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www.bantamodelworks.comB R U M M Y ’ SPREMIUM GROUNDRUBBER BALLASTScale or Hi-Rail Size:Limestone White, Gray NewEarth Colors! (All sizes) Dry Dirt,Rich Dirt (Darker), Sand BoxBeige (Brighter) Coal - All Sizes.WE NOW TAKE VISA, M/C, and AMEXPhone: 330-825-3673Fax: 330-825-0214200 23rd St. NW • Barberton, OH 44203email: Dbrumagin4@netscape.netCURVESINONEPIECEtotheradiusofyourFlex,Sectional,orHandLaidTrackNOSANDINGNOSEALINGmadeintheUSASilver Plume Houselaser cut wood building kit desinged from theoriginal building in silver Plume Colorado,the kit features laser lattice and picket fenceand reasonalby easy assembly...footprint is 8 1/2” x 9 1/4”#6091 O scale $134.95421 Hopkins RoadDummerston, VT05301800-653-8214Samples?Specifyscale/gauge (2railor3rail)andsend$1cashtoHOBBYINNOVATIONSDeptAPOBox676MountainCityTN37683RemoteControl Systemsof New EnglandSales and Service East of MississippiRemote Controls for “O” ScaleTrains. Batteries, Chargers,Sound Systems, and Installations.Systems starting at $170Don SweetPhone: (603) 321-1347Email: dsweet@rcs.mv.comwww.remotecontrolthrottles.comRTR ‘O’ Scale Freight CarsWooden Reefers 2 road numbers eachRC-0519 PFE 47' double colored herald, Dec.RC-0543 PFE ‘Meat Service’ 47' double coloredherald, Dec.10,000 Gallon Tank Cars 4 road numbers eachRC-0351 UTLX black Type 103 W, Jan.RC-0352 SHPX black Type 103 W, JanRC-0380 Warren* silver Type 103 W, JanRC-0369 Richfield* black Type 103 W, Jan*Indicates this is an older kit made into RTR.Visit our web site at www.red-caboose.com • Couplers are included for consumer to installSP & PFE are registered trade marks of Union Pacifi c, used under license.Red Caboose, P.O. Box 200, La Salle, Colorado 80645 • 970-284-6830 • Fax 970-284-6812 • StackTalk@aol.com26 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’0742' 10" Flat Cars 4 road numbers each nameRC-0262 NYC (brown) Sept.RC-0273 U. S. Army (OD green) Sept.RC-0264 N.P. (black) Sept.RC-0269 PRR (oxide) Nov.RC-0272 SP (brown) Nov.
Building a Small O Scale LayoutPart FourteenMichael CulhamOur walls are all done and ready tobe put together into a finished building(Photo 1).1grimy black paint onto the backs of thewindow glaze (Photo 4). This keeps you478Before doing this, there are a fewthings that have to be done. The first isthe glazing in the windows. To do this, Itook some clear 0.015” styrene sheet, cutit into panels measuring 2-1/4” x 3-1/2”,and laid them over the window areas onthe back of the walls. I then ran some liquidplastic cement around the edges; thecement will creep in under the sheet andbond it to the walls (Photo 2). The next2step is to take some 0.125” x 0.125” styrenestrip and glue it along the joint linebetween the cornice and the wall material(on the back of the wall, of course).Photo 3 shows this step; these strips are3from seeing into an empty building. Now,if you are very ambitious, you couldmake a full interior for your factory andnot paint the backs of the windows. Me?I’ll paint them. By the way, in Photo 4you can see that I painted the brick coloralong the top inside edge of the wall,above the roofline. This is only done onWall #1, because it is the only wall youcan see the back of.With all these little chores out of theway, we are now ready to put the wallstogether into a building.Putting the Building TogetherThe first thing I did was to glue Walls#1 and #2 together (Photos 5 & 6). Then,56some large X-Acto clamps to hold thewall sections while gluing them together.This helps to hold them at right angles, aswell as holding them tightly together fora strong joint. With the walls clamped, Iran some liquid plastic cement down thejoint, then glued a strip of 0.125” x 0.125”styrene along the inside joint to help supportit. Once the glue has set, remove theclamps. I had a slight problem with a gapat the corners of Walls #1 and #2 (Photo9). This was quite easily fixed by a trick Ilearned years ago. Make a downspout torun along the gap, using a piece of wire orstyrene rod (Photo 10). No more ugly gap.910necessary to support the roof when weget it made. The last thing I do is to paintI did the same with Walls #3 and 4. Theseare the walls that are at right angles. InPhotos 7 and 8, you can see that I usedMar/Apr ’07- O Scale Trains • 27
Page 5 and 6: Celebratingthe art of1:48 modelingI
Page 7 and 8: Osprey Lakes & Northern 2-10-0 #571
Page 9 and 10: OL&N #208 drifts past the beach at
Page 11 and 12: It’s hard to believe that OST is
Page 14 and 15: Adding Character To A LayoutMike Co
Page 16 and 17: Custom Building, Repair & Painting
Page 18 and 19: Autumn LeavesBy now most of us have
Page 20 and 21: A Backwoods SawmillCharlie Flichman
Page 22 and 23: sawdust blower shafts.. The sawdust
Page 24 and 25: alive, it’s fun and produces a on
Page 28 and 29: Next we have to glue walls together
Page 30 and 31: Visit theO Scale Trains Magazine Bl
Page 32 and 33: The Art of FinescaleMichael Cougill
Page 34 and 35: MTH 2-Rail LocomotivesATSF Northern
Page 38 and 39: • Terrific inspiration and just p
Page 40 and 41: AMERICAN "0" SCALEPROFESSIONALSERVI
Page 42 and 43: Eagle’s NestPaint Work — 2 week
Page 45 and 46: 11hot glue to the splines that supp
Page 47 and 48: ig deal, though, as the manuals for
Page 49 and 50: PULLMAN 12-1 SLEEPERS IN ABSGolden
Page 51 and 52: REVIEW: Scenic Express Model Landsc
Page 53 and 54: REVIEW: Searchlight SignalsSL-25 2/
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Page 71 and 72: ATLASOSCALE - Locomotives! Tankers!

(jeb@oscalemag.com). - O Scale Trains Magazine Online

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