Young boy at a festival, ApiaSamoaSubmit to the languid charm of Samoa and youmay never, ever want to leave. Another enthrallingcombination of blinding white beaches, lushvegetation, extinct volcanic craters and plungingwaterfalls, Samoa is spectacularly beautiful and afascinating place to explore Polynesian history andculture. Traditional customs and values areparticularly strong here and visitors are warmlywelcomed to engage in special events andcelebrations. ‘Easy-going, merry and leisure-loving’is how Robert Louis Stevenson described thelocals in the 19th century, and not much haschanged since. Time seems to pass more slowlyhere and it is a great place to just sit back and takestock. The two principal islands of Upolu andSavai’i are scattered with areas of tremendousnatural beauty from dramatic mountains andpristine beaches to stunning sea cliffs, idyllicswimming holes and striking lava flows justwaiting to be explored.Upolu & ApiaUpolu is Samoa’s second largest and mostpopulated island, home to the bustling butlaid-back capital of Apia. The gentle coastal roadwinds around glorious bays and beaches to sleepylittle villages each of which is structured around avillage church and central malae, or green, makingthe communal way of life easy to observe.The north coast is rocky and wild, while the southcoast offers a series of white-sand beaches. Inland,the mountainous interior shelters tumbling fallsand incredible tropical vegetation. Renting a carand exploring the island is a great way to discoverits charms. Driving the Cross Island Road revealsmany of Upolu’s highlights including Villa Vailima,Robert Louis Stevenson’s former home just southof Apia, Papapapai Tai Falls, a spectacular cascadeplunging 150 metres, and O Le Pupu-Pu’eNational Park with its glorious hiking trails and lavatubes. You can also visit Mount Vaea, the burialplace of Robert Louis Stevenson, as well as oneof only seven Baha’i temples in the world.Along the south coast waterfalls and naturalswimming holes are the main draw, along withthe stunning Lalomanu Beach. Apia itself is alsowell worth exploring and the food and craftmarkets are great places to people-watch or pickup local delicacies.Sinalei Reef Resort, UpoluSinalei Reef Resort, UpoluThe island’s foremost resort, Sinalei Reef Resortoffers a range of accommodation from simpleguest rooms through to superb beachside suites.Complemented by lush gardens, a simply styledover-water restaurant serving high quality cuisine,white-sand beaches and a refreshing swimmingpool, the resort offers impeccable service andevery comfort you could imagine. The watersportscentre offers diving, snorkelling and surfing whilethere are also tennis courts and numerous localexcursions available.Villa Vailima, Upolu82Collecting coconuts, Samoa
Waterfall in UpoluMusician, SamoaChurch in Apia, Upolu Spearfishing, Samoa Le Lagoto, Savai’iSavai’iLarger than Upolu, Savai’i has a remote andslightly wild feel about it. The coastline boastssome superb beaches, but not all are protected byreefs so in places the waters can be quite fierce.The volcanic interior provides a stunning backdropand the harsh scars of relatively recent volcaniceruptions slash through the lush greenery down tothe blue Pacific Ocean. There are many places ofinterest to visit, including lava tubes (volcanic cavesformed by lava flows), blowholes and tracts ofuntouched forest making Savai’i far more than justa beach destination.Le Lagoto, Savai’iLe Lagoto means sunset, an apt name for thiswell-located resort. Set on a stunning white-sandbeach, this small and intimate property housesjust ten spacious, tastefully decorated bungalowsall with air-conditioning and private deck areaswith hammocks. The excellent restaurant serves agood range of dishes with an emphasis on localfish and seafood, and simpler snacks are availablefrom the pool bar. The pool itself looks out overthe beautiful lagoon and you can snorkel directlyfrom the beach.Seabreeze, UpoluSeabreeze, UpoluSeabreeze is a beautiful, small property locatedon the picturesque southern coast of Upolu.With just six rooms, housed in two-room units,it is a great spot to enjoy the peace and tranquillityof this secluded location. The resort is nestled intoa dramatic cove enclosed by steep hills and theprotected waters make for great snorkelling andkayaking, while keen surfers will find the breakersare only a short swim away. The excellentrestaurant is perched on the edge of the rocksmaking it a great spot for a sundowner andsome wonderful local cuisine. It is a short driveto the stunning Lalomanu beach or across theisland to Apia.Faiaai Beach, Savai’i Islandwww.audleytravel.com/southpacific l 01993 838 830 l The South Pacific 83
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