Fabric Science Swatch Kit - Fairchild Books

J. J. Pizzuto’s 

FABRIC SCIENCE 

SWATCH KIT Tenth Edition 

allen c. cohen 

ingrid johnson


Swatch Kit



tenth edition 

Swatch Kit 

Allen C. Cohen 

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York 

Ingrid Johnson 


Before removing rubberbands from 

fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting the 

Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.” 

FAIRCHILD BOOKS 

New York

Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias 

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Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta 

Copyeditor: Jeff Klingman 

Ancillaries Editor: Noah Schwartzberg 

Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter 

Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel 

Cover Design: Carolyn Eckert 

Text Design and Page Layout: Tronvig Group 

Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications. 

All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be 

reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, 

including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval 

systems—without written permission of the publisher. 

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 

ISBN: 978-1-60901-358-5 

GST R 133004424 

Printed in the United States of America 

MC01, MC06

Key to Fabric Swatches 

How to Use the Fabric Science Swatch Kit 

Assignments 

Mounting Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets 

Using the Pick Glass 

What’s in a Fabric Name? 

Assignments 

Assignment 1 / Fibers: 

To Relate Fiber Properties to Product Use 


To Show Variety of Types of Fabrics Made of 

the Same Fiber 


To Evaluate Textile Absorbency 


To Identify Fibers by Solubility 


To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content 

Assignment 6 / Yarns: 

To Evaluate Yarns 

CONTENTS 

A v F 


To Examine Different Yarns of the Same Fiber 

Content 


To Determine Yarn Structure 

Assignment 9 / Woven Fabrics: 

To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure 


To Create Basic Weaves 


To Study a Fabric with an Uncut Pile Weave 


To Determine “V” and “W” Shape Cut Pile 

Interlacings 


To Reproduce a Fabric Weave on Design Paper 

Assignment 14 / Knitted Fabrics: 

To Determine Knitted Fabric Structure 

Assignment 15 / Knitted Fabrics: 

To Determine Properties of Knitted Fabrics

Assignment 16 / Dyed Fabrics: 

To Determine the Degree of Dye Penetration 

Assignment 17 / Dyed Fabrics: 

To Determine Stage of Dyeing and Possible 

Dye Class Used 

Assignment 18 / Printed Fabrics: 

To Evaluate Printed Design 

Assignment 19 / Textiles for Interiors: 

To Examine Railroading of Upholstery Fabrics 


To Examine Finishes on Textiles for Interiors 


To Examine Fabrics for Down-filled Cushions, 

Quilts, or Pillows 


To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Curtains 

and Draperies 


To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Interiors 

Assignment 24 / Analysis of Fabrics: 

To Produce Fabric Patterns 

CONTENTS 

A vi F 


To Compare Covering Power 


To Analyze the Color Effect of a Woven 

Fabric Design 


To Analyze a Fabric 

Assignment 28 / Fabric Performance Testing: 

To Determine Tests to Perform on Fabrics for 

a Specific End Product 


To Determine the Durability of the Fabrics 


To Determine Fabric Wrinkle Resistance 


To Determine Colorfastness Properties 

of Fabrics 

Assignment 32 / Textile Laws: 

To Develop Appropriate Labels to Satisfy 

Federal Laws 

Fabric Sample Sheets

HOW TO USE THE FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT 

The Fabric Science Swatch Kit has been assembled 

to supplement the study of textiles. The swatches 

and assignments will enhance your understanding of 

the principles described in the textbook. This Swatch 

Kit is designed to accompany the Fabric Science, Tenth 

Edition, text. 

Most of the fabrics contained in the Fabric Science 

Swatch Kit have been obtained from the marketplace. 

They have been sold to apparel or interior furnishing 

manufacturers and have eventually appeared in 

stores as textile products (e.g., jackets and decorative 

pillows). 

The 114 fabric swatches included in the Swatch 

Set represent examples of every major type of fiber, 

yarn, weave, and knit as well as examples of dye, 

print, and finishing applications. Examples are also 

provided for more recent materials such as microdenier 

fiber, lyocell fiber, and special purpose “high-tech” 

fabric such as Staybright bleach-resistant fabric. In 

addition, a fabric made of eco-friendly fibers, such as 

organic cotton and reprocessed wool, have been included. 

The swatches have not been “pinked,” but left 

with straight edges to make it easier to remove yarns 

(this is necessary for fabric analysis). The rectangular 

form has been chosen to correspond to the fabric 


fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting 

the Swatches on Fabric Sample 

Sheets” (see page viii). 

A vii F 

length and width directions. (The long swatch direction 

is the fabric length.) 

The swatches have been organized in approximately 

the order in which they will be studied: fibers, 

yarns, weaves, knits, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc. 

The Fabric Science Swatch Kit also contains a Key 

to identify the swatches by number and fabric name; 

description and fiber content; Assignments; and Fabric 

Sample Sheets for mounting swatches. 

Assignments 

The assignments are designed to reinforce the text and 

classroom lectures. They are developed to broaden your 

understanding of the key concepts concerning textiles 

by involving you directly in problem solving. Successful 

completion of the assignments will help you develop 

skills of observations, analysis, and report writing. 

The assignments are straightforward and basic. 

Extensive laboratory equipment is not required. Sufficient 

information is provided for work to be independent 

of a classroom environment. 

For assignments that are to be completed in the 

classroom, read the assignment before coming to class. 

Use your textbook to review the related material prior 

to the class meeting.

Mounting the Swatches on Fabric 

Sample Sheets 

Materials: Set of swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets; double-stick 

tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide); scissors 

The Fabric Science swatches have been placed in 

numerical order in the proper positions for mounting. 

Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets. 

The fabric number, name, and color listed in the 

Key are in the same sequence as the swatches in the 

packets. To make mounting your swatches simple and 

foolproof, follow these instructions: 

1. Do not remove the rubberbands from the packets 

until you actually begin mounting the swatches. 

2. The swatches are packaged in two separate packets. 

One packet labeled “A” contains swatches 

1–63; the second packet, labeled “B,” 64–114; 

and every 10 swatches are separated with tissue. 

Packet One “A”: 

Fibers (1–15) 

Yarns (16–27) 

Woven Fabrics (28–48) 

Knitted Fabrics (49–63) 

Packet Two “B”: 

Knitted Fabrics (64–69) 

Other Types of Fabrics (70–75) 

Dyed Fabrics (76–80) 

Printed Fabrics (81–88) 

Textile Finishes (89–98) 

Special Fabrics (99–114) 

3. Carefully remove the rubberbands from the packet 

labeled “A”. Keep the packet upright. Mount 

each swatch as you see it—face up and longer 

sides vertical. (Do not turn the swatch over; 

some fabrics have a face and back.) 

4. Cut a two-inch piece of tape. When using masking 

tape, fold the piece in half with the sticky side 

out. Apply the tape to the back of the swatch, 

with the two ends of the tape pointing downward, 

about 1/2 inch from the top of the sample. The 

tape will make it easier to remove swatches for 

assignments and experiments, and to return them 

to the Fabric Sample Sheets. 

5. Press the swatch with the tape in place on 

the Fabric Sample Sheet. Cut and remove any 

loose yarns extending beyond the edges of the 

swatches. 

6. Write the fabric name, number, and fiber content 

on the Fabric Sample Sheet. 

As a helpful example of how the mounting boards 

are used, see Swatch #1 Denim below. 

Swatch Number: 1 

Fabric Name: Denim 

Fiber Content: Cotton 

Yarn Type: Spun 

Weave/Knit Type: 2/1 45° Twill Weave 

Yarns/Stitches per Inch: 61 x 48 

Method of Coloration: Yarn dyed 

Filling: Not dyed 

Finish: Calendered 

End Use: Jeans 

Notes: Not suitable for “skinny” jeans 

HOW TO USE THE FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT 

A viii F 

Using the Pick Glass 

The pick glass has become universal in its applications 

in the field of textiles and clothing. Designers, 

technicians, students, and teachers have found it to be 

an important tool for a better and clearer examination 

of fabrics. Yarn types, fabric weaves, knit stitches, and 

cloth defects can be more easily identified through its 

proper use. The pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch 

Kit) is particularly useful to determine the yarns per 

inch in woven fabrics or the stitches per inch in knit 

fabrics. (Fabric construction is a measure of fabric 

quality.) The pick glass (examining glass), or linen 

tester, is composed of a frame, magnifying lenses, 

and a measured opening in the base opposite the 

lenses. When the pick glass is opened properly, the 

measuring lines on the base are visible when looking 

through the lenses. 

Fabrics to be examined should be placed on 

a flat, smooth surface. The surface must be welllighted. 

The open pick glass is placed on top of the 

cloth and viewed through the lens section. The 

user’s head and not the pick glass should be raised or 

lowered for better focus.

WHAT’S IN A FABRIC NAME? 

The Fabric Science Swatch Kit contains many classic woven 

and knit fabrics. Most fabric names are rooted in historic 

origin and were originally produced only from natural fibers. 

However, as manufactured fibers were developed (most within 

the 20th century), many of these original fabrics began to be 

made from these new fibers. For example, taffeta was originally 

made from 100% silk. Now taffeta is made from rayon, acetate, 

nylon, or polyester. All taffeta fabrics will have similar appearances, 

but some properties will be different because of the different 

fiber content (e.g., strength). Fabric #26 in this swatch 

packet is an example of taffeta made from nylon while fabric 

#94 is made of acetate. 

Another example of a classic fabric originally made only 

from silk is fabric #15, bridal satin. This fabric appears similar 

to silk satin, but is made from acetate. 

Many fabrics do not have historic names. Some of these 

have names which describe the general end use. Fabric #21, 

bathing-suit fabric, and fabric #111, luggage fabric, are two 

such examples. Other fabrics have properties that are unique 

and somewhat different from any historic name fabric, or enduse 

fabric. These are described by their special properties. Fabrics 

#68, sports jersey, fabric #98, accordion pleat, and fabric 

#104, rip stop, are such examples. The woven fabric moiré 

faille, #31, is an example of a classic fabric whose name also 

includes a special fabric property (i.e., moiré design). 

Look at the various names of the fabrics in the “Key to 

Fabric Swatches” to distinguish the classic name from the nonclassic 

ones. 

A ix F



tenth edition 

Key to Fabric Swatches 

Allen C. Cohen 


Ingrid Johnson 



fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting the 

Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.” 

© 2012 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.

Swatch 

Number 

FIBERS 

Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content 

1 Denim (blue) Cotton Cotton 

2 Broken twill (black & grey) Wool (woolen) Wool 

3 Tropical worsted (glen plaid) Wool (worsted) Wool 

4 Sueded twill (black) Cashmere Cashmere/polyester (blend) 

5 3D-design Mohair Mohair/wool (blend) 

6 Heather effect (purple) Reprocessed wool Wool and other fibers 

7 Taffeta (plaid) Cultivated silk Silk 

8 Pongee (ivory) Duoppioni silk Silk 

9 Pin check Tussah silk Silk 

10 Linen (off-white) Flax Flax 

11 Microfiber fabric (army green) Polyester (microfilament) Polyester 

12 Hampton twill (black) Lyocell Lyocell 

13 Nainsook (aqua) Ramie Ramie 

14 Lining (drab olive) Rayon Bemberg ® rayon 

15 Bridal satin (bright blue) Acetate Acetate 

Also see: 

25 Lamé Metallic 

26 Tissue taffeta Nylon 

34 Pointed twill Spandex 

49 Jersey knit Acrylic 

50 Baby jersey Organic cotton 

64 High pile knit Modacrylic 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__


Number 

YARNS 


16 Chambray (dk. blue) Carded yarn Cotton 

17 Broadcloth (taupe grey) Combed yarn Cotton 

18 Linen look (boulder grey) Novelty yarn (thick and thin) Polyester/rayon (blend) 

19 Spider knit (white) Textured filament Polyester 

20 Novelty suiting Novelty yarns (bouclé, tufts, 

plied) 

__ 

21 Bathing suit fabric (hot pink) 4 way stretch Nylon and spandex 

22 Chiffon (pale pink) High twist filament yarn Polyester 

23 Georgette (salmon) Crepe twist yarn Polyester 

24 Crystal organza (white) Monofilament yarn Nylon 

25 Lamé (gold) Metallic yarn Metallic and nylon (mixture) 

26 Tissue taffeta (pale eggplant) Filament yarn Nylon 

27 Shaggy knit (ice blue) Textured yarn and eyelash yarn Polyester and nylon 

Also see: 

31 

35 

65 

66 

78 

111 

113 

Faille 

Sateen 

Tricot jersey 

Tricot jersey 

Lightweight poplin 

Luggage fabric 

Buckram 

Fabric mixture 

Corespun 

15d. 

40d. 

Blended yarn 

High denier yarn 

Filling: monofilament 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__


Number 

WOVEN FABRICS 


28 Gauze (greige) Yarn distortion Cotton 

29 Lawn (white) Plain weave (fine) Cotton 

30 Batiste (print) Plain weave (printed) Cotton 

31 Faille (ice green) Plain weave (ribbed) Warp: acetate 

Filling: cotton 

32 Cord (mineral green) Cord effect Cotton 

33 Chino (beige) Twill weave Warp: cotton 

Filling: cotton and spandex 

(corespun) 

34 Pointed twill (orange crush) Broken twill weave Warp: cotton 


(corespun) 

35 Sateen (pebble) Satin weave Warp: cotton 


(corespun) 

36 Antique satin (dusty green) Satin weave (novelty yarn) Warp: acetate 

Filling: rayon 

37 Striped lining Multiple effect Acetate 

38 Piqué (apple green) Piqué weave Cotton 

39 Terrycloth (beige) Warp pile weave (uncut) Cotton 

40 Corduroy (navy) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton 

41 Velveteen (lagoon) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton 

42 Velvet (patterned) Warp pile weave (cut) Rayon 

43 Upholstery velvet (brown) Warp pile weave (cut) Back: cotton 

Pile: wool/rayon (blend) 

44 Sculpted upholstery velvet 

(camel) 

Warp pile weave (cut) __ 

45 Evening wear dobby (black) Dobby weave Acetate 

46 Tie fabric Dobby weave (long floats) Polyester 

47 Natté damask (white) Jacquard weave Cotton 

48 Upholstery brocade (sage) Jacquard weave Warp: polyester 

Filling: cotton/rayon (blend) 

Also see: 

5 

9 

110 

3D-design 

Pin check 

Designer jacquard 

Long floats 

Basket weave 

Jacquard 

__ 

__ 

__


Number 

KNITTED FABRICS 


49 Jersey knit (black) Jersey (coarse) Acrylic 

50 Baby jersey (greige) Jersey (fine) Cotton (organic, combed 

yarns) 

51 Rib knit (steel grey) Rib knit (1x1) Cotton 

52 Rib knit (black) Rib knit (2x2) Cotton and cotton and spandex 

(corespun) 

53 Interlock knit (striped) Ribbed Cotton and polyester (mixture) 

54 Interlock knit (cobalt) Interlock Polyester 

55 French terry (blue) Lay in yarn Ground: cotton 

Lay in: polyester/cotton (blend) 

56 Knit window pane check Knit jacquard Acrylic 

57 Slinky (maroon) Supple drape Acetate, nylon, and spandex 

58 Knit terry (orange) Loop-knit (uncut) Pile: cotton 

Ground: cotton and polyester 

59 Knit velour (baby blue) Loop-knit (cut) Pile: cotton 

Ground: cotton and polyester 

60 Argyle Argyle pattern White: cotton 

Blue: polyester 

61 Thermal knit type (white) Patterning with tuck stitches Polyester and cotton (mixture) 

62 Puckered jersey (celery) Crinkle effect Polyester/spandex (corespun) 

63 Fancy jersey Lay in yarns for surface effect 

__ 

64 High pile knit (fake fur) High pile knit Modacrylic 

65 Tricot jersey (white) Tricot (15d.) Nylon 

66 Tricot jersey (black) Tricot (40d.) Nylon 

67 Satin tricot (metallic print) Satin tricot Polyester 

68 Sports jersey (silver) Tricot mesh Nylon 

69 Tulle (red) Raschel (sheer) Nylon 

Also see: 

74 

84 

95 

107 

Raschel lace 

Ponte di roma 

Panné velour 

Matelassé knit 

Raschel lace 

Interlock 

Crushed, flattened surface 

Quilted effect 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__


Number 

OTHER TYPES OF TEXTILES 


70 Interfacing Web nonwoven Polyester and rayon 

71 Fusible nonwoven interfacing Fusible web nonwoven Polyester and rayon (polyester 

dots) 

72 Felt (navy) Felt Wool and polyester 

73 Eyelet fabric (white) Embroidered fabric Polyester/cotton (blend) 

74 Raschel lace (purple) Raschel lace Nylon 

75 Quilted material Quilted material Shell: acetate 

Filler: polyester 

Scrim: polyester 

DYED FABRICS 


Number 


76 Greige goods Greige goods Cotton 

77 Iridescent (magenta) Piece dyed (cross) Blue: nylon 

Pink: polyester 

78 Lightweight poplin (peacock) Piece dyed (union) Polyester/cotton (blend) 

79 Madras (plaid) Yarn dyed Cotton 

80 Gingham (black and white) Yarn dyed Polyester/cotton (blend) 

Also see: 

13 

112 

Nainsook 

Market umbrella fabric 

Piece dyed 

Solution dyed 

__ 

__


Number 

PRINTED FABRICS 


81 Printed check (black and 

white) 

Printed woven design Polyester/cotton (blend) 

82 Flannelette (print) Printed(napped finish) Cotton 

83 Calico Blotch print Polyester/cotton (blend) 

84 Ponte di roma (yellow) Overprint (pigment) Polyester 

85 French piqué (stripe) Heat transfer print Polyester 

86 ITY (blue print) ITY fabric Polyester and spandex 

(corespun) 

87 Burn-out batiste 

(white) 

Burn-out design (sheer effect) Cotton with polyester core 

88 Burn-out velvet (black) Burn-out design (pile effect) Rayon and polyester (mixture) 

Also see: 

99 Liquid lamé Allover metallic effect 

__ 

*Courtesy of WestPoint Home 

TEXTILE FINISHES 


Number 


89 Staybright fabric* (orange) Bleach resistant color Cotton/polyester (blend) 

90 Drill (olive) Suede finish Cotton 

91 Brushed knit (lemon) Brushed (napped) finish Polyester 

92 Paper taffeta (classic blue) Water repellent finish Nylon 

93 Chintz (pink) Glazed calender finish Cotton 

94 Moiré taffeta (black) Moiré finish Acetate 

95 Panné Velour (silver grey) Crushed (flattened) surface Polyester and spandex 

(corespun) 

96 Stretch plissé (blue and white) Pucker effect Warp: cotton 


(corespun) 

97 Seersucker (multicolor) Seersucker Cotton 

98 

Also see: 

Accordion pleat Pleating Polyester 

17 Broadcloth Mercerized and compressive __ 

shrinkage finish 

31 

76 

79 

105 

113 

Faille 

Greige goods 

Madras 

Yoryu 

Buckram 

Moiré finish 

Greige goods 

Fabric not mercerized 

Heat set crinkle effect 

Stiffening finish 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__ 

__


Number 

SPECIAL FABRICS 


99 Liquid lamé Allover metallic effect Polyester 

100 Coated fabric (brown) Down proof Nylon 

101 Allover flock (blue grey) Flocking Flock: nylon 

Back: polyester/cotton (blend) 

102 Moleskin (dusty pink) Lightly sueded finish Warp: polyester 

Filling: polyester and spandex 

(corespun) 

103 Poplinette (grey gull) Supplex ® nylon Supplex ® nylon 

104 Rip stop fabric (silver sage) Rip stop Nylon 

105 Yoryu (coral) Crinkle effect Polyester 

106 Fortuny satin (antique white) Fortuny effect Rayon 

107 Matelassé knit (brown) Quilted effect Polyester 

108 Polar fleece ® type (navy) Double brushed fabric Polyester 

109 Vinyl rainwear (black) Waterproof vinyl coating Face: vinyl 

Back: polyester 

110 Designer jacquard Accessory fabric Face: nylon and rayon 

(mixture) 

Back: vinyl 

111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn Nylon 

112 Market umbrella fabric** Sunbrella ® acrylic Acrylic 

113 Buckram Stiffening finish Warp: cotton 

Filling: polyester monofilament 

114 Placemat material Plastic coated Nylon 

**Courtesy of Glen Raven

FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT / Fabric Sample Sheet 

Swatch Swatch Swatch 

Swatch Number Swatch Number Swatch Number 

Fabric Name Fabric Name Fabric Name 

Fiber Content Fiber Content Fiber Content 

Yarn Type Yarn Type Yarn Type 

Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type 

Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch 

Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Method of Coloration 

Finish Finish Finish 

End Use End Use End Use 

Notes Notes Notes 

© Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.

Fabric Science Swatch Kit - Fairchild Books

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