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Next we have to glue walls togetherat the joint between Walls #2 and #3. Tomake sure that I have the angle, I put allthe walls together in the location on thelayout. This way, I know that the wallangles are correct. I then clamped thewalls together, ran some glue down thejoint, and let it dry. Our building walls areall together now (Photo 11), but there are1114150.040” thick. Photo 18 shows you howthey are made. The dock can be made to18still some things missing, like the roof andthe shipping docks.Making a RoofRemember back in Part 11 of thearticle, I said you needed a large sheet of0.040” styrene (2’ x 1’)? We’ll use that tomake the roof. Put the building upsidedownonto the styrene sheet, aligningthe edge of Wall #1 to the corner of thesheet and running the same wall alonga straightedge (Photo 12). Now, tracealong the inside of the walls with a pencil(Photo 13). Once this is done, cut out1213the roof section from the sheet and glueit into place on the building (Photo 14).When the glue sets, you can paint it withPolly Scale Grimy Black paint (Photo 15).I find that this color gives the effect of atar-and-gravel roof.Now, it’s time to add some details. As28 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’0716you can see in Photo 16, I’ve put on someroof vents (Berkshire Valley #409 CycloneVents) and a chimney made from twoGrandt Line chimneys spliced together.The last detail is a water tower, which ismade by Walthers for HO, It is assembledper the instructions, and the only modificationwas to cut out every other rung onthe ladder. I painted it in the same greenas the windows and doors. Well, the roofis done, so now we’ll turn our attention tothe docks.Making the DocksThe two docks that you can see inPhoto 17 are made from some scraps of17styrene. The top is made from 0.060”thick sheet and the sides and front arewhatever size you need; if you want oneto run the length of the wall, go ahead.Mine were made to be a little wider thanthe dock door. I painted them with PolyScale Concrete, then gave them a chalkwash once the paint had dried. Theywere then glued in place. The other littledetail is the two lamps over the docks,made from Grandt Line lampshadesand a piece of brass wire. Once theywere painted, a hole the size of the wirewas drilled into the wall and the lampssecured with CA glue.The building is now finished, put intoplace and the scenery around it finishedoff (Photo 19). As you have seen from19the four parts of my article, constructinga DPM building is not that difficult.All that is needed is a little patience andtime. About 25 hours was spent makingthis building but, as you can see in Photo20 on the next page, it was worth it.Although it is a backdrop building, it addsso much to the scene.We have covered trackwork, scenery,and buildings so far in this series. The onething that is still missing is something thateveryone will need on their layouts. Weneed roads for the automobiles. In thenext three parts of this series, I will showyou how to make grade crossings, andhow I make and finish roads.So until next time...Happy Modeling.u
20*Shipping:$5.95 for 1 car; $6.95 for 2 or 3 carsAvailable in two road numbersPayPalSpecial Run Exclusive toPhiladelphia Quartz 70-ton Hopperamhobbiesonline.com3-Rail (8377)$51.95*6 Delmar Ridge Drive • Wellsboro, PA 16901(570) 723-18242-Rail (9377)$54.95*amhobbies2@hotmail.comAdvertise inO Scale Trains!Reach 2-Rail and3-Rail scale modelerswho want whatyou have to sell.Contact Jeb Kriigel(jeb@oscalemag.com).Mar/Apr ’07- O Scale Trains • 29
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