafl: intimidated by his threats of deftroyinghim with thunder and lightning, neither was he•difpofed in any manner to difpleafe the Simiooles,and fhoiild certainly comply with his requifitions,as far as he could proceed without the advice anddircftions of the company ; and finally agreed tofupply him and his followers with fuch things as theyflood mofl in need of, fuch as Ihirts, blankets, andfome paints, one half to be paid for direftly, andthe remainder to ftand on credit until their returnfrom the expedition. This determination entirelyfatislied the Indians. We broke up the conferencein perfeft amity and good humour, and theyreturned to their camp, and in the evening, ratifiedit with feafting and dancing, which continued allnext day with tolerable decorum. An occurrencehappened this day, by which I had an opportunityof obferving their extraordinary veneration or dreadof the rattle fnake. I was in the forenoon bufy inmy apartment in the council-houfe, drawing fom©curious flowers ; when, on a fudden, my attentionwas taken off by a tumult without, at the Indiancam.p. I ftepped to the door opening to the piazza,where I met my friend the old interpreter, whoinformed me that there was a very large rattlefnake in the Indian camp, which had taken pofTefTionof it, having driven the men, women and childrenout, and he heard them faying that they would fendfor Puc-Puggy (for that was the name which theyhad given me, fignifying the Flower Hunter) tokill him or take him out of their camp. I anfwered,that I defired to have nothing to do with him,'apprehending fome difagreeable confequences j anddefired that the Indians might be acquainted that Iwas engaged in bufinefs that required applicationand quiet, and was determined Co avoid it if6 poffible.

NORTH AMERicAi^rhpofTible. My old friend turned about to carry myanfwer to the Indians. I prefently heard them approachingand calling for Puc-Piiggy. Starting upto efcape from their fight by a back door, a partyconfiding of three young fellows^ richly drefledand ornamented, fi:epped in, and with a countenanceand action of noble fimplicity, amity and complaifance,requefted me to accompany them to theirencampment. I defircd them to excufe me at thistime; they pleaded and entreated me to go withthem, in order to free them from a great rattlefnake which had entered their camp ; that none ofthem had freedom or courage to expel him ; andunderftanding that it was my pleafure to colledl alltheir animals and othernatural produ6lions of theirland, defired that I would come with them and takehim away, that I was welcome to him. I at lengthconfented, and attended on them to their encampment,where I beheld the Indians greatly diflurbedindeed ; the men with flicks and tomahawks, andthe women and children colledted together at adiftance in affright and trepidation, whillt the dreadedand revered ferpent leifurely traverfed theircamp, vifiting the fire-places from one to another^picking up fragments of their provifions, and lickingtheir platters. Tlie men gathered around me, excitingme to remove him : being armed with alightwood knot, I approached the reptile, who inftantlycollected himfelf in a vaft coil(dieir attitudeof defence) I caft my miffile weapon at him, whichluckily taking his head, difpatchcd him inftantly,and laid him trembling at my feet. I took outmy knife, fevered his head from his body, then tu filingabout, the Indians complimented me with everydemonftration of fatisfa6tion and approbation formy heroifm, and friendfhip fqr them. I carried ofJS s ' ihc

iBOTRAVELS INthe head of the ferpent bleeding In my hand as atrophy of victory ; and taking out the mortal fangs,depofited them carefully amongft my colle6lions. Ihad not been long retired to my apartment, beforeI was again roufed from it by a tumult in the yard;and hearing Puc-Puggy called on, 1 ftarted up,when inftantly the old interpreter met me again,and told me the Indians were approaching in orderto fcratch me. I aflced him for what ? he anfweredfor killing the rattle fnake within their camp.Before I could make any reply or efFeft my efcape,three young fellows finging, arm in arm, came upto me. I obferved one of the three was a youngprince who had, on my firft interview with him, declaredhimfelf my friend and proteftor, when hetold me that if ever occafion fhould offer in his prekncCyhe would rifk his life to defend mine or myproperty. This young champion ftood by his twoafTociates, one on each fide of him : the two affectinga countenance and air of difpleafure and importance,inftantly prefenting their fcratching inftruments,and flourifhing them,fpoke boldly, and faidthat I was too heroic and violent, that it would begood for me to lole fome of my blood to make memore mild and tame, and for that purpofe they werecome to fcratch me. They gave me no time to expoftulateor reply, but attempted to lay hold onme, which I refifted ; and my friend, the youngprince, interpofed and puilied them off",faying thatI was a brave warrior and his friend ; that theyIhould not infuk me; when inftantly they alteredtheir countenance and behaviour : they all whoopedin chorus, took me friendly by the hand, clappedme on the flioulder, and laid their hands on theirbreafts in token of fmcere friendfhip, and laughingaloud, feid I was a fincere friend to the Siminoles,3 a wor-

NORTH AMERICA.z6la worthy and brave warrior, and that no one Ihouldhereafter attempt to injure me. T.iey then all threejoined arm in arm again and went off, (houting andproclaiming Puc-Puggy was their friend, &c. Thusit Teemed that the whole was a ludicrous farce tofatisfy their people, and appeafe the manes * of thedead rattle Inake.The next day was employed by the Indians inpreparations for their departure, fuch as taking uptheir goods from the trading houfe, coUeding togethertheir horfes, making up their packs. Sec.and the evening joyfully fpent in fongs and dances.The fucceeding morning, after exhibiting the warfarce, they decamped, proceeding on their expeditionagainft their enemy.• Thefe people never kill the rattle fnake or any other ferpent, faying ifthey do fo, the fpirit of the killed funke will excite or influence his living;kindred or relatives to revenge the injury or violence done to him whenaiivetCHAP.

[6'$TRAVELS INCHAP. X.But let us again refume the fubjefl of the rattlefnake j a wonderful creature, when we confiderhis fornn, nature, and dirpofition. It is Certainthat he is capable by a punfture or fcratch of oneof his fangs, not only to kill the largeft animal inAmerica, and that in a few minutes time, but toturn the whole body into corruption ; but fuch isthe nature of this dreadful reptile, that he cannotrun or creeo falter than a man or child can walk,and he is never known to ftrike until he is firrtaffauked or fears himfelf in danger, and even thenalways gives the earlieft warning by the rattles atthe extremity of the tail. I have in the courfe ofmy travels in the Southern ftates (where they are thelargeft, moft numerous and fuppofed to be the moftvenomous and vindiclive) ft-ept unknowingly fo clofeas almoft to touch one of them with my feet, andwhen I perceived him he was already drawn up incircular coils ready for a blow. But, however incredibleit may appear, the generous, I may faymagnanimous creature lay as ftill and motionlefs as ifinanimate, his head crouched in, his eyes almoftfhut. I precipitately withdrew, unlefs when I havebeen fo Ihocked with furprife and horror as to be ina manner rivetted to the fpot, for a iTiort time nothaving ftrength to go away ; when he often flowlyextends himfelf and quietly moves off in a directline, unlefs purfued, when he ereds his tail as far asthe rattles extend, and gives the warning alarm byintervals. But if you purfue and overtake him withji lliew of enmity, he inftantly throws himfelf intothe

NORTH AMERICA.it^Jthe fpiral coil ; his tail by the rapidity of its motionappears like a vapour, making a quick tremulousfound ; his whole body fwells through rage,continually rifing and falling as a bellows ; his beautifulparticoloured fkin becomes fpeckled and roughby dilatation ; his head and neck are flattened, hischeeks fwollen and his lips conftridcd, difcoveringhis mortal fangs ; his eyes red as burning coals,and his brandifhing forked tongue of the colour ofthe hottefl: flame, continually menaces death anddeftrudion, yet never ftrikes unlefs fure of hismark.The rattle fnake is the largefl: ferpent yet knownto exift in North America. I have heard of theirhaving been feen formerly, at the firft fettling ofGeorgia, feven, eight, and even ten feet in length,and fix or eight inches diameter ; but there are noneof that fize now to be feen ; yet I have {cen themabove fix feet in length, and above fix inches in.thicknefs, or as large as a man's leg ; but their generalfize is four, five, and fix feet in length.They are fuppofed to have the power of fafcinationin an eminent degree, fo as to inthral theirprey. It is generally believed that they charmbirds, rabbits, fquirrels and other animals, and byfl:edfafl:ly looking at diem poflTefs them with infatuation: be the caufe what it may, the miferablecreatures undoubtedly ilrive by every polTiblemeans to efcape, but alas ! their endeavours are invain, they at lafb lofe the power of refift:ance, andflutter or move flowly, but reluilantly, towards theyawning jaws of their devourers, and creep intotheir mouths, or lie down and fufler themfclves tobe takrn and fwallowed.S 4,Since,

;264 TRAVELS IWSince, within the circle of my acquaintance, Iam known to be an advocate or vindicator of thebenevolent and peaceable difpofition of animalcreation in general, not only towards mankind,whom they feem to venerate, but always towards oneanother, except where hunger or the rational anduecefTary provocations of the fenfual appetite interfere,I fhall mention a few inftances, amongftmany, which I have had an opportunity of remarkingduring my travels, particularly with regard tothe animal I have been treating of I Ihall ftridlyconnne myfelf to fa6ts.When on the fea-coafl of Georgia, I confented,with a few friends, to make a party of amufementat filhing and fowling on Sapello, one of the feacoaft iflands. We accordingly defcended the Alatamaha,crofiTed the found and landed on the Northend of the ifland, near the inlet, fixing our encampmentat a pleafant fituation, under the fhade of agrove of Live Oaks, and Laurels *, on the high banksof a creek which we afcended, winding through afait marfh, which had its fource from a fwamp andfavanna in the illand: our fituation elevated andopen, commanded a comprehenfive landfcapethe great ocean, the foaming furf breaking on thefandy beach, the fnowy breakers on the bar, thecndlefs chain of iflands, checkered found and highcontinent all appearing before us. The divertingtoils of the day were not fruitlefs, affording us oppo!tunides of furnifhing ourfelves plentifully with avariety of game, fifh and oyfters for our fupper.About two hundred yards from our camp was acool fpring, amidit a giuve of the odoriferous My-* Magnolia gi andifloia, callea by the inhabitants the Laurel.rica s

ica:NORTH AMERICA. 265the winding path to this faliibrious fountain ledthrough a grafTy favanna. I vifited the fpring fevcraltimes in the night, but little did I know, or anyof my carelefs drowfy companions, that everytime we vifited the fountain we were in imminentdanger, as I am going to relate. Early in themorning, excited bv unconquerable third, I a-rofe and went to the fpring ; and having, thoughtlefsof harm or danger, nearly half paft the dewyvale, along the ferpentinc fo ;t-path, m.y hafty ftepswere fuddenly flopped by the f ght of a hideous ferpcnt,the formidable rattle fnake, in a high Ipiralcoil, forming a circular mound half the height ofmy knees, within fix inches of the narrow path.As foon as I recovered my fcnfes and flrength fromfo fudden a furprife, I ftarted back out of his reach,where I flood to view him : he lay quiet whiUl Ifurveyed him, appearing no way furprifed or diflurbed,but kept his half-fliut eyes fixed on me.My imagination and Ipirits were in a tumult, almoflequally divided betwixt thanklgiving to the fupremcCreator and Preferver, and the dignified nature ofthe generous though terrible creature, who had fufferedus all to pafo many times by him during thenight, without injuring us in the leafl, although wemufl have touched him, or our fleps guided therefromby a fupreme guardian fpirit. I haflened backto acquaint my allociates, but with a determinationto prote6l the life of the generous ferpent. Iprefently brought my companions to the place, whowere, beyond exprefTion, lurpriied and terrified atthe fiL'.ht of the animal, and in a moment acknowledgedtheir efcape from deflrutlion to be miraculous; and I am proud to afTert, tliat all of us, exceptone perlbn, agreed to let him lie undiflurbed, andthat

266 TRAVELS Iffthat perfon was at length prevailed upon to fufferhim to efcape.Again, when in my youth, attending my fatheron a journey to the Catfkill Mountains, in the governmentof New-York ; having nearly afcendedthe peak of Giliad, being youthful and vigorous inthe purfuit of botanical and novel objefts, I hadgained the fummit of a deep rocky precipice, a-headof our guide j when juft entering a fhady vale, Ifaw, at the root of a fmall flirub, a fingular andbeautiful appearance, which. I remember to haveinftantly apprehended to be a large kind of Funguswhich we call Jews ears, and was juil drawing backmy foot to kick it over ; when at the inilant, myfather being near, cried out, "A rattle fnake, my" and jerked me back, which probably faved myfon !life. I had never before feen one. This was of thekind which our guide called a yellow one, it wasvery beautiful, fpeckJed and clouded. My fatherpleaded for his life, but our guide was inexorable,laying he never fpared the life of a rattle fnake,and killed him j my father took his fldn and fangs.Some years after this, when again in companywith my father on a journey into Eaft Florida, onthe banks of St. Juan, at Fort Picolata, attendingthe congrefs at a treaty between that governmentand the Creek Nation, for obtaining a territoryfrom that people to annex to the new government;after the Indians and a detachment from the garjifonof St. Auguftine had arrived and encampedftparatciy, near the fort, fome days elapfed beforethe bufinefs of the treaty came on, waiting the arrivalof a veffel from St. Auguftine, on board ofwhich were the prefents for the Indians. My fatheremployed this time of leifurc in little excurfions

NORTH AMERICA.^€fRons round about the fort ; and one morningsbeing the day the treaty commenced, I attendedhim on a botanical excurfion. Some time after wehad been rambUng in a fvvamp about a quarter ofa mile from the camp, Ibeing a-head a few paces,my father bid me obferve the rattle fnake beforeand juft at my feet. I flopped and faw the monfterformed in a high fpiral coil, not half his length frommy feet : another ftep forward would have put mylife in his power, as I muft have touched if notitumbled over him. The fright and perturbation ofmy fpirits at once excited refentment ; at that timsI was entirely infenfible to gratitude or mercy. Iinftai^tly cut off a little fapling, and foon difpatchedhim : this ferpent was about fix feet in length, andas thick, as an ordinary man's leg. The rencounterdeterred us from proceeding on our refearchesfor that day. So I cut off a long tough withe orvine, which faftening round the neck of the flainferpent, I dragged him after me, his fcaly bodyfounding over the ground, and entering the campwith him in triumph, was foon furrounded by theamazed multitude, both Indians and my country-:men. The adventure foon reached the ears of thecommander, who fent an officer to requeft that,if the fnake had not bit himfeif, he might havehim ferved up for his dinner. I readily deliveredup the body of the fnake to the cooks, and beingthat day invited to dine at the governor's table, fawthe fnake ferved up in feveral diflies; governorGrant being fond of the fiefh of the rattle fnake.I tailed of it, but could not fwallow it. I, however^was forry after killing the ferpent, when coolly recollectingevery circumllance. He certainly had itin his power to kill me almoft inftantly, and I makefiQ doubt but that he was confcious of it. I promifed

268 TRAVELS INmifcd myfelf that I would never again be acceflaryto the death of a rattle fnake, which promife I havejiDvariably kept to. This dreaded animal is eafily^xHled ;a flick no thicker than a man's thumb is fufficientto kill the largeft at one ftroke, if well direfted,either on the head or acrofs the back ; norcan they make their efcape by running off, nor indeeddo they attempt it when attacked.The moccafin fnake is a largeand horrid ferpentto all appearance, and there are very terrifyingftories related of him by the inhabitants of theSouthern ftates, where they greatly abound, particularlyin Eafl Florida : that their bite is alwaysincurable, the fiefli for a confiderable fpace aboutthe wound rotting to the bone, which then becomescarious and a general mortification enfues, whichinfallibly deftroys the patient j the members of thebody rotting and dying by piecemeal : and that thereis no remedy to prevent a lingering miferable deathbut by immediately cutting away the flefh to thebone, for fome diftance round about the wound.In fhape and proportion of parts they much refemblethe rattle fnake, and are marked or cloudedmuch after the fame manner, but the colours moredull and obfcurej and in their difpofition feem toagree with that dreadful reptile, being flow of progrefllon,and throwing themfelves in a fpiral coilready for a blow when attacked. They have one peculiarquality, which is this, when difcovered, andobferving their enemy to take notice of them, afterthrowing themfelves in a coil, they gradually raifetheir upper mandible or jaw until it falls back nearlytouching their neck, at the fame time flowly vibratingtheir long purple forked tongue, their crookedpoifonous fangs directed right at you, which gives thecreature

NORTH AMERICA.'2^9creature a moft terrifying appearance. They arefrom three to four and even five feet in lengthandas thick as a man's leg; they are not numerou'?,yet too common, and a fufficient terror to the n.iierablenaked flaves, who are compelled to labourin the fwamps and low lands where only they abound.I never could find any that knew an inflance ofany perfon's lofing their life from the bite of them,only by hearfay. Yet I am convinced it is highlyprudent for every perfon to be on their guard a-gainft them. They~ appear to be of the viper tribe,from their fwelling of their body, and flattening theirneck when provoked, and from their large poifonousfangs : their Iiead, mouth and eyes are remarkablylarge.There is another fnake in Carolina and Floridacalled the moccafin, very different from this j whichis a very beautiful creature, and I believe not of adeftru^live or vindiftive nature. Thefe when grownto their greateft fize are about five feet in length,and near as thick as a man's arm ; their fkin fcalybut fmooth and fiiining, of a pale grey and flcy colourground, uniform.ly marked with tranfverfe undulatoryringlets or blotches of a deep nut brown,edged with red or bright Spanilh brown. They appearinnocent, very active and fv/ift, endeavouringto efcape from one ; they have no poifonous fangs.Thefe are feen in high foreft lands, about rottenlogs or decayed fallen limbs of trees, and they harbourabout old log buildings. They feem^ to be afpecies, if not the very fame fnake, which in Pcnnfylvaniaand Virginia is called the wampom fnake ; buthere in warmer Southern climes they grow to a muchlarger fize, and from the fame accident their colourmay be more variable and deeper. They are bythe

270 TRAVELS INthe inhabitants aflerted to be dangeroufly venomous,their bite incurable, &c. But as I could never learnan inftance of their bite being mortal, or attendedwith any dangerous confequence, and have hadfrequent opportunities of obferving dieir nature anddilpofition, I am inclined to pronounce them anmankind.innocent creature, with refpe6t toThe baftard rattle fnake, by feme called groundrattle fnake, is a dangerous little creature : theirbite is certainly mortal if prefent medical relief isnot adminiftered :they feem to be much of the natureof the afp or adder of the old world.This little viper is in form and colour much likethe rattle fnake, but not fo bright and uniformlymarked : their head is broader and fhorter in proportionto the other parts of their body : theirnofe prominent and turned upwards : their tail becomesfuddenly fmall from the vent to the extremity,which terminates with three minute articulations,refembling ratdes : when irritated they turnup their tail, v/hich vibrates fo quick as to appearlike a mill or vapour, but caufes little or no foundor noife; yet it is the common report of the inhabitants,that they caufe that remarkable vehementnoife, fo frequendy obferved in foreils in theheat of fummer and autumn, very tcrifying toftrangers, which is, probably, caufed by a very fablefmall infeft of the genus cicadae, or which arecalled locufts in America ; yet it is pofllble I maybe miftaken in this conjecture. This dangerous viperis from eight to ten inches in length, and ofproportionable thicknefs. They are fpiteful, fnappiflicreatures ; and throwing themfelves into a littlecoil, they fwell and flatten themfelves, continuallydarting out their headj and they feem capable offpringing

they:NORTH AMERICA.Ijtrpringing beyond their length. They feem deftitutcof the pacific dilpoiition and magnanimity of therattle fnakc, and are unworthy of an alliance withhim.No man ever laves their lives, yet they remaintoo numerous, even in the oldeft fettled parts ofthe country.The green fnake is a beautiful innocent creaturethey are from two to three feet in length, but notfo thick as a perfon's little finger; of the finell greeacolour. They are very abundant, commonly feenon the limbs of trees and fnrubs : they prey uponinfefts and repdles, particularly the little greenchameleon : and the forked tailed hawk or kitefeeds on both of them, fnatching them off tl\cboughs -of die trees.The ribband fnake is anodier vciy beautiful innocentferpcnt: they are eighteen inches in length,and about the thicknefs of a man's litde finger ithe head is very fmall ; the ground colour of a full,clear vermilion, variegated with tranverfe bars orzones of a dark brown, which people fancy reprefentsa ribband wound round die creature's body:they are altogether inoffenfive to man, and are in amanner domeflic, frequenting okl wooden buildingsopen grounds and plantations.The chicken fnake is a large, fcrong and fvvifcferpent, fix or fcvcn feet in length, but fcarcelyfo thick as a man's wrift-,are of a cinereous,earthy colour, and ftriped longitudinally with broadlines or lifts, of a duf}s.y or blacki(h colour. Theyare a domeftic fnake, haunting about houfes andplantations ; and would be ufeful to man if tamedand properly tutored, being great devourers of rats,but

227TRAVELS INbut they are apt to diflurb hen-roofts and preyupon chickens. They are as innocent as a wormwith refpeft to venom, are eafily tamed, and foonbecome very familiar.The pine or bull fnake is very large and inoffenfivewiih refpeft to mankind, but devours fquirrels,birds, rabbits, and every other creature it cantake as food.They are the largeft fnake yet knownin North America, except the rattle fnake, and perhapsexceed him in length : they are pied black andwhite : tlicy utter a terrible loud hifllng noife,founding very hollow and like diftant thunder, whenirritated, or at the time of incubation, when themales contend with each other for the defired female.Thefe ferpents are alfo called horn fnakes,from their tail terminating with a hard, horny fpur,which they vibrate very quick when difturbed, butthey never attempt to flrike with itj they havedens in the earth, whither they retreat precipitatelywhen apprehenfive of danger.There are many other fpecies of fnakes in theregions of Florida and Carolina; as the waterfnake, black fnake, garter fnake, copper belly, ringneck, and two or three varieties of vipers, befidesthofe already noticed in my journal. Since I havebegun to mention the animals of thefe regions, thismay be a proper place to enumerate the other tribeswhich I obferved during my peregrinations. I fliallbegin with the frogs (ranae.)(i) The largeft frog known in Florida and onthe fea coaft of Carolina, is about eight or nineinches in length from the nofe to the extremity ofthe toes : they are of a dufky brown or black colouron the upper fide, and their belly or under fidewhite.

: J;KORTH AMERICA.Nvhlte, fpotted and clouded with dufky fpOts of variousfize and figure; their legs and thighs alfo arcvariegated with tranfverie ringlets, of dark brownor black; and they are yellow and green abouttheir mouth and lips. They live in wet fwamps andmarihes, on the fliores of large rivers and lakestheir voice is loud ind hideous, gready refemblingthe o-runtincr of a fwine; but not near as loud as1Jthevoice of tht^ bull frog of Virginia and Pcnnfylvania :neither do they arrive to half dieir fize, the bull frogbeing frequendy eighteen inches in length, andtheir roaring as loud as that of a bull.(2) The bell frog, fo called becaufe their voiceis fancied to be exaftly like the found of a loudcow bell. This tribe being very numerous, anduttering their voices in companies or by large diftritlsjwhen one begins another anf"wers j thus thefound is caught and repeated from one to another,to a great diftance round about, caufing a furprifingnoife for a few minutes, riling and finking accordingas the wind fits, when it nearly dies away,or is foftly kept up by diftant diftrifts or communities:thus the noife is repeated continually, andas one becomes familiarifed to it, is not unmufical,though at firft, to flrangers, it feems clamorous anddifgufting.(3) A beautiful green frog inhabits the grafTv)marlhy fliores of thefe large rivers. They are verynumerous, and their noife exactly refcmblcs thebarking of little dogs, or the yelping of puppiesthefe likewife make a great clamour, but as theirnotes are fine, and uttered in chorus, by feparatebands or communities, far and near, rifing andfalhng with the gentle breezes, atfords a pleafingkind of mufic.T (4) There

^74TRAVELS T5i(4) There is befides this a lefs green frog,,which is very common abo^it houfes : their notesare remarkably like that of young chickens : thefc'raife their chorus immediately preceding a Ihower©f rain, with which they feem delighted.(5) A little grey fpeckled frog is in prodigiousnumbers in and about the ponds and favannason high land, particularly in Pine forefts : their languageor noife is alfo uttered in chorus, by largecommunities or feparate bands ; each particularnote refembles the noife made by ftriking two pebblestogether under the furface of the water, whicli.when thoufands near you utter their notes at thefame time, and is wafted to your ears by afudden flow of wind, is very furprifing, and doesnot ill refem.ble the rufhing noife made by a vaft .quantity of gravel and pebbles together, at onceprecipitated from a great height.(6) There is yet an extreme diminutive fpeclesof frogs, which inhabits the graffy verges of pondsin favannas : thefe are called favanna crickets, areof a dark afh or dufky colour, and have a verypickednofe. At the times of very great rains, inthe autumn, when the favannas are in a mannerinundated, they are to be feen in incredible multitudesclambering up the tall grafs, weed, &c. roundthe verges of the favannas, bordering on the higherground; and by an inattentive perfon might be takenfor fpiders or other infedts. Their note is veryfeeble, not unlike the chattering of young birds orcrickets.(7) The i}\id frog, fo called in Pennfylvania fromtheir appearing and croaking in the fpring feafon^at the time the people tiih for Hiad: this is abeautiful

;NORTH AMERICA,CI75beautiful fpotted frog, of a flcnder fonn, fiveor fixinches in length from the nofe to tlie extremitiesof a dark olive green, blotched with clouds andringlets of a dufky colour: thefe are remarkablejumpers and cnterprifing hunters, leaving theirponds to a great difiance in fearch of prey. Thcyabound in rivers, fvvamps and marfiies, in the Southernregions; in the evening and fukry fumiTicrdays, particularly in times of drought, are verynoifyi and at fome diftance one would be alm.ollperfuaded that there were afft^mblies of men in fetiousdebate. Thefe have alfo a flicking Or cluckingnoife, like that which is made by fucking in thetongue under the roof of the mouth. Thefe ardthe kinds of water frogs that have come under myobfervation ;yet T am perfuaded that there are yetremaining feveral other fpecies.(81 The high land frogs, commonly called toads^are of two fpecies, the red and black. The fortner,which is of a reddifli brown or brick colour^is the largeft, and may weigh upwards of one poundwhen full grown : they have a difagreeable lookjand when irritated, they fwell and raife themfelvesiip on their four legs and croak, but are no waysvenomous or hurtful to man. The other fpeciesare one third lefs, and of a black and darkdufl^y colour.The legs and thighs of both are marked withblotches and ringlets of a darker colour, which appearmore confpicuous when provoked :the fmallerblack fpecies are the mod numerous. Early in thefpring feafon, they alTemble by numberlefs multitudesin the drains and ponds, when their univerfalcroaking and fhouts are great indeed, yet in fijm.edegree not unharmonious. Afcer this breeding ti;rethev crawl out of the water aad fpread then.felvesT 2all

•XjSTkAVELS I.Nfall over the coiintiy. Their fpawn being hatche:^in the warm water, the larva is there nouriflied,palling through the like metamorphofes as thewater frogs j and as foon as they obtain four feet,whilft yec no larger than crickets, they leave thefluid nurfery-bed, and hop over the dry land aftertheir parents. ,The food of thefe amphibious creatures, whenout of the water, is every kind of infeft, reptile,&c. they can take, even ants and fpiders; naturehaving furniilied them with an extreme long tongue,which exudes a vifcid or glutinous liquid, they beingfecreted under covert, fpring fuddenly upontheir prey, or dart forth their tongue as quick aslightning, and inftantly drag into their devouringjav/s the unwary infeft. But whether they prey uponone another, as the water frogs do, I know not.There are feveral fpecies of the lizard kind bcfidesthe alligator, which is by naturalifts allowedto be a fpecies of that genus.The green lizard or little green chameleon is apretty innocent creature: the kurgeft I have ktv\were not more than (cvtn inches in length : theyappear comimonly of a fine green colour, having alarge red gill under their throat: they have the facultyof changing colour, which, notvvithllandingthe fpccious reafcning of phyfiologifts, is a veryiurprifing phenomenon. Tlie ftripcd lizard, cnlledfcorpion, and the blue bellied fquamous lizards 1have already mentioned. Hiere is a large coppercoloured lizard, and a very flender one of a fineblue colour, and very fwiftj the tail of this laft,which is very long and flender, is as fubjedt to bebroken off as that of the glafs fnake. 1 hefc two\:3:

yetNORTH AMERICA.T^Jlaft are become very fcarce,and when fecn are difcoveredabout old log buildings.Here are feveral Ipecics of the tortoife, befidesthofe already mentioned ; as the fmall land tortoife,already defcribed by every traveller. Therciis a good figure and defcription of him in G.Edwards's Gl. Nat. Mill. vol. II. p. 2.05. Thereare two fpecies of frefh- water tortoifes inhabitingthe tide water rivers ; one of which is large, weighingten or twelve pounds, the back fliell of nearlyiin oval form, and raifed very high, the bellyfliell flat and entire, but deeply fcolloped oppofitethe legs. The other fpecies are fmall, comparatively,and the back fhell lightly raifed : bothfpecies are food for mankind, and elleemed delicious.Of beafls, the otter (lutra) is common, but morefo in Weft Florida, towards the mountains. Thefeveral fpecies of m.uftela are con^imoii ; as themink, weafel and polecat (puLorius). Racoons andopofTums are in great abundance 3 thefe animalsare efteemed delicious and healthy food. Thereare two fpecies of wild-rats ; but neither of themnear as large as the European houfe rat, which arecommon enough in the fettlements of rlie whitepeople. Here are very few mice -, I have feenfome, particularly in Charlcfton. I law two in alittle wire cage, at a gentleman's houfe, which wereas white as fnow, and their eyes red. Ihere areyet a few beavers in Eaft-Florida and Georgia, butthey abound moft in the north of Georgia, and inWeft- Florida, near the mountains. But the muf!:-cat (caftor cauda lanceolara) is never feen in Carolina,Georgia or Florida, within one hundredjT)iles of the fea coaft, and very few in the moftT 3northern

ZyZ TRAVELS INnorthern parts of thefc regions ; which muft beconfidered as a nioft favourable circumftancej bythe people in countries where there is fo muchbanking and draining of the land, they being themoft dellructive creatures to dykes.The roe-buck I have already mentioned. Thebears are yet too numerous : they are a ftrong creature,and prey on the fruits of the country, and willlikev/ife devour young calves, fwine and fheep ;butI never cculd learn a well attefced inftance of theirattacking mankind. They weigh from five hundredto fix hundred weight when full grown and fat :f^Ltfh is greatly efteemed as food by the natives.dicirThe v^ild car, felis cauda truncata, (lynx) iscommon enough: it is a fierce and bold littleanimal, preying on young pigs, fawns, turkeys, d-zc.Th?y are not half the fize of a commiOn cur dog,are generally of a greyilh colour, and fomewhattabbied ; iheir fides bordering on the belly are variedwith ycllov/iili brown Ipors, and almoft blackwavingftreaks, and brindled. I have been crediblyinformed that the wolves here are frequently feenpied, black and white, and of other mixed colours.They alfemble in comp:inies in the night time,howl and bark all together, efpecially in cold winternights, which is tci Haying to the wandering bev/iidtrredtrav-ji:er.The foxt^s of Carolina and Florida are of thefmaller red fpecies : they bark in the night roundabout plantudons, but do not bark twice in theIhme place ; t!iey move precipirately, and in a fewminutes are heard on the oppofite fide of the plantation,or L.t a great diitance : it is laid that dogsare terrified at the noife, and cannot be perfuadedor

NORTH AMERICA. 279\->r compelled to piirfu.e tliem. They commitdepredations on yDung pigs, lambs, poultry,The mole is not Co common here as in thenorthern eftates.The bats of Florida fcem to Le the fame fpeciesof thofe in Pennfylvania and Virginia, and veryJittle different from the European.Here are feveral fpecies of fquirrels, (fciurus)peculiar to the lower countries, or maritime paresof Carolina and the Floridas, and fom.e of themare very beautiful creatures.The great black fox fquirrel is above two feetin length from the nofe to the end of the tail,which for about two inches is milk white, as arethe ears and nofe. The red fox fquirrel is of thefame fize and form, of a light reddifn brown upperfide, and white under fide, the ears and tip end ofthe tail white.The grey fox fquirrel is rather larger than•either of the foregoing ; their belly white, as arethe ears, nofe, and tip of the tail. Thefe threefeem to be varieties of the fame fpecies.The common grey fquirrel isof the preceding.about half the fizeThe black fquirrel is about the fame fize, and all-over of a fliining jet black.The little grey fquirrel is much Icfs than eitherof the preceding fpecies ; it is of a brovvnifh greyupper fide, and white belly.T 4The

ZZO TRAVELS INThe ground fquirrel, or little flriped fquirrel o{Pennfylvania and the northern regions, is neverfeen here, and very rarely in the mountains northweftof thefe territories ; but the flying fquirrel(fciurus volans) isvery common.The rabbit (lepus minor, cauda abrupta, pupillisatris) is pretty common, and no ways differingfrom thofe of Pennfylvania and the northern ftates.Having mentionedmoft of the animals in thefeparts of America, which are moft remarkable ojlifeful, there remains, however, yet fome obfervationson birds, which by fome may be thought notimpertinent.There are but few that have fallen under myobfervation, but have been mentioned by the zoo-]oc;ift3, and moft of them very well figured inCatefDy's,or Edwards's works.But thefe authors have done very little towardselucidating the fubjedl of the migration of birda,q: accounting for the annual appearance and difappearance,and vanifning of thefe beautiful andentertaining beings, who vifit us at certain ftatedfeafons. Catefbyhas faid very little on this curiousfubject ; but Edwsrds more, and perhaps all, or asmuch as could be faid in truth, by the moft able andingenious, who had not the advantage and opportunityof ocular obfervation ; wh\ch can only beacquired by travelling, and re'iding a whole yearat leaft in the various climates from north to fouth,to the full extent of their peregrinations j or minutelyexamining the trafts and oblervations of curiousand induftrious travellers who have publiiliedtheir memoirs on this fubjecl. There may perhapsbe fome perfons who confidcr this enquiry not tob^

NORTH AMERICA.28 Ibe produftive of any real benefit to mankind, andpronounce fuch attention to natural hiitory merelyfpeculative, and only fit to amufe and entertain theidle virtuoi'o ; however the ancients thought otherwife: for, with them, the knowledge of the pafiageof birds was the ftudy ot their priefts and philofophers,and was confidered a matter of real and indifpenfibleufe to the Hate, next to aftronomy j aswe find their fyilem and practice of agriculture wasin a great degree regulated by the arrival and difappearanceof birds of pailage; and perhaps a ca»-lendar under fuch a regulation at this time, mightbe ufefui to the huilaandman and gardener.But however attentive and obfervant the ancientswere on this branch of fcience, they feem tohave been very ignorant or erroneous in their conjecturesconcerning what became of birds, aftertheir difappearance, until their return again. Inthe fouthern and temperate climates fome imaginedthey went to the moon : in the northern regionsthey fuppofed that they retired to caves and hollowtrees,for fhelter and fecurity, where they remainedin a dormant flate during the coid feafons : andeven at this day, very celebrated men have alfertedthat fwallows (hirundo) at the approach of winter,voluntarily plunge into lakes and rivers, defcendto the bottom, and there creep into the mud andflime, where they continue overwhelmed by ice Ina torpid (late, until the returning fummer warmsSthem again into life ; when they rife, return to thefurface of the water, immediately take vv'ing, andagain people the air. This notion, though the latefr,feems the moil difficult to reconcile to reafon andcommon fenfe, refpeding a bird fo fwift of flightcan with eafe and pleafure move through thethat itair

or2.§2 TRAVELS INair even fwifter than the winds, and in a fcvrhours time fhift twenty degrees from north tofoiith, even from frozen regions to climes wherefroil is never {ocn, and where the air and plainsare replenifhed with flying infefts of infinite variety,ics favourite and only food.rVnnlylvania and Virginia appear to me to bethe ciixiatesin North-America, where the greateft•yariety and abundance of thefe winged emigrants.choofe to cejebrate their nuptials, and rear theiro/Tspring, which they annually return with, to theirwinter habitations, in the foutiiern regions of N.America ; and moft of thofe beautiful creatures,which annually people and harmonife our forefts andgTOves, in the fpring and fummer fcafons, are birdsof paffage from the fouthward- The eagle, i. e.taico kucocephalus, or bald eagle, falco maximus,or gi-eat grey eagle, falco major cauda ferruginea,falco piillarius, falco columbarius, ftrix pythaulis,Ihix acclamatus,. ftiix affio, tetrao tympanus, orphcafant of Pennfylvania, tetrao urogailus, ormountain cock or grous of Pennfylvania, tetraominor five cocurnix, or partridge of Pennfylvania,picus, or woodpeckers of feveral fpecies, corvuscarnivorus, . raven, corvus frugivora, or crow,corvus glandarius f. corvus criftatus, or blue jay,alaiida m.axima, regulus atrofufcus minor, or marlliVvTcn, fitta, or nuthatch, meleagris, are perhapsnearly all the land birds which continue the yearround in Pennfylvania. I might add to thefe thehkic bird, motacilla fialis, mock bird, turdus polygtottos,and ibmetimies the robin redbreaft, turdusnrigratcrius, in extraordinary warm winters ; andakhoush I do not pretend to afllrt as a known!ru:h, ^et it may be found on future; obfervation8 that

:NORTH AMERICA.1S3(dmt moft of thefe above mentioned are ftrangers;or not really bred where they wintered ; but arcmore northern families, or fojourners, bound foutherlyto more temperate habitations ; thus puflijngeach other foutherly, and policfling their vacatedplaces, and then back agaiii at tlie return Oifpring.Very, few tribes of birds build, or rear diciryoung, in the f:^uth or maritime parts of Virginiaand Carolina, Georgia and Florida ;yet all tliclcnumerous tribes, particularly of the foft billedkinds, which breed in Pennfylvania, pals in theipring feafon through thefe regions in a few weekstime, making but very fliort ftagcs by the wayand again, but few of them winter there, on theirreturn foutherly; and as I have never travelledthe continent fouth of New Orleans, or the pointof Florida, where few or none of them are to befeen in the winter, I am entirely ignorant how faributhward they condnue their route, during theirabfence from Pennfylvania ; but perhaps none ofthem pafs the tropic.When in my refidence in Carolina and Florida,I have feen yaft flights of the houfe fwallov/ (hirundopelafgia) and bank martin (hirundo riparia) paffingonward north toward Pennfylvania, where theybreed in the fpring, about the middle of Majxh,and likewife in the autumn in September or Oftober,and large flights on their return ibuthward.And it is obfervable that they always avail thcnifelvesof the advantage of Ingh and favourable,winds, which li];ewilc do all birds of paflage.Thepewit, or black cap flycatcher, of Catefbv, is theBrfl; bird of paflFage which appears in the fpring inPennfylvania, which is generally about the flril-, ormiddle

1^4TRAVELS INmiddleof March ; and then wherever they appear,we may plant peas and beans in the open grounds,(vicia fativa) French beans (phafeolus) fow raddifhes,(raphanus) lettuce, (laduca) onions, (cepa)paftinaca, daucus, and almoft every kind of ejculencgarden feeds, without fear or danger fromfrofts ; for although we have fometimes frofts afrertheir firft appearances for a night or two, yet notfo fevere asto injure the young plants.In the fpring of the year the fmall birds of paffageappear very fuddenly in Pennfylvania, whichis not a little furprifing, and no lefs pleafing : atonce tie woods, the groves, and meads, are filledwith their melody, as if they dropped down fromthe fi

';NORTH AMERICA. 285f These arrive in Pennfylvania in the autumn,from the North, where they continue during thewinter, and return again the fpring following, Ifiippofe to breed and rear their young j and thefekinds continue their journies as far as South Caroh'naand Florida.J Thefe arrive in the fpring in Carolina andFlorida from the South, breed and rear their young,and return South again at the approach of winter,but never reach Pennfylvania, or the NorthernStates.IIThese are natives of Carolina and Florida,where they breed and continue the year round.^ These breed and continue the year round inPennfylvania.Strix.The Owl.fStrix ardicus, capite levi, corporc toto niveo;the o-reat white ovrl.^ Strix pythaules, capite aurito, corpore rufbthe great horned owl.•} Strix maximus, capite aurito, corpore niveo ;the great horned white owl.^ Strix acclamator, capite levi, corpore grifeothe whooting owl.fStrix peregrinator, capite aurito, corpore verficolore,the fharp winged owl.

.^5 TRAVELS ipr^ Falco regalis ;Falco. Eagle'^to'and Hawkvthe great grey eagle.lj[ F. leucocephalusi the bald eagle.* F. pifcatorius ; the fidiing eagle.^ F. Aquilinus, cauda ferrug. ;great eagle hawk,«[[ F. gallinarius ; the hen hawk.^' F. piillarius j the chicken hawk.* F. columbarius ; the pigeon hawk.€| F. niger ; the black hawk.* F. ranivorus ; the marfh hawk.* F. fparveriiis j the leafthawk or fparrow fparkoa MiLvus.Kite Hawk.[[Falco furcatus ; the forked tall hawk, or kite.IIF. glaucus Jthe Iharp winged hawk of a palefl-iy-blue colour, the tip of the wings black.[IF. fubceruleus ; the fharp winged hawk, of adark or dufl^y blue colour.IPfittacus Carolinienfis ; the parrot of Carolina^or parrakeet.CoRvus.The Crow kind.* Corvus carnivorus ; the raven.C. maritimus ; the great fea-fide crow, or rooki[[^ C. frugivorus ; the common crow.^ C. criftatus, f. pica glandaria j the blue jay.^ C. Floridanus, pica glandaria minor ithe little;jay of Florida.^ Gracula qulfcula ; the purple jackdaw of theifca coail.a Kitc^ h.iwks. Thefe are cliarrifl'erifed by having long (hnrp pointedivinj'', being of fwift rtip,ht, Iniling without flapping their wings, lean lighcbodies, anil fe(.'din2 out of chtir claws on the wing, as they gently fail roundand ruund.Pica>;lamlar'a cernlca non crifta'a, the little jay of fall Florida.* G.acub

NORTH AMEIWCA.^^y* Gracula purpurea ; the lelTcr purple jackdaw,or crow blackbird.* Guculus Carolinieniis ; the ciickoo of Carolina,Picus.Woodpeckers.iJPIcus principalis ; the greatcfl: crefted woodpecker,having a white back.* P. pellacus ithe great red crefted black woodpecker.* P. erythrocephalus ; red headed woodpecker** P. auratus ; the gold winged woodpecker.

ft88tRAV£tS tl^* Mufclcapa cantatrix ; the little domeflic fly«catcher, or green wren.* M. fylvicola ; the little red eyed fiycatchen* Columba Carolinienfis, the turtle dove.[{C. paflerinaj the dove.jjC. migratoria; the pigeon of pafTage or Vi'ildpigeon.* Alauda magna ; the great meadow lark.f A. campeftris, gutture flavo ; the fky lark.^ A. migratoria, ccrpore toto ferrugineo; thelittlebrown lark.^ Turdus migratorius ; the fieldfare, or robirlredbreafl.* T. rufus ; the great, or fox coloured thruHi.* T. polyglottos Jthe mocking bird.* T. meiodes ; the wood thrufh.* T. minimus, vertice auro j the leaft poldcncrown thrufh.* Oriolus Baltimore ; Baltimore bird or hang neft** O. fpurius ; the goldfinch or idterus minor.* Merula flammula ; fand-hill red bird of Carolina.* M. Marilandica ; the fummer red bird.* Garrulis auftralis ; the yellow breaited chat.* Lucar lividus, apice nigr^. j the cat bird, orchickenbird.^ Ampelis garrulus jcrown bird, or cedar bird.Granivorous Tribes.^ Meleagrls Americanos ; the wild turkey.% Tetrao lagopus ; the mountain cock, or groilB.% T. rympanus ; the pheafant of Pennfylvania.^ T. minor, f. coturnix ithe quail or partridge.^ Loxia cardinalis j the red bird, or Virginianightingale.t L. roliro forficato ; the crofs beak.* L. ccrulea ^ the blue crofs beak*1 * Emberlza

NORTH AMERICA,l^q^ Emberiza oryzivora ; (i) the rice bird.*E. lividaj the blue or Hate coloured rice bird.-j-* E. varia; (2) the pied rice bird.ifLinaria ciris ; the painted finch, or nonpareil.* L. cyanea ; the blue linnet.^ Carduelis Americanus ; the goldfinch,f C. minus; the leffer goldfinch.f C. pufilus; the leaft finch.* Fringilla erythrophthalma ; the towhe bird,•fF. purpurea ; the purple finch.f F. cannabina ; the hemp bird.-j-F. rufaj the red, or fox-coloured ground orhedge fparrow.t F. Fufca ; the large brown white throat fparrow.* Pafler domefticusj the little houfe fparrow orchipping bird.* P. paluftris ; the reed fparrow.* P. agrcftis ; the little field fparrow,j" P. nivalis j the fnow bird.* Calandra pratenfis; the May bird.* Sturnus prsdatoriusj the red winged ftarlingjor corn thief.* S. ftercorarius ; the cowpen bird.^ Motaclila fialis ; the blue bird. (Rubicula Americana,Cat.)* M. fluviatilis ; the water wagtail.* M. domeftica (regulus rufus) ; the houfe wren.«[* M. paluftris ;(reg. minor) the marfh wren.* Nl. Caroliniana -, (reg. magniis) the great wreflof Carolina, the body of a dark brown, thethroat and breaft of a pale clay colour.* Regulus grifeus ; the little bluiih grey wren.fR. criftatus -, thegolden crown wren.* (1,2) Are generally fwppofed to he male and female of ihe fame fpecies(i).or the pLed rice bird, the male, and { i) or Che yellow, Che female.

1^0TRAVELS INj- R. criftatus alter vertice rubini coloris] the rubycrown wren. (G. Edwards.)* R. peregrinus, gutture flavo i the olive colouredyellow throated wren.* Ruticilla Americana ; the redftart.* Lufcinia, f. philomela Americana; the yelloWhooded titmoufe.* Parus criftatus j bluifh grey crefted titmoufe.^ P. Europxus, the black cap titmoufe.* P. luteus ; the fummer yellow bird.* P. cedrus uropygio fiavo ; the yellow rump.* P. varius ; various coloured little finch creeper.* P. peregrinus j little chocolate breaft titmoufe,* P. aureus vertice rubro ; the yellow red pole.* P. aurco vertice ; the golden crown flycatcher.* P. viridis gutture nigroj the green blackthroated flycatcher.* P. alis aureis; the golden winged flycatcher.* P. aureus alis ceruleisj the blue winged yellowbird.*-P. giifeus gutture luteo j the yellow throatedcreeper.* Hirundo pelafgia cauda aculesrta j the houfefwallow\* H. purpurea ; the great purple martin.* H. riparia vertice purpurea ; the bank martin.* H. cerdo j the chimney fwallow.J Caprimulgus lucifugus j the great bat, or chuckwills widow.* "C. Americanus ; night hawk, or whip poor will,. Amphibious, or A(iyATic Birds,Or fuch as obtain their food, and refide, iii andnear the water.Grus.The Crane.IjGrus clamator, vertice papillofo, corpore ni-4 veo

;NORTH AMERICA.^piVeo remlglbiis nigtis ; the great whoopingcrane.J G'. pratenfis ; corpore cinereo, vertice papillofothe great favanna crane.Ardea.The Heron.

Q.^2 TRAVELS 1?^f N. Americana ; the greater godwit.^ N. fluvlalis ; the redfliank or pool fnipe.^ N. magnus riifus ; the great fea coaft curlew,* N. minor campeftris ; the lefTer field curlew.^ N. cine reus ; the feafide lefler curlew.* Scolopax Americana rufa ; great red woodcock,* S. minor arvenfis ; the meadow fnipe.* Tringa rufa j the red cootfooted tringa.T. cinerea, gutture albo; the white throatedcootfooted tringa.T. vertice nigro ; black cap cootfooted tringa.% T. maculata ; the fpotted tringa.% T. grifea ; the litde pond fnipe.^ T. fufca ; the little brown or alh colouredpool fnipe.f T. parva ; the little tringa of the fea fhore,called fand bird.* Morinclla Americana ; the turnftone or dotrel.f Cygnus ferus ; the wild fwan.f Anfer Canadenfis ; the Canadian goofe.f A. alis cjErulis ; the blue winged goofe.i A. fufcus maculatus ; the laughing goofe.I A. branta, corpore albo, remigibus nigris ; thewhite brant goofe.f A. branta grifea maculata; the great particolouredbrant, or grey goofe.f Anas fera torquata major, caput et collumviridi fplendentia, dorfum grifeo fufcum,peftore rufefcentc, fpeculum violaceum; thegreat wild duck, called duck and mallard.\ A. nigra maxima j the great black duck.-j-A. bucephala ; the bull-neck and buffaloe head.f A. fubcasrulea ; the blue bill.f A. Icucoccphala ; th^ black white faced duck.f A. caudacuta ; the fprig tail duck.j- A. ruftica ; the little brown and white duck.t A.

NORTH AMERICA. 293f A. principalis, maculata; the various colouredduck, his neck and bread as though ornamentedwith chains of beads.j- A. minor pidla; the little black and whiteduck called butterback.QUERQUEDULAE.* Anas fponfaj the fummer duck.Tcal.t A. difcors ; the blue winged teal.f A. migratoria -, the leafl green winged teal.* A. fiftulofa i whiftling duck.Mergus major peclore rufo; great fifhing duck,.f)• M. cucLillatus ; the round crefted duck.* Colymbus migratorius ; the eel crow.IIC. Floridanus; the great black cormorant ofFlorida, having a red beak.f C. colubrinus, cauda elongatai the fnake birdof Florida.

'''or494 trav:evs inCharadrus. The Plover kind.* Charadrus vocifcrus j the kiklea or chatteniigplover..1* C. maculatus ; the great field fpotted plover.* C. minor ; the little Tea fide ring necked plover.* Hismai-opus ofti-ealegus ; the will willtt or oy--fter catcner.Fulica Floridanaj the great bjue or flate colouredcoot of Florida.II* Rallus Virginianus ; the foree bird or littlebrown rail, aifo called widgeon in Pennfyl.J R. aquaticus rninorj the little dark blue waterrail.* R. rafus Amerlcanus ; the greater brown rail.R. major fubcaeruleus ; the blue 'flate colouredwater rail of Florida.II* Phoenicopteru'; ruberj the flamingo, feen aboutthe point of Florida, rarely as far N, as St;Auguftine. .I am convinced there are yet feveral kinds ofland birds, and a great number of aquatic fowl, thathave not come under my particular notice j thereforefliall leave them to ti e inveftigation of futuretravelling naturalifts of greater ability and induf-There yet remain fome obfervations on the paffage,and breeding of birds, &c. which may be properto notice in this place.I fhall firft mention the rice bird, (embcrizaoryzivora.) It is the commonly received opinionthat they are male and female of the fime fpecies,i. e. the black pied rice bird the male, and a yellowifliclay colou.ed one the female: the laftmentionedappearing only in the autumn, when the- -A orvza

NORTH AMERICA.2^5oryza zizania are about ripening ;yet in my opinionthere are fome ftrong circumftances which feem tooperate againft fuch a conje6lure, though generallybelieved.In the fpring, about the middle of May, theblack pied rice bird (which is called the male) appearsin Pennfylvania ; at that time the great yellowephemera, called May fly, and a fpccies of locuftaappear in incredible multitudes, the favoritedelicious food of thefe birds, when they are fprightly,vociferous, and pleafingly tuneful.When I was at St. Auguftine, in E. Florida, inthe beginning of April, the fame fpecies of grafsrhopperswere in multitudes on the fields and commonsabout the town j when great flights of thelemale rice birds fuddenly arrived froiu the South,which by feeedingon thefe inie

296 TRAVELS INpied or male kind, which I thought extraordinary ^and obferving it to the gentleman, he afTured methat they were all of the male kind, taken the precedingfpring, but had changed their colour, andwould be next fpring of the colour of the pied,thus changing colour with the feaf ;ns of the year.If this is really the cafe, it appears they are both ofthe fame fpecies intermixed, fpring and fali. In theipring they are gay, vociferous and tuneful birds.Ampelis garrulus; crown bird or cedar bird,Thefe birds feed on various forts of fucculent fruitand berries, affociating in little flocks or flights,and are to be feen in all the regions from Canadato New Orleans on the MiflifTippi, and how muchfarther South and South- Weft I know not. The/obferve no fixed time of appearance in Pennfylvania,but are to be feen a few days in every monthof the year; fo that it is difficult to determine atwhat feafon they breeds, or where. The longeftperiod of their appearance in Peqnfyivania isin theipring and fii ft of June, at the time the early cherriesare ripe, when they are numerous ; and in theautumn when the Cedar berries are ripe (JuniperusAmericana) they arrive in large flights, and, widithe robins (turdus migratorius) and yellow rump(parus cfcdrus) foon ftrip thofe trees of their berries,after which they dilappear again ; but in Novemberand December they appear in fmaller flights, feedingon the fruit of the Perfimpn (Dyofperos Virginiana;) and fome ;ire feen till March, fubfiftingupon Smilax berries. Privet (Liguftrum vulgare)and other pennanent fruits j after which they difappearuntil May and June;. I have been informedby fome people in Pennfylvania, that they havefound their ncfts at thef^ feafons in Pennfylvania.~Linaria

JIORTH AMERICA, 597Linarta ciris (emberiza ciris Linn.) or painte4finch, or nonpareil of Cutefbv, is not f-^ n .^Jorthof Cape Fear, in North Caiolina, and fciclom tenmiles from the fea coaft, or perhaps twenty orthirty miles, near the banks of great rivei- , infragrant groves of the Orange (Citrus aurantium)Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Cafline, Sideroxylon,&:c.isLinaria cyanea (tanagra Linn.) the bkie linnet^fuppofed by fome to be the nonpareil, in an earlyftage of life, not being yet arrived t > his brilliancyand variety of colours j but this is certainly a miftake,for the blue linnet is longer and of a flendererconfiguration, and their notes m >re variable, vehementand fonorous. And they inhabit the condnentand fea coaft iflands from Mexico to r^oya Scoda,from the fea coaft, Weft beyond the Apalacheanand Cherokee mountains. The fongs of the nonpareilare remarkably low, foft and warbling, exceedinglytender and foothing.Cat:eft)y, ^n his hiftory of Carolina, fpeaking ofthe cat-bird (mufcicapa verrice nigro) fays, " Theyhave but one note, which refembles the mewingof a cat;" a miftake very injurious to the fame ofthat bird ; he, in reality, being one of our mofteminent fongfters, litde inferior to the philomelaor moclc-bird ; and, in. fome remarkable inftances,perhaps, exceeds them both, in particular as a buffoonor mimick. He endeavours to imitate everybird and animal, and in many attempts does not illfucceed, even in rehearfing the fongs, which he attentivelyliftens to, from the lliepherdefs and ruralfwain iand will endeavour and fucceed to admiration,in repeating the melodious and variable airsfrom inftrumental mufic, and this in his wild ftateof

a^STRAVELS INof nature. They are a kind of domeftic birdduring dieir fpring and fummer refidence in Pennfyl*yania, building dieir nefts in gardens and fhelteringthemfelves in groves near the houfes. They caufegreat trouble and vexation to hens that have broodsof chickens, by imitating their diftrefiing cries, inivhich they fecm to enjoy much delight, and caufefome amufement to perfons who are diverted atfuch incidents. They are the firft bird heard finginginthe morning, even before break of day.They feem to be a tribe of birds feparated bynature from the motacillae, with which the zoologiftshave clafied them, and appear allied to a tribe peculiarto Apierica, to which Edwards has given thepame of manakin. In their nature they feem totake place between the thruih (turdus) and motacilla,their beak being longer, (Ironger, and ftraighterthan the motacilla, and formed for eating fruit,"which is their chief food ; yet they will feed on reptileinfefts, but never attempt to take their prey onthe wing.Catefby is chargeable with the like miftake withrefped to the little thrulli (t. minor) and the foxcoloured thrufh (t. rufus) both eminent fingers, andthe latter little inferior to the mock-bird. Theformer for his llirill, fonorous and elevated llrainsin the high, fliady forefts ; and the latter for variety,foftnefs and conftant refponfes in the hedgesand groves near houfes.But yet Catefby has fome right of claim to ourexcufe and juftificiuion, for his detradion of thefame due to thefe eminent muficians of the grovesand forefts, when we confider that he refided andmade his collcftions and obfervations, in the regions

HpRTH AMERICA.2^51ons which are the winter retreats and refidence ofthefe birds, where tluy rarely fing; as it is oblervableand moft true, that it is only at the time of incubation,that birds fing in their wild (late of nature.The cat bird, great and lefs thruOi and fieldfare,feldom or never build in Carolina beneath the mountains,cxrept the great or fox coloured thrufli in afew inftances ; but all tlieie breed in Fennfylvania.The parakeets (pficaciis Carolinienfis) neverreach fo far North as Pennfylvania, wnich to me isUnaccountable, confidering they arc a bird of fuchfingularly rapid flight, chat they could eafily performthe journey in ten or twelve hours from North Carolina,where they are very numerous, and we aboundwith all the fruits which they delight in.I was afllued in Carolina, that thefe birds, for amonth or two in the coldeft winter weather, houfethemfelves in hollow Cyprefs trees, clinging faft toeach other like bees in a hive, where they continuein a torpid Hate until the warmth of the returningIpring reanimates them, when they ilTue forth fromtheir late dark, cold winter cloilters. But I livedfeveral years in North Carolina, and never was withefsto an inftance of itj yet I do not at all doubtbut there have been inftances of belated flocks thusfurprifed by fudden fevere cold, and forced into fuchfhelter, and the extraordinary feverity and perfeveranceof the feafon might have benumbed theminto a torpid fleepy ftate ; but that they all willinglyfliould yield to fo difagreeable and hazardousa fituation d^e^. not feem reafonable or natural,when we confider that they are a bird of the fwifceftflight, and impatient of fevere cold.They are eafilytamed, when they become docile and familiar, butnever learn to imitate the human lano-uaw.Both

:rjOOTRAVELS INBoth fpecies of the Baltimore bird (orlolus, Linn,ifterus, Cat.) are ipring birds of paflage and breed,in Pennfylvania; they have loud and mufical notes.The yellow breafted chat (oenanthe. Cat. motacillatrcchil'js, Linn.) is in many inftances a verylingular bird -, the variablenefs and mimickry of hisnotes or fpeech, imitating various creatures j and afurprifing faculty of uttering a coarfe, hollow foundingnoife in their throats or crops, which at timesfeems to be at a great diftance, though uttered by abird very near, and vice verfa. They arrive inPennfylvania from the South, late in the month ofMay, breed and return again early in autumn.It is a matter of enquiry, what fliould have inducedthe zoologifts to clafs this bird with the motacillae,when they difcover no one charafleriftic to inducefuch an alliance j this bird having a remarkablethick, ftrong bill, more like the frugivorous tribesand in my opinion they are guilty ot the like overlishtin claffinsc the fummer red-bird with the mufcicapa,this bird having a thick, ftrong bill, approachingnearer the ftarhng (fturnus.)Thefe hiftorical obfervations being noted, we willagain refume the fubjed of our journey.C9 AP.

NORTH AMERICA.;^OtCHAP.XLAfter the predatory band of SIminoles, uiK^erthe condu6l of the Long Warrior, had decamped,Mr. M'Latche invited me with hiin on a vilit to aaIndian town, about twelve miles diftance from thetrading- houfe, to regale ciirfelves at a feaft ofWater Melons and Oranges, the Indians havingbrought a canoe load of them to the trading-houfethe day preceding, which they difpofed ot to thetraders. This was a circumllance pretty extraordinaryto me, it being late in September, a feafonof the year when the Citruels are ripe and gone InGeorgia and Carolina; but here the weather yetcontinued hot and fultry, and confequently thiscool, exhilarating fruit was flill in high relifh andeftimation.After breakfafting, having each of us a Siminolchorfe completely equipped, we fat off: the ridewas agreeable and varioufiy entertaining. Wekept no road or pathway conftantly, but as Indianhunting tracks by chance fuited our courle, ridingthrough high open, pine forefts, green lawns andflowery favannas in youthful verdure and gaity,having been lately burnt,' but now overrun with agreen enamelled carpet, chequered with hommocksof trees of dark green foliage, interfered with ferpentinerivulets, their banks adorned with Ihrubberiesof various tribes, as Andromeda formofiffimja.And. nitida. And. viridis, And. calyculata. And.axillaris, Kalmia fpuria, Annona alba, &c. Aboutnoon we arrived at the town, the fame little villageI paffe^

30-2 TRAVELS l^I paflf!J by on my afcent of the river, on the banksof the little lake below Charlotia.We were received aiid entertained friendlily bythe Indians, the chief of the village conducing usto a grand, airy pavilion in the center of the village.It was four fquare; a range of pillars or poftson Cvich fiJe llipporting a canopy compoled ofPalmetto leaves,> woven or thatched together, whichiliaded a level platform in the center, that was afcendedto from each fide by two fteps dr flights,each aDout twelve inches high, and i'cven or eightfecL in breadth, all covered with carpets or mats,curioufly woven, of fplit canes dyed of various colours.Here being feated or reclining ourfelves,after fmoaking tobacco, bafl^ets of the choicellfruits were brought and fet before us.The fields furrounding the tov/ns and groves wereplentifully ftored Vv'ith Corn, Citruels, Pumkins,Stnuaihes, Beans, Peas, Potatoes, Peaches, Figs,Oranges, &c.Towards evening we took our leave, and arrivedat the (lores before night, having in the courfe ofthe day collefter^ a variety of curious fpecimens ofvegetables, feeds, and roots.Tlie company being bufily employed intheir packs of leather and loading the veflel,formingand Ibeing eager to augment my collections during myfiay here, I crolTed the river with a gang of ourpeople, who were tranfporting a party of horfesto" range in the meade)ws and plains on the fide oppofiteto the tradinsi-houfe : we carried them over ina large flat or fcow. The river was here above amile wide, but divided into a number of ftreams by•-•. numerous

NORTH AMERtCA,^^^finmerous Iflands, which occafioned the voyage tobe vtfry troiiblefonic, as moil of* the liorfes werelately taken wild out of" their ranges, and many ofthem young and untutored. Being under the neceifityof parting near the points of the iflands, theygrew refliefs and impatient to land, and it was withgreat difficulty we kept them on board; and at lafl,when within a quarter of a mile of the oppofitefhore, palTing between two illands, the horfes becameungovernable, and moll of them plunged intothe river and forced overboard one of our people.I being a pretty good fwimmer, in the midfl of thebuflle, and to avoid being beat over and perhapswounded, leapt out, and caught hold of the dockof one of the horfes. We all landed fafe on one ofthe iflands, about one hundred and fifty yards diftance,and the flat followed us. After a deal oftrouble and lofs of time, we got the horfes againinto the Icow, where lecuring them by withs andvines, we again iat off, and foon landed fafe on themain, at a high bluff' or bank of the river, where,after turning the horfes to paflure, and refting ourfelves,we Iat off on a vifit to a plantation on theriver, fix or eight miles difl:ance. On the way thitherwe difcovered a bee tree, which we cut down, andregaled ourfelves on the delicious honey ; leavingone of our companions to protedl the remainderuntil our return with a tub, to colledl it and carry itwith US; and in the evening we all returned fafewith our fweet booty to the trading-houfe.The veflTel being loaded and ready to depart, Igot all my colle6lions on board. My truily andfortunate bark I prefented to the old interpreter.Job Wiggensj often iny travelling coinpanio;i,friend

304 TRAVELS ^^f{vitnd and benefaftor; and taking an affe^lionat^and final leave of the worthy C. M'Latche and thewhole trading company, we fet fail in a neat littlefchooner for Frederica in Georgia, about the laft ofSeptember. We had a pleafant and profperousvoyage down the grand river St. Juan's, frequentlyvifiting the plantations on the banks of the river,efpecially at fuch times as oppofed by contrarywinds ; and according to promife did not negleftcalling on the generous and friendly Mr. Marlhal).who received me fo politely, and treated me witKfuch unparalleled friendfnip and hofpitality, whertafcending the river alone laft fpring.We never once went out to fea during thevoyage j for when we had defcended the river belowthe Cow-ford, we entered the found by a channelbetween Fort George iiland and the main^through which we pafied, and continued failing betweenthe fea ccaft iflands and the main to Fredericaon Ht. Simon's,On rr.y arri^^al at Frederica, I was again, as ufual.,friend] iiy received and accommodated by the excellentJohn S' Iding, Efq; and here learning that thehonourabk-.lenry Lawrens, Efq; had a large fhiploading a': ounbury for Liverpool, I determined toembrace fo favourable an offer for conveying mycoUedions to Europe ; and hearing at the fame timethat Mr. Lawrens was daily expeded in a velTel ofhis own, at his plantations on Broton Ifland andNew Flope, in order to take a loading of rice forthe cargo of the ftiip at Sunbury, I tranfported mycolle(5lions to Broton ; where meeting with Mr.-I-awrens, he gcneroufly permitted me to put mythings on board his veiiel,and gave me room withhimfcli"

himfelfin the cabin jNORTH AMERICA, 305and the merchant In Liverpool,to whom the fhip was confignedj being his friendand correfpondent, and a friend of Dr. Fothergill's,Mr. Lawrens propofed to recommend my collectionsand letters to his care.Thefe favourable circumftances thus co-operating,after bidding adieu to my friends and liberal patronsin thefe parts, I embarked on board this vefTel, andafter a iliort and pleafant palTage through the found,arrived at Sunbury, from v/hence, after flipping mycolled ions, I fat fail again for Charlellon, SouthCarolina ; where being arrived, I fpent the feaibnin fhort excurfions until next fpring; and duringthis time of my recefs I had leifure ta plan my futuretravels, agreeably to Dr. Fothergill's inftructions,and the council and advice of Dr. Chalmersof Charlefton, with other gentlemen of that city,eminent for the promotion of fcience and encouragingmerit and induflry.It was agreed that my future rout fhould be direftedWeft and South-Weft, into the Cherokeecountry and the regions of the Mufcogulges orCreeks,XJOUR-

JOURNALOFTHERAVELSCONTINUED.PART II.C II A P. I.ApKIL 22c1, 1776, I fat off from Charleftonfor the Cherokee nation, and after riding this dayabout twenty-five miles, arrived in the evening atJackfonfburg, a village on Ponpon river. The nextday's journey wns about the fame diftance, to apublic houfe or inn on the road.The next day, early in the morning, I fat offagain, and about noon flopped at a public houfe todine. After the meridian heats were abated, proceedingon till evening, I obtained good quarters ata private houfe, having rode this day about thirtymiles. At this plantation I obferved a large orchardof the European Mulberry tree (Morus alba) fomcof \\hich were grafted on flocks of tlie native Mulberry(Morus rubra); thefe trees v/cre cultivatedfor the purpofe. of feeding filk worms (phalaenabombyx). llaving breakfufled, I fr.t forward again.-•Ifoon

NORTH AMERICA.I foon entered a high foreft,^07continuing the fpaceof fifteen miles to the Three Sifters, a public ferryon Savanna river : the counrry generally verylevel; the foil a dark, loofe, fertile mould, on aftratum of cinereous-coloured tenacious clay ; theground fhaded with its native forefts, confifting ofthe great Black Oak, Quercus tinftoria, Q^ rubra,prinos, Q. hemifphenca, JuglansQ^ phellos, Q^nigra, J. rufticj, J. exaltata, Magnolia grandiflora,Fraxinus excelfior, Acer rubrum, Liriodendrontulipifera, Populus heterophylla, Morus rubra,Nyfla fylvatica, Platanus occidentalis, Tilia, Ulmuscampeftris, U. fubifer, Laurus faflafras, L. Borbonia,Ilex aquifolium, Fagus lylvatica, Cornus Florida,Halefia, /Efculus pavia, Sambucus, Callicarpa,and Stewartia malachodendron, with a varietyof other trees and fhrubs. This ancient fublimeforeft, frequently interltifted with extenfive avenues,viftas and green lawns, opening to extenfivefavannas and far diftant Rice plantations, agreeablyemploys the imagination, and captivates the fenfesby Icenes of magnificence and grandeur.The gay mock bird, vocal and joyous, mountsaloft on filvered wings, rolls over and over, thengently dcfcends, and prelides in the choir of thetuneful tribes.Having dined at the ferry, I croiTed the riverinto Georgia : on landing and afccnding the bank,wliich was here a North profpeCt, 1 obferved theDirca paluftris, growing fix or fcvcn feet high. Irode about tv/elve miles further throu'::i i.*ineForefts and favannas. In the evening 1 xook up myquarters at a delightful habitation, though n^t acommon tavern. Having ordered my horle a ILibleand provender, and retrefned my fpiiits with aX 2dnuic^ht

503 TRAVELS !irdraught of cooling Hqiior, I betook myfelf to contemplationin the groves and lawnS. Directing myHeps towards the river, I obferved in, a high Pineforefl en the border of a favanna, a great numberof cattle herded together, and on my nearer approachdifcovered it to be a cow pen : on my comingup I was kindly faluted by my holt and hisvi'ife, who I found were fuperintending a numberof fiaves, wcmcn, boys and girls, that were milkingthe cows. Here were about forty milgh cowsand as many young calves j for in thefe Southerncountries the calves run with the cows a wholeyear, the people milking them at the fame time.The pen, including two or three acres of ground,more or Itfs, according to the ftock, adjoining alivukt or run of water, is enclofed by a fence : inthis cnCiofure the calves are kept while the cowsare out at range : a fmalj part of this pen is partitionedoft to receive the covv's, when they comeup at evening : here are feverai ftakes drove intothe ground, and there is a gate in the partitionfence for a communication between the two pens.When the milkmaid has taken her fhare of milk,ilie loofes the calf^ Vv'ho ftrips the cow, which is nextmorning turned out again to range.I found thefe people, contrary to what a travellermight, perhaps, reafonably expecb, from tkeiroccupation and remote fituation from the capital orany commercial town, to be civil and courteous:and though educated as it were in the woods, noftrangers to fc-nfibiiity, and thofe moral virtuesv.hich grace and ornament the m.oil approved andadmired characters in civil fociety.After the vdVels were filled v;ith milk, the dailyand ribcral fupply of the friendly kinej and thegood

NORTH AMERICA.3O9good wife, with her maids and fervants, were returningwith it to the dairy ; th-j gentleman was acleifnre to attend to my enquiries and obierv -.tions,which he did with complaifance, and apparent p]eafure.On my obferving to him that his ftock ofhorned cattle muft be very confiderable to affordfb many milch cows at one time, he anfwered, thathe had about fifteen hundred head ": my flock isbut young, having lately removed from ibme diftanceto this place ; I found it convenient to partwith moil: of my old flock and begin here anew ;Heaven is pleafed to blefs my endeavours and induftrywith fuccefs even beyond my own expeftations."Yet continuing my interrogatories on thisfubjeft: your ftock I apprehend mutl be very profitable,being lb convenient to the capital and feaport, in affording a vafl quantity of beef, butter andcheefe, for the niarket, and mull thereby contributegreatly towards your emolument : "yes, I find myflock of cattle very profitable, r^d I conllantly contributetowards lupplying the m.arkets with beef;but as to the articles of butter and chccfc, I makeno more than what is expended in my own houfhold,and I have a confiderable family of blackpeople, who, though they are flaves, mufl be fed,and cared for : thole I have, were either chofen fortheir good qualities, or born in the family, and Ifind from long experience and obfervation, that thebetter they are fed, clothed and treated, the morefervice and profit we may expe6l to derive fromtheir labour : in fhort, I find my flock produces nomore milk, or any article of food or nourifhment,than what is expended to the befl advahtage a-rnongft my family and flaves."He added, come along with me towards the riverbank, where I have fome men at work fquaringX 3Pine

;310 TRAVELS INPine and Cyprefs timber for the Weft India marketIwill {how you their day's work, when you will readilygrant that I have reafon to acknowledge niyfelffufficiently gratified for the little attention beflowedtowards them. At yonder little new habitationnear the bluff on the banks of the river, Ihave letulcd my eideft fon ; it is but a few days fincehe was married to a deferving young woman.Havi-^g atlength arrived near the high banks ofthe majeftic Savanna, we ftood at the timber landing: aimioft every objed: in our progrefs contribu:cdto demonfbrate this good man's fyftem ofeconomy to be not only practicable but eligible ;anJ the (laves appeared on all fides a^ a crowd ofwicnei'ics tojuilify his indudry, huaianity, and liberalfpirit.The ilaves comparatively of a gigantic ftature,fat and rnuf-ular, were mounted on the mafTivetimber logs ; the regular heavy ftrokes of theirgleaming axes re-echoed, in the deep forefts; at thelame time, contented and joyful, the footy fons ofAfric f(/rgetLing their bondage, in chorus fung thevirtue^ and beneficence of their mafter in fongs oftheir ov/n compofition.The log or timber landing is a capacious openarea, the lofty pines* having been felled and clearedaway for a confiderable diftance round about,near an almoft perpendicular bluff or fteep bankoi the river, rifing up immediately from the waterto the licight of fixty or feventy feet. The logsbeing dragged tiy timber wheels to this yard, and••-•Pinus paluftris, Linn, the Ion- leaved Pitch Pine, or yellow Pins.landed

,NORTH AMERICA.JIIlanded as near the brink of this high bank as poffiblewith fafety, and laid by the fide of each other,are rolled off, and precipitated down the bank intothe river, where being formed into rafts, they arecond'jfted by flaves down to Savanna, about fiftymiles below thisplace.Having contemplated thefe fcenes of art and indulby,my venerable holt, in company with his fon,conduLted me to the neat habitation, v/hich is fituntedin a fpacious airy foreft, a little diftance fromthe river bank, commanding a comprehenfive andvaried profpe6l ; an extenfive reach of the river infront ; on the right hand a fpacious lawn or favanna; on the left the timber yard ; the vail ferulelow lands and forefts on the river upwards ; and theplantations adjoining. A cool evening arrived aftera fultry day. As we approach the door, conductedby the young man, his lovely bride arrayed in nativeinnocence and becoming modelly, with an airand fmile of grace and benignity, meets and falutesus ! what a Venus ! what an Adonis ! faid I in filenttranfport j every a6lion and fcatr.re feem to revealthe celeftial endowments of the mind : thougha native fprightlinefs and fenfibilicy appear, yetvirtue and difcretion direft and rule. The drefs ofthis beauteous fylvan queen was plain but clean,neat and elegant, all of cotton, and of her ownfpinning and weaving.Next morning early I fat forward profecutingmy tour. I purfued the high road leading fromSavanna to Auguda for the dillance of one hundredmiles or more, and then re-crofied the river at SilverBlufi-', a pleafant villa, the property and feat ofG. Golphinj efquire, a gentleman of very diilin-X 4guiilied

3li TRAVELS INgulilied talents and great liberality, who pofiefiedthe moft extenfive trade, connexions and influence,aniongft the South and South-Weft Indian' tribes,particularly with the Creeks and Chadtaws ; ofwhom I fortunately obtained letters of recommendationand credit to the principal traders refidingin the Indian towns.Silver Bluff is a very celebrated place. It is aconfjderable height upon the Carolina fhore of theSavanna river, perhaps thirty feet higher than thelow lands on the oppofite fhore, which are fubjetftto be overflowed in the Ipring and fall. This fteepbank rifcs perpendicularly out of the river, difcoveringvarious ftrata of earth ; the furface for a confiderabledepth is a loofe fandy loam, with a mixtureof fea fhells, efpecially oftreae j the next ftratum isclay, then fand, next marl, then clays again of variouscolours and qualities, which laft infenfibly mixor unite with a deep ftratum of blackifh or darkHate coloured faline and fulphureous earth, whichfeems to be of an aluminous or vitriolic quality,and lies in nearly horizontal lamina or ftrata of variousthicknefs. We difcovered bellemnitc^s, pyrites,marcafites and fulphureous nodules, fliining likebra s, fjme fingle of various forms, and others conglomerated,lying in this black flaty-like micaceousearth ; as alfo, fticks, limbs and trunks of trees,leaves, acorns, and their cups, all tranfmuted orchanged black, hard and Ihining as charcoal : wealfo fee animal fubftances, as if petrified, or whatare called ftiarks' teeth, (dentes carchariai) ; butthefe heterogeneous fubftances or petrifidions arethe moft abundant and confpicuous where there is alool'er kind of earth, either immediately upon thisvaft ftratum of black earth, or in the divifions ofthe

NORTH AMERICA.^1^the laminae. The furface of che ground upon thisbluff, extends a mile and a halt" or two niik-son the river, and Is from an half mile to a mile inbreadth, nearly level, and a good fertile foil ; as isevident from the vail Oaks, liickory, Mulberry,Black walnut and other trees and llirubs, which iireleft {landing in the old fields which are fpreadabroad to a great diftance ; and difcovers variousmonuments and veftiges of the refidcnce of theancients ; as Indian conical mounts, terraces, areas,&c. as well as remains or traces oi fortrelTes of regularformation, as if conftrudled after the modes ofEuropean military architedls, which are fuppofedto be ancient camps of the Spaniards who formerlyfixed themfelves at this place in hopes of findingfiiver.But perhaps Mr. Golphin's buildings and innprovements will prove to be the foundation of monumentsof infinitely greater cekbrity and perma--nency than either of the preceding eitablilhmcnts.The place which at this day is called fort Moore,is a ftupendous bluff, or high pej»pendicular bank,of earth, riling out of the river on the Carolinaihore, perhaps ninety or one hundred feet above thecommon furface of the water ; and exhihits a fingularand plcafing fpetlacle to a ftrangcr, efpeciailyfrom the oppofice Ihore, or as we pafs up or downthe river, prefencing a view of prodigious walls ofparty-coloured earths, chiefly clays and marl of variouscolours, as brown, red, yellow, blue, purple,white^ i^c. in horizontal ftrata, one ovxr the o-ther.Waiting for the ferry boat to carry me over,I walked alm.oft round the under fide of the bluff,tetwixt its iteep wall and the water of the river,which

514 TRAVELS INwhicli glided rapidly under my feet. I came to thecarcafe of a calf, which the people , told me hadfallen down horn the edge of the precipice above,being invited too far by grafs and fweet herbs,•which they iay frequently happens at this place. Inearly times, the Carolinians had a fort, and kept agood garrifon here as a frontier and Indian tradingpoft ; but Augufta fuperfeding it, this place was difmantled: and lince that time, which probably cannotexceed thirty years, the river hath fo much encroachedupon the Carolina fliore, that its bed nowlies where tlie fite of the fort then was : indeedfome told me that .the oppofite Georgia fhcre,where there is now a fine houfe and corn field,occupies the place.The fite of Augufta is perhaps the moft delightfuland eligible of any in Georgia for a city. An extenfivelevel plain oii the banks ot a fine navigableriver, which has its numerous fources in the Cherokeemountains, a fruitful and temperate region,whence, after roving and winding about thofe fertileheights, they meander through a fertile hilly country,and one after another combine 'in forming theTugilo and Broad rivers, and then the famous Savannariver ; thence they continue near an hundredmiles more, foUov/ing its meanders and falls overthe cararacls at Augufta, \Nhich crofs the river atthe upper end of the tovvU. Thefe tails are four orfive feet perpendicular height in die fummer feafonwhen rhe river is low. h'rom thefe cataracts upwards,tliis river with all its tributaries, as Broadriver. Little river, Tugilo,

:NORTH AMERICA,^I^by water, the Savanna uninterruptedly flows witha o-entle meandring courfe, and is navigable forveflels of tventy or thirty tons burthen to Savanna,vhere fliips oi" three hundjcd tons lie in a capaciousand fecure harbour.Auguila thus feated at the head of navigation,and jud be] v he conflux of feveral of its moltconfiderabie bran:hes, without a con'pc:itor, connmandsthe trttuc and commerce of vaft fruitfulregions above it, and from c\e!y fjde to a greatdiltance -, and 1 do not hefitate to pronounce as myopinion, will very loon become the metropolis ofGeorgia.*I chofe to take this route up Savanna river, Inprefe, nee to the ftraight and fliorter road fromChanefton to the Cherokee country by f';rt Ninety3ix, becaufe by keeping near this great river, 1 hadfjequent opportunities of vifuing its deep banks,vaft fwamps and low grounds ; and had the advantage,withou: great delay, or deviating from themain high road, of obferving the various foils andfituations of the countries through which this farnousriver purfues its courfe, and of examining theirvarious produftions, mineral, vegetable and animalwhereas had 1 purfued the great trading path byNinety -Six, I fliould have been led over a high, dry,fandy and gi'aveily ridge, and a great part of thediftance an old fettled or reforted part of the country,arrd confequently void of the varieties of originalor novel produdlions of nature.Before I leave Augufba, I fliall recite a curiousphenomenon, which may furnifh ample matter for* A few years after the above remark, the feat of government waijremoved from Savanna to Augulta.pliilofophical

3l6 TRAVELS INphilofophical difcufrion to the curious naturaliUs,On the Georgia fide of the river, about fifteen milesbelow Silver Bluff, the high road crofles a ridge ofhigh fwelling hills of uncommon elevation, andperhaps fcvcnty feet higher than the furiace of theriver. Thefe hills, from three feet below the commonvegetative furface, to the depth of twenty orthirty (tctj are compofed entirely of foffil oyilerfhells, internajly of the colour and confiftency ofclear white marble ; the fhells are of incrediblemagnitude, generally fifteen or twenty inches inlength, from fix to eight wide, and two to four inthicknefs, and their hollows fufficient to receive anordinary man's foot: they appear all to have beenopened before the period of petrifadtion, a tranfmutationthey feem evidently to have fuffered ; theyare undoubtedly very ancient or perhaps antideluvian.The adjacent inhabitants burn them to limefor building, for which purpofe they ferve verywell ; and vv ould undoubtedly afford an excellentmanure when their lands require it, thefe hills beingnow remarkably fertile. The heaps of fhells lieupon a ftratum of a yellowiili findy mould, of feveralfeet in depth, upon a foundation of foftwhiterocks, that has the outward appearance of free- ilone,but on ilritl examination is really a teftaceous concreteor compofition of fand and pulverifed feafhells : in Ihort^^ this teftaceous rock approachesnear in quality and appearance to the Bahama orBermudian white rock.Thefe hills are Ihaded with glorious Magnoliagrandiflora, Morus rubra, Tilia, Quercus, Ulmus,Juglans, &c. with aromatic groves of fragcancCallicanthus Floridus, Rhododendron ferrugineum,Laurus Indica, &c, jEfculus pavia, Cornus Florida^

NORTH AMERICA.^I«rida. Azalea coccinea, Philadelphus inodorus andothers; but who would have expeded to lee theDirca palultris and Dodecathcon meadea grow inabundance in this hot climate ! it is true ttiey areleen in the rich and deep fliaded vales, betweenthe hills and North expoiure ; but they attain to adegree of magnitude and fplendour never ken laPenrifylvania.CHAP.

^iSTRAVELS mCHAP. II.After conferring with gentlemen in Aii.fruda",converflint in Indian affairs, concerni/g nny futuretravels in thofe diftant, unexplored regions, andobtaining letters to their agents in the Indian t;:rritories,I fct off, proceeding for Fort Jarnes Dartmouth,at the confluence of Broad River withSavanna, the road leading me near the banks of theriver for the diftance of near thiny miles, croffmgtwo or three of its confiderabie branches, befidesrivulets and fmaller brooks. The ilirface of theland uneven, by means of ridges or chains of fweJinghills and correfponding vales, v/ith level downs ;the foila loofe, grayifli-brown loamy mould on thehills, but darker and more cohefive and humid in thevales and downs ; this fuperficial, vegetative earth,covers a deep ffratum of very tenacious yellowifhclay : the downs afford grafs and various herbage ;the vales and hills, foreft trees and ffirubs of varioustribes, i. e. Quercus tin6loria, Q^alba, Q^ rubra,Q^lobata, Acer rubrum, A. Sacchurinum, A. glaucum,Morus rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus, Juglans hickory,various fpecies, Quercus phillos, Quer. dentata, f.hemifpherica, Quercus aquatica, or MarylandWater Oak, Ulmus fylvatica, Liriodendron, Liquid-amber,Diofpyros, Cornus Florida, Prunus Indica,Prunus padus and iEfculus pavia ; and, nearwater courfes in the vales, Stewartia malachodendron,llalefia, iEfculus fylvatica, Styrax, Carpinus,Magnolia acuminata, Mag. tripctala, Mag. auriculata,Azalea, &c. -»Therich humid lands in thevales bordering on creeks and bafes of the hills,likewife produce various^ trees, ilirubs and plants,as Cercis, Corylus, Ptelca, Evonim.us,Philadelphusinodorus.

;'NORTH /MER4CA.'^jnInodorus, Staphylea trifoliara, Chionahtnus, flamamclis,Callicarpa, Sambiicus, Cornus alba, Viburnumdentatum, Spirea opulifoli;i, Cornus fanguinea,Cephalanthus, &:c. and of herbacca^ a vailvariety and abundance, as Verbefina, Rudbeckia,Phafeolus, Tripfacum, Aconitum napellus, Delphinium,Angelica lucida, Tradefcantia, Trillium kf-Hie, Trillium ceinuum, Acl^a, Chelonc, Glycineapios, Convalliaria racemofa, Mediola, Carduus,Bidens frondola. Arum triphylUim, Corcopfis akcriiifolia,Circcca, C ommelina, A Her, Solidago, Eupatorium,Helianthus, and Silphium, together witha variety of other tribes and fpecies new to me.In the evening I arrived at Little river, and tookup my quarters at a public hcufe on its banks, nearits confluence Vv'ith the Savanna. This is a beautifulrapid v/ater, about fifty yards over. On a branchof this river is fituated the town of Wrij^htfbcrou^'^h.Near the ford, on the banks of this river, I firftobferved a very curious fnrub, a beautiful evergreen,which appears to be allied to the Rhodo^dendron, though the feed veffels feem to bear morethe charaderifiiics of the Kalm.ia. This fhrub growsin copfes or little groves, in open, high ficuations,where trees of laro-e erowth are but fcatterincrlvpiantea ; many fimple ftems arife together from aroot or fource erect, four, five and i^x feet hightheir limbs or branches, v/hich are produced towardsthe top of the Hems, alfo {land nearly erecl,lightly diverging from the main fuems, which arefvirniflied with moderately large ovate pointed intire^leaves, of a pale or yeUowifh green colourthele leaves are of a firm, compaft texture, bcthfurfaces fmooth and fhining, and fland nearly ereclupoa

320 TRAVELS ^Nupon (hoTt petioles ; the b'-anches terminate "ivithlong, loofe panicles or fpikes of white flowers,xyhofe fegments are five, long and narrow.I arofe early next morning and continued myjournev for Fort James. This day's prcgrefs wasagreeably entertaining, from the novelty and varietyof obj'.'6ls and views : the wild country now almofldepopulated, vaft forefts, expanfive plains anddetached groves ; then chains of hills wliofe gravelly,dry, barren fummits prefent detached piles ofrocks, which delude and flatter the hopes and expe6larionscf the ibiitary traveller, full fure ofhofpitable habitations ; heaps of white, gnawecjbones of the ancient buffalo, elk and deer, indifcrim.inatelymixed wirh thofe of men, l:alf grownever with mofs, altogether, exhibit fcenes of uncultivatednature, on iefle6i:ion, perhaps, ratherdifagreeable to a m.ind of delicare tcelings and fenfibility,fince feme of thefe cbjefts recognize pafttranfa6lions and events, perhaps not altogether reconcileableto juftice and humanity.Hew harmonious and fweetly murmur the purlingrills and fleeting brooks, roving along theihadowy vales, pafTing through dark, fubterraneancaverns, or dafning over fteep rocky precipices,their cold, humid banks condenling the volatile vapours,which falling coalefce in cryflalline drops, onthe leaves and elallic twi2;s of the aromatic fhrubsand incarnate flowers ! In thefe cool, fequellered,rocky vales, we behold die following celebratedbeauties of the hills, fragrant Calycanthus, blufliingRhododendron ferrugineum, delicate Philadeiphusinodoius, which difplays the white wavymantle, with the Iky robed Dephinium, perfumed8 Convallarii

andK'ORtH America* 321Cohvallarla and fiery Azalea, flaming on the afcendinghills or wavy fiirface of the gliding brooks.The epithet fiery, I annex to this moft celebratedfpecies of Azalea, as being expreffive of the appearanceof its flowers, which are in general of the colourof the fineft red lead, orange and bright gold,as well as yellow and cream colour j thefe variousfplendid colours are not only in feparate plants, butfrequently all the varieties and fhades are (hen infeparate branches on the fame plant -, the cluftersof the bloffom.s cover the fhrubs in fuch incredibleprofufion on the hill fides, that fuddenly openingto view from dark Ihades, we are alarmed withthe apprehenfion of the hill being let on fire. Thisis certainly the moft gay and brilliant floweringfhrub yet knov/n : it grov/s in little copfes orclumps, in open forefts as well as dark groves, widiother fhrubs, and about the bafes of hills, efpeciallywhere brooks and rivulets wind about them : thebuflies feldom rife above fix or feven feet in height,and generally but three, four and five, but branchand Ipread their tops greatly ; the young leaves arebut very fmall whilfl: the flirubs are in bloom, fromwhich circumftance the plant exhibits a greaterfliow of fplendour.Towards evening I crofl!ed Broad river at a goodford, juft above its confluence with the Savanna,and arrived at Fort James, which is a four fquareftockade, with faliant baft:ions at each angle, mountedwith a block-houfe, where are fome fwivel guns,one fl:ory higher than the curtains, which are piercedwith loop-holes, breafl high, and defended byfmall arms. The fortification enclofes about anacre of ground, where is the governor's or commandant'shoufe, a good building, which is flanked oneach fide by buildings for the officers and barracksYfoi

32,2 TRAVELS INfor the garriron, confifting of fifty ranges, includingofficers, each having a good horfe well- eqnipt, arifle, two dragoon piftols, and a hanger, befides apowder horn, ihot pouch and tomahawk. The fortftands on an eminence in the forks between the Savannaand Broad rivers, about one mile above FortChailotta, which is fituated near the banks of theSavanna, on the Carolina fide. Fort James is fituatednearly at an equal diftance from the banks ofthe two rivers, and from the extreme point of theland that feparates them. The point or peninfulabetween the two rivers, for the diftance of twomiles back from the fort, is laid out for a town, bythe name of Dartmouth, in honour to the earl ofDartmouth, who, by his interefb and influence inthe Britifh councils, obtained from the king a grantand powers in favour of the Indian trading companyof Georgia, to treat with the Creeks for the ceflioncf a quantity of land fufficient to difcharge theirdebts to the traders, for the fecurity and defence ofwhich territory this fortrefs was eftabliflied.This territory, called the New Purchafe, containsabout two millions of acres, lying upon thehead of Great Ogechee, between the banks of theSavanna and Alatamaha, touching on the Ocone,and taking within its precinfts all the waters ofBroad and Little rivers; comprehending a body ofexcellent and fertile land, well watered by innumerablerivers, creeks and brooks.I made a little excurfion up the Savanna river,four or five miles above the fort, with the furgeonof the garrifon, who was {o polite as to attend mcto fhow me fome remarkable Indian monuments,which are worthy of every traveller's notice. Thefe"^'ondcrful labours of the ancients fland in a level2 plain.

NORTH AMERICA.^2^plain, very near the bank of the river, now twentyor thirty yards from it. They confift of conicalmounts of earth and four fquare terraces, Sic. Th.egreat mount is in the form of a cone, about fortyot. fifty ieet high, and the circumference o( its bafetwo or three hundred yards, entirely compoled ofthe loamy rich earth of the low grounds : the topor apex is fiat: a fpiral path or track leading fromthe ground up to the top is ftill vifible, where novvgrows a large, beautiful fpreading Red Cedar (JuniperusAmericana) : there appear four niches, excavatedout of the fides of this hill, at difteientlieights from the bafe, fronting the four cardinalpoints; thefe niches or fentry boxes are entered intofrom the winding path, and feem to have beenmeant for refting places or look-outs. The circilmiacenilevel grounds are cleared and planted witJiIndian Corn at prelent; and I think the proprietorof thefe lands who accompanied us to this place,faid that the mount itfelf yielded above one hundredbufhela in one feafon: the land hereabouts isindeed exceeding fertile and produflive.It isaltogether unknown to us, what could haveinduced the Indians to raife fuch aheap of earth inthis place, the ground for a great fpace around beingfubjeft to inundations, at lead once a year,from which circumftance we may conclude theyhad no town or fettled habitations here. Some imaginethefe tumuli were conftru6led for look-outtowers. It is reafonable to fuppofe, however, thatthey were to ferve fome importaftt purpofe in thofedays, as they were public works, and would haverequired the united labour and attention of a wholenation, circumftanced as they were, to have con-H;ru(fted one of them almoft in an age. There arey afeveral

324 TRAVELS rjffeveral lefs ones round about the great one, witfxfonne very large tetragon terraces on each fide, neatone hundred yards in length, and their furfacefour, fix, eight and ten feet above the ground onwhich they ftand.We may however hazard a conjedure j that asxhere is generally a narrow fpace or ridge in thefelow lands, immediately bordering on the river'sbank, which is eight or ten feet higher than the adjoininglow grounds, that lie betwixt the ftream andthe heights of the adjacent main land, which, whenthe river overflows its banks, are many feet underwater, when, at the fame time, this ridge on theriver bank is above water and dry^ and at fuch inundationsappears as an ifland in the river ; thefepeople might have had a town on this ridge, andthis mount railed for a retreat and refuge in cafe ofinundations, which are unforefeen and furprife themvery fuddenly, fpring and autumn.Having finifhed my colle(51:ionsand obfervations,which were extended to a confiderable diftance inthe environs of Dartmouth; May loth fat off a-gain, proceeding for Keowe ; rode fix or eightmiles up the river above the fort ; crofTed over intoCarolina and foon got into the high road; but hadnot proceeded far, when I was furprifed by a fuddenvery heavy fhower of rain, attended with terrificthunder, but luckily found prefent llielter at a farmhoufe,where I continued above an hour beforeits fury abated ; when I proceeded again, and notwithftandingthis detention and obftacles in confequenceof the heavy rains in raifing the creeks, travelledthirty-five miles, and arrived in the eveningat Mr. Cameron's, deputy-commiiHiry for Indianaffairs for the Cherokee nation, to whom I was re-3 commended

NORTH AMERICA.32^commended by letters from the honourable JohnStewart, fuptrrintendant, refiding at Charlellon,mentioning my bufinefs in the Cherokee country.The road this day had led me over an unevencountry, its furface undulat^ed hy ridges or chainsof hills, fometimes rough with rocks and ftones,yet generally produftive of foreils, with a varietyof vegetables of inferior growth, i. e. Quercus, variousfpecies, Juglans hickory, varieties, Liriodendron,Fraxinus, Fagus fylvatica, Fagus caftanea,Fagus pumila, f. Chinkapin, Nyfla Sylvatica, Acerrubrum, jEfculus fylvatica, Magnolia acuminata.Magnolia tripetela, Andromeda arborea, Hopeadnftoria, iEfculuspavia, Viburnum, Azalea flammea;and other fpecies jHydrangea, Calycanthus, &c.The feafon being uncommonly wet, almoU dailyihowers of rain, frequently attended widi tremendousthunder, rendered travelling difagrecable,toilfome and hazardous, through an uninhabitedwildernefs, abounding with rivers and brooks. 1was prevailed upon by Mr. Cameron to ftav athis houfe a few days, until the rains ceafcd and therivers could be more cafily forded.The Angelica lucida or nondo grows here in a-bundance : its aromatic carminative root is in taftemuch like that oi'the Ginfeng (Panax) though moreof the tafte and fcent of Anife-feed : it is in highdlimation with the Indians as well as white inhabitants,and fells at a great price to the SouthernIndians of Florida, who dwell near the fea coaftwhere this never grows fpontancoufly. I obferveda charming fpecies of Malva, having panicles oflarge fplendid purple or deep blue flov/ers; andanother fpecies of Malva, very fingujar indeed, forYTiit

3e6TRAVELS IN"it is a climber; the leaves are broad, which, withthe whole plant, are lioary ; the flowers are veryfmall, and of a greenifh white. Here grows alfo inabundance a beautiful fpecies of Delphinium ; theflowers differ in no refpeft from thofe of the commonbranching Larkfpur of the gardens ; they areof a fine deep blue colour, and difpofed in longfparfed fpikes ; the leaves are compound, almoftJinear, but the fegments not fo fine cut as thofe ofthe garden Larkfpur.The weather now fettled and fair, I preparedto proceed for fort Prince George Keowe, havingobtained of the agreeable and liberal Mr. Cameron,ample teflimonials and letters of recommendationto the traders in the nation : this gentlemanalfo very obligingly fent a young Negro Qave toafliit and pilot me as far as Sinica.May i5Lh I left Lough-abber, the feat of Mr.Cameron. In the courfe of this day's journey Icrofled feveral rivers and brooks, all branches of theSavanna, now called Keowe, above its confluencewith the Tugilo, the Weft main branch. The faceof I he country uneven, by means of ridges of hillsand water courfes ; the hills fomewhat rocky nearthtir lummits and at the banks of rivers and creeks,but very fertile, as there is a good depth of a loofedark and moft vegetative mould, on a ftratum ofreddifh brown tenacious clay, and fometimes a deepftratum of dufky brown marl. The vegetable prodi.i

andtheNORTH AMERICA. 327conrpicuoufly beautiful flowering fhrub, grows tothe height of five or fix feet; many divergent crookedftems arife together from a root or fource, whichdividing their branches, wreath about every way,after a very irregular and free order -, exteriorfijbdivifions of thefe limbs terminate with a heavyduller or thyrfis of rofe or pink coloured flowers,fpeckled or variegated with crimfon, larger, moreexpanfive and regular in their fDrmation than thofeof the Pavia -, thefe heavy fpikes of flowers,charged with the morning dews, bend the flenderflexile fl:ems to the ground : the compound leavesare of the configuration of thofe of the Pavia, butbroader^ and their veins more prominent. TheIhrubs growing about the tops of the more barrengrafliy hills, where largetrees are few and fcattered,fhew themfelves to great advantage, and make afine appearance.There are abundance of Grape vines (Vitis vinifera)which ramble and fpread themfelves overthe fhrubs and low trees in thefe fituations, and Iwas afl[ured produced fruit affording an excellentjuice : the grapes are of various colours when ripe,of the figure and about the fize of the Europeanwine grapes. Arrived at Sinica in the evening, aftertravelling forty-five miles through an uninhabitedwildernefs.The Cherokee town of Sinica is a very refpefbablefetdement, fituated on the Eafl Bank of theKeowe river, though the greateft number of Indianhabitations are on the oppofite fhore, where likewifefl:ands the council-houfe, in a level plain, betwixtthe river and the range of beautiful lofty hills,which rife magnificently, and feem to bend overthe green plains and the river :y 4but the chief's houle,with

328 TRAVELS INwith thofe of the traders, and fome Indian dwellings,are feated on the afcent of the heights on the oppofitefhore. This fituation in point of profpe

!NORTH AMERICA.^20The evening ftill and calm, all filent and peaceable,a vivifying gentle breeze continually waftedfrom the fragrant llrawberry fields, and aromaticCalycanthean groves on the furrounding heights jthe wary moor fowl thundering in the diftant echoinghills : how the groves and hills ring with theihrill perpetual voice of the whip-poor-willAbandoned as my fituation now was, yet thankheaven many objefts met together at thistime, andconfpired to conciliate, and in fome degree compofemy mind, heretofore fomewhat dejedled andunharmonized : all alone in a wild Indian country,a thoufand miles from my native land, and a vaftdiftance from any fettle ments of white people. Ittrue, here were fome of my own colour, yet theyand though friendly and hofpitable,iswere {Grangers jtheir manners and culloms of living fo differentfrom what I had been accuftomed to, adminifteredbut little to my confolation : fome hundred milesyet to travel j the favage vindi

330 TRAVELS llimiles down to Sinica, and in width one and twomiles. This fertile vale within the remembrance offome old traders with whom I converfed, was onecontinued fettlement ; the fwelling fides of the adjoininghills were then covered with habitations,and the rich level grounds beneath lying on the river,was cultivated and planted, which now exhibita very different fpeftacle, humiliating indeed tothe prefent generation, the pofterity and feeble remainsof the once potent and renowned Cherokees :the veftiges of the ancient Indian dwellings are yetvifible on the feet of the hills bordering and frontingon the vale, fuch as pofls or pillars of their ha-'bitations,&c.There are feveral Indianmounts or tamuli, andterraces, monuments of the ancients, at the old fiteof Keowe, near the fort Prince George, but no Indianhabitations at prefent ; and here are feveraldwellings inhabited by white people concerned inthe Indian trade : Mr. D. Homes is the principaltraderhere.The old fort Prince George now bears' no marksq( a fortrefs, but ferves for a, trading houfe.CHA?,

NORTH AMERICA,J^lCHAP. III.I waited two or three days at this poft, expeftlngthe return of an Indian who was out hunting. Thisman was recoinmendcd to me as a fuitable perfonfor a proteftor and guide to the Indian fettlementsover the hills ; but upon information that he wouldnot be in fhortly, and there being no other perfonfuitable for dir purpot'e, rather than be detained,and perhaps thereby ffjftrated in my purpofes, Idetermined to fet off alone and run all rifl

3j'2travels inthe tumuli, terraces, pofts or pillars, old Peach andPlumb or chards, &c. fufficiently teflify. Thefevales and fwelling bafes of the lurrounding hills,afford vaft crops of excellent grafs and herbage fitfor pafturage and hay , of the latter, Plantago Virginica,Sanguiforba, Geum, Fragaria, &c. ThePanax quinquefolium, or Ginfeng, now appearsplentifully on the North expofure of the hill, growingout of the rich mellow humid eardi amongftthe ftones or fragments of rocks.Having croffed the vales, I began to afcend againthe more lofty ridges of hills, dien continued abouteight miles over more gentle pyramidal hills, narrowvales and lawns, the foil exceedingly fertile,producing lofty forefts and odoriferous groves ofCalycanthus, near the banks of rivers, with Halefia,Philadelphus inodorus, Rliododendron ferrugineum.Azalea, Stewartia montana,* fol. ovatis acuminatisferratis, flor.niveo, ftaminum corona fulgida, pericarp,pomum exfuccum, apice acuminato dehifcens,Cornus Florida, Styrax, all in full bloom, and de^corated with the following fweet roving climbers,Bignonia fempervirens. Big. crucigera, Lonicerafempervirens, Rofa paniculata, &c.Now at once the mount divide; and difclofe toview the ample Occonne vale, encircled by av/reath of uniform hills ; their fwelling bafes cladin cheerful verdure, over which, iffuing from betweenthe mountains, plays along a glittering river,meandering through the meadows. Crofllng thefeat the upper end of the vale, I began to afcend theOcconne mountain. On the foot of the hills are• This is a new fpecie? of Stevvartin, unknown to the European botanifts,and not mentioned in ;iny catalo^iues.ruins

NORTH AMERICA.JJJruins of the ancient Occonne town. The firfl ftepafter leaving the verdant beds of the hills, was avery high rocky chain of pointed hills^ extremelywell tinnbered with the following trees : Quercustincftoria, Qiierc. alba, Querc. rubra, Fraxinus excelfior,Juglans hickory various fpecies, Ulnnus,Tilia, Acer faccharinum, Morus, Juglans nigra,Juglans alba, Annona glabra, Robinia pfeudacacia.Magnolia acuminata, iEfculus fylvatica, with manymore, particularly a fpecies of Robinia new to me,tliough perhaps the iiime as figured and (lightlydefcribed by Catefby in his Nat. Hift. Carol. Thisbeautiful flowering tree grows twenty and thirty feethigh, with a crooked leaning trunks the branchesfpread greatly, and wreath about, fome almofltouching the ground ; however there appears afingular pleafmg wildnefs and freedom in its mannerof growths the (lender fubdivifions of thebranches terminate widi heavy compound paniclesof rofe or pink coloured fiov/ers, amidft a wreathof beautiful pinnated leaves.My next flight was up a very high peak, to thetop of the Occonne mountain, where 1 refted j andturning about, found that I was now in a very elevatedfituation, from whence I enjoyed a view inexprefTiblymagnificent and comprehenfive. Themountainous wildernefs which I had lately traverfed,down to the region of Augufla, appearingregularly undulated as the great ocean after atemped ; the undulations gradually deprefTing, yetperfe6lly regular, as the fquama of fiili, or imbricationsof tile on a roof: the nearell ground to meof a perfeft full green ; next more glaucous ; andlaftly almoft blue as the ether with Vi'hich themod

;JJ4TRAVELS INmoft diftant curve of" the horizon feemed to beblended.My imagination thus wholly engaged in the contemplationof this magnificent landfcape, infinitelyvaried, and without bound, I was almoft infenfibleor regardlefs of the charming objeds more withinmy reach: a new fpecies of Rhododendron foremoftin the aflembly of mountain beauties ; nextthe flaming Azalea, Kalmia latifolia, incarnateRobinia, fnowy mantled Philadelphus inodorus,perfumed Calycanthus, &C.This fpecies of Rhododendron grows fix or fevenfeet high j many nearly ereft ftems arife togetherfrom the root, forming a group or coppice. Theleaves are three or four inches in length, of anoblong figure, broadeft toward the extremity, andterminating with an obtufe point ; their upper furfaceof a deep green and polifhed ; but the netherfurface of a rufty iron colour, wliich feems to beefFe6le)d by innumerable minute reddifh veficles,beneath a fine fhort downy pubefcence ; the numerousflexile branches terminate with a loofefpiked raceme, or clufter of large deep rofe colouredflowers, each flower being affixed in thedififufed duller of a long peduncle, which, with thewhole plant, poffeiTes an agreeable perfijme.After being recovered of the fadgue and labourin aftending the mountain, I began again to profecutemy tafk, proceeding through a fhady foreftand foon after gained the molt elevated creft of theOcconne mountain, and then began to defcend theother fide ; the winding rough road carrying meover rocky hills and levels, flnaded by incomparableforefts, the foil exceedingly rich, and of an excellent

WORTH AMERICA.JJ^lent quality for the produftion of every vegetableiuited to the cliinate, and feeming peculiarly adaptedfor the cultivation of Vines (Vitis vinifera),Olives (Olea Europea), the Almond tree (Amygdaluscommunis), Fig (Ficus carica), and perhapsthe Pomegranate, (Punica granatum), as well asPeaches (Amyg. Perfica), Prunus, Pyrus, of everyvariety. I pafTed again deep rocky afcents, andthen rich levels, where grew many trees and plantscommon in Pennfylvania, New-York and evenCanada, as Pinus flrobus, Pin. fylveftris, Pin. abies,Acer faccharinum, Acer ftriatum, f. Pennfylvanicum,Populus tremula, Betula nigra, Juglans alba,&c. ; but what feems remarkable, the yellow Jeflamine(Bignonia fempervirens), which is killed bya very flight froft in the open air in Pennfylvania,here, on the fummits of the Cherokee mountainsafTociates with the Canadian vegetables, and appearsroving with them in perfe6t bloom and gaiety;as likewife Halefia diptera, and Hal. tetraptera,mountain Stewartia, Styrax, Ptelea, i^fculus pavia;but all thefe bear our hardeft frofts in Pennfylvania.Now I enter a charming narrow vale, throughwhich flows a rapid large creek, on whofe banksarc happily aflTociated the llirubs already recited,together with the following; Staphyla^a, EuoniinusAmericana, Hamamelis, Azalea, various fpecies,Arifliolochia frutefeens, f. odoratifiima, whichrambles over the trees and flirubs on the prolificbanks of thefe mountain brooks. PafTed throughmagnificent high forefts, and then came upon theborders of an ample meadow on the left,, embroi--dered by the fliade of a high circular amphitheatreof hills, the circular ridges riflng magnificently oneover the other. On the green turfy baies of theleafcents appear the ruins of a town of the ancients.I'iie

33^traVelS iNThe upper end of this fpacious green plain is dividedby a promontory or fpur of the ridges beforeme, which projeds into it: my road led melip into an opening of the afcents through whichthe ghttering brook which watered the meadowsran rapidly down, dafning and roaring ever highrocky fteps. Continued ye£ afcending until Igained the top of an eleva^d rocky ridge, whenappeared before me a gap or opening betweenother yet more lofty afcents, through which continuedas the rough rocky road led me, clofe bythe winding banks of alarge rapid brook, v/hich atlength turning to the left, pouring down rocky precipices,glided off through dark groves and highforefts, conveying ftreams of fertiUty and pleafureto the fields below.The furface of the land now for three or fourmiles is level, yet uneven, occafioned by naturalmounds or rocky knobs, but covered with a goodftaple of rich earth, which affords forefts of timbertrees and fhrubs. After this, gently defcendingagain, I travelled fome miles over a varied fituationof ground, exhibiting views of grand forefts, darkdetached groves, vales and meadows, as heretofore,and producing the like vegetable and other worksof nature ; the meadows affording exuberant pafturagefor catde, and the bafes of the encirchnghills, flowering plants, and fruitful ftrawberry beds :obferved frequently ruinsof the habitations or villagesof the ancients. CrolTed a delightful river,the main branch of Tugilo, when I began to afcendagain, firft over fwelling turfy ridges, varied withgroves of ftately foreft trees ; then afcending againmore fteep grafTy hill fides, refted on the top ofmount Magnolia, which appeared to me to be thehigheft ridge of the Cherokee mountains, whichfeparate

thenceNORTH AMERICA.^ jjfeparate the waters of Savanna river from thofe ofthe Tanafe or greater main branch of the Cherokeeriver. This running rapidly a North-Weft coiirfcthrough the mountains, is joined from the Noith-Eaft by the Holftcin -, taking a Weft courfeyet amongft the mountain^., receiving into it from!either hand many large rivers, leaves the mountainsimmediately after being joined by a large riverfrom the Eaft, becomes a mighty liver by thename ot Hogehege, thence meanders many hundredmiles through a vaft country confifting offorefts, meadows, groves, expanfivc favannas, fieldsand fwelling hills, moft fertile and delightful, flowsinto the beautiful Ohio, and in conjunction with itstranfparent waters, becomes tributary to the fovereignMiftifippi.This exalted peak 1 named mount Magnolia,from a new and beautiful fpecies of that celebratedfamily of flowering trees, which here, at the cafcadesof Falling Creek, grows in a high degree ofperfection: I had, indeed, noticed this curious treeieveral times before, particularly on the high ridgesbetwixt Sinica and Keowe, and on afcending thefirft mountain after leaving Keowe, v/hen I obfervedit in flower, but here it flourifties and commandsour attention.This tree, * or perhaps rather lllrub, rifes eighteento thirty feet in height ; there are uraallymany ftems from a root or fource, which lean alittle, or flightly diverge from each other, in thisrefpeft imitaiing the Magnolia tripetalaj thecrooked wreathing branches arifmg and fubdividingfrom the main ftem' without order or uniformity,f Magnolia auiicuLita.Ztheir

33^ TRAVELS INtheir extremities turn upwards, producing a verylarge rofaceous, perfeftly white, double or polypctalousflower, which is of a moft fragrant fcent; thisfineflower fi:s in the centre of a radius of very largeleaves, which are of a Angular figure, fotr.ewhatlanceolate, but broad towards their extremities, terminatedwith an acuminated point, and backwardsthey attenuate and become very narrow towardstheir bafes, terminating that way with two longnarrow ears or lappets, one on each fide of the infertionof the petiole; the leaves have only fhortfootftalks, fitting very near each other, at the extremitiesof the fioriferous branches, from whencethey fpread themfelves after a regular order, likethe fpokes of a v.heel, their margins touching orlightly lapping upon each other, form an expanfiveumbrella fuperbly crowned or crefted with thefragrant flower, reprefenting a v>?hite plume ; thebloifom is fucceeded by a very large crimfon coneor fl:robile, containing a great number of fcarletberries, which, when ripe, fpring from their cells,and are for a time fufpended by a white filky v/ebor thread. The leaves of thofe trees whicli growin a rich, light humid foil, when fully expandedand at maturitVj are frequently above two feet inienpth, and fix or eig-ht inches where broadeft. Idifcovered in the maritime parts of Georgia, particularlyon the banks of the Alatamaha, anothernew fpecies of Magnolia, whofe leaves were, nearlyof the figure of thofe of this tree, but they weremuch lefs in fize, not more than fix or feven inchssin length, and the ftrobile very fmall, obiong, fliarppointed, and of a fine deep crimfon colour; but Inever faw the flower. Thefe trees grow fliraight andereft, thirty feet or more in height, and of a fliarpconical form much refembling the Cucumber tree(Mi^g. acuminata) in figure.The

NORTH AMERICA,3J^The day being remarkably warm and fulrry,together with the labour and ftigue of afcendingthe mountains, made me very thirfty and in fomedegree funk my fpirits. Now paft mid-day, Ifought a cool fliaded retreat, where was water forrefrelhment and grazing for my horfe, my faithfulflave and only companion. After proceeding alittle farther, defcending the other fide of the mountain,I perceived at fome didance before me, onmy right hand, a level plain fupporting a grandhigh forefl: and groves : the nearer I approached, myfteps were the more accelerated from the flatteringprofpe(5l opening to view.I now entered upon theverge of the dark foreft, charming folitude ! as Iadvanced through the animatin'j; fnades, obfervedon the farther grafly verge a fnady grove ; thitherI directed my fleps. On approaching thefe fhades,between the ftately columns of the fuperb forefttrees, prefented to view, rufliing f om rocky precipicesunder the fliade of the penfile hills, the unparalleledcafcade of Falling Creek, rolling andleaping off the rocks : the waters uniting below,fpread a broad glittering ibeet over a vafc convexelevation of plain fmooth rocks, and are immediatelyreceived by a fpacious bafon, where tremblingin the centre through hurry and agitation, theygently fubfide, encircling the painted ftill Verge;from whence gliding fwittly, they fcon form a delightfullittle river, which continuing to flow moremoderately, is reflirained for a moment, gently undulatingin a little lake : they then pafs on rapidlyto a high perpendicular fteep of rocks, from whencethefe delightful waters are hurried down with irrefifliiblerapidity. I here feated myfelf on the mofscladrocks, under the fhade of fpreading "rees andfioriferous fragrant Ihrubs, in full view of the caitcades,Z 2At

:34-0 TRAVELS IN"At this rural retirement were afiembled a charmingcircle of mountain vegetable beauties ; Magnoliaauriculata, Rhododendron ferrngineum, Kalmialatifoha, Robinia montana, Azalea flammula,Rofa paniculata, Calycanthus Floridus, Philadelphus.inodorus, perfumed Convalaria majalis. Anemonethalifflroidcs, Anemone hepadca, Erythronium maculatum,Leontice thaliftroides, Trillium feffile,Trillium cefnum, Cypripediiim, Arethufa, Ophrys,Sanguinaria, Viola uvularia, Epigca, Mitchella repens,Stewartia, Halefia, Styrax, Lonicera, &c.Some of thefe roving beauties ftroll over them.ofiy, fhelving, humid rocks, or from off the expanfivewavy boughs of trees, bending over theHoods, faiute their delufive fliade, playing on thefurface ; fome plunge their pcrfum.ed heads andbathe their flexile limbs in the filver ftream ; whilftothers by the mountain breezes are tolTed about,their blooming tufts befpangled with pearly andchryftaline dew-drops collefted from the fallingmifts, glifirening in the rainbow arch. Havingcollected fome valuable fpecimens at this friendlyretreat, I continued my lonefome pilgrimage. Myroad for a confiderable time led m.e winding; andturning about the fteep rocky hills j the defcent offome of which were very rough and troublefome, bymeans of fragments of rocks, jlippery clay and talc•but after this 1 entered a fpacious foreil, the landhaving gradually acquired a more level furface : apretty graffy vale appears on my right, throughwhich my wandering path led me, clofe by the. banks of a delightful creek, which fometimes fall-- ing over fteps of rocks, glides gently with ferpen--tine meanders through the meadows.sAfter crofTing this delightful brook and mead,the Und rifes again with iliblime magnificence, andI am

:NORTH AMERICA.34Ir am led over hills and vales, groves and highforefts, vocal widi die melody of- the featheredfongftcrs; the fnow-white cafcades glittering onthe fides of the diftanc W\IU.It was now afternoon ; I approached a charmingvale, amidft fubiimely high forefts, awful ftiades !Darknefs gathers around ; far diftant thunder rollsover the trembling iiills : the black clouds withauguft majefty and power, move flowly forv/ards,fiiading regions of towering hills, and threateningall the deilruftion of a thunder ftorm : all aroundis now ftill as death ; not a whifper is heard, but atotal inaclivity and filcnce feem to pervade theearth ; the birds afraid to utter a chirrup, inlow tremulous voices take leave of each other,feeking covert and lafety : every infe6t is filenced,and nothing heard but the roaring of the approachinghurricane. The mighty cloud now expands itsfable wings, extending from North to South, andis drive/1 irrcfnlibly on by the tumultuous winds,Ipreading its livid wings around the gloomy concave,armed with terrors of thunder and fiery fhaftsof lightning. Now the lofty forefts bend low beneathits fury; their limbs and wavy boughs aretoffed about and catch hold of each other ; themountains tremble and feem to reel ab ait, andthe ancient hills to be fhaken to their foundationsthe furious ftorm fweeps along, fmoaking throughthe vale and over the refounding hills : the faceof the earth is obfcured by the deluge defcendingfrom the firmament, and 1 am deafened by the dinof the thunder. The tempeftuous fcene damps myfpirits, and my horfe finks under me at the tremendouspeals, as I haften on for the plain.The ftorm abating, I faw an Indian huntingZ 3cabii)

^1TRAVELS INcabin on the fide of a hill, a very agreeable profpc6i,efpecially in my prefent condition ; I madeup to it and took quiet poiTefTion, there being noone to difpnte it with me except a few bats andwhip-pocr- wills, who had repaired thither for ihelterfrom die violence of the hurricane.Having turned out my horfe in the fweet meadowsadjoining, and found forae dry wood underihelter of the old cabin, I ftruck up afire, dried myclothes, and comforted myfelf with a frugal repallof bifcuit and dried beef, Vv-hich was all the food myviaticum afforded me by this time, excepting afmall piece of cheefe which I had furnifhed myfelfv/ith at Charleilon, and kept till this time.The night was clear, calm and cool, and I refledquietly. Next morning at day-break I vias awakenedand fummoned to refume m.y daily tafk, bythe fhriil cries of the facial night hawk and activemerry mock- bird. By the time the rifing fun hadgilded the tops of the towering hills, the mountainsand vales rang with the harmoni(.us flipuLs ofthe pious and cheerful tenants of the groves andmeads.I obferved growing in great abundance in thefemountain meadows, Sanguiibrba Canadenfis andHeracleum maximium ; the latter exhibiting a fineftiow, being rendc^red confpicuous even at a greatdift.ince, by its great ntight and fpread, vaft pennatifidleaves and expanfivc umbels of fnow-whiteflowers. The fweilir.g bafes of the furroundinghills fronting the iTieaCtows prefented for my accept^ptethe fragrant red ftrawberry, in paintedbed^'of many acres furface, indeed I may fafely fay,many hundreds.After

;NORTH AMERICA. 343After pa/Tmg through this meadow, tlie road ledme over the bafes of a ridge of hills, wnich as a boldpromontory dividing the fields I had juft pafTcd,form expanfive green lawns. On thefc toweringhills appeared the ruins of the ancient famous townof Sticoe. Plere was a vaft Indian mount or tumulusand great terrace, on which flood the council-houfe,with banks cncompafling their circushere were alio old Ptach and Plumb orchardsfome of the trees appeared yet thriving and fruitful.Prefently after leaving thefe ruins, the vale andfields are divided by means of a fpur of the mountainspufliing forward : here likev/ife the road forked; the left-hand path continued up the mountainsto the Overhill towns : I followed the vale to theright hand, and loon began again to afcend the hills,riding feveral miles over very rough, ftony land,yielding the like vegetable produftions as heretofore;and defcending again gradually, by a dubiouswinding path, leading into a narrow vale and lawn,through which roiled on before me a delightfulbrook, water of the Tanafe. I crofled it and continueda mile or tv/o down the meadows ; whenthe high mountains on each fide fuddenly receding,difcovered the opening of the extenfive and fruitfulvale of Cowe, through which meanders the headbranch of the Tanafe, almoft from its fource, fixtymiles, following its courfe down to Cowe.I left for a little while, the dream palling fwiftlyand foaming over its rocky bed, lafning the fteepcraggy banks, and then fuddenly funk from myfight, murmuring hollow and deep under the rockyfurface of the ground. On my right hand the valeexpands, receiving a pretty filvcry brook of waterZ 4which

34-4 TRAVELS INwhich came haftily down from the adjacent hills,and entered the river a little diftance before me.I now turn from the heights on my left, the roadleading into the level lawns, to avoid the hollowrocky grounds, full of holes and cavities, archingover the river through which the waters are feengliding along : but the river is foon liberated fromthefe folirary and gloomy recefies, and appearswaving through the green plain before mje. I continuedfeveral miles, purfuing my ferpentine path,through and over the m.eadows and green fields,and crofling the river, which is here incredibly increafedin fize, by the continual acceffion of brooksflowing in from the hills on each fide, dividing theirgreen turfy btds, forming them into parterres, viftas,and verdant fwelling knolls, profufely produ6live ofHov/ers and fragrant flrawberries, their rich juicedying my horfes feet and ancles.Thefe fwelling hills, the prolific beds on whichthe towering mountains repofe, feem to have beenthe common fituations of the towns of the ancients,appears from the remaining ruins of them yet toasbe feen, and the level rich vale and meadows infront, their planting grounds.Continue yet ten or twelve miles down the vale,my road leading at limes clofe to the banks of theriver, the Azalea, Kalaiia, Rhododendron, Philadelphus,&c. beautifying his now elevated fhores, andpainting the coves with a rich and cheerful fcenery,continually unf Iding new pro{pe6ls as I traverfe theIhores : toweiing mountains feem continually in motionas I pafs along, pompouOy raifing their fiiperbcrefts towards the lofty fkies, traverfing the far diftanthorizon.The

;NORTH AMERICA.34^The Tanafc is now greatly increafed fiom theconflux of the multitude of rivulets and l>i-ot>ks,defcending from the hills on either fide, generoullycontributing to eftablifli his future fame, already afpacious rivtT.The mountains recede, the vale expands ; twobeautiful rivukts fiream down through lateral vales,gliding in ferpentine mazes over the green turfyknolls, and enter the Tanafe nearly oppofie to eachother. Straight forward the expanfivf green valefeems yet infinite : now on the right hand a lof:ypyramidal hill terminates a Ipur of the adjacentmountain, and advances almoft into the riverbut immediately after doubling this promontory,an expanded wirjg of the vale fpreads on my right,down which came precipitately a very beautifulcreek, which flowed into the river juft before me;but now behold, high upon the fide of a diftancmountain overlooking the vale, the fountain of thisbrifk-flowing creek ; the unparalleled waterfall appearsas a vail edifice with cryllal front, or a fieldof ice lying on the bofom of the hill.I now approach the river at the fording place,which was greatly fwollen by the floods of rain thatfell the day before, and ran with foaming rapidity ;but obferving that it had fallen feveral feet perpendicular,and perceiving the bottom or bed ofthe river to be level, and covered evenly with pebbles,I ventured to crof> over ; however I was obligedto fwim two or three yards at the deepeft channelof it, and landed fafcly on the banks of a finemeadow, which lay on the oppofite lliore, where Iimmediately alighted and fpread abroad on the turfmy linen, books, and fpecimens of plants, &c. to diy,turned out my fteedto graze, and then advanced into

34^TRAV£LS INto the ftrawberry plains to regale on the fragrant^delicious fruit, welcomed by communities of thefplendid meleagris, the capricious roe-buck, and allthe free and happy tribes, which pollefs and inhabitthole prolific fields, who ai)peared to invite, andjoined with me inthe participation of the bountifulrepaft prefented to us from the lap of nature.I mounted again, and followed the trading pathabout a quarter of a mile through the fields, thengently afcended the green beds of the hills, and e«-tered the forefts, being a point of a chain of hillsprojecting into the green vale or low lands of therivers. This foreft continued about a mile, thefurface of the land level but rough, being coveredwith Itones or fragments of rocks, and very large,fmooth pebbles of various Hiapes and fizes, fome often or fifteen pounds weight: I obferved on eachlide of the road many vaft heaps of thefe ftones,ladian graves undoubtedly *.After I left the graves, the ample vale foon offeredon my right hand, through the tall foreft trees,charming views, which exhibited a pleafing contraft,immediately out of the gloom.y (hades :ind fcenes ofdeath, into expanfivc, lucid, green, flowery fields,expanding between retiring hills, and tufty eminences,the rapid Tanafe gliding through,as, a vaftferpent rufhing after his prey.My winding path nov/ leads me again over thegreen fields into the meadows, Ibmecimcs vifiting* At tills phce was fought 3 bloody and dccifive b.-.ttlc between thefeIndians and the Caroruiiauf, under thccondudt of goucral Middleton,wheria great tuimber of Cherokee wnrriors were fiain, wliicli fliook theirpovvci, territied ,-.;k1 humbk-d them, info.-nuch that they deferted moft uftheir fettlements in tlie low countrsef, and betook thenifelves to the movmlaiasas lets acceillble to the regular forces of the white people.the

NORTH AMERICA.^^ythe decorated banks of the river, as it meandersthrough the meadows, or boldly fweeps along theb.iies oi the mountains, its furface receiving theimages reflciiled from the flowery banks above.Thus was m.y agreeable progrefs for about fifteenmiles, fmce 1 came upon tiie fources of theTanafe, at the head of thih, charnung vale : in theevening efpving a human habitation at the foot @fthe Hoping green hills, beneath lofty forefts of themountains on the left hand, and at the fame timeobferving a man croiring the river from the oppofitefhore in a canoe and coming towards me, I waitedhis approach, who hailing me, 1 anfwered I wasfor Cowe j he entreated me very civilly to call athis houfe, adding, that he would prefcntly come tome.I was received and entertained here until nextday with die moft perfect civility. After I liaddined, towards evening, a company of Indian gi;Is,inhabitants of a village in the hills at a fmali diftance,called, having bafl, excellent butter and cheef;, fat forwardsagain for Cowe, which was about fifceenmiles diftance,keeping the trading path which courfedthrough the low lands between the hills and theriver, now fpacious knd well beaten by travellers^Ibut

34^TRAVELS IMbut fomewhat intricate to a fcrangerj from the frequentcollateral roads falling into it from villagesor towns over the hills. After riding about fouriniks moftly through fields and plantations, thefoil incredibly fertile, arrived at the town of Echoc,confiding of many good houfes, well inhabited. Ipaifcd through, and continued three miles fartherro NucafTe, and tliree miles more brought me toWhatoga. Riding through this large town, theroad carried me winding about through their littleplantations of Corn, Beans, &c. up to the councilhoufe,which was a very large dome cr rotunda,fiaiated on the top of an ancient artificial mount,and here my road terminated. All before me andon every fide, appeared litde plantations of youngCorn, Beans, &c. divided from each ether by narrowflrips or borders of grafs, which marked thebounds of each one's property, their habitationftandino; in the midft. Findinc; no common highroad to lead me through the town, I was novv at aftand how to proceed farther j when obferving anIndian man at the door of his habitation, three orfour hundred yards diftance from me, beckoningme to come to him, I ventured to ride throughtheir lots, being careful to do no injury to theyoung plants, the rifing hopes of their labour andinduftry ; crofTed a little graffy vale watered bya filver flream, which gently undulated through ithen afcended a oreen hill to the houfe, where Iwas chearfully welcomed at the door, and led in bythe chief giving the care of my horfe to two handfomeyouths, Ins fons. During my continuancehere, about half im hour, I experienced the modperfed and agreeable hofpitality conferred on nvcby thefe happy people ; 1 mean happy in their difpofitions,in their apprehenfions of reftitude withregard

NORTH AMERICA.^^^rccrard to our focial or moral condufl. O divineninplicity and truth, friendfliip without fallacy orbeing feated on cabins, hisf^uile, hofpitality difintercfted, native, undefilcd,unmodifyed by artificial refinements !My venerable hoft gracefully and with an air ofrefpei5l, led mc into an airy, cool apartment ; wherewomen brought in a refrefliingrepail:, confiiting of foddcn venifon, hotcorn cakes, ike. with a pleafant cooling liquiir madeof hommony well boiled, mixed afterwards withmilk ; thisisferved up, either before or after eating,in a large bowl, with a very large ipoon or ladle toflip it with.After partaking of this fimple but healthy andliberal collation, and the diflies cleared off. Tobaccoand pipes w^ere brought; and the chief fillingone of them, whofe ftem, about four feet long, wasfheathed in a beautiful fpeckled fnake flvin, andadorned with feathers and firings of wampum, lightsit and finoaks a few whiffs, puffing the fmoak firfltowards the fun, then to the four cardinal points,and laflly over my breaft, hands it towards me,which I chearfuily received from him and fmoaked;when we fell into converfation. He firft enquiredcame from Charlefton? if I knew John Stewart,if IEfq how long fince I left Charleflon ? &c. Havingfatisficd him in my anfwers in the befl mannerI could, he was greatly pleafed; which I w^as convincedof by his attention to me, his cheerful manners,and his ordering my horfe a plentiful bait ofcorn, which laft inftance of refpect is conferred onthofe only to whom they manifeft the highefl efleem,iaylng that corn was given by the Great Spirit onlyfor food to man.I ac-

2^0TRAVELS INI acquainted thlz ancient prince and patriai-chwith the nature and dcfign of my peregrinations,and that I was now f; r ("owe, but having loft myroad in the town, requefted that 1 mi^ht be informed.He cheerful' y replied, tr.at he was pleafed1 was come in their country, where I fhouid meetwith friendfhip and protcfaon, and that he wouldhimfelf lead me into the light pach.After ordering my horf; to the door, we wentforth together, he on fo )t, and I leading my hoiTeby the bridle ; thus walking together near two miles,we (liook hands and parted, he returning home, andI continuing mv journey for Cov/e.This prince is the chief of Whatoga, a man univerfallybeloved, and particularly efteemed by thewhites for his pacific and equitable difpofition, andrevered by all tor his exemplary virtues, juft, moderate,magnanimous and intrepid.Fie was tall and peifl-clly formed; his countenancecheerful and lofty, and at the fam.e time trulycharafteriftic of the red m.en, that is, the browferocious, and the eye active, piercing or fiery, asan eagle. He appeared to be about fixty years ofage, yet upright and mufcular, and his limibs adliveas youth.After leaving my princely friend, I travelledabout five miles through old plantations, now undergraf:,,but which appeared to have been planted thelaft feafon ; the foil exceeding fertile, loofe, black,deep and fat. I arrived at Cowe about noon. Thisfettlement is efteemed the capital town : it is firuatedon the bafes of the hills on both fides of theriver, near to its bank, and here terminates the great*vale

NORTH AMERICA.-^ ; Ivale of Cowe, exhibiting one of the moil charmingnatural mountaneous landfcapes perhaps any wliercCO be feen ; ridges of hills rifing grand and fubiimelyone above and beyond another, ibme boldly andmajeftically advancing into the verdant plain, theirfeet bathed with the filver flood of the Tanafe,vvhilft others far diftant, veiled in blue mifts, fubiimelymounting aloft with yet greater majefty lifeup their pompous crefts, and overlook vaft regions.The vale is clofed at Cowe by a ridge of mightyhills, called the Jore mountain, faid to be the higheilland in the Cherokee country, which croffes theTanafe here.On my arrival at this town I waited on the gentlemento whom I was recommended by letter, andwas received with refpeft and every demonllrationof hofpitality and friendfhip.the recital)I took my refidence with Mr. Galahan thechief trader here, an ancient refpeftable man, whohad been many years a trader in this country, andis efteemed and beloved by the Indians for his humanity,probity, and equitable dealings vv^ith them;which, to be juft and candid I am obliged to obfervc(and blufli for my countrymen atis fomewhat of a prodigy ; as it is a fa6l, I amafraid too true, that tiie white traders in tlieir commercewith the Indians, give great and i.eqvient occafionsof complaint of their difhonefty and violence:but yet there are a few exceptions, as in theconduft of this gentleman, who furnifhes a livinginftance of the truth of the old proverb, that " Honellyis the bed policy ;" for this old honeft Hibernianhas often been protefted by the Indians, whenall

?52 TRAVELS INaii others round about him have been ruined, theirproperty fcized, and thcmfelves driven out of theCountry or flain by the injured, provoked natives.Next day after my arrival I crofied the river in acanoe, on a vifit to a trader who refided amoHgft thehabitations on the otiier fhore.After dinner, on his mentioning fome curiousicenes amongft the hills, fome miles diftance fromthe river, we agreed to fpend the afcernoon in obfervationson the mountains.After riding near two miles through Indian plantationsof Corn, which was v/ell cultivated, keptclean cf weeds, and was well advanced, being neareighteen inches in height, and the Beans planted atthe Corn- hills v/ere above ground j we left thefields on our right, turning towards the mountains,and afcending through a delightful green vale orJawn, which conducted us in amongft the pyramidalhiils, and crolTing a brif"k flowing creek, meanderingthrough the meads, which continued neartwo miles, dividing and branching in amongft thehills. We then mounred their fteep afcents, rifinggradually by ridges or fteps on? above another, frequentlycrofling narrow fertile dales as we afcended: the air felt cool and anim.ating, being chargedwith the fragrant breath of the mountain beautics,the blooming mountain clufter Rofe, blufliingRhododendron, and fair Lily of the valley. Havingnow attained the fijmmit of this very elevatedridge, we enjoyed a fine profpe^l indeed ; the enchantingVale of Keowe, perhaps as celebratedfor icrdlity, fruitfulnefs and beautiful profpefts, asthe Fields of Pharfalia or tlje Vale of Tempe ; dietowij,, cne elevated pe.dvs of the Jore mountains, avery

;NORTH AMERICA.2S3Very diflant profpc6l cf the Jore village in a beautifullawn, lifted up many thoufund feet higher thanour prefent fituation,befides a view of many othervillages and fettlements on the fides of the mountains,at various diftances and elevations ; the filverrivulets gliding by them, and fnow white cataradlsglimmering on the fides of the lofty hills ; thebold promontories of the Jore mountain fteppinginto the Tanafe riverj tvhilft his foaming watersruihed between them.After viev/ing this very entertaining fcene, wcbegan to defcend the mountain on the other fide,which exhibited the flime order of gradations ofridges and vales as on our afcent ; and at lengthrefted on a very expanfive, fertile plain, amidft thetowering hills, over which we rode a long time,through magnificent high forefts, cxtenfive grfeenfields, meadows and lawns. Here had formerlybeen a very flourifiiing fetdement ; but the Indiansdeferted it in fearch of frefh planting land, whichthey foon found in a rich vale but a few miles diftan

;354 TRAVELS INufeful creatures, belonging to my friend and companion,the trader, on the fight cf vvhona they affembledtogether from all quarters ; fome at a diftancefaiuted him with fhriljneighings of gratitude,or came prancing up to lick the fait out of hishand, whilft the younger and more timorous camegalloping onward, but coyly wheeled off,and fetchinga circuit flood aloof; but as foon as their lordand mafter ftrewed die cryftaline falty bait on thehard beaten ground, they all, old and young, docileand timorous, foon form.ed themfelves in ranks, andfell to licking up the delicious morfel.It was a fine fight : more beatiful creatures Inever faw ; there were of them of all colours, fizesand difpofitions. Every year, as they becomeof age, he fends off a troop of them, down toCharlefton, where they are fold to the higheft bidder.Having paid our attention to this ufeful part ofthey are under our dominion,the creation, who, ifhave confequently a right to our protedlion and fa-\^our, v/e returned to our trufty fervants thatwere regaling themfelves in the exuberant fweetpailures and llrawberry fieldsin fight, and mountedagain. Proceeding on our return to town, continuedthrough part of this high foreft fkirting on them.eadows: began to afcend the hills of a ridge whichwe were under the neceffity of crofTing ; and havinggained its fummit, enjoyed a moft enchanting view'a vaft expanfe of green meadows and ftrawberryfields ; a meandering river gliding through, falutingin its various' turnings the fwelling, green, turfyknolls, embellillied with parterres of flowers andfruitful ftrawberry beds ; flocks of turkies ftroUingabout them i herds of deer prancing in the meadsorI

NORTH AMERICA.^rror bounding over the hills ; connpanies of youno-,innocent Cherokee virgins, fome buly gathcrinotherich fragrant fruit, others having already filledtheir bafkets, lay reclined under the fliade of floriferousand fragrant native bowers of Magnolia, A-zalea Philadelphus, perfumed Calycanthus, fvveecYellow JeiTIimine and cerulean Glycine frutefcens,difclofmg their beauties to the fluttering breeze,and bathing their limbs in the cool fleeting ftreams;whilfl other partiesi more gay and libertine, wereyet collecting fl.rawberries', or wantonly chafing theircompanions, tantalifing them, ftaining their lipsand cheeks with the rich fruit.The fylvan fcene of primitive innocence was enchanting,and perhaps too enticing for hearty youngmen long to condnue idle fpeftators.In fine, nature prevailing over reafon, we wifticdat leafl; to have a more adive part in their deliciousfports. Thus precipitately refolving, we cautiouflymade our approaches, yet undifcovered, almoftto the joyous fcene of action. Now, althoughwe meant no other than an innocent frolic with thisgay afl^embly of hamadryadcs, we fliail leave it tothe perfon of feeling and fenfibility to form an ideato what lengths our pafllons might have hurried us,thus warmed and excited, had it not been for thevigilance and care of fome envious m.atrons wholay in ambufli, and efpying us, gave the alarm, timeenough for the nymphs to rally and afiemble together.We however purfued and gained ground on agroup of them, who had incautioufly ftrolled to agreater diftance from their guardians, and findingtheir retreat now like to be cut off^, took (helterunder cover of a little grove j but on perceivingthemlelves to be difcovered by us, kept their fta-A a 2tioHp

35^ TRAVELS INtion, peeping through the buflies ; when obfervingour approaches, they confidently difcovered themfelves,and decently advanced to meet us, half unveilingtheir blooming faces, incarnated with themodell maiden blufh, and with native innocenceand cheerflilners, prefented their little bafls;ets, merrilytelling us their fruit was ripe and found.We accepted a bafket, fat down and regaled ourfelveson the delicious fruit, encircled by the wholeafTembly of the innocent jocofe fylvan nymphs:by this tim.e the feveral parties, under the conduftof the elder m.a>rons, had difpofed themfelves incompanies on the green, turfy banks.My young companion, the trader, by conceffionsand fuitable apologies for die bold intrufion, havingcompromifed the matter with them, engagedthem to bring their coUe&iuns to his houfe at a ftipulatedprice : we parted friendly.And now taking leave of thefe Elyfian fields, wcagain mounted the hills, which we crofled, andtraverfing obliquely their flowery beds, arrived intown in the cool of the evening.CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 357CHAP.IV.After waiting two days at Cowe expe6ling aguide and prote(flor to the Overhill towns, and atlaft being difappoinred, I refolved to piirfue thejourney alone, though againft the advice of thetraders j the Overhill Indians being in an ill humourwith the whites, in confequence of fome late fkirmiiliesbetween them and the frontier Virginians,mod of the Overhill traders having left the nation.Early in the morning I fat off attended by myworthy old friend Mr. Gallahan, who obligingly accompaniedme near fifteen miles. We paffed throughthe J ore village, which is pleafingly fituated in alittle vale on the fide of the mountain ; a pretty rivuletor creek winds about through the vale, juftunder the villao;e : here I obferved a little groveof the Cafine yapon, which was the only place whereI had fecn it grow in the Cherokee country ; the Indianscall it the beloved tree, and are very carefulto keep it pruned and cultivated: they drink avery ftrong infufion of the leaves, buds and tenderbranches of this plant, which is fo celebrated, indeedvenerated by the Creeks and all the Southernmaritime nations of Indians. We then continuedtravelling down the vale about two miles, the roaddeviating, turning and winding about the hills, andthrough groves in lawns, watered by brooks andrivulets, rapidly rufliing from the towering hill onA a 3every

^5STRAVELS INevery fide, and flowing into the Jorc, which is aconfiderable branch of the Tanafe.Began now to afcend the mountain, following afmal] arm or branch of the vale, which led to a gapor narrow defile, compreffed by the high pendinghills on each fide, down which came rapidly a confiderablebranch of the J ore, dalTiing and roaringover rocky precipices.Now leaving Roaring creek on our right, an4accomplifhing two or three afcents or ridges, anotherbranch of the trading path from the Overhillsto Cowe came in on our right, and here my tranfitorycompanion Mr. Galahan parted from me,taking this road back to Cowe ; when I was left a-gain wandering alonein the dreary mountains, notindeed totally pathlefs, nor in my prefent lituationentirely agreeable, although fuch fcenes of primitiveunmodified nature alv/ays pleafed me.May we fuppofe that mankind feel In their heartsa predileftion for the fociety of each other j or arewe delighted with fcenes of human arts and culti-rvation, where the paiTions are flattered and entertainedwith variety of objects for gratification ?I found myfelf unable, notwithflanding the atifentiveadmonitions and perfuafive arguments ofreafon, entirely to erafe from my mind thofe impreinonsv/hich I had received from the fociety ofthe amiable and polite inhabitants of Charleflon jand I could not help comparing my prefent fimationin fome degree to Nebuchadnezzar's, when expelledfrom the fociety of men, and conftrained to roamin the mountains and wildernefs, there to herd andfeed with the wild beafts of the forefls.After

;NORTH AMERICA.JSOAfter parting with my late companion, I wentforward with all the alacrity that prudence wouldadmit of, that I might as foon as pofTible fee theend of my toil and hazard, being determined atall events to crofs the Jore mountain, fiiid to be thehigheft land in the Cherokee country.After a gentle defcent, Ientered on an extremelyftony narrow vale, through v/hich coafted fwiftly alarge creek, twelve or fifteen yards wide, roaringover a rocky bed, which I croffed with difficultyand danger, the ford being incommoded by llielvingrocks, full of holes and cliffs. After leavingthis rocky creek, my path led me upon anothernarrow vale or glade, down which came in greathafte another noify brook, which I repeatedly croffedand recroffed, fometimes riding on narrow levelgrafly verges clofe to its banks ; Itill afcending, thevale gradually terminated, being fhut up by ftupendousrocky hills on each fide, leaving a verynarrow gap or defile, towards which my road ledme, afcending the fteep fides of the mountainswhen, after riling feveral wearifome afcents, andfinding myfelf over-heated and tired, I halted at alittle graffy lawn, through which meandered a fweetrivulet. Here I turned my horfe to graze, and fatdown to reft on a green bank juft beneath a highfrowning promontory, or obtufe point of a ridgeof the mountain yet above m.e, the friendly rivuletmaking a circuit by my feet ; and now a little reftcd,I took out of my wallet fome bifcuit and cheefe,and a piece of neat's tongue, compofing myfelf toeafc and refrefhment : when fuddenly appearedwithin a few yards, advancing towards me frombehind the point, a ftout likely young Indian fellow,armed with a rifle gun, and two dogs attending.A a 4Upon

3^0TRAVELS INUpon fight of me he ftoodj and feemed a iittie furpriled,as 1 was very much; but inllantly recoUeftinghimfelf and alTaming a countenance of benignity andcheerfulnef^, he came briikly to me and Hiook handsheartily, and fmilingly inquired from whence Icame, and whither going ; but fpeaking only in theCherokee tongue, our convcrfation v/as not continuedto a great length. I prefented him with fomiCchoice Tobacco, Vv'hich was accepted withcourtefyarid evident pleafure, and to my inquiries concerningthe roads and diftance to the Overhlll towns, heanfwered me with perfeft cheerfulnefs and goodtemper. We then again fhook hands, and parted infriendfhip; he defcended the hills, finging as he went.Of vege'iablc produfticns obferved in this region,were the follcwing, viz. Acer ftiiatum, Ac. rubrum»Juglans nigra. Jug. alba. Jug. Hiccory, Magnoliaacuminata, Quercus aiba, Q^ tincSloria, Q^ rubra,Q^prinus, wich the other varieties common in Virginia: Panax ginfeng, Angelica lucida, Convallariarr.ujalis,Halefia, Siev/artia, Styrax, Staphylea, Evonimus,Vibarnum, Cornus Florida, Betula nigra,Morus, Tilia, Ulmus, Fraxinus, Hopea tindoria,Annon?.,Bigni nia fempervirens, Ariftolochia frutefcens,Bignonia radicans, tzc. Being now refrefhcdby a fii^f^ple but healihy meal, 1 began again toafcend the Jore mountains, which I at length accomplifhed,and reilcd on the moft elevated peak;from whence I beheld with rapture and aftonifhmenta fublimely awful fcene of power and magnificence,a world of mountains piled upon mountains.Having contemplated this amazing profpeftof grandeur, I defcended the pinnacles, and againfalling' into the trading path, continued gently descendingthrough agrafiy plain, fcatteringly plantedwith

NORTH AMERICA.^^twith large trees, and at a diftance furrounded withhigh forefts. I was on this elevated region fenfiblcof an alteration in the air, from warm to cold, andfound that vegetation was here greatly behind, inplants of the lanne kind of the country below -, forinftance, when I left Charlefton, the yellow Jafmincwas rather pall the blooming days, and here thebuds were jul beginning to fwell, though fome werein bloom. Continued more than a mile throughthis elevated plain to the pitch of the mountain,from whence prefented to view an expanfive profpeft,exhibiting fcenes of mountainous landfcape,weftward, vaft and varied, perhaps not to be exceededany where.My firft defcent and progrefs down the weft fideof the mountain was remarkably gradual, eafy andpleafant, through grafly open forefts for the diftanceof two or three miles ; when my changeable pathfuddenly turned round an obtufe point of a ridge,and defcended precipitately down a fteep rocky hillfor a mile or more, which was very troublefome,being incommoded with fhattered fragments of themountains, and in other places with bog^y finks,occafioned by oozy fprings and rills ftagnate finkingin micaceous earth : fome of thefe fteep foft rockybanks or precipices feem to be continually crumblingto earth ; and in thefe mouldering cliffs I difcoveredveins or ftrata of moft pure and clear whiteearth^, having a faint bluifti or pearl colour gleam,fomewhat exhibiting the appearance of the littlecliffs or wavy crefts of new fallen fnowdrifts: welikewife obferve in thefe difTolving rocky cliffs, veinsof ifinglafs (Mica S. vitrum Mufcoviticum), fome• Mica nititla : fpecimens of this earth have been exported to England,for the purpofc of making Porcelain or China ware.of

^6tTRAVELS INof the flakesor laminae incredibly large, entire andtranfparent, and would ferve the purpofe of lightslor windows very well, or for lanthorns ; and hereappeared ftrata of black lead (ftibium).littleAt length, after much toil and exercife, I was arelieved by a narrow grafly vale or lawn at thefoot of this fteep dcfcent, through which courfedalong a confiderable rapid brook, on whofe banksgrew in great perfe6lion the glorious Magnoliaauriculata, together with the other confpiciiousflowering and aromatic fhrubs already mentioned -,and I obferved here in the rich bottoms near thecreek, a new fpecies of Hydrailis, having verykrge finiiated leaves and white flowers j after thisI continued feveral miles over ridges and graflyvales, watered with delightful rivulets.Next day proceeding on eight or ten miles,generally through fpacious high foreils and floweryiawns ; the foil prolific, being of an excellent qualityfor agriculture j camx near the banks of a largecreek or river, where this high forefl ended on myleft hand, the trees became more fcattered and inienfiblyunited v/ith a grafly glade or lawn borderingon the river i on the oppofite bank of whichappeared a very extenflve forefl;, conflfling entirelyof the Hemlock fpruce (P.. abics), almofl; encircledhj difliant ridges of lofty hills.Soon after crofl!ing this large branch of the Tanafe,I obferved, defcending the heights at femediflance, a company of Indians, all well mountedon hoife-back ; they came rapidly forward : ontheir nearer approacii, 1 obferved a chief at the headnf the caravan, and apprehending him to be theLitth Carpenter, emperor or grand chief of tht?Cherokees^

NORTH AiMERICA.2^3Cherokees, as they came up I turned off from thepath to make way, in token of refpeft, which complimentwas accepted, and gratefully and magnanimouflyreturned ; for his highnefs with a graciousand cheerful fmile came up to me, and clapping hishand on his breaft, offered it to me, fiying, I amAta-cul-cuUa ; and heartily fliook hands with me,and afked me if I knew it. 1 anfwered, that theGood Spirit who goes before me fpoke to me, andfaid, that is the great Ata-cul-culla ; and added,tkat I was of the tribe of white men, of Pcnnfylvania,who efteem themfclves brothers and friends tothe red men, but particularly fo to the Cherokees,and that notwithftanding we dwelt at fo great a diftance,we were united in love and friendfhip, andthat the name of Ata-cul-culla was dear to hi«white brothers of Pennfylvania.After this compliment, which feemed to be acceptable,he inquired if I came lately from Charlefton,and if John Stewart was well, faying that hewas going to fee him. 1 replied, that I came latelyfrom Charlefton on a friendly vifit to the Cherokees; that I had the honour of a perfonal acquaintancewith the fuperintendant, the beloved man,ti'hom I faw well but the day before I fet off, andwho, by letters to the principal white men in thenation, recommended me to the friendfliip andprotedion of the Cherokees. To which the greatchief was pleafed to anfwer very refpedfully, that Iwas welcome in their country as a friend and brother; and then Ihaking hands heartily bid me farewel,and his retinue confirmed it by an united voiceof affent. After giving my name to the chief, requeftingmy compliments to the fuperintendant,the emperor moved, continuing his journey forCharlefton j

and:3^4- TRAVtLS INCharkfton ; and I, yet pcrfifting in my intention ofvifiting the Overhill towns, continued on. Leavingthe great foreft, 1 mounted the high hills, defcendingthem again on the other fide, and fo on repeatedlyfor ftveral miles, without obferving any variationin the natural produftions fmce pailing the Joreand perceiving the flow progrefs of vegetation inthis mountainous, high country ; and, upon feriousconfideration, it appearing very pLiinly that I couldnot, with entire fafety, range the Overhill fettlementsuntil the treaty was over, v/hich would notcome on till late in June ; I fuddenly came to arefolution to defer thefe refearches at this time, andleave them for the employment of another feafontand m.ore favourable opportunity, and return toDartmouth in Georgia, to be ready to join a companyof adventurers who were to fet off in July forMobile in Weft Florida. The leader of this companyhad been recommended to me as a fit peribnto affift me on fo long and hazardous a journey,through the vaft territones of the Creeks.Therefore next day I turned about on my return,proceeding moderately, being engaged in notingfuch objeils as appeared to be of any moment, andcolleding fpecimens-, in the evening of nextday arrived again at Cowe.Next morning Mr. Galahan conduced me to thechief of Cowe, who during my abfence had returnedfrom the chace. The remainder of this day I fpentin obfervations in and about the town, reviewingmy fpecimens, &c.The town of Cowe confifts of about one hundreddwellings, near the banks of the Tanafe, on bothfides of the river.'The

:NORTH AMERICA. 365The Cherokees conftrufl their habitations on adifferent plan from the Creeks ; that is, but oneoblong four fquare building, of one (lory high ; thematerials confiding of logs or trunks of trees, drippedof their bark, notched at their ends, fixed oneupon another, and afterwards plaiftered well, bothinfide and out, with clay well tempered with drygrafs, and the whole covered or roofed with thebark of the chefnut tree or lono^ broad fliinp-les.This building is however partitioned tranfvcrfely,forming three apartments, which communicate witheach other by infide doors ; each houfe or liabitationhas befides a little conical houft-, covered withdirt, which is called the winter or hot- houfe ; thisftands a few yards diftant from the manfion-houfc,oppofite the front door.The council or tovv^n-houfe is a large rotunda,capable of accommodating feveral hundred peopleit Hands on the top of an ancient artificial mount ofearth, of about twenty feet perpendicular, and therotunda on the top of it being above thirty feetmore, gives the whole fabric an elevation of aboutfixty feet from the common furfice of the ground.But it may be proper to obferve, that this mount,on which the rotunda flands, is of a much ancienterdate than the building, and perhaps was raifjd foranother purpofe. The Cherokees themfelves areas ignorant as we are, by what people or for whatpurpofe thefe ardficial hills were raifed they have-,various dories concerning them, the bed of whichamount to no more than mere conjecture, andleave us entirely in the dark ; but they have a traditioncommon with the other nadons of Indian?,tliat they found them in much the fame conditioniis they now appear, when their forefathers arrivedfrom

^66TRAVELS INfrom the Weft and poflefled themfelves of the country,after vanquilTiing the nations of red men whothen inhabited it, who themfelves found thefe mountswhen they took poffeflion of the country, the formerpofTeflbrs deUvering the fame ftory concerningthem : perhaps they were defigned and appropriatedby the people who conftru6led them, to fomereligious purpofe, as great altars and temples fimilarto the high places and facred groves ancientlyamongft the Canaanites and other nations of Paleftineand Judea.The rotunda is conflrufled after the followingmanner : they firft fix in the ground a circularrange of pofts or trunks of trees, about fix feethigh, at equal diftances, which are notched at top,to receive into them, from one to another, a rangeof beams or wall plates ; within this is another circularorder of very large and ftrong pillars, abovetwelve feet high, notched in like manner at top, toreceive another range of wall plates ; and withinthis is yet another or third range of ftronger andhigher pillars but fewer in number, and fbandingat a greater diftance from each other; and laftly,in the centre ftands a very ftrong pillar, which formsthe pinnacle of the building, and to which the rafterscentre at top ; thefe rafters are ftrengthenedand bound together by crofs beams and laths, whichfuftain the roof or covering, which is a layer ofbark neatly placed, and tight enough to excludethe rain, and fometimes they caft a thin fuperficiesof earth over all. There is but one large door,^vhich ferves at the fame time to admit light fromwithout and the fmoak to efcape when a fire iskindled ; but as there is but a fmall fire kept, fufficientto give light at night, and that fed with drvfmail

;NORTH" AMERICA.2^7fmall found wood divelled of its bark, there is butlittle fmoak. Ail around the infide of the building,betwixt the fecond range of pillars and the wall, isa range of cabins or fophas, confifting of two orthree fteps, one above or behind the other, in theatricalorder, where the aifembly fit or lean downthefe fophas are covered with mats or carpets, verycurioufly made of thin fplints of Alii or Oak, wovenor platted together; near the great pillar in thecentre the fire is kindled for light, near which themuficians feat themfelves, and round about this theperformers exhibit their dances and other Hiows atpublic feflivals, which happen almoft every nightthroughout the year.About the clofe of the evening I accompaniedMr. Galahan and other white traders to the rotunda,where was a grand feftival, mufic and dancing.This afTembly was held principally to rehearfe theball-play dance, this town being challenged to playagainit another the next day.The people being affembled and feated in order,and the muficians having taken their ftation, theball opens, firft with a long harangue or oration,fpcken by an aged chief, in commendation of themanly exercile of the ball-play, recounting themany and brilliant vi6bories which the town ofCowe had gained over the other towns in the nation,not forgetting or neglecting to recite his ownexploits, together vvith thofe of other aged mennow prefent, coadjutors in the performance of thefeathletic games in their youthful days.This orationwas dehvered with great fplrit andeloquence, and was meant to influence tlie paffionsof

3^8 TRAVELS inof the young men prcfent, excite them to emulation,and infpire them wiih ambition.This prologue being at an end, the muficiansbegan, both vocal and infti umental ; when prefently*a company of girls, hand in hand, drefled in cleanwhite robes and ornamented with beads, braceletsand a profufion of gay ribbands, entering the door,immediately began to fing their refponfes in a gentle,low, and fweet voice, and formed themfelvesin a femicircular file or line, in two ranks, back toback, facing the Ipcftators and muficians, movingflowly round and round. This continued about aquarter of an hour, when we were furprifed by afudden very loud and fhrill whoop, uttered at onceby a company of young fellows, who came in brifklyafter one another, with rackets or hurls in one hand.Thefe champions likewife were well dieffed, painted,and ornamented with filver bracelets, gorgetsand wampum, neatly ornamented with moccafinsand high waving plumes in their diadems : theyimmediately formed themfelves in a femicircularrank alfo, in front of the girls, when thefe changedtheir order, and formed a fingle rank parallel to themen, raifing their voices in refponfes to the tunesof the young champions, the femicircles continuallymoving round. There was fomething fingular anddiverting in their ftep and motions, and I imaginenot to be learned to exadtnefs but with great attentionand perfeverance. The flep, if it can be fotermed, was performed after the following manner jfirft, the motion began at one end of the femicircle,gendy rifing up and down upon their toes andheels alternately, when the firfl was up on tip-toe,the next began to raife the heel, and by the timetb« firft refted again on the heel, the fecond wasen

:NORTH AMERICA.J^c)on tip- toe, thus from one end of the rank to theother, fo that fome were always up and fomedown, alternately and regularly, without the lealtbaulk or confufion ; and they at the fame time, andin the fame motion, moved on obliquely or fideways,lb that the circle performed a double or complexmotion in its progreflion, and at ibxcd timesmovement, in.t:;ntlyexhibited a grand or univerililand unexpededly to the fpe6lators, by each rankturning to right and left, taking each others placesthe movements were managed with inconceivablealcrtnefs and addrefs, and accompanied widi an inilantaneousand univerfal elevation of the voice,,and (hrili lliort whoop.The Cherokees, befide^ K:!*-pl;iyt!.'*«*dance, havea variety of others eqi laUy entertaining. The menefpeciaily exercife themfelves with a variety of gefticulationsand capers, fome of wiiich are ludicrousand diverting enough ; and they have others whichare of the martial order, and others of th^ chace jthefe feem to be fome what of a tragical nature,wherein they exhibit aftonifning feats of militaryprowefs, mafculine flrength and a6livity. Indeedall their dances and mufical entertainments feem tobe theatrical exhibitions or plays, varied with comicand fometimes lafcivious interludes : the womenhowever condu6t themfelves with a very becominggrace and decency, iniomuch that in amorous interludes,when their refponfes and geftures feem,cohfenting tonatural liberties, they veil themfelves,juft difcovering a glance of. their fparkling eyesand blufhing faces, expreffive of fcnfibihty.Next morning early I fet off on my return, andmeeting with no material occurrences on the road,in tv,'o days arrived fife at Keowe, \Yhere 1 tarriedB btw(^

37^TRAVELS INtv/o or three days, employed in augmenting mycolledions of fpecimens, and waiting for Mr. Galahan,who was to call on me here, to accompanyhim to Sinica, where he and other traders were tomeet Mr. Cameron, the depiity-commifTary, tohold a congrcfs at that town, with the chiefs of theLower Cherokees, to confult preliminaries introduftoryto a general congrcfs and treaty with thefeIndians, which was toheld in the Overhill towns.Ibe convened next June, andobferved in the environs of Keowe, on the bafesof the rocky hills, immediately afcending from thelow grounds near the river bank, a great number ofvery fingular antiquities, the work of the ancients;they feem to me to have been altars for facrilice orfepulchres : they were conftruded of four flat ftones,two fet on an edge for the fides, one clofed oneend, and a very large flat one lay horizontally attop, fo that the other end was open ; this fabric wasfour or five (cet in length, two (tet high, and threein width. I inquired of the trader what they were,who could not tell me certainly, but fuppofed themto be ancient Indian ovens j the Indians can give noaccount of them : they are on the furface of theground, and are of different dimenfions.I accompanied the traders to Sinica, where wefound the commiflTary azid the Indian chiefs convenedin council : continued at Sinica fome time,employing myfelf in obfervations, and making col-Icftions of every thing worthy of notice : and findingthe Indians to be yet unfettled in their determination,and not in a good humour, I abandonedthe projcft of vifiting the regions beyond the Cherokeemountains for this feafon ; fet off on my ren;rnto fort James, Dartmouth, lodged this nightin

NORTH AMERICA.37 tin the foreds near the b:inks of a delightful largecreek, a branch of Keowe river, and next day arrivedfafe at Dartmouth.Lift of the towns and villages inthe Cherokee nationinhabitedat this day, viz.No. I Echoe2 Nucaffe3 Whatoga4 CoweOn the Tanafe Eaftthe Jore mountains.4 towns.of5 Ticoloofa6 Jore7 Conifca8 Nowe9 Tomothle10 Noewe11 TelHco12 Clennufe13 Ocunnolufte14 Chewe15 Quanufe16 TelloweInland on the branchesof the Tanafe.4 towns.On the Tanafe over theJore mountains.»8 towns.17 Tellicoi3 Chatuga19 Hiwalfe20 Chewafe21 Nuanha22 Tallafe23 Chelowe24 Sette25 Chote great26 Joco27 TahafTeInland towns on thebranches of the Tanafeand other waters overthe Jore mountains.5 towns.Overhill towns on theTanafe or CherokeeBbriver.6 towns.28 Tamahle

572 TRAVELS IN28 Tamahle Overhill towns on the29 Tiifkege Tanafe or Cherokee30 .Biglfland > river.^i Nilaque f5 towns.J 2 Niowe INo.Lower towns Eafl of the mountains, viz.I Sinica2 Keowe3 Kulfage4 Tugilo5 Eftotowe6 Qualatche7 Chote1}On the Savanna orKeowe river.On Tugilo river.On Flintriver.Towns on the waters of other rivers.Eftotowe great. Allagae. Jore. Nae oche.In all forty-three towns.C H A Pe

JNORTH AMERICA,0/CHAP. V.Being returned from the Cherokee country toDartmouth, I underftood that the company of adventurersfor Weft Florida, were vciy forward intheir preparations, and would be ready to let off ina few weeks, fo that I had but a littleti

374 TRAVELS INNext morning after breakfaft: we fet off again,continuing nine or ten miles farther down the river,when we flopped at a plantation, the property ofone of our companions, where we were joined bythe red of the company. After dining here weprepared to depart ; and the gentleman of the houfetaking an afFe

NORTH AMERICA.375Ipomea quamoclit; from about one half its lengthupwards, it fends out on all fides, afcendant brancheswhich divide again and again ; thefe ternninate withlarge tubular or funnel-formed flowers; their limbsequally divided into five fegments; thefe beautifulflowers are of a perfe^ rofe colour, elegantly befprinkledon the infide of their petals witli crimfonfpecks ; the flower.s are in great abundance, andtogether with the branches and delicately fine cutleaves, compofe a conical fpike or compound pannicle.I law a fpecies of this plants if not the veryfame, growing on the fea-coall iflands near St. Auguftine.The blue flowered Malva and Delphiniumwere its aflTociates about the Flat-rock.There are extenfive cane brakes or cane meadowsfpread abroad round about, which afford themoft acceptable and nourilhing food for cattle.This evening two companies of Indian tradersfi-om Augufta arrived and encamped near us ; andas they were bound to the Nation, we concluded tounite in company with them, they gencroufly offeringus their affiftance, having many fpare horfes andothers lightly loaded, feveral of ours by this timebeing jaded : this was a favourable opportunity ofrelief incafe of neceffity.Next morning as foon as the horfes were packedand in readinefs, we decamped and fct forwardtogether.I thought itwordiy of taking notice of a fingularn-iethod the traders make ufe of toreduce the wildyoung horfes to their hard duty. When any oneperfiits in refufing to receive his load, if threats, thedifcipline of die whip, and otlier common abufe,B b 4prove

37^TRAVELS INprove infufficlent, after being haltered, a pack-'horfe-man catches the tip end of one of his ears betwixthis teeth and pinches it, when inftaritly theftirious frrong creature, trembling, ftands perfeftlyftill undl he is loaded.Our caravan confifting of about twenty men andfixty horfes, we made a formidable appearance,having now little to apprehend from predatory^bands or out-laws.This day's journey was for the mofl part overhigh gravelly ridges, and on the moft elevated hills,appeared emerging out of the earth, rocky cliffs ofa dark reddifh brown colour ; their com poll tionfeemed to be a coarfe, fandy, ferruginous concrete,but fo firmly cemented as to conftitute a perfe6l hardi'cone or rock, and appeared to be excavated or worninto cavities or furrows by the violence of die dafhingbillows and rapid currents of the ocean, whichheretofore probably waflied them ; there were howeverftrata or veins in thefe rocks, of a finer compofitionand compadt confidence, and feemed ponderousrich iron ore. A little depth below thefandy gravelly furface, lies a flratum of very cornpadreddifh yellow clay and fragments of ochre.The trees and fhrubs common on thefe gravellyridges are as follows, Diofpyros, Quercus mbra,Q^nigra, Q^tinftoria or great Black Oak, Q^alba,Q^lobata, poft White Oak, Q^incana, foliis ovalibusintegerrimis fubtus incanis, Pinus lutea, Pinustasda, foliis geminatis et trinis, flrobilo ovato brevi,cortice rimofo, Pinus paluflris, foliis trinis iongilfimis,flrobilo elongata, Coruus Florida, Andronicdaurborea, NyfJa fylvatica, Juglans hiccory,'primus padus, ^c. Of /urbacese, Sclidago, Eupaz.toriunij

NORTH AMERICA.rfJJtoiiLiiTi, Sylphiiim, Riidbcckia, Gerardia, Afclepias,Agave Virjiinica, Eryngium, Thapfia, Euphorbia,Polymnia, &c.In the coiirfe of this day's journey we crofledtwo conliderable rivulets, running fwifdy over rockybeds. There is fome very good land on the gradualdefccnts of the ridges and their bottoms borderingon creeks, and very cxtenfive gralTy favannasand cane meadows always in view on one liandor the other. At evening we came to camp on thebanks of a beautiful creek, a branch of Great Ogeche,called Rocky Comfort, where v/e found excellentaccommodations, here being pleafant grafiyopen plains to Ipread our beds upon, environedwith extenfive cane meadows, affording the belt offood for our quadiupeds.The next day's journey led us over a level diftriftj the land generally very fertile and of a goodquality for agriculture, the vegetable furface beingof a dark, loofe, rich mould, on a ftratum of ftiffreddiih brown chy. CrolTing feveral confiderabiecreeks, branches of the Ocone, North branch of theAlatamaha; at evening, July ift, encamped on thebanks of the Ocone, in a delighrfui grove of foreiltrees, confiding of Oak, Alh, Mulberry, Hiccory,Black Walnut, Elm, SalTafras, Gleditfia, &c. Thisflourifhing grove was an appendage of the high foreftswe had pafled through, and prcjefted into anexcenfive, green, open, level plain, confifling ofold Indian fields and plantations, being the rich lowlands of the river, and ftretching along its banksupwards to a very great diftance, charmingly diverGfiedand decorated with detached groves andclumps of various trees and fhrubs, and indentedon its verge by advancing and retreating promontoriesof the high land.Our

378 TRAVELS INOur encarnprrient was fixed on the fine of the oldOcone town, which, about fixty years ago, was evacuatedby the Indians, who, finding their fituationdifagreeable from its vicinity to the white people,left it, moving upwards into the Nation orUpper Creeks, and there built a town ; but thatfituation not fuiting their roving difpofition, theygrew fickly and tired of it, and refolved to fcek anhabitanon more agreeable to their minds.They allarofe, direfting their migration South-Eafiward towardsthe fea coaft j and in the courfe of their journey,obierving the delightful appearance of the extenfiveplains of Alachua and the fertile hills environingit, they fat down and built a town on thebanks of a fpacious and beautiful lake, at a fmalldiftance from the plains, naming this new town,Cufcowilla : this fituation pleafed them, the vaftdefarts, forefts, lakes and favannas around, affordingunbounded range of the beft hunting groundfor bear and deer, their favourite game. But althoughthis fituation was healthy and delightful tothe utmoft degree, affording them variety andplenty of every defirable thing in their eftimation,yet troubles and afBidtions found them out. Thisterritory, to the promontory of Florida, was thenclaimed by the Tomocos, Udnas, Calloofas, Yamafes,and other remnant tribes of the ancient Floridansand the more Northern refugees, drivenaway by the Carolinians, now in alliance and underthe protecflion of the Spaniards, who aflifting them,attacked the new fettlement, and for many yearswere very troublefome j but the Alachuas or Oconcsbeing flrengthcncd by other emigrants andfugitive bands from the Upper Creeks, with v/liomthey were confederated, and who gradually eftablifhedother towns in this low country, ftretching a lineftttlcmcnts acroib the iil^imu^j extending from theofAlatamal;a

NORTH AMERICA.^JQAktamaha to the bay of Apalache ; thefe uniting,were at length able to face their enemies, and evenattack them in their own fettlements; and in theend, with the afTiftance of the Upper Creeks, theiruncles, vanquiflied their enemies and deftroyedthem, and then fell upon the Spanifh fettlements,which alfo they entirely broke up. But havingtreated of thefe matters in the journal of my travelsinto Eaft Florida, I end this digrefiion and proceedagain on my journey.After croffing the Ocone by fording it, whichis about two nundred and fifty yards over, we travelledabout twenty miles, and came to camp in theevening Jpafled over a plcafant territory, prefentingvarying fcenes of gentle fwelling hills and levels,affording fublime forefts, contrafted by expanfiveillumined o-recn fields, native meadows andCane brakes ; the ve>zetables, trees, flirubs andplants, the fame as already noticed Vv-ithout any materialvariation. The next day's journey wasabout twenty miles, having croffed the Oakmuigeby fording it three or four hundred yards over.This river is the main brnch of the beautiful Alatamaha: on the Eail bank of the river lie the famousOakmuige fields, where are yet confpicuousvery wonderful remains of the power and grandeurof the ancients of this part of America, in the ruinsof a capital town and fettlement, as vail artificialhills, terraces, &c. already particularly mentionedin my tour through the lower diftrifts of Georgia.The Oakmuige here is about forty miles diftancefrom the Ocone, the other arm of the Alatamaha.In the evening we came to camp near the banks ofStony Creek, a large rapid water about fix milesbeyond the river.Next

^SOTRAVELS INNext day vve travelled about twenty miles farther,croffing two Confideiable creeks named Greatand Little Tobofochte ; and at evening encampedclofe by a beautiful large brook called Sweet Water,the glittering waving flood pafllng along activelyover a bed of pebbles and gravel. The territorythrough which we pafTed from the banks of theOakmulge to this place, exhibited a delightful diverfifiedrural Iccne, and promifes a happy, fruitful,and filubrious region, when cultivated by induftriousinhabitants ; generally ridges of low fwellinghills and plains fuppordng grand forefls, vail Canemeadows, favannas and verdant lawns.I obferved here a very lingular and beautifulIhrub, which I fuppofc is a fpecies of Hydrangia(PI. quercifoiia). It grows in coppices or clumps nearor on the banks of rivers and creeks; mnny ftemsiifually arife from a root, fprcading itfelf greatly onail fides by fuckers or offsets ; the ftems grow fiveor fix feet hio-h, declinins; or divero-ing from eachother, and are covered with feveral barks or rinds,the lail of which being of a cinereous dirt colourand very thin, at a certain age of the ftems or fhoots,cracks through to die next bark, and is peeled offby the winds, difcovering the under, fmooth, darkreddifli brown bark, which alfo cracks and peels off"the next yeai*, in like manner as the former ; thusevery year forming a new bark ; the ftems divideregularly or oppofitelv, though the branches arecrooked or v/reathe about horizontally, and thcfeagain divide, forming others which terminate withlarge heavy panicles or thyrfi of flowers; butthefe flowers are of two kinds : the numerous partialfpikes which compofe the panicles, and conftftof a aiultitude of very fmall fruitful flowers, terminate

;j^OTRAVELS IN"NcJit day we travelled about twenty miles farther,crofling two Confideiable creeks named Greatand Little Tobofochte ; and at evening encampedclofe by a beautiful large brook called Sweet Water,the glittering waving flood palling along a6tive-]y over a bed of pebbles and gravel. The territorythrough which we palled from the banks of theOakmulge to this place, exhibited a delightful diverfifiedrural Ibene, and promifes a happy, fruitful,and filubrious region, when cultivated by induftriousinhabitants ; generally ridges of low Iwellinghills and plains fiipporting grand forefis, vail Canemeadows, favannas and verdant lawns.I obferved here a very fingular and beautifulihrub, which I fuppofe is a fpecies of Hydrangia(FI. q.uercifoha). It grows in coppices or clumps nearor on the banks of rivers and creeks; many fbemsiifually arife from a root, iprcading itfelf greatly onail fides by fuckers or offsets ; the ftems grow fiveor fix feet high, declining or diverging from eachother, and are covered with feveral barks or rinds,the laft of which being of a cinereous dirt colourand very thin, at a certain age of the ftems or fhoots,cracks through to die next bark, and is peeled offby the winds, difcovering the under, fmooth, darkreddifli brown bark, which alfo cracks and peels offthe next year, in like manner as the fijrmer; thusevery year forming a new bark ; the ftems divideregularly or oppofitelv, though the branches arecrooked or v/reathe about horizontally, and thefeagain divide, forming others which terminate withlarge heavy panicles or thyrfi of flowers; butthefe flowers are of two kinds : the numerous partialfpikes which compofe the panicles, and confiftof a multitude of very fmall fruitful flowers, terminate

I'l.ll

NORTH AMERICA.^8 Iminate with one or more very large expanfive neutralor mock flowers, (landing on a long, flt'nder,ilifF p'^duncle ; thefe flowers ai e coiiipofeci o{' fburbroad oval petals or fegments, of a dark role orcrimlbn colour at firft, but as they become olderacquire a deeper red or purplilli hue, and laftly arcof a brown or ferruginous colour j thefe have noperfeft parts of generation of cither lex, but difcoverin their centre, two, three or four papilht orrudiments J thefe neutral flowers, with the wholepannicle, are truly permanent, remaining on theplant for years, until they dry and decay :the leaveswhich clothe the plants are very large, pinnatiflclor palmated, and ferrated or toothed, very muchrefembling the leaves of fome of our Oaks ; theyfit oppolite, fupported by flender petioles, and areof a fine, full green colour.Next day after noon we croiTcd FHnt river byfording it, about two hundred and fifty yards overyand at evening came to camp near the banks ofa large and deep creek, a branch of the Flint.The high land excellent, altording grand forefts,and the low ground vafl timber and Canes of greatheight and thicknefs, Arundo gigantea. I obfervcdgrowing on the fteep dry banks of this creek, afpecies of fhrub Hypericum, of extraordinary ihowand beauty (Hypericum aureum). It grows ereft,three or four feet high, forming a globular top,reprefenting a perfect little tree ; the leaves arclarge, oblong, firm of texture, fmooth and fliining;the flowers are very large, their petals broad andconfpicuous, which, with their tufts of golden filaments,give the little bulhes a very fpiendid appearance.The adjacent low grounds andCane Iwamp afforded

382 TRAVELS INforded excellent food and range for our horfes, who,by diis time- through fatigue of conftant travelling,heat of the climate and feafon, were tired and difpirited: we came to camp fooner than ufual, andllarted later next day, that they might have timeto reft and recruit themfelves. The territory lyingupon this creek, and the fpace between it andthe river, prefent every appearance of a delightfuland fruitful region in fome future day, it beinga rich foil, and exceeding well fituated for everybranch of agriculture and grazing, diverfified withhills and dales, favannas and vaft Cane meadows,and watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks,all contiguous to the Flint river : an arm of thegreat Chaca Uche or Apalachucla offers an uninterruptednavigation to the bay of Mexico and the Atlanticocean, and thence to the Weft India iflandsand over the whole world.Our horfes being hunted up and packed, fat forwardagain, proceeding moderately, afcending ahigher country and moreu»even by means of ridges,of gentle hills ; the country however very pleafing,being diverfified with expanfive groves, favannasand Cane meadows, abounding with creeks andbrooks gliding through the plains or roving aboutthe hills, their banks bordered with forefts andgroves, confifting of varieties of trees, fhrubs andplants ; the fummits of the hills frequently prefentingto view piles and cliffs of the ferruginous rocks,the fame fpecits as obferved on the ridges betweenthe Flat-rock and Rocky Comfort.Next day we travelled but a few miles ; dieheat and the burning fies tormenting our horfesto fuch a degree, as to excite compalfion even inthe hearts of pack-horfemen. Thefc biung flies areof

:NORTH AMERICA.-jgjof feveral fpecies, and their numbers Incredible.We travelled almoil: from fun- rife to his fetting,amidft a flying hoftof thefe perfecuting fpirirs, whoformed a vaft cloud around our caravan fo thick asto obfcure every dirtanc object ibut our van alwaysbore the brunt of the confiicl; the head, neck, andfhoulders of the leading hories were continually ina gore of blood : fome of thefe flies were near aslarge as humble bees ; this is the hippobofca. Theyare armed with a fl:rong fliarp beak or probofcis,fliaped like a lancet, and flieathed in flexible thinvalves ; with this beak they inftantly pierce theveins of the creatures, making a large orifice fromwhence the blood fprings in large drops, rollingdown as tears, caufing a tierce pain or aching for aconfiderable time after the wound is made. Thereare three or four fpecies of this genus of lefs fizebut equally vexatious, as they are vaflly more numerous,a^live and fanguineous ; particularly, oneabout half the flze of the firfl mentioned, the nextlefs, of a dufky colour with a green head ; anotheryet fomewhat lefs, of a fplendid green and the headof a gold colour.; the fling of this is intolerable,no lefs acute than a prick from a red-hot needle, ora fpark of fire on tlie flvin ; thefe are called theburning flies. Befides the preceding tormentors,there are three or four fpecies of the afilus or fmallerbiting flies ; one of a grayifli dufky colour; anothermuch of the fame colour, having fpotted wingsand a green head; and another very fmall andperfecflly black: this laft fpecies lies in ambufli inIhrubby thickets and Cane brakes near waterwhenever we approach the cool lliadcs near creek?,impatient for repofe and relief, almofl flnking underthe periecutions from the evil jpirits, who continually

;384 TRAVELS INtinually furround and follow us over the burningdefart ridges and plains, and here are in fome hopesof momentary peace and quietnefs, under coverof the cool humid groves, we are furprized andquickly invefted with dark clouds of thefe perfecutingdemons, befides mufquitoes and gnats (culexet cynips).The next day, being in like manner opprefled andharalfed by the flinging flies and heats, we haltedat noon, being unable longer to fupport ourfelvesunder iuch grievances, even in our prefent fituationcharming to the fenfes, on the acclivicy of a highfwelling ridge planted with open airy groves of thefuperb tercbinthine Pines, glittering rills playingbeneath,, and peilucid brooks meandering throughan expanfive green favanna, their banks ornamentedwith coppices of blooming aromatic ihrubsand plants perfumiing the air. The meridian heatsiuft allayed, the fun isveiled in a dark cloud, rifingNorth-Weftward ; the air Hill, gloomy and fultrythe animal fpirits fink under the conflift, and wcfall into a kind of mortal torpor rather than refrefhingrepofe; and ftartled or terrified at eachothers plaintive murmurs and groans. Now theearth trembles under the peals of incefTant diftanrthunder, the hurricane comes- on. roaring, and Iam fhocked again to life : I raife ray head and rubopen my eyes,, pained with gleams and fialhes ofliglitning; when juft attempting to wake my affli6ledbrethren and companions, ahiriofl overwhelmedv/ith floods of rain, the dark cloud opensover my head, developing a vaft river of the etherialfire-,I am inflantly ftruck dumb, ina6tive andbenumbed ; at length the puife of life begins tovibrate, the animal fpirits begin to exert their|)owers, and I am by degrees revived.In

NORTH AMERICA,jg^In the evening this furprirmgly heavy tcmpcftjp^fled off, we had a fcrene flcy and a pleafanc coolhight; having had time enough to colled a greatquantity of wood and Pine knot to fcvd our firesand keep up a light in our camp, which was a luckyprecaution, as we found it abfolutely nccefiary todry bur clothes and warm ourfelves, for all ourIkins and bedding were cafl over the packs of merchandizeto prevent rhem and our provifion frombeing injured by the deluge of rain. Next day wasCool and pleafant, the air having recovered its elafticityand vivific fpiric: I found myfeif cheerfuland invigorated ; indeed all around us appeared reanimated,and nature prefcnted her cheerful countenance; the vegetables fmiled in their bloomingdecorations and fparkling cryftalline dew-drops..The birds fung merrily in the groves, and the alertroe-buck whiftled and bounded over the ample meadsdnd green turfy hills. After leaving our encampment,we travelled over a delightful territory, prefentingto view variable fylvan fcenes, confifting ofchains of low hills affording high forefts, with expanfivefavannas, Cane meadows, and lawns between,"watered with rivulets and 2:litterinor brooks. Towardsevening we came to camp on the banks ofPintchlucco, a large branch of the Chata Uche river.The next day*s journey was over an uneven hillycountry, but the foil generally fertile, and of aquality and f tuation favourable to agriculture andgrazing, the fummits of the ridges rough with ferruginousrocks, in high cliffs and fragments, fcatteredover the fur(ace of the ground : obfervedalfo high cliffs of ftiff reddifh brown clay, with veinsor ftrata of ferruginous ftones, either in detachedmaffes or conglomerated nodules or hematites withveins or maffes of ochre.C cNext

-736 TRAVELS INNext day, after traverfing a very delightful territory,exhibiting a charming rural fcenery of primitivenature,gently defcending and paffing alternatelyeafy declivities or magnificent terraces fupportingfublime forefts, almoft endlefs grafly fields,detached groves and green lawns for the diftanceof nine or ten miles, we arrived at the banks of theChata Uche river oppofite the Uche town ; where,after unloading cur horfes, the Indians came overto us in large canoes, by means of which, with thecheerful and liberal afTiliance of the Indians, ferriedover the merchandize, and afterwards drivingour horfes altogether into the river fwam themover : the river here*is about three or four hundredyards v/ide, carries fifteen or twenty feet water,and flows dovv^n with an aftive current 3 the wateris clear, cool and faiubrious.The Uche town is fituated in a vaft plain, onthe gradual afcent as we rife from a narrow ftrip«f low ground immediately bordering on the river :it is the largefl, moft compact, and bcft fituatedIndian town I ever faw^ the habitations are largeand neatly built; die walls of the houfes are conilruftedof a wood^^n frame, then lathed and plaifteredinfidc and out with a reddifh well temperedclay or mortar, which gives them the appearanceoi' red brick wails ; and theie houfes are neatly coveredor roofed with Cyprefs bark or fliingles of*that tree. The town appeared to be populous andtiiriving, full of youth and young children : I fuppofedie number of inhabitants, men, women andchildren'j might amount to one thoufand or fifteenhundred, as it is fald tliey are able to mufter fivehundred gun-men or warriors. Their own nationallanguage is altogctlicr or radically different from2 the

NbRTH AMERICA, 387the Creek or Mufcogulge tongue, and is called theSavanna or Savanuca tongue; I was told by thetraders it was the ilime with, or a dialed: of, the^hawanefe. They are in confederacy with theCreeks, but do not mix with thenij and, On I'ccountof their numbers and ftrength, are of importanceenough to excite and draw upon them the jealoufyof the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, and areufually at variance, yet are v/ife enr-ugh to uniteagainft a common enemy, to fupp :>rt the intereftand glory of the general Creek confederacy.After a little refrefhment at this beautiful town,we repacked and fet off again for the Apalachuclatown, where we arrived after riding over a levelplain, confifting of ancient Indian plantationb, dbeautiful landfcape diverfified with groves andlawns.Tliis is efteemed the mother town or Capital ofthe Creek or Mufcogulge confederacy ; facred topeace ; no captives are put to death or humanblood fpik here. Apd when a general peace ispropoled, deputies from all the towns in the confederacyaflemble at this capital, in order to de-Jiberate upon a fubjeft of fo high importance forthe profperity of the commonwealth.And on the contrary the great Coweta town,about twelve miles higlier up this river, is called thebloody town, v/here the Micos, chiefs, and warriorsailemble when a general war is propofed -, and herecaptives and ilatenialefadlors are put to death.The time of my condhuance here^ which wasabout a week, was employed in excurfions roundabout this fetclement. One day the chief tradernf Apalachucla obhged me with !jisC c 2company on awalk

J88 TRAVELS INwalk of about a mile itnd an half down the river, toview the ruins and fite of the ancient Apalachuck :it had been fituated on a peninfula formed by adoubling of -the river, and indeed appears to havebeen a very famous capital by the artificial moundsor terraces, and a very populous fettlement, fromits extent and expanfive old fields, ftretching beyondthe fcope of the fight along the low groundsof the river. We viewed the mounds or terraces,on which formerly flood their town houfe or rotundaand fquare or areopagus, and a little behindthefe, on a level height or natural ftep, above thelow grounds, is a vaft artificial terrace or four fquareinound, now feven or eight feet higher than thecommon furface of the ground ; in front of oneiiquare or fide of this mound adjoins a very exteniivtoblong fquare yard or artificial level plain, funka little below the common furface, and furroundedwith a bank or narrow terrace, formed with theeirth throvv^n out of this yard at the time of its formation: the Creeks or prefent inhabitants have atradition that this was the work of the ancients,many ages prior to their arrival and poircfTing thiscountry*This old town was evacuated about twenty year?ago by the general confent of the inhabiuants, onaccount of its unhealthy fituation, owing to the frequentinundations of the river over the low grounds;and moreover they grew timorous and dejefted,apprehending (hemfelves to be haunted and poffelfcdwith vengeful fpirits, on account of humanblood that had been undefervedly * fpilt in this oldtown,* About fifty or fixtf years ago almgil all t|ic white traders then in the«ation were mafTacrtxl in this town, whither th(*y had repj,uj|tl from the differenttowns, in hope; of an afylum vr refuge, in confequence of the alarm*liaving been tiouetj' lipjjrizeti of the hoft^s ijitciuions of the Indians by theiriem|)orary

NORTH AMERICA. 389town, having been repeatedly warned by apparitionsand dreams to leave it.At the time of their leaving this old town, likethe ruin or difperfion of the ancient Babel, the inhabitantsfeparated from each other, forming feveralbands under the conduft or aufpices of theqhief of each family or tribe. The greateft number,however, chofe to fit down and build the prcfentnew Apaiachucla town, upon a high bank, of theriver above the inundations. The other bandspurfued different routs, as their inclinations ledthem, fetding villages lower down the river; fomecontinued their migration towards the fea coaft,feeking their kindred and countrymen amongft theLower Creeks in Eall Florida, where they fettledthemfelves. Mv intellio;ent friend, the trader ofApaiachucla, having from a long refidence amongftthefe Indians acquired an extenfive knowledge oftheir cuftoms and affairs, I inquired of him whatwere his fentiments with refpeft to their wandering,unfettled difpofition ; their io frequently breakingup their old towns and fettling new ones, &c»His anfwers and opinions were, the neceility theywere under of having frefh or new ftrong land fortheir plantations, and new, convenient and extenfiverange or hunting ground, which unavoidablyforces them into contentions and wars with theirconfederates and neighbouring tribes ; to avoidwhich they had rather move and feek a plentifuland peaceable retreat, even at a diftance, than con^tend with friends and relatives or embroil themfelvestemporary wives. They all met together in one lioufe, under the avoweiiprotection of the chiefs of the tovyii> waiting the event ; but whilft the chiefswere affembled in council, deliberating on ways ami means to (irotedlthem,the Indians in nniltitu

looks2gQTRAVELS IKfin deftruclive wars with their neighbours, whenqither can be avoided v;ith fo little inconvenience.With regard to the Mufcogulges, the firft objeft inorder to obtain thefe conveniencies was the deftruCtionof the Yamafes, who held the pofTeffion ofFJoridaj and were in clofe alliance with the Spaniards,their declared and moft inveterate enemy,which they at length fully accomplifhed ; and bythis conqucll they gained a vaft and invaluable territory,comprehending a delightful region, and modplentiful country for their favourite game, bear and4eer. But not yet fatisfied, having already fo farconquered the powerful Cherokees, as, in a man^•ner, to force theqi to alliance, and compelled the"warlike Chicafaws to fue for peace and alliance withthem 5 they then grew arrogant and infatiable, an4>i:urned their covetous , towards the potent andintrepid Chaclav/s, the only Indian enemy they hadto fear, meaning to break them up and poffefs themfelvesof that extenfive, fruitful and delightful country,and make it a part of their vaft empire. Butthe Chaftaws, a powerful, hardy, fubtils and intrepidrace, cftimated at twenty thoufand warriors, arelikely to afford fuhicicnt ex:;rcife for the proud andrefrlefs fpirits of the Mufcogulges, at leaft for fomeyears to come ; and they appear to be fo equallymatched with the Cl^ac^^ws, tiiat it feems dcubtfulwhich of thefe powerful nations will rife viftorious.The Creeks have fworn, it feems, that they neverwill make peace with this enemy as long as therivers flow or the fun purfues his courfc throughthe fldesoThus we fee that war or the exercife of armsoriginates from the fame motives, and operates inthe fpirits of the wild red men of America, as itformerly

NORTH AMERICA.-^Olformerly did with the renowned Greeks and Romans,or modern civiHzed nations, and not from aferocious, capricious defire of Ihedding human bloodas carnivorous lavages : neither does the eageravarice of plunder fliimulate them to a6ls of mad^nefsand cruelty, that being a trifling objetl: in theireftimation, a duffield blanket, a poiifhed rifle gun,or embroidered mantle ; no, their martial prowetsand objects of defire and ambition proceed fromgreater principles and more magnanimous intentions,even that of reuniting all nations and languagesunder one univerfal confederacy or commonwealth.The vegetable produ6lions in the rich lowground, near the banks of this great river, of treesand fhrubs, are as follow ; Platanus occidentalis,Liriodendron tulipifera, Populus heterophylla, Laurusfaflfafras, Laurus Barbonia, Laurus benzoin, Betulalenta, Salix fluvialis, Magnolia grandiflora, Annonaglabra, Ulmus campeftris, Uimus fuberifera,Carpinus, Quercus, various ipecies, Juglans, variousfpecies, j^fculus pavia, i^fculus fylvatica, CVirginiana, Morus, Hopea tindoria, Fagus fylvatica,of furprifing magnitude and comelinefs, &c.The land rifes from the river with fubiime magnificence,gradually retreating by flights or fteps onebehind and above the other, in beautiful theatricalorder, each ftcp or terrace holding up a level plain;and as we travel back from the river, the fteps arecorrefponding levels are more andhigher, and themore expanfive : the afcents produce grand highforefts, and the plains prefent to view a delightfulvaried landfcape, confifl:ing of extenfive graflTytields,detached groves of high foreft trees, and clumps oflower trees, evergreen fhrubs and herbage jgreenknolls, with ferpentine, wavy, glittering brooksC c4courfing

'39^TRAVELS INcourfing through the green plains j and dark promontories,or obtufe proje6tions of the fide-longacclivities, alternately advancing or receding or^the verge of the illumined nativte fields, to the utmoftextent of fight. The funnnnits of the acclivitiesafford, befides the foreft trees already recited,Halefia, Ptelea, Circis, Cornus Florida and Amorpha.The upper mound or terrace holds up a dilatedlevel plain of excellent land, for the diftance of five;or fix miles in width, which is a high fqreft of themajeftic trees already mentioned, as Quercus tinftbria,Juglans nigra, Morus, Ulmus, Tilia, Gleditfia,Juglans hiccory, &c. The land after this diftance,|:hough almofl: fiat and level, becomes leaner; thevegetative mould or furface is fiiallower, op aftratum of tenaceous humid clay, for the diftanceof fifteen or twenty miles, more or lefs, accordingto the diftance of the next great river jpr^fentingto our view a fine expanfe of level grafiy plains,detached forefts and groves of Quercus alba,Q^lobata, Q^ phillos, Q. hemifpherica, Q^ aquatica,•with entire groves of the fplendid Nyifa fylvaticaand perfumed Liquidambar ftyraciflua, vaft Canemeadows, apd laftly a chain of grafiy iavannas.Immediately from this we began to afcend graduallythe moft elevated, gravelly and ftony ridge,confifting of parallel chains of broken fv/elling|iills, the very higheft chain frequently prefentingto view cliffs of the ferruginous rocks and redclay already noticed. This laft mentioned highridge divides the waters of the great rivers fromeach other, whence arife the fources of their numerouslateral branches, gradually increafing as theywind about the hills, fertilizing the vales and levelplains, by their inundations, as they pour forthfrom the vaft humid forefts and ftiaded prolific hills,'-and

NORTH AMERICA.«rt^mid laftly, flow down, with an eafy meandering,IJeady courfe, into the rivers to which they are tributary.Our horfes by this time having recruited themfelvcsby ranging at liberty an.i feeding in the richyoung cane fwamps, in the vicinity of Apalachucla,we refumed our journey for Mobile, havinghere repaired our equipage, and repleniflied ourfelveswith frefh fupplies of provifions. Our caravanwas now reduced to its original number; thecompanies of traders who joined us at the Flat-rock%on our arrival at this town fcparated from us, betakingthcmfelves to the feveral towns in the Nation,where they were refpeiftively bound. I fhalljuft mention a very curious non-defcript fhrub, whichI obferved growing in the Ihady forefts, beneaththe afcents, next bordering on the rich low landsof the river.This floloniferous fhrub grows five or fix feet inlieight Jmany ftems ufually afcend from onti rootor the fame fourcej thefe feveral fi;ems divergefrom each other, or incline a little towards the earth,covered with a fmooth whitilh bark, divided oppofitely,and the branches wreathe and twift about,being ornamented with compound leaves; therebeing five lanceolate ferratcd leaves, afibciAted uponone general long (lender petiole, which iland oppofitely,on the branches, which terminate with aIpike,or panicle of v/hite flowers, having an agreeablefcent : from the charadlers of the flowers, thisfhrub appears to be a fpecies of .^fculus or Pavia,but as I could find none of the fruit and but a (cwflowers, quite out of feafon and imperfe

'394 TRAVELS INCHAP. VI.July 13th v/e left the Apalachucla town, andthree days journey brought us to Talalle, a townon the Tallapoore river, the North Eail greatbranch of the Alabama or Mobile river ; havingpailcd ever a vaft level plain country of expanfivefavannaSj groves. Cane fwamps and open Pine forefts,watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks,tributary to Apalachucla and Mobile. We nowaltered our courfe, turning to the left hand. Southerly,and defcending near the river banks, continuallyin fight of the Indian plantations and comn:ions adjacentto their towns. Faffed by Otaffe, an ancientfamous Mufcogulge town. The next fettlementwe carne to was Coolome, where we flayed twoidays, and having letters for Mr. Germany, the principaltrader of Coolom.e, I meant to confult withhim in matters relative to my affairs and future proceedings.Here are yery extenfive old fields, the abandonedplantations and commons of the old town, on theEaff fide of the river j but the fetdement is removed,and the new tov/n now ftands on the oppofitefhore, in a charming fruitful plain, under an elevatedridge of hills, the fweliing beds or bafes of whichare covered with a pleafmg verdure of grafs ; butthe laft afrent is ftecper, and towards the fummitdifcovcrs flielving rocky cliffs, which appear to becontinually fplitting and burfting to pieces, fcatteringtheir thin exfoliations over the tops of the grafi'yknolls beneath. The plain is narrow where thetown

NORTH AMERICA.ja|town is built : their houfes are neat commodiou?buildings, a wooden frame with plaiftered walls,and roofed with Cyprefs bark or fliingles; everyhabitation confifts of four obkno; fquare houfes, ofone ftoiy, of the fame form and u.r.ienfions, and fofituated as to form an exaft Iquare, encompafllngan area or court yard of about a quarter of anacre of ground, leaving an entrance into it at eachcorner. Here is a beautiful neiv fquare or areopagus,in the centre of the new towns but the ftores ofthe principal trader, and two or three Indian Imbitations,ftand near the banks of the oppofitefhore on the fite of the old Coolome town, llieTallapoofe river is here three hundred yards over,and about fifteen or twenty feet deep : the water isvery clear, agreeable to the tafte, eftcemed falurbrious, and runs with a (leady, aftive current.Being now recruited and refitted, having obtaineda guide to {cl us in the great trading path forWeft Florida, early in the morning we fat off forMobile : our progrefs for about eighteen miles vv^asthrough a rnagniticent foreil, juft without or Ikirtingon the Indian plantations, frequently having aview of their diftant towns, over plains or old fields;and at evening we came to camp under Hielter of agrove of venerable fpreading oaks, on the vergeof the great plains -, their enormous limbs loadedwith Tillandfia ufneadfcites, waving in the winds;thefe Oaks were fome fhelter to us from the violenceof an extraordinary fhov/er of rain, v/hiciifuddenly came down in fuch fioods as to inundatethe earth, and kept us ftanding on our feet thewhole night, for the furface of the ground was underwater almoft till morning. Early next morning,our guide having performed his duty, tookleave.

—^gSTRAVELS INleave, returning home, and we continued on ourjourney; entering on the great plains. We had notproceeded far before our people roufed a litter ofyaung wolves, to which giving chafe, we foon caughtone of them, it being entangled in high grafs ; oneof our people caught it by the hind legs, and anotherbeat out itj brains with the but of his gun,barbarous fport! — This creature was about htlfthe fize of a fmajl cur-dog, and quite black.We continued over thefe expanfive illumined graffyplains, or native fields, about twenty miles inlength, and in width eight or nine, lying parallelto the river, which was about ten miles diilance ;t|iey are invefted by high forefts, extenfive pointsor promontories, which projecfl into the plains oneach fide, dividing them into many vaft fields openingon either hand as we pafled along, which prefentsa magnificent and pleafing fylvan landfcapeof primitive, uncultivated nature. CrofTed feveralvery confiderable creeks, their ferpentine courfesbeing diredled acrofs the plain by gently fwellingknolls perceptible at a difiance, but which feem tovanifli and difappear as we come upon them ; thecreeks were waters of the Alabama, the name ofthe Eaft arm of the Mobile below the confluence ofthe Tallapoofe. Thefe rivulets were ornamented hygroves of various trees and fhrubs, which do notipread far from their banks. I obferved amongftthem the wild Crab (Pyrus coronaria), and PrunusIndica or wild Plumb, Cornus Florida, and on thegralTy turf adjoining grev/ abundance of Strawberryvines : the furface of the plains or fields is cladwith tall grafs, intermixed with a variety of herbage.The moft confpicuous, both for beauty andnovelty, is a tall fpecies of Silphium s the radjcalleave:>

;NORTH AMERICA.^QJleaves are large, long and lightly finuated, but thofewhich garnifh the (lem are few and Ids finiiiitcdthefe leaves, with the whole plant, except the flowers,appear of a whitiih green colour, which Is owingto a fine foft filky dov/n or pubefcence i theflower ftem, which is eight or ten feet in lengthwhen ftanding eredt, terminates upwards with a longheavy fpike of large golden yellow radiated flowers; the ftem is ufually feen bov/ing on one fide orother, occafioned by the weight of the flowers, andmany of them are broken, iuft under the panicle orfpike, by their own weight, after ftorms and heavyrains, which often crack or fplit the Item, fromwhence exudes a gummy or refinous fubftance,"which the fun and air harden into fe mi -pelluciddrops or tears of a pale amber colour. This refinpoflefles a very agreeable fragrance and bitterilhtafte, fomewhat like frankincenle or turpentineit is chewed by the Indians and traders, to cleanfetheir teeth and mouth, and fweeten their breath. "The upper ftratum or vegetable mould of thefeplains is perfectly black, foapy and rich, efpeciallyafter rains, and renders the road very flippery:it lies on a deep bed of white, teftaceous, limeilonerocks, which in fome places refemble chalk, and inother places are ftrata or fubtcrrene banks of variouskinds of fea fhells, as oftrea, &c. thefe difTolvingnear the furface of the earth, and mixing withthe fuperficial mould, render it extremely produ6live.Immediately after leaving the plains we enterthe grand high forefts. There were flately trees ofthe Robinea pfeudacacia, Tilia, Morus, Ulmus^Juglans exaltata, Juglans nigra, Pyrus coronana,Cornus Florida, Cercis, &:c. Our road now forll'ver.d

539tRAVELS tTTfeveral miles led us near the Alabamaj within twoor three miles of its banks : the furface of theland is broken into hills ahd vales, fome ofthem of confiderable elevation, covered with forcftsof {lately trees, fucni as already mentioned,,but they areof a much larger grov/th than thofe ofthe fame kind which grow in theSouthern or inhabitedparts of Georgit and Caroling. We nowleft the river at a good diftance, the Alabamabearing away Southerly, and entered a vail openforeft which continued above fcventy milesj Eaftand Weft, without any confiderable variation, generallya level plain, except near the banks of creeksthat courfe through : th^ foil en the furface is a dufkybrownifh mould or fandy loam^ on a foundatioilof ftiff day; and the furface, pebbles or gravel mixedwith clay on the fummics of the ridges : the foreftsconfift chicfflv of Oak, Hiccory, AHii SourGum (NyiTa fylvatica), Sweet Gum (Liquidambnrftyraciflua), Beech, Mulberry, Scarlet Maple, Biackwalnut. Dog wood, Cornus Florida, iEfculus pavia,Prunus Indica, Ptelea, and an abundance ofChefnut (Fag. caftanea) on the Iiills, v/ith Pinus tsedaand Pinus lutea. During our progrefs over thisvaft high foreft, we croffed extenfive open plains,the foil gravelly, producing a few trees and Ihrubr.or undergrowth, which were entangled with Grapevines (Vids campeftris) of a pccuHar fpecies j thebunches (racemes) of fruit were ve;y large, as vverethe grapes that compofed them, though yet greenand not fully ^Town, but when ripe they are of variouscolours, and their juice fvvect and rich. TheIndians gather great quantities of them, which theypiepare for keeping, by firft fweating them on hurdlesover a gentle fire, and afterwards drying themen their bunches in the fun and air, and ftore theni

NORTH AMERICA.^rtrtlip for provlfion. Thefe Grape vines do not climbinto high trees, but creep along from one lowfhrub to another, extending their branches to agreat diftance .horizontally round about ; and it i-ivery pleafing to behold the chillers pendant fromthe vines, almoft touching the earth j indeed fomeof them lie upon the ground.We now entered a very remarkable grove of Dogwood trees (Corniis Florida), v/hich continucel nineor ten miles unalterable, except here and there atowering Magnolia grandiflora; the land on whichthey ftand is an exadt level : the furface a fli allow,loofe, black mould, on a ftratum of ftifF, yellowifliclay. Thefe trees v/ere about twelve feet high,fpreading horizontally ; their limbs meeting andinterlocking with each other, formed one vaft,fhady, cool grove, fo denfc and humid as toexclude the fun-beams, and prevent the intrufionof almoft every other vegetable, affordingus a moft defirable Ihelter from the fervid fimbeamsat noon-day. This admirable grove by wayof eminence has acquired the name of the I.'o^woods.During a progrefs of near feventy miles, throughthis high foreft, there conftandy prefented to viewon one hand or J/.c other, Ipacious groves of thisfine flowering tree, which muft, in the fpring feafon,whencovered with bloffoms, prefent a moft pleafingfcene ; when at the fame time a variety of otherfweet fhrubs difplay their beauty, adorned in theirgay apparel, as the Halefia, Stewartia, ^^fculus pavia,^fc. alba, JE(c. Florid, ramis divaricatis, thyrfisgrandis, flofculis expanfis incamatis. Azalea, &c.entangled with garlands of Bignonia crucigera,Bie.

400 TRAVELS TI?Big. radicans. Big, fempervirens. Glycine frute-^fcens, Lonicera, femperviren.;, &c. and at the fametime the fuperb Magnolia grandiflora, Handing mfi'ont of the dark groves,' towering far above thecomnnon level.The evening cool, we encamped on the banksof a glittering rivUiCC amidft a ipicy grove of theillicium Fioridanum,Early next morning we ai'ofe, htinted up ourhorfes and proceeded on, continuing about twentymiles, over a diftritfl which prefented to view anotherlandfcape; expanfive plains of Cane meadoAvs,and detached groves, conrrafted by fv/elling ridge?,and vales fupporting gri^nd forefts of the trees alreadynoted, ennbeliifhed with delightflil creeksand brooks, the low grounds producing very tallcanes, and the higher banks groves of the Illicium>Callicanthus, Stewarci^, Halefia, Styrax and others,particularly Magnolia auricuiata. In the eveningv*'e forded the river Schambe about fifty yardsover, the ftream zclWc but fhallow, which carriesits waters into the bay of Penfatola. Came tofcamp on the banks of a beautiful creek, by a charminggrove of the Illicium Fioridanum : from thiswe travelled over a level country above fifty milesyvery gently but perceptibly defcending South-Eaftwardbefore us : this diilricl exhibited a landfcapevery different from what had prefented to viewfince we left the Nation, and not much unlike thelow countries of Carolina ; it is in fa6l one vafhflat grafiy favanna and Cane meadows, interferedor varioudy fcrolled over with narrow forelts andgroves, on thtj banks of creeks and rivulets, orhommocks and fwamps at their fources; v;ith longleaved Pines, fcatteringly planted, amongfl the grafs jand

NORtH AMERICA, 46!!5nd on the high fandy knolls and fwelling ridges,Quercus nigra, Querciis fl;-immula, Quercus incana,with various other trees and flirubs as already notedjinhabiting fuch fituacions. The rivule?:s howeverexhibited a different appearance ;they are fliallowcr,courfe more fwiftly over gravelly beds, and theirbanks are adorned with Illiciiim groves, Magnolias,Azaleas, Halefia, Andromedas, &c. The highefthills near large creeks afford high [breRs with abundanceof Chefnut trees.We now approached the bay Mobile,gently afcendinga hilly diitrid:, being the higheft Ibreii adjoiningthe extenfive rich low lands of the river *thefe heights are fomewhan encumbered with pebbles,fragments and cliffs of rufty ferruginous rocks ;the ftones were ponderous and indicated very richiron ore j here was a fmall diftrift of good land,on the acclivities and bafes of thefe ridges, and alevel foreft beloWj watered by a fine creek, runninginto the Mobile. From hence we proceeded, againdefcending, and travelled about nine miles generallyovera level country confiftin^ of favannas. Canefwamps, and gently rifing knolls, producing Pinustsda, Nyffa fylvatica, Quercus rubra, Fagus caff?.-nea, Fraxinus, with other trees. Arrived at Taenfa,a pretty high bluff, on the Eaftern channelof the great Mobile river, about thirty miles abovefort Conde, or city of Mobile, at the head of thebay.Next day early in the morning I embarked in aboat, and proceeded for Mobile, along the banks ofiflands (near twenty miles) which lay in the middleof the river, between the Eaftern and Wefternfliores of the main: the banks of thefe low flat richiflands are well cultivated, having on them extenfive£) d farms

402 TRAVELS INfarms and fome good habitations, chiefly the propertyof French gentlemen, who refide in the city, asbeing more pkafant and healthy. Leaving thefeiflands, we continued ten or twelve miles betweenthe Eaftern main and a chain of low gralTy i(lands,too low and wet for cultivation : then crolfed overthe head of the bay, and arrived in town in the evening.The city of Mobile is fituated on the eafy afcentof a rifing bank, extending near half a mile back ontiie level plain above ; it has been near a mile inlength, though now chiefly inruins, many houfes vacantand mouldering to earth; yet there are a fewgood buildings inhabited by French gentlemen,Englifli, Scotch and Irifh, and emigrants from theNorthern Britifh colonies. Meffrs. Swanfon andM'Gillivray, who have the management of the Indiantrade carried on with the Chicafaws, Cha6laws,Uoper and Lower Creeks, &;c. have made herevery extraordinary improvements in buildings.The fort Conde, which ftands very near the bay,towards the lower end of the town, is a large regularfortrcfb of brick.The principal French buildings are conftrucledof brick, and are of one ftory, but on an extenfiveIcale, four fquare, encompaffing on three fides alarge area or court yard : the principal apartmentis on the fide fronting the ftreet j they feem infome degree to have copied after the Creek habitationin the general plan : thofe of the poorer clafsare corirrufted of aftrong frame of Cyprefs, filledin with brick, plaillered and white-walhed infideand out.July 31ft, 1778, the air being very hot and fultry,tiienivjmeter up at 07, we had exceflive thunder, andrepealled

jrifesNORTH AMERICA. 40*repeated heavy fhowers of rain,evening.from morning untiliNot having an immediate opportunity fromhence to Manchac, a Britifli fettlement on the Mlffiflipi,I endeavoured to procure a hght canoe, withwhich I defigned to purfiie my travels along flior^to the fettlements about Pearl river.Auguft 5th, fct ofi^ from Mobile up the river ina trading boat, and was landed at Taenfa blufl', thefeat of Major Farmer, to make good my engagements,in confequcnce of an invitation from thatworthy gentleman, to fpend fome days in his family: here I obtained the ufe of a light canoe tocontinue my voyage up the river. The fettlementof Taenfa is on the fite of an ancient town of atribe of Indians of that name, which is apparentfrom many artificial mounds of earth and otherruins. Befides Mr. Farmer's dwellings, there aremany others inhabited by French families, whoare chiefly his tenants. It is a moft delightful fituation,commanding a fpacious profpeft up and downthe river, and the low lands of his extenfive plantationson the oppofite fliore. In my excurfions aboutthis place, I obferved many curious vegetable productions,particularly a fpecies of Myrica (Myricainodora) : this very beautitul evergreen fhrub, whichthe French inhabitants call the Wax tree, grows inwet fandy ground about the edges of fwamps ; itere(5t nine or ten feet, dividing itfelf into amultitude of nearly ere

4^4 TRAVELS INgree of fragrance. It is In high eftimadon with theinhabitants for the produftion of wax for candles,for which purpofe it anfwers equally well withbees-wax, or preferably, as it is harder and morelaPuing in burning.Early on a fine morning I fet fail up the river,took the Eafl channel, and palTed along by wellcultivated plantations on the fertile iflands, in theriver on my left hand : thefe iflands exhibit everyfl) ow of fertility } the native produftions exceed anything 1 had ever feen, particularly the Reeds orCanes (Arundo gigantea) grow to a great heightand thicknefs.Early one morning, pafTing along by Tome olduncultivated fields, a few miles above Taenfa, Iwas ftruck with furprize at the appearance of ablooming plant, gilded with the richeft golden yellow: ftepping on fliore, I difcovered it to be a newipecies of the Oenothera (Oenothera grandiflora,caule erefto, ramofo, pilofo, 7, 8 pedali, foliisfemj-amplexi-caulibus, lanceolatis, ferratodentatis,fioribus magnis, fulgidis, feffilibus, capfulis cylindricis,4 angulis), perhaps the mofl pompous andbrilliant herbaceous plant yet known to exifb. Itis an annual or biennial, rifing ereft feven or eightfeet, branching on all fides from near the earth upwards,the lower branches extenfive, and the fucceedinggradually fliortcr to the top of the plant,forming a pyramid in figure ; the leaves are of abroad lanceolate fiiape, dentated or deeply ferrated,terminating with a fiender point, and of a deep fullgreen colour ; the large expanded flowers, that foornament this plant, are of a fplendid perfeft yellowcolour; but when they contraft again, before,they drop ofi^j the underfide of the petals next thecalyx

NORTH AMERICA. 4-0^calyx becomes of a reddifh flefli colour, inclining tovermilion, the flowers begin to open in the evening,are fully expanded during the night, and aretheir beauty next morning, but clofe and witherbefore noon. There is a daily profufe fuccelTion formany weeks, and one fingle plant at the fame inftantprefents to view many hundred flowers. Ihave meafured thefe flowers above five inches indiameter, they have an agreeable fcent.After leaving thefe fplendid fields of the goldenOenothera, I palled by old deferted plantations andhigh forefbs ; and now having advanced above tenmiles, landed at a bluff', where mooring my barkin a fafe harbour, I afcended the bank of the river,and penetrating the groves, came prefently to oldfields, where 1 obferved ruins of ancient habitations,there being abundance of Peach and Fig trees,loaded with fruit, which affording a very acceptabledefl"ert after the heats and toil of the day, and eveningdrawing on apace, I concluded to take up myquarters here for the night. The Fig trees werelarge as well as their fruit, which was then ripe,of the fliape of pears, and as large, and of a darkbluifli purple colour.Next morning I arofe early, continuing myvoyage ;pafllng by, on each hand, high forefls andrich fwamps, and frequendy ruins of ancient Frenchplantations J the Canes and Cyprefs trees of maftonifnino; magnitude, as were the trees of othertribes, indicating an excellent foil. Came to atnoon, and advancing forward from the river, andpenetrating the awful lliades, paflx^d between theftately columns of the Magnolia grandiflora, andcame to the afcents fupporting the high forells andexpanfive plains above -What a fyivan fcene isD d 3here Iin

4o6TRAVELS INhere ! the pompons Magnolia reigns fovereign ofthe forefcs Jhow fweet the r.roiTiauc lllicium groves 1how gaily flutter the radiated wings of the Magnoliaauriciilatn, -rach branch fupporting an expandedumbrella, Tuperbly creiled v/ith a filverplume, fragrant blofTom'j or crhnfon frudded fcrobileand fruits ! I recline on the "^'erdant bank,and view the. beauties of the grov "_j j^ifcuius pavia,Prunus nemoralis, fioribus racem.ofis, foiiisiempervirentibusj niddis, /Efcul'ip alba, Hydrarigiaquercifolia, Cafline, Magnolia pyramidata, foiiisovatisj (iblongisj acuminatis, bafi auriculatis, flrobilocblongo ovato, Myrica, Rhamnus frangula, Halelea,Bi'^Tf^nu. Azalea, Lonicera, Sideroxylon, withmany more.Returned to the riv^r, re-embarked, and at eveningcame to, in fight of th' confluence or junctionof the tv/o large arms of the great Mobile river, i. e.the Tomibigbe or Chicafaw with the Alabama orCoofau. About one hundred and fifty miles abovethis conflux, at Ft. Thouloufe, the Alabama receivesinto it from the Eaft the great Tai?:poofe river,v/hen the former takes the name of Coofau, whichit bears to its fource, which is in the So. Wefl promontoriesof the Cherokee or Apalachian mountainsin the Chicafaw territories.Obferved very large alligators, baflving on thefhores, as well as fwimming in the river and lagoons.Next morning entered the Tombigbe, and afcendedthat fine river. Juft within Ils Capes, onthe left hand, is a large lagoon, or capacious bayof flill water, containing many acres in furface,which at a diftant view prefents a very fingular anddiverting fcene ia delufive green wavy plain of the,, Nymph^a

NORTH AMERICA.4^7Nymphnsa Neliimbo : tlie fiirface of the water isoverfpread with its round floating leaves, wliilftthefe are fliadowed by a forcft of umbrageous leaveswith gay flowers, waving to and fro on flexibleflems, three or four feet high : thefe fine flowers aredouble as a rofe, and when expanded are fevcnor eight inches in diameter, of a lively lemon yellowcolour. The feed veflTel when ripe, is a largetruncated dry porous capfula, its plane or diflsiregularly perforated, each cell containing an ovalciTeous gland or nut, of the fize of a filbert ; whenthefe are fully grown, before they become quite hard,they are fweet and pleaiant eating, and tade likechefnuts : I fed freely on them without any injury,but found them laxative. I have obferved thisaquatic plant, in my travels along the Eaftern Iliorefof^ this continent, in the large rivers and lakes, fromNew-Jerfey to this place, particularly in a largepond or lake near Cape Fear river in North Carolina,which is about two miles ever and twelvefeet water, notwithftanding which its furface is almoftcovered with the leaves of this plant ; it alioabounds in Wakamaw lake near the fame river, andin Savanna river at Augufta, and all over EaftFlorida.Proceeding up the river, came to at a veryhigh fteep blufi-^ of red and particoloured tenaceousclay, under a deep flratum of loofe fimdy mould : afterafcending this fteep bank of the river, 1 found myfelfin an old field, and penetrating the forefl:s furrounding,obferved them to be young growth, coveringvery extenfive old plantations, which wasevident from the ridges and hillocks which oncerailed their Corn (Zea), Batatas, &c. I fuppofe thisto be the fite of an ancient fortified poft of theD d 4French,

40STRAVELS INT^rench, as there appear veftiges of a rampart an4other traces of a fortrefs ;perhaps fort Louis de laMobile ; but in all probability it will not remainlong vifible ; ths ftream of the river making dailyencroachments on it, by carrying away the land onwhich it ftood.Obferved here amongfT: other vegetable productions,a new fpecies, or at leaft a variety, of Haleiiadiptera : thefe trees are of the fize and figure ofordinary Mulberry trees, their ftems lliort, andtops regular and fpreading, and the leaves largeand broad, in fize and figure refembling thofe ofour common wild Mulberry.Oppofite this bluff, on theother fide of the river,is a diftrift of fwamp or low land, the richell 1 everfaw, or perhaps any where to be feen : as for thetrees 1 Ihall forbear to defcribe them, becaufe itwould appear incredible; let it fuffice to mention, thatthe Cyprefs, Afh, Platanus, 'Populus, Liquidambar,^nd others, are by far the talleft, ftraightell, and everyway the moft enormous that I have feen or heardof. Afid as a proof of the extraordinary fertility ofthe foil, the reeds or canes (Arundo gigantea) growhere thirty or forty feet high, and as thick as aman's arm, or three or four inches in diameter j Ifuppofe one joint of foriie of them would containabove a quart of water; and thefe reeds ferve verywell for letting poles, or mails for barks and canoes.Continued yet afcending this fine river, pafl^ingby the moii delightful and fertile fituations : obfervedfrequently, on bluffs of high land, defertedplantations, the houfes always burnt down to theground, and ancient Indian villages. But perceivinglittle varl.iLion in the natural vegetable proflydionsjthe current of the river preffing downwith

;NORTH AMERICA.4C9with increafed force and velocity, I turned about,defcending the river, and next evening came to ata large well cultivated plantation, where I lodgedall night, and the evening following returned toTaenfa.Next day I felt fynnptoms of a fever, which in afew days laid me up and became dangerous. Buta dofe of Tart. Emet. broke its violence ; and careand good attendance, after a few days, in fome de^greereflored my health, at leafl, fo far as to enableme to rove about the neighbouring foreftsiand here being informed of a certain plant of extraordinarymedical virtues, and in high eftimationwith the inhabitants, which grew in thehilly land about diirty miles higher up the river,I refolved to fet out in fearch of it, the Major beingfo polite and obliging as to furnilh me withhorfes to ride, and a Negro to pilot and take careof me.Sat off in the morning, and in the courfe of theday's journey crofled feveral creeks and brocks, oneof which fwam our horfes. On pafling by a f>\'ampat the head of a b?y or lagoon of the river, I obferveda fpecies of Cyprefb ; it differs a little fromthe white Cedar of Kew-Jerfey and Pennfylvania(Cuprefllis thyoides), the trunk is lliort and the limbsfpread hori'.ontaily, the branches fuller of leaves,and the cones larger, and of a crimfon or reddifhpurple colour when ripe.After leaving the low grounds and afcendingthe hills, difcovered the plant I went in fearch of,which I had before frequently obferved in my defcentfrom the Creek nation down towards Tasnfa.Xhis plant appears to be a fpecies of Collinfoniaic

4IOTRAVELS INit is diuretic and carminative, and efteemed apowerfiil febrifuge, an infufion of its tops is ordinarilydrank at breakfaft, and is of an exceedingpleafant tafie and flavour : when in flower, which isthe time the inhabitants gather it for prefervationand ufe, it poffeffes a lively aromatic fcent, partakingof lemon and anifced. Lodged this night ata plantation near the river, and met with civilityand good entertainment. The man and his threefons are famous hunters. I was afl:ured, from goodauthority, that the old gentleman, for his own part,kills three hundred deer annually, befides bears,tygers, and wolves, ^Next morning early, fat off again, on my return,and taking a different path back, for the fake ofvariety, though fomewhat farther about, and at agreater diftance from the banks of the river, obfervedabundance of the tall blue Sage : it growsfix or fevcn feet high ; many ftems arife from oneroot or Iburce -, thefe items are thick, woody andquadrangular, the angles obtufe : the harrow lanceolateand ferrated leaves are placed oppofite,and are fefllle, lightly embracing the branches,which terminate with ipikes of large flowers of acelefl:ial blue colour.Thefe flony gravelly heights produce a varietyof herbaceous plants, but one in particular I iliallmention on account of its fingular beauty : I beiieveit is a fpecies of Gerardea (Gerardea fiammca);it grows ere(51:, a f ngle frem from a root, three orfour feet in height, branching very regular fromabout one half its length upwards, forming a coneor pyramid, profufeiy garniilied with large tubularlabiated fcariet or flame coloured flov/ers, whichgive the plant a very fplcndid appearance, even ata great

andNORTH AMERICA.4IIa gre^it dlfliance. Returned home in the eveningfully fatisfied with the day's excurfion, from tjiedifcovery of many curious and beautiful vegetables.Having advice from Mobile of an opportunityto Manchac, although my health was not eftablifhed,feverifn fymptoms continuing to lurk about me,I refolved, notwithftanding, immediately to embracethis offer, and em.barked again, defcending the riverto the city in company with Dr. Grant, a ])hyficianof the garrifon, and late in the evening arrivedin town, having fuffered a fmart fit of thefever by the way.In the courfe of converfation with the do6lor, Iremarked that during my travels fince leaving theCreek nation, and when there, 1 had not feen anyhoney bees. He replied, that there were few ornone Weft of the Ifthmus of Florida, a'd but onehive in Mobile, which was lately broi.^giit there fromEurope, the Engliih fuppofing that liere were nonein the country, not finding any when they took poffelTionof it after the Spanifh and French. I hadbeen allured by the traders that there were none inWeft Florida, which to me feemed extraordinaryand almoft incredible, f'. .e ;hey are fo numerousall along the Eaftern condnent from Nova Scotiato Eaft Florida, even in the wild forcfts, as to bethought by the generality of the inhabitants, aboriginesof this condnent.The boat in which I had taken a pafTage to Pearlriver, not being in readinefs to depart for feveraldays to come, I fought opportunities to fill up thistime to the beft advantage polTible -, hearingof a boat going to the river Perdedo, for the purpofeof fecuring the remains of a wreck, I apprehended

412 TRAVELS IN'keephended this a favourable time to go and fearch thatcoaft, the captain civilly offering me a pafTage andbirth with him in a handfome light failing boat.Set fail early on a fine morning, and having a brifkleading breeze, came to in the evening jufl withinMobile point ; collefted a quantity of drift wood toup a light, and fmoke away the mufquitoes,and refled well on the clean fandy beach until thecool morning awoke us. We hoifted fail again,and foon doubled the point or Eaft promontory ofthe cape of the bay, ftretching out many miles andpointing towards Dauphin ifland, between whichand this cape is the fhip channel.Coafting along the fea-lhore Eaflward, we fooncame up to the wreck, which being already flrippedof her fails, &c. our captain kept on for Peniacola,where we arrived late in the evening.My arrival at this capital, at prefent the feat ofgovernment, was merely accidental and undefigned jand having left at Mobile all my papers and teftimonials,1 defigned to conceal my avocations, butmy name being made known to Dr. Lorimer, oneof the honourable council, he fent me a very politeinvitation, and requerted that he might acquaintgovernor Chefler of my arrival, who he knewwould expe6l that I fhould wait on him, and wouldbe pleafed to lee m.e. I begged to be excufed, atthis time, as the boat would fail back for Mobile in afew hours, in which I was under the necefTity of returning,or muft lofe my pafTage to the MiffifTipi ; butdurii g :his expoftulaticn, I received a letter fromMr. Livingflon the fecretary, whom I waited upon,and was received very refpe

NORTH AMERICA, 413in.g from a morning vifit to his farm a few milesfrom Penfacola. Mr. Livingfton went with me andintroduced me to the governor, who commendedmy purfuits, and invited me to continue in Weft:Florida, in refearches after fubjefts of natural hif-Cory, &c. nobly offering to bear my expences, anda refidence in his own family as long as I chofe tocontinue in the colony; very judicioufly obferving,that a complete invelligation of its natural hiftorycould not be accomplilhed in a fliort fpace of time,fmce it would require the revolution of the fcafonsto difcover and view vegetable nature in all her variousperfedlions. .The captain of our fortunate bark by this timebeing ready to fail, I took leave of his excellencythe governor, and bid adieu to my friends Dr. Lorimer,Mr. Livingfton, and others : fct fail aboutnoon on our return, and came to again within thecapes of Mobile river.Since I have hitherto given a fuperficial accountof the towns, ports, improvements and other remarkableproduftions of nature, and human artsand induftry, during the courfe of my peregrination,I fhali not pafs by Penfacola and its environs.This city commands fome natural advantages, fuperiorto any other port in this province, in pointof naval commerce, and fuch as human art andftrength can never fupply. It is delightfully fituatedupon gentle rifing afcents environing a fpaciousharbour, fafe and capacious enough to fheker all thenavies of Europe, and excellent ground for anchorage;the Weft end of St. Rofe ifland ftretches acrofsthe great bay St. Maria Galves, and its South-Weflprojecting point forms the harbour of Penfacola,which.

*jt4TRAVELS INwhich, with the road or entrance, is defended by ^block-houfe built on the extremity of that point,which at the fanne time ferves the piirpofe of afortrcfs and look-out tower. There are feveralrivers which run into this great bay from the continent,but none of them navigable for large craft,to any confiderable diftance into the country : theShambe is the largeft, which admits fliallops fomemiles up, and perriauguas upwards of fifty miles.There are fome fpots of good high land, and richfwamps, favourable for the produftion of rice onthe banks of this river, Vi^hich have given rife tofome plantations producing Indigo, Rice, Corn,Batatas, &c. Thefe rivers dividing and fpreadingabroad their numerous branches, over the expaniiveflat low country (between the two greatriyers Apalachuia and Mobile), which confifts oflavannas and cane meadows, fill them with brooksand water courfes, and render them exuberantpafture for cattle.There are feveral hundred habitations in Penfacola: the governor's palace is a large ftone buildingornamented witii a tower, built by the Spaniards.The town is defended by a large ftockadofortrefs, the plan a tetragon with falient angles ateach corner^ where is a block-houfe or roundtower, one ftery higher than the curtains, where arelight cannon mounted : it is conftrufted of wood.Vv'ithin this fortrefs is the council chamber ; here therecords are kept, houfes for the officers, and barracksfor the accommodation of the garrifon, arfenal,magazine, &c. The fecretary refides in a Ipacious,neat building : there are feveral merchants andgentlemen of other profefllons, who have refpedlableand convenient buildings in the town.I , There

fJORTH AMERICA* 4!^There were growing on the fand hills, environingPenfacola, feveral curious non-delcribed plants jparticularly one of the verticillate order, abouteighteen inches in height : the flowers, which formedloofe fpikes, were large and of a fine fcarlcccolour ;but not having time to examine the fru6lification,or colled good fpecimens, I am ignorantof what order or genus it belongs to. And inthe level wet favannas grew plentifully a new andvery elegant fpecies of Saracinia (Saracinia lacunofa); the leaves of this plant, which are twelve orfourteen inches in length, ftand nearly ereft, arcround, tubular and ventricofe—but not ridged withlongitudinal angles or prominent nerves, as theleaves of the Saracinia flava are ; the aperture attop may be fliut up by a cap or lid, of a helmetform, which is an appendage of the leaf, turningover the orifice in that lingular manner ; the ventricofe,or inflated part of the leaf, which is of a pale,but vivid green colour, is beautifully ornamentedwith rofe coloured ftuds or blifters, and the innerfurface curioufly infcribed, or variegated, with crimfonveins or fibres.It was paft the time for flowering,but the plant in any fituation is a very greatcuriofity.Next morning early we arofe from our hardfandy fea-beaten couch, being difl:urbed the wholenight by the troublefome mufquitoes ; (et fail, andbefore night returned fafe to the city of Mobile.CHAP.

;41^TRAVELS fMCHAP.VILThe next day after my return to Mobile, Ifound myfelf very ill, and not a little alarmed byan excefTive pain in my head, attended with a highfever j this diforder foon fettled in my eyes, naturepurfuing that way to expel the malady, caufing amoft painful defluxion of pellucid, corrofive waternotwithftanding, I next day fet off on board a largetrading boat, the property of a French gentleman^and commanded by him (he being general interpreterfor the Chadaw nation), on his return to hisplantations, on the banks of Pearl river : our barkwas large, well equipped for failing, and mannedwith three ftout Negroes, to row in cafe of neceffity.We embarked in the evening, and came toabout fix miles below the town, at a pleafant farm,tlie mailer of which (who was a Frenchman) entertainedus in a very polite and friendly manner.The wind favourable, next morning early we fetfail again, and having made extraordinary way,about noon came up abreaft of a high fteep bluff,or perpendicular cliff of high land, touching onthe bay of the Wefl coafl, where we went on fhore,to give liberty to the flaves to reft and refrefhthemfelves. In the mean time I accompanied thecaptain on an excurfion into the fpacious levelforefts, which fpread abroad from the fhore to agreat diflance back ; obferved veftiges of an ancientfortrefs and fettlement, and there yet remain afew pieces of iron cannon ; but what principallyattracted my notice, was three vaft iron pots or kettles^each of many hundred gallons contents : uponinquiry.

NORTH AMERICA. 41-7inquiry, my aflbciate informed me they were forthe purpofe of boiUng tar to pitch, there bciiiLTvafl: fortfts of Pine trees in the vicinity of this place.In Carohna the inhabitants purfue a different methodiwhen they dcfign to make pitch, theydig large holes in the ground, near the tarkiln, which they line with a thick coat of goodClay, into which they condudl a fufficienc quantityof tar, and fet it on f re, fuffcring it to flame andevaporate a length of time fufficient to convert itinto pitch, and when cool, lade it into barrels, andfo on until they have confumed all the tar, or madea fufficient quantity of pitch for their purpofe.After re-imbarking, and leaving this bluff a fewmiles, we put into fhore again, and came to afarm houfe, a little diftance from the water, wherewe fupplied ourfelves with Corn meal. Batatas,bacon, &:c. The French gentleman (proprietor- ofthe plantation) was near eighty years old, his hairalmoil white with age, yet he appeared adtive,ftrong and mufcularj and his mother who was prefent,was one hundred and five years old, aftiveand cheerful, her eyes feemed as brifk and fparklingas youth, but fhe was of a diminutive fize, nothalf the ftature and vveidit of her fon : it was nowabove fifty years fince fhe can^e into America fromold France.I embarked again, proceeding down the bay,and in the evening doubled the weft point or cape ofthe bay, being a promontory of the main, betweenwhich and Dauphin illand, we entered the channelOleron. From this time, until we arrived at this gentleman'shabitation on Pearl river, I was incapableof making any obfervations, for my eyes could notbear the light, as the leaft ray admitted feemedE eas

;4-1 S TRAVELS INas the piercing of a fword : and by the time I hadarrived at Pearl river, the excruciating pain hadrendered me almoft frantic and ftupified for wantof fleep, of which I was totally deprived ; and thecorroding water, every few minutes, ftreaming frommy eyes, had ftripped the fkin off my face, in thefame manner as fcalding water would have done.I continued three days with this friendly Frenchman,who tried every remedy, that he or his family couldrccoUeft, to adminifter relief, but to no purpofe.My fituation was now become dangerous, and Iexpefted to fink under the malady, as I believe myfriends here did. At laft the man informed me, thaton Pearl ifland, about twelve miles diftance, refidedan Englifh gentleman, who had a variety of medicines,and if I chofe to go to him he would takeme there. I accordingly bid adieu to this hofpitablefamily, and fet off with him in a convenientboat ; before night arrived at Mr. Rumfey's, whoreceived me kindly, and treated me with the utmoflhumanity, during a ftay of four or five weeks. Thenight however after my arrival here I fincerelythought would be my laft, and my torments werefo extreme as to defire it : having furvived thistedious night, I in fome degree recovered myfenfes, and afked Mr. Rumfey if he had any Cantharides; he foon prepared a bliftering plaifter for me^which I direded to be placed betwixt my fhouldersthis produced the defired relief, and more than anfweredmy expeftation, for it had not been therea quarter of an hour before I fell afleep, and remainedfo a whole day, when I awoke intirely relievedfrom pain, my fenfes in perfed harmony andmind compofed. I do n6t know how to exprefsmyfclf on this occafion ; all was peace and tranquillity:although 1 had ray fight itnperfedly, yet mybody

;NORTH AMERICA.4T9body feemed but as a light fhadow, and my exiftcnccas a pleafing delirium, for I fometimes doubtedof its reality. I however from that moment beganto mend, until my health was perfeflly reftoredbut it was feveral weeks before I could expofe myeyes to open day light, and at laft I found my lefteye confiderably injured, which fuffcred the greateftpain and weight of the difcafe.As foon as I acquired flrength to walk about, andbear the leaft impreffion of open day light on myeyes, I made frequent, indeed I may fay daily excurfionsin and about this ifland, ftrolling throughits awful fhades, venerable groves and fubiime forefts,confifting of the Live Oaks and Magnoliagrandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Olea Americana,Fagus fylvatica, Laur. Saflafras, Quercus hemifpherica,Tilia, Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Morus,Gleditfia, Callicarpa, Halefia, &:c.The ifland is fix or feven miles in lengrh, andfour or five in width, including the fait marllies andplains, which invefl: it on every fide, I believe wemay only except a narrow (Irand at the South endof it, waflied by Lake Borgone at the ReguUets,which is a promontory compofed of banks of feafhellsand fand caft up by the force of winds, andthe furf of the Lake ; thefe fliells are chiefly a fmallfpecies of white clam flielis, called les coquilles.Here are a few flirubs growing on thefe Ihellyheights, viz. Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, Myrica,Zanthoxylon clava Herculis^ Juniperus Americana,Lyfium faifum j together with feveral newgenera and fpecies of the herbaceous, and fuffruticofetribes, Croton, Stillingia, &c. but particularlya fpecies of Mimofa (Mimofa virgata), which inrefpedt of the elegancy of its pinnated leaves, can-E e 2rot

the4^0 TRAVELS Ilfnot be exceeded by any of that celebrated family.It is a perennial plant, fending up many nearlycreft ftems from the root or fource ; thefe dividethemfelves into many afcendant flender rods likebranches, which are ornamented with double pinnatedleaves, of a mofl delicate formation. Thecompound flowers, are of a pale, greeni(h yellow,collefted together in a fmall oblong head, upon along flender peduncle, the legumes are large, lunatedand flat, placed in a fpiral or contorted manner,each containing feverai hard compreflTed feeds©r little beans.The interior and by far the greater part of theifland conflfts of high land -, foil to appearancea heap of fea land in fome places, with an admixtureof fea fliells ; this foil, notwithftanding its fandyand fteril appearance, when divefl:ed of its naturalvegetative attire, has, from what caufe I know not,a condnual refource of fertility within itfelf: thefurfiice of the earth, after being cleared of its originalvegetable produ6lions, expofed a few feafonsto the fun, winds, and triturations of agriculture,appears fcarcely any thing but heaps of white fand,yet it produces Corn (Zea), Indigo, Batatas, Beans,Peas, Cotton, Tobacco, and almofl; every fort ofefculent vegetable, in a degree of luxuriancy veryfurprizing and unexpe6led, year after year, inceffandy,without- any addition of artificial manure orcompoft: r-lhere is indeed a foundation of Ilrongadhffive clay, confifting of ftrata of various colours,which I difcovered.by examining a well, lately dugin Mr. Rumfey's^yard ; but lying at a great depthunder the furface, the roots of fmall (hrubs andherbage, cannot reach near to it, or receive any"b&fit,. unlefs we may fuppofe, that afcending>w" 5-_ fumes

NORTH AMERICA.^21fumes or exlialations, from this bed of clay, mayhavea vivific nutritive quahty, and be received bythe fibres of the roots, or being condenfed in theatmofphere by nocturnal chills, fall with dews uponthe leaves and twigs of thefe plants, and tliere abforbed,become nutritive or exhilerating to them.Befides the nativeforeft trees and flirubs alreadynoted, manured fruit trees arrive in this ifland tothe utmoft degree of perfeftion, as Pears, Peaches,Figs, Grape Vines, Plumbs, &c. ; of the lad mentionedgenus, there is a native fpecies grows in thisidand, which pi'oduces its large oblong crimfonfruit in prodigious abundance ; the fruit, though ofa mofl enticing appearance, is rather too tart, yetagreeable eating, at fultry noon, in this burningclimate ; it affords a moft delicious and revivingmarmalade, w4ien prefervcd in fugar, and makesexcellent tarts ; the tree grows about twelve f

422 TRAVELS INihoxylon, Myrica and Rham. frangula. We cameto in a little bay, kindled a fire, and after fupperbetook ourfelves to repofe ; our fituation open, airyand cool, on clean fand banks ; we refted quietly,though fometimes roufed by alarms from the crocodiles,which are here in great numbers, and ofan enormous bulk and ftrength.Next day early we got under way, purfuing ourformer courfe, nearly Weftward, keeping the Northfhore feveral leagues. Immediately back of thishigh fandy ftrand, (which is caft up by the beatingfurf and winds, fetting from feaward, acrofs thewideft part of the lake) the ground fuddenly falls,and becomes extenfive flat Cyprefs fwamps, thefources of creeks and rivers, which run into thelake, or Pearl River, or other places; the highforelts of the main now gradually approaching thelake, advance up to the very fhore, where we findhoufes, plantations and new fettlements : we cameto at one of them charmingly fituated, fet fail again,and came up to the mouth of thebeautiful Taen-of In-fapaoa, which takes that name from a nationdians, who formerly poffefled the territories lying onits banks, which are fertile and delightful regions.This river is narrow at its entrance, but deep, andfaid to be navigable for large barks and perriauguajupwards of fifty miles : j\ift widiin its capes, onthe leeward fhore, are heights, or a group of lowhills (compofed of the fmall clam fliells, called lescoquilles), which gradually deprefs as we retreatback from the river, and the furface of the land ismore level; thefe fliells diflblving and mixing withthe furface, render the vegetative mould black,rich, and produ(5live. Here are a few habitadons,and feme fields cleared and culdvated; but theinhabitants

NORTH AMERICA. 423inhabitants neglect agriculture, and generally employthemfelves in hunting and fifhing : we howeverfurnifhed ourfelves here with a fufficiency of excellentBatatas. I obferved no new vegetable produdlions,except a fpecies of Cleome (Cleonie lupinifolia); this plant polTefles a very llrong fcent,fomewhat like Gum Aflafetida, notwithlVandingwhich the inhabitants give it a place in Ibups andfauces.From Taenfapaoa, we flill coafled Weftward,three or four miles, to the ftraits that communicatewith the lake Maurepas ; entering which and continuingfix or eight miles, liaving low fwanipy land oneach fide, the channel divides, forming an ifland in themiddle of the pafs : we took the right hand channel,which continues three or four miles, when the channelsreunite in full view of the charming lake. Wccame to at an elevated point, or promontory, on theftarboard main fhore, it being the North cape, fromwhence I enjoyed a very pleafing and complete viewof the beautiful lake Maurepas j entering whichnext morning, a fteady favourable gale foon waftedus nine or ten miles over to the mouth of the riverAmite ; afcended between its low banks ; the landon each fide a level Iwamp, about two feet abovethe furface of the water, fupporting a thick foreftof trees, confiding chiefly of Fraxinus, Nyfla aquatica,Nyfla multiflora, Cuprefliis difl:icha, Quercusphillos, Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Acer glaucum,Sambucus, Laurus Borbonia, Carpinus, Ulmus, andothers. The foil or earth humid, black and rich.There is fcarcely a perceptible current : the waterdark, deep, turgid and llagnate, being from Ihoreto fliore covered with a fcum or pellicle of a greenand purplifh cafl:, and perpetually throwing u[^E c 4fioiii

4^4TRAVELS INfrom the muddy bottom to its furface minute airbladders or bubbles : in ihort, thefe dark loathfomewaters, from every appearance, feem to be a ftrongextract or tin6lure of the leaves of the trees, herbsand reeds, arifing from the Ihores, and which almoftoverfJDread them, and float on the furface, infomuchthat a great part of thefe ftagnate rivers,dui ing thefummer and autumnal feafons, are conftrained topafs under a load of grafs and weeds ; which arecontinually vegetating and fpreading over the furfacefrom the banks, until the rifing floods of winterand fpring, rufliing down from the main, fweepthem away, and purify the waters. Late in theevening we difcovered a narrow ridge of land clofeto the river bank, high and dry enough to fuffer usto kindle a Are, and fpace fufficient to fpread ourbedding on. But here, fire and fmoke were infufiicientto expel the hofts of mufquitoes that invertedour camp, and kept us awake during the long andtedious night, fo that the alligators had no chanceof taking us napping. We were glad to rife earlyin the morning, proceeding up the Amite. Theland now gradually rifes, the banks become higher,the foil drier and firmer four or five feet above thefurface of the river; the trees are of an incrediblemagnitude, particularly Plataniis occidentalis, Fraxinus,Ulmus, Quercus hemifpherica, &:c. TheCanna Indica grows here in furprifmg luxuriance,prefenting a glorious Ihow ; the ftem rifes fix, fevenand nine feet high, terminating upwards with fpikesof fcarlet flowers.Now having advanced near thirty miles up theAmite, we arrived at a very large plantation, theproperty of aScotch gentleman, who received mewith

NORTH AMERICA.^^rwith civility, entreating me to refide with him ; butbeing impatient to get to the river, and pleadingthe neceffity of profecuting my travels with alacrity,on account of the feafon being fo fi\r advanced, Iwas permitted to proceed, and fet off next morning.Still afcending the Amite nbout twenty milesfarther, arrived at the forks, where the Ibervillecomes in on the left hand, afcending which a littleway, we foon came to tlie landing, where arc warehoufesfor depofiting merchandize, this being the extremityof navigation up this canal, and here fmallveflels load and unload. From this place to Manchac,on the banks of the MilTiffippi, juft above themouth of the canal, is nine miles by land ; theroad ftraight, fpacious, and perfeftly level, under thefhadow of a grand foreft ; the trees of the firft orderin magnitude and beautv, as Magnolia orrandiflora,Liriodendron tulipifcra, Platanus, Juglansnigra, Fraxinus excelfior. Moms rubra, Laurusfaffafras, I.aurus Borbonia, Tilea, Liquidambarftytaciflua,Sec.At evening arrived at Manchac, when I dircfledmy fteps to the banks of the MilTilTippi, where I (loodfor a time as it were fafcinated by the magnificenceof the great fire * of rivers.The depth of the river here, even in this feafon,at its lowed ebb, is aftonifliing, not lefs than fortyfathoms; and the width about a mnle or fomewhaclefs : but it is not expanfion of furface alone thatflrikes us with ideas of magnificence ; the altitudeand theatrical afcents of ics penfile banks, thi^ fteadycourfe of the mighty flood, the trees, high forefls,even every particular objecl,as well as focie-* Which is the meaning of the word Mifliflippi.ties,

4^6TRAVELS INties, bear the flamp of fuperiority and excellence ;all unite or combine in exhibiting a profpeft of thegrand fublime. The banks of the river at Manchac,though frequently overflowed by the vernal inundations,are about fifty feet perpendicular height abovethe furface of the water (by which the channel atthofe times nnufb be about two hundred and ninetyfeet deep) j and thefe precipices being an accumu-Jation of the fediment of muddy waters, annuallybrought down with the floods, of a light loamy confiftence,continually cracking and parting, prefent toview deep yawning chafms, in time fplit ofF, as theadiive perpetual current undermines, and the mightyniaflTes of earth tumble headlong into the river,whofe impetuous current fweeps away and lodgesiliem elfewhere. There are yet vifible fome remainsof a high artificial bank, in front of the buildings ofthe town, formerly caft: up by the French, to refiftthe inundations, but found to be ineffectual, andnow in part tumbled down the precipice : as theriver daily encroaches on the bluff, fome of the habitationsare in danger, and muft be very foon removedor fwallowed up in the deep gulph of waters.A few of the buildings that have been eflabUfhedby the Englilh, fince taking poffeffion of the colony,are large and commodious, particularly thewarehoufes of iVIeffrs. Swanfon & Co. Indian tradersand merchants.The Spaniards have a fmall fortrefs and garrifonon the point of land below the Iberville, clofe bythe banks of the river, which has a communicationwith Manchac, by a (lender narrow woodenbridge acrofs the channel of Iberville, fupported onwooden pillars, and not a bow fliot fiom the habitationsof Manchac. The Iberville in the fummerfeafoa

;NORTH AMERICA.^27fcafon Is dry, and its bed twelve or fifteen feet abovethe furfacc of the Mifliflippi ; but in the winterand fpring has a great depth of water, and a veryrapiddream which flows into the Amite, thencedown through the lakes into the bay of Pearls tothe ocean.Having recommendations to the inhabitants ofBatonrouge, now called New-Richmond, more thanforty miles higher up the river, one of thefe gendemenbeing prefent at Manchac, gave me a friendlyand polite invitation to accompany him on his returnhome. A pleafant morning ; we fat off afterbreakfaft, well accommodated in a handfome convenientboat, rowed by three blacks. Two milesabove Manchac we put into fliore at Alabama: thisIndian village is delightfully fituated on feveralfwelling green hills, gradually afcending from theverge of the river : the people are a remnant ofthe ancient Alabama nation, who inhabited theEaft arm of the great Mobile river, which bear!>their name to this day, now poflefled by the Creeksor Mufcogulges, who conquered the fornrier.My friend having purchafed fome bafkets andearthen -ware, the manufactures of the people, weleft the village, and proceeding twelve miles higherup the river, landed again at a very large and wtUcultivated plantation, where we lodged all night.Obferved growing in a fpacious garden adjacent tothe houfe, many ufeful as well as curious exotics,particularly the delicate and fweet Tube-rofe (Polyanthustuberofa) : it grows here in the open gardenthe flowers were very large and abundant on theftems, which were five, fix or fcven feet high, bi;ci faw none here having double flowers. In one cornerof the garden was a pond or marfli, roujul aboutwliich

428 \ TRAVELS INwhich gfjcw luxuriantly tlie Scotch grafs (Panicumhirtellum^vgramen paniciim maximum, ipica diviia,ariftis armaturii, Sloan, Jam. Cat. p. 30): the peo-- pie introduced, this valuable grafs from the Well-India iflands : "they mow or reap it at any time, andfeed it green to -,gov/s or horfes ; it is nouriihingfood for all catde. The Humble plant (Mimofapudica) grows here.five or fix feet high, ramblinglike Brier vines over the fences and flirubs, allabout the garden. "iThe people here fay it is an indigenousplant, but. this I doubt, as it is not i'licngrowing wild in the foreils and fields, and it differsin no refpeft from that which we protect in greenhoufes and fcoves, except in the extent and luxuriancyof its branches, which may be ov.'ing to theproduflive virgin mould and temperature of theclimate. They however pay no attention to itsculture, but rather condemn it as a noxious troublefomeweed, for wherever it gets footing, itfpreads itfeif by its feed in fo great abundance asto opprefs and even extirpate more ufcful vegetables.Next day we likewife vifited feveral delightfuland fpacious plantations on the banks of the river,during our progrefs upwards : in die evening arrivedat my friend's habitation, a very delightfulvilla, v/ith extenfive plantations of Corn (Zea), In*digo, Cotton and fome Rice.A day or two after our arrival we agreed upona vifit to Point Coupe, a flourifhing French fettle--incnt on tiie Spanifh lliore of the Mirnnippi.Early next morning we fet off in a neat Cyprefsboat v.'ith three oars, proceeding up die river i andbv niiiUc got to a large plantation near the Whitecliif;.

NORTH AMERICA.^20cliffs, now called Brown's cliffs, in honour of thelate governor of Weft Florida, now of the BahannaIflands, who is proprietor of a large diftriiilof country, lying on and adjacent to the Clifls.At the time of my refidence with Mr. Rumfeyat Pearl idand, governor Brown, then on his paffageto his government of the Bahamas, paid Mr.Rumfey a vifit, who politely introduced me tohis excellency, acquainting him with my chara(5terand purfuits : he defired me to explore his territory,and give him my opinion of the quality of theWiiite plains.Auguft 27th, 1777, having in rcadinefs horfeswell equipt, early in the morning we let off for theplains. About a mile from the river we ciolfcd adeep gully and fmall rivulet, then immediately enteredthe Cane forefts, following a ftraight avenuecut through them, off from the river, which continuedabout eight miles, the ground gradually butimperceptibly rifing before us : when at once openedto view expanfive plains, which are a range of nativegraffy fields of many miles extent, lying parallelwith the river, furrounded and interfecfled with Canebrakes and high forefts of flately trees ; the foilblack, extremely rich and produfbive, but the virginmould becomes thinner and lefs fertile as itverges on to the plains, which are fo barren asfcarcely to produce a bufh or even grali, in the middleor higheft parts. The upper flratum or furfaccof the earth is a whitiili clay or chalk, with veins offea Ihells, chiefly of thofe little clams called ies coquiiles,or interfpcrfed with the white earth or clay,fo tenacious and hard as to render it quite fteriljfcarcely any vegetable growth to be feen, exceptfhort grafs, or cruftaceous molfes ; and fome placesquite bare, where it is on die lurface ; but where itlies

43» TRAVELS iJflies from eighteen inches to two or three feet be^low, it has the virtue of fertilizing the virginmould above, rendering it black, humid, foapy,and incredibly produftive.I obferved two or three fcrubby Pine trees orrather dwarf bulhes, upon the higheft ridge ofthefe plains, which are viewed here as a curiofity,there being no Pine forefts within feveral leaguesdiftance from the banks of this great river, but, onthe contrary, feemingly an cndlefs wildernefs ofCanes, and the moft magnificent forells of thetrees already noted, but particularly Platanuspccidentalis, Liriodendron, Magnolia grandiflora,Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Juglans nigra, Juglanscxaltata, Tilea, Morus rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus,Laurus Borbonia, and Laurus faflafras ; thislaft grows here to a vaft tree, forty or fifty feetftraight trunk j its timber is found to be ufeful,fawn into boards and fcantling, or hewn intopods for building and fencing.On the more fertile borders of the plains, adjoiningthe furrounding forefts, are Sideroxylon,Pyrus Goronaria, and Strawberry vines (Fragaria)but no fruit on them ; the inhabitants afluredme they bore fruit in their feafon, very large,of a fine red colour, delicious and fragrant.Having made our tour and obfervations on theWhite plains, we returned to the river at the clofeof the day, and next morning fat off for Point Coupe: pafled under the high painted cliffs, and thenfet our courfe acrofs the Miffiffippi, which is herenear two miles over : touched at a large ifland nearthe middle of the river, being led there, a little outof

andNORTH AMERICA. ^ -j Iof our way, in purfuit of a bear crofllng from themain, but he out-fwam us, reached the illand,and made a fafe retreat in the forefts entangledwith vines ; we however purfued him on lliore,but to no purpofe. After refting a while, we recmbarkedand continued on our voyage, coaftingthe Eaft fhore of the ifland to the upper end ; herewe landed again, on an extended projcding point,of clean fand and pebbles, where were to be fecapieces of coal (licking in the gravel and fand, togethervvith other fragments of the folfil kingdom,brought down by inundations and lodgedthere. We obfervcd a large kind of mufcle in thefand ; the fhell of an oval form, having horns orprotuberances near half an inch in length and asthick as a crow quill, which I fuppofe lerve thepurpole of grapnels to hold their ground againftthe violence of the current. Here were great numbersof wild fowl wading in the flioal water thatcovers the fandy points, to a vaft diHance fromthe Ihores : they were geefe, brant, gannet, andthe great and beautiful whocping crane (grus alber).Embarked again, doubled the point of theilland and arrived at Point Coupe inthe evening.We made our vifit to a French gentleman, anancient man and wealthy planter, who, accordingto the hiftory he favoured us with of his own lifeand adventures, muft have been very aged j hishair was of a filky white, yet his complexion wasflorid and conftitucion athletic. He faid that foonafter he came to America, with many families ofhis countrymen, they alcended the river to theCliffs of the Natches, where they fat down, beingentertained by the natives -, under cover of aftrong fortrefs and ganifon, eftabliflied a fettlement,and by cultivating the land and formingplan-

;432 TRAVELS INplantations, in league and friendfhip with the Indians,in a few years they became a populous,rich and growing colony; when through the imprudentand tyrannical conduft of the commandanttowards the Natches, the ancients of thecountry, a very powerful and civilized nation ofred men, who were fovcreigns of the foil, andpofiefied the country round about them, they becametired of thefe comers, and exafperated attheir cruelty and licentioufnefs, at length determiningto revenge themfelves of fuch inhumanityand ingratitude, fccretly confpired their deftruction; and their meafures were fo well concertedwith other Indian tribes, that if it had not beenfor the treachery of one of their princelTes, withwhom the commander v/as in favour (for by herinfluence her nation attempted the deftrudtion ofthe fettlement, before their auxiliaries joined them,which afforded an opportunity for fome few ofthe fettlers to efcape), they would have fully accomplilhedtheir purpofe. However the fettlementwas entirely broken up, moft of the inhabitantsbeing flaughtered in one night, and the fewwho efcaped betook themJelves to their canoes,defcending the river until they arrived at thisplace, whf re they eftablifhed themfelves againand this gentleman had only time and opportunityto take into his boat one heifer calf, which heaiTured us was the mother of the numerous herdshe now polTefTes, confiding of many hundred head.Here is now a very relpedable village, defendedby a ftrong fortrefs and gaa-ifon of Spaniards,the commander beinn; o;overnor of the diflricfb.The French here are able, ingenious and induftriousplanters : they live eafy and plentifully,and are far more regular and commendable in tiieenjoy-

NORTH AMERICA.4JJtnjoymcnt of their earnings than their ncighbinirsthe Englifli: their drefs of their own manufactures,well wrought and neatly made up, yet notextravagant or foppifh ; manners and converfationeafy, moral and entertaining.Next morning we fat off again on our returnhome, and called by the way at the Cliffs, whichis a perpendicular bank or bluff, rifing up out of*the river near one hundred feet above the prefcncSurface of the water, whofc active current fvvcepsalong by it. From eight or nine feet below theloamy vegetative mould at top, to within four orfive feet of the water, thefe cliffs prefent to viewftrata of clay, marie and chalk, of all colours, asbrown, red, yellow, white, blue and purple ; thereare feparate ilrata of thefe various colours, as wellas mixed or particoloured : the loweft flratumnext the water is exaftly of the fmie black mudor rich foil as the adjacent low Cyprefs fwamps,above and below the bluff; and here in the cliffswc fee vaft ftum.ps of Cyprefs and other trees,which at this day grow in thefe lov;, wet fwamps,and which range on a level with them. Thefeftumps are found, ftand upright, and feem to berotted off about two or three feet above the fpreadof their roots itheir trunks, limbs. Sec. lie in alldirections^ about them. But when thefe fwampyforefts were growing, and by what caufe theywere cut off and overwhelmed by the variousftrata of earth, v/hich now rife near one hundredfeet above, at the brink of the cliffs, and two orthree times that height but a few hundred ycrclsback, are enquiries perhaps not eafily anfwered.The fwelling heights rifing gradually over andbeyond this precipice are now adorned Witii highforefls of ftatcly Magnolia, Liquidambar, Fagus,t F f- Quercus

434 TRAVELS IN"Quercus, Lairrus, Morus, Jnglans, Tilia, Haiefia,iEfcLilus, Callicarpa, L iriodenciron, &c»Arrived in the evening at the plantation belowthe Cliffs, and the next day got fafe back to myfriend's habitation.Obferved few vegetable produdions differentfrom what grow in Carolina and Georgia j perhapsin the fpring and early fumnner feafon, heremay be Tome new plants, particularly in the highforefts and ridges, at fome diftance from die river: there is however growing in the rich highlands, near on the banks cf the river, which I ob- 'fcrved in the fettlement of Baton Rouge, an arborefcentaromatic vine, which mounts to the topsof the higheft trees, by twilling or writhing fpirallyround them ; fome of thcfe vines are asthick as a man's leg, of a fofc fpungy texture,and flexible, covered with a Cinnamon colouredbark, v/hich is highly aromatic or fpicy. Thelarge oblong leaves fit oppofite on the branches,ajid are of a full deep green colour j but its feafonof flowering being pafl:, and the feed fcattered,I am entirely ignorant to v/hat genus it belongs;perhaps it is a non-defcript or new genus-Here is likewife a new and beautiful ipecies ofV'erbena, v/ith decumbent branches and lacerateddeep green leaves ; the branches terminatewith corymbi of violet blue flowers : this prettyplant grows in old fields where there is a goodfoil.The fevere diforder in my eyes fubvcrtcd theplan of my peregrinations, and contrafted tli^:fpan of my pilgrimage South-Wefl:ward. Thisdilappointment afi'efted me very fenfibly, but reiignacionand reafon refuming their empire o\'cr

NORTH AMERICA.43^my mind, I fubmitted, and determined to returnto Carolina.Receiving information that the company'sfchooner was ready to fail for Mobile, I embarkedon board a trading boat for Manchac, where arrivingin the evening, I took leave next morningof MefTrs. Swanfon and Co. and fet off for theforks of the Amite, and next day fat fail, defcendingthe tardy current of the Aaiite. Obfervingtwo bears croffing the river a-head,though our pieces were ready charged, and theyawl along fide to receive us, we purfucd them invain, they fwam fwifdy acrofs, and efcaped inthe forefts on the ifland of Orleans. The brerzedying away at evening, we came to anchor, andhad variety of amufements at fiftiins; and fowlin":-Next day, November i^di, 1777, with a flcadyleading breeze, entered and failed over the lakeMaurepas, and through the ftreights into thePontchartrain, and continued under fail ; but atmidnight, by keeping too near the Weft fiiore,we ran aground en a fand-bar, where we laybeating the hard fandy bottom until morning,and our yawl parting from us in the night, whichwe never recovered, we were left to the mercy ofthe winds and floods j but before noon the windcoming brifkly from North-Eaft, driving the feainto the lake, we got off, made fail again, andbefore night paffed through the Reguliets, enteringthe ocean through the bay of Pearls, fail-'ing through the found betwixt Cat ifl md and theftrand of the continent jpaffing by the beautifjlbay St. Louis, into which defcend many delightfulrivers, which flow from the lower or maritimefettlements of the Chadaws or Fiatheads. Continuingthrough the found betv/een the oyfteirF f 2banks

'Georgia,;43^TRAVELS INbanks and ihoals of Ship and Horn iflands, andthe high and bold coaft of Biloxi on the main,got through the narrow pafs Aux Chriftians, andfoon came up abreafl: of Ille Dauphin, betwixtwhofe Hioals and the Weft Cape of Mobile Baywe got aground on fonne funken oyfter banksbut next day a brilk Southerly wind raifcd thefea on the coaft, which lifted us off again, andfetting fail, we ftiot through the Pafs au Oleron,•cind entering the bay, by night came to anchorfafe again at the city of Mobile.After having made up my colle6lions of growingroots, feeds and curious fpecimens, left themto the care of MelTrs. Swanfon and M'Gillavry,to be forwarded to Dr. Fothergill of London. Iprepared to fet off again to Augufta in Georgia,through the Creek Nation, the only prafticabieVv'ay of returning by land, being fruftrated ofpurfuing my intended rout which I had meditated,throuofli the territories of the Siminoles orLower Creeks, they being a treacherous people,Ivinp- fo far from the eve and controul of the nationwith whom they are confederate, that therehad lately been depredations and murders committedby them at the bay of Apalache, on fomefamiTies of white people who v/ere migraiing from'with an intention of fetding on theMobile. Having to pals the diftance of neartwo hundred miles to the firft town of the nation,through a f^litary, uninhabited wildernef;,'the bloody field of Schambe, where thofe conrendingbands of American bravos. Creeks andCha

NORTH AMERICA.j^^fObferved growing in a garden in Mobile, twolarge trees of the Juglans pecan, and the Diolcoreabulbifera : this laft curious phint bears alarge kidney fliaped root, one, two or three atthe bofom of the leaves, feveral feet from theground, as they cHmb up poles or fupports fcc bytheir roots j thefe roots when boiled or roaftedare efteemed a pleafant wholefome food, and taftelike the ordinary Yam.Ff3CHAP.

43 S TRAVELS mCHAP. VIILNovember ijth, 1777, fat ofF from Mobikjin a large boat with the prinGipal trader of thecompany, and at evening arrived at Taenfa, wherewere the pack-horfemen with the merchandize;,and next morning as foon as we had our horfesin readinefs, I took my laft leave of Major Farmer,and left Taenfa. Our caravan confided ofbetween twenty and thirty horfes, fixteen ofv/hich were loaded, two pack-horfemien, and mylelf,under the diie6tion of Mr. Tap y thechief trader. One of our young men was aMuftee Creek, his mother being a Cha6law (lave,and his father a half breed, betwixt a Creek anda v/hite man. I loaded one horfe with my effedls,fome preftnts to the Indians, to enable me to purchafea frefh horfe, in cafe of necelTity ; for myold trufty flave, which had ferved me faithfully almoftthree years, having carried me on his back atlead fix thouiiind miles, was by this time almoftworn out, and 1 expeded every hour he v/ould giveup, efpecially after I found the manner of thefetraders' traveUing. They feldom decamp until thefun is high and hot -, each one having a whipmade of the toughed cow-fkin, they llart all atonce, the horfes having ranged themfelves in regularIndian file, the veteran in the van, and theyounger ir^^/the rear; then the chief drives withthe crack ''bf his whip, and a whoop or fliriek,which rings tlirough the forefts and plains, fpeaksin Indian, commanding them to proceed, whichIS repeated by all the company, when we ftartIt once, keeping up a brilk and conftant trot,which

:NORTH AMERICA.a^qwliick is incefiantly urged and continued as longa^ the mlfcrable creatures are able to move forward; and then come to camp, though frequendyin the middle of the afternoon, which isthe pleafanteft time of the day for travellingand every horfe has a bell on, which being floppedwhen we ftart in the morning witii a twift ofgrafs or leaves, foon fliakcs out, and they arenever flopped again during the day. The conftantringing and clattering of the bells, fmackingof the whips, whooping and too frequentcurfing thefc milerable quadrupeds, caufe an inceflantuproar and confufion, inexprcflibly difagreeable.After three days travelling in this mad manner,my old fervant was on the point of givingout, and I'everal of the company's horfcs weretired, but were relieved of their burthens by theled horfcs which attended for that purpofe. Iwas now driven to difagreeable extremities, andhad no other alternative, but either to leave myhorfe in the woods, pay a very extravagant hirefor a doubtful palfage to the Nation, or feparatcmyfelf from my companions, and wait tiie recoveryof my horfe alone : the chief gave me noother comfortable advice in this dilemma, thanthat there was a company of traders on the roada-head of us from the Nation, to Mobile, whohad a large gang of led horfes with them for fale,v^hen they Siould arrive ; and expecled, from theadvice which he had received at Mobile beforewe fet off from thence, tliat this company muRbe very near to us, and probably would be upto-morrow, or at leafl in two or three days :andthis man condcfcended fo far as to moderate aTittle his mode of travelling, that I might have a-F f 4chance

440 TRAVELS INchance of keeping up with them until the eveningof next day j hefides I had the comfort ofobferving that the traders and pack-horfemencarried themfelves towards me with evident fignsof huinanitv and friendfhip, often exprefling fentimcntsof fympathy, and faying I mull not be lefcalone to periili in the wildernefs.Although my apprehenfions on this occafionwere fomewhat tumultuous, fince there Vv^as httlehope, on the principle of reafon, fhould I be leftalone, of efcaping cruel captivity, and perhapsbeing murdered by the Chafbav/s (for the companyof traders was my only fecurity, as theIndians never attack the traders on the road,though they be trading with nations at enmiitywith them) yet 1 had fecret hopes of relief anddeliverance, that cheered me, and infpired confidenceand peace of mind.Now I am come within the atmofphere of theIllicium groves, how reanimating is the fragrance! every part of this plant above groundpolTcffes an aromatic fcent, but the large itillatedpericarpe is the moft fragrant part of It, M'hichcontinually pcrfpires an oleagenous fweat, aswarm and vivific as cloves or mace. I never fawit grow naturally further North than Lat. 33%on the Mobile river and its branches, and burone place in Eaft Florida near Lake George,Lat. 28".About the middle of the afternoon, we werejoyfully fiirprifed at the diftant profpeft of thetrading company corning up, and we foon met,fainting eacii other feveral times with a generalIndian whoop, or fhout of friendfliip; then eachcompany came to camp within a few paces ofeach

NORTH AMERICA.^^Xeach other; and before night I ftruck up a baigainwith them for a handlbmc ftrong younghorfe, which coft me about ten pounds flcrling.I was nov/ conftiained to leave my old flave behind,to feed in rich cane paftures, where he wasto remain and reciuit until the return of his newmafter from Mobile; from whom I extorted apromife to ufe him gently, and if pcdiblc, not tomake a pack-horfc of him.Next morning we decamped, proceeding againon my travels, now alert and clicerf il. Croficd abriflv riviikt rippling over a gravelly bed, andwinding through aromatic groves of the IlliciumFloridanum, then gently defcended to the highforefts, leaving Deadman's creek, for at thiscreek a white man was found dead, fupoofed tohave been murdered, from which circumftanccit has its name.A few days before we arrived at the Nation,we met a company of emigrants from Georgia;a man, his wife, a young woman, feveral youngchildren, and three ftout young men, witii abouta dozen horfes loaded with their property. Theyinformed us their defign was to fetde on theAlabama, a few miles above the confluence ofthe Tombigbe.Being now near the Nation, die chief traderwith another of our company fat off a-head forhis town, to give notice to the Nation, as he faid,of his approach with the merchandize, each oftliem taking the beft horfe they could pick outof the gang, leaving the goods to the conduftand care of the young Multce and myfelf. Earlyin the evening we came to the banks of a largttdeep creek, a confiderable branch of the Alabama:

;:44^TRAVELS INbama: the waters ran furioufly, being overchargedwith the floods of rain which had fallenthe day before. We difcovered immediately thatthere was no poffibility of crofling it by fordingits depth and rapidity would have iwept ourhorfes, loads and all, inftantly from our fightmy companion, after conHderation, faid we muflmake a raft to ferry over our goods, which weimmediately fet about, after unloading our horfesand turning them out to range. I undertook tocoUeft dry canes, and my companio'n, dry timberor logs and vines to bind them together : havinggathered the neceffary materials, and laid themin order on the brinks of the river, ready to workupon, we betook ourfelves to repofe, and earlynext mornino; fat about building our raft. Thiswas a novel fcene to me, and I could not, untilfinifhed and put to praftice, v/ell comprehendhow it cculd poffibly anfwer the efFe

NORTH AMERICA.44Jmy charge, to fteady the raft and haul it backagain after being unloaded. As loon as he hidfafe landed and hauled taught his vine, I pulhedoff the raft, vvliich he drew over as quick as poffible,I fteadyiiig it with my vine : in this manner,though with inexprelTible danger of lofingour efFe6ls, we ferried all (dfe over. The laltload, with otner artic'es, contained my property,"ivith all my clothes, which 1 ftripped off", exceptmy breeches, for they contained matters ofmore value and confequence than all t!ie reftof my property put together ; befiJes I did notchoofe to expofe myfelf entirely naked to thealligators and ferpents in crofTing the flood. Nowfeeingail the goods {iife over, and the horfes at alanding place on the banks of the river aboutfifty yards above, I drove them all in together,when, feeing them fafe landed, I plunged inafter them, and being a tolerable fwimmrr, foonreached the nppofite fhore. But my difficukies^t this place were not yet at an end, for ourhorfes all landed juft below the mouth of a confiderablebranch of this river, of fifteen or twentyfeet width, and its perpendicular banks almoftas many feet in height above its fwift waters,over which we were obliged to carry every articleof our effects, and this by no other bridge thana fapling felled acrofs it, which is called a raccoonbridge ; and over this my Indian friendwould trip as quick and Tight as that quadruped,with one hundred weight of leather on his back,when I was fcarcely able to fhuffie myfelf alongover it aftride. At laft having re- packed and fitoff again, without any material occurrence intervening,in the evening we arrived at the banksof the great Tallapoofe river, and came to campunder fhelter of fome Indian cabins, in expanfiveIfields.

444 TRAVELS INfields, clofe to the river bank, oppofite the townof Savannuca. Late in the evening a youngwhite man, in great hafte and ieeming confulion,joined our camp, who immediately related,that being on his journey from Penfacola, ithappened that the very night after we had pafTedthe company of emigrants, he met them andjoined their camp, in the evening ; when, juft atdark, the Chaftaws furrounded them, plunderedtheir camp, and carried all the people off captive,except himfelf, he having the good fortune toeltrape with his horfe, though clofely purfued.Next morning very early, though very cold,and the lurface of the earth as hoary as if coveredwith a fall of fnow, the trader iianding on theoppofite fliore entirely naked, except a breechclout,and encircled ,by a company of red men inthe like habit, hailed us, and prefcntly, withcanoes, brought us all over with the merchandize,and conduced us fafe to the town ofMucclafie, a mile or two diftant.The next day was a day of reft and audience :the following was devoted to feafting, and theevening concluded in celebrating the nuptials ofthe young Muftee with a Creek girl of Mucclaffe,daughter of the chief and fifter to ourtrader's wife. The trader's houfe and ftoresformed a complete fquare, after the mode of thehabitations of the Mufcogulges, that is, fouroblong buildings of equal dimenfions, two oppofiteto each other, encompafling an area ofabout a quarter of an acre ; on one fide of thisa fence enciofed a yard of near an acre of ground,at one of the farther corners of which a booth orpavilion was formed of green boughs, havingtwo Laurel trees, planted in front (MagnoliaSiandi*

NORTH AMERICA.^.^^grandiflora). This was the fccret nuptial chamber.Dancing, mufic and fealling continued tlicforepart of the night, and towards morning thehappy couple privately withdrew, and continuedalone all the next day, no one prefuming to approachthe facred, myfterious thalame.The trader obliged me with his company on avifit to the Alabama, an Indian town at the confluenceof the two fine rivers, the Tallapoofe andCoofau, which here refign their names to thegreat Alabama, where are to be feen traces ofthe ancient French fortreis, Thouloufe ; here areyet lying, half buried in the earth, a few piecesof ordnance, four and fix pounders. I obfcrved,in a very thriving condition, two or three verylarge apple trees, planted here by the French.This is, perhaps, one of the moft eligible fituationsfor a city in the world ; a level plain betweenthe conPiUX of two majeftic rivers, whichare exa6]:ly of equal magnitude in appearance,each navigable for veflels and perriauguas atlead five hundred miles above it, and fpreadingtheir numerous branches over the moil fertileand delightful region?, many hundred m.iles beforewe reach their fources in the Apalacheanmountains.Stayed all night at Alabam.a, where we had agrand entertainm.ent at the public fquarc, withmufic and dancing, and returned next day toMucclafTe ; where being informed of a companyof traders about fettin^ off" from Tuckabatche forAugufta, I made a vifit to that town to know thetrutn of it, but on my arrival there they weregone ; but being informed of another caravanwho were to ftart from the OttaflTe town in twoor

;44^TRAVELS INor three weeks time, I returned to Mucclafle itiorder to prepare for my departure.On my anival I was not a little fu-prifed at atragical revolution in the family of my friend thetrader, hi^ fcores HiUt up, and guarded by a partyof Indians: in a few minutes however, the wholeaffair v/as related to me. It appeared that thisfon of Ad nis, had been detefted in an amorousintrigue, wiih the wife of a young chief, the dayafter his ai rival: the chief was out on a hunt,but arrived next day; and upon information ofthe affair, the fa6l being confirmed, he with hisfriends and kindred refolved to exaft legal fatis-£i6tion, which in this cafe is cutting off both earsof the delinquent, clofe to the head, which iscalled cropping. This being determined upon,he took the mofl: fecret and effectual methods toeffect his purpofe. About a dozen young Indianfellows conduced by their chief (the injuredhuiband), having provided and armed themfelveswith knotty cudgels of green Hiccory,•which they concealed under their mandes, in theduflc of the evening paid a pretended friendlyvifit to the trader at his own houfe, when thechief feigning a private matter of bufinefs, tookhim afide in the yard ; then whifliing throughhis fingers (the fignal preconcerted) he was inftantlyfurrounded, knocked down, and thenfaipped to his Ikin, and beaten with their knottybludgeons ; however he had the fubtilty to feignhimfeif fpeechlcfs before they really killed him^which he fuppofed was their intention : when hehad now lain for dead, the executioner drew outhis knife with an intention of taking off his ears :this fmall rcfpite gave him time to refled a littlewhen

NORTH AMERICA.^j^ywhen he inftantly fprang up, ran ofF, leaped thefence, and had the good fortune to get into adark fwamp, overgrown with vines and thickets,where he miraculoufly ekided the carncft refearchesof his enemies, and finally made a faferetreat to the houfe of his father-in-law, the chiefof the town, throwing himfelf under his proteftion,who gave his word that he wculd dohim all the favour that lay in his power. Thisaccount 1 had from his own mouth, for hearingof my return, the next morning after my arrival,he fent a trufty meflenger, by whom I foundmeans of accefs to him. Fie firther informedme, that there had been a council of the chiefsof the town convened, to deliberate on the affair,and their final determination was that he muftlofe his ears, or forfeit all his goods, wliichamounted to upwards of one thoufand poundsfterling, and even that forfeiture would not favehis ears, unlefs Mr, Golphin interpofed in hisbehalf i and after all, the injured Indian declaresthat he will have his life. He entreated me withtears to make what fpeed I could to Silver Blufl^to reprefent his dangerous fituation to Mr. Golphi-n,and folicit that gentleman's moft fpeedyand cfFeftual interference iwhich I afTured himI wo4ild undertake.Now having all things prepared for my departure,early in the morning, after taking leave ofmy diftreffed friend the trader of MuccIafTe, Ifat off, pafTed through continued plantationsand Indian tov/ns on my way up the Tallapooferiver, being every where treated by the inhabitantswith marks of friendiliip, even as though Ihad been their countryman and relation. Calledby tlie way at the beautiful town of Coolome,where

44^ .TRAVELS INwhere I tarried fome time with Mr. German/the chief trader of the tov/n, an elderly gentleman,but active, cheerful and very agreeable,who received and treated me with the utmoftcivility and friendfhip : his wife is a Creek woman,of a very amiable and worthy charafter anddifpofition, induftrious, prudent and affeftionate;and by her he had feveral children, v.'hcm he isdefirous to fend to Savanna or Charlefton, fortheir education, but cannot prevail on his wifeto confent to it ; this affair affefts him very fenfibly,for he has accumulated a pretty fortune byhis induftry and commendable condudt.Leaving Coolome, I re-crofftd the river atTuccabache, an ancient and large town ; thencecontinued up tlie river, and at evening arrivedat Attaffe, where I continued near a week, waitingthe preparations of the traders, with whom IVvas to join in company to Augufta.The next day' after m^y arrival, Iwas introducedto the ancient chiefs, at the public fquare orjireopagus ; and in the evening, in companywith the traders, who are numerous in this town,repaired to the great rotunda, where were aflembledthe greateft number of ancient venerablechiefs and \\an-iors that I had ever beheld: wefpent the evening and great part of the nighttogether, in drinking Calfine and fmoking Tobacco.The great council houfe or rotunda,is appropriated to much the fiime purpofe as thepublic fquare, but more private, and feems particularlydedicated to political affairs ; womenand youth are never admitted j and I fuppofe,in is death for a female to prefume to enter thedoor, or apj-roach v.ithin its ple. It is a vaflconical building or circular dome, capable ofaccommo-

NORTH AMERICA.4:; qaccommodating many hundred people; conftriKftedand furniflicd within, exasftly in the lame manivjr asthole of the Cheroliees ah-eady delcribed, but muchlarger than any I had feen of them : there arc peopleappointed to take care of it, to have it dailyfwept clean, and to provide canes for fuel, or too-ive liffht.As their vigils and manner of condu61:ing theirvefpers and myiticai fire in this rotunda, are extremelyfmgular, and altogether different fromthe cuftoms and ufages of any other people, Ifhall proceed to dcfcribe them. In the Hrit place,the governor or officer who has the manage m,entof this bufinefs, with his fervants attending, ordersthe black drink to be brewed, which is adecoftion or infufion of the leaves and tenderflioots of the CafTine : this is done under an openflied or pavilion, at twenty or thirty 3'ards diftance,direftly oppofite the door of the councilhoufe.Next he orders bundles of dry canes tobe brought in : thefe are previoufly fpllt andbroken in pieces to about the length of two feet,and then placed obliquely crr.'flways upon oneanother on the floor, forming a fpiral circleround about the great centre pillar, rifing to afoot or eighteen inches in height from the ground;and this circle Iprcading as it proceeds roundand round, often repeated from right to left,every revolution encreafes its diameter, and atlength extends to the ditlance of ten or twelvefeet from the centre, more or Icfs, according tothe lensth of time the allemblv or meeting is tocontinue. By the time thele preparations areaccomplifhed, it is night, and the afrcmbly shavetaken their feats in order. I'he exterior extremityor outer end ot the fplrai circle takes fire-G nand

45'^'TRAVELS mand immediately rifes into a bright flame (buthow this is effefted I did not plainly apprehend jI faw no perfon fet fire to it; there might havebeen fire left on the earth, however I neither fawnor fmelt fire or fmoke until the blaze inftantlyafcended upwards), which gradually and flowlycreeps round the centre pillar, v/ith the courfe ofthe lun, feeding on the dry canes, and affords acheerful, gentle and fufHcient light until the circleis confumed, when the council breaks up. Soonafter this illumination takes place, the aged chiefsand warriors are feated on their cabins or fophas,on the fide of the houfe oppofite the door, in threeclalTes or ranks, rifing a little, one above or behindthe other ; and the white people and red people ofconfederate rowns in the like order on the lefthand ; a tranfverfe range of pillars, fup porting athin clay wall about breafl high, feparating them :the king's cabin or feat is in front ; the next to theback of it the head warrior's ; and the third or laftaccommodates the young v/arriors, &c. Thegreat war chiefs feat or place is on the fame cabinwith, and immediately to the left hand of the king,and next to the white people ; and to the righthand of the mico or king the moll venerablehead-men and warriors are feated. The aifemblybeing now feated in order, and the houfe illuminated,two middle aged men, who perform theoffice of iiL-ves or fervants, pro tempore, come mtogether at the door, each having very largeconch fliclls full of black drink, and advancewith flow, uniform and fteady fleps, their eyesor countenances lifted up, iinging very low butIweetly ; they come within fix or eight paces ofthe king's and white people's cabins, when they{top together,, and each reils his fhell on a tripos

ffORTH AMERICA. ATIor little table, but prefently takes it up n^ain,and, bowing very low^ advances obfequioully,croffing or interfedling each other about midway:he who relied his fhell before the whitepeople now {lands before the king, and the otherwho (lopped before the king ftands before thewhite people j when each prefents his fhell, oneto the king and the ocher to the chief of thewhite people, and as foon as he raifcs it to hismouth, the (lave utters or fings two notes, eachof which continues as long as he Jias breadi jand as long as thefe notes continue, fo long muftthe perfon drink, or at leaft keep the fliell to hismouth. Thefe two long notes are very flcnnn,and at once ftrike the imagination with a religiousav/e or hom .ge to the Supreme, founding fomewhatlike a-hoo— oj.ih and a-lu — yah. Afcer thismanner the whole aifembiy ai e treated, as long asthe drink and light continue to hold out; and asfoon as the drinking begins, tobacco and pipes arebrought. The fkin of a wild cat or young tygerfluffed with tobacco is brought, and laid at theking's feet, with the great or royal pipe beautifullyadorned ; the fl

:45'^ TRAVELS INhand of the mico by a flave, and prefented to thechief white man, and then to the great war chief,whence it circulates through the rank of head menand warriors, then returns to the king. After thiseach one fills his pipe from his own or his neighbour'sficin.The great or public Iquare generally ftandsalone, in tlie centre and higheft part of the town :it confifts of four-fquare or cubical buildings, orlioufes of one ftory, uniform, and of the famedimenfions, fo fituated as to form an exa6l tetragon,enccmpafTing an area of half an acre of ground,more or lefs, according to the fcrength or largenefsof the town, or will of the inhabitants ; there isa paffage or avenue at each corner of equal widtheach building is conftrutled of a wooden frame fixedftrongly in the earth, the walls filled in and neatlyplaiftered v^^ith clay mortar ; clofe on three fides,that is the back and two ends, except within abouttwo feet of the wall plate or eves, which is left openfor the purpofe of a window and to admit a freepaffage of the air ; the front or fide next to thearea is quite open like a piazza. One of thefebuildings is properly the council houfe, where themico, chiefs, and v/arriors, with the citizens whohave buhnefs, or choofe to repair thither, affembkevery day in council, to hear, decide and red^tifyall grievances, complaints and contentions, arifingbetwixt the citizens; give audience to ambaffidors,and ftrangers; hear news and talksfrom confederate towns, allies or diftant nations ;confult J bout the particular affairs of the town,as ereding habitations for new citizens, or eftablifliingyoung families, concerning agriculture,&c. This building is fomewhat different fromthe

NORTH AMERICA.45Jthe Other three : it is clofely fliut up on three fi Ics,that is the back and two ends, and befides, a partitionwall longitudinally from end to end dividesit into two apartments, the back par! totally dark,only three fmall arched apertures or holes openinginto it from the front apartment or piazzci, andlittle larger than jull: to admit a man to crawl inupon his hands and knees. This llcludcd placeappears to me to be defigned as a fanftiiary * dedicatedto religion or rather pricft craft ; for hereare depofited allthe facred things, as the phyfic pot,rattles, chaplets of deer's hoofs and other apparatusof conjuration ; and likewife the calumet or greatpipe of peace, the imperial ftandard, or eagle's tail,which is made of the feathers of the white eagle'stail -j- curioufly formed and difplayed like an openfan on a fceptre or flaff, as white and clean aspoflible when difplayed for peace, but when forwar, the feathers are painted or tinged witn Vermillion.The piazza or front of this building,is equally divided into three apartments, by twotranfverfe walls or partitions, about bread high,each having three orders or ranges of feats or cabinsflepping one above and behind the otl^.er,which accommodate the fcnate and audience, inthe like order as obferved in the rotunda. Theother three buildings which compofe tlie fquire,are alike furniflied with three ranges of cabins orfophas, and fervc for a banqueting houfe, tofhelter and accommodate the audience and fpectatorsat all times, particularly at feafts or publicentertainments, where all clalfes of citizens relort• Sanitoriura or facred temp!e ; ami it is faiil to be death for nny pfrf»ubut the mico, w ar-cliicf and Ijij'i prieft to enter in, and none are adr.iiticdiut by peririilfioii of tlie jritlV, vUio ?.\irtrd it day r.iid ni^ht.-|- Vultur facra.G g 3day

;454 TRAVELS INday and night in the fummer or moderate fcafonthe children and females hov/ever are feldom ornever feen in me public fquare.The pillars and walls of the houfes of the fquareare decorated with various paintings and fculptures ;which I fuppofe to be hieroglyphic, and as anhiftorjc legendary of political and facerdotalaffairs:but I hey are extremely pi£turefque or caricature,as men in variety of attitudes, fome ludicrousenough, others having the head of fome kind ofanimal, as thofe of a duck, turkey, bear, fox, wolf,buck, &c. and again thofe kind of creatures arereprefented having the human head. Thefe defignsare not ill executed ; the outlines bold, free,and vv^ell proportioned. The pillars fupporting thefront or piazza of the council- houfe of the fquare,are ingenioufly formed in the likenefs of vafbfpeckled ferpents afcending upwards j the OttafTesbeing of the fnake family or tribe. At this timethe town was falling, taking medicine, and I thinkI may fny praying, to avert a grievous calamityof ficknefs, which had lately afflicted them, andlaid in the grave abundance of their citizens.Thtyfail ft::vcn or eight days, during Vv^hich time theycat or drink nothing but a meagre gruel, made ofa little corn-fiour and water; taking at the fametime by way of medicine or phyfic, a llrong deco6tionof tiic roots of the Iris verficolor, whichis a powerful cathartic : they hold this root inhigh cuiniation, every town cultivates a little plantationof it, having a large ardhcial pond, juilwithout the town, planted and almofl overgrownwith it, where they ufually dig clay for pottery,and mortar and plafter for their buildings, and Iobferved vyjierc they had lately been digging upthisroof.I;.

NORTH AMERICA.^^^In the midft of a large oblong fquare adjoiningthis town, (which was fuiTounded with a lowbank or terrace) is fl;anding a high pillar, roundlike a pin or needle ; it is about forty feet in height,and between two and three feet in diameter at theearth, gradually tapering upwards to a point ; it isone piece of pine wood, and arifes from the centreof a low, circular, artificial hi!l, but it leans a littleto one fide. I inquired of the Indians and traderswhat it was defigned for, who anfv/ered they knewnot: the Indians laid that their anceflors f)und itin the fame fituation, when they firft arrived andpofieiTed the councrv, adding, that the red men orIndians, then the pofleirors, whum they vanqnifhed,were as ignorant as themfclves concerning it, fayingthat their anceftors like wife found it ftanding fo.This monument, fimple as it is, may be worthythe obfervations of a traveller, fince it naturallyexcites at lead the following queries : for whatpurpofe was it defigned ? its great antiquity andincorruptibility—what method or machines theyemployed to bring it to the fpot, and how theyraifed it ereft ? There is no tree or fpecies of thepine, whofe wood, i. e. fo large a portion of thetrunk, is fuppofed to be incorrupnble, expofed inthe open air to all weathers, but the long-leavedPine (Pin. paluftris), and there is none growingwithin twelve of fifteen miles of tins place, thattree being naturally produced only on the»high,dry, barren ridges, where there is a fandy ll)il andgralTy wet fivannas.A great numbtr of men unitingtheir ftrength, probably carried it to the placeon handfpikes, or fome fuch contrivance.On the Sabbath day before I fet off from thispiace^ I could not help obferving die folemnityG g 4of

45^TRAVELS INTof the town, the filence and the retlrednefs of thered inhabitants Jbat a very few of them were to befeen, the doors of their dwelhngs fhut, and if a childchanced to flray out, it was quickly drawn in doorsagain. I afked the meaning of this, and was immediatelyanfwered, that it being the white people'sbeloved day or Sabbath, the Indians kept it religioullyfacred to the Great Spirit.Lafl: night was clear and cold, wind NorthWeft, and this morning, January 2d, 1788, theface of the earth was perfe6tly white with abeautiful fparkling frofl. Sat off for Auguftawith a company of traders, four men with aboutthirty horfes, twenty of which were loaded withleather and furs, each pack or load fuppofed toweigh one hundred and fifty pounds upon anaverage. In three days we arrived at the Apalachuclaor Chata Uche river ; croffed at the pointtov/ns Chehaw and UfTeta: thefe towns almoftjoin -each other, yet fpeak two languages, as radicallydifferent perhaps as the Mufcogulge's andChinefe. After leaving the river we met withnothing material, or worth particular obfervation,until our arrival at Oakmulge, towards evening,where v/e encamped in expanfive ancientIndian fields, in view of the fioaming flood of tlieriver, now raging over its banks. ^Here were twocorr^anies of traders from Auguila, bound to theNatiorji, confifiiing of fifteen or twenty men, withfeventy or eighty horfes, moft of which had theirloads of merchandize : they croffed the river thismornirg and loft- fix horfes in the attempt; theywere drowned, beino- entano;led in the vines underwater at landing. But the river now failingagain, we were in hopes that by next morningthe

:NORTH AMERICA.4^7the waters would be again confined wich'm thebanks. We imnnediatciy fat aboiK rigging ourportable leather boat, about eight feet long,vv'hich was of thick foal leather, folded up andcarried on the top of a pack of deer flvins. Thepeople loon got her rigged, which was effectedafter the following manner. We, in the firftplace, cut down a White-Oak fapling, and bynotching this at each end, bent it up, whichformed the keel, ftem and flern poft of onepiece ; this was placed in the bottom of the boat,and pretty ftrong hoop- poles being fixed in thebottom acrofs the keel, turning up their ends,expanded the hull of the boat, which being faftenedby thongs to two other poles bent round,the outfide of the rim formed the gunwhalestiius in an hour's time our bark was rigged, towhich afterwards we added two little oars orfculls. Our boat being now in readincfs, and ourhorfes turned out to pafture, each one retired torepofe, or to fuch exercife as moft efi'ecluallycontributed to divert the mind. I was at thistime rather dejected, and fought comfort in retirement,turning my courfe to the expanfivefields, fragrant groves and fublime forefts. Returnedto camp by dufl^, where I found my companionscheerful and thoughtlefs rather to an extreme.It was a calm ftill evening and warm ;the wood-cock (fcolopax) chirruping high upin the air, gently defcends by a fpiral circulartract, and alights on the humid plain : this birdappears in Pennfylvania early in the fpring, whenthe Elm and Maple begin to flower ; and herethe fcarlet Maple, Elm and Elder began to l>.o\vtheir flowers; the yellow Jafmin was i'lfc readyto open its fragrant golden blolToms, and the gayAzalea alfo preparing to expand its beauties.The

345TRAVELSIKThe morning cool and r^leafant: after reconnoiteringthe ihores of :,ic rivers, and confultingwith our brethren in diftrefs, who had not yetdecarnpedj refolving to ftay and lend their afriftancein pafTing over this rapid gulph, we wereencouraged to proceed ; and launching our barkinto the raging flood, after many fucccfsful tripsferried over all the goods, then drove in ourhorfes altogether, and had the pleafure of feeingthem all fafely landed on the oppofite fhore j andlaftly I embarked with three of our people, andfeveral packs of leather ; we then put off fromfhore, bidding adieu to our generous friends leftbehind, who re-echoed our fhouts upon our fafelanding. We proceeded again, crolTed the Oconnein the fame manner, and v;ith the like fuccefs,and came to camp in the fertile fields, on thebanks of that beautiful river ; and proceedingthence next day, in the evening came to camp onthe waters of great Ogeche. The following day,afncr croffing feveral of its conliderable branches,came to camp j and next day crolled the mainbranch of that fam.ous river, which being wideand very rapid proved difficult and dangerousfording ; yet we crofTed without any lofs, butfome of our pack-horfes were badly bruifed, beingfwept off their feet and daflied againft therocks, my horfe too being carried away with thecurrent, and plunging off funken fhelving rocksinto deep holes, I got very wet, -but I kept myfeat and landed fafe : however I fuffered much, itbeing a cold freezing day. We came to campearly and raifing great fires with Pine knots andother wood, we dried ourfelves and kept warmdurirg the long night, and after two days morehard travelling we arrived at Augufta.Bein;::

NORTH AMERICA.^

460 TRAVELS INchiefly a teftaceous concretion of broken, eiidrcand piilverifed fea-fhells, fand, &c. conftitutinga coarfe kind of lime-llone. The ebullition iscopious, adllve and continual over the raggedapertures in the rocks, which lie feven or eightfctt below, fwelling the furface confiderably immediatelyabove it. The waters defcend iwiftlyfrom the fountain, forming at once a large brook,fix or eight yards over, and five or fix feet deep.There are multitudes of fifli in the fountain, ofvarious tribes, chiefly the feveral fpecies ofbream, trout, cat-fifli, and garr : it was amufingto behold the fifli continually afcending and defcendingthrough the rocky apertures. Obfervedthat we croflTed no fl:ream or brook of water withintwelve or fifteen miles of this fountain, but hadin view vaft favannas, fwamps and Cane meadows,at no great diftance from our road, onour right hand, which we may prefume were therefources or refervoirs which contributed to thefupplies of this delightful grotto. Here weregrowing on the afcents from the fountain, Magnoliagrandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Quercusfempervirens, Callicarpa ; at a litttle diftance, agrove of the Caifine ; and in an old field, juftby, are to be fecn feme fmall Indian mounts. Wetravelled feveral miles ever ridges of low fwellinghills, whofe furfaces were covered with particolouredpebbles, ftreaked and clouded withred, white, brown and yellow : they were mofllybrolcen or fliivercd to pieces, I beheve by theancients in forming arrow-heads, darts, knives,&c. for I obferved frequently fome of thefe misfxinpcnimplements amongfl: them, fome brokenand others ipoiled in the making. Thefe flcnesfeemed to be a fpecies of jafper or agate.On

NORTH AMERICA.46 IOn my way down I alio called at Silver Bluff,and waited on the honourable G. Golphin, F.fq.to acknowledge my obligations to him, and likewileto fulfil my engagements on the part of Mr.X----y, trader of Mucclafie. Mr. Golphin affuredme that he was in a diiagrteable predicament,and that he feared the worft, but faid hewould do all in his power to fave him.After five days pleafant travelling we arrivedat Savanna in good health.Lift of the towns and tribes in league, andwhich conftitute the powerful confederacy or empireof the Creeks or Mufcogulges.Oakfurkc,Towns on the Tallapoofe or Oakfufkc river, viz.Oaicfufke,XJfale,upper.Ufale, lower.Sokafpoge.upper.lower.Tallafc, great.Coolome.Ghuaclahatche.Otafle.Cluale.Thefe fpeak the MufcO-/ gulge or Creek tongue,Icalled the Mother tongue.Fufahatche.Tuccabatche.Cunhut!:e.M ucclalle.Speak the Stincard tongue.Alabama.Savannuca.Whittumke.Coofauda.fSpeak the Uche tongue.Speak the Stincard tongue.Towns on the Coofau river, viz.AbacoocheSpeaks a dialett of Chicafaw.PocontallahalTe.Hiccory ground, (traders'name),Natche.\Speak the Mufcogulgeton cue.Speaks Mufcog. and Chicafaw.T

'462 TRAVELS IN"Towns on the branches of the Coofau river, visi,Wiccakavv.Fiih pond, traders* name. / r- 1'^ ',1 a/t r i' bpeak the Mulcogul^HillabatonETue.Kiolegei'ITowns on the Apalachucla orApalachucla.1 ucpaufka.Chockeclucca*Chata Uche.Checlucca-^ninne.Hothletega.Coweta.Chata Uche river^ viz*UiTeta.Uche.Speaks the Savnnnuca tongue*'Hoofeche.Sneaks the Mulcoo-. tongue.Chehaw. . ,Echeta.Occone»Speak the Stincard.Swaglav/, great.Swag] aw, little.JTowns on Flint River, comprehending the Simincles ofLower Creeks*Suola-nocha,Cufcowilla or Allachua,,Talahalbchte.Caloofahatche.Gr at iHand,« Great hammock*-CaponSt. Mark'sForksSpe?k the Mufcogulgctongue;,Traders nam-C.Traders name*Traders name.Traders name.Traders name.With many others of lefs note.The Siminoles fpeak both the Mufcogulgcand Stijicarci tongues.In all fifty-live towns, befides many villagesnot enumtrated j and reckoning tv/o hundi edinhabitants to each town on an average, whichO^iIS

NORTH AMERICA,46Jis a moderate computation, would give eleventhoufand inhabitants. 'It appears to me pretty clearly, Tiom diverscircumilances, that this powerful empi . or confederacyof the Creeks cr Mufcogulges, arofefrom, and eftablifhed itfelf upon, the ruins ofthat of the Natches, agreeably to monfieur Duprat.According to the Mufcogulges account ofthemfclves, they arrived from the South-Weft,beyond the Mifii/Tippi, fome time before the Englifhfettled the colony of Carolina, and builtCharlefton; and their ftory concerning their countryand people, fom whence they fprang, thecaufe of leaving their native land, the progreisof their migration, &c. is very fimilar to thatcelebrated hillorian's account of the Natches.They might have been included as allies andconfederates in that vaft and pov/erful empire ofred men. The Mufcogulges gradually puihingand extending their fettlements on their North-Eaft border, until the difTolution of the Natchesempire ; being then the moft numerous, warlikeand powerful tribe, they began to fubjugate thevarious tribes or bands which formerly conftitutedthe Natches, and uniting them with themfelves,formed a new confederacy under the name of theMufcogulges.The Mufcogulge tongue is now the nationalor fovereign language; thofe of the Chicafaws,Chaflaws, and even the remains of the Natches,if we are to credit the Creeks and traders, beingdialefts of the Mufcogulge : and pi'obably, whenthe Natches were fovereigns, they called their ownthe national tongue, and the Creeks, Chicafaws,&c. only dialecfts of theirs. It is uncertain whickis really the mother tongue.aAs

464 TRAVELS IN^As for thofe numerous remnant bands ortribes, included at this day v.'ithin the Mufcogulgeconfederacy, who generally fpeak the Stincardlanguage, (which is radically different fromthe Mufcogulge) they are, beyond a doubt, thefliatttred ren.ains of the various nations who inhabitedthe lower or maritime parts of Carolinaand Florid', from Cape Fear, Weft to the Miffiflippi.The IciHguage of the Uches and Savannucasis a tiiird radically different from the Mufcogulgeand Stincard, and feems to be a moreNorthern tongue ; I fuppofe a language that prevailedamcngii the numerous tribes who formerlypofieiTed and inhabited the maritime parts ofMaryland and Virginia. I was told by an oldtrader that the Savannucns and Shawanefe fpeakdie ianie language, or ve;v near alike.C H A P.

KORTH AMERICA.4!^^CHAP.IX.After my return from the Creek nation, I employedmyfcif during tr.e fpring and fore pare offummer, in revlfiting the feverrJ diftriLls in Georgiaand the Eaft borders of Florida, where I liadnoted the moll curious fubiecSbs ; colleding themtogether, and fliipping them off to England. Inthe courfe of thefe excurfions and rtfearches, Ihad the opportunity of obferving the new floweringIlirub, refembling the Gordonia*, in perfeflbloom, as well as bearing ripe fruit. It is a floweringtree, of the firft: order for beauty and fragranceof biofi^bms : the tree grows fifteen or twenty feechigh, branching alternately; .the leaves are oblong,broadefl; towards their extremities, and terminatewith an acute point, which is generally a littlereflexed ; they are lightly ferrated,. attenuate downwards,and fefllle, or have very fliort petioles ; theyare placed in alternate order, and towards the extremitiesof the twio-s are crouded too;ether, but (landmore Iparfedly below ; the fiov/ers are very large,expand themfelves perfeftly, are of a fnow whitecolour, and ornamented with a crown or taflelof gold coloured refulgent fl:aminaj in their centre,the inferior petal or fegment of the corollaishollow, formed like a cap or helmet, and entirelyincludes the other four, unnl the moment of expanfion; its exterior furface is covered with Afhorc filky hair; the borders of the petals are* On firft obferving the frurtific:ition and liabit of this ttee, I was inc'inedto believe it a Ipecies of Gordonia ; but afterward?, upon ftn^'-r exaniin;;-tion, and comparing its flowers and frui* with thofc of the Gori'onia lafianthus,I prefeiitly found ftnking chrirafteriftics abundantly fiifficient to feparatsit from that genus, and to eftabhlh it the head of a new tribe, wh chMe have lionoured with tl^e name of the illuitrious Et. Benjamin Franklin.JPranklinia Alatamaba.H Ii'crlfped

4-66 TRAVELS INcrifpcd or plicated : thefe L:rge white flowers (landfingle and iefTile in the bofom of the leaves, and beingnear together towards the extremities of thetwigs, and ullially many expanded at the fame timx,make a gay appearance : the fruit is a large, round,dry, v/oody apple or pericarp, opening at each endoppofitely by five alternate fiffures, containing tencells, each replete with dry woody cuneiform feed.This very curious tree was firft taken notice of aboutten or twelve years ago, at this place, when I attendedmy father (John Bartram) on a botanical excurfion3 but, it being then late in the autumn, we couldform no opinion to vv^hat clafs or tribe it belonged.We never faw it grow in any other place, norhave I ever fince feen it growing wild, in all my travels,from Pennfylvania to Point Coupe, on thebanks of the Miffiflippi, which mufl be allowed avery fmgular and unaccountable circumffance i atthis place there are two or three acres of groundwhere it grows plentifully.The other new, fingular and beautiful fhrub*,now here in full bloom, I never faw grow but attwo other places in all my travels, and there veryfparingly, except in Eafl Florida, in the neighbourhoodof the fea-coaft.* I gave it the name of Bignonia bratleate, extem^oF**C li A F,

J^oilTH AMERICA, 4^7CHAP. X.Having now completed my collc6tions in Georgia,I took leave of thele Southern regions, proceedingon my return to Charlefton. Left Savannain the evening, in confequence of a prefiing invitationfrom the honourable Jonathan Bryan, Efq. whov/as returning from the cnpitalj to his villa, abouteight miles up Savanna river j a very delightfullituation, where are fpacious gardens, furnifiied witha variety of fruit trees and flowering flirubs.Obfervedin a low vvTt place at the corner of thegarden,the Ado (Arum efculentum) ; this plant ismuch cultivated in the maritime parts of Georgiaand Florida, for the fake of its large Turnip-likeroot, v/hich M'hen boiled or roafted, is excellent food,and tafbes like the Yam ; the leaves of this magnificentplant are very large, and of a beautiflil greencolour, the fpatha large and circulated, the fpadixterminates with a very long fubulated tongue, nakedand perfedly white : perhaps this may be the ArumColocafia. They have likewile another fpecies ofthe efculent Arum, called Tannier, which is a largeand beautiful plant, and much cultivated and cftecmedfor food, particularly by the Negroes.At night, foon after our arrival, feveral of hisfervants came home with horie loads of wild pigeons(Columba migratoria), which it ftems theyhad colledled in a fhort fpace of time at a neighbouringBay fvvamp : they take them by torchlight: the birds have particular rootling places>where they affociate in incredible multitudes atevening, on lov/ trees and bulhes, in hommocksor higher knolls in the interior parts of vafl:H h 2 _ fwamps.

468 TRAVELS IMfwamp?= Many people go out together on thiskind of fport, when dark : fome take with them littlefafcines of fat Pine fplinters for torches ; othersfacks or bags ; and others furnifli themfelves withpoles or Haves : thus accoutred and prepared, theyapproach the roods; the fudden blaze of light confounds,blinds and affrights the birds, whereby multitudesdrop off the limbs to the ground, and othersare beaten off with the ftaves, being by the fuddenconfternation, entirely helplefs, and eafily taken andput into the facks. It is chiefly the fweet fmallacorns of the Quercus phillos, Quercus aquatica,Qiiercus fempervirens, Quercus flammula, andothers, which induce thefe birds to migrate in theautumn to thofe Southern regions; where theyfpend their days agreeably, and feaft luxurioufly>during the rigour of the colds in the North, whitherthey return at the approach of fummer to breed.Sat off next day, and croffed the river at Zubley'sferry, about fifty miles above Savanna, and inthree days after arrivec' at Charlefton.Obferved, by the way near Jackfonfburg, Ponpon,After fruticofus, growing plentifully in goodmoift ground, ufually by the banks of canals. It isa mofb charming autumnal flowering fhrub; it willrife to the height of eight or ten thety when fupportedby neighbouring trees.After a few days refidence in Charlefton, I fatoff on my return to my native land; croffed Cowperriver, about nine miles above the city, wherethe water was a mile wide, and the ferry-houfebeing on the oppofitc fhore, I hoifted my travellingblanket on a po!e for a fignal, which beingwhite, the people ibon came to me and carriedme

NORTH AMERICA. 469me fafe over. In three dciys more eafy travelling,I croiTed Winyaw bay, jufl below George town; andin two days more, got to the Weft end of Longbay, where I lodged an a large Indigo plafttation.Sat off early next morning, and after crolTing overthe fand ridges, which afford little elfe but Quercuspumila, Myrica cerifera, Caffine, Sideroxylon andAndromeda entangled with various fpecies of S milax,got on the bay, which is a hard fand beach,expofed for the diftance of fifteen miles to the continuallafh of the Atlantic ocean. At about lowwater mark, are cliffs of rocks of the helmintholithus,being a very firm concrete or petrifaftion, confillingof various kinds of fea-fhells, fine land andpulverized fhells : there is a reef of thefe rocks,thirty or forty yards farther out than low watermark, which lift their rugged backs above water,and brave the continual ftrokes of the waves,^which, however, affifted by the conftant fridion ofthe fands, make continual inroads upon them, andbore them into holes and cavitieS; when tempeftuousfeas rend them to pieces, fcattering the fragmentsover the fandy fhore. It is pleafant riding on thisclean hard fand, paved with fhells of various colours.Obferved a number of perfons coming up ahead, whom I foon perceived to be a party ofNeo-roes. I had every reafon to dread the confequence; for this being a defolate place, I was bythis time feveral miles from any houfc; or plantation,and had reafon to apprehend this to be apredatory band of Negroes; people being frequently'attacked, robbed, and fometimes murderedby them at this place. I was unarmed,alone, and my horfe tired; thus fituated everyway in their power, I had no alternative but toHh3- be

470 TRAVELS INbe refigncd and prepare to meet them. As foonas I law them diftindiy a miie or two off, I immediatelyalighted to reft, and give breath to myhorfe, intending to attempt my fafety by flight, ifupon near approach they fhould betray hoftile defigns.Thus prepared, when we drew near to eachOther, I mounted and rode briikly up j and thougharmed with clubs, axes and hoes, they opened toright and left, and let me pals peaceably. Theirchief informed me whom they belonged to, andiliid they were going to man a new quarter at theWeft end of the bay ; I however kept a fliarp eyeabout me, apprehending that this might poffiblyhave been an advanced divifion, and their intentionswere to ambufcade and furround m.e ; but they kepton quietly, and I was no more alarmed by them. Afternoon, I croffed the fwafh at the eaft end of the bay,and in the evening got to good quarters. Next morningearly I fat off again, and foon croffed LittleRiver at the boundary ; which is on the line thatfeparates North and South Carolina: in an oldfield, on the banks of this river, a little diftancefrom the public houfe, ftands a fingle tree of theMagnolia grandiflora, which is faid to be the moftnorthern fettlement of that tree. Paffed this dayover expanfive favannas, cliarmingly decorated withlate autumnal flowers, as Helianthus, Rtidbeckia,Silphium, Solidago, Helenium, Serratula, Cacalia,After, Lilium Martagon, Gendana csErulea, Chironia,Gentiana faponaria, Afclepias coccinea, Hypericum,Rhexia pulclierrima, &c. &c.Obferved likewife >in thefe favannas abundanceof the ludicrous Dioncea mufcipula (Dion^ea, Elliscpis. ad Linnreum, miraculum naturae, folia8 biloba,

.NORTH AMERICA.47 Ibiloba, radlcalia, ciliata, conduplicanda, fcnnbiiia,jnledla iiicarcerantia. Syil. vcgctab. p. 335)-This wonderful plant fcems to be diftinguiilicdin the creation, by the Author of nature, with facultieseminently fuperior to every ctb.er vegetable produ6tion*;Ipecimens of it were Firfl comnainicatedto the curious of the old v/orld by John Bartrain,the American Bctaniil and traveller, who contributedas much, if not more, than any other mantowards enriching the North American botanicalnomenclature, as well as its natural hiilory.After traverfing thefe ample favannas, I graduallyafcended find hills to open Pine fotelis j atevening got to Old town near Brunfwick, where Ilodged. Brunfwick is a fea-port town on the Clarendon,or Cape Fear river, about thirty milesabove the capes j it is about d:irty years fince this^yas the feat of government, when Arthur Dobbs,chief of theEfq. was governor and commander inprovince of North Carolina. Continued up theWeft fide of North Weft of Cape Fear river, andrefted two or three days at the feat of F. I-ucas,Efq. a fev/ miles above Livingfton's creek, a confiderablebranch- of the Nordi Weft. This creekheads in vaft fwamps, in the vicinity of t'le beautifullake Wakamav/, which is the, lource of a fineriver of that name, and runs a South courfe feventyor eighty miles, delivering its waters into WMnyav/bay at George- tovvn. The Wakamav/ lake is twenty-fixmiles in circuit , the lands on its EafternIhores are fertile, and the fituation delightful,gradually afcending from pleafing eminences ;bounded on the North-Weft coaft- by vail richfwamps, fit for the production of Rice : the lake* See I'ome account of it in the IntrodiKlionn h 4 - is

•''47* TRAVELS INis twelve miles Weft from Moore*s, Efq*whofe viiia is on the banks of the North Weft.Proceeding again up the North Weft, crofted^Carver's creek, and ftopped at Aftiwood, the ancientleat Ox^ Colonel William Bartram. The houfeftand.s on the high banks of the river, near feventyfeet in height above the furface of the water ; thishigh bluff continues two or three miles on the river,and commands a magnificent profpeft of the lowlands oppofite, when in their native ftate, prefentingto the view grand forefts and expanfive Cane meadows: the trees which com.pofe thefe forefts are•geperallyof the following tribes, Qiiercus tindloria,Querc. alba, Querc. piiillos, Querc. aquatica, Querc.heaniJpherica, Fraxinus excelfior,Platanus occidentalis,liriodendron tulipifera, Liquidambar ftyraciflua,Ulmus, Tilia, Juglans hiccoi-y, Juglans cinerea,Juglans nigra, Morus rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus,Hopea tinftoria, NyfTa aquatica, Nyfla fylvatica,Carpinus, and many morej the Cupreftlisdifticha as ftateiy and beautiful as I have feen anywhere. When thefe lands are cleared of their timberand cultivated, they produce abundantly, particularlyW^heat, Zea, Cotton, Hemp, Flax, withvariety of excellent vegetables.This perpendicularbank of the river, by which the waters fwiftlyglide along, difcovers at once the various ftrataof the earth of this low maritime country. Forthe moft part, the upper ftratum confifts of alight, fandy, pale, yeliowilh miould or loam, forten or twelve feet in depth (except the flat levelland back from the riveis, where the clays ormarie approach very near the furface, and theridges of fand hills, where the clays lie muchdeeper) : this fandy mould or loam lies upon a.deep

:NORTH AMERICA.'47Jdeep bed of black or dark flate coloured falineand fulphiireous earth, which is compofed of horizontalthin flakes or lamin?e, feparated by meansof very thin, almoft imperceptible veins or ftrata offine micaceons particl'-s, which drain or percolate aclear water, continually exuding, or trickling down,and forming little rills and diminutive cataracfts, beingconduced by perpendicular chinks or fiflliresin fome places, a portion of this clear water ortranfparent vapour, feems to coagulate on the edgesof the veins and fiflures, leaving a reddifh curd orjelly-like fubftance flicking to them, which Ifhouldfuppofe indicates it to fpring from a ferrugineousfource, efpecially fince it difcovcrs a chalybeatefcent and tafte: in other places, thefe fiflures fhowevidently a cryftallization of exceeding fine whitefalts, which have an aluminous or vitriolic fcent:they are pyrites, marcafites, or fulphureous nodules,Jliining hke brafs, of various fize^ and forms, fomefingle and others conglomerated :other places prefentto view, ftrata of heterogeneous matter, lyingbetween the upper loamy flratum and the bedof black faline earth, confifting of various kinds offea fhells, fome whole, others broken to pieces,and even pulverized, which fill up the cavities ofthe entire fiiells, and the interftices betwixt themat other places we obferve, two or three feet belowthe furface or virgin mould, a ftratum of four,five, or fix feet in depth, of brownilh marie, on abed of teftaceous rocks; a petrifaction compofedapparently of various kinds of fea fhells, belemnites,fand, &c. combined or united with a calcareouscement : thefe malles of rocks are in fomeplaces detached by veins and ftrata of a heterogeneousearth, confifting of fea fhells and othermarine produiflions, as well as terreftrial, whichfeenn

474 TRAVELS mfeem to be foflile, or in fome degree of petrifac^tion, or otherwile tranfmuted, particularly thofecurious produclions called birds bills, or fliarksteeth (dentes carchariae), belemnites, &c. loofelymixed with a deficcated earth compofed of fandjchy, particles of marie, vegetable rubbifh, &c. Andagain v/e obferve fhells, marcafites, belemnites,dentes carchari^, with pieces of wood tranfmuted,black and hard as fea coal, fmgly intsrfperfed inthe black vitriolic flrata of earth : v/hen this blackearth is expofed to the fun and dry air, the littlethin lam.ins feparate, and fcon difcover a fine,white cryftaliization, or aluminous powder; but thisvery foon difappears, being again incorporated withthe general mals, which gradually diffolves or fallslike quick- lime, and appears then a grayifh, extremelyfine, dry micaceous powder, which fmellslike gun-powder.The North Weft of Cape Fear, here at Afliv^ood,is near three hundred yards over (when the ftreamis low and within its banks), and is eighty or ninetymiles above th€ capes. Obferved growing hereaboutsa great variety of very curious and beautifulflowering and fweet fcented (hrubs, particularly Callicarpa,/Efculus pavia, floribus coccineis, caule fuffruticofo,j^fculus fylvatica, floribus ex albo etcarneo eleganter variegatis, caule arboreo, Pteleatrifoliata, Styrax, Stewartia, Fothergilla, Amorpha,Myrica, Stillingia fruticofa, foliis ianceolatis, utrinqueglabris, fruftu tricocco, Olea Americana, foliislanceolaco-ellipticis, baccis atro-purpureis (Purpleberried bay), Catefby. Ilex dahoon, Cafl'ine Yapon,Azalea, varieties, Kahiiea, Cyrilla, Liquidambar peregrinum,Sideroxylcn, Andromeda lucida, &c-Leaving Ailiwood, and continuing up the Weft

y////'rPI.-,- W/i^/rn/z/yy//'/ ./'//// /////

fide of the river,a creek, five or fixNORTH AMERICA.47Jabout forty miles, in the banks offeet below the fandy furfacc, areto be feen projefting out many feet in length, trunksof trees petrified to very hard ftone; they lie betweenthe upper fandy ftratum and the commonbed of blackiih vitriolic earth ; and thefe ftone treesare to be feen in the fame fituation, (licking out ofthe perpendicular banks or bluffs of the river inthis region: there are feveral trunks of large treeswith their bark, ftumps of their limbs and roots,lying petrified on the find hills and Pine forefts,near the road about this creek, not far from the. faw-mills.Croffed Rock-fifh, a large branch of the NorthWefb, near its mouth or confluence, and at eveningarrived at Crofs-Crecks, another very confiderablebranch of the river, flov/ing in through itsWeft banks. This creek gave name to a fine inlandtrading town, on fome heights or fwelling hills,from whence the creek defcends precipitately, thengently meanders near a mile, through lower levellands, to its confluence with the river, afibrdingmod convenient mill-feats : thefe profpeds inducedactive enterprifing men to avail themfelves of fuchadvantages pointed out to them by nature; theybuilt mills, which drev/ people to ti:e place, andthefe obferving eligible fituations for other profitableimprovements, bought lots and erected tenements,where they exercifed mechanic arts, as fmiths, wheelwrights,carpenters, coopers, tanners, &c. And atlength merchants were encouraged to adventure andfettle: in fhort, within eight or ten years from agrift-mill, faw-mill, fmith-iliop and a tavern, arofea flourifliing commercial town, the feat of governmentof the county of Cumberland. The leadingmen

and47^ TRAVELS INmen of the county, feeing plainly the fuperioradvantages of this fituation, on the banks of afannous navigable river, petitioned the AiTemblyfor a charter to ennpower them to piirchafe a diftrift,fuiHcient for founding a large townj whichbeing granted, they immediately proceeded to markout its precincts, and named the new city Cambelton,a conplimient to Cambel, Efq^ a gentlemanof merit, and £. citizen of the county. V/hen I v/ashere about twenty years ago, this town was markingout its bounds, and diere were then about tv/cntyhabitations -, now there are above a thoufandhoufes, many wealthy merchants, and refpedlablepublic buildings, a vaft refort of inhabitants andtravellers, and continual brilk com.merce by waggons,from the back fettiements,with large tradingboats, to and from Wilmington, the feaport andflourilhing trading town on the Clarendon, aboutforty miles above the capes, which is about onehundred miles below this town. The Clarendonor Cape Fear river, has its fource in the Cherokeemountains, v/here its numjcrous confederate ftreamsunite ; after leaving the firft ridges of the mountains,itaffumes the name of Haw river, and courf-.ang the hilly fertilecountry, above one hundred andfifty miles, receives through its Weil banks theVveft bianch, called Deep River, and after thisiinion, tukes the name of the North- Weft of CapeFear, from whence, down to Cambelton, abouteighty miles it is navigable for perriauguas of confiderableburthen.Obferved near Cambleton a very curious fcandentFern (Pteris fcandens) rambling o\er lowbufhes, in humid fituations ; the lower larger frondswere digitated, or rather radiated, but towardsthe

NORTH AMERICA. 47-7the tops or extremities of the branches they becametrifid, haftatcd, and laftly lanceolate : it is a delicateplant, of a yellowifa lively green, and would be anornament in a garden.Sat off again to Cambelton, continuing yet upthe North Weft about fixty miles ; croifed overthis branch, and focn af:er crofied the Roanoke,and then refted a few days at Mr. Lucas's, a worthyold gentleman, a planter on Meherren river. Obfervedftrolling over his fences and flables, a veryfingular and ufeful fpecies of the Gourd (Cuciirbitalagenaria) ; its neck or handle is above two feet inlength, and not above an inch in diameter ; its bellyround, which would contain about a pint; it makesexcellent ladles, funnels, &c. At a little diflancefrom Mr. Lucas's, at the head of a Iwamp near thehigh road, I obfervtd a very curious fpecies ofPrinos, which grows feven or eight feet high, theleaves broad, lanceolate, iliarply ferrated, nervous,and of a deep green colour; but its flriking beautyconfifts in profufe clufters of fruir, colle6led aboutthe cafes or origin cf the laft fpring's fhoots ; thefeberries are nearly round, about the fize of middlinggrapes, of a fine clear fcarlet colour, covered or inveftedwith an incarnate mift or nebulas.Being now arrived on the South border of Virginia,and the hoary frigid feafon fir advanced, Ifhall pafs as fpeedily as poiTible from hence toPennfylvania, my native country; fince thofe cultivatedregions cf Virginia and Maryland, throughwhich I defign to travel, have been over and overexplored, and defcribed by very able men in everybranch of natural hiftory.After leaving Meherren, I foon arrived atAlexandria in Virginia, a fine city on die Weftbanks

4/8 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.Patowmac, about the 26th of Decem-banks of theber, lisving had exceJlent roads, and pleafant, mo-^derate weather, neither fnow nor ice to be feen, excepta flight fall of Ihow from a flying cloud, theday before I reached this place; but this eveningit clouded up from the Weft, the wind North-eaftand cold. Next morning the fnow was eight orten inches deep on the ground, and the wind Ihifcingto North-vv-eft, cleared up intenfely cold : I howeverfat off and croffed the river juft below the falls^and landed at George-town in Maryland. Thefnow was now deep every where around, the aircold to an extreme, and the roads deep under fnowor flippery with ice, rendered the travelling uncomfortable.Being now arrived at Wright's ferry, on theSufquehanna, I began anxioufly to look towardshome, but here I found almoft infuperable embarraffinents: the river being but half frozen over,there was no polTibility of crofTmg here ;but hearingthat people eroded at Anderfon's, about fivemiles above, early next morning I fat off again upthe river, in company with feveral travellers, fomefor Philadelphia : arriving at the ferry, we were joinedby a number of traders, with their pack-horfes loadedwith leather and furs, where we all agreed to ventureover together; and keeping at a moderate diftanceirom each other, examining well our icy bridge, andbeing careful of our fteps, we landed fafe on theoppofice ihore, got to Lancafter in the evening, andnext morning fat forward again towards Philadelphia,and in two days more arrived at my father'shoufc on the banks of the river Schuylkill, withinfour miles of the city, January 1778.

AN-ACCOUNTOF THEPERSONS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND GOVERNMENT,OFTHEMUSCOGULGES, or CREEKS,CHEROKEES, CHACTAWS, &c.ABORIGINES OF THE CONTINENT OFNORTH AMERICA.BYWILLIAM BARTRAM.

NORTH AMERICA.48 IPARTIV.CHAP I.DESCRIPTION OF THE CHARACTER, CUSTOMS ANDPERSONS OF THE AMERICAN ABORIGINES, FROMMy OWN OBSERVATIOVS, AS WELL AS FROM THEGENERAL AND IMPARTIAL REPORT OF ANCIENTRESPECTABLE MEN, EITHER OF THEIR OWN PEO-PLE, OR WHITE TRADERS, WHO HAVE SPENT MANYDAYS OF THEIR LIVES AMONGST THEM.PERSONS AND QUALIFICATIONS.J. H E males of the Cherokees, Mufcogulges,Siminoles, Chicafaws, Chactaws, and confederatetribes of the Creeks, are tall, erecl, and moderatelyrobuft j their limbs well ihaped, fo as generally toform a perfeft human figure ; their features regular,and countenance open, dignified and placid ; yetthe forehead and brow fo formed, as to ftrike youinftandy with heroifm and bravery ; the eye thoughrather fmall, yet aftive and full of fire j the iris alwaysblack, and the nofe commonly inclining to theaquiline.Their countenance and aftions exhibit an air ofmagnanimity> fuperiority and independence.Their complexion of a reddifli brown orcoppercolour ; their hair long, lank, coarfe, and black asa raven, and reflecting the like luftre at different expofuresto the light.The women of the Cherokees are tall, flender,ereft and of a delicate frame ; their features formedwith perfedl fymmetry, their countenance checr-I i ful

482 TRAVELS INful and friendly, and they move with a becominggrace and dignity.The Mufcogulge women, though remarkablyfliort offiature, are well formed ^ their vifage round,features regular and beautiful j the brow high andarched ; the eye large, black, and languifliing, exprefliveof modefty, diffidence, and bafhfulnefs;thefe charms are their defenfive and offenfive weapons,and they know very well how to play themoff, and under Cover of thefe alluring graces, areconcealed the anoft fubtile artifice j they are howeverloving and affeftionate : they are, I believe,tlie fmalleft race of womea yet known, feldomabove five feet high, and 1 believe the greater numbernever arrive to that ftature ; their hands andfeet not larger than thofe of Europeans of nine orten years of age : yet the men are of gigantic ftature,a fjll fize larger than Europeans ; many ofthem above fix feet, and few under that, or five feeteight or ten inches. Their complexion much darkerthan any of the tribes to the North of them that Ihave feen. This defcription will, I believe, comprehendthe Mufcogulges, their confederates, theChadaws, and I believe the Chicafaws (though Ibave never ken. their women), excepting howeverfome bands of the Siminoles, Uches and Savannucas,who are rather taller and flenderer, and theircomplexion brighter.The Cherokees are yet taller and more robuftthan the Mufcogulges, and by far the largeft raceof men I have leen * i their complexions brighter* There are, however, fome exceptions to this general obftrvntion, as Ihave myfolfwitncffed. Their preientc;raiul chief or emperor (the Little Carjjenter,Atta-kiil-kiTlla) is a man of remarkably fmall ftature, flciHler, andWa delicate frame, the enly iiiltance 1 law ia the nation: but he is a man>«f fuperior abilities.and

NORTH AMERICA. 48 j[and fomewhat of the olive caft, efpecially the adults;and feme of their young women are nearly as fairand blooming as European women.The Cherokees in their difpofitions and mannersare grave arid Heady; dignified and cir(?limfpe6l intheir deportment ; rather flow and referved in converfation;yet frank, cheerful, and humane ; tenaciousof the liberties and natural rights of man; fecret,deliberate and determined in their councils;honeft, juft and liberal, and ready always to ficrificeevery pleafure and gratification, even their blood,and life itfelf, to defend their territory and maintaintheir rights. They do homage to the Mufcogulgeswith reluflance, and are impatient under that gallingyoke. I was witnefs to a molt humiliatinglalh, which they palTivcly received from their redmafters, at the great ciongrefb and treaty of Augufla,v/hen thefe people acceded with the Creeks, to theceflion of the New Purchafe ; where were abouta great part of whomthree hundred of the Creeks,were warriors, and about one hundred Cherokees.The firft day of convention opened with fettlingthe preliminaries, one article of which was a demandon the part of the Georgians, to a territorylying on the Tugilo, and claimed by them boLh,which it feems the Cherokees had, previous tothe opening of congrefs, privately conveyed to theGeorgians, unknown to the Creeks. The Georgiansmentioning this as a matter fettled, theCreeks demanded in council, on v;hat foundationthey built that claim, faying they had never cededthefe lands. The Georgians anfwered, that theybought them of their friends and brothers theCherokees. The Creeks nettled and incenfcd atI i 2 this,

4^4TRAVELS INthis, a chief and warrior flarted up, and, with anagitated and terrific countenance, frowning menacesand difdain, fixed his eyes on the Cherokee chiefs,and afked them what right they had to give awaytheir lands, calHng them old women, and fayingthey had long ago obliged them to wear thepetticoat;a mofl humihating and degrading ftroke, inthe prefence of the chiefs of the whole Mufcogulgeconfederacy, of the Chicafaws, principal men andcitizens of Georgia, Carolina, Virginia, Marylandand Pennfylvania, in the face of their own chiefs andcitizens, and amidft the laugh and jeers of the afTembly,efpecially the young men of Virginia, their oldenemies and dreaded neighbours : but humiliating asit really was, they were obliged to bear the ftigmapaffively, and even without a reply.And, moreover, thefe arrogant braves and ufurperscarried their pride and importance to fuchlengths, as even to threaten tp dilTolve the congrefsand return home, unlefs the Georgians confented toannul the fecret treaty with the Cherokees, and receivethat territory immediately from them, as acknowledgingtheir exclufive right of alienation ;which was complied with, though violently extortedfrom the Cherokees, contrary to right and fan6tionof treaties ; fince the Savanna river and its waterswere acknowledged to be the natural and juft boundsof territory betwixt the Cherokees and Mufcogulges.The national charafter of the Mufcogulges,when confidered in a political view, exhibits aportraiture of a great or illuftrious hero. Aproud, haughty and arrogant race of men j theyare brave and valiant in war, ambitious of conquell,reftlefs and perpetually exercifing their5arms.

NORTH AMERICA.48^arms, yet magnanimous and merciful to a vanquifhedenemy, when he fubmits and feeks th-irfriendlhip and protection : always uniting the vanquifliedtribes in confederacy with them ; whenthey immediately enjoy, unexceptionably, eve yright of free citizens, and are from that momentunited in one common band of brotherhood.They were never known to exterminate a tribe,except the Yamnfees, who would never fubmiton any terms, but fou.\ht it out to the lad, onlyab ut forty or fifty of them efcaping at the lalldecifive battle, who threw themlelves under theprotection of the Spaniards at St. Auguftine.According to their own account, which I believeto be true, after their arrival in this country,they joined in alliance and perpetual amitywith the Britifh colonic in South Carolina andGeorgia, which they never openly violated ; buton the contrary, purfued every ftep to ftiengtheathe alliance; and their aged chiefs to this day,fpeak of it Avith tears of joy, and exult in thatmemorable tranfaCtion, as one of the moft gloriousevents in the annals of their nation.As an inftance of their ideas of political imj»artialjuftice, and homage to the Supreme Being,as the high arbiter of human tranfaCtions, whoalone claims the right of taking away the life ofman, I beg leave to offer to the reader's confideration,the following event, as I had it from themouth of a Spaniard, a refpedtable inhabitant ofEaft Florida.The fon of the Spanifli governor of St Auguftine,together with two young gentlemen, hisfriends and afTociates, conceived a dcfign of a-mufing themfclves in a party of fport, at hunt-I i^-ing

;4^6TRAVELS IN"mg and fifhing. Having provided themrelveswith a convenient bark, ammunition, filhingtackle, &c. they fet fail, directing dieir courfeSouth, along the coaft, towards the point of Florida,putting into bays and rivers, as conveniencyand the profped of game invited them. Thepleafing rural and diverfified fcenes of the Floridacoafl, imperceptibly allured them far to the fouth,beyond the Spanilli fortified poft. Unfortunateyouths ! regardlefs of the advice 'and injunctionsof their parents and friends, ftill purfuing the delufiveobrr^?, they entered a harbour at evening,with a view of chafing the roe-buck and huntingup the fturdy bear, folacing themfelves with deliciousfruits, and repofmg under aromatic fliadeswhen, alas ! cruel unexpected event ! in the beatificmOiiients of their {lumbers, they were furrounded,arretted and carried off by a predatoryband of Creek Indians, proud of the capture, forich a prize ; they hurry away into cruel bondagethe haplefs youths, conducting them by deviouspaths through dreary fwamps and boundlefs favannas,to the Nation.At that time the Indians were at furious warwith the Spaniards, fcarcely any bounds fet totheir cruelties on either fide : in Ihort, the miferableyouths were condemned to be burnt.But there were Englifh traders in thefe towns,who learning the characters of the captives, and expectinggreat rewards from the Spanilh governor,if they could deliver them, petitioned the Indianson their behalf, expreffing their wifrxCS to obtaintheir refcue, offering a great ranfom -, acquaintingthem at the fame time, that they were youngmen of high rank, and pne of them the gover-:.pr'sfon.Upon

:NORTH AMERICA.' 487Upon this, the head men, oi* chiefs of thewhole nation, were convened, and after folemnand mature deliberaion, thty returned the traderstheir final anAver and determination, whichwas as follows" Brothers and friends. We hive been confideringupon this bufinefs concerning the captiVes—andthat under the eye and fear of theGreat Spirit. You know that thefe people areour cruel enemies j they fave no lives of us redmen, who fall in their power. You fay that theyouth is the fon of the Spanifh governor ; we be^lieve it ; we are forry he has fallen into our hands,but he is our enemy : the two young men (hisfriends.) are equally our entmies ; we are forry tofee them here ; but we know no difference intheir flcfh and blood ; they arc equally our enemies-y if we fave one we muft five all three : butwe cannot do it; the red men require their bloodto appeafe the fpirits of their flain relatives ; theyhave entruiled us with the guardianfliip of ourlaws and rights, we cannot betray them." However we have a facred prefcription relativeto this affair, v.'hich allows us to extendmiCrcy to a certain degree : a third is laved bylot ; the Great Spirit allows us to put it to thatdccilion Jhe is no refpedler of perfons." Thelots were cafl. The governor's fon was takenandburnt.If we coniider them with ref[)e6t to tlieir privatechara6ler or in a moral view, they muff, Ithink, claim our approbation, if we divefb ourfelvesof prejudice and think freely. As moralmen they certainly ftand in no need of Europeancivilizadon,I i4 _They

;48 S TRAVELS INThey are juft, honeft, liberal and hofpitable toftrangers ; confidcrate, loving and affectionate totheir wives and relations ; fond of their children ;indiiftriuuSj tiugal, tenaperate and perfevering jcharitable and forbearing. I have been weeksand months amongft them and in their towns,and never obferved the leafl fign of contention orwrangling: never faw an inftance of an Indianbeadng his wife, or even reproving her in anger.In this cafe they Hand as examples of reproof tothe moft civilized nations, as not beino; defectivein juftice, gratitude, and a good iinderllandingfor indeed tlieir wives merit their elieem and themoft gentle treatment, tliey being induftrious,frugal, careful, loving and affeftionate.The Mufcogulges are more volatile, fprightlyand talkative than their Northern neighbours^ theCherokees j and, though far more diftant fromthe white fctdements than any nation Eaft of theMiffillipi or Ohio, appear evidently to have madegreater advances tov^/urds the refinements of truecivilization, which cannot, in the leaft degree,be attributed to the good examples of the whitepeople.Their internal police and family economy atonce engage the notice of European travellers,and incontroverdbly place thefe people in an illuftriouspoint of view: their liberality, intimacy,and friendly intercourfe one with another, withoutany reftraint of ceremonious formality, as if theywere even infenfible of the ufe or neceflity ot affociaiingthe pafllons or affections of avarice, ambitionor covetoufnefs.A man goes forth on his bufinefs or avocationsj he calls in at another town^ if he wanesvictuals.

NORTH AMERICA. 489victuals, reft or fecial converiation, he confidentlyapproaches the door of the firft houfe he choofes,faying " I am come j " the good man or womanrephes, " You are j it's well. " Immediatelyvi6iials and drink are ready ; he eats and drinksa little, then fmokes tobacco, and converfes eitherof piivate matters, pubiic talks, or the news ofthe town. He rifes and fays, " I go !" the otheranfwcrrs, " You do !" He then proceeds again,and fteps in at the next habitation he likes, orrepairs to the public fquare, where are peoplealways converfing by dav, or dancing all night,or to fome more private affembly, as he likes;he needs no one to introduce him, any more thanthe black-bird or thrufli, when he repairs to thefruitful groves, to regale on their luxuries, and entertainthe fond female with evening fongs.It is allonifliing, though a fa6l, as well as afharp rep (of to the white people, if they willallow therr'ftlves liberty to reflefl and form a jufteftimate, and I muft own elevates thefe people tothe firft rank amongft manK.ind, that they havebeen able to refift the continual efforts of thecomplicated hoft of vices, tha^ have for agesover-run the nations of the old world, and focontaniinated their morals ; yet more fo, fincefuch vaft armies of thefc evil fpiritb have invadedthis continent, and clofely invefted them on allfides. Aftonilhing indeed ! when we behold theill, immoial conduft of too many white people,who refide am.ongft them; notwithftanding which,it feems natural, eligible, and even cafy, for thefefimple, illiterate people, to put in practice thofebeautiful ledures delivered to us by the ancientfages and philofophers, and recorded for our inftruction.

490 TRAVELS IN"I faw a young Indian in the Nation, who whenprefent, and beholding the fcenes of mad intemperanceand folly a6led by the white men inthe town, clapped his hand to his bread, andwith a fmile, looked aloft as if flruck with aftonifhment,and wrapt in love and adoration to theDeity ; as who Ihould fay, " O thou Great andGood Spirit ! we are indeed fenfible of thy benignityand favour to us red men, in denying us theunderftanding of white men. We did not knowbefore they came amongft us that mankind couldbecome fo bafe, and fail fo below the dignity oftheir nature. Defend us from their manners, laws,and power."The Mufcogulges, with their confederates, theChaftaws, Chicafaws, and perhaps the Cherokees,eminently deferve the encomium of all nations,for their wifdom and virtue in refiftino; and evenrepelling the greateft, and even the common enemyof mankind, at leafl of moft of the Europeannations, I mean fpirituous liquors.The firfi: and moft cogent article in all theirtreaties with the white people, is, that there fhallnot be any kind of fpirituous liquors fold orbrought into their towns ; and the traders areallowed but two kegs (five gallons each) whichis fuppofed to be fufficient for a company, to fervethem on the road j and if any of this remains ontheir approaching the towns, they muft fpill it onthe ground or fecrete it on the road, for it muftnot come into the town.On my journey from Mobile to the Nation, juftafter v/e had pafled the jundlion of the Penfacolaroad with our path, two young traders overtookus on their way to the Nation. We inquiredwhat

NORTH AMERICA.40^what news ? They informed us that they were runningabout forty kegs of Jamaica fpirits (which bydafhing would have made at lead eighty kegs) tothe Nation j and after having left the town three orfour days, they were furprifed on the road in theevening, juft after they had come to camp, by aparty of Creeks, who difcovering their fpecies ofmerchandize, they forthwith ftruck their tomahawksinto every keg, giving the Uquor to the thirfty llmd,not tailing a drop of it themfelvesj and they hadenough to do to keep the tomahawks from their ownIkulls.How are we to account for their excellent policyin civil government j it cannot derive its influencefrom coercive laws, for they have no fuch artificialfyitem. Divine wifdom dilates, and they obey.We fee and know full well the direful effects ofthis torrent of evil, which has its fource in hell ; andwe know furely, as well as thefe favages, how to divertits courfe and fupprefs its inundations. Do wewant wifdom and virtue ? let our youth then repairto the venerable councils of the Mufcogulges.CHAP.

45^ TRAVELS lieCHAP. II.On their government and CIVIL SOCIETY.The conftitiition or fyftem of their police is fimplynatural, and as little complicated as that whichis fuppofecl to direft or rule the approved economyof the ant and the bee; and feems to be nothingmore than the fimple dilates of natural reafon,plain to every one, yet recommended to them bytheir wile and virtuous elders as divine, becaufe neceiTaryfor fecuring mutual happinefs :equally bindingand efFeftual, as being propofed and aflented toin the general combination : every one's confciencebeing a fufficient convi6lion (the golden rule, do asyou would be done by) inftantly prefents to view,and produces a fociety of peace and love, which inefFeft better maintains human happinefs, than themoft complicated fyftem of modern politics, ©rfumptuary laws, enforced by coercive means : forhere the people are all on an equality, as to the pofleffionand enjoyments of the common neceffariesand conveniences of life^ for luxuries and fuperfluitiesthey have none.This natural conftitution is fimply fubordinatejand the fupreme, fovereign or executive power refidesin a council of elderly chiefs, warriors andothers, relpedable for wifdom, valour and virtue.At the head of this venerable fenate, prefides theirmico or king, which fignifies a magiilrate or chiefruler: the governors of Carolina, Georgia, &c. arccalled micos; and the king of England is calledAnt-apala-mico-clucco*, that is, the great king,over or beyond the great water.* CIucco fi^iiificf great or excellent,The

NORTH AMERICA.The king, although he is4pjacknowledged to be thefirft" and greatefl man in the town or tribe, and honouredwith every due and rational mark of loveand efteem, and when prcfiding in council, with ahumility and homage as reverent as that paid to themoft defpotic monarch in Europe or the Eall, andwhen abfent, his feat is not filled by any other perfon,yet he is not dreaded ; and when out of thecouncil, he aflbciates with the people as a commonman, converfes with them, and they with him, inperfedl eafe and familiarity.The mico or king, though eledlive, yet his advancementto that fupreme dignity muft be underftoodin a very different light from the electivemonarchs of the old world, where the progrefs tomagiitracy is generally effecfled by fchifm and theinfluence of friends gained by craft, bribery, andoften by more violent efforts ; and after the throneis obtained, by meafures Httle better than ufurpation,he muft be protected and fupported there, bythe fame bafe means that carried him thither.But here behold the majefty of the Mufcogulgcmico ! he does not either publicly or privately begof the people to place him in a fituation to commandand rule them: no, his appearance is altogethermyfterious ; as a beneficent deity he rifes kingover them, as the fun rifes to blcfs the earth !No one will tell you how or when he becametheir king; but he is univerfally acknowledged tobe the greateft pcrfon among them, and he isloved, efteemed and reverenced, although he affociates,eats, drinks, and dances with them incommon as another man ; his drefs is the fame,and

494 "yRAVELS IWand a flranger could not diftinguifli the king'^s liabitationfrom that of any other cidzen, by any fort ofiplendour or magnificence ;yet he perceives theyaft as though their mico beheld them, himfelf invifible.In a word, their mico fecms to them tlie reprefentativeof Providence or the Great Spirit, whomthey acknowledge to prcfide over and influence theircouncils and public proceedings. Fie perfonallyprefides daily in their councils, either at the rotundaor public fquare : and even here his voice in regardto bufinefs in hand, is regarded no more thanany other chief's or fenator's, no farther than hisadvice, as being the beft and wifeft man of the tribe,and not by virtue of regal prerogative. But whethertheir ultimate decifions require unanimity, or only amajority of voices, I am uncertain j but probablywhere there is a majority, the minority voluntarilyaccede.The mofb aflive part the mico takes is in thecivil government of the town or tribe : here he hasthe power and prerogative of caUing a council, to deliberateon peace and war, or all public concerns, asinquiring into, and deciding upon complaints anddifferences j but he has not the leafl Ihadow of exclufiveexecutive power. He is complimented withthe firft vifits of ftrangers, giving audience to ambaffadors,with prefents, and he has alfo the difpofalof the public granary.The next man in order of dignity and power,is the great war chief: he reprefents and exercifesthe dignity of the mico, in his abfence, incouncil; his voice is of the greatcft weight, in.military affairs ; his power and authority are entirelyindependent of the mico, though when amico

NORTH AMERICA.49^mlco goes on an expedition, he heads the army, andis there the war chief. There are many of thefe warchiefs in a town or tribe, who are captains or leadersof mihtary parties ; they arc elderly men, who intheir youthful days have diftinguiflied themfelves inwar by valour, fubtiky and intrepidity ; and thefeveteran chiefs, in a great degree, conftitute theirtruly dignified and venerable fenates.There is in every town or tribe a high prieft, ufuallycalled by the white people jugglers, or conjurers,befides feveral juniors or graduates. But theancient high prieft or feer, prefides in fpiritual affairs,and is a perfon of confcquence ; he maintainsand exercifes great influence in the ftate, particularlyin military affairs ; the fenate never determine on anexpedition againft their enemy without his counfeland affiftance. Thefe people generally believe thattheir feer has communion with powerful invifiblcfpirits, who they fuppofc have a fhare in the ruleand government of human affairs, as well as the elements; that he can predift the refult of an expeditionj and his influence is fo great, that they havebeen known frequently to ftop, and turn back anarmy, when within a day's journey of their enemy,after a march of feveral hundred miles ; and indeedtheir predidiions have furprized many people.fbretelTheyrain or drought, and pretend to bring rain atpleafure, cure difeafes, and exercife witchcraft, invokeor expel evil fpirits, and even affume the powerof direfting thunder and lightning.Thefe Indians are by no means idolaters, unlefstheir puffing the tobacco fmoke towards theI fun, and rejoicing at the appearance of the new2 moon^

49^TRAVELS INmoon*, may be termed fo. So far from idolatryare they, that they have no images amongft them,nor any religious rite or ceremony that I could per--ceive ; but adore the Great Spirit, the giver andtaker away of the breath of life, with the moft profoundand refpedlful homage. They believe in afuture ftate, where the fpirit exifts, which they callthe world of Ipirits, where they enjoy different degreesof tranquillity or comfort, agreeably to theirlife fpent here : a perfon who in his life has been anindudrious hunter, provided well for his family, anintrepid and a6live warrior, juft, upright, and done^11 the good he could, will, they fay, in the world offpirits, live in a warm, pleafant country, where areexpanfive,green, flowery favannas and hi^h forefts,watered with rivers of pure waters, replenifned withdeer, and every Ipecies of game; a ferene, uncloudedand peaceful fl

:'NORTH AMERICA. 407ta me fo incredibly inhuman and liorrid, that it waswith the litmoft difficulty I adlimcd refoludon fuf-ficient to inquire into it.The traders afliired me that they knew no inftanceof fuch barbarifm ibut that there had beeninftances of the communities performing fuch adeed at the earneft requell of the vicftim.When I was at MucclafTe town, early one morning,at the invitation of the chief trader, we repairedto the public fquare, taking with us fome prefentsOn our arrival we took ourfor the Indian chiefs.feats in a circle c'i venerable men, round a fire mthe centre of the area : other citizens were continuallycoming in, and amongft them 1 was flruckwith awe and veneration at the appearance of a veryaged man : his hair, what little he had, was as whiteas fnow Jhe was conduced by three young men,one having hold of each arm, and the third behindto fteady him. On his approach the whole circlefaluted him, " welcome," and made way for himhe looked as fmiling and cheerful as youth, yetftone-blind by extreme old age : he was the moftancient chief of the town, and they all fcemed toreverence him. Soon after the old man had feated.himfelf, I diftributed my prefents, giving him avery fine handkerchief and a twill of choice tobacco,which pafled through the hands of an elderlychief who fat next him, telling him it was aprefent from one of their white brothers, latelyarrived in the nation from Charlefton : he receivedthe prefent with a fmile, and thanked me, returningthe favour immediately with his own Honepipe and cat fkin of tobacco: and then complimentedme with a long oration, the purport ofwliich was the value he fet on the friendfl^ip otK k'rhe

—;49^TRAVELS INthe Carolinians. He faid, that when he was a youngman they had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes, knives,razors nor guns, that they then made ufe of theirown ftone axes, clay pots, flint knives, bows andarrows ; and that he was the firft man who broughtthe white people's goods into his town, which hedid on his back from Charlefton, five hundred mileson foot, for they had no horfes then amongfb them.The trader then related to me an anecdote concerningthis ancient patriarch, which occurred notlong before.One morning after his attendants had led him tothe council fire, before leating himfelf, he addrelTedhimfelf to the people after this manner" You yet love me; what can I do now to merityour regard ? nothing j I am good for nothing ; Icannot fee to fhoot the buck or hunt up the fturdybear ; I know I am but a burthen to you j I havelived long enough; now let my fpirit go; I want tofee the warriors of my youth in the country of fpirits(bareing his breaft) here is the hatchet, take it andilrike." They, anfwered with one united voice," We will not; we cannot; we want you here/*CHAP.

:;KORTH AMERICA. 499O----'CHAP. III.Of their dress, FEASTS and DIVERTISEMENTS.The youth of both fexes are fond of decoratingthemfelves with external ornaments. The menfhave their head, leaving only a narrow creft orcomb, beglnniiig at the crown of the head, where itis about two inches broad and about the fameheight, and ftands frized upright; but this crefttending backwards, gradually widens, covering thehinder part of the head and back of the neck : thelank hair behind is ornamented witii pendant filverquills, and then jointed or articulated filver platesand ufually the middle fafcicle of hair, being by farthe longeft, is wrapped in a large quill of filver, orthe joint of a fmall reed, curioufly fcufptured andpainted, the hair continuing through it terminatesin a tail or taflel.Their ears are lacerated, feparating the border orcartilaginous limb, which at firft is bound roundvery clofe and tight with leather ftrings or thongs,and anointed with frelh bear's oil, until healeda piece of lead being faftcned to ir, uy its weightextends this cartilage to an incredible length, whichafterwards being craped, or bound round in brafsor filver wire,extends femicircularly like a bow orCrefcent; and it is then very elaftic, even fo as tofpring and bound about with the leaft motion orflexure of the body : this is decorated with fofcwhite plumes of heron feathers.A very curious diadem or band, about foiu"inches broad, and ingeniouQy wrought or woven,and curiouflv decorated with ftones, beads, wam.-K k i pun>.

;^Od TRAVELS INpum, porcupine quills, &c., encircles their templesthe front peak of it being embellifhed with a highwaving plume, of crane Or heron feathers.The clothing of their body is very fimple andfrugal. Sometimes a ruffled fhirt of fine linen,next the {kin^ and a flap which covers their lowerparts J this garment fomewhat refembles the an*cient Roman b -r'ches, or the kilt of the Highlanders; it ufuaily confifts of a piece of blue cloth,about eighteen inches wide ; this they pafs betweentheir thighs, and both ends being taken up anddrawn through a belt round their waift, the ends faildov/n, one before, and the other behind, not quiteto the knee ; this flap is ufuaily plaited and indentedat the ends, and ornamented with beads,tinfel lace, &c.The leg is furnilhed with cloth boots ; they reachfrom the ancle to the caif, and are ornamented withlace, beads, filver bells, &c.The ftillepica or moccafin defends and adornsthe feet ; it feems co be an imitation of the ancientbuflcin or ianda!, very ingenioufly made of deerJkins, dreflt;d veiy loft, and curioufly ornamentedaccording tO'flmcy.Befide this attire,they liave a large mantle of thefinefl cloth they are able to purchafe, always eitherof a fcarlet or blue colour ; tliis mantle is fancifullydecorated with rich lace or fringe round the border,and often with little round filver, or brafs bells.Some have a fliort cloak, juft large enough to coverthe flioulders and breailj this is mofl: ingeniouflyconftrudled, of feathers woven or placed in a naturalimbricated manner, ufuaily of the fcarlet feathers ofthe flamingo, or others of the gayeft colour.They

NORTH AMERICA.5^1They have large filvcr crefcents, or gorgets,which being fufpended by a ribband round the neck,lie upon the breaft j and the ai'ms are ornamentedwith filver bands, or bracelets, and filver and goldchains, &c. a collar invefts the neck.The head, neck, and breaft, are painted with vermilion,and Ibme of the warriors liave the fl^in ofthe breaft, and mufcular parts of the body, very curioiiflyinfcribed, or adorned with hieroglyphickfcrolls, flowers, figures of animals, ftars, crefcents,and the fun in the centre of the breaft. This paintingof the flefli, I underftand is performed in theiryouth, by pricking the fl

502 TRAVELS li^.But thefe decorations are only to be conliderei^as indulgencies on particular occasions, and the privileo-eof youth J as at weddings, feftivals, dances, &c.or when the men affemble to aft the war farce, onthe evening immediately preceding their march ona hoftile expedition : for ufually they are almoftnaked, contenting themfelves with the flap andfometimes a fhirt, boots and moccafins. Themantle is fcldom worn by the men, except at night,in the winter feafon, when extremely cold 3 and bythe women at dances, when it feryes the purpofe ofa veil; and the females always wear the jacket^flap, and bufkin, even children as foon or beforethey can walk ; whereas the male youth go perfeftlynaked until they are twelve or fifteen yearsof age.The junior priefts or ftudents conftantly wearthe mantle or robe, which is white j and they havea great owl fkincafed and fluffed very ingenioufly,fo vv^ell executed, as almoft to reprefent the livingbird, having large fparkling glafs beads, or buttons,fixed in the head for the eyes : this enfign of wifdomand divination, they wear fometimes as a creflon the top of the head, at other times the imagefits on the arm, or is borne on the hand. Thefebachelors are alfo diftinguifhable from the otherpeople, by their taciturnity, grave and folemn countenance,dignified flcp, and finging to themfelvesfong or hymns, in a low fweet voice, as they flroUabout the towns.Thefe people, like all other nations, are fond ofmufic and dancing: their mufic is both vocal andinitrumental ; but of the latter they have fcarcelyany thing worth the name 1 the tambour, ratdegourd,and a kind of flute made of a joint of reedor

NORTH AMERICA.5O3or die tibia of the deer's leg : on this inftrumentthey perform badly, and at beft it is rather a hideousmelancholy difcord, than harmony. It is onlyyoung fellows who amiife themfelves on thishowling inftrument; but the tambour and rattle,accompanied with their fweet low voices, producea pathetic harmony, keeping exaft time together,and the countenance of the mufician, at propertimes, feems to exprefs the folcmn elevated ftate ofthe mind : at that tiine there feems not only a harmonybetween him and his inftrument, but it inftantlytouches the feelings of the attentive audience,as the influence of an adtive and powerful fpirit;•there is then an united univerfal fenfation of delightand peaceful union of fouls throughout theaflembly.Their mufic, vocal and inftrumental, united, keepsexa6t time with the performers or dancers.They have an endlefs variety of fteps, but thernoft comn^on, and that which I term the moftf;ivil, and indeed the moft admired and pra(5lifedamongft themfelves, is a flow fliuflling alternateftep; both feet move forward one after tlie other,firft the right foot foremoft, and next the left, movingone after the other, in oppofite circles, i. e. firfta circle of young men, and within, a circle of youngwomen,moving together oppofite ways, the menwith the couric of the fun, and the females contraryto it;and the girls clap hands, and raife their flirill fweetthe men ftrike their arm with the open hand,voices, anfwering an elevated fliout of the men nrftated times of termination of the ftanzas; and thegirls perform an interlude or chorus feparately.To accompany their dances, they have fongsK k 4of

;504 TB.AVELS INof different clafTeSj as martial, bacciianalian andamorous ; which laft, I muft confefs, are extravagantlylibidinous Jand they have moral fongs, whichfeem to be the mpft efteemed and praftifed, andanfwer the purpofe of religious lectures.Some of their mofi: favourite fongs and dances,they have from their enemies, the Chaftawsj for itfeems thefe people are very eminent for poetry andmufic ; every town amongft them ft rives to exceleach other in compofing new fongs for dancesand by a cuftom amongft diem, they muft haveat leaft one new fong, for exhibition, at everyannualbuflc.The young muftee, who came with me to theMucclaffes from. Mobile, having Chaftaw blood in|iis veins from his mother, was a fenfible young fellow,and by his father had been inftrutTced in reading,writing and arithmetic, and could fpeak Engliflivery well. He took it into his head to travel intothe ChaiTraw country : his vie'^s were magnanimous,and his defigns in the higheft degree commendable,nothing lefs than to inform himfelf of every fpeciesof arts and fcicnces, that might be of ufe and advantagewhen introduced into his own country, butn^ore particularly m^ufic and poetry. With thefeviews he privately left the Nation, went to Mobile,and there entered into the fervice of the tradingcompany to the Chadiaws, as a white man ; his eafy,communicative, a6live and familiar difpofition andmanners, being agreeable to that people, procuredhim accefs every where, and favoured hisfiibtihy and artifice : "at length, however, theCli?ftaws hearing of his lineage and confanguiniiywith the Creeks, by the father's fide, pronoimcfdhini a Creek, and confequently an enemy

NORTH AMERICA. 505my and a fpy amongft them, and fecretly rcfolvcdto dilpatch him. The young philofophfr go^notice of dieir fiifpicions and hoftile intentions,jfn time to make his eicape ; dioiigh clofely purfued,he kept a head of his fanguinary purfuers,arrived at Mobile, and threw himfelf under theprotedlion of the Englifli, entered the fcrvice ofthe trader of MucclalTe, who was then fettin? offfor the Nation, and notwithftanding the fpeed withwhich we travelled, narrowly clcaped the ardourand vigilance of his purfuing enemies, who furprifeda company of emigrants, in the defarts ofSchambe, the very night after we met them, expectingto intercept him thereabout.The young traveller having learned all theirnioll celebrated new fongs and poetry, at a greatdance and feftival in the Mucclafle, a day or twoafter our arrival, the youth prefied him to give outfome of his new fongs ; he complied with theirentreaties, and the fongs and dance went roundv>/ith harmony and eclat. There was a young Chactawflave girl in the circle, who foon after difcoveredvery affefting fenfa^ions of affli6lion anddiftrefs of mind, and before the conclufion of thedance, many of her companions complimented herwith fympathetic fighs and tears, from their ownIparkling eyes. As foon as I had an opportunity,I inquired of the young Orpheus, the caufeof that fong being fo dillrclTing to the youngflave. He replied, that when fhe was lately takencaptive, her father and brothers were flain in thecontcft, and Ihe underftanding die fcnfe of thefong, called to remembrance the tragical fate ofher family, and could not forbear weeping at therecital.The

:|06 TRAVELS INThe meaning of the chorus was^All men muft furely die,Tho' no one knows how foon,Yet when the time fhall come.The tvcnt may be joyful.Thefe doleful moral fongs or elegies, have aquick and fenhble effect on their paflions, and difcovera lively affeftion and fenfibilicy : their countenancenow dejected, again, by an eaiy tranficionjbecomes gently elevated, as if in fokmn addrefs oriupplication, accompanied with a tremulouSjfweet,lamentable voice: a ftrangeris for a moment loft tohimfelf as it were, or his mind, aflbciated with theperfon immediately affeded, is in danger of revealinghis own diftrefs unawares.They have a variety of games for c^ercife andpaltimej fome particular to the men, fome to thefemale fex, and others wherein both fexes are engaged.The ball play is efteemed the moft noble andmanly exercife. This game is exhibited in an extenfivelevel plain, ufually contiguous to the townthe inhabitants of one town play againft another, inconlequence of a challenge, when the youth of bothfexes are often engaged, and fomiCtimes ftake theirwhole fubftance. Here they perform amazing featsof ftrength and agility.The game principally confiftsin taking and carrying off the ball from the oppofireparty, after being hurled into the air, midwaybetween two high pillars, v/hich are the goals, andthe party who bears off the bali to their pillar winsthe game ; each perfon lias a racquet or hurl, whichis an implement of a very curious conftrudtion,iorrcwhut reft'iinhling a ladk or little hoop-net,with

NORTH AMERICA. 507with a handle near three feet in length, the hoopand handle of wood, and the netting of thongs ofraw hide, or tendons of an animal.The foot ball is likewife a favourite, manly diverfionwidi them. Feafting and dancing in thefquare at evening, ends all their gamts.They have befides, feafts or feftivals almoft forevery month in the year, which are chiefly dedicatedto hunting and agriculture.The bufk, or feaft of firft fruits, is their principalfeftival; this feems to end the laft, and begin thenew year.It commences in Auguft> when their new cropsof corn are arrived to perfe(5l maturity : and everytown celebrates the bufk feparately, when their ownharvefl is ready.If they have any religious rite or ceremony, thisfeftival is its moft fokmn celebration.When a town celebrates the bufk, having previouflyprovided themfelves with new cloaths, newpots, pans, and other houfchold utenfils and furniture,they colle6t all their worn-out cloaths andother defpicable things, fweep and cleanfe theirhoufes, fquares, and the whole town, of their filth,which widi all the remaining grain and other oldprovifions, they caft together into one commonheap, and confume it with fire. After havingtaken medicine, and fafted for three days, all thefire in the town is extingniflicd. During this fallthey abftain from the gratification of every appetiteand paffion whatever. A general amnefty is proclaimed,all malefaftors may retiu^n to their town,and they are abfolved from their crimes, v/hich arcBOW forgotten,and they reilored to favour.6 On

50S'TRAVELSINOn the fourth morning, the high priefl, by rubbingdry wood together, produces new fire in thepublic fquare, from whence every habitation in thetown is fupplied with the new and pure flame.Then the women go forth to the harvefl field,whichand bring from thence new corn and fruits,being prepared in the befl manner, in various difhes,and drink withal, is brought with folemnity to thefquare, where the people are aiTem-bied, apparelledin their new cloaths and decorations. The menhaving regaled themfelves, the remainder is carriedoff and diftributed amongft the families of thetown. The women and children folace themfelvesin their feparate families, and in the evening repairto the pubHc fquare, where they dance, fing and rejoiceduring the whole night, obferving a properand exemplary decorum : this continues three days,and the four following days they receive vifits, andrejoice with their friends from neighbouring towns^who have purified and prepared themfelves.Q H A l^

NORTH AMERICA,5O9Chap.iv.Concerning PROPERTY, AGRICULTURE, ARTS an»MANUFACTURES.It has been faid by hiftorians, who have writtenconcerning the cuftonns and iifages of the aboriginesof America, that they have every tiling in common,and no private property; which are terms in myopinion too vague and general, when apphed tothefe people. From my own frequent opportunitiesof obfervation, and the information of refpe(^ablecharacl^^rs, who have Ipent many years amongft:them, I venture to fet diis matter in a juft viewbeforemy readers.I fhall begin with the produce of their agriculturallabours.An Indian town is generally fo fituated, as to beconvenient for procuring game, fecure from fuddeninvafion, having a large diftridl of excellent arableland adjoining, or in its vicinity, if pofTible on anilthmus betwixt two waters, or where the doublingof a river forms a peninfula. Such a fituation generallycomprifes a fufficient body of excellent landfor planting Corn, Potatoes, Beans, Squafh, Pumpkins,Citruls, Melons, &c. and is taken in with afmall expence and trouble of fencing,to (ccure thecrops from the invafion of predatory animals. Atother times however they choofe fuch a convenientfertile fpot at fome diftance from their town, whencrircumftances will not admit of having both together.This

5lOTRAVELS INThis is their common plantation, and the wlioli^town plant in one vaft field together; but yet thepart or fliare of every individualfamily or habitation,is feparated from the next adjoining, by anarrow ftrip, or verge of grafs, or any other naturalboundary.or artificialIn the fpring, the ground being already preparedon one and the fame day, early in the morning,the whole town is fummoned, by the Ibbnd ofa conch fhell, from the mouth of the overfeer, tomeet at the public fquare, whither the people repairwith their hoes and axes -, and from thence proceedto their plantation, where they begin to piantjnot every one in his own little diftridl, afTigned andlaid out, but the whole community united beginion one certain part of the field, where they plant onuntil finifhed ; and when their rifing crops are readyfor dreffing and cleanfing they proceed after thefame order, and fo on day after day, until the cropis laid by for ripening. After the feaft of the bufliis over, and all the grain is ripe, the whole towriagain afiemble, and every man carries off the fruitsof his labour, from the part firft allotted to him,which he depofits in his own granary; which isindividually his own. But previous to their carryingoff their crops from the field, there is a largecrib or granary, ere6ted in the plantation, whichis called the king's crib; and to this each familycarries and depofits a certain quantity, accordingto his ability or inclination, or none at all if he lbchoofes: this in appearance feems a tribute otrevenue to the mico; but in fad is defigned foranother purpofe, i. e. that of a public treafury,fupplied by a few and voluntary contributions,and to which every citizen has the right of freeand

;K'ORTH AMERICA. ^Msand equal accefs, when his own prlv.itc ftores aicconfumedj to ferve as a furplus to fly to for fuccour;to afTifl neighbouring towns, whofe crops mayhave failed; acconnmodate ftrangers, or travellersafford provifions or lupplies, when they go forth onhoftile expeditions ; and for all other exigencies ofthe flate : and this treafure is at the difpofal of theking or micoi which is furely a royal attribute, tohave an cxclufive right and ability in a corr.munityto diftribute comfort and ble flingsto the necclutous.As to mechanic arts or manufa61ures, at prefenr.they have fcarcely any thing worth obf^rvation,fince they are fupplied with nccefTaries, conveniences,and even fuperfluities by the white traders.The men perform nothing except erecting theirmean habitations, forming their canoes, ftonepipes, tambour, eagles tail or ftandard, and fomeother trifling matters ; for war and liunting are theirprincipal employments. The women are morevigilant, and turn their attention to various manualemployments ithey make all their pottery orearthen-ware, moccafins, fpin and weave the curiousbelts and diadems for men, fabricate lace,fringe, embroider and decorate their apparel, &c.&c.CHAP.

:512 TRAVELS iffC H A P. V/Of their, marriage and FUNERAL CEREMONIES,As to their marriage ceremonies, they are veryfimplcj yet differ greatly in the various nations andtribes. i'Lmongft fome of the bands in the Mufcogulgeconfederacy, I was informed the myftery isperformed after the following manner. When a'young man has fixed his a{]"e6fcions, and is determinedto marry, he takes a Cane or Reed, fuch asthey flick down at the hills of their Bean vines fortheir fupport: with this (after having obtained herparents' or nearetl relations' confent) he repairs todie habitation of his beloved, attended by his friendsand afTociates, and in the prefence of the weddingguefls, he fticks his Reed down, upright in theground ; when foon after his fweet-heart comesforth with another Reed, which fhe fticks downby the fide of his, when they are marriedthen they exchange Reeds, which are laid byas evidences or certificates of tte marriage, whichis celebrated with feafdng, mufic and dancing:each one of their relations and friends, at the wedding,contribute fomething towards eftablifhing thenew family. As foon as the wedding is over, thetown is convened, and the council orders or recommendsa new habitation to be conftrufted for theaccommodation of the new family : every man inthe town joins in the work, which is begun andfinilhed in a day's time.The greateft accomplifhments to recommend ayoung man to his favourite maid, are to prove himfelfa brave warrior, and- a cunning, induftrioushunter,^They

NORTH AMERICA. 513They marry only for a year's time, and, accordingto ancient cuftom, at the expiration of the yearthey rene^v the marriage: but there is feldom aninftance of their feparating after theyhave children.If it fhould fo happen, the mother takes the childrenunder her own proteflion, though the father isoblio;ed to contribute towards their maintenance duringtheir minority and the mother's widowhood.The Mufcogulges allow of polygamy in the utmoftlatitude ; every man takes as many wives as hechoofes, but the firfl is queen, and the others herhandmaids and alTociatcs.It is common for a great man amongft them,who has already half a dozen wives, if he feesa child of eight or nine years of age, who pleiifeshim, and he can agree with her parents or guardians,to marry her and take her into his houfe atthat age.Adultery is always puniflied with cropping, whichis the only corporal punifhment amonglt them ; anddeath or outlawry for murder ; and infamy for lefacrimes, as fornication, theft, &c. which producesfuch repeated marks and refle6lions of ridicule andcontempt, that it generally ends in voluntary banifliment; and thefe renegadoes and vagabonds are generallythe ruffians who commit depredations andmurders on the frontiers.The Mufcogulges bury their deceafed in theearth. They dig a four-fquare deep pit under thecabin or couch which the deceafed lay on, in hishoufe, lining the grave with cyprefs bark, wherethey place the corpfe in a fitting pofture, as if itwere alive j depofiting with him his ^gun^ toma-L 1hawk,

^14*l-RAVELS IWhawk, pipe, and fuch other matters as he had thegreatefi value for in his life-time. His eldeft wife,or the queen dowager, has the fecond choice of hispoffeffions, and the remaining effefts are dividedam.ongft his other wives and children.The Chaftaws pay their laft duties and refpe6l tothe deceafed in a very different manner. As foon asthe perfon is dead, they eredl a fcaffoid eighteen ortwenty feet high, in a grove adjacent to the town,where they lay the corpfe, lightly covered with amantle : here it is fuffered to remain, vifited andprotected by the friends and relations, until the flefhbecomes putrid, fo as eafily to part from the bones ;then undertakers, who make it their bufmefs, carefully[trip the fiefh from the bones, wafh and cleanfcthem, and when dry and purified by the air, havingprovided a curioufly wrought cheft or cofEn, fabricatedof bones and fplints, they place all the bonestherein ; it is then depcfited in the bone-houfe, abuilding ere(51:ed for that purpofe in every town.And when this houfe is full, a general folemn funeraltakes place ; the neareft kindred or friends ofthe deceafed, on a day appointed, repair to thebone-houfe, take up the refpeftive cofiins, and followingone another in order of feniority, the neareflrelations and connexions attending their refped:ivecoipfe, and the mukitude following after them, allas one family, with united voice of alternate Allelujahand lamentation, (lowly proceed to the placeof general interment, where they place the coffinsin order, forming a pyramid *i and lafUy, cover* Some ingenious men, whom I have converfed with, have given it as-Ihei. opinion, that all thofe pyramidal artificial hills, ufiially called India*,mounts, w^re raifed on thefe occafions, and ai* generally fepulchres. However,i am of a uirterent opinion.< all

NORTH AMERICA.JIJall over with earth, which raifes a conical hill ormount. Then they return to town in order of Iblemnproceflion, concluding the day with a feftival,which is called the feaft of the dead.The Chadbaws are called by the traders flats, orflat-heads, all the males having the fore and hindpart of their fkulls artificially flattened, or comprelTed; which is efFefted after the following manner.As foon as the child is born, the nurfe providesa cradle or wooden cafe, hollowed and fajfhioned,to receive the infant,lying proftrate on itsback, that part of the cafe where the iiead repofes,being fafliioned like a brick mould. In this portablemachine the httle boy is fixed, a bag of fand beinglaid on his forehead, which by continual gentlecompreflion, gives the head fomewhat the formof a brick from the temples upwards ; and by thefemeans they have high and lofty foreheads, floplngoff^ backwards, Thefe men are not fo neat in thetrim of their heads, as the Mufcogulges are, andthey are remarkably flovenly and negligent in everypart of their drefs ; but otherwife they are Hiid to beingenious, fenfible, and virtuous men ; bold and intrepid,yet quiet and peaceable, and are acknowledgedby the Creeks to be brave.They arefuppofed to be mod ingenious and induftrioushufbandmen, having large plantations,country farnns, where they employ much ot theirtime in agricultural improvements, after the mannerof the white people; by which means their territoriesare more generally cultivated, and better inha*bited, than any other Indian republic that we knowof. The number of their inhabitants is faid greatlyto exceed the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, althoughtheir territories are not a fourth pare as ex-L I d Voifive.or

5l6TRAVELS INtenfive. It appeared to me from obfervation, andwhat information I could get, that the Indians entertainrational notions of the foul's immortality, andof a future (late of fecial exiftence -, and accordingly,in order to inculcate morality, and promote humanhappinefs, they applaud praife -worthy aftions, as ^commendable and neceffary for the fupport of civilfociety, and maintaining the dignity and ftrength oftheir nation or tribe, as well as fecuring an excellentand tranquil ftate and degree in the world of fpirits,after their deceafe. And they fay the Great Spiritfavours all good and brave men.C H A P»

3NORTH AMERICA.^i"fCHAP. VI.LANGUAGE and MANNERS.The Mufcogulge language is ipoken throughoutthe confederacy (although confifting of manynations, who have a fpeech peculiar to themfelves),as alfo by their friends and allies, dieNatches. The Chicafaw and ChaiStaw, the Mufcogulgesfay are dialects of theirs.This language is very agreeable to the car,courteous, gentle and mufical: the letter R isnot founded in one word of their language: thewomen in particular fpeak fo fine and mufical, asto reprefent the finging of birds ; and vvhi.n heardand not feen, one might imagine it to be theprattling of young children. The men's fpeeciiis indeed more itrong and fonorous, but notharfh, and in no inftance guttural, and I behevethe letter R is not ufed to exprcfs any word, inany language of the confederacy.The Cherokee tongue, on the contrary, is veryloud, fomewhat rough and very fonorous, foundingthe letter R frequently, yet very agreeableand pleafant to the ear. All the Indian languagesare truly rhetorical, or figurative, affifting theirfpeech by tropes ; their hands, fiexure of the head,the brow, in fnort, every member, naturally aflbciate,and give their afliltance to render their harangueseloquent, perfuafive and effectual.The pyramidal hills or artificial mounts, andhighways, or avenues, leading from them to artificiallakes or ponds, valt tetragon terraces,L 1chunk

5lSTRAVELS INchunk yards,* and obeliilis or pillars of wood, aretlie only monuments of labour, ingenuity andmagnificence that I have feen worthy of notice,or remark. The region lying between Savannariver and Oakmulge, Eall and Weft, and fromthe fea coaft to the Cherokee or Apalacheanmountain, North and South is the moft remarkablefor thefe high conical hills, tetragon terracesand chunk yards. This region was poffeiTed bythe Cherokees, finee the arrival of the Europeans,but they were afterwards difpolTefTed by the Mufcogulges,and all that country was probably, manyages preceding the Cherokee invafion, inhabitedby one nation or confederacy, who were ruled bythe fame fyfiem of laws, cuftoms and language, butfo ancient that the Cherokees, Creeks, or the nationthey conquered, could render no account forwhat purpofe thefe monuments were raifed. Themounts and cubical yards adjoining them, feem tohave been raifed in part for ornament and recreation,and likewife to ferve fome other pubHcpurpoie, fince they are always fo fituated as tocommand the moft extenfive profped over thetown and country adjacent. The tetragon terracesfeem to be the foundation of a forcrefs i andperhaps the great pyramidal mounts, ferved thepurpofe of look-out towers, and high places forfacrifice. The funken area, called by white tradersthe chunk yard, very likely ferved the fameconveniency that it has been appropriated to,by the more modern and even prefent nations ofIndians, that is, the place where they burnt andotherwife tortured the unhappy captives that were* Chunk yard, a term given by the white traders, to the oblong fourf'juare yards, adjoining tlie high mounts and rotund; s of the modura IndiaIS— In the cciurc of thefs ftands the obelifk, and at eacli corner uf thef. trther end lUnds a (lave pofl or itrono- tlake, where the captivcj that arcburnt alive are bound.condemned

NORTH AMERICA. 519condemned to die ; as the area is furrounded bya bank, and fometimes two of them, one behindand above the other, as feats, to accommodate theIpedlators at fuch tragical fcenes, as well as theexhibition of games, Ihows, and dances. Fromthe river St. Juans, Southerly, to the point of thepeninfula of Florida, are to be feen high pyramidalmounts with ipacious and extenfive avenues,leading from them out of the town, to an artificiallake or pond of water j thefe were evidentlydefigned in part for ornament or monuments ofmagnificence, to perpetuate the power and grandeurof the nation, and not inconfiderable neither,for they exhibit fcenes of power and grandeur, andmuft have been public edifices.The great mounts, highways, and artificial lakesup St, Juans, on the Eaft fliore, jufl at the entranceof the great Lake George, one on die oppofiteIhore, on the bank of the Little Lake, anotheron Dunn's Ifland, a little below Charlottcviile,one on the large beautiful Ifland juft without theCapes of Lake George, in fight of Mount Royal,and a fpacious one on the Weft banks of theMufquitoe river near New Smyrna, are the moftremarkable of this fort that occurred to me -, butundoubtedly many more are yet to be difcoveredfarther South in the peninfula ; however I obfcrvednone Weftward, after I left St Juans, on my journeyto little St. Juan, near the bay of Apalache.But in all the reg;ion of the Mufco2:ulo;e country,South-Weft from tlie Oakmulge river quiteto tl'ke Tallapoofe, down to the city of Mobile,and thence along the fca coaft, to the Mifiifiipi,I faw no figns of mountains or highways, exceptat Taenfa, where were feveral inconfiderable co-L 14 nical

520 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.nical mountains ; and but one inftance of the tetragonterraces, which was at the Apalachucla oldtown, on the Weft banks of that river : here wereyet remaining confpicuous monuments, as vaft fourfquare terraces, chunk yards, &c. almoft equallingihofe eminent ones at the Oakmulge fields ; butno hisrh conical mounts. Thofe Indians have atradition Jthat thefe remains are the ruins ofan ancient Indian town and fortrefs. I was notin die interior parts of the Cha(5taw territories,and therefore am ignorant whether there are anymounts or monuments there.To conclude this fubjecl concerning the monumentsof the Americans, I deem it neceflary toobferve, as my opinion, that none of them that Ihave feen difcover the leaft figns of the arts, fciences,or architedure of the Europeans or otherinhabitants of the old world i yet evidently betrayevery fign or mark of the mofi diftant unciquicy.I N D E X.

''-INDEX.AGAVE vivipara -Alabama - - -Alachua I'avanna - -Alatamaha, voyage up theaccount of theAlligator Hole . - -. battle with anXIX1854751248Alligators, battle between two 1 16author attacked bv 117, 123brood of, numerous - 124.—— neih of - - - -125• old, feed on the young 126—— d-icribed - - - . ib.Amelia ifland - . _ - 6jAmite river ----- 4.23Ampelis garrulus - _ . 256Angelic I lucida - - . _325Animals and vegetables compared- . - _ xivAnimals, general obfervationon - - - - xri—— atFe6\ions of - - - xviimental faculties of - xviii1^ remarkable fragility of-parts of - - 194, 276influence of country on 21 +Annona, new fpecies of 18, 169Apalachucla - - - - _ 387Arum elculentum cultivatedfor food in Georgiaand Florida - - 467Arundo gigaiitea408Aiilus, various fpecies of 383Augufta, journey to - - 28delcribed - - - 32, 314.Author attacked by a fever 409violent diforder in theeyes -416, 418BBanks of the river St. Juanhigher than the adjacentplains - - 163Battle between cray-fi(h andgold-firti - - -two alligatorsBears.___-_43116478Bees, none in Weft Florida,though plenty in Eaft 411Birds, obfervations on - - xxion the mij;ratio:i of 280, 295of pafTage, American 285change their colour - 296wild, fing only at thetimeof incubation xxii, 299Boat, portable - - - -457Bream, golden - - - - 151great black or blue - 174great yellow, or particoloured- . - - ib.Bridge, Indian - - - - 443Brunlwick, town of - - 471Buffalo, not now to be foundwhere once numerous 44Bull fnakc 271Buttej-fliesx'XCaca'iA

INDEX.Caealia heterophylla - - 162Caftvis opuntia - - - - 161Cambelton ----- 4.76Cancer macroiirus, war of thegold-fifh on the -43Cane meadows, v;i it - - 231Canna Indica - . - - 424,Carica papaya - - - - 139Cat bird ------ 297Cattle, dreadful difeafe of - 205Cedar bird ----- 296Chadaws ----- 515Chameleon ----- 276Charleiton, voyage from Philadelphiato - - - ICharlotta ----- 91Chat, yellow hreafted - - 300Chicken Ihake - - - . 271Clarendon river - - - - 476Clay, fort of, eaten greedilyby cattle - - - - 39Cleome liipinifoiia - - - 423Cliffs, dei'cription of tlie - 433Coachwhip iiiake - - - 217Cochineal inleft . _ - j6iCollinfonia, fpecies of, febrifiigc409Colymbns Cauda elongata - 130Convolvulus difleilus - - 10 zCooiome town - - - - 394Conius florida - - - -399Cowe - . - - 350, 364Coweta ----- -387Cow-pen, account of a - - 308Cra'ie, flight of the - - - 144—— nefts and eggs of the - 199•• lavanna - - - . 218Creeks, Upper, alliance of,with the Engli 111 -53—— account of the 208,^163• Lower, or Siininoles - 209Crofs- Creeks - - - -475Crown bird ----- 296Crying bird - - - - -145CucTirbita Ingenarla - -477CuprefTus dilticha - - - 88new fpecies of - -409Curlews, Spanifh - - - 14.6Culcowilla, journey to - - 168defcription of - - - 189Cyprinus coronarius - - 151Deer, herd of - - ^ - 198Dionxa mufcipula - - xiii, 470Dog brought up to tend horfes 220Dove, ground - - - - SDyeing, bark of the gordonialafianthus ufeful in 169Eagles, various - - - - 2Earth, on the produce of thedifferent zones of the ix—— remarks on certain ftrataof 433Elks only to be found in theApalachean mountains----- 45Emberiza oryzivora - -294Ephemerae - - - . 78— 81Erythryna corallodendrum 169Falco pifcatorius - - - iFalling Creek - - - -339Fafcinating power of the rattleinake- - - - 263Febrifuge, virtues of a fpeciesof Collinfonia - - 409Felis cauda truncata - - 278Fern, curious fpecies of - 476Filli, red-belly - - - - 12vaft quantity of, in theriver St. Juana - - 121of prey and others livingpeaceably togetherin pellucid water- - 164, 166, 227Fifliing, mode of - - - 106Flat-rock ----- 374" "Flies, various fpecies ofFlorida, journey to - - -—— Eart, very good Indigomade in - - - -

Fort Prince George, Kcovve 318Fox 278— fquirrels ----- 279Fragility, extraordinary inanimals - '194, 276Franklinia Alatamaha - -465Frederics, town and fort of 60• •oyaiC to - - - - 303French iettlement - - - 431— — broken up by the Indians... - 43XFrogs, various fpecies of - 37sGarr, great brown fpotted 173Georgia, voyage to - -4*-— ifl ndson the coaft of 5, 65— —— why thinlyinhabited - - - 64Gerardea flainmea - - - 410Glafs-fnake - - - - - 193GoljJ iilh, war of, on theCray iifh . - - - 43dtfcribed - . - - 44G.,pher ----- 18, 180Gr-nlonia lalia'thus - - 159Giiuid, ufcful fpecies of - 477Grape vmes - . - - 84, 398Grajjfs, Indian mode of prefeiving- - - - 398Gr^.fs, p«culiar fpecies of - itSGraves, Indian - - - - 137Green fnake - - - - 271Grus pratenfis, flight of the 144—— nefts ;

•migrationIIndians, treaties with the 33, 235fcod of . - - . 28plunder the ftores - 61—— matters accominodatedwith the - - - . 75virtuesof 22,110,208,488—— veneration of, for therattlefnake - - - 258—— form of falutation a»mongft - - . - 182—— vifit to the - - - Jb._— manners and culloms ofthe 182, 184., 189; 207,—— habitations of the 189, 365,386, 395, 4.^14—— vices cf the - - . 210wars of the - 211,390of the - - 378maffacre of the wiiitesby -. - - 388 }ioteroving- difpofition of the 389• carry off a party of emigrants- -—— murder fome white tra-444vellers - - -—— hunting party of -party of, in pinfuit ofan adulteier - -fondnefs of, for fpiritsConference with -perfons and qualificationsof the -—— government and civilfociety of th.e492drel's, feafts, and diverfionsof - - - -499property, agriculture,aits', and manufactaresof the509- marriage ceremonies ofthe "- -funeral ceremonies of the 513Indigo, very good, made inEalt Florida - - 75Iponiea; fpccies of - - - 37.).J/cvi ore - - - 221, 376, 4cIlhiiids on tlie coaft of Georgia- - - . 5, 65why thinlyir.habitcd - - - 64floatir.g - - _ _ 85in Lake George - jcoiile of PaiiHS - - - - 155INDEX.23524Z243253- 4SIJelly, Indian - - - .Jore jiioujitains - - - -Journey to Cufcowilla - -to Talahalochte - -—— from Charlellon to theCherokee country _Jover the Jore mountainfjom Fort Charlotte toWeit Florida - -from Apalachucla toMobile . . - .from Savanna to Philadelphia- - _ .Juglans, inanner in vrhich theIndians ufe the fruitof a Ipccies of - -K239360i6g21330635737339446738Kalniia, new fpecies of - jgKeowe ---_._ jjgLacerta, fpecies of - 170,Lake Ouaquaphenogaw•George - _ _ _La.itana camerara - - -Laurel magnolia - . _Lettuce, Indian - . _Liliei ty, obiervations onLime, v/ild - - - - _Liznrd, fpecies of - 170,---_..Lupi;i, fpecies of - - .LynxM2762499101834218411227619278Magnolia, laurel - . - 85peculiar fpecies of 159,338grand 1 flora169auriculataMalva, various fpecies ofMar,ate fpring - - -Aleieagris occidentalis -Alice, white - _ _Milk, hiccory3373^5- 22814, 81- 277- 38Mimofa

-7INDEX.Mimofa fenfitiva,new fpcciesof - - - - 24.virgata - - - - 419pudica - - - - 4.18MilTiffippi river - - - - 425Mobile, journey from Apalachiiclato - - - 3(^4town of - - - - 402Moccafni fnake - - 268, 269Mora] principle of an Indian,remarks on the - - 22Motacilla trochilus - - 300Mount Royal . - - - 96MudHfh 1-4Mufcicapa vertlce nigro - 297Mufcle, horned - - - - 431Myrica inodora - - - 403NNatural produciions, obfervationson - - - XNew-Sinyrna - . - _ j^jNympha;a nelumbo - - 407Nyfla coccinea - - - - 17OOak, black - - - - . 37live 82Ocean appears to have gainedon the land of America 66Oenothera grandiflora - - 404Oil, fweet, obtained from thefruit of the live oak 83Glive, Indian . - - - 41Picoiati, fort - - . - 7!Pigeons, niode of catching 467Pine I'nake - - - . . 27*Piltia ftratiotcs - - - - 86Pitch, how made from tar 41Plains, barren - - . . 340Plants various, obfervationson - - - - - Xnew 16,31,393,415,434,465, 466Plum, new fpccies of - - 421Pot, Indian, curious - - 6Prinos, curious fpecies of 477Piittacus Carolinicnlis -299Pteris fcandens - - - - 47^RRanae, various fj^ecies of - 272Rat, large ground - - - 7wood ----- I2»Rattlefnake, veneration of theIndians for the - 25!account of the - - 26afafcinates its prey - 263—— docs no injury uniefsattacked - - 262, 264balbrd, or ground - 270Rhododi-ndron, fpecies of -334Ribband fnake - - - - tjtRice, culture of - - - - ijRice bird . - - . _29^.River, remarkably cleav - 221Robinia, fpecies of - - -335Rocky point - - - - 166Ruins, Indian . - - 57,5;—— of a French or Spanifhfoit 51Palm tree ----.113Palmetto loyal - - - -69Panicimi hirtellum - - - 428Parakeet ----- 299Pearl Ifland - - - -419Pelican defcribed. . - 68m wood ----- 149Penfacola, account of - -413Petrifaftions - -473>475Phyfic-nut ----- 41Pica glandaria cerulea nonc..\ .' - - - 170Sage, tall blue - - - -Saint John's, voyage toJiian, Little, ri\erSimon, account of theidand of - - -Salt, fondnefs of horfiisforSarrjcenia fiava - - - -. lacunofa - . - -Savanna, journey from, toAugufta . - -Sea cuw - - .4i»6SS635+XII+ >52923aScniitivo

. variousVINDEX.Senfitive plant, new fpecies of 24. Trout, American mode ofShells, follile, hill of - - 316 catching - - - 106Silphium, fpecies of - - 396 defcribed - - - - 107Siminoles, account of the 209, 436 Turkey, American - i+j 8tSinica, town of- - - - 327Sink, great - - - - 201Slaveiy, obfervations on - 184."Slaves, on the treatment of 309Similax pfeudo-china ufed as ^^le town 386food ----- 239Snake, conilift of a, wilh ahawk - - - - 216Snake bird -----130.Snakes, various kinds of 193,Verbena, fpecies of - - 434.^217,262—72 Vulturfacra - ... 448Soils, obfervations on 23,29, —— aurea ----- 150168, 397, 420, 429Spaniftifettlement, remains of 231Squirrel, various fpecies of 279^^Standard, Creek - - - 149 „. , , ,Stores plundered by the In-Wampum fnake - - - 269dlans - - - - 61 W-jrs of the Indians 2ii,39

Dire5fions to the Binder.Place the Map at the beginning of the work.—— Plate I to face - - - - - p. j 3. — 2 to follow Plate i .— —.— 3 to face ....-p-

Deacidified using the Bookkeeper processr^leulralizing agent: Magnesium OxideTreatment Date: Dec. 2003PreservationTechnologiesA WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATION1 1 1 Thomson Park DriveCranberry Township. PA 16066(724)779-2111