In the footsteps of Annabella Boswell at Port Macquarie - National ...

14GALLERYDEVELOPMENTIn the footsteps ofAnnabella Boswellat Port MacquarieA boardwalk allows visitors access to Lake Innes Ruins.What a lovely afternoon that 29 th of January was! There hadbeen some rain in the early morning, and now as we walked upthe wide approach the air was cool and fresh, laden with thesweet scent of roses and heliotrope, the leaves of the evergreensglittering in the sun, and a thousand gay flowers lendingbrightness to the scene. At the right hand the ground slopedaway, and at the foot of the slope lay the lake, calm and brightin the glad sunshine. It was a lovely scene, and often as I havelooked on it since with admiration, it never seemed fairer to methan it did on that day.So, years later, wrote Annabella Boswell, as she transcribedthe journal she penned as a teenager in 1843, describing theday she came to live at Lake Innes House, Port Macquarie,New South Wales. She was to remain there for nearly fiveyears, leaving Lake Innes in December 1848.Annabella’s uncle, Archibald Innes, was a successfulentrepreneur in the Port Macquarie district. A formerCommandant of the penal settlement there, he saw theregion’s potential as a gateway to the New England region.He took up land once the area was opened to free settlementin 1830, and set about building a grand colonial mansion,Lake Innes House, constructed between 1831 and 1838 byassigned convict labour. Its distinctive bricks were madefrom clay on the estate. The Lake Innes Estate, in addition toInnes’s house, boasted a home farm, where poultry and pigswere raised, and lucerne, corn and oats were grown. Therewas also an orchard and a vineyard. Innes’s magnificentstables could hold 30 horses.38158 NMA Friends June09_FA.indd 14 20/5/09 5:23:42 PM

Annabella Boswell (née Innes), was born on 16 September1826 at Yarrows, on the Bathurst Plains, the eldest daughterof George Innes and his wife Georgianna neé Campbell. TheInnes family had settled on Yarrows, one of the first landgrants in the district, in 1823. The family moved north toGlen Alice, a cattle property at Capertee, in 1834. Annabellawas educated in Sydney and by governesses on Glen Alice.In 1839 the family moved again, this time to Lake Innes.George died soon after and the family moved back south,sold up Glen Alice and, after two years at Parramatta,resettled at Lake Innes.Annabella was connected by marriage to the intellectualaristocracy of colonial NSW in the 1830s and 1840s. Bydisposition she possessed a strong spirit of inquiry, whichwas enhanced by her relationships with members of theMacleay family of scientific collectors and botanical artists– Margaret Innes, Archibald Innes’s wife, was the daughterof NSW Colonial Secretary, Alexander Macleay, Secretaryof the Linnean Society in London from 1798 to 1825, Fellowit was removed. There were two silver wine coolers with lightwines, and branch candlesticks with wax candles, and foursilver side dishes: we had two soups and an immense varietyof dishes. Bruce [the piper] and the butler waited, and we hadfour footmen in livery. I felt quite dazzled, as I had never beenat so splendid an entertainment before.However, this high living did not last, as Archibald Innesplunged deeper and deeper into debt. His business ventures,such as a road to New England, failed. The depression of thelater 1840s brought an end to Innes’s career as an independentbusinessman, and he became a gold commissioner and policemagistrate. Lake Innes House remained in family handsfor some years, then had a series of owners until, in 1905, abushfire swept the property. It became prey to vandals and fellinto ruin, and in 1984 came under the control of the NationalParks and Wildlife Service of NSW.Annabella Innes married Patrick Charles DouglasBoswell (1816–92) at Newcastle in June 1856. Boswell wasemployed in the Bank of New South Wales as an accountant,15GALLERYDEVELOPMENTHoles in the exterior walls of the Lake Innes House stables allowed owls tofly in to catch rats and mice.Bricks made by convict labour from clay on the Lake Innes Estate, andbaked in ovens on site.of the Royal Society, and an enthusiastic promoter of theestablishment of a museum in NSW. The Australian Museumbegan its life in 1827 in the Colonial Secretary’s office.Annabella’s journal contains many references to findingnew examples of native plants in the Port Macquarie area,and her delight in making watercolour paintings of them.Over a fortnight she meticulously recorded the nightlyappearances of the Great Comet of March 1843. Lake InnesHouse itself was the last word in luxury, and was maintainedby a large staff, including a Scots piper. The day-to-day lifeof the House, and the lavish events held there, were recordedfaithfully in Annabella’s journal. Her description of a dinnerparty held on 22 June 1843 during Alexander Macleay’s visitfor an election gives a vivid impression of the grand lifestyleat Lake Innes House:The table presented a splendid appearance, being laidvery handsomely for eighteen persons. The épergne was quitebeautiful, and when placed in the centre of the table the flowerswere as high as the lamp. I must own I was rather glad whenlater becoming a manager. In 1864 the Boswells travelled toScotland and, after inheriting the family estate, Garrallan,Patrick resigned from the bank in 1865. Annabella died atGarrallan on 25 October 1914.Annabella Boswell’s journal was first published in Scotlandlate in the 19th century as Early Reminiscences and Gleaningsfrom an Old Journal. A copy somehow found its way to thePort Macquarie branch of the Bank of New South Wales andwas acquired by the Hastings River Historical Society in 1956.It was republished by Angus and Robertson in 1965. Oneresult of its publication was a renewed interest in the LakeInnes ruins, which were excavated by a team led by EmeritusProfessor Graham Connah from the late 1990s to 2001.————38158 NMA Friends June09_FA.indd 15 20/5/09 5:23:43 PM

16GALLERYDEVELOPMENTThe ‘blue loo’, a Wedgwood transfer ware toilet bowl from Lake Innes House,flanked by two Gothic-style fireguards from the House.I retraced Annabella Boswell’s steps to what would have beenthe entrance of Lake Innes House on a warm spring day inSeptember 2008. I was visiting Port Macquarie to discovermore about the stories – and the associated artefacts – of anumber of people who had lived in Port Macquarie and hadundertaken scientific pursuits, as part of the developmentof the ‘Spirit of Inquiry’ module for the Museum’s newpermanent gallery. Annabella Boswell, with her keen interestin recording the appearance of the Comet of 1843, and herexploration of the local environment in search of native plants torecord in watercolour, is the earliest of the scientific investigatorsof Port Macquarie to be examined in ‘Spirit of Inquiry’.The scene described by Annabella Boswell has utterlychanged. Instead of the scent of flowers and the glisteningleaves of evergreen exotic trees and shrubs, eucalyptus treeshave surrounded the site of Lake Innes House, with anadmixture of the exotic plants introduced by Margaret Innesto the locality – lantana, used for hedging, briar roses andMysore thorn, all now regarded as noxious weeds. Only theglittering lake remains. Instead of a grand mansion, columnsof broken brick rear up like jagged teeth where solid wallsonce enclosed the fine carpets, furniture and artworks thatAnnabella and her family lived among in the glory days of theHouse. Open to the sky, the commodious stables that rangto the sounds of hooves on the stone flagging, and the voicesof grooms and stable-boys, are now only empty and echoingwalls, pierced by their builders with round holes to allow owlsto fly in to keep down rodents.The site, now called Lake Innes Ruin, has been stabilisedand a boardwalk constructed to allow access to visitors onguided tours conducted by the rangers of the National Parksand Wildlife Service of New South Wales. The vegetationthat had all but overwhelmed the site has now been cut back,revealing a maze of remnant walls. Visitors can again walkbeside the spaces where Annabella and her family passedtheir days in the many pursuits she describes in her journal– making clothes and accessories, taking lessons under thetutelage of her aunt Margaret Innes, painting the wildflowersshe gathered in long rambles about the district, and arrangingflowers for the vases and épergnes that decorated the lavishlyappointed rooms of Lake Innes House. The peaceful sceneAnnabella described is peaceful still, but in a very differentway. It takes an effort of imagination to travel back in time towhen this site – now so very much a 21st century creation,with its steel bracing to prevent the fragile walls from toppling,its neat boardwalk and interpretive signs – was peopled bythe higher social circles of colonial New South Wales, and thesmall army of servants who attended to their needs.Back in the town of Port Macquarie, at the HistoricalMuseum, items from the excavation of Lake Innes House byProfessor Graham Connah and his team are on display. Thestar object is the ‘blue loo’ – a toilet bowl of blue and whitetransfer ware ceramic, painstakingly pieced together. This38158 NMA Friends June09_FA.indd 16 20/5/09 5:23:45 PM