Safety – Your First Priority when Climbing a 14er or Hiking in ... - RTD

Safety – Your First Priority when Climbing a 14er or Hiking in BackcountryWe have included some climbing safety suggestions in this handout. Please research yourclimbs completely before making an ascent. We encourage you to seek professional advice andguides if this is your first ascent. There are several resources online from; education courses,safety classes, first aid courses, to mountaineering courses. See links listed below.Use a call in person when hiking or climbing – set a designated time you will call them afteryour climb. Give them prior to trip; your climb information, where you parked your car, make ofvehicle, license plate and ascent route. Have them call local sheriff if you do not contact them bydesignated time.Being prepared is first and foremost.http://www.14ers.com/safety.phpMountaineering in Colorado can be very dangerous and many people havedied on the 14ers. Weather, terrain and other people can put you in a situationwhere your knowledge and experience will be vital. If you are new to these peaks, Iurge you to pick up a book on mountaineering safety. It could save your life. Justbecause a crowd of people can march to the summit of Quandary Peak on a summerSaturday, it doesn’t mean that they are all safe. Altitude sickness, dehydration, andfast-building storms are the most common problems. Get in shape and start early foreach trip. I can’t tell you how many times I have been half way down a 14er andpassed hikers that were determined to get to the summit - even with hugethunderclouds brewing above.Backcountry skiing has it's own set of dangers and challenges, and I'm not talkingabout cross country skiing here. Colorado has the most annual avalanche deaths inthe U.S. Even experienced climbers/skiers can get in trouble.Here are some basic points on mountaineering preparation and safety:PREPARING FOR THE TRIP• Consider taking a mountaineering class. If you don’t want to take a class,travel with experienced hikers. General mountaineering classes are offeredthroughout the country and at the Colorado Mountain Club -http://www.cmc.org.• Make sure you are in the proper physical conditioning to make the trip.• Travel with experienced people.• Acquire the appropriate maps.• Plan for an early start - especially in thunderstorm season. I usuallyplan for a start early enough to get me below tree line by noon (on thedescent). For a day hike that requires 10 - 15 miles roundtrip, consider hittingthe trail a couple of hours before sunrise.• Check with the local U.S. Forest Service for road closures and trailheadinformation.• Bring a compass and/or GPS and know how to use them.• Tell someone the following:o When you are leavingo Where you are staying/campingo When and where you are hiking

o When you plan to returno Where you parked your car and make and license• Check the weather forecast and change the day of the trip if the weatheris not going to cooperate.• Research the route (maps and other descriptions) thoroughly so youknow a lot about the terrain and landmarks before you even get there.Studying topo maps can really help.• For winter travel, check with local resources on the current avalanche danger.Pack the necessary gear for avalanche safety.ALTITUDE SICKNESS• Buy a book on mountaineering that covers altitude sickness. It is a commonproblem on 14ers - especially for people that come from much lowerelevations.• Know when to spot the symptoms (in you and your partners).• Turn back if necessary. The best remedy is to get to lower elevation ASAP.BRING THE PROPER GEAR AND SUPPLIESThe following list includes most of the gear you will need, and some helpful gearlinks have been provided. It does not cover the required equipment for technicalclimbing. I have found BackCountry.com, and REI to be two of the best places toshop for backcountry and mountaineering gear.Main Gear:Food and water (plenty of water)HatGlovesSynthetic shirtsSynthetic long underwearFleece or Wind-Block jacketWaterproof shell/jacketNylon shortsHiking pantsHiking boots / scrambling shoesHiking socksWatchPack (that fits the hike/climb)HeadlampSunglassesKnife or multi-toolWater bladder or bottlesCompassMapsTapeMatches/lighter30spf+ sunscreenTP (in ziploc bag)Cell phone

Emergency supplies, including a first aid kit(including ace bandage)Climbing helmetOptional: Trekking polesOptional: GPSOptional: Water filterOptional: SPOT LocatorOptional: Satellite Phone (expensive)Colder Weather and Snow Climbing:Waterproof shellWaterproof pantsMountaineering bootsMountain axeSnowshoesCramponsGaiters (ankle or knee-high)Winter hatBalaclava or fleece face maskAvalanche beaconsAvalanche probeShovelGear for Overnight Summer Trips:TentSleeping bagSleeping padAT / Tele Backcountry (BC) Skiing Gear:AT skis / bindingsAT bootsTele skis / bindingsTele bootsClimbing skinsKNOW YOUR LIMITATIONS• Get in shape in the off-season. A 14er trip is much more enjoyable if you arein better shape. Even the easiest 14er routes require proper conditioning.• Not everyone is fit enough for every hike. Understand when your body istelling you to turn back.• Make sure you have the proper skills to tackle the route. Many 14er routescan turn from easy hiking to technical climbing in a hurry.• Make sure all of the people in your group have the proper skills for the route.• Turn back if necessary.• Skiing on a 14er is much different than visiting the ski area. It takes a certainset of skills to climb and ski in the backcountry. Terrain can be steep,dangerous, and difficult to ski. On many routes, a fall could be fatal.

SAFE TREKKING• Start early. Summit before noon.• If you are going to travel in winter, learn about avalanche safety. In winter,avalanche danger is always present. Click Here for the Colorado AvalancheInfo Center• Pay attention at all times. The altitude may impair your judgment, so it isvery important to stay alert.• Keep a safe distance from other hikers.• Travel quietly.• If you are climbing a steep slope or gully, be careful not to send debris sailingdown on other climbers.• Watch for animals - cougars, bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep,marmots, deer, elk, and more...• Don’t wander off into the wilderness. If you get hurt, you may never befound.• Frozen lakes are not always safe.• Bring a cell phone or satellite phone.• Drink plenty of water.WATCH THE WEATHER• Pick up a book on weather so you know how to "read" the sky and predictweather as best as possible.• Check the weather forecast the night before your trip.• Dark, brewing clouds are bad.• During summer, lightning is your main problem on a 14er. Start earlyand turn back if a thunderstorm is brewing.• A barometer is very helpful. Many new GPS units or hand-held weatherstations will give you barometric information. Rapidly dropping barometricpressure is usually a sign of adverse weather to come.http://www.14ers.org/resources_notrace_plan.phpYour trip to a Colorado Fourteener starts long before you reach the trailhead. From gatheringinformation to carrying appropriate gear, proper preparations will help you enjoy a safe andminimum impact trip to Colorado’s high country. Virtually all backcountry accidents and theircorresponding damage to the environment can be prevented through careful pre-trip planning.Take the time to ready yourself before you leave home.The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative and Leave No Trace, Inc. recommend that all hikersattempting to ascend Fourteeners consider the following before any climb:• Define Goals and Expectations for Your Hike• Know the Area and What to Expect• Carry and Use Appropriate Clothing and Equipment• Reduce Litter at the Source, Repackage Food into Reusable Containers• Consider the Weather• Consider Altitude, Snowfields, and Hypothermia

DEFINE GOALS AND EXPECTATIONS FOR YOUR HIKEBefore departing to climb a Fourteener, your group should discuss and agree upon the goals forthe hike. Clarifying the group’s expectations will assist with your preparations and give everyoneinvolved an understanding of their role as a member of the group. Also, keep in mind that a grouptravels only as fast as its slowest member. Understanding each person’s abilities will ultimatelyallow to you have a safe, successful trip to Colorado’s high country.KNOW THE AREA AND WHAT TO EXPECTBegin the trip by consulting with local land managers, guidebooks, and hikers who have alreadyclimbed your chosen peak. Land managers will be able to explain any permit requirements orregulations that pertain to the area. Gather information about the area – the trailhead location, themost appropriate route, seasonal closures, wildlife concerns, designated campsites, etc. Be sureto choose a route that is appropriate for your group’s skill level and which will enable you tominimize your impact on the environment. Always decide on a contingency plan – the methodand route you plan to use in case of an emergency. Gather topographic maps for the area andmake sure you are proficient with the use of a map and compass. Be sure to leave your itinerarywith friends or family and sign the trailhead register to facilitate any rescue efforts. Stick to yourplan so that others can find you in case of emergency.CARRY AND USE APPROPRIATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTIll-prepared backcountry users who find themselves in uncomfortable situations will often sacrificeminimum impact considerations for safety and comfort. To minimize your impact and maximizeyour safety, carry gear that will allow you to be comfortable in all weather conditions. Forexample, good rainwear, a warm hat, and insulating layers will help you cope with wet and coldconditions. Likewise, carrying a lightweight camp stove, tent, and collapsible water container willallow you to camp at the most appropriate, durable site. What follows are some specificequipment recommendations that will help you leave no trace while climbing Fourteeners.• Brightly colored equipment and clothing may look attractive in store windows, but abovetimberline it can be seen from a long distance, creating a visual impact to otherFourteener hikers. Earth-colored clothing and equipment is less visibly obtrusive.• Rugged, water-resistant boots and gaiters are a must because they allow you to stay onthe main trail when conditions are snowy, wet, or muddy.• A small garden trowel is indispensable for digging a minimum-impact cathole to buryhuman waste below timberline. Above timberline, a paper bag containing kitty litter (odorreducing/drying agent) and a sealable, plastic bag will enable you to pack out your solidhuman waste (see section Dispose of Waste Properly for more detailed instructions).• Carry binoculars and telephoto camera lenses to observe or photograph wildlife from anunobtrusive distance.• Carry a small strainer to remove all food particles from dishwater before dispersing it (seesection Dispose of Waste Properly for more detailed instructions).

For a more detailed list of recommended clothing and equipment, please refer to the[/resources/notrace/gear Fourteener gear list].Reduce Litter at the Source, Repackage Food into Reusable ContainersWind on the summit of a Fourteener can quickly rip food packaging from your hand and deposit itbeyond your reach. To minimize the amount of potential trash or litter you bring into thebackcountry, plan your meals carefully and repackage foods from boxes, bottles, and cans intoreusable containers or plastic bags.CONSIDER THE WEATHERWeather in Colorado’s high country can change quickly and dramatically. A balmy 70-degree daycan turn stormy with hail and high winds in a matter of minutes. Unprepared Fourteener climbersoften do damaging things like cutting switchbacks in order to descend the mountain rapidly andescape severe weather. Expect dramatic changes in weather and prepare yourself by carryingappropriate waterproof, windproof, and warm clothing.Understanding weather patterns can assist in trip preparation. Most people hike FourteenersJune through September. These months are also marked by afternoon thunderstorms. Thesestorms, caused by rising warm air masses, are marked by heavy rain, hail, and lightning. Properpreparation for such storms includes carrying all-weather gear and anticipating weather changes.Always get an “alpine start” by leaving early enough in the morning to descend from the summitby noon. This pattern of travel minimizes your exposure to thunderstorms and allows you plentyof daylight to return to the trailhead. In the event you are caught on a ridge or summit during athunderstorm, descend quickly from the ridge or summit, stow any metal gear away from yourbody, and crouch down with your feet together and head low. If available, place an insulatinglayer, such as a foam pad, between your feet and the ground. Groups should spread out at least15 feet apart to minimize the chance multiple lightning strike victims. (detailed information onlightning safety is available from the US Forest Service Rocky Mountain Region’s web-site at[http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/spl/safety]).Weather patterns in winter, spring, and autumn are also of special concern. Shorter days, coldertemperatures, avalanches, and severe snowstorms are all factors to consider. Hikers in springand autumn will likely encounter standing water, mud, ice, and any number of other variedconditions.Up to date weather forecasts for Colorado are available over the internet at:The Weather Channel – [http://www.weather.com]Weather Underground – [http://www.wunderground.com]National Weather Service – [http://www.crh.noaa.gov]CONSIDER ALTITUDE, SNOWFIELDS, AND HYPOTHERMIAAltitude – As you gain altitude when hiking Fourteeners, the amount of oxygen your body takes inand processes with each breath decreases. While oxygen content in the air remains constant at21%, as you gain altitude the barometric pressure decreases, causing air to expand in volume.

The result in the change of barometric pressure is that you intake 12% less oxygen with eachbreath at 14,000 feet than at sea level. Reduced levels of oxygen in the bloodstream combinedwith the exertion of climbing a Fourteener causes many climbers to experience symptoms ofaltitude sickness such as light-headedness and nausea. Uncommon but real, severe effects fromaltitude include high altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema, which can result in death. The bestprevention of altitude sickness is to stay hydrated and well fed. Stop your ascent if youexperience symptoms: they will become worse if you continue your climb. Many climbers havebeen seriously injured from altitude sickness because it negatively effected their judgment andcaused them to make poor decisions regarding route finding or weather.Altitude also effects air temperature. For every 1,000 feet in elevation gained, the temperature willdecrease approximately 3.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Thus, if it is 60 degrees at the trailhead at10,000 feet, it is 46 degrees on the summit not considering wind chill or other factors.Snowfields – Snowfields exist along Fourteener hiking routes in all seasons. Researchyour climb and know whether or not you will encounter snowfields. If you will encountersnowfields, you should carry an ice axe and crampons and know how to use them(mountaineering classes are offered annually by the Colorado Mountain Club, for moreinformation visit their web-site at www.cmc.org). Additionally, you should receiveavalanche awareness training. Every year, avalanches in the mountains needlessly killhikers. To learn more about avalanches or to check avalanche forecasts for the state ofColorado contact the Colorado Snow and Avalanche Center at [http://www.csac.org].Hypothermia – Hypothermia is the rapid loss of body temperature and can result in death. Thehigh winds and rain typical of mountain weather put ill-prepared hikers at risk of becominghypothermic. Early symptoms are shivering, apathy, mental confusion, slurred speech, andstumbling. Individuals exhibiting these symptoms should be removed from exposure to rain andwind as quickly as possible, given warm and or sugary foods and drinks, and changed out of wetand into warm and dry clothes. More severe symptoms are unresponsiveness, decreased pulseand respiration, cessation of shivering and physical collapse. Individuals exhibiting thesesymptoms must be transported to a medical facility immediately where they can be re-warmed.10 Lightning Tips for ClimbersStay Safe from Lightning While ClimbingIf you’re out climbing on the rocks or in the mountains and a thunderstorm sweeps in, you'rein a dangerous situation since you're probably in an open exposed place like a ridge, cliff-top,or summit. Follow these 10 tips for climbers to minimize your risk and stay safe from lightningwhen you're caught in the storm.1. Quickly descend to a lower elevation.Descend and find a less exposed place. It’s best ifyou’re away from the direction of the approachingthunderstorm.2. Don’t be the tallest object around.Don’t stand in open areas. Instead take shelter in a thick forest and avoid taking coverbeneath isolated trees or a tree that is taller than nearby trees. If there are no treesaround, hunker down in a depression and squat. Don’t lay down on the ground.

3. Keep away from objects that conduct electricity.These include water, metal objects like climbing equipment, metal fences, and powerlines. Take off any pack with an internal or external metal frame and hang all metalclimbing gear well away from you.4. Wet ropes can carry current.A wet rope also makes a perfect electrical conductor. In a bad storm, consider untyingany wet rope from you. If lightning strikes above, the current can pass down the ropeand zap you.5. Squat or kneel down.It’s best if you use a sleeping pad, empty pack, climbing rope, or anything else that willinsulate you from the ground. Put your feet close together so you will have less contactwith the ground and reduce danger from ground currents. Do not lie flat on the groundbecause strike currents can easily travel through your vital organs.6. Spread your group out.Spread your group out (a minimum of 15 feet) so that if there is a strike there will beteam members available to give first aid assistance.7. Don’t hide in small caves or under overhangs.Sitting under an overhang or in a small cave is asking for trouble since lightning will jumpthe gap from top to bottom by passing through you. I had a friend killed by lightning onPikes Peak when he sat under a boulder overhang above timberline to wait out a storm.8. Move to either side of cracks.If you’re climbing and a lightning storm comes, move away from vertical crack systemswhenever possible. Lightning currents travel down cracks.9. Avoid rappelling in lightning storms.Rappelling in lightning storms should be avoided if at all possible. Currents from a clifftopstrike can travel down your wet rope, zapping you. Sometimes, however, rappellingmight be the fastest way to reach safety so you might need to take a calculated risk byrappelling…and keeping your fingers crossed!10. Don’t lie down on ledgesIf you’re on a cliff in a lightning storm, don’t lie down on a ledge or sit with your backagainst the vertical wall since current can pass through you. Instead try to sit or crouch,preferably on insulation like a rope, on the outside edge of the ledge. Also tie in crosswiseso you don’t fall off if struck and keep the rope from under your armpits.Know First AidIf you’re out climbing on the cliffs or in the mountains, there is always the possibility for injuryto either yourself or your climbing partners. If you carry a basic first aid kit and know how toassess injuries and to use your first aid supplies, it can make a big difference in the outcome.Remember that using your head, knowing what to do in a medical emergency situation, is themost important part of your first aid kit.Accidents HappenAccidents happen in the great outdoors when you’re out climbing. You trip and sprain anankle. You fall and break a leg or arm. You get hit with loose rock and suffer a head injury. Ifyou’re carrying a basic first aid kit in your climbing pack, then you can mitigate some of the

damage from these injuries. You’ll be able to patch yourself or your buddy up enough so thateverything isn’t as bad as it could be. You’ll be able to survive until you get to a hospital.Take First Aid ClassesThe crux, of course, is to know how to use your first aid supplies. You can carry the biggestfirst aid kit you can buy but if you don’t know first aid then it’s under-utilized. If you’re a goingto be a serious and competent climber, alpinist, and outdoorsman, then you need to havemore than a passing knowledge of first aid. The best and easiest way to learn first aid is totake an American Red Cross class in CPR and first aid. They prepare you to deal with lifethreateningemergencies. If you don’t have time for a class or there are none nearby, thentake Red Cross on-line training and work at your own pace. If you took a class in the past,your knowledge has probably slipped. It’s good to do a refresher course every year to keepyour first aid skills up to date.Treat Basic InjuriesClimbing accidents usually fall in two categories—minor injuries and catastrophic emergencies.The essential first aid supplies you carry should cover the in-between injuries. Before you puttogether or buy your first aid kit, it’s a good idea to think about common climbing injuries andthen fill your kit with supplies to treat those ailments. Basically you should be able to treatwounds, bleeding, blisters, headache, pain, and broken bones. It’s difficult to treat traumaticinjuries with the basic supplies you’ll carry. It’s best in those situations to get help andhelicopter immediately and get the patient to a trauma center.First Aid Supplies to CarryWhat should you carry in your basic climbing first aid kit? It’s difficult to decide because youwant to keep the kit small and lightweight, but you also want to have enough to treat severeinjuries. It’s up to you to find that balance. You can buy prepackaged first aid kits and they’repretty good but you also should consider personalizing the kit by adding items you mightneed. For day-long climbing trips, I keep my kit small, weighing about six ounces. For longermulti-day trips that include backcountry hiking, it’s worthwhile to carry a bigger kit, especiallysince you’ll be farther from help. Just keep it simple and know how to use it.Essential Climbing First Aid KitA basic climbing first aid kit should include:• Gauze pads or rolls/Sterile dressings• Medical tape/Duct tape/Ace bandage• Moleskin• Adhesive bandages• Butterfly bandages• Triangular bandages/• Disinfecting ointment/Neosporin• Over-the-counter pain medication /Ibuprofen• Tweezers, small scissors, and safety pins• Medical exam gloves• Anti-diarrheal medication• Aloksak bag or Zip-lock baggie• Sunscreen

• Safety blanket/matches• Compact first-aid book (I prefer Backcountry First Aid by Buck Tilton)Questions: Contact Christian Turner (ELT 01) - 303.744.9612Helpful LinksColorado State ParksFourteeners.Org14ers.comMeetup.com –find groups or people interested in hiking.National Park ServiceABC of HikingColorado Mountain ClubAmerican Alpine Club

Wilderness Hiking Safety TipsPark visitors need to accept wilderness on its own unique terms. Proper preparedness andhazard awareness can prevent hiking injuries.Be preparedWear sturdy boots that are broken in and are comfortable and know how they respond to wetslippery surfaces. Get in trail shape before the trip--fatigue often leads to injuries. Traveling withat least one hiking companion adds to your safety margin.Wear pants, wind or rain pants, and a long sleeve shirt during more hazardous hiking conditions,such as after a rain The extra clothing can reduce the degree of any injuries from a fall.A hiking pole or walking stick can be very helpful in maintaining your balance in hazardousconditions. Stay aware of your surroundings, and preplan your approach to more hazardousareas.Extra weight wears you down and reduces your agility over uneven terrain. Pack as light aspossible. Leave the extras behind.And awareAnything wet (from dew, rain, frost, snow) can be a hazard and even more so if it's on a slope -water bars, tree roots, bare rock, stepping stones, tree branches, loose pebbles/fine rocky soils,muddy ground, board walks. A moose with a calf; bulls in rut, and Yellow jacket nests in theground near the trail can also be hazards while hiking.Know how to hike avoid hazardsStep over water bars, logs, or tree roots rather than on them. These surfaces are often slippery,and your feet may slide sideways, especially on a slope.Board walks can be very slippery when wet. Slow your pace, keep your steps shorter, and yourweight over your feet. (Do not slide into your step.) When stepping on stepping stones, keep yourweight centered over your step to avoid sliding or slipping.When faced with barren rock on a slope, you may find there is a better option just off to the sidewhere people have traveled. Look for it.Think ahead of time what you'll do if you start to slide or fall so you are prepared for it. If falling,do not try to catch yourself; try to avoid landing on your hands, elbows or knees. Landing on theside of your body is much safer. If you start to slide, sometimes you can stop the slide, (with ahiking pole, or hanging on to a tree). If the slope is such where you know you are going to slide,lowering your center of gravity, by sitting down and sliding on your feet or bottom, is safer. Ifsliding while standing up keep your weight over your feet and bend your knees--do not lean backor forward while sliding.If you come upon moose, don’t get too close. Give them enough distance. Use binoculars orzoom lens to get a closer look. Watch for Yellow Jacket nests in the ground near the trail, andmake sure you carry an emergency sting kit if you are allergic to bees.And how to avoid becoming fatiguedFatigue slows your awareness and preparedness to hike safely. Avoid fatigue by following theseguidelines:Stay hydrated - drink plenty of water, even on cool, wet days.

Ensure adequate calorie intake - don't wait until you feel hungry.Take more frequent rest brakes, but not so long you begin to stiffen up.Stay warm. Becoming cold reduces your awareness.Watch out for other members of your party getting fatigued and take appropriate action and care.Your wilderness experience can have a happy ending if you stay aware and come prepared.