In the footsteps of Annabella Boswell at Port Macquarie - National ...
In the footsteps of Annabella Boswell at Port Macquarie - National ...
In the footsteps of Annabella Boswell at Port Macquarie - National ...
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14GALLERYDEVELOPMENT<strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong><strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong><strong>at</strong> <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong>A boardwalk allows visitors access to Lake <strong>In</strong>nes Ruins.Wh<strong>at</strong> a lovely afternoon th<strong>at</strong> 29 th <strong>of</strong> January was! There hadbeen some rain in <strong>the</strong> early morning, and now as we walked up<strong>the</strong> wide approach <strong>the</strong> air was cool and fresh, laden with <strong>the</strong>sweet scent <strong>of</strong> roses and heliotrope, <strong>the</strong> leaves <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> evergreensglittering in <strong>the</strong> sun, and a thousand gay flowers lendingbrightness to <strong>the</strong> scene. At <strong>the</strong> right hand <strong>the</strong> ground slopedaway, and <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> slope lay <strong>the</strong> lake, calm and brightin <strong>the</strong> glad sunshine. It was a lovely scene, and <strong>of</strong>ten as I havelooked on it since with admir<strong>at</strong>ion, it never seemed fairer to methan it did on th<strong>at</strong> day.So, years l<strong>at</strong>er, wrote <strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong>, as she transcribed<strong>the</strong> journal she penned as a teenager in 1843, describing <strong>the</strong>day she came to live <strong>at</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House, <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong>,New South Wales. She was to remain <strong>the</strong>re for nearly fiveyears, leaving Lake <strong>In</strong>nes in December 1848.<strong>Annabella</strong>’s uncle, Archibald <strong>In</strong>nes, was a successfulentrepreneur in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong> district. A formerCommandant <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> penal settlement <strong>the</strong>re, he saw <strong>the</strong>region’s potential as a g<strong>at</strong>eway to <strong>the</strong> New England region.He took up land once <strong>the</strong> area was opened to free settlementin 1830, and set about building a grand colonial mansion,Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House, constructed between 1831 and 1838 byassigned convict labour. Its distinctive bricks were madefrom clay on <strong>the</strong> est<strong>at</strong>e. The Lake <strong>In</strong>nes Est<strong>at</strong>e, in addition to<strong>In</strong>nes’s house, boasted a home farm, where poultry and pigswere raised, and lucerne, corn and o<strong>at</strong>s were grown. Therewas also an orchard and a vineyard. <strong>In</strong>nes’s magnificentstables could hold 30 horses.38158 NMA Friends June09_FA.indd 14 20/5/09 5:23:42 PM
<strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong> (née <strong>In</strong>nes), was born on 16 September1826 <strong>at</strong> Yarrows, on <strong>the</strong> B<strong>at</strong>hurst Plains, <strong>the</strong> eldest daughter<strong>of</strong> George <strong>In</strong>nes and his wife Georgianna neé Campbell. The<strong>In</strong>nes family had settled on Yarrows, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first landgrants in <strong>the</strong> district, in 1823. The family moved north toGlen Alice, a c<strong>at</strong>tle property <strong>at</strong> Capertee, in 1834. <strong>Annabella</strong>was educ<strong>at</strong>ed in Sydney and by governesses on Glen Alice.<strong>In</strong> 1839 <strong>the</strong> family moved again, this time to Lake <strong>In</strong>nes.George died soon after and <strong>the</strong> family moved back south,sold up Glen Alice and, after two years <strong>at</strong> Parram<strong>at</strong>ta,resettled <strong>at</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes.<strong>Annabella</strong> was connected by marriage to <strong>the</strong> intellectualaristocracy <strong>of</strong> colonial NSW in <strong>the</strong> 1830s and 1840s. Bydisposition she possessed a strong spirit <strong>of</strong> inquiry, whichwas enhanced by her rel<strong>at</strong>ionships with members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>Macleay family <strong>of</strong> scientific collectors and botanical artists– Margaret <strong>In</strong>nes, Archibald <strong>In</strong>nes’s wife, was <strong>the</strong> daughter<strong>of</strong> NSW Colonial Secretary, Alexander Macleay, Secretary<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Linnean Society in London from 1798 to 1825, Fellowit was removed. There were two silver wine coolers with lightwines, and branch candlesticks with wax candles, and foursilver side dishes: we had two soups and an immense variety<strong>of</strong> dishes. Bruce [<strong>the</strong> piper] and <strong>the</strong> butler waited, and we hadfour footmen in livery. I felt quite dazzled, as I had never been<strong>at</strong> so splendid an entertainment before.However, this high living did not last, as Archibald <strong>In</strong>nesplunged deeper and deeper into debt. His business ventures,such as a road to New England, failed. The depression <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>l<strong>at</strong>er 1840s brought an end to <strong>In</strong>nes’s career as an independentbusinessman, and he became a gold commissioner and policemagistr<strong>at</strong>e. Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House remained in family handsfor some years, <strong>the</strong>n had a series <strong>of</strong> owners until, in 1905, abushfire swept <strong>the</strong> property. It became prey to vandals and fellinto ruin, and in 1984 came under <strong>the</strong> control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> N<strong>at</strong>ionalParks and Wildlife Service <strong>of</strong> NSW.<strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>In</strong>nes married P<strong>at</strong>rick Charles Douglas<strong>Boswell</strong> (1816–92) <strong>at</strong> Newcastle in June 1856. <strong>Boswell</strong> wasemployed in <strong>the</strong> Bank <strong>of</strong> New South Wales as an accountant,15GALLERYDEVELOPMENTHoles in <strong>the</strong> exterior walls <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House stables allowed owls t<strong>of</strong>ly in to c<strong>at</strong>ch r<strong>at</strong>s and mice.Bricks made by convict labour from clay on <strong>the</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes Est<strong>at</strong>e, andbaked in ovens on site.<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Royal Society, and an enthusiastic promoter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>establishment <strong>of</strong> a museum in NSW. The Australian Museumbegan its life in 1827 in <strong>the</strong> Colonial Secretary’s <strong>of</strong>fice.<strong>Annabella</strong>’s journal contains many references to findingnew examples <strong>of</strong> n<strong>at</strong>ive plants in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong> area,and her delight in making w<strong>at</strong>ercolour paintings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m.Over a fortnight she meticulously recorded <strong>the</strong> nightlyappearances <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gre<strong>at</strong> Comet <strong>of</strong> March 1843. Lake <strong>In</strong>nesHouse itself was <strong>the</strong> last word in luxury, and was maintainedby a large staff, including a Scots piper. The day-to-day life<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House, and <strong>the</strong> lavish events held <strong>the</strong>re, were recordedfaithfully in <strong>Annabella</strong>’s journal. Her description <strong>of</strong> a dinnerparty held on 22 June 1843 during Alexander Macleay’s visitfor an election gives a vivid impression <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> grand lifestyle<strong>at</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House:The table presented a splendid appearance, being laidvery handsomely for eighteen persons. The épergne was quitebeautiful, and when placed in <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> table <strong>the</strong> flowerswere as high as <strong>the</strong> lamp. I must own I was ra<strong>the</strong>r glad whenl<strong>at</strong>er becoming a manager. <strong>In</strong> 1864 <strong>the</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong>s travelled toScotland and, after inheriting <strong>the</strong> family est<strong>at</strong>e, Garrallan,P<strong>at</strong>rick resigned from <strong>the</strong> bank in 1865. <strong>Annabella</strong> died <strong>at</strong>Garrallan on 25 October 1914.<strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong>’s journal was first published in Scotlandl<strong>at</strong>e in <strong>the</strong> 19th century as Early Reminiscences and Gleaningsfrom an Old Journal. A copy somehow found its way to <strong>the</strong><strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong> branch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bank <strong>of</strong> New South Wales andwas acquired by <strong>the</strong> Hastings River Historical Society in 1956.It was republished by Angus and Robertson in 1965. Oneresult <strong>of</strong> its public<strong>at</strong>ion was a renewed interest in <strong>the</strong> Lake<strong>In</strong>nes ruins, which were excav<strong>at</strong>ed by a team led by EmeritusPr<strong>of</strong>essor Graham Connah from <strong>the</strong> l<strong>at</strong>e 1990s to 2001.————38158 NMA Friends June09_FA.indd 15 20/5/09 5:23:43 PM
16GALLERYDEVELOPMENTThe ‘blue loo’, a Wedgwood transfer ware toilet bowl from Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House,flanked by two Gothic-style fireguards from <strong>the</strong> House.I retraced <strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong>’s steps to wh<strong>at</strong> would have been<strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>of</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House on a warm spring day inSeptember 2008. I was visiting <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong> to discovermore about <strong>the</strong> stories – and <strong>the</strong> associ<strong>at</strong>ed artefacts – <strong>of</strong> anumber <strong>of</strong> people who had lived in <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong> and hadundertaken scientific pursuits, as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> development<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ‘Spirit <strong>of</strong> <strong>In</strong>quiry’ module for <strong>the</strong> Museum’s newpermanent gallery. <strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong>, with her keen interestin recording <strong>the</strong> appearance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Comet <strong>of</strong> 1843, and herexplor<strong>at</strong>ion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local environment in search <strong>of</strong> n<strong>at</strong>ive plants torecord in w<strong>at</strong>ercolour, is <strong>the</strong> earliest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scientific investig<strong>at</strong>ors<strong>of</strong> <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong> to be examined in ‘Spirit <strong>of</strong> <strong>In</strong>quiry’.The scene described by <strong>Annabella</strong> <strong>Boswell</strong> has utterlychanged. <strong>In</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scent <strong>of</strong> flowers and <strong>the</strong> glisteningleaves <strong>of</strong> evergreen exotic trees and shrubs, eucalyptus treeshave surrounded <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House, with anadmixture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> exotic plants introduced by Margaret <strong>In</strong>nesto <strong>the</strong> locality – lantana, used for hedging, briar roses andMysore thorn, all now regarded as noxious weeds. Only <strong>the</strong>glittering lake remains. <strong>In</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> a grand mansion, columns<strong>of</strong> broken brick rear up like jagged teeth where solid wallsonce enclosed <strong>the</strong> fine carpets, furniture and artworks th<strong>at</strong><strong>Annabella</strong> and her family lived among in <strong>the</strong> glory days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>House. Open to <strong>the</strong> sky, <strong>the</strong> commodious stables th<strong>at</strong> rangto <strong>the</strong> sounds <strong>of</strong> hooves on <strong>the</strong> stone flagging, and <strong>the</strong> voices<strong>of</strong> grooms and stable-boys, are now only empty and echoingwalls, pierced by <strong>the</strong>ir builders with round holes to allow owlsto fly in to keep down rodents.The site, now called Lake <strong>In</strong>nes Ruin, has been stabilisedand a boardwalk constructed to allow access to visitors onguided tours conducted by <strong>the</strong> rangers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> N<strong>at</strong>ional Parksand Wildlife Service <strong>of</strong> New South Wales. The veget<strong>at</strong>ionth<strong>at</strong> had all but overwhelmed <strong>the</strong> site has now been cut back,revealing a maze <strong>of</strong> remnant walls. Visitors can again walkbeside <strong>the</strong> spaces where <strong>Annabella</strong> and her family passed<strong>the</strong>ir days in <strong>the</strong> many pursuits she describes in her journal– making clo<strong>the</strong>s and accessories, taking lessons under <strong>the</strong>tutelage <strong>of</strong> her aunt Margaret <strong>In</strong>nes, painting <strong>the</strong> wildflowersshe ga<strong>the</strong>red in long rambles about <strong>the</strong> district, and arrangingflowers for <strong>the</strong> vases and épergnes th<strong>at</strong> decor<strong>at</strong>ed <strong>the</strong> lavishlyappointed rooms <strong>of</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House. The peaceful scene<strong>Annabella</strong> described is peaceful still, but in a very differentway. It takes an effort <strong>of</strong> imagin<strong>at</strong>ion to travel back in time towhen this site – now so very much a 21st century cre<strong>at</strong>ion,with its steel bracing to prevent <strong>the</strong> fragile walls from toppling,its ne<strong>at</strong> boardwalk and interpretive signs – was peopled by<strong>the</strong> higher social circles <strong>of</strong> colonial New South Wales, and <strong>the</strong>small army <strong>of</strong> servants who <strong>at</strong>tended to <strong>the</strong>ir needs.Back in <strong>the</strong> town <strong>of</strong> <strong>Port</strong> <strong>Macquarie</strong>, <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> HistoricalMuseum, items from <strong>the</strong> excav<strong>at</strong>ion <strong>of</strong> Lake <strong>In</strong>nes House byPr<strong>of</strong>essor Graham Connah and his team are on display. Thestar object is <strong>the</strong> ‘blue loo’ – a toilet bowl <strong>of</strong> blue and whitetransfer ware ceramic, painstakingly pieced toge<strong>the</strong>r. This38158 NMA Friends June09_FA.indd 16 20/5/09 5:23:45 PM