POZNAŃ

CONTENTS3ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDESFull contents of all our Polandguides are now online:www.inyourpocket.comContentsArriving in Poznań 12The Basics 13Surviving PozCulture & Events 18This seasons highlightsWhere to stay 24Accommodation for all pocketsRestaurants 34The highs and lowsCafes 49Nightlife 51Hedonists handbookFor the past few years the trophy cabinet at Lech Poznanhas boasted more cobwebs than cups, but that standsto change this season with the local side standing on theverge of greatness. See for yourself on page 6.With the credit crunch crunching you won’t be the firstperson be caught looking behind the fridge for some sparecoins. Thankfully you’re in Poznan, a city where good timesand vices are permanently set on cost-cutter level. We siftthrough the bargain basement to find the best of budgetPoz on page 32.poznan.inyourpocket.comSightseeingWhat to see 61The city inside outKórnik 70The Piast Route 72Castles of Wielkopolska 73Gniezno 74Getting around 80Planes, trains & automobilesMail & Phones 86Shopping 87Directory 89Maps & IndexCity centre map 91City map 92Country map 94Street index 96Listings index 97Feature index 98March - June 2009

4FOREWORDTiming is everything in Poznan. Get it wrongand it’s not unlike walking onto a cowboy film,nothing in the ghost town but the distant clatterof a saloon door. This is never truer than inMarch, a time when the city sleeps, the vapidgreyness sliced by shadow and snow. Satsuspended between seasons Poznan has thetorpid gait of a stunned turtle, and it’s everybit as sociable. But this guide covers a fourmonth span, and somewhere during that lifeexpectancy Poznan slips its guard and makesa bolt for the good times. True, it’s not exactlyBourbon Street circa Mardi Gras, but neither isit the serious, suited city it is for much of therest of the year. Who knows, maybe it’s becauseso much of the time is spent living under cloud,but you’ll find a little wink from Mr Sun is allthe encouragement the natives need beforeunpacking the patio furniture and turning thecity into one massive beer garden. Naturally,the old town forms the focal point, and there’sno better place to seek liquid solace than in theshadow of the town hall tower. But do explore;spidering off in different directions the cobbledstreets house diversions as numerous as theyare obscure – sitting between wedding cakechurches and slanting burgher houses theinvestigative traveller can discover everythingfrom Egyptian mummies to wailing ghosts. Andonce you’ve crossed the old town off your listthen head further afield to revel in the glories ofKornik Castle, clamber around meteor craters,celebrate the memories of the airmen shotduring The Great Escape or make contact withthe many aliens supposedly spotted flyingoverhead.As always we welcome all comments and feedback,so long as they’re addressed toeditor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Poz.Europe In Your PocketOdesa In Your Pocket, a mini-guide to the jewelof the Ukrainian coast, became the 50th In YourPocket guide when published back in November. Itwas followed quickly by Maribor In Your Pocket,a mini-guide to the second largest city in Slovenia.This year will see more new, full, In Your Pockets, inSarajevo, Glasgow and Vienna. If you want to join thePocket Revolution and publish your own guide, to yourcity, get in touch with us at publisher@inyourpocket.com. You should also make sure you take a look atour new, much improved website. It is packed withexclusive content, and offers you the chance to reallyget involved, writing your own reviews or commentingon our features. Go surf at inyourpocket.com.Notus City Park Residence, to is pierwsza the first w residence Poznaniuin Poznań which fulfills the requirements of a five-star hotel. TheRezydencja speniajca wymogi piciogwiazdkowego hotelu. Obiekt czy w sobiecechy modern zabytkowej, design. secesyjnej Eighty-eight architektury elegantly oraz nowoczesnego furnished, comfortablydesignu. Dobuilding combines the features of historic, secessionist architectureandequipped dyspozycji and goci air-conditioned zostao oddanych apartments 88 elegancko are umeblowanych, at our guests’ komfortowo disposal.Conveniently wyposaonych, klimatyzowanych located in the apartamentów.centre of the town, with a swimmingpool,Dogodna conference lokalizacja rooms w Centrum and intimate miasta, mieszczce gallery (shopping si na terenie centre) obiektu: in Notus,City Park Residence guarantees not only comfortable rest in thebasen,salecentre ofkonferencyjne,Poznań, butaabovetakeall,kameralnait offersgaleriaperfectusugowo-handlowaconditions for busineswiaj,and e Notus social City meetings. Park Residence The gwarantuje harmony of nie the tylko historic komfortowy architecture wypoczy-spra-and the calmness on the complex makes Notus City Park Residencenek w centrum Poznania, ale przede wszystkim perfekcyjne warunki do spotkaa unique place.biznesowych i towarzyskich. Harmonia zabytkowej architektury oraz spokojupanujcego na terenie kompleksu sprawiaj, i Notus City Park Residence jestmiejscem wyjtkowym.Notus City Park ResidenceUl. Wyspiaskiego 2660-751 PoznaTel.: 0048 61 22 18 400Fax.: 0048 61 22 18 402notuspoznan@fortenhotels.plwww.fortenhotels.plESSENTIAL CITY GUIDESCompany office & AccountsBasia OlszewskaWIYP Sp. z o.o.ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot058 555 08 31poznan@inyourpocket.comwww.inyourpocket.comPrinting CGSPublished 15,000 copies,3 times per yearMapsAgencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEMRynek Główny 6, Szara Kamienica31-042 Kraków, tel./fax 012 421 24 48agencja@pod-aniolem.com.plEditorialEditor Alex WebberAssistant Editor: Karolina Montygierd-ŁojboResearch Łukasz Jankowski, Artus ZalewskiEvents Klaudia MampeDesign Tomáš HamanPhotography A. Webber, Lena WachackaCover Maciej Pietrzak - maciej@cgs.plSales & CirculationDirector: Małgorzata DrząszczAssistant: Bartosz Matyjas 058 555 98 18Kraków/Katowice/ZakopaneManager: Małgorzata Drząszcz 0606 749 676Representative: Anna Chłapek 0668 876 351Warszawa/ŁódźManager: Marta Ciepły 0606 749 643Wrocław/PoznańManager: Anna Wyrzykowska 0606 749 642Gdansk/BydgoszczManager: Monika Kitson 0503 057 142Copyright noticeText and photos copyright WIYP1999/2008. Maps copyrightcartographer. All rights reserved. No partof this publication may be reproducedin any form, except brief extracts forthe purpose of review, without writtenpermission from the publisher andcopyright owner. The brand name In YourPocket is used under license from UABIn Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocketguides is independent from paid-foradvertising. Sponsored listings areclearly marked as such. We welcome allreaders‘ comments and suggestions.We have made every effort to ensurethe accuracy of the information at thetime of going to press and assume noresponsibility for changes and errors.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.com

6 LECH POZNAŃLike all sensible nations Poland is a football country, andthe fans don’t get anymore passionate than the onesdown at local side Lech Poznan. Their trophy cabinetmight have more cobwebs than it does cups but thatdoesn’t stop the fans from flocking through the turnstiles.While Legia Warszawa and Wisla Krakow bicker overwhich one is the biggest side in the country, it’s actuallylittle Lech who can claim to be the best supported.They’ve 19,000 fans on average, a figure which easilysurpasses those of Poland’s more famous clubs. And,rather incomprehensibly, that figure could rise evenfurther – Lech Poznan stand on the verge of greatness,with both the domestic league and the UEFA Cup withintheir grasp. That was the case as we prepared to go toprint, anyhow, whether or not it’ll be a case of smiles inthe summer remains to be seen.The HistoryPlaying in their trademark blue and white colours Lechkicked their first ball in 1922, and throughout the yearshave been closely affiliated with the state railwaycompany – hence their nickname, The Railwaymen.Glory days have been few and far between, the clubsheyday lasting from 1983 to 1993. It was during thistime the club scored five league titles, including theirlast to date in 1993 – albeit on a technicality after thetwo teams who finished above them were punished formatch rigging. Fans still reminisce about those headydays in the pubs of Poznan, with a particularly favouritestory being their epic clash against Barcelona in the1989 Cup Winners’ Cup. Poznan lost, on penalties,but memories linger and the mere mention of thislegendary dual is a surefire way of placating any scarythugs you might come across. Since then silverware haslargely eluded Lech, though the Polish Cup was addedto the boardroom in 2004, but recent signs suggest arenaissance is firmly underway.This SeasonA very merry Christmas it proved for fans of Lech Poznan.As the league closed for its annual mid-winter breakLech stood top of the pile, leading second placed LegiaWarszawa on goal difference. In what has emerged asthe tightest title race for years just six points separatesthe top six teams, with highlights for Lech including amemorable 4-1 massacre of defending champions WislaKrakow. Particularly gratifying have been the performancesof Robert Lewandowski. The wunderkind has proved thecapture of the season, leading the clubs goal scoringcharts with eight goals since his summer switch fromZnicz Pruszkow. Lewandowski’s red hot form hasn’t beenoverlooked by national coach Leo Beenhakker, and the 20year old hitman found his performances rewarded with aninternational call-up against San Marino. While Poland’sgame was awful, Lewandowski’s wasn’t, and he crownedhis debut with a goal, alerting scouts from Europe’s topclubs in the process – Lech fought hard over Christmas tokeep Lewandowski, though a summer move to Serie A nowlooks increasingly likely. Not that Lech are a one man team;Bosnian Semir Stilic has been a mainstay of midfield sincehis arrival last year, while Peruvian international HernanRengifo has proved a menace in the box with six goalsso far. Indeed, coach Franciszek Smuda has moulded ayoung, fluid unit, capable of breathtaking football playedwith cavalier abandon. Admirers are plentiful, and if thePolish tabloids are to be believed, include Celtic, who haveapparently looked into the possibility of making a swoop forSmuda when Gordon Strachan bows out in June. Far fetchedPoznań In Your Pocketthat might sound, but it goes a long way to illustrating justhow far Lech have risen in such a short space of time. Andwhile Poland’s higher profile clubs left the European stagewith a whimper it’s been left to Lech to fly the standardon foreign fields.Lech’s hopes of silverware aren’t limited to domestic cupsalone, at press time they were Poland’s sole remainingrepresentative in European competition. A thrilling lastgasp victory over Austria Vienna was enough to see themqualify for the group stages of the UEFA Cup, and theymanaged to scrape out of that following a dramatic winagainst Dutch giants Feyenoord. Drawn to face Udinesein the last 16 Lech did their best to shoot themselvesin the foot, surrendering a two goal lead to the visitors.Urged on by a partisan crowd Lech fought back gallantly,scoring twice with ten minutes left on the clock. By thetime this guide hits the newsstands the result of the returnleg will be history, though one thing’s for sure, count Lechout at your peril.But with good news comes bad, and it doesn’t get anyworse than the revelations that cult hero Piotr Reiss hasbeen charged in part of the nationwide inquiry into matchfixing and corruption. Prior to his arrest Reiss, capped fourtimes by the national side, had enjoyed legendary status atLech, having hit 109 goals in over 300 appearances for theclub. The charges are thought to relate to Lech Poznan’s2-0 win over Gornik Polkowice back in 2004, and have leftLech fans reeling.Armed for the MatchMake it your mission to catch these lads in action. The groundmight have three sides but the atmosphere is cracking,with Lech’s fans rated as the noisiest in the country. Standwarned, however, while Poland claims to be winning thebattle against the thugs you may want to avoid a chanceencounter with Lech’s more lively element by headinginto the pricey seats. The stadium dates from 1980, andfollowing improvements in 2002 is now one of the mostmodern in Poland. And it’s due to get even better; pickedas a host ground for Euro 2012 further work is currentlybeing conducted to raise capacity from 25,000 to 45,000.Remaining home games are as follows, with tickets (35-50zl)available in advance from locations across town, as well asfrom the box office on ul. Bulgarska 5/7.March 8 17:00 v Jagiellonia BiałystokMarch 21 16:00 v Arka GdyniaApril 4 18:00 v Wisła KrakówApril 18 16:00 v ŁKS ŁódźMay 2 18:00 v Ruch ChorzówMay 16 v Lechia GdańskMay 30 v Cracovia Krakówpoznan.inyourpocket.com

8TRADE FAIRSMost foreign visitors to Central Europe are unfamilar withPoznań. However, those that do business in this part of the worldknow the city well. If you’re here on business you are probablyalready aware that Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital. It isestimated that over 60 percent of all trade fairs held in Polandare held in Poznań at the International Fair Centre.Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back asfar as 1254 when King Przemysław I granted specialprivileges to traders. Over the following centuries Poznańdeveloped this trading tradition to the point where, in1917, local merchants decided to develop a specialisedfair institution. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921,when the first Poznań fair took place. Since then, the Fair’sfortunes have risen and fallen according to the politicaland economic changes that periodically moved throughPoland and Europe.After Poland re-emerged on the map of Europe in 1918with the advent of the second Polish Republic, thePoznań fair was instrumental in helping to re-integrateeconomic activities. It contributed to the task of creatinga new Polish market and in demonstrating to the outsideworld Poland’s readiness for economic and commercialcooperation. It also helped with the complex task ofunifying the three areas of Poland separated during thepartitions and in which different fiscal, monetary and legalsystems operated.In 1928, the city of Poznań and the Poznań International Fairheld the Universal National Exhibition, which showed the worldthe achievements of the first decade of the new Polish state.Over 4.5 million people visited the fair, including delegationsfrom many foreign countries. The Poznań International Fairwas one of the few fairs that managed to survive the greateconomic crisis of 1929-1932 and by the outbreak of WWIIit was considered one of Europe’s leading fairs.However, the war had a catastrophic effect on theInternational Fair complex. The Germans used the buildingsfor storage and to manufacture airplane parts. On EasterSunday 1943, a day when no Poles were at the Fair, theBritish Royal Air Force bombed pavilions 5 and 8 as StanisławLaskowski, the Fair’s president, looked on. Pavilion 5 wasrebuilt in the 1970s with funds from the British Departmentof Trade and Industry.In 1946 rebuilding started on the same land and the firstpost-war fair was held under the title Fashion and Home(Odzież i dom). The Poznań International Fair started anewin 1947 but was once again forced to close - this time, in theyears 1951-54, because of the atmosphere created by theCold War. It was only in 1955, with the multi-product PoznańInternational Fair exhibit, that the Fair started cooperatingwith foreign countries again.Trade fairsPoznań International Fairs (MiędzynarodoweTargi Poznańskie) E-4, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. 061869 20 00, fax 061 866 58 27, info@mtp.pl, www.mtp.pl.World Trade Center Poznań E-3, ul. Bukowska 12,tel. 061 866 10 50, wtc-poznan@wtc-poznan.com.pl, www.wtc-Poznań.com.pl. The WTC fosters worldtrade and promotes international business relationships.WTC runs a visitor information desk during every fair,where foreigners can get free fair passes and informationon the relevant industrial sector in English, Russian andGerman. It also has a business centre and a bar.QOpen09:00 - 17:00.Poznań In Your PocketTrade fair scheduleMarch03-05 Body Style: Exhibition of Lingerie and BeachFashion03-05 Next Season: Contracting Exhibition03-05 Special Days: Exhibition of Wedding and EveningFashion09-11 Shoes, Leather and Leather Goods13-15 Education Fair13-15 Fair Meetings Books13-15 School Equipment Exhibition20-21 Poznań Optical Salon31/03-03/04 Drema31/03-03/04 FurnicaApril21-24 Euro - Reklama GIFT EXPO21-24 Euro - Reklama OUTDOOR EXPO21-24 Poligrafia21-24 TeksPro24-28 Bakepol25-26 beautyVision25-26 Look: Hairdressing and Cosmetics ForumMay07-10 Poznań Automotive Meetings07-10 TTM: Automotive Technology Fair08-10 Fitness & Sport Park09-10 ESWC: Electronic Sports World Cup19-21 AUTOMA: Robotics International Fair19-21 Expopower: Power Industry Fair19-21 greenPOWER: The International Fair for RenewableEnergyJune03-06 arena DESIGN: Design meets InternationalBusiness03-06 Biuro: Fair of Office Furniture and Furnishing03-06 Budma Interior03-06 Furniture Trade Fair03-06 Home Décor: Interior Design and Home FurnishingsShow03-06 LUMINEXPO: Exhibition of Lighting and LightTechnology16-19 Hape: Exhibition of Hydraulics, Pneumatics andDrives16-19 ITM – Poland: Innovations-Technologies-Machines16-19 Mach – Tool: Machine Tools Exhibition16-19 Metalforum16-19 Science for the Economy16-19 Surfex: Exhibition of Surface Treatment Technologies16-19 Transporta: Exhibition of Logistics, Transportand Shipping16-19 Welding: Salon Welding16-19 Work Safety in Industry ExhibitionNeed a taxi?Check our listof trustworthy firmson page 82poznan.inyourpocket.com21-24.10. 2009Poznań, PolandMidzynarodowe Targi Poznaskie sp. z o.o.Pozna International Fair Ltd.ul. Gogowska 14, 60-734 Pozna, Polandtel. +48 61 / 869 20 00, fax +48 61 / 869 29 69e-mail: toursalon@mtp.pl

10QUICK PICKSQUICK PICKS11Poznań condensedLocalCheapEat Drink Sleep See DoThe seminal Polski experience is offered at W-Z(p 48), a huge wood-fitted venue where guests inflatethemselves on obscene portions of local classics.At the other end of the price scale go upmarketand visit Nalewka (p 36) for a piece of traditionalPoland at its peak.This is a town of students, so finding places sellingfood for buttons isn’t a problem. The problem lies inthe students; they’re not exactly known for their culinarytastes, and as such the budget options reflectthis. Spagetheria (p 34) isn’t a bad choice, and youcan rely on Sphinx (p 34) to hit your calorie quota inone go. While it’s not exactly a giveaway, ChłopskieJadło (p 46) offer great return on your money withgiant portions of local peasant grub.Relive the days of the People’s Republic of Poland bytaking in a visit to Proletaryat (p 56) a commie themedpub littered with detritus recovered from dark days:Soviet issue army caps, pennants and paintings ofMarx. For something classy and capitalist sample thelocal ales at the Brovaria microbrewery (p 52), or slumit with local students and thesps at the unforgettableDragon (p 53). Also, how about drinking with the locallads at the blokey Deserovnia (p 53).There’s nowhere in Poznań that will really break thebank so drinkers can look forward to some rollickingnights out. Committed cheapskates should head tothe student ghetto along ul. Taczaka where pubs likeAcademic (p 51) and Corner Pub (p 52) sell alcoholicliquids at cut price. If straying out of old town isn’t yourscene then stand shoulder-to-shoulder with pissedbrainboxes in Déjà Vu (p 52).LocalCheapIf you’ve had one too many ofthe brews at the aforementionedBrovaria (p 24) then no problem,bed down in their hotel upstairs.It’s a lovely, upmarket effort, withviews staring onto the Rynek. Forsomething more traditional thenit’s got to be Młyńskie Koło (p 29), acharismatic lodge fit for a squire.Hostelling has yet to take off inPoznań and choices are practicallynon-existent. So it’s a bit of a resultthat the Frolic Goats (p 31), not onlyhas a fab name, but also very decentaccommodation. Also, how about thenew Cinnamon Hostel (p 31), greatvalue guaranteed. Going up a levelthe insolvent should consider a stayin the Mini Hotelik (p 30).The old town should top any itinerary,and a trip to its centerpiece,the town hall, is an absolute must.Check out the Historical Museum (p64) for the full story of Poznań – fromstart to finish.Aspiring scrooges should checkout our What to See section (p 61),paying particular attention to admissionprices. Nearly all museums andgalleries will open their doors freeto the public once a week. If brokenpots and old spears don’t do it for youthen why not just walk around – theold town won’t disappoint.Once you’ve seen the insideof the town hall, then takeyour time to circle it. Do soat noon and you’ll have thepleasure of noting a coupleof mechanical goats (p 68)popping out of the tower onthe stroke of noon, a traditionthat dates back to 1551.Pick up a Poznań City Card(see p 81). It’ll win you freeadmission to scores of museums,as well as unlimitedtravel on trams and buses.LadsYou’ll need a slab of red meat in you before hitting thepubs, so why not get a steak down you in Rodeo Drive(p 34). Give some consideration to Someplace Else(p 35), a lively venue with decent pub grub served tothe sound of live bands. Best of all, they’ve got SkySports, so there’s no chance of missing the gamewhile you wait for some pillock to finish off his food.Finally, just opened, eat burgers served by Barbiegals - that’s Rooster on p. 34.Dom Vikingków (p 58) is a popular destination forlads, especially the sports bar out in the back, andafterwards give your chat-up lines an airing in a clublike Cute (p 59). If you need a taste of home thenBrogan’s is the best Irish pub in the country. Well,Poznań anyway. See page 52.LadsIf you’re traveling in a pack thenyou’ll need to be checking into ahotel that can cope with numbers. Ifcash is no object then it’s got to bethe Sheraton (p 26). Failing that gofor another one of the biggies likeNovotel Centrum (p 26), Ibis (p 28) orthe System (p 28), all of which haveplenty of beds to go round.Brit lads should make a pilgrimageup to the Commonwealth Cemetery(p 68), where the bodies of thosewho took part in The Great Escapeare buried.Hold a piss-up in a brewery.The Lech Brewery (p 68)organize tours and testing attheir plant on the outskirtsof town.CouplesSplurgeDine at Alexander (p 38) inside a restaurant thatbursts with cherubs and plant life. Alternatively hitDelicja (p 35) for something equally romantic, if littleless OTT. Finally, let your hands roam freely by diningin the pitch black Dark Restaurant (p 39). For moreschmoozy dining give Mollini a whirl (p 43).Le Palais du Jardin (p 36) is pretty much the pinnacleof local dining, and Figaro is also worth the trip (p36). Bazanciarnia (p 35) also never gets anythingless than top marks. For something less stuffy anda little more inventive head to Fusion in the Sheraton(p 37) to see there’s more to dining in Poznań thanordering game.Fuego (p 54) is so overwhelmingly cheesy it’s wortha trip just for a cheap laugh. Or how about CzerwonyFortepian (p 52), a posh jazz venue with frequentlyoutstanding music. If something more lively is inorder then rub shoulders with the local gliterrati thenput the dancing daps on and take a trip to BuddhaBar (p 37).Nowhere is going to have your bank manager huntingyou down with a shotgun, though Habana (p 39) hassome seriously pricey booze on offer in equally upmarketsurrounds. This is by far the classiest drinkingoption in town, and just the place where you shouldleave the keys to your Hummer on view. For clubbingSQ (p. 60) is considered the classiest danceteria intown, with a door policy to reflect this.CouplesThe Domina Poznań Residence(p 24) is brilliant, with some excellentviews and the sort of interiors you’dchoose for your home if you had thecash. But to go really Cupid thenhead out of town and book lodgingsat one of the manor houses found inthe sticks. We can recommend PałacWąsowo (p 32) for saucy breaks.Splurge Domina Poznań Residence (p 24),Sheraton (p 26) and the Andersia(p 25) are excellent choices, withlittle to separate them, though forsomething really flash check intothe newest top-band hotel in thecity - The Notus (p 25) is simplyknockout.Be syrup sweet and head to thezoo to giggle at penguins and othercreatures who would probably biteyou given half the chance. There’stwo to choose from in Poznań (p 68).Once that’s chalked off head to theParish Church of St Stanislaus (p 63).Beautifully pink and festooned withBaroque extravagances this is justthe place in which to start droppinghints about settling down.See how the local bigshots live it upby booking a table at the Sheraton’sSunday Brunch (p 43). An outlay of130zł wins you unlimited booze andfood from 12:30 to 17:00.Head to ul. Żydowska andone of the many cafes foundon it. If the weather is behavingthen the courtyardgardens here are unbeatablefor a moonlit vino. Inparticular, check out Bordoor Lawka (p 48) or, closer tothe square, Cocorico (p 49)on ul. Świętosławska.Bring the plastic and hitthe shops. You’ll find ul. Paderewskiegolined with designerboutiques, includingZegna, Escada, Max Maraand Burberry.AbstractThere’s nothing more nutty than eating in pitchdarkness, and that’s exactly the concept at DarkRestaurant (p 39), an upmarket venue cloaked inpermanent blackness. Also give Cymes a whirl (p45), a quaint Jewish effort replete with antiquesand heirlooms.There’s a wealth of choices here, but none hold acandle to Kieslice (p 64), a bonkers bar where anythinggoes. No trip to Poznań is complete without alook inside the self-styled K-Hole. You’ll meet a similarcrowd of students, thesps, expats, hacks, losers andtrendies in Dragon (p 53). Alternatively visit W Starym,Kinie (p 58) to drink in a former cinema, or head nextdoor Pod Minogą (p 56) for more beatnik boozing.AbstractBlow Up Hall 50 50 - this place isas mad as it sounds, where the factorymeets the artist. Ummissable.See p 24View meteor craters (p 47) in Morasko,or visit the ArchaeologicalMuseum (p 64) to view the Egyptianmummy of some woman called Hat.The region is known for itsUFOs, so why not go all X-Files and track down somemartians. Alternatively, hangaround the ruins of the RoyalCastle (p 62) and go ghosthunting.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

12ARRIVINGBASICS13Arriving by busPKS Poznań Bus Station is found on ul. Towarowa directly tothe South West of the old town. There are no 24hr exchangebureaus (kantors) though one operates from between 09:00and 18:00 - it’s just outside the main building. You’ll find aPKO ATM (bankomat) right next to here. A Tourist Info point islocated next to the ticket booths and they provide informationand maps alone. Left luggage can be found in the main buildingwith lockers costing 4 and 8zł per day, depending on the sizeyou opt for. If you don’t trust the electronic lockers then leaveyour bags with the porter close to the toilet.Phone booths are found outside and phone cards can bebought from the newsagents. They’ll also be able to sell youSIM cards and Pre-Paid cards for your mobile.A few taxis will usually stand outside the main hall and a trip tothe centre will cost around 10zł. If none are waiting then givea reliable operator like MPT a call (061 9191). Trams 2 and6 also run to the centre, as does bus 71. A 15 minute ticketcosting 2.00zł is all that is needed. Validate it on boarding.Tickets are available from all newsagents.Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy)F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 06:00 - 19:30.Arriving by carThe A2 leads into Poznań from east and west directions, andthe A5 and the A11from south to north. Follow the signs forPoznań centrum to get into the heart of the city.If for some absolutely weird reason you find yourself drivingthrough Poland with no Polish money than you can get yourforeign bills exchanged at any kantors you see. The one inthe train station is open around the clock, as is the one in theHotel Rzymski (Al. Marcinkowskiego 22). ATMs (bankomats)are found scattered gernerously around, with a number foundin the main square (Rynek).The most central Tourist Info point can be found in the mainsquare (C-2, Stary Rynek 59-60), and they offer maps, guidesand In Your Pocket. If you need to leave your luggage underlock and key somewhere then your best bet is your hotel.Alternatively, check luggage details as described in thebus and train stations. SIM cards and Pre-Pay cards can bepurchased from all newsagents.Arriving by planePoznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7kmwest of central Poznan. On arrival there are two exchangebureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left handside of the exit. If you’ve got your card on you then there aretwo PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) foundon the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on theground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside fromstocking Poznań’s best guidebook, you can also purchase SIMcards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As with allsensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage facility.Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on either sideof passport control - chip cards to operate them are availablefrom every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIMcards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone.Getting to town is a cinch. Taxis stand right outside theentrance, though if none should be waiting call a reputableoperator like MPT (tel. 061 9191) or Radio Lux Taxi for somethingmore flashy (tel. 061 9662). On the whole you’ll payaround 25zł to get to town. Do be on the look out for cowboydrivers though, and only use taxis that are clearly markedwith their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs bygetting a bus. There is a stop right outside the entrance withtwo buses running from it: Line 59 (Airport-Bałtyk) heads toRondo Kaponiera with journey time taking 30 minutes. Itleaves every half an hour from 05:00, the last one departing at22:55. Alternatively catch the Express Line L (Airport - CentralStation). Journey time takes 20 minutes though there’s onlyone bus per hour (from 05:20 to 22:15). At other times theairport is connected to the central train station by a nightbus (line 242), with one an hour from 23:52 till 03:52. Journeytime should take 30 minutes. Single tickets valid for the 30minute journey can be bought for 3.60zł from any newsagent.Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy PoznańŁawica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl. Q Open 24hrs.Arriving by trainPoznań’s Central Railway Station (Dworzec Poznań Główny)is to the west of the old town, right next to the trade fair.There is a 24hr currency exchange (kantor) in the main hallas well as a ATMs (bankomats) operated by PKO and WBKbank. Tourist Info, also in the hall, can sell phone cards, SIMcards, In Your Pocket, tram tickets, maps and more. Left luggagelockers can be found at the end of the main hall withsmall and large lockers priced at 4/8zł respectively per day.If you want someone to look after your bag then look forthe sign directing you to Przechowalnia bagażu - there’s onedownstairs from platform 4. The price you pay is dependenton numerous factors, including what you claim your luggageto be worth. Frustrating? You bet.Phone booths are found around the main hall and cards touse them are available from newsagents and the Tourist Infopoint. You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards and pre-paid cardsfor your mobile at the same places.Taxis to the main square will cost around 10-15zł, and there’salways a constant line standing outside. Bus 51 also runsto the city centre with buses leaving every 15 minutes. Theservice runs from 04:51 to 23:16. Buy a 15 minute ticket forthe journey. They’ll set you back 2.00zł and can be purchasedfrom newsagents.Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl.City CardThe Poznan local government offer a citycard for visitors which allows you to visitthe city’s attractions while enjoying eitherfree admission or discounted prices.Incorporating free travel on the city’s public transportsystem as part of the price, you will be given a guide alongwith the card explaining how to use it and informing youof which places offer free admission (most museums) andwhich offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres,cinemas and other attractions such as the zoos). The cardcan also be used in selected places outside of the city suchas Kornik Castle and you can enjoy the additional benefitof using the card there for an extra day in addition to thenumber of days that the card is valid in the city.Cards cost 30zl for 1-day, 40zl for 2-days and 45zl for3-days and can be purchased from:City Information Centre on ul. Ratajczaka 44,Tourist Information Centre on the Market Square, andthe Glob-Tour office in Poznan railway station as well asat selected hotels.The factsTerritoryPoland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometersand is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders theBaltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea(528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russianexclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,Ukraine (529km).Longest RiverThe river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw beforereaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznańsits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via theOdra at Szczecin.Highest PointThe highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby TatraMountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat andthe city lies 219m above sea level.Population (2007)Poland 38,126,000Warsaw 1,702,139Kraków 756,267Łódź 755,251Wrocław 634,630Poznań 564,951Gdańsk 456,658Katowice 314,500Sopot 40,666Local timePoland is in the Central European (CET) time zone(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 inLondon, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on thelast Sundays of March and October.Twin TownsAssen, Brno, Hannover, Jyväskylä, Kharkiv, Nablus, Nottinghamshire,Pozuelo de Alarcón, Rennes, Shenzhen,Toledo.BoozeWhile Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreigncommunity, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and thecountry is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wickedsauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as beingChopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselvesas connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a tatanka- a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a blade ofbison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks hankeringfor something a little more fiery should look no further thanordering Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) - a mix of vodka, Tabascoand raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing stars. One more tolook for, and a specialty hailing from Gdańsk is Goldwasser - asweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf.But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. Ifyou’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sureit’s not in front of the law. A trip to Poznań’s premier drunktank will set you back 250zł for a 15 hour stay. In return foryour cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas andthe company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resistingarrest will find themselves strapped down to a bed, One FlewOver The Cuckoo’s Nest-style, and if you’re luck is really lowMarket valuesPrices in Poland are still fairly competitive despiteincreases over the last couple of years particularly inthe prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everydayproducts and prices.Market values as of 20th February 2009 based on€1 = 4.72złProduct Price (zł) Price (€)MacDonald's Big Mac 7,50 zł € 1,57Snickers 1,60 zł € 0,340.5ltr vodka (shop) 23,00 zł € 4,820.5ltr beer (shop) 3,00 zł € 0,630.5ltr beer (bar) 7,00 zł € 1,47Loaf of white bread 2,40 zł € 0,5020 Marlboros 9,60 zł € 2,011 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 3,71 zł € 0,78Local transport ticket (15 min.) 2,00 zł € 0,42you may find yourself having daylights beaten out of you bythe guards. Refreshment comes in the form of limitless coffee,though the mug it comes in will smell of urine for a reason.Credit cards not accepted.ClimatePoland has a temperate climate with hot summers and coldwinters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in thewest and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winterand as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tendsto hit around February although the last couple of wintershave been fairly mild. Below is a graphic showing averagetemperatures and rainfall.CustomsIf you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countrieswill not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A workof art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good’and must be authorised before it can leave the country. Ifthe gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie (permission)when you buy the artwork, check with the WojewódzkiKonserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a bookwas printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from theNational Library to take it out of Poland.ClimateRainfall (mm)80706050403020100RainfallTemperature-1,0-0,23,47,913,5Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,www.imgw.pl16,3Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec18,117,813,38,63,40,520151050-5Temperature (°C)Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

14 BASICSBASICS15Language smartsMany Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthycommand of the English language. Many will also be adept atother European languages with German being the most commonlyspoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have areasonable understanding.Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will oftenresult in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at yourflustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smoothyour time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a greathelp once you know how to pronounce each letter/combinationof letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do inEnglish. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’Basic pronunciation of consonants‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’‘drz’ and ‘dż’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last butone syllable.Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to getyou started.Civilitiescześć (cheshch) hi/byedzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/afternoondobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good eveningdobranoc (dobrah-nots) good nighttak (tahk) yesnie (nyeh) noproszę (prosheh) pleasena zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheersdziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank youprzepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorrykocham cię (koham tshe) I love youMam ma imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name isJestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from EnglandNecessitiesGdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee Do you (male/female)po angielsku? pan/panee po speak English?angyelskoo?)Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po I don’t speak Polishpolskupolskoo)Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh Please write it downnapeesatch)Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too Can I smoke here?Jedno piwopoproszępaleech?)(yedno peevo pohprosheh)One beer pleaseNumbers1 jeden yehden2 dwa dva3 trzy tshi10 dziesięć jayshenchGeneralAirportlotniskoTrain station dworzec pkpBus station dworzec pksRight/left prawo/lewoOne ticket to jeden bilet doFirst/second class pierwsza/druga klasaElectricityElectricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are roundwith two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are comingfrom the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plugconvertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as ourresidents Brits will testify although if you do arrive withouta covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. Ifthey don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at oneof the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge oftown. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one inthe airport as you leave.MoneyThinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100złnotes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar,will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coinscan be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes comein denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and tereare 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy chichcome in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywherewith a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will alsobe able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATMcard. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks inyour home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons bevery wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close totourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the bestrate and we have quoted the National Bank of Poland mid-ratein this section. The Polish currency had been exceedingly strongin recent years and peaked at around 3.20zl to the euro (and2zl to the US$) in the summer of 2008. However it has beenon a pretty much downward spiral since then with the valueof the dollar nearly doubling. So already competitive pricesfor food, drink, cultural venues and transport now look verycheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatreor cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission tomost museums costs around 5-10zł.QueuingYears of practice during the cold war era has meant that thePoles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to thepoint, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourselfat a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make themistake of being patient. ‘I’m late for something, can I gofirst’ is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving uptheir place in a line.Old people in particular seem to assume that they should byrights be able to take position at the head of a line. The onlytime when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply are inbanks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will assumea stance as far as possible from the next man, often leadingto confusion who is and who isn’t queuing in the first place.Note that some municipal offices and post offices employ aticket system to help organize queues.ReligionFor over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark ofCatholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasionsand looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and nationalunity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, manyturned to the church for solace and during the communistera, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiouslyheld in churches.The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuinesource of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way moreNational holidaysJanuary 1 New Year’s DayApril 12, 2009 Easter SundayApril 13, 2009 Easter MondayMay 1 Labour DayMay 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)May 31, 2009 Pentecost SundayJune 11, 2009 Corpus ChristiAugust 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary alsoPolish Army DayNovember 1 All Saints’ DayNovember 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)December 25 First Day of ChristmasDecember 26 Second Day of Christmasprofound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Polesgenuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly startedthe overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicismvery seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits ofthe West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving atfirst, particularly the solemn and opulent processions thatoccur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.SafetyIn general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and visitorsare unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist,and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets workingtram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar ora restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, notinside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by carare advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnighttrains are not unheard of, especially on the international routesconnecting Warsaw and Kraków with Prague and Berlin; booka couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistictaxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, somethingto bear in mind around the train station and airport.SmokingSmokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will bedelighted to know that few countries can boast such a fiercecommitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number ofmale smokers has plunged from 70% of the population downto 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendlycountry. Poland is fast becoming the major European productioncentre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris,Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being majorinvestors in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-bustingtaste of a traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeledfor brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mindthat it is taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle,especially if you are close to the coast; an action which apparentlyguarantees the death of a sailor. Non-smokers are in for atough time, and the tobacco free sections (dla niepalących) ofrestaurants are often in the nether-regions of the venue.Street smartsIn this guide we have used the following Polish words andtheir abbreviations:street - ulica (ul.)avenue - aleja (Al.)square - plac (Pl.)market square - Rynekdistrict - osiedle (os.)TippingTipping etiquette in Poland can be confusing for foreigners.While in other countries it’s polite to say thanks when a waitercollects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Polanduttering the word thank you is taken as a sign that you won’tbe wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can getvery expensive. What’s more, the waiter will do his or herbest to make you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to getanything back after realizing your mistake. For the most partit is common to reward good service with a 10% tip once youhave received your change.ToiletsGenerally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circlefor women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is graduallydying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominalfee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you’vealready spent in the establishment. This is a practice alsoused in train stations and most public conveniences.VisasPoland’s entrance into the EU has seen changes galore to visarequirements. Members of the EU, and citizens of Australia,New Zealand, Canada and the US can now enter Polandwithout a visa and stay for a period of three months (Britishcitizens can stay for six months). Visas are obligatory for citizensof any country which does not have an agreement withPoland - you’ll find a relevant list available at www.msz.gov.pl.Visas are not available at airports or land or sea borders andtherefore must be procured from a Polish consulate outside ofPoland. Although there is no set price standard cost is 35Euroand waiting time is usually 14 days. Again, visas issued applyfor 30 or 90 days. Since October 21, 2007 Poland hasbeen a member of the Schengen agreement leading to theelimination of border posts and between member countries.Currently this applies to land crossings, with airports due tofall into line on March 31, 2008. Those wishing to apply forresidency are required to visit the local Urzad Wojewódzkioffice no later that 45 days before your visa expires. A shortterm residency issue can then be issued. Those looking towork in Poland must apply for permission from the VoivodeshipWork Office. The process allegedly takes 14 days though cantake longer depending on the office.Quick currency convertorPLN US$ Euro Pound3.70zł = $1 4.72zł = €1 5.33zł = £11 zł $0,27 € 0,21 £0,192 zł $0,54 € 0,42 £0,383 zł $0,81 € 0,64 £0,564 zł $1,08 € 0,85 £0,755 zł $1,35 € 1,06 £0,946 zł $1,62 € 1,27 £1,137 zł $1,89 € 1,48 £1,318 zł $2,16 € 1,69 £1,509 zł $2,43 € 1,91 £1,6910 zł $2,70 € 2,12 £1,8820 zł $5,41 € 4,24 £3,7550 zł $13,51 € 10,59 £9,38100 zł $27,03 € 21,19 £18,76150 zł $40,54 € 31,78 £28,14200 zł $54,05 € 42,37 £37,52250 zł $67,57 € 52,97 £46,901 000 zł $270,27 € 211,86 £187,62Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

16HISTORYHISTORY17The Wielkopolska UprisingSince the Third Partition of 1795 Poland had effectivelyceased to be a country, wiped off the map and carvedbetween Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria.Poznań enjoyed brief freedom in 1806, when Napoleon’sconquering troops marched eastwards, liberating much ofPoland and placing the city under the independent jurisdictionof the Duchy of Warsaw. But Napoleon’s militarydisaster on the plains of Russia was to prove just yearsaway, resulting in the 1815 Congress of Vienna which sawPoznań once more delivered back into Prussian hands.There it was to remain for over a century later. With Europereeling after years of war, Germany in collapse and Russiaplunged into revolutionary chaos patriotic fervour oncemore simmered to the surface. The people of Poznań,overwhelmingly Polish, could sense independence wasround the corner, but there remained one crucial stickingpoint: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolskaregion. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independentPoland had failed to set any boundaries, and while Warsawwas back in the hands of a Polish government Poznań wasstill answerable to Berlin.Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918,the native Poznonian’s had been plotting an uprising.Positions in local government and industry were forciblyseized by Poles and the countdown was on for outrightwar. Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit onDecember 27. Historical accounts of how the Uprisingstarted vary; some sources claim it was the shootingof Francizek Ratajaczak on the steps of the policeheadquarters that started the initial fighting, thoughmost point to a stirring speech given by the pianist andpatriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski on the balcony of what wasthen the Bazar Hotel. While addressing the Polish crowdassembled below a German counter-demonstrationpassed by – within moments shots had been fired andthe Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which sidestarted the hostilities, but either way there was no turningback the clock. Within hours Polish forces had capturedthe train station and post office, while elsewhere in theregion other towns rose up in rebellion.Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak thePolish forces followed up with numerous swift successesagainst a German army shattered from four years of worldwar. Neighbouring towns like Kórnik, and Mogilno wereliberated though several counter attacks suggested astiffening in German resolve. Fighting continued into theNew Year and by January the situation was out of hand. Tosave the region from a descent into anarchy the governmentin waiting (christened NRL) took charge of all civiland military issues, conscripting all men born between1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oathsof allegiance in what is today (B-2) pl. Wolnośći, the Polishtroops continued to march into increasingly fierce battleswith their German counterparts.Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in nosmall part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 sawthe beginning of international peace talks, and within twodays the French delegation had persuaded the Germansto sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, thistime including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fightingcontinued for the next few days, but to all intentsand purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, wereliberated.Some highlights of Poznań’s millennium-long journey fromDark Ages settlement to 21st-century city commercialawakening.10th centuryIn 968 the first Polish cathedral is erected here. In 992Mieszko I, the first ruler of Poland, is buried in PoznańCathedral.12th centuryPoznań begins to develop. At the end of the century, membersof the Knights of Malta settle at St. Nicholas’ Church andfound the earliest hospital in Poznań.13th centuryIn 1253, Przemysł, Prince of Wielkopolska, bestowsMagdeburg Law rights to the town of Poznań. A regular streetsytem is laid out around a central marketplace and a castleis added to the fortifications.14th centuryPoznań goes through its greatest period of expansion andis soon a major centre of European trade.16th centuryA golden age in the city’s development, though in 1536 a firedevastates the Jewish quarter, the Market Place, the TownHall and the Castle.17th centuryProsperity falls after the devastatingly expensive SwedishWars of 1655-1657 and a series of fires and floods. Swedesoccupy Poznań in 1655, Brandenburgians in 1656.18th centuryPoznań runs out of luck. During the Northern War, Russianand Saxon troops besiege the city in 1704. In 1710 a plaguelargely depopulates the town and its suburbs. In 1725 ahurricane destroys the towers of the Town Hall and theCathedral. And in 1736, the worst flood in the town’s historywipes out almost a third of the town’s houses.19th centuryNapoleon has his headquarters here for two weeks in 1806.As the Prussians convert Poznań into a military stronghold,the local Poles resist the Germanisation process and formtheir own cultural and economic organisations.20th centuryThe Wielkopolska Uprising of December 1918 starts inPoznań and wins freedom for the region. In 1918-1919,Poznań is the base of the National People’s Council and theadministrative centre for lands formerly under Prussian rule.From 1939-1945, the local Jewish community is wiped out,much of the town’s population is killed or displaced and abouthalf of the city’s buildings are destroyed. On January 23,1945, Russian troops reach Poznań. With 5,000 mobilisedlocals, they drive out the Germans after a month. The WarsawPact is created in 1955.1956June 28 - 120,000 protestors in Poznań demand “bread,truth and freedom”, and 76 are killed in street fighting withthe army. A political thaw begins that year under WładysławGomułka.1970Gdańsk shipyard workers strike in December to protestpoor living standards and rising prices. The police and armyintevene, killing 44 strikers. Unrest forces Gomułka out ofgovernment.1978Cardinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the nameJohn Paul II.1980The fledgeling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyardelectrician Lech Wałęsa, calls a general strike.1981December 13 - The Prime Minister, General WojciechJaruzelski, declares martial law.1983Pope John Paul II makes his first visit to Poznań. Martial lawis lifted and Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize.1985-88Poland’s economic crisis deepens and popular frustrationgrows.1989Solidarność is legalised and the government agrees to meet21 demands for improved living and working conditions.Partly free elections are held. When Solidarność sweeps theelections the communist regime collapses. Nonetheless, theparliament elects General Jaruzelski president.August - The first post-communist prime minister, TadeuszMazowiecki, forms a coalition government.1990January 1 - Price and monetary restrictions are abandonedin an attempt to find a natural economic equilibrium. Inflationleaps, at one point reaching 79% per year. December 9 - LechWałęsa becomes the first popularly elected president ofpost-communist Poland.1995November 19 - Former communist Aleksander Kwaśniewskidefeats Lech Wałęsa in presidential elections.2001September 23 - Populist parties enjoy unprecedentedsuccess in parliamentary elections and Solidarność, a majorforce in 1989, disappears from the political scene.2004Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 sparkinga mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortune.2005April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John PaulII passes away. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by amillion Poles.1956 UprisingJune 2006 marked the 50th anniversary of ThePoznań Riots, the first recognized strike and streetdemonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutallysuppressed this show of people’s strength remains anintense source of pride for the local community, andthough it would be another 33 years until the people ofPoland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlinthe uprising led to a significant liberalization of Sovietpolicy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth ofthe Solidarity movement.The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certaindegree of optimism among Poles and promised an endto the social and political terror associated with theSoviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe.But these hopes were to prove shortlived and NikitaKhruschev’s address to the 20th Convention of theUSSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of strengtheningsocialism’s grip on the East, and of the dangers ofindividualism. Simmering with discontent the Polishmedia helped stir local discord and on June 28 strikesbroke out in Poznań’s factories – originally in the Stalinbrick factory (now the Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory),before spreading to the city’s other major industrialplants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended onthe Municipal National Council (now the Zamek building),chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out withBolshevism’, while demanding lower prices, higher wagesand a reduction in work quotas.Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn whenit was revealed that the team negotiating on behalfof the strikers up in Warsaw had been arrested anddetained by the authorities. Infuriated by this break inprotocol the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison,liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizingarmaments. Armed with 188 assorted small armsand petrol bombs the insurgents marched back to thecity centre to continue their protests. With a volatileatmosphere threatening to run out of control thecommunist authorities reacted in their traditional manner– by over-reacting.Under the command of Stanisław Popławski 10,300soldiers were deployed to Poznań, as well as 400 tanksand 30 armoured personnel carriers. Fierce streetbattles followed, but with the city cut off from the outsideworld order was eventually restored on June 30. Theclashes left 76 civilians (unofficial estimates claim thenumber to be vastly higher) and eight soldiers dead,and over 600 strikers injured. Victims included RomanStrzałkowski, a thirteen year old boy shot through theheart while waving a Polish flag, and the news of theriots helped spark off an equally heroic anti-communistuprising in Budapest.Although Poland was to suffer another three decades ofCommunist control the riots played a huge influence inthe shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish CommunistParty was left reeling from the chaos, and several Stalinsthardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid toappease the people. Władysław Gomułka was appointedFirst Secretary and limited social reforms and a smallscalelifting of press censorship followed.A new museum commemorating the events of 1956has been opened in the Zamek on ul. Sw. Marcin (seeWhat to see). It is definitely worth taking a while to visitto really understand the momentous events of thePoznan June.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

18 CULTURE & EVENTSCULTURE & EVENTS19As far as culture is concerned Poznan has an enormousamount to offer. There are theatres and concert halls withthe Poznań Philharmonic, The Great Theatre and PolishDance Theatre to the fore. Events, concerts, exhibitionsand festivals are all organised by the Castle Cutural Centrewhich covers Poznań and Estrada Poznańska. Other festivalsinclude the Duende International Flamenco Festival,Tzadik Poznań Festival, Animator, Malta InternationalTheatre Festival and World Press Photo exhibition. If thatdoesn’t puff you out, try the marathon, the biggest in thecountry.Art GalleriesABC Gallery (Galeria ABC) D-3, ul. Garbary 38/6,tel. 061 853 02 91, www.abcgallery.pl. Modern artexhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admissionfree.Arsenal City Gallery (Galeria Miejska Arsenał)C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95 01, www.arsenal.art.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. ClosedMon. Admission 3/2zł.Artistic Ceramics (Ceramika Artystyczna) D-2,ul. Woźna 4, tel. 061 853 02 35. Ceramics, cups andteapots. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. ClosedSun. Admission free.Ego Gallery (Galeria Ego) C-2, ul. Wrocławska 19,tel. 061 853 15 81, www.galeriaego.pl. Modern art gallery.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00- 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.FS Gallery (Galeria FS) A-2, ul. Kościuszki 74, tel. 061853 79 86, www.galeriafs.com.pl. Paintings, sculptures,artistic glass, graphics and jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.Garbary 48 Gallery (Galeria Garbary 48) D-3, ul.Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.garbary48.com.pl. Contemporary Polish paintings, sculptures and graphics.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Admission free.Renes Gallery (Galeria Renes) D-2, ul. Wodna 8/9,tel. 061 855 75 42, www.renes.com.pl. Changing exhibitionsof contemporary Polish artists. Also on ul. Półwiejska 42(Stary Browar). QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.Closed Sun. Admission free.Techne Gallery (Galeria Techne) B-2, Pl. Wolności 5,tel. 061 851 85 43, www.galeriatechne.pl. Polish glass,ceramic and clay design objects and jewellery. QOpen 10:30- 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.Ventzi Gallery (Galeria Ventzi) D-3, ul. WszystkichŚwiętych 3/8, tel. 0 501 63 20 92, www.ventzi.art.pl.Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.CinemasPolish cinemas show most of the big internationalreleases in the original language with Polish subtitles. Bewarned though that most kids’ films (and that includescartoons like South Park) are dubbed.Apollo B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 18, tel. 061 851 76 34,www.apollo.poznan.pl.QBox office open depending onrepertoire. Tickets 15-18zł.Cinema-City Kinepolis ul. Krzywoustego 72 (Nowe Miasto),tel. 061 871 56 00, www.cinema-city.pl. A modernmultiplex that boasts 560 screenings a week. Q Box officeopen depending on repertoire. Tickets 14-23zł.Cinema City Plaza / Orange IMAX Winogrady, ul.Drużbickiego 2, tel. 061 662 62 62, www.kinoimax.pl.QBox office open depending on repertoire. Tickets17-26zł.Malta I-3, ul. Filipińska 5, tel. 061 877 24 95, www.kinomalta.pl. You can have a projection of your favouritemovies on request! Q Box office open depending on repertoire.Tickets 12-15zł.Multikino 51 G-4, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, tel. 061 62409 10, www.multikino.pl. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42 (StaryBrowar, F-4). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 15-23zł.Muza B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. 061 852 34 03, www.kinomuza.pl. Q Box office open depending on repertoire.Tickets 5-15zł.Pałacowe A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 64 65204, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Q Box office open 11:00-19:00. Tickets 10-20zł. URialto E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 061 847 53 99,www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Q Box office open dependingon repertoire. Tickets 8-15zł.Dance & MusicMusic Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny) G-4, ul. Niezłomnych1e, tel. 061 852 29 27, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl. QBox Office Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 14:00, Sat 15:00 -18:00, Sun two hours before performance. Tickets 30-40zł.Poznań Estrada C-1, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 61 852 8833, www.estrada.poznan.pl. An organisation which promotessome of the most interesting cultural and artistic events fromthe Polish and International stage. Today it hosts ‘Stage on theFloor’ where once the famous Teatr Osmego Dnia (the 8th DayTheatre) used to perform. This was one of the most successfulstudent originated theatre groups of its time in the 60’s and70’s and Estrada Poznanska are aiming to recreate the legend.Amongst the 70 or so concerts, plays and cabaret performanceswhich they promote each year are ‘Made in Jazz’, School Confrontationswith Art and Events worth meeting (Imprezy wartePoznania). Check out their English language website for moredetails and for dates of upcoming concerts.The Ignacy Jan Paderewski Academy of Music inPoznan (Akademia Muzyczna im. Ignacego JanaPaderewskiego w Poznaniu) F-3, ul. Św. Marcin87, tel. 061 856 89 00, www.amuz.edu.pl. Occasionalevents including workshops and concerts performed byemerging talents.TheatresAnimation Theatre (Teatr Animacji) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin80/82, tel. 061 853 69 64, www.teatranimacji.pl.Children’s theatre. Q Box office Open 10:00 - 12:00, 15:00- 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon. Tickets 16/14zł.Eighth Day Theatre (Teatr Ósmego Dnia) B-2, ul.Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 855 20 86, www.osmego.art.pl. Alternative theatre. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00.Tickets 12-20zł.New Theatre (Teatr Nowy) E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5,tel. 061 847 24 40, www.teatrnowy.pl. Q Box officeOpen 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.Tickets 20-50zł.Polish Theatre (Teatr Polski) B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia8/10, tel. 061 852 56 28, www.teatr-polski.pl. Q Boxoffice Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun on spectacle days only.Closed Mon. Tickets 20-35zł.TicketsCity Information Centre (Centrum InformacjiMiejskiej) B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 9645, www.cim.poznan.pl. The city information office sellstickets for most concerts also on-line, and can inform you ofthe theatre programme. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00- 17:00. Closed Sun.March05 March La Traviata - Opera A-1,Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. 061659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl.Literally translated, ‘La Traviata’ means‘The woman who strayed’ or ‘The FallenOne’. It tells the story of Violetta Valery,a coutesan, and Alfredo, a nobleman, in18th Century Paris. No prizes for guessingthere will be lots of tragic melodramaticgoings on. Q Opera starts at 19:00.Tickets 10-45zł. Available at Great Theatrebox office (Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00).06 March Nosowska - ConcertA-2, Castle Cultural Centre,ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, www.goahead.pl.Kasia Nosowska draws alot of water in these parts, she isone of the most charismatic Polishstars of the last two decades. Thisconcert sees her promoting her new project performing songsof the great and unforgettable Agnieszka Osiecka, who haswritten texts for Polish stars like Maryla Rodowicz, SewerynKrajewski or Irena Santor. Nosowska will perform some of herinterpretations of their hits.Q Concert starts at 20:00.Tickets 75/45zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa 20, C-3(Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun) and CityInformation Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open 10:00-19:00,Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).06-29 March Student Graphic Biennial - ExhibitionC-2, Arsenal City Gallery, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 85295 01, www.arsenal.art.pl. This is the 6th staging of thisevent. The Gallery in collaboration with the Academy of FineArts in Poznań will present the most interesting works of youngstudents who have been invited from all over the country.It’s all with the aim of giving emerging artists a boost so wellworth the effort.Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00,Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł.07 March Eska Rock Tour:Happysad, Muchy - ConcertEskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego39 (Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.pl.This popular Polish rock band willstop in Kraków as part of their“Long Way Tour.” Their 2007 album‘Nieprzygoda’ (Unadventure) hit first place in the Polish rockcharts and was one of the best selling records of the year. QConcert starts at 19:00. Tickets 38/33zł. Available at AcidShop, ul. Ogrodowa 20, C-3 (Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun) and City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka,B-3 (Open 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).07 March Nigel Kennedy &Jarek Śmietana - Concert A-1,Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki76/78, tel. 061 657 07 77,www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Worldfamous spiky-haired, punk, enfantterrible, Villa supporting violinist hascome a long way from his first performancein the Royal Festival Hall in1977. He has strong ties to Poland being musical director atthe Kraków Philharmonic. This time he will be playing with thePolish guitarist and jazz composer Jarek Śmietana. Q Concertstarts at 20:30. Tickets 106/65zł. Available at Blue NoteJazz Club office (Open 12:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun).Castle Cultural CentreCastle Cultural Centre (Centum KulturyZamek) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 64652 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Built originally as aroyal residence (see what to see) at the turn of the 20thcentury by Franz Schwechten to a design ordered byKaiser Wilhelm II, today this is one of Poland’s biggestcultural institutions. Hosting over 700 events annuallyin its palatial halls, rooms and courtyard, the buildingacts as a theatre, gallery, cinema and concert venue.The centre is well-known throught Poland and abroadand often cooperates with other cultural institutionsto host exhibitions, film screenings, plays, conferencesand educational workshops. Q Box office open11:00-19:00, Closed Mon. Admission depending onrepertoire.06-14 June XXXIV St John’s Fair C-2, StaryRynek, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Developed as a means of attracting traders fromdistant lands to Poznań in the days when Poznań wasan important trading post in the centre of Europe, thefairs became an important cultural event attracting notjust traders but artists and performing groups from allover Europe to the city. The fair today stretches over 9days and includes concerts, theatre performances, filmscreenings and a large of antique dealers and collectors.During this year’s fair you will also find an open-air galleryon ul. Zamkowa with the work of both amateur, studentand professional artists.12-14 JuneEthno Port 2009C-2, Stary Rynek, tel.061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Formingpart of the St John’sFair, this festival will presenta series of ‘World Music’concerts inspired by cultural traditions from aroundthe world where artists will be encouraged to come toPoznań to meet and exchange their musical traditionsby performing music in many ethnic styles and withmany different kinds of instruments, many of which arevery rare. Poznań is trying to develop this festival intoPoland’s biggest event of its kind and there will also bea number of workshops during the festival for people tolearn more about world music and its various origins.This year we will have the chance to see Marie Boine, IvaBittova, Habit Koite and many more. Q Ticket priceswere undecided at press time. Please check websitefor updates as they happen.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

20 CULTURE & EVENTSCULTURE & EVENTS21Poznań PhilharmonicPoznań PhilharmonicC-2, ul. Św. Marcin 81,tel. 061 852 47 08,www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl.The PoznańPhilharmonic can traceits origins back to the endof Prussian rule after theWielkopolska Uprising of1919. Over a decade of irregular performances followeduntil a huge effort was made in the early 1930s by a groupof influential musicians to establish a strong organisationin the city. This effort was helped by the local newspaperKurier Poznanski and the first performance of the city’sPhilharmonia, unofficially named the Poznań Philharmonic,took place on the 14th of October 1931.After the trauma of WWII, the Philharmonia was reborn,initally under the title of the Workers’ PhilharmonicSociety and opened its first season as the Poznań Philharmoniconce again in 1947. Today, the concerts of thePoznań Philharmonic are held in the historic auditoriumof the Adam Mickiewicz University. Q Box office Open13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance.Tickets 15-40zł.02 AprilDon’t Startle theLove - Concert A concertorganised to markthe 4th anniversary of thedeath of John Paul II. It’s apop concert in a classicalsetting with young artistsincluding Eurovisioncontestant MieczysławSzcześniak well as AgnieszkaGorączkowska,Jan Radwan and others.Q Concert starts at 21:00.Tickets 15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic boxoffice (Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour beforeperformance).22 May Stars of World Stages - Concert StephenHough is a well-known pianist. Together with conductorDaniel Stabrawa he will perform a number of compositionsby Tchaikovsky and Mozart. When he isn’t performinglive Hough is locked in a studio by his management;he has recorded over 40 CD’s. Q Concert starts at19:00. Tickets 10-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonicbox office (Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour beforeperformance).12 JuneSeason Finale - ConcertThis is a traditionalevent which marks theend of the 2008/2009season. Marek Pijarowskiwill be swinging the batonand we can also see AdamMickiewicz University Academic Choir, Adam MickiewiczUniversity Chamber Choir, Poznań Chamber Choir, PoznańBoys’ Choir all performing compositions from the repetioreof Carl Orff. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic box office (Open13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance).13 March MaciejObara Trio - ConcertA-1, Blue Note Jazz Club,ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel.061 657 07 77, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Thisgroup of three young, talentedambitious musiciansis inspired by the likes ofMiles Davis, Tomasz Stańko and Ornett Coleman. At theKrokus Jazz Festival Maciej Obara was awarded the title ofthe best saxophonist. In years to come you will be able tobrag to your jazz chums that you saw them first!Q Concertstarts at 20:00. Ticket prices were undecided at press time.Please check website for updates as they happen.14 March Indios Bravos- Concert Eskulap,ul. Przybyszewskiego 39(Jeżyce), tel. 061 665 8802, www.eskulap.art.pl.Founded in 1996 by PiotrBanach (ex-member of Hey)and Gutek, with the help ofPolish TV star Kuba Wojewódzki,Indios Bravos are oneof the most famous andpopular reggae bands tohave come out of Poland.QConcert starts at 19:00. Tickets 30/25zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Ratajczaka 44, B-2 (Open 09:00 -22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00).28 March O.S.T.R. -Concert Eskulap, ul.Przybyszewskiego 39(Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.pl. Involved in hip-hop sincethe age of 12, O.S.T.R is oneof the most well-know Polishrappers and producers,performing at Open’er festivalin Gdynia. Known forhis freestyle raps that touchon marijuana, current socialand political issues andmarijuana, he is one of theonly Polish emcees with amusic education and hasbeen working for MTV oflate. Q Concert starts at20:00. Tickets 35/29zł. Available at www.eventim.pl andEmpik, ul. Ratajczaka 44, B-2 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00- 18:00).28 March Youth andFantasy - Concert C-2,Poznań Philharmonic, ul.Św. Marcin 81, tel. 061852 47 08, www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl.Yourchance to hear some Mendelssohnand Berlioz. Theconcert will be led by MarekPijarowski: a conductor who conducted Polish orchestras allover the world including Germany, Spain, France. A must forall fans of classical music. Q Concert starts at 18:00.Tickets 15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic box office(Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance).29 March Lord of theDance Arena, ul.Wyspiańskiego 33 (Jeżyce),tel. 022 827 96 83, www.aart.pl. The original twiddlytoe-tappers arrive for more,yes more, synchronised jumpingup and down - 151,000 taps, yes count them, make upthis unique spectacle. It’s all lead as usual by Michael Flatleywith music by Ronan Hardiman and takes us on a journeythrough the land of Irish Legends - well, they do say thatFlatley will get you anywhere. Q Event starts at 19:00.Tickets 100-150zł. Available at www.eventim.pl, www.ticketonline.pland Media Markt, ul. Bukowska 156, E-3 (Open09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).29 March Pure ReasonRevolution - Concert A-1,Blue Note Jazz Club, ul.Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061657 07 77, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Alterntive band PureReason Revolution, in the 90sknown as The Sunset Sound,hail from Britain and will be playingin Poland as part of a tour topromote their new album. Q Concert starts at 20:00.Tickets 49zł. Available at Blue Note Jazz Club office (Open12:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun).April 200901 April Patricia Barber -Concert Eskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego39 (Jeżyce),www.go-ahead.pl. Barber is ajazz pianist and singer characterisedby her low moody vocals andmelancholic tone. It is the firstconcert of the Poznań Jazz Fair andalso celebtrates the 30th anniversaryof the Eskulap jazz club.QTime was undecided at press time.Please check website for updates as they happen. Tickets90/80zł. Available at City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka 44,B-3 (Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,Closed Sun).03 April Strachy na Lachy- Concert Eskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego39 (Jeżyce),www.go-ahead.pl. This popularPolish rock band will stopin Kraków as part of their“Long Way Tour.” Their 2007album ‘Nieprzygoda’ (Unadventure)hit first place in the Polish rock charts and was oneof the best selling records of the year. Q Concert starts at20:00. Tickets 35/32zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa20, C-3 (Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun)and City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).Events as they happenCheck what’s on and wherePoint yourself towww.inyourpocket.comGreat TheatreGreat TheatreA-1, ul. Fredry 9,tel. 061 659 02 00,www.opera.poznan.pl. The name is a bitof a misnomer as theGreat Theatre todayis home to Opera andBallet. Built in 1910 byMax Littman as a citytheatre house for theGerman population ofwhat was then PrussianPosen, the lastGerman peformancewas held in 1919 beforethe WielkopolskaUprising. Plays continuedto be performeduntil 1924 when it became a full-time home to PolishOpera. Under the Nazis the building received a renovationled by the German architect Paul Bankarten but was sooncaught up in the whirlwind of WWII where it served as ahospital for wounded German soldiers between 1943 and1945. Despite extensive damage to the city of Poznanin the German retreat to Berlin, the ‘theatre’ was able tobegin performances of Opera and Ballet again in 1945,something which has continued to this day.Today the Great Theatre is a symbol of the historyof Polish opera and offers a diverse repretoire ofclassical and contemporary opera with particularemphasis on the development of Polish opera. Inthe permanent repretoire are 40 operas and 15ballets with new projects continually being addedto develop the ‘theatre’ as an international venuefor Polish and world opera. International audiencesare particularly attracted to the Polish-GermanHoffmann festival, the Poznan Days of Verdi festivalwhere all the works of the composer are presentedand the Poznan Spring of Ballet festival. Photo: K.Citak.QBox office Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00- 19:00. Tickets 10-45zł.19-29 AprilIX Hoffmann FestivalA-1, Great Theatre,ul. Fredry 9, tel.061 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. The9th outing for this Operafestival celebratingthe work of the librettistand composer wholived in Poznań between 1800 and 1802. Thistime the festival will be open with Tannhauser byWagner, a story of a German soldier based on amedieval legend. The programme also includesCoppelia by Leo Delibes, Aurora, Ondyna by Hoffmannand everybody’s favourite The Nutcrackerby Tchaikovsky. A simply wonderful series ofshows. Q Ticket prices and schedule wereundecided at press time. Please check websitefor updates as they happen. Tickets available atGreat Theatre box office (Open 13:00-19:00, Sun16:00 - 19:00).Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

22 CULTURE & EVENTSCULTURE & EVENTS2304 April Sabaton - Concert Eskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego39 (Jeżyce), tel. 061 665 88 02, www.eskulap.art.pl. Organised as part of the 90th anniversary of independencecelebrations, this Swedish hard rock group willperform their largely political songs for the crowds. Many ofthe bands songs centre around the topic of war, especiallyWWII; in fact their song ‘40:1’ about the 1939 battle betweenPoland and Germany near the passage of Wizna, exemplifiestheir anti-war stance. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets65zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Ratajczaka44, B-2 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00).05 April - 14 June Rembrandt’sGraphics - Problemof Originals, Copiesand Late Reprints C-2,National Museum, Al.Marcinkowskiego 9, tel.061 852 59 69, www.mnp.art.pl. This exhibition will present one of the biggest collectionof Rembrandt’s Graphics in Poland with most of the workscoming from XVII and XVIII century. The commentary duringthe exhibition will be based on the latest research on the greatman. It’s not just looking at picture though, there are documentariesand workshops to take part in.QOpen . Admission5.50/3.50zł, Sat free.05 April The Subways - ConcertEskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego39 (Eskulap), www.goahead.pl.British youngsters TheSubways have received rave reviewsfor their first two albums Young forEternity and All or Nothing. Theirbrand of youthful guitar mayhemguarantees a lively night out. QConcert starts at 19:00. Tickets39zł. Available at www.eventim.pl.07 April Mike Reed’s PeoplePlaces and Things C-1, Estrada, ul.Masztalerska 8, tel. 061 852 88 33,www.estrada.poznan.pl. Mike Reed isa composer and drummer and The ChicagoTribute chose him as their artist ofthe year 2008. This concert will be acontinuation of a cycle called ‘Made inChicago’, which presents the most interestingjazz artists from The Windy Cityscene. People Places and Things is a newproject by Mike Reed with the quartet presenting new interpretationsof compositions of Chicago jazz musicians from1954-1960.QTicket prices and time were undecided at presstime. Please check website for updates as they happen.16 April Lao Che - ConcertEskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego39 (Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.pl.A weird group whose name wasinspired by an Indiana Jones film,and whose music mixes Slovakculture with electro music. Theirthird album was released as recentlyas February 2008, so expecta focus on their latest material.QConcert starts at 20:00. Tickets32/27zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa 20, C-3(Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun) andCity Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).17 April Carl Craig - ConcertC-3, SQ Club, ul. Półwiejska 42,www.illegalbreaks.com. Carl Craigis a pioneer in Techno and electronicmusic pioneer Carl Craig manages tobalance sqeaky noises and real humanemotions. During the concert hewill present material from his latestalbum: Sessions. Q Concert startsat 22:00. Tickets 30zł. Available atwww.eventim.pl.25 April Coma - Concert Eskulap,ul. Przybyszewskiego 39(Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.pl. Thesehard-rockers from Łódz becamepopular touring in support of bignames like T.Love, Sweet Noise, Kazikand Acid Drinkers, as well as internationalstars like Tool, Pearl Jam andLinkin Park. Winners of the audienceaward at the Polish Woodstock in2006, they’ll be thumping the Katowicecrowd with songs from their recentlyreleased third album, Hypertrophy.Q Concert startsat 20:00. Tickets 38/33zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa20, C-3 (Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, ClosedSun) and City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).25 April Ulf Wakenius &AMC trio - Concert A-1,Blue Note Jazz Club, ul.Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061657 07 77, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Hailing from SwedenWakenius is a blues guitaristwell-known all over Scandanavia.He draws on influences from farand wide - in the 80’s he went toRio De Janeiro where he recorded one of his best albums,mixing blues with South American flavours. Q Concertstarts at 20:00. Ticket prices were undecided at presstime. Please check website for updates as they happen.28 March - A Broadway Musical- Thriller Live Arena, ul.Wyspiańskiego 33 (Jeżyce), tel.022 696 99 00, www.makroconcert.pl.Owwww! You know the hits,you’ve seen the videos, now come andsee the musical based on the glovedone’s life. Our sources tell us that whenMichael saw the show for himself, hecouldn’t stop crying... It’s been all overthe world and finally arrives in Polandand is full of all the later hits as well as the earlier tunes he didwith his brothers in the Jackson 5. Q Event starts at 18:00.Tickets 90-150zł. Available at www.makroconcert.com.May08 May - 07 June PhotoBiennial A-2, Castle CulturalCentre, ul. Św. Marcin80/82, tel. 061 64652 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. This exhibitionhas the lofty aim of makingus reflect on the role ofphotography in the modern world and how this role canbe used to manipulate us. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, ClosedMon. Admission free.10-13 May Rigoletto - OperaA-1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel.061 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. Rigoletto who is the Royal Jesterhides his daughter Gilda from the eyesof the world. Despite his attempts tokeep her safe she is seduced by theunfaithful prince. To revenge this Rigolettohires an assassin to kill hismaster. The song performed by theprince made this opera famous worldwideQ Opera starts at 19:00. Tickets 10-45zł. Availableat Great Theatre box office (Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00- 19:00).29 May The Rempis PercussionQuartet - Concert C-1, Estrada, ul.Masztalerska 8, tel. 061 852 88 33,www.estrada.poznan.pl. Anotherconcert from the Made in Chicago cycle,presenting the most talented stars ofChicago jazz industry. Dave Rempis isalso the saxophonist of the group Vandermark5. Established in 2004 TheRempis Percussion Quartet takes itsinspirations from Eastern African tradition,funk and free jazz. Their latest album Hunter-Gatherershas been decribed as the best experimental albums of theyear. Q Concert starts at 20:30. Ticket prices were undecidedat press time. Please check webswide for updates asthey happen.June23 June Chris Corea -Concert A-1, A. MickiewiczUniversity Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego1, www.goahead.pl.Alongside HerbieHancock, Corea is consideredone of the finest jazz pianistsand composers of recenttimes. He had a major impacton the development of suchmusic styles as free jazz andpost-bop. It all began at the tender age of 4 when he first satin front of a piano, but by the end of the 60’s he had performedin the Miles Davis group. Part of the jazz aristocracy for sure.Q Ticket prices and time were undecided at press time.Please check the website for updates as they happen.OngoingUntil 31 March Born in Revolt.Great Poland Army 1918-1921.(Zrodzone w Powstaniu. WojskaWielkopolskie 1918 - 1921)C-1/2, National Museum, Al.Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 85267 39, www.mnp.art.pl. The 90thanniversary of the Wielkpolska Uprisingis remembered by way of paintings,photographs and other mementosfrom the era. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00,Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission 5.50/3.50zł,Sat free.Have Your SayIf you have had an experience to remember at any ofthe venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly ordownright sad, let the two million regular unique visitorsto our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it.Every venue on our website now has a module below itfor you to comment on the places we write about. Youcan agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us tohell (in the case of angry restaurant owners unhappywith their reviews).Buddha Bar, PoznanI went to Buddha with friends in November, and have beenthere twice before. But what I saw and experienced that nightwas pathetic. Atmosphere: There was two pretty hot girls onthe floor. A group of drunk, black clad men approached themand one of them threw his glass on the floor. Girls smiled,there was conversation, anyhow one of them started fiddlingwith the DJs dials, and the DJ was too scared to do anything.Then I saw one of the drunk guys making some mess, hesaw me and hit my head! I tried to calm him down. Pointless.I went to find a security and the manager to tell them therewas a situation. I showed them the aggressive guy (he washitting someone else at the time!) but the security guardtold me to go away. Apparently the drunk guy was one ofthe security team! In fact, I was advised to ‘get the fuck outhere, if you don’t want me to crash your face!’. The managersaw all of this but did nothing!Posted by BestjaW Starym KinieIrritating. Full of pseudo thesps and other studenty typespooling together their meagre funds to share two beersbetween them. Once one of the top alternative bars inPoznan, now it’s just a noisy student trap.Posted by Bristol ExileSQoh God, I would never have guessed there were somany morons in Poznan until I came here. As yourreviewer says, it’s Big Time Bertie Central here - faketans and Prada bling. What horrible people, I don’t carehow good the music is, they’d have to pay me to spendmy time with such heinous characters. Gimme a longnight knocking back the booze in puzon over this anyday of the week.Posted by Behind YouPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

24 WHERE TO STAYWHERE TO STAY25More than Welcome, Benvenutiul. Sw. Marcin 2, 61-803 PoznanT. +48 618590 590 F.+48 618590 591prestige@dominahotels.plwww.dominahotels.comIn most hotels prices shoot up during fairs and they can hardlybe called fair rates. Rooms rates tend to double during theannual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs and priceswill fluctuate according to the importance of the fair. On theplus side most hotels offer substantial weekend discounts.Prices listed include breakfast and VAT unless otherwisenoted. Hotels list their prices in either złoty, euro or US dollars- either way your bill will be calculated using the exchange rateof the day and presented to you in local currency.UpmarketNEWBlow Up Hall G-4, ul. Półwiejska 32, www.blowuphall5050.com.If you want wow factor then look no further,the Blow Up Hall is the most exciting hotel development Poznan,maybe even Poland, has ever seen. Attached to the StaryBrowar building this is little less than a work of art. Designedby Tadao Ando, and based on a project by Rafael Lozano-Symbol keyP Air conditioningO CasinoT Child friendlyR InternetF Fitness centreK RestaurantD SaunaA Credit cards acceptedH Conference facilitiesU Facilities for the disabledL Guarded parkingG Non-smoking roomsC Swimming poolW Wi-FiHemmer, the aim of this hotel is to allow guests to ‘experienceand participate in the creation of art’. Pretentious? You bet. Butwho cares, if there’s one place you should scrimp and save tostay in, it’s this one. Perks include in house spa, butler service,DVDs on request and iphones for guests. There’s little point indescribing the individually designed rooms, suffice to say theymake use of the latest fads, trends and techno gimmickery;you really have to see it to believe it. Q Prices unavailable atpress time due to a clash with the directors holiday.Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. 061 858 68 68,fax 061 858 68 69, recepcja@brovaria.pl, www.brovaria.pl. The lower floors are home to one of Poland’s only microbreweries,and if that doesn’t convince you to stay, then a quicklook around the rooms will. Furnished with taste rooms bridge thegap between contemporary styles and the classic touches theirold town location deserves. Cream coloured accommodationincludes cable TV, dataports and complicated flower arrangements,and some have views overlooking the main square.Q21 rooms (3 singles 250 - 410zł, 17 doubles 290 - 470zł, 1apartment 430 - 580zł). PTJHARKW hhhDomina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2,tel. 061 859 05 90, fax 061 859 05 91, prestige@dominahotels.pl, www.dominahotels.com. Domina offersluxury serviced apartments, packed with designer trappingsand gadgets. Top-class accommodation comes with soundsystem, bathrobes and fully fitted lounge and kitchen areasincluded in the price.Q40 rooms (40 apartments 399 -820zł). PTARLGW hhhhHP Park K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. 061 874 11 00, fax 0618741200, hppoznan@beph.pl, www.hotelepark.pl. Tidy roomsa stone’s throw from Lake Malta. Pastel coloured rooms come withuniform three star accessories: telephone, cable TV and minibar, whilethe business centre attracts a regular stream of busy looking travellers.All rooms will have been renovated by the end of November.Q98rooms (97 singles 310 - 520zł, 97 doubles 380 - 620zł, 1 apartment600 - 800zł). PTHAULGKW hhhIBB Andersia Hotel G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 66780 00, fax 061 667 80 01, rezerwacja@andersiahotel.pl, www.andersiahotel.pl. The location is unbeatable,with the Stary Browar shopping centre next door and theold town a shot away. Included in the deal are an indoorpool, air-conditioning throughout, and top-band conferencefacilities. Fitted with plasma screens and heated bathroomfloors this is a choice pampering experience, with windowside sofas proving a great spot to enjoy your complimentarymorning paper. Long term guests have the choice of threeluxury apartments located on the upper floors.Q171rooms (105 singles 460 - 820zł, 42 doubles 525 - 885zł,24 apartments 545 - 1750zł). PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhMat’s ul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. 061868 78 31, fax 061 861 41 78, hotel@hotelmats.pl, www.hotelmats.pl. An engaging combination ofclassic and modern; antique clocks and rococo-stylearmchairs next to shining glass and tennis courts. Thisis not your standard three star venture, and as such iswell worth the taxi ride from the city centre. Rooms havehad a thorough refit in the last few months, cementingthe status of Mat’s as one of Poznań’s premier choices.Q36 rooms (25 singles 219 - 449zł, 22 doubles 269 -549zł, 9 suites 339 - 599zł, 2 apartments 369 - 629zł).PHARUGKD hhhMercure Poznań E-3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. 061855 80 00, fax 061 855 89 55, rez.mer.poznan@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. A two-minute walk for theinternational Trade Fair, so no prizes for guessing thatmost visitors hail from the business community. Excellentconference facilities and modern rooms equippedwith dataports and cable TV. Q228 rooms (227 singles459 - 799zł, 227 doubles 459 - 799zł, 1 apartment1000 - 1750zł). Breakfast 65zł. PTHARUFLGKDW hhhhNH A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. 061 624 88 00, fax061 624 88 01, nhpoznan@nh-hotels.com, www.nh-hotels.com. The NH wins our favour for the fullyrestored art nouveau frontage, behind which guests willfind an upscale four star endeavor that fully warrantsthe slightly steep prices. Check-in is conducted in asleek room walled with dark woods, while sleeping isreserved for stylishly simple bedrooms, kitted out withpuffy beds, rich colours, wood floors and a chic ‘less ismore’ fashion.Q93 rooms (93 singles €89 - 119, 93doubles €89 - 119). Breakfast €17. PTHARUFGKDW hhhhNotus City Park Residence ul. Wyspiańskiego26 (Grunwald), tel. 061 221 84 00, fax 061 221 8402, notuspoznan@fortenhotels.pl, www.fortenhotels.pl.An oasis of opulence and class the Notus offersluxury accommodation in a low-level turn-of-the-centurybuilding, whose exterior makes use of sandblastedbrickwork and plenty of glass. Rooms are nothingless than the final word in designer living and sport32 inch flatscreen TVs, king size beds, safe and workdesk, while the bathrooms come dripping with plentyof posh toiletries and goodies to secretly swipe beforeyou leave. And don’t forget your swimming togs either,set under a curvy glass roof the pool here is one of theseven wonders of Poznań. You’ll also find microwavesinside the rooms, which is a good job - this place isso new the restaurant hasn’t been finished yet.Q88rooms (88 apartments 265 - 840zł). PTHARFGDCWPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

26 WHERE TO STAYWHERE TO STAY27Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1,tel. 061 858 71 51, fax 061 833 29 61, rez.nov.poznan@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. Smart, newlyrenovatedrooms found inside one of the tallest hotelsin the city. Each room comes with pristine bathroom,dataport, CNN and minibar. Q480 rooms (460 singles235 - 881zł, 310 doubles 235 - 881zł, 10 apartments575 - 1394zł). Breakfast 60zł. Also check with thehotel for special daily prices. POTHARUFGKW hhhNovotel Poznań Malta K-3, ul. Warszawska 64/66,tel. 061 654 31 00, fax 061 654 31 95, rez.nov.malta@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. A cost-effective,squat hotel on the edges of Lake Malta. You know whatyou’re getting with Novotel, and all codes of Western practiceare tightly observed. Staff have been programmed toshow patience and good humour, while rooms are brightand modern. Q149 rooms (149 singles 179 - 639zł, 149doubles 179 - 639zł). Breakfast 44zł. Also check with thehotel for special daily prices. T HARUFLGKW hhhRoyal A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. 061 858 2300, fax 061 858 23 06, royal@hotel-royal.com.pl, www.hotel-royal.com.pl. Plenty of character andhistory inside this courtyard hotel. Having served asarmy HQ during the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising, Royalis decorated with wood panelling, floral-patternedduvets and plum colour schemes. The Mr Fix-It staffcan organize everything from car rentals to sightseeingtours, while guests can also enjoy a 24hr bar. Q31rooms (9 singles 224 - 380zł, 14 doubles 294 - 460zł,7 suites 315 - 485zł, 1 apartment 350 - 535zł).HALGW hhhSheraton Poznań Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel.061 655 20 00, fax 061 655 20 01, reservations.poznan@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/.Just steps away from the Trade Fair, though this is morethan the business travellers choice. The Sheraton Poznan isthe number one hotel in town, with a chic modern style thatcovers every inch of the hotel. Accommodation comes withflat screen TVs, walk-in showers, top-notch sound proofingand the most comfortable beds in the country. Head to theupper floors to enjoy facilities like the swimming pool andfitness room, or check out the executive lounge for videogames, magazines and beverages. It’s very impressive, butwhat really stands out here are the staff; experts in hospitality.Q181 rooms (168 singles 375 - 990zł, 168 doubles 375 -990zł, 13 apartments 615 - 4040zł). Breakfast 90zł. Tax 7%.PTHARUFGKDCW hhhhhStare Miasto (The Old Town) C-3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel.061 659 00 43, fax 061 663 62 42, rezerwacja@hotelstaremiasto.pl,www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. Prim rooms fullydeserving the three stars they have been granted. All comewith ensuite bathrooms and internet access, and given theold town location are surprisingly large. The studio and apartmentare also open for business and are fully air-conditioned.Conference facilities: a conference room up to 40 people, airconditionedwith a screen, projector and sound system. Notethat not all rooms have air conditioning.Q23 rooms (3 singles195 - 345zł, 18 doubles 255 - 475zł, 1 suite 275 - 530zł, 1apartment 350 - 690zł). PJHARGW hhhTrawiński G-1, ul. Żniwna 2, tel. 061 827 58 00, fax061 820 57 81, office@hoteltrawinski.com.pl, www.hoteltrawinski.com.pl. Swish rooms with modern trappings,yellowish colour schemes and adjustable air-conditioning.Tucked on a quiet rise overlooking Citadel Park. On-sitefacilities also include hairdresser and the full line of conferenceservices. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q58 rooms (51 singles 240 - 430zł, 36 doubles 299- 580zł, 6 suites 390 - 700zł, 1 apartment 900 - 1200zł).PTHARUFLGKD hhhhVivaldi G-1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. 061 858 81 00, fax061 853 29 77, vivaldi@vivaldi.pl, www.vivaldi.pl. Acurvy, futuristic exterior shields one of Poznań’s premierhotels. Upscale and comfortable, the highlight has to be thetwo-level suite, with a downstairs bedroom accessed by aset of spiral stairs. Rooms come armed with all the moderntrappings, including dataports and mini-bars. Q48 rooms(38 singles 260 - 480zł, 9 doubles 390 - 690zł, 1 apartment590 - 820zł). PTHARLGKDCW hhhhMid-rangeAstra ul. Lutycka 31 (Jeżyce), tel./fax 061 848 94 72,astra@astra.ta.pl, www.astra.ta.pl. With its vertical ‘HOTEL’sign and roadside location Astra could easily be a motel in Nowhere,USA. Sterile and overpriced, the weary furnishings needan immediate update. Six kilometres from town, so add taxifares to the price. Q12 rooms (5 doubles 220 - 460zł, 6 triples320 - 620zł, 1 quad 420 - 750zł). HAUGKW hhCampanile E-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. 061 84566 00, fax 061 845 66 01, poznan@campanile.com.pl, www.campanile.com.pl. The Poznań Campanile iseverything we’ve come to expect from such a good valuechain; high standard modern rooms furnished with a colourfulflourish. Bathtubs, net connection and cable TV come asstandard. Q80 rooms (76 singles 179 - 279zł, 76 doubles179 - 279zł, 4 apartments 240 - 339zł). Breakfast 32zł.PTHARULGKW hhwww.inyourpocket.comDerby ul. Lutycka 34 (Wola), tel./fax 061 848 30 97,hotelderby@poczta.onet.eu, www.hipodromwola.com.pl. Owned by the Polish Equestrian Federation though it’s unlikelyyou’ll meet any Arab racehorse owners in this glum excusefor a hotel. Rooms are clean, but the furniture belongsin history. Even the plastic flowers are wilting. Surprisingly,the restaurant serves good Lithuanian meals. Q43 rooms(41 singles 100 - 180zł, 41 doubles 120 - 250zł, 1 suite 240- 290zł, 1 apartment 270 - 330zł). AKW hhDorrian ul. Wyspiańskiego 29 (Grunwald), tel. 061867 45 22, fax 061 867 45 59, rezerwacja@dorrian.pl, www.dorrian.pl. Dorrian catches the eye (literally) withpleasantly modern rooms, impeccable service and someshocking colours. They’ve got a captive audience what withthe Trade Fair next door, so it comes as no shock to find theprices a little inflated.Q18 rooms (18 singles 210 - 590zł,17 doubles 230 - 700zł). PHAUGKW hhhFeniks ul. Czeremchowa 26 (Wilda), tel./fax 061832 60 75, pensjonat@feniks.poznan.pl, www.feniks.poznan.pl. Essentially decent apartments decorated withlurid yellow colour schemes that bring to mind a field of sickdaffodils. Housed inside a modern, suburban townhouse,Feniks appears geared towards the traveller with agrophobia;all rooms have kitchens, private bathrooms and loungesfurnished in a generic showroom style, meaning there’s noreason to stray further than the front porch.Q18 rooms (16singles 150 - 360zł, 8 doubles 210 - 540zł, 2 apartments320 - 700zł). HALGW hhPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

28 WHERE TO STAYWHERE TO STAY29Gromada ul. Babimojska 7 (Grunwald), tel. 061 866 9207, fax 061 867 31 61, hotelpoznan@gromada.pl, www.gromada.pl. A large, ugly block conceals dull, unimaginativeaccommodation. But while Gromada won’t win points forbeauty it’s clean, cheap and only a kilometre from the citycentre, and that’s good enough for some.Q73 rooms (70singles 75 - 330zł, 66 doubles 90 - 390zł, 3 apartments 232- 590zł). PTHARULGKDW hhhHenlex ul. Spławie 43 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 879 8771, fax 061 870 59 03, henlex@hotel-henlex.com.pl,www.hotel-henlex.com.pl. From the outside this stark, sandcolouredblock appears quite forbidding, and the neon hotel signadds to an eerie look that David Lynch would love. Step throughthe glass doors and Henlex takes on another guise: that of asuperb mid-range hotel. Completed only recently rooms arefurnished with soft colours and modern finishes - with cornerbathtubs in the suites. Finnish sauna also onsite.Q22 rooms(20 singles 140 - 200zł, 19 doubles 170 - 370zł, 2 apartments295 - 560zł). PAGKDW hhhHotel 222 E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. 061 869 9140, fax 061 868 53 52, hotel222@hotel222.com.pl,www.hotel222.com.pl. Excellent hotel with an absurdposition atop of a shopping mall. Bright, modern rooms anda crimson restaurant in which to enjoy breakfast. Trams N°6& 13 stop right on the doorstep. Note that not all roomshave air conditioning.Q51 rooms (51 singles 150 - 399zł,51 doubles 170 - 499zł). PHAGKW hhNEWHotel Księcia Józefa ul. Ostrowska 391/393 (NoweMiasto), tel. 0 61 872 63 19, fax 0 61 879 86 55, hotel@hotelkj.pl, www.hotelkj.pl. A lovely little deal that almostfools guests into thinking they’ve stepped into a fairytaleforest. Everything from the twisty wrought iron banistersto weird mottled wallpaper alludes to the outdoors, andnever more so than inside the Narnia style restaurant. Whilethey’ve been designed to look olde world the rooms arepositively 21st century, and complete with flatscreen TVsand those trendy standalone sinks.Q14 rooms (1 single140 - 195BGN, 13 doubles 140 - 195BGN). Breakfast 25zł.ARGKW hhhHotel System Premium ul. Lechicka 101 (NoweMiasto), tel. 061 821 07 00, fax 061 821 07 70,premium.poz@hotelsystem.pl, www.hotelsystem.pl.A high standard, hi-tech affair featuring pleasant creamcolour schemes and that great rarity in Poznań - a top-notchhotel swimming pool. And there’s no problem if you left thatlaptop in the strip club; each room comes equipped with itsown PC. Q107 rooms (53 singles 229 - 424zł, 47 doubles229 - 459zł, 7 apartments 329 - 609zł). Breakfast 35zł.PTHARUFGKDCW hhhIbis H-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. 061 858 4400, fax 061 858 44 44, h3110@accor.com, www.orbisonline.pl.If anything goes wrong, the staff get 15 minutesto fix it - otherwise you stay for free. It’s almost tempting tosabotage the plumbing, but why would you want to. Ibis offerssmashing value in clean, generic rooms. Q146 rooms (146singles 169 - 399zł, 146 doubles 169 - 399zł). Breakfast29zł. PTJHAUGKW hhIkar G-2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. 061 658 71 05, fax061 851 58 67, ikar@hotele21.pl, www.hotelikar.com.pl. Located on the edge of Old Town and about a ten-minutedrive from the train station, Ikar is modest but pleasant,with a lot of polished stone and wood, rattan furnitureand Art Nouveau-style light fixtures. One of the nine floorswas recently renovated, and all rooms have satellite TV, aphone, a fridge and a bathroom with a shower. Note that notall rooms have air-conditioning. Q144 rooms (57 singles180 - 350zł, 80 doubles 260 - 510zł, 7 suites 310 - 590zł).PTJHARULGK hhhLech A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. 061 853 01 51,fax 061 853 08 80, recepcja@hotel-lech.poznan.pl,www.hotel-lech.poznan.pl. Lech presents large, spotlessrooms complete with satellite TV, dataports andbathrooms. Planted in the middle of Poznań, so no needfor taxis. Q79 rooms (34 singles 142 - 310zł, 40 doubles234 - 430zł, 4 triples 346 - 530zł, 1 apartment 264 - 580zł).JARKW hhMłyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37(Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, fax 061 870 9425, gospoda@mlynskiekolo.pl, www.mlynskiekolo.pl.Outstanding accommodation inside an atmospheric timberlodge. Rooms, named after the seasons, feature hand-carvedfurniture, fresh flowers and paintings of peasant life. The ‘May’apartment comes with a circular Roman bath, perfect forsavouring the good life. Downstairs the restaurant serves bigportions of hunter-ish dishes like duck, boar and ribs. Q14rooms (12 singles 203 - 290zł, 12 doubles 252 - 360zł, 2apartments 500 - 580zł). TAGKWMeridian E-1, ul. Litewska 22 (Park Sołacki), tel. 061656 53 53, fax 061 656 55 26, hotel@hotelmeridian.com.pl, www.hotelmeridian.com.pl. A charismatic hotelwith the appeal of a private villa. The picturesque location onthe fringes of a forest is complimented by warm earth tones inthe rooms and all expected 21st century trimmings: cable TV,air conditioning, etc. Q10 rooms (10 singles 130 - 320zł, 10doubles 170 - 360zł). P HALKW hhhOlimpia ul. Taborowa 8 (Grunwald), tel. 061 864 4200, fax 061 864 42 06, rezerwacja@hotel-olimpia.com.pl, www.reges.pl/olimpia.htm. This ugly concreteblock serves as a marvellous blast-to-the-past, with mustyfurnishings straight from the Cold War era. Basic, datedand gloomy, though the relative proximity to the Trade Fairkeeps it ticking over with a stream of bewildered lookingbusiness travellers. Q44 rooms (16 singles 185 - 240zł,25 doubles 250 - 340zł, 6 triples 300 - 390zł, 3 suites330 - 430zł). HALKPolonez G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36, tel. 061 86471 00, fax 061 852 37 62, rez.polonez@orbis.pl,www.orbisonline.pl. Brownish rooms in an enormousblock on the northern edges of the centre. While theunimaginative accommodation does little to feed thecreative spirit, all rooms have telephone, satelliteTV and dataports. There’s a surprisingly good giftshop on the ground floor. Q369 rooms (167 singles120 - 480zł, 191 doubles 120 - 480zł, 11 apartments190 - 480zł). Breakfast 35zł. OT HARULGKDW hhhRezydencja Solei D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 855 7351, fax 061 855 73 50, recepcja@hotel-solei.pl, www.hotel-solei.pl. Squirreled away just beyond Old Town SquareSolei present compact rooms decorated with floral patterns,IKEA water colours and wood furniture. It’s on a quiet street,but close to all the action, though prices sky-rocket duringtrade fairs. A sister hotel, Rezydencja Solei (ul. Wałecka 2,tel. 061 847 58 38) offers much the same though is usuallyfully booked with groups using the conference facilities.Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q11 rooms(9 singles 179 - 369zł, 2 doubles 249 - 489zł, 2 apartments330 - 589zł). PARGWOur hotel is located in a peaceful forestA residence in the very heart of the cityHotel Rezydencja Solei ****ul. Wałecka 260-461 Poznań - Strzeszynektel. 061 847 58 38faks 061 847 51 14e-mail: hotel@hotel-solei.plwww.hotel-solei.plRezydencja Soleiul. Szewska 261-760 Poznańtel. 061 855 73 51faks 061 855 73 50e-mail: recepcja@hotel-solei.plwww.hotel-solei.plWe will surprise you with a pleasant, family atmosphere, professional staff and comfortable interiors.It will be a great honour to have you as our guest and we guarantee your stay will be a real pleasure.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

30 WHERE TO STAYWHERE TO STAY31What’s hot, what’s notAs expected, we’ve returned from our four monthhiatus with an avalanche of newbies to sort and sift.It’d be remiss to start with anything but the best,simply because in this case the best doesn’t justmean ‘the best in Poznan’, it means the best, period.The Blow Up Hall 50 50 might have a name you wantto punch, but give it a chance first. This is the mostimpressive design hotel in Poland, and proof thatPoznan is flexing up to give Krakow and Warsaw arun for their money. If you cough at their rack rates,and most people do, then do at least make a momentfor their bar, an industrial chic cocktail spot wherethe artist meets the factory. Sticking to cocktail barsand FBI have gone for a generic sleek and shiny lookyou saw emerge about a decade ago, and if theirpredecessors are anything to go by this addresswill be out of business by the end of the year. UnlikeFever, whose Rynek location and 70s style is alreadyproving a hit. Onto food and we’re delighted to toot thetrumpets and announce the arrival of another Indianrestaurant. This one is called Reeta’s and it’s everybit as good anything you’d find in Britain. Sushi toocontinues to gain popularity, with Kyokai being thelatest sushi stop, while for something internationalgive Madagaskar a whirl. Finally, an RIP goes out tothe Sports Bar in Dom Vikingow, whose untimelydemise means it’s off to the Sheraton’s SomeplaceElse if you require Sky Sports.Rzymski C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. 061 85281 21, fax 061 852 89 83, hotel@rzymski.pl, www.hotelrzymski.pl. Right in the city centre, so do ask for aroom facing away from the street if you don’t wish to bewoken by a dawn chorus of trams and refuse trucks. Roomsare pleasantly decorated in brownish colours, and while spotlessthe bathrooms come with a well-used musk - avoid suchsituations by asking for one of the renovated rooms.Q87rooms (81 singles 200 - 330zł, 53 doubles 250 - 470zł, 1triple 375 - 660zł, 4 suites 130 - 570zł). TJHARULGKW hhhT&T ul. Metalowa 4 (Górczyn), tel. 061 864 12 81, fax061 864 12 82, hotel@hoteltt.com.pl, www.hoteltt.com.pl. Situated at the end of a dead-end street, and witha tram stop and taxi rank just around the corner, T&T hasspacious rooms that keep the business traveller in mind.Intriguingly, not even the staff know what T&T stands for.Q17 rooms (15 singles 185 - 330zł, 15 doubles 225 -380zł, 2 apartments 295 - 490zł). PHARUGKDhhhZagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061842 77 90, fax 061 842 77 91, info@zagrodabamberska.pl, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Wooden beams, patternedrugs and sturdy wooden furniture create a rural ambience inthis recently renovated farm-style annex. For summer thegarden boasts a huge open-air barbecue, and a collection ofwood carved animals to trip over. Q10 rooms (7 singles 270- 495zł, 7 doubles 300 - 550zł, 3 apartments 360 - 680zł).THALGKW hhhBudgetGold E-4, ul. Bukowska 127a, tel. 061 842 07 74, fax061 842 07 73, goldhotel@goldhotel.pl, www.goldhotel.pl.A small suburban hotel with boxy modern roomscomplete with sliding bathroom doors and a vase of sweetson the reception desk. A very decent, budget option. Closeto the airport, so expect to be travelling to and from town bychariot. Q11 rooms (11 singles 150 - 170zł, 11 doubles190 - 210zł). AW hhMini Hotelik A-3, Al. Niepodległości 8a (entrancefrom ul. Taylora), tel. 061 633 14 16, fax 061 63318 60, bartlomiej.baginski@wp.pl, www.trans-tor.poznan.pl. Not much chance of finding English spokenhere, though sign language is always enough to get aplace at one of the best budget deals in town. Spotlessrooms occupy the top floor of a residential building, andthough some share bathroom facilities the small scaleof this operation guarantees queues for your morningshower are unlikely. Rooms come with TV and furniturethat is kept religiously scrubbed. If you’re returning lateyou’ll need to buzzed in by a member of staff. Q11rooms (2 singles 64 - 118zł, 5 doubles 128 - 160zł, 3triples 193 - 225zł, 1 apartment 160 - 224zł). No breakfastserved. GNaramowice ul. Naramowicka 150 (Stare Miasto-Naramowice), tel. 061 822 75 43, fax 061 82027 81, hotel@naramowice.pl, www.naramowice.pl. An ugly concrete building that wouldn’t be out ofplace on a council estate hides a perfectly acceptableinterior. The rooms are plain but smart, and althoughthey won’t fuel the creative poet inside of you, they offermoderate comfort and fair value. Way in the northof the city. Q54 rooms (48 singles 160 - 320zł, 48doubles 180 - 350zł, 6 suites 210 - 400zł). Breakfast20zł. HALKW hhPomorski E-3, ul. Sierakowska 36, tel. 061 867 28 31,fax 061 867 53 62, pomorskihotel@neostrada.pl, www.hotel-pomorski.dmf.pl. Pictures of Italy greet the guest fromthe newly renovated walls of Pomorski’s corridors. After beingcompletely overhauled, the hotel now has a better receptionarea, very comfy family rooms (3-bedded) but rather blanddouble rooms. It’s a short walk to the tramstop on Grunwaldzka.Q68 rooms (25 singles 120 - 155zł, 38 doubles170 - 220zł, 4 suites 255 - 300zł, 1 apartment 400 - 450zł).HARUFGK hhSport F-5, ul. Chwiałkowskiego 34, tel. 061 833 0591, fax 061 833 24 44, sporthotel@posir.poznan.pl, www.sporthotel.poznan.pl. Although it’s locatedin the Nautilus Sports Centre you’re going to get enoughexercise humping your bags up three flights of stairs.Rooms are clean, recently painted and fully renovated,but come with the sort of identikit furniture and carpetsyou’d find in an office. Beggars can’t be choosers, andSport isn’t bad value. Pay extra to use the sports complex.Q23 rooms (3 singles 170 - 240zł, 13 doubles 220 -300zł, 5 triples 270 - 400zł, 2 apartments 350 - 525zł).HAGDCW hhHostelsBy The Way Hostel C-3, ul. Półwiejska 19/10, tel.0 698 38 04 73, hostel@bythewayhostel.pl, www.bythewayhostel.pl. Wrocław was discovered a few seasonsback by the backpackers - now it looks like it’s Poznań’s turn.The opening of By The Way is another step on the path ofbackpacking glory, and this place offers a pleasingly artisticcharacter, up-to-date fittings, and rooms kitted out withreading lamps and lockers. The location is spot on, and theno-curfew policy allows travellers full opportunity to test outwww.inyourpocket.comdance moves learned in Morocco.Q7 rooms (3 doubles130zł, 1 Six-person room 330zł, 1 Eight-person room 400zł,2 Ten-person room 450zł). 16 dorm beds 45-65zł per person.TAGWCinnamon A-2, ul. Gwarna 10/2, tel. 061 851 57 57,poznan@cinnamonhostel.com, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Enter via a shabby-looking barred gateway to find arather spiffy choice of budget lodgings. The common roomis right out of studentsville, what with all the IKEA bits andpieces and band posters, while the rooms are neat and simpleand themed on colours. The curtains aren’t particularly effectivein their job, but everything from beds to kitchens tobathrooms is fresh, clean and pleasant. Q9 rooms (4 singles100zł, 4 doubles 135zł, 2 quads 240zł, 2 Eight-person room400zł, 1 Nine-person room 405zł). 43 dorm beds 45-60złper person. ARWFrolic Goats Hostel C-2, ul. Wrocławska 16/6 (entrancefrom ul. Jaskółcza), tel. 061 852 44 11, bookings@frolicgoatshostel.com,www.frolicgoatshostel.com. Accommodation ranges from private rooms to 12 mandorms with beds being of the sturdy pine type. Everythingsmells and feels brand new here, which is exactly what it is,and details include a kitchen with a preserved stone chimneyas well as bicycle hire and the promise of round-the-clock hotwater. If mingling with backpackers washing their socks isbeneath you then ask about their private apartments on ul.Krysiewicza 6. Q8 rooms (3 doubles 170 - 200zł, 2 quads240 - 260zł). 36 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. AGWPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

32 WHERE TO STAYPoznań on the cheapAre you the sort of person who hopes to supplement theFriday funds with a desperate search under the sofa?There’s certainly no shame in admitting so, the globalfinancial crisis has left everyman and his dog wearingsackcloth and eating porridge. Fortunately you’re in Poznan,and out here a bit of belt tightening doesn’t necessarilymean having to sacrifice your finer vices. This is after all acity of students, and as such you’ll find a town well gearedto dealing with lazy scroungers. Finding food for buttonsshouldn’t present a problem, and getting a proper feedis even possible in the old town square – try for instanceSpagheteria, or why not keep your cabbage quotient upwith a visit to Sphinx. Better still, turn the corner and enterChlopskie Jadlo; it’s not quite gourmet but the Polishrecipes here are ideal on a cold day, and more importantlyserved in portions that could feed an elephant. If the tastebudsare hankering for something a little more exotic thanmeat and veg then why not check out Reeta’s, a superIndian venue with curries that leave you feeling nuked. Arollicking night out is even easier to find, just follow anyonecarrying a pile of books. The chances are they’ll be walkingto ul. Taczaka, a student ghetto with close on a dozencheap pubs to vie for your custom. Kieslice aside, most arerubbish, but you’ll find a large percentage of the clienteleboth drunk and female – we like that combination, andso should you. If the thought of straying out the old townmakes you giddy then go no further than Deja Vu, a vastpub that fills throughout the week with pissed brainboxes.There’s frequent deals on cut-price lager, but you won’t findany cheaper than in IQ where booze sinks to a remarkable2zl a pint at some points of the week.As far as accommodation goes budget travellers arepositively spoiled compared to a couple of years ago.Back in those times a cheap bed usually came with fleas,curfew and some challenging smells. Now there’s threehostels to pick from, and they’re all as clean as a pickedrib. If mixing with backpackers sounds like hell then goa rung above, and check into the Mini-Hotelik. You won’tfind much in the way of English spoken, nor any happyfaces as you get buzzed through at five in the morning, butthat’s a price worth paying to avoid college frat boys ordreadlocked monsters. When it comes to spending yourtime, then you can do so usefully by picking up a PoznanCity Card from tourist information. Not only will this buythe privilege to travel on public transport, it also wins youcut price – or in some cases free – admission to a healthylist of museums. More cunning savings are available byexploration of our What to See section – check out themuseum listings, most will open for free at least once aweek, usually Saturday.Poznań In Your PocketOut of townBatory ul. Leszczyńska 7-13 (Grunwald), tel. 061 83244 81, fax 061 832 42 30, info@batory.poznan.pl, www.batory.poznan.pl. A modern exterior, and an interior looselyinspired by a scrapped Atlantic liner called the Batory - bitsand pieces from the ship decorate the lobby and bar. Roomsare comfortable and reasonably plush. With a lively interpretationof the words ‘located near the centre,’ getting to Batoryinvolves either a taxi or taking a tram to the end of the linebefore hopping onto a bus for two stops. Q20 rooms (19singles 264 - 500zł, 17 doubles 320 - 520zł, 1 apartment650 - 800zł). PTHAGKW hhhDelicja ul. Mostowa 22, Oborniki Wielkopolskie, tel. 061296 22 11, fax 061 296 15 26, delicja@delicja.eu, www.delicja.emeteor.pl. A 20km drive from Poznań city centre,Delicja features rooms decorated with prissy flowery patternsand standard hotel fittings such as satellite TV and air-con.Downstairs on-site facilities include fitness centre, saunaand conference room. Q27 rooms (27 singles 160 - 116zł,9 doubles 220zł). PHAUFGDW hhhDwór w Podstolicach (Podstolice Manor House)ul. Kasztanowa 50, Podstolice, tel. 061 438 68 08, fax061 438 68 92, dwor@podstolice.pl, www.podstolice.pl. Indulge yourself at this restored 19th century manorhouse. Set in an old park the final effect is over-the-top, andthe glut of antiques and peacocks pose an obstacle coursein themselves. Activities include shooting, driving range andbanisters for kids to slide down. Period furnishings, oil paintingsand other lavish antique trappings decorate the interior.Q15 rooms (14 singles 200 - 595zł, 13 doubles 270 - 660zł,1 apartment 370 - 760zł). HARLGKGreen Hotel ul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. 061 81080 75, fax 061 810 81 23, rezerwacja@greenhotel.pl,www.greenhotel.pl. If you’re looking for accommodationaway from the bright lights then Green Hotel presents asolid choice. Located in a wooded area 11km from the citycentre, this hotel has a sleek American style, and a list offacilities as long as your arm. Modern interiors and pleasantcolours. Q44 rooms (40 singles 240 - 649zł, 36 doubles290 - 699zł, 4 apartments 799 - 1099zł). PTHAULGKDCW hhhhOssowski ul. Dąbrówki 1, Kobylnica, tel. 061 815 8100, fax 061 815 81 88, recepcja@hotel-ossowski.com.pl, www.hotel-ossowski.com.pl. A smart hotel offeringthree star standards and accommodation that comes withsatellite TVs perched high in the corners, and smallish bathroomsthat positively sparkle. A fitness center with Jacuzziand sauna looks set to be added in the not-too-distant future.Q79 rooms (74 singles 180 - 375zł, 65 doubles 250 - 430zł,2 triples 330 - 450zł, 2 suites 300 - 550zł, 1 apartment 550- 900zł). HARUGKW hhhPałac Wąsowo ul. Parkowa 1, Kuślin, tel. 061 44726 13, fax 061 447 26 19, wasowo@wasowo.pl, www.wasowo.pl. Pick between staying in a baroque mansion, aneo-gothic palace or a rustic-themed gardener’s cottage. TheWąsowo complex is well off the radar - 40km from Poznań -but you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Poland whichcan boast the same level of history and heritage. Each roomis furnished in individual style, offering a good balance ofantiques and modern gadgets. Indoor swimming pool, winecellar, billiard room and horse-drawn carts are just a few ofthe distractions at your disposal. Q60 rooms (51 singles160 - 300zł, 51 doubles 220 - 390zł, 9 apartments 450 -700zł). THAUKDCW hhhhpoznan.inyourpocket.com

34 RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS35Quick EatsAli Baba B-1, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel. 061 853 32 71,www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A decent sit-down venture with theobligatory hunk of meat spinning on a skewer, and crowd ofpost-club fatalities getting chili sauce down their trousers. Picsof the middle east brighten the pastel coloured interior and thelate night snacks rate highly with anyone whose broken theeight pint limit. Q Open 24hrs. (17-30zł). PSCanappka B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 37, tel. 061 852 3514, www.canappka.pl. Cheap and cheery sandwich stopthat could be the answer if you’re doing lunch on the run.Think of it as a poor man’s Subway. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00,Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (9-13zł). PAEGSKFC E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1 (Poznan Railway Station),tel. 061 633 37 77, www.kfc.pl. If you need food butyou’re at the train station then you’ve got two choices - foodpoisoning or KFC. We’ve tried both, and recommend thelatter. A TV screen inside informs patrons of departuresand delays, and there’s a small hatchway facing one of theplatforms if you prefer to share dinner with the tramps andpigeons.QOpen 05:00 - 04:00. (11-30zł). PTASMcDonald’s B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, tel. 061856 00 60, www.mcdonalds.pl. He might look like aweird sex pest, but you’ve got to hand Ronald McDonaldhis dues; the man knows how to make a good cheeseburger.Sometimes, that’s all that counts. Also on ul.Głogowska 14 (E-4).QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat07:00 - 02:00. PTAUGSWRoti C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. 061 851 68 87. Poznan’sbest kebab comes tightly packed in a tortilla and served upby an enthusiastic boy clearly under the impression thatworking in an all night kebab shop is every bit as good asbeing an astronaut. Q Open 24hrs. (6-18zł). PGSSioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38,www.sioux.com.pl. They’re open pretty much round theclock, though in truth no-one comes here until they’ve justput in a nightshift on a local dance floor. It’s during witchinghours you’ll find a line of post-pub party people swaying inunison outside, as they wait for t-shirted cooks to weavetheir magic on burgers, sandwiches and kebabs. All threelook and taste the same, and come bulked out with gherkins,onions, cabbage and sauce.Q 24hrs. (7-11zł). SSpagetheria C-2, Stary Rynek 76, tel. 061 85232 85, www.avanti.poznan.pl. A no-frills sustenancesolution that possibly rates as the best bargain you’llfind on the Rynek. The interiors are completely basic,but the food does the talking here, with a variety of verydecent spaghetti combos to choose from. QOpen09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.(4-14zł). PT JUGSSphinx A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. 061 852 0702, www.sphinx.poznan.pl. The Sphinx chain havecornered the quick and simple, budget dinner market,with fans ranging from an early twenties set to dreamycouples making their collective funds stretch. The menudoes not challenge the imagination and is a vast list ofburgers, kebabs and pizzas. Note that only the outlet onŚw. Marcin has extended opening hours from Wednesdaythrough to Saturday.QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Mon, Tue,Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (19-65zł). PTAXSWPoznań might have a reputation as an international centreof commerce but its restaurant scene is still very muchin its infancy. You will find a scattering of world-classrestaurants, but you’re ethnic options are limited in bothnumber and quality. The opening hours we list are flexible,and most will stay open past their closing times if customersare still lingering. The prices we list in brackets denotethe cost of the cheapest and dearest dish on the menu. Aswith most of the city’s bars and clubs, restaurants tend toremain open past their official closing times if customersare lingering.AmericanRodeo Drive C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.061 853 72 48, www.rodeodrive.pl. Aspiring redneckscould do a lot worse than showing up to Rodeo Drive, a spaceyvenue which combines bare bricks, steel pipes and skylightswith saloon-style touches like cacti, cattle horns and hussiesin cowgal hats. The menu includes wings and ribs, but mostpeople are here for the steaks - the best in town. There’s afew to choose from, with the filet mignon winning our voteevery time; pair it up with bacon branded beans and someloaded jacket potatoes.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun11:00 - 23:00. (20-70zł). PTAUXSWRooster C-2, Stary Rynek 49, tel. 061 853 40 65, www.rooster.pl. Rooster is where burgers meet Baywatch; a sort ofTGI Tits if you please. The food is fine, nothing more challengingthan ribs and wings served up in interiors sprinkled with mid-West number plates and telegraph poles. People come here forthe waitresses - tanorexic bombshells with plenty of bits andboobs sticking out of lycra uniform. QOpen 11.00 - 24.00,Fri, Sat 11.00 - 01.00. (16-40zł). TAUXSSioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38,www.sioux.com.pl. A Wild West eatery with a Clint Eastwooddesign and a permanent crowd of cheerful diners.God knows what they’ve got to be happy about, the foodhere is desperate stuff, and includes pizzas that taste ofcardboard and ‘ranch food’ buried in beetroot. The signoutside reckons this to be a steak house, though with justone bovine on the menu that’s a playground exaggeration.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (19-140zł).PTAIEBXSWSioux Classic D-2, Stary Rynek 93, tel. 061 851 6286, www.sioux.com.pl. Spaghetti Western décor and staffdressed as cowboys and injuns lend a bit of a theme parkatmosphere to this place, and the food is just what you’dexpect coming from chefs better suited to operating a scareyride. The wagon and wig wam style looks great, but settledown for something other than beer and you’ll find yourself along way from Texas. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -01:00. (18-99zł). PTJAXSSymbol keyP Air conditioningE Live musicT Child friendlyG Smoking banI FireplaceR InternetV Home deliveryA Credit cards acceptedS Take awayU Facilities for the disabledL Guarded parking6 Animal friendlyW Wi-FiX Smoking sectionSomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (SheratonPoznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. It’s amazing what a good burger can do toraise the spirits, and they don’t get any better than theone in Someplace Else. This Sheraton based bar/eaterygets the food right every time, and remains your only hopefor authentic Tex Mex dining in Poznan. The diner designis right out of road trip America, and is a great backdropfor ties-off, after office chow.QOpen 17:00 - 24:00,Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (24-93zł).PTAUEXSWChineseAzalia B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 853 24 42,www.azalia.poznan.pl. Size counts in Azalia, a venue withan infinite menu and a floor plan that could fit a factory. Thechow won’t wow, with the dishes usually eclipsed by an interiorsoaked and drowned in dragons and lanterns. QOpen12:00 - 22:30. (15-40zł). PTAXSBambus D-2, Stary Rynek 64/65, tel. 061 853 06 58.Jack-of-all-trades, master of none. The Chinese food here isUncle Ben standard, while the Italian… well, they had run outby the time we placed our order. What kind of restaurant runsout of food you may ask? The kind which has fruit machinesin the corners, and leather jacketed apes grunting threatsdown phones. Further investigations concluded after a quickglance at the scatological surprise in the toilet.QOpen 12:00- 23:00. (23-48zł). T JAUGSPekin B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 33, tel. 061 852 63 70, www.pekin.pl. Relive the age of Bruce Lee in this vivid riot ofdragons, pagodas and hanging lanterns. With Bambuson skid row Pekin have stepped in and nicked the titleof Best Chinese. A prodigious menu covers pretty muchanything ever served in a Chinese restaurant, and the duckdishes are always a hit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (20-49zł).PTAUXSZielony Smok (The Green Dragon) B-1, ul. 23 Lutego7, tel. 061 851 35 95. Apparently they serve Vietnameseand Chinese food but we were stuck to find anything resemblingeither. Walk past, swiftly.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun12:00 - 18:00. (14-33zł). PAGSFine diningBażanciarnia C-2, Stary Rynek 94, tel. 061 855 33 59,www.bazanciarnia.pl. The work of celebrity restaurateurMagda Gessler Bazanciarnia is the first, last and only choiceif you’re looking for a meal befitting a Tsar. The interior is abit country toff meets Laura Ashley, with lots of fruit, flowersand chandeliers to clatter into, while the menu is everythingyou’d find on a forest floor after a blindfolded squire has firedoff a few rounds; venison, lamb, boar, as well as the housespecialty, pheasant marinated in orange juice.QOpen 12:00- 23:00. (46-250zł). PTAIXSWDelicja B-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. 061 852 11 28, www.delicja.eu. Poznań fine dining doesn’t get better than this.Winner of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo ofFrench, Italian and Polish recipes including superb piecesof cookling such as roast lamb and beef sirloin. Thisdefinitely falls at the upper end of the food chain, and theinterior comes filled with silver candleholders, immaculatelinen and classical music. As soon as the sun comes out,take advantage of one of the better gardens in town.QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (48-145zł). PTAUEGSWPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

36 RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS37Dom Vikingów C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 7153, www.domvikingow.pl. The Viking’s House isn’t half asprimitive as it sounds. On the contrary, this Danish ownedspot has a crisp urban look and a client base that at timesfeels overwhelmingly cashed-up and foreign. And yes, whilethere are Danish dishes on show, there’s plenty of alternativeoptions for the non-Scandic visitor. There’s a few placesclaiming Poznan’s best steak, and the one in DV is certainlyup there on the leader board.QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (36-95zł). PTASWFigaro C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. 061 852 08 16, www.figaro.poznan.pl. Romantic repasts and serious businessdinners take place amongst the starched tablecloths andvases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spendingpower of most western visitors. Diners can choose from alarge list of pasta, beef tenderloin and veal and an expansivewine list. What Figaro is famous for though is their fish menu,reputed to be the best in the city. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00,Sun 13:00 - 17:00. (25-57zł). PTASLe Palais du Jardin C-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. 061 66585 85, www.lepalais.poznan.pl. Nouvelle cuisine in amodern, cream coloured setting. The menu is considered oneof the best in the city, and is comprised of dishes like monkfish and lamb. There’s also an impressive wine list to garglethrough, and staff far removed from the utter nincompoopsemployed in some of the nearby venues.QOpen 12:00 -23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (54-99zł). PTAXSWNalewka C-2, Stary Rynek 2 (Waga Miejska), tel. 061853 21 24, www.nalewka.pl. First, an explanation of thename; Nalewki are traditional fruit and herbal vodkas, madeaccording to arcane recipes handed through the mists oftime. You’ll find several in here, from green walnut to pepperwith honey, and they go perfectly with the top standard food.The menu, printed on newspaper sheets, involves Europeanand Polish dishes, and includes a very pleasing chicken incranberry. Save circling the square numerous times, this placeisn’t on the periphery, rather smack bang next to the townhall.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (45-70zł). TJASPanorama K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77 (HP Park Hotel), tel.061 874 11 56, www.hotelepark.pl. Views of Lake Maltaare the main selling point here, and come sunset it really doesget quite romantic. An inoffensive, play-it-safe interior reflectsthe hotel location, but the chefs do well in creating good valuedinners that really do merit the taxi trek out here. QOpen12:00 - 23:00. (45-61zł). PT AUXSWZagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061842 77 90, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Yes it’s in a hotel,but this is no three star, pastel colour, logo clad, looks-likea-private-hospitalsort of place. Okay, the hotel is three star,but Zagroda Bamberska has enough class and character tobe awarded a bracket of its own. So too the restaurant, acacophonous cross-timbered hall in which diners get to trydishes cooked to original Bamberg recipes. QOpen 16:00 -23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (39-72zł). TAUESWFusionFusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (SheratonPoznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiecerestaurant. Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it’smeant to be with inventive dishes like chicken marinated incoconut milk appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor toceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of theproletariat scurrying to work. Above average prices, but withthe quality to warrant the indulgence. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,12:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 18:00. (34-78zł).PTAUIEXSWPracownia D-2, ul. Woźna 17, tel. 0 508 13 16 64. Asmooth looker of a venue with lots of dark woods, cleverlighting and interesting contraptions dangling from the ceiling.The menu is fusion inspired, with bountiful choices for ourvegetarian associates, and this long, narrow newbie looks setto become our personal winter winner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (16-35zł). TAXSWGreekNEWArtemis C-1, ul. Wroniecka 21, tel. 0618 48 43 16.Peering through the window and prospective diners will beleft staring at rows of empty seats. Persevere. Insist on sittingdownstairs, in the vaulted brick cellar, before perusinga classic menu touting all the lamb and grilled goodies youcan handle. It’s not life changing, but we like it. You probablywill too.Pireus E-4, ul. Głogowska 35, tel. 061 866 51 27, www.pireus.poznan.pl. A typical caricature of the Greek restaurantabroad. Plaster statues and Doric pillars fill the compactvenue, and the small but straight-forward menu holds all theusual suspects: gyros, kalamari and souvlaki. Industriousservice and a casual atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.(24-60zł). TAXSTawerna Mykonos B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061853 34 36, www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Relive yourMediterranean summer at this Greek owned joint. Blue andwhite interiors come adorned with pics of Greek beachscenes and scale models of fishing vessels while the menuis a romp through classics like souvlaki and lamb served withmint sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.(19-48zł). PTAESWFrenchPatio D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 855 10 27, www.patio-poznan.pl. A pretty old town spot that brings Provenceto your doorstep. The name alludes to the interior, which is allpatio furnishings, droopy plants and even a mock fountain setin the corner. The crepes are overpriced and lack any ooh lala, but the rest of the menu seems to elicit positive enoughreaction - the salmon steak is lovely. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.(15-49zł). PAEXSWIndianBuddha Bar C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10 (enter from ul.Sieroca), tel. 061 852 33 99, www.buddhabar-poznan.pl. At last, Poznan gets the Indian restaurant it deserves.Accessed by a red carpet this place looks like it cost afortune, with every inch covered with wood-carved panels,gold braided drapes and intricate ironwork. Presiding overit all, a rather smarmy looking giant Buddha. He’s got goodreason to be smiling, the butter chicken here is outstanding,and the madras every bit as hot as a petrol bomb. The onlyproblem here is the size; this place is vast, making dininghere a ghostly experience.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (35-50zł).PTAUSwww.inyourpocket.comPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

38 RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS39NEWReeta’s Haveli G-4, ul. Ratajczaka 23, tel. 061 853 4777. These are great times we live in; after years spent waitingfor a decent Indian Poznan now boasts two. So, how does thisnewbie weigh up against Buddha? Very well is your answer.The chicken tikka masala warrants a fan club of its own, andit’s not unlikely you’ll be ordering extra naan to mop up everylast lick of sauce. But what this place really gets right is theatmosphere; Buddha feels haunted at times, so acute is thelack of custom, Reeta’s on other hand positively crackles withconversation. It looks the part as well, with figures of Ganeshand colonial era sofas set to a voluptuous scarlet background.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-27zł). PTAEXSTaj India J-4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. 061 876 62 49,www.taj-india.pl. How can one place be this bad? Thecurry here looks and tastes like something that fell out ofyour bottom, and you can bet your last zlotlet on your gutsgargling within minutes. Could things get any worse? Coursethey can. Your suffering will be extended by at least twentyminutes thanks to the customary wait for a taxi - thank godfor the bushes outside. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14-42zł).TAUGSWHabana is not only a restaurant but also a placewhere you can have a business lunch, eat supper withfriends or even have a romantic evening.We welcome guests to spend their free timein our art deco interiors.Monday to Friday we serve a three course lunchfor 29 zł.Our place is perfect for guests looking to have afew drinks with friends or a chat at the bar. Fridaysand Saturdays feature live music or DJ sets from ourfriends at City Inside art project.We organize banquets for 250 standing or 120 sittingplaces. We guarantee excellent flavours, a greatatmosphere and discrete staff.Come to a place full of positive energy.We invite you to musical weekends under the slogan‘Music is my life’ in Habana Club & Restaurant,every Friday and Satursday starting at 9:00 pm.Let the music kidnap you.HABANA RESTAURANTUl Paderewskiego 10, 61-770 Poznańtel. 61 8530 222www.habanarestaurant.plreservation: a.gorny@habanarestaurant.plInternationalAlexander B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. 061 852 28 12,www.alexander.poznan.pl. A long standing favourite withour staff Alexander straddles that no-man’s land betweenStary Browar and the old town. Located on a steep hill thisMediterranean themed spot sits its diners amid twisting vinesand cherubic figures, lending something of a ‘Cupid GoesCooking’ tone to your meal. The lamb is faultless, and theatmosphere high class and formal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (32-96zł). PTAUXSWAli Baba C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 11, tel. 061 853 29 83,www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A cave-like interior with multicolouredlamps hanging from the ceilings and a menu that isnot too dissimilar - but far more enjoyable - to Sphinx; lustyhelpings of meat, pizzas and sandwiches with grilled fillings. Aset of hookah pipes planted by the wall complete the ArabianNights theme.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). PTAXSBee Jay’s C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15, www.beejays.pl. Permanently docked in the shadow of the old townhall Beejay’s features a nutty design (quarrying explosives, amodel galleon) as well as a stained glass window depicting aMexican, Indian and Scotsman. If that sounds like the start ofa bad joke it most certainly isn’t - it’s the start of a bad meal.The menu is the definition of diverse, though the results aren’tso much varied as plain poor. The chef here is a gentleman ofshortcuts; the curry comes from a tin and the Mexican salsa isactually ketchup - at these prices, that’s inexcusable.QOpen11:00 - 23:30. (20-96zł). PTJAUSWBrovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel.061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. You might be here withthe lads, in which case point your nose to the left, order somebeer snacks and get stuck into their range of microbrews.Alternately, sophisticates are going to be picking the rightdoor, through which they’ll find a cream dining room wheredapper business types dine alongside gushing personal assistantsdressed like Lois Lane. The menu is a bit of a jugglingact, with influences from the Mediterranean, Germany andPoland, but the results hit double six every time. Save spacefor dessert - the choccy buns are a death by chocolate affair,and feel pleasingly sinful.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (18-58zł).PTJASWCorcovado D-1, ul. Wroniecka 16, tel. 061 663 63 34,www.corcovado.pl. While Corcovado occupies the middleground between café and restaurant, the owners say it leansslightly more toward the restaurant end of the scale. Sureenough, the menu is comprised of rather upscale Europeandishes that wouldn’t be out of place in a more formal spot.But a café atmosphere prevails: brick walls adorned withartsy black-and-whites, a mellow atmosphere, and a slightlybohemian middle-class crowd. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Sun13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (24-62zł). TJAUSCoxy’s D-2, ul. Woźna 11, tel. 061 221 97 74. Touted asa challenger to Dom Vikingow’s Sports Bar the story of Coxy’sis one of missed opportunity. There is an open kitchen, but theonly time the lights go on are when a teenage chef shuffles infrom a fag break to dunk some chips into the fryer. Indeed, whatshould be a lively stage of leaping flames and flowery cursesis instead a darkened corner of an even darker pub. Even moredisappointing are the steaks; every bit as tasty as a footballboot. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (10-43zł). TAESWDark Restaurant D-2, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70,www.darkrestaurant.pl. Here’s a place with a great gimmick - it’spitch black. The theory behind this is simple; tell the waiter howmany courses you plan on having, before being shepherded into thedarkness by the staff (they’re equipped with night vision goggles,so abandon any thoughts of doing a runner). The contents of themeal remain a mystery until the point of departure, at which pointdiners have the opportunity to have a natter with the chef.QOpen12:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (50-90zł). PTAGSDeserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 5117. On the one side a manly pub with football scarves and lotsof lads, on the right hand side a pleasant restaurant with whiteon white colours, high-backed chairs and a constant streamof sightseers taking time out from the rigors of getting lost.The menu is a standard European effort with few surprises tobe found. Expect a rundown of mainstay dishes like chickenbreast and beef fillet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (22-55zł). PTAGSHabana C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 853 02 22,www.habanarestaurant.pl. A sublime space that’s certainlya contender for Poznan’s best looking venue. Filled with swivellychairs, marble cladding and shiny surfaces this places certainlylooks the business, while the badly parked sports cars outsideare enough to tell you about the people found inside. Theinternational menu includes a variety of seafood options, andsomewhat surprisingly, the best pizza we’ve had in Poland.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-120zł). PTASWImaret D-2, ul. Wielka 9. Find post-pubbers lining upoutside the window for their traditional before bed kebab,while inside find a basic room with cut-price furnishings anda snack bar atmosphere. Popular at all hours, with the reasonbeing Imaret far exceeds your usual fast food haunts. Grilledkoftas and lamb accompanied by a spicy sauce are just twooptions, and the service is leagues ahead of the twits youusually find carving up your kebab.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.(17-20zł). GSLe Bistrot G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.061 667 12 96. A flashy, sleek cafe/bar/restaurant insideStary Browar, and ample proof there’s more to this mallthan shopping. Set inside a shining cream interior Le Bistrotoffers up a super selection of antipasti snacks and modernMediterranean dishes served to a smart crowd laid downwith bags with designer names. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun10:00 - 20:00. (21-36zł). PTAUGSPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

40 RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS41We warmly invite you to our restaurants, which guaranteeexcellent cuisine and serve a rich and varied menu.Bistro RzymiankaRestauracja de Romeal. K. Marcinkowskiego 22, 61-827 Poznantel. + 48 61 852 81 21, restauracja@rzymski.plwww.hotelrzymski.plExcellent meatsare our chefís speciality!Admirers of delicious flavoursare highly welcome.TUSCANCUISINELizard King C-2, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72,www.lizardking.pl. Ringside views of the Rynek are one ofthe attractions of Lizard King, an old timer that unlike the rocksstars it celebrates looks like it’ll never die. Packed at all hoursthis place pays reverence to Doors, Stones, Beatles and Pistols,and is pretty much a cut price version of Hard Rock. The menu isburgers, steaks and other no-shockers, and seems to go downwell with a 20s crowd yet to discover chips don’t constitute hautecuisine. Dodgy cover bands get wheeled out with shocking regularity,and do much to prove how easily pleased the natives canbe.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (17-50zł). PAESWLokanta C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061859 64 60. Found on the top floor of Stary Browar Shopping Mall,Lokanta proves one of the highlights of the food court. Although indirect competition with the next-door Sphinx, this lunch-on-the-runoption fares well by cooking a range of quality kebabs and kofta.Expect to be battling for seats with hundreds of other shoppers,so bring a big stick to shoo them away. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (18-63zł). PTAUXSWNEWMadagaskar H-3, ul. Wielka 7, tel. 061 852 35 24,www.restauracjamadagaskar.pl. Safari print seats minglewith billowing sheets inside this white, cave-like space. It lookscurious enough, treading a nervous line between kitsch andclass, and the food is nothing less than global in spirit. T-bonesteak, chicken masala and ‘Poznan duck’ give an idea of whatto expect, and for the most part the dishes are well executedand attractively presented. Definitely one to look into. QOpen12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:00. PAXSMood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www.moodclub.pl. Talk about a revamp, this place has gone fromlooking like a student common room to a formal dining spacedecorated with alarming floral patterns. The menu includessome highly reasonable lunch deals, as well as pricey eveningoptions such as lamb in rosemary and rabbit.QOpen 12:00- 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-120zł). PTASWMosaica G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667 80 00, www.mosaica.pl. Celebrating their first birthday this Februarythe chaps at Mosaica have plenty to celebrate. This hasemerged as one of the top eateries in town, with a moderninternational menu which includes Spanish tapas and panAsian offerings. Of note is the sorbet, which comes preparedin front of your eyes. As the name suggests, mosaics arethe central decorative theme here, and the interior comestopped off with a 1925 piano imported from Berlin - hearingit in action is worth the trip in itself.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.(29-86zł). PTAUEBXSWPapavero B-1, ul. 3 Maja 46, tel. 061 853 24 82,www.papavero.poznan.pl. It’s all very Day of the Triffidsin Papavero, a lovely little restaurant that could easily bemistaken for an overgrown garden. Peer beyond the leavesand the cherubs and one finds a rather fine restaurant, withan American sirloin that does just enough to distract dinersfrom engaging in daring flower theft.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-92zł). PTAXSWPieprz i Wanilia C-2, ul. Murna 3a, tel. 061 851 86 64,www.pieprzwanilia.pl. Formerly known as Piwnica Murnathis place has seen changes aplenty. The daggers and antlershave gone, replaced by light, bright furnishing, timber touchesand a menu that encompasses recipes from around Europe.The sirloin in devil sauce proves to be one of the tastiest slicesof animal flesh one could wish for. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.(12-42zł). PTAXSWPortofino D-1, ul. Żydowska 26/4, tel. 061 852 48 98,www.portofino.eu.pl. Right on the corner of Żydowska, thisclass act comes with powder blue colours and an interiorthat whisks you to the shores of the Mediterranean. Itlooks great, and the menu does the rest with some crackingmodern European cooking that warrants repeat visits.QOpen 15:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 24:00. (10-40zł).TAXSRestauracja Zapadnia E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, tel.061 848 48 85 ext. 202. In the cellar of the renovated NowyTeatr, Zapadnia looks and feels like an upmarket restaurant,with only the prices suggesting otherwise. Sporting a flashybar, elegant seating and a clientele of culture creatures thisplace is a pleasing surprise, with an inoffensive menu ofgeneric European offerings.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-22zł).PTAUGSWRestaurant de Rome C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego22 (Rzymski Hotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl.Don’t let the name fool you, the menu here isPolish and European with standards like zurek and pierogialongside a few game dishes. It’s right at the back of a threestar hotel, with no windows and a tame interior that provesinstantly forgettable. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (21-48zł).PTAUEXSWRoom 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 85532 24, www.room55.pl. This place would last threeminutes in the capital, but in Poznan a centre location,Peroni lager, decent wifi connection and English-speakingstaff are enough to elevate a rather run-of-the-mill venueto heights not necessarily deserved. It’s certainly notdreadful, but it’s by no means the cutting edge bar oreatery some of the patrons (or staff) seem to think.It’s a bar first and foremost, and that’s reflected in therather standard quality of food. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (18-140zł).PTJAUXSWRzymianka C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (RzymskiHotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl.This bright, informal, cafeteria-style restaurant in the HotelRzymski is a popular breakfast spot. The continentalbreakfast is a fair deal and they also do omelettes andsausages from dawn. Lunch and dinner options includegyros, cutlets, fried salmon, grilled pork, ribs, pastaand salads. The menu has crystal-clear colour photosof the dishes so you know exactly what you`re getting.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-48zł).PTAUXSWSól i Pieprz (Salt and Pepper) B-2, ul. Garncarska 2,tel. 0 781 95 03 95, www.solipieprz.com.pl. A completelynaff name, but in the restaurant trade the buck stops withthe food and there’s no faulting the stuff that appears on theplate in front of you. On the menu find a series of modernPolish dishes - including super pierogi - served inside a pleasantenvironment which never comes close to outshining thechef. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-70zł).AIXSWSonata C-2, ul. Wrocławska 14, tel. 061 852 2701, www.restauracjasonata.pl. A modern Europeanrestaurant specialising in exotic creations like grilledsalmon in mustard sauce. The main dining room ispleasant and unexciting, but downstairs you’ll find anatmospheric brick vault with a piano and a fireplace.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (25-52zł).PTJAIEXPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

42 RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS43Polish FoodThose wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the worldof the Polish kitchen should consider putting the followingto the test:Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary beforea meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,but it works like a miracle any day, especially an arcticone. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polishrestaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of thisprior to your meal. You only need ask.Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signaturesoups; żurek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoesfloating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplingsthrown in). Table manners go out of the window wheneating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a huntersstew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkrautbefore being left to simmer for a few days. If you have secondhelpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.Gołąbki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onionand rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urbanmyth claims Poland’s King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbkibefore his victory outside Malbork in a battle against theTeutonic Order. The unlikely victory was attributed to thehearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varietiesmade primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for includingKrakowska, a Kraków specialty which uses pepper andgarlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured withcarraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shapedsausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’smost notorious gangland figures of the 90s.Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionally filled with meat,cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally findmaverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often pairedwith lashings of sour cream. Again, all your traditionalfolksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, ifnot you have every right to raise a few questions in thedirection of the kitchen.Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stalebaguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it withmushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle. Besteaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it: variousfast food cabins dotted around the city centre.Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated thana good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being amust if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole youhave visited their country.Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,in this case pig’s blood mixed with groats, and is generallyserved fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is notserved in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dishis Czernina, a soup made of duck’s blood mixed with poultrybroth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was thedish served by the parents of young women to her suitors as asign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.U Mnie Czy u Ciebie A-2, ul. Gwarna 3, tel. 061 85258 82, www.umnieczyuciebie.pl. Lots of bare brick, whitewalls and sepia photos give this place a lifestyle mag look,and its already done a fair job on roping the customersin. The menu - comprising of salads, snacks and mainslike chicken fillet - isn’t the most adventurous you’ll find,but that’s by no means a handicap; what they do, they dowell. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 21:30. (10-50zł).PTABSWWejście Obok C-1, ul. Zamkowa 4, tel. 061 85014 90, www.wejscieobok.pl. A great little find, andone that’s fitted with the sort of country cottage interioryou’d expect in a fairytale. Most people use this as acafé, and there’s few better ways to lose a day than byturning up here with a clever sounding book. However,there is reason to linger into the night, and that’s thepresence of a rather decent menu that includes salads,pasta and roast beef.QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. (9-48zł).PTAUXSWItalianDa Luigi D-2, ul. Woźna 1, tel. 061 851 73 11. Low, lowprices, a friendly welcome - sometimes by Luigi himself - andexcellent pizza are enough to earn this restaurant its stripes.Actually, calling this place a restaurant is a little fanciful. Thisis more of a foggy trattoria, and mostly frequented by thestudents who spill out of the bars opposite.QOpen 12:00- 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (8-40zł).PTJGSDonatello E-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 29c, tel. 061 86532 99, www.pizza.wlkp.pl. A customary trattoriadécor of dried flowers and brickwork doesn’t do justiceto what rates as some as the best pizza in Poznań.Flawless cooking and budget prices account for a constantbuzz of people. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. (25-50zł).PTAUIXSFidelio H-3, ul. Garbary 50, tel. 061 852 67 94, www.fidelioristorante.pl. A Venetian style restaurant where itappears Valentines Day never dies. Fresh pasta, seafoodand pizza are part of the repertoire, and though it’s not halfas fab as when it first opened, Fidelio is still good enough toattract a stream of local Romeo’s bidding to bed their latestJulia. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun12:00 - 23:00. (18-240zł). PTAXSGirasole D-1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. 061 851 37 29.Easily overlooked on account of their end-of-old townlocation, though that doesn’t mean you should. Simplebut stylish, decorations include a wooden fittings, tiledfloors and vases of cheerful flowers, and the menu hits thespot each time with homemade pastas and substantialslike pork fillet with oranges. Liberal prices leave plenty ofchange for the wine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27-45zł).TAGBSWLa Scala C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 853 04 89, www.lascala.com.pl. One of the priciest meals in Poznań, servedinside a fantasia of shimmery fabrics, stucco mouldingsand murals depicting Venice in its full glory. Furnished witha flourish not a single inch has been left undecorated, withthe overall effect leaving your eyes spinning in their sockets.In exchange of a peel of banknotes expect to be treatedto simpering service and some outstanding renditions ofupscale Italian dishes, with the carpaccio worth the visitalone. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.(24-150zł). PTAESWMassimiliano Ferre B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061 85281 12, www.mf.art.pl. What sounds like Victoria Beckham’sbeard trimmer is actually a very decent restaurant - not thatyou’d guess; togged out in stone cladding and cheapy furnitureM Ferre does bugger all to inspire confidence, and even lesswith a menu that reads in Polish only. Not much makes sensehere, least of all the mystery meal called Heffalump, but whatwe do know is the food really is smashing value. The pizzahere is superb, and while not quite as good as the one foundin Habana, it is a fair bit cheaper - these things count whenyou’re broke.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.(11-60zł). PTAEXSWMilano Ristorante F-2, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel.061 852 87 45, www.milano2.pl. An interior of polishedwoods, potted palms and crisp linen is the backdrop forone of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate,the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, butyou’re rewarded with excellent lamb, and seafood choices.QOpen 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (29-85zł).PTAXSMollini B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 852 53 33,www.mollini.pl. Pleasant new Italian venture delightfullyfree of cliché pics of Vespa’s, Loren and the Coliseum. Infact, the only thing you’ll find on the wall is wine, racksand racks of wine. This place takes itself seriously, andthe menu is a knockout collection of faultless meals. Thiscould yet become one of the top restaurants in Poznań.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. (20-50zł).PTAEXSWPiano Bar Restaurant & Cafe C-3, ul. Półwiejska42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall),, tel. 061 859 65 70,www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Attached to the side of the StaryBrowar Shopping Mall Piano Bar rates as one of the top optionsin Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, withcream shades paired with moody lighting and striking artexhibitions. Although you’ll find all the expected pasta andmeat meals it’s the fish that tends to steal the show here,which is something of a result in landlocked Poznań.QOpen12:00 - 24:00. (20-75zł). PT AUEWPizzeria Rozmaitości C-1, ul. Zamkowa 5, tel. 0 664653 375. The world turns upside down in Rozmaitosci, avenue where the staff are fantastic and the food the utteropposite. It is possible to get takeaway here, but only at timeswhen the owner has had the foresight to order some boxes;otherwise take a seat and go to war on leather pizzas witha set of ultra bendy cutlery. Chances are you’ll find yourselfhiding unwanted slices under the table, in plant pots andeven down your trousers - anywhere but your mouth, in fact.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-69zł).PARSBrunchFusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9(Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. You’ve now got a very good reasonto get out of bed on Sunday, that being the SheratonSunday Brunch. Adults pay 109zl (half price kids between6-12, free for anything younger), a price which buys alavish buffet spread, free flow booze, live music and asupervised kids corner. Popular with high rolling Poles, andexpats who’ve just rolled out of bed, you’ll be hard pressedto find a better use for a Sunday afternoon. Open between12:30 to 17:00.Q PTAUEBXSWPolish BrunchThe best recipefor a lazy SundaySpend this day differently with your folksSpare yourself the time for preparationTry the very best from Polish CuisineVariety of Fine Traditional DishesEvery Sunday from 12:30-5:00pm109 PLN per person(inclusive of vodka, wine, tea, coffee,juices, still & sparking water)Children under 6 – free of charge,up to 12 – 50% discount.One timeofferShow this ad upon settlingyour brunch billand receive uniquegiftValid till 30.05.2009Fusion RestaurantSheraton Poznan HotelBukowska 3/9Reservations: 0 61 655 2000gss.poznan@sheraton.comPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

44 RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS45Sakana Sushi Bar D-2, ul. Wodna 7/1, tel. 061 85316 39, www.sakana.pl. Five star sushi served inside a palevanilla coloured interior equipped with all the necessary ricepaper panels and bamboo extras. Raw fish circles the bar insmall wooden boats, ready to be snapped up by wasp-waistedfashionista revelling in the chance to showoff deftly executedchopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.(50-80zł). PTJAUGSWSushi 77 Noodle Bar D-2, ul. Woźna 10, tel. 061853 33 86, www.sushi77.com. Poznan has gone mad forsushi, though judging by the crowd figures you’d have to bea mental oriental to eat in Sushi 77. No matter what time youpop by you’re going to find more chance of conversation in apet shop - or out in the back where the staff like to lurk. Thesushi is actually not bad in the slightest, but the atmosphereand staff leave a lot to be desired.QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.(27-49zł). PTAGSWSushi Sekai C-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. 061 853 3533, www.sushisekai.pl. Your sushi sets come covertlyprepared behind the scenes and presented to you insidea smartly appointed interior that features dark lacqueredwoods and square paneled lamps. Great presentation (keepan eye for the sushi sets laid out onto a wooden bridgestructure), and good flavours, as well as a series of moresubstantial main courses such as beef sirloin in teriyakisauce served on a hot plate. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (28-70zł). PTAXSEasterAs a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter celebrationsseriously; this is no place for the Easter Bunny.Throughout the period, the visiting foreigner can expectbars and restaurants to be either empty or closed, and thestreets deserted. In the past housewives were forbiddenfrom baking bread in the week leading up to Palm Sunday.To do so would be tempting a poor harvest, and anyonecaught breaking this unofficial law would find themselvesbeing thrown into the nearest pond. The Poles have lightenedup since those days, but this is still a time markedby tradition and trips to the nearest church.On the Saturday before Easter Poles will take baskets offood to church to have them blessed. Good Friday is atime to paint eggs and bake cakes. Saturday is a day ofsermons and processions. (In medieval times, this wasalso apparently an appropriate moment to identify andpunish witches.) Come Easter Sunday, families will gatheraround the dinner table and feast on delicacies like whitesausage, bigos and poppy seed cakes. A symbolic lamb,usually made from dough, is placed on the table to symbolizethe resurrection of Christ.Things take a more lighthearted twist on Easter Monday.Known as Śmingus Dyngus the day is dominated by publicwater fights. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jugof water thrown over your head, this is an improvementfrom the past when young people would be beaten withsticks from Palm Sunday trees - which apparently broughtluck and strength for the year ahead. In 2009 you’ll findnational holidays designated for April 12 and April 13.Valpolicella C-2, ul. Wrocławska 7, tel. 061 855 71 91,www.valpolicella.poznan.pl. This place hasn’t changed sinceour debut issue; find 21 types of antipasti, the usual meat andpasta dishes and wines from Veneto inside a crazily asymmetricaldecor painted in cartoon colours. Certainly reliable if nothingelse.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (25-70zł). PTJAXSNEWVilla Magnolia Ristorante ul. Głogowska 40, tel. 061865 34 48. A stately venue, and one which makes abundantuse of chandeliers and marble columns. Everything looks RollsRoyce here, from the immaculate linen to dashing wait staff. Forthe most part diners will be parting with around 50 zlots for a maincourse here, though high rollers should look into ordering the jumboprawns served in oyster sauce - a snip at 189 zeds. An excellentvenue, though whether it will survive in the post-credit crunch worldis open to debate. Q (32-189zł). PTAEXSWJapaneseOpen: Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00Sun: 13:00-22:00Sushi Bar SAKANAul. Wodna 7/1Poznańtel. 61 853 16 39www.sakana.plNEWKyokai Sushi Bar ul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. 0 51937 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Poznan’s appetite for sushi keepsgrowing, and Kyokai is the latest contender in the battle of thechopsticks. Sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, Tokyo-style,while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. QOpen 10:00- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10-55zł). TAGSWMatii Restaurant - Vodka Bar - Sushi Bar G-4, Pl. Andersa5, tel. 061 850 50 20, www.matii.pl. The competitionfor Poznań’s best sushi is seriously hotting up and this placelooks like a real contender for the title. Standing in the shadow ofthe Stary Browar mall Matii makes use of imported sushi mastersto create a comprehensive range of top-notch aquatic choicesthat delight the masses. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat12:00 - 24:00. (19-68zł). PTAUXSWJewishCymes D-2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. 061 851 66 38, www.cymespoznan.pl. Time stands still in Cymes, where Poznań’sonce rich Jewish heritage is perfectly preserved in a nostalgicdining room sprinkled with menorahs, empire furniture andcloth-capped jars. The menu quite literally tells the story ofJewish cuisine and bursts with familiar dishes like carp, czulentand chicken skewers, presented by amiable white-shirtedwaiters. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00. (18-34zł). TJASMexicanCzerwone Sombrero B-3, ul. Piekary 17, tel. 061 85261 01, www.czerwone-sombrero.pl. Granted, it’s betterthan The Mexican, but then so is sifting through a hospital bin.Mexican food hasn’t exported well to Poland, and here’s moreproof. The salsa is tame, the tortillas from a packet and the foodburied under verdant fields of cabbage. It’s two star stuff frankly,though what makes it palatable is a cracking atmosphere that’sjust perfect for tanking back the tequila. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00,Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (20-38zł). TAISThe Mexican C-1, ul. Kramarska 19, tel. 061 851 05 36,www.mexican.pl. Is the Polish food in Mexico this bad? Boyishwaiters dressed as cowboys greet diners at the door, then leadyou to take your chances on what might stand out as the mostshocking meal of your year. We’d like to see a picture of the cookadded to the Wanted posters, as the man is clearly a charlatanof the most sinister design. Barely defrosted tortillas arrive hiddenunder sickly green gunk that wastes no time in letting theintestines know they’re in trouble.QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Thu,Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. (16-50zł). TAIEXSPizzeriasEstella D-2, ul. Garbary 41, tel. 061 852 34 10, www.estella.com.pl.A spacious, traditional pizzeria with 45 types of pizzaand an equally daunting number of pasta dishes. Long established,with a faithful set of followers who won’t eat pizza anywhere else.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (12-69zł). PTJAXSPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

46 RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS47Pizza Hut G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.0 660 70 96 42, www.pizzahut.com.pl. Just what you’dexpect. Also on ul. Szwajcarska 14, ul. Murawa 104 and ul.Kaspra Drużbickiego 2. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -21:00. (20-40zł). PTAUGSTivoli D-1, ul. Wroniecka 13, tel. 061 852 39 16, www.pizzeriativoli.pl. A basic, intimate spot with wooden boothsand bunches of garlic and spices hanging everywhere. Apioneer on the Poznań pizza scene since 1991, they serve40 types of pizza with every ingredient you can think of anda few that would never occur to you, like peach and banana.Other locations can be found on Naramowicka 187 andCzesława 3. Expect the same. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12-27zł). TJAXSWPolishBamberka C-2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. 061 852 99 17. Along-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex ofbuildings at the centre of the town square. Tiffany lamps,stained glass panels and other classic touches add an awkwardlyformal feel to the restaurant, though that does nothingto detract from a strong European menu that includes severallocal dishes. The pierogi are excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.(14-54zł). PTJASWChłopskie Jadło D-2, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance fromul. Franciszkanska), tel. 061 853 66 60, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl.Here’s primitive dining for caveman appetites.The menu here is meat and potatoes farmer’s fare, withtables positively sinking under the weight of cabbage, lardand animals. Decorated with jars of pickles and rusty sawsthis is the complete Polish immersion experience, and thenumber one way to get to grips with the country you’ve justentered.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (10-60zł). PTASDramat C-2, Stary Rynek 41, tel. 061 856 09 38, www.dramat.com.pl. One of the few places in the Rynek whereyou can enjoy a pile of food without peeling off a numberof banknotes. Serving a breakfast menu of sausages andeggs, late risers will head straight into their main menu whichincludes a pretty definitive list of Polish dishes - rangingfrom pierogi and their assorted fillings to pork chops. Vast,with stout wooden extending into the cellars and an amiableset of staff keeping a watchful eye on their customers.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (11-27zł).TJAIXSWKresowa C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 853 12 91. Thisstandout restaurant in the centre of Stary Rynek is pleasantlyold-fashioned, with classic furniture and brisk waistcoatedstaff serving up appetisers like caviar and shrimp cocktail,and main dishes like veal, beef tenderloin and grilled salmon.Remember to look up: the ceiling is covered with wittycaricatures of Polish celebrities who’ve eaten here, includingNobel laureate Czesław Miłosz and tennis star WojciechFibak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (16-45zł).PTJAEXSMłyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37(Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Filled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill’sWheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu thattakes its ingredients seriously; the fish are caught first thingin the morning, while the duck apparently comes from theadjacent lake. Tell them in advance and they’ll spit-roast apig for you. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-69zł).TAUIEWMarkowa Knajpka C-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. 061853 01 78. The village meets the city in Makowa Knajpka,a whitewashed room featuring dark timber fittingsand some valium grooves. Excellent value local dishesare presented to a thirty something crowd by a team offriendly bargirls whose looks make the heart go ‘ping’.We’ve always settled for the ‘classic steak’, and have yetto be disappointed.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-52zł). PTAUEBXSWPod Aniołem C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 852 9854. Even the background din of big screen MTV doesn’tdistract from what is a pretty good feed. Fine diners aregoing to run, but everyone else will appreciate the straightforward style here - the food is deliciously simple; hunks ofmeat cooked using local recipes and served with crinklyfries. It won’t win awards, but it most certainly will fill anygap you’ve been minding. Cellos and fiddles hang fromthe ceiling, while the collection of wood furnishings andassorted junk lend themselves well to the warming winteratmosphere.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.(18-35zł). AXSPod Dzwonkiem D-2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. 061851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Resembling atraditional mountain lodge Under the Bell features avariety of rustic touches, with timber beams loadedwith rusting machinery, pumpkins and ferns. Bar stoolsare fashioned out of saddles, while elsewhere dinerscan sit on seating carved from barrels, before orderinglavish helpings of ribs stewed in beer and honey,or skewered animals fresh from the grill. Simple buteffective. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.(23-48zł). TAXSWPod Koziołkami C-2, Stary Rynek 95, tel. 061851 78 68, www.podkoziolkami.pl. A long standingrestaurant that has been delighting both carnivoresand vegetarians for years. Upstairs you’ll find a hugepantry with the daily salads and pierogi on the menu.Head downstairs to the grill cellar for your daily proteinquota. The interiors in this section are authenticallyshadowy with a medieval flavour, while the menu is agood range of meaty choices like sirloin steak. QOpen11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-87zł). PTJAUBXSWPod Złotą Jabłonią (Under The Gold Appletree)D-1, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70,www.podzlotajablonia.com.pl. There’s somethinga little covert about dining here; lavish fittings andexpensive looking artwork lend something of aprivate club atmosphere to this place. The menu isPolish influenced, though that does nothing to stopthe chefs from letting their imaginations caper free- check out the duck in aniseed and honey.QOpen12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (44-118zł).PTAEXSWRatuszova C-2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. 061 851 0513, www.ratuszova.eu. Either dine on the groundfloor or descend the stairs and into a sprawlingcellar complete with vaulted ceilings and knightlymurals. Ribs, steak, duck and other meaty mealscome served by an efficient staff, and serious meateaters can satisfy their bloodlust by ordering theRatuszova plate; it includes three types of meatand feeds a tiger.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-69zł).PTJA6IGXSWMeteorsSome 10,000 years ago, the unsuspecting inhabitantsof the forests 10km north of what is now Poznań werein for a nasty surprise when 4,500 tonnes of white-hotrock slammed into their back yard. Forgotten in the yearsthat followed the Morasko meteor craters were onlyrediscovered in 1914, when soldiers who were diggingtrenches during World War I came across a 77kg lump ofmeteorite. In total, several chunks (containing 90 per centiron) totalling 255kg have been found at the site, oftenby farmers. When the disintegrating Morasko meteoritecame crashing from the cosmos, the impact createdeight large craters, of which seven remain today (onehaving been destroyed by ploughing). The meteoritescame from the northeast, as the crater rims are highestto the south and southwest, allegedly as part of a Perseidmeteor shower linked with the wonderfully named comet‘Swift Tuttle’. After 10,000 years of erosion, the largestcrater is still 100m wide and 13m deep.Since 1976 the area has been protected as a naturereserve and is today easily accessible from Poznań.For your slice of intergalactic drama take tram number12, 14 or 15 from ul. Roosevelta to the terminus at Os.Jana Sobieskiego, and then follow the bicycle route whichgoes under the railway and northwest towards Moraskoforest. You can also get off the tram one stop earlier atSzymanowskiego, and change to bus N°88, which goes toMorasko village every 40 minutes. The craters are 600mfrom Morasko and 4km from the tram terminus and thesurrounding beech forest is also home to numerousendangered plants.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

48 RESTAURANTSCAFÉS49Stary MarychThe bronze statue of a man with a bicycle that you mayfind yourself colliding into is that of Stary Marych, oneof Poznań’s best loved exports. Found on the corner of(C-3) ul. Półwiejska and Strzelcka the figure is based ona fictional character who came to symbolize the typicalPoznonian. Regarded as one of Poznań’s most famousnatives this grumpy but decent man was the creation ofJuliusz Kubel and featured heavily in the writers columns,all the time speaking a particular brand of local Poznańdialect. The statue was the work of Robert Sobocińskiand it hit the headlines last year when one local masterthief made off with the old mans left pedal. The missingarticle was finally replaced in 2006, thereby restoringthe statue to its full glory.A. PagińskaW-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda A-1, ul. Fredry 12, tel.061 665 88 01, www.w-z.pl. W-Z is nothing less than anA-Z of Polish cooking, with everything from pancakes to pierogito pork knuckle to deal with. This place is vast, and comesrammed with the obligatory timber décor, flower pots andtree branches. Definitely a first stop to get acquainted withthe local dinner habits, and highly recommended. QOpen11:00 - 24:00. (13-51zł). PTJAEXSWSpanishTapas Bar D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32,www.tapas.pl. Right on the corner of the Rynek this Spanishspot has long been popular with a cashed up local crowd.Service is stone faced but everything else wins gold stars;from a warm interior littered with wrought iron and Hispanicpaintings to the steaks, which we rate as some of the bestwe’ve tried. The kitchen is right at the entrance, allowingdiners the opportunity to hear their food sizzle and chefs clatteringaround cursing less competent colleagues. Always agood night, and sometimes excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (38-67zł). PJABTaste Barcelona C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary BrowarII floor), tel. 061 278 76 86. Stary Browar keeps surprisingus. Every shopping centre now claims to be ‘more than a mall’,but here’s one that actually justifies the hyperbole. Part ofthe reason is the endless stream of top notch eateries, andTaste Barcelona is one of the latest. The open plan designleaves diners open to peering eyes, but there’s no faultingthe aesthetics; clean, blond woods and coloured bottlesset behind an illuminated bar. On the menu good quickietapas bites cooked with confidence and presented withflair. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (15-30zł).PAXSWArkady D-2, Stary Rynek 52, tel. 061 852 06 15. A realwaste of prime real estate. Occupying a corner of the mainsquare this one room affair comes decorated in a naff mockturn-of-century fashion with oil paintings and a chandelierhanging from the ceiling. Top ten hits from the Polish chartspollute the air, and you can’t help but conclude that Arkadyhas all the charisma of cholera. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00.AGSWAtmosfera (Atmosphere) D-1, ul. Mokra 2, tel.061 851 03 99. Smokers tired of relentless persecutionin the west should make a beeline here. Goingcompletely against the grain these guys have takenthe inspired step of getting rid of their no-smoking section;good work lads. This is a cracking cafe/bar, itstwo floors complete with creaking floorboards, fragilecabinets, weird artwork and huddles of academics leafingthrough notebooks. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat12:00 - 24:00. ASWBehemot D-1, ul. Kramarska 16, tel. 0 784 52 25 11.The cat lovers choice. Find cat pictures adorning every possiblespace, some cute, some scary. A gigantic stock of teas,and decent selection of desserts are at your disposal. Thedark lighting makes it a good spot for an intimate encounter.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. JCacao Republika C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 85543 78. Full of rattan and spindly plants this slightly staidcoffee stop benefits from its location, just round the cornerfrom the square. Atmosphere is somewhat lacking, a faultcompensated by freshly roasted coffee beans and a widerange of herbal teas.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 -23:00. TJASWCafe Bordo D-1, ul. Żydowska 28/3, tel. 061 851 0081, www.cafebordo.com. The garden is one of the bestin town; stuffed with flower pots, vines and a fountain. WithPoznań temporarily finding itself part of the arctic circleyou’re not going to see much of it, so instead head indoorswhere the aroma of herbal tea hangs thick in the air, anda middle-aged crowd whisper amid flickering candles andbottles of wine. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.TJAXWCafe Sekret C-2, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. 0 605 41 3328, www.cafesekret.pl. A right little treasure this place,with a scattering of chambers set amid vaulted bricks wallsand cobbled flooring. Dimly lit, and decorated with burstsof flowers and fruit, the owner appears to have somethingof a liking for brown - a nice colour for chocolate, yes, notso striking when thrown on furniture. Nevertheless, thiscafé is a corker, and a bit of a favourite with the localcognoscenti. The house specialty is the ‘apple fantasy’,and it tastes all the better if the turtle-necked pianist is inresidence.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.EXSWCaffe Ławka D-1, ul. Żydowska 8, tel. 061 853 4348. A super cafe bar with a girly Laura Ashley designin the front, and a great garden out the back. Lying inbetween is a temporary building site, meaning you’llbe stepping over hammers and spanners as Polskibuilders clank around you. It’s well worth the brushwith the working class, the garden is ace, and if you’relucks in you’ll be treated to the sound of a talentedneighbour practising violin. On the menu a vast choiceof desserts and teas, as well as frozen smoothies madeusing the fruits of the season. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.TAEXSWChimera D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 03 17,www.chimera.poznan.pl. Walk past a counter stacked withteas and cakes to take a seat on turquoise coloured furnishings.Spindly plants line the window stills and a strong winelist encourages a middle-aged crowd through the doors. Thisis one place where smokers are in the minority, and will findthemselves banished to a back room.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTJAXCocorico D-2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. 061 852 95 29.Best known for its fairytale garden Cocorico would still warranta visit even if sun felt out of the sky. In colder times boltyourself inside amid a charming topsy-turvy interior heavingwith chintz and sepia photographs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. JASCofeel’ya D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 6219. Lined up like skittles ulica. Żydowska features an outstandingrow of café stops and eateries. Cofeel’ya is theyoungest of the brood, and comes suitably dressed witha hip, urbane motif accentuated by bright primary coloursand chillout tunes. But this place is not just about coffee,with the menu also promising a selection of gourmet teas,cocktails, salads and desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.ASWCosta Coffee G-4, ul. Półwiejska 26, tel. 061 610 1515, www.costacoffee.pl. Within the space of three minutesthe people at Costa Coffee have gone bananas and openedin practically every major urban area - from Katowice toGdansk. The Poznan venture is exactly the same as the others,with a generic and sterile interior offset by what is reliablydecent coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.PTAXSWThe oldest Restaurant in PoznańWhere King Jan II Kazimierz Waza residedYou may savour authentic Polish cuisine anddishes of an international flavour expertlyprepared by our highly experienced Chef.Three different areas are available forour guests: restaurant, cafe, barStary Rynek 55, Poznań, tel +48 61 8510 513email: info@ratuszova.euwww.ratuszova.euPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

50CAFÉSNIGHTLIFE51Czekolada D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 92 91,www.czekoladacafe.pl. A trendy version of Willie Wonka’schocolate factory. Stark white walls, earth coloured drapesand chill-out tunes generate an edgy atmosphere. The staffare brilliant, the clientele wear black and the toilet has tobe the most space-age in Poznań. The menus, attached tobig wooden sticks, cover all imagainable chocolate perversions:from chocolate fondue to ‘Mexican chocolate chicken’.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. TJASWFiligrando Cafe & Lunch C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (StaryBrowar), tel. 061 667 12 15, www.filigrando.pl. Justas Stary Browar has proved to be much more than a mallFiligrando proves to be much more than a café. Placed inthe part that connects the new and old wing of Stary Browarthis fancy café isn’t unlike climbing into a wedding cake, whatwith all the frills and snow white colours. Crammed with birdcages, bits of straw and racks of wine this place is an aestheticpleasure, and far beyond the café stops usually foundin malls. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun10:00 - 20:00. PTAUEXSWGong D-2, ul. Wielka 22, tel. 061 852 54 67. A real oldiethis one, and still as popular as ever in spite of an obstinaterefusal to renovate the interiors. This was formerly a cinemaand Gong keeps the spirit of Hollywood alive with pics of silverscreen sirens and film director chairs. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PXSGruszecki D-2, Stary Rynek 50, tel. 061 826 81 07,www.gruszecki.pl. The flagship venture of the Gruszecki cakecompany, this town square café is a goldmine for both adultsand their offspring. Big cakes, cream rolls and every dessert underthe sun served by a team of frosty, droid-like staff. QOpen10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. AXSWNEWKawka D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 852 60 70. A popularspot for afternoon coffee or an after-work beer, the windowshere always appear to catch the sunlight. Sporting a style thatfalls between artsy and rural, Kawka features black-and-whiteprints, a piano and a cupboard topped with a battered suitacase.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAUSPożegnanie z Afryką A-2, ul. Szkolna15, tel. 061 85533 49, www.pozegnanie.com. View coffee contraptions ofevery size and style inside this nationwide chain. Equippedwith bags of beans and jars of coffee leaves this place looksevery inch a contender, and the drinks menu is truly global inits scope. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AGSPod Pretekstem (Under a Veil) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin80/82 (entrance from ul. Kościuszki 79), tel. 061 853 3047, www.podpretekstem.pl. A quirky café/bar/restaurantsituated round the back of the Zamek. Trumpets hang fromthe ceiling and giant beetles adorn the walls. Art nouveaudetails abound with several oddities thrown in, and while thestaff can frustrate with their mute and meek approach thisremains one of the top café bars in the city. Every so often thelights dim and a pianist dressed in a cat black polo neck takesto the stage; worth the visit alone. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEXSWPomarańcza D-1, ul. Żydowska 26, tel. 061 852 4067. Poznań’s café strip gets better with the addition of Pomarancza.Modern art combines with decent teas and coffeethough the lasting impression will be of the orange theme;find everything from chunky orange candlesticks to mandarinssitting inside flowerpots in this cheerful neighbourhood café.QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. JAENEWPost-Office Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. 061 67064 48. It took us months to locate this place, it’s that small - findit yourself by pointing your beak towards those colourful burgherbuildings right by the town hall. Set on two levels this pumpkin-sizedcafe features a postal theme with the Queen’s head embossedonto the surfaces, and a loyal fan base who squeeze in to enjoyJapanese-style omelettes (no, we’ve no idea either) and otherinternational oddities. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AESWRed Erik Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel.061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. Home to a numberof bars, restaurants and cafes the Dom Vikingow complex is aself-contained ex-pat world, with Red Erik the most prominentvenue of the lot. Occupying the ground floor this restobarcrossover packs out the moment work finishes as off-dutybusiness bods take to the bar to size up the cocktails andimpress blonde bargirls with their faltering grasp of the locallingo. Always a smashing night out, with an all-purpose menuthat unites dishes from across the world, including curries,wraps, burgers and steaks. Breakfast served each day from10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TABSWSoho D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel. 061 221 70 45, www.cafesoho.pl. A small one-window affair piled with orangeishsofas and armchairs. The artwork on the walls changesregularly: on our visit a quirky photographic homage to theMini Cooper. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JAXSWStacja Cafe (The Station) D-2, ul. Woźna 1 (etrancefrom ul. Klasztorna), tel. 0 509 50 80 49. Sink into one ofthe armchairs and enjoy one of Poznań’s best kept secrets.Cluttered with board games and framed pictures expect a murkyKrakowian ambience. Clarinets and violins hang from walls, themusic is soft and moody and the interior complete with stonecobbles and a street light. If that doesn’t set the pulse racing, astolen glance at the barmaid will. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat11:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PTIXSWUczta Babette D-1, ul. Żydowska 27/2, tel. 061 855 7788. Ulica Żydowska has become the café capital of Poznań, andperched in the middle of it all is this brand new effort. Decoratedwith fuchsia colours and bursts of greenery this looks set to bejust the warming antidote you need after a day spent steppingin melted gunk. Timber touches and a scattering of armchairsadd to the magnetic charm.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat09:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. TAXSWUmberto D-1, ul. Żydowska 28, tel. 061 851 54 52, www.umberto.com.pl. In the thick of Poznan’s cafe quarter Umbertohas a trattoria atmosphere and a concise menu of Italian mains.A popular destination on a street not short on culinary stars.QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:30. AGSWeranda D-2, ul. Świętosławska 10, tel. 061 853 2587, www.zielonaweranda.pl. The interior, a warm jumbleof wooden clutter and soft music, is the ideal space to reheatyour cockles after braving the nut-numbing cold of alfresco Poland. And the menu is just what’s needed in suchemergencies - lots of teas, coffee and homemade puddings.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TJAXSZapiecek D-1, ul. Żydowska 10, tel. 061 851 06 50. Doyour thawing out inside this home from home. Decorationscome in the form of bookcases, roses and a piano, and staffcreep around on squeaking floorboards delivering tea, coffeeand piping hot beer filled with herbs. The garden in the back willhave you counting down for summer to arrive. QOpen 12:00 -24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. UXPoznan bars are flexible - no matter what the officialclosing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open untilthe last customer has stumbled out. Most night spotsare concentrated around the Old Town Square area, butalso check out ul. Nowowiejskiego and ul. Taczaka both ofwhom draw students in their droves.Bars & PubsAcademic Pub B-3, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. 061 853 69 80. Whilethe name suggests you’ll find crowds of intellectual swats you canrest assured that the last thing the students who drink here have ontheir mind is tomorrows lecture. This is a plain brick cellar with décorlimited to wooden benches and promotional bumph announcingthe availability of Red Bull and Lech. The juke box seems to play acontinuous cycle of Polish pop hits, while the toilet is of the sort thatwill send you skidding across puddles of urine, your fall broken by thereels of toilet paper sticking to the floor. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat09:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PXWAgawa E-3, ul. Mickiewicza 28, tel. 061 847 23 27, www.dart.dmf.pl. Darts heaven. Do your drinking inside a colourful environmentof plastic trees and orange walls while the thump of dartsmissing their target sounds off in the background. The backroomhere is lined with electronic darts boards, buzzing and whirring furiouslyas amateur sportsmen practice their noble pursuit. If you’rehere for a while then broaden your social horizons by joining one oftheir leagues. Ask at the bar for details. QOpen 13:00 - 04:00,Mon, Sun 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PXBalinga D-1, ul. Szewska 15, tel. 0 605 03 28 54,www.balinga.pl. A fab and scuzzy bar that shakes to thesound of electro, minimal and old skool dance choons. Outfront saucer-eyed locals pass sheesha pipes back and forth,while in the back room find the weekends chemical casualtiespassed out amid posters advertising Tresor and a sign artfullyliberated from Cambridge Avenue. Enjoy it while you can, they’llbe closed from April 30 onwards. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri,Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. EBarcode C-2, Stary Rynek 53/54, tel. 0 668 09 10 09,www.barcode-poznan.pl. An itsy little cocktail bar with roomfor about twelve people, or fifteen if they’re small. Decorated inmuted cream and chocolate colours this place has a mildly retroair, pre-club choons and a frightened little blond thing peeking overthe bar. It is a cocktail bar, though you’ll be lucky to find any flair orflamboyance employed in the making of your drink.QOpen 16:00- 24:00. From April 15 Open 09:00-24:00. PAUWWineBacchus Winiarnia D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061852 02 32, www.bartex.com.pl. A decent choice of worldwine inside a tiled interior with fake ivy and a Best of the 80ssoundtrack. In a city short on wine bars this place fills thevoid well. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Tue,Wed 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. AGWVinoteka la Bodega D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 92, tel.061 853 65 97, www.bodega.pl. Poznań’s wine loversfinally have a home to go to in this sleek bar strokeshop. Fitted out in pale blond colours Bodega has beencleverly decorated with corks hanging by the windowsand upturned wine glasses dangling from the ceilings.The wine offer is first rate and includes a number of newworld wines as well as more standard bottles, and yourtipple of choice comes served either by the glass or bythe bottle. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAXWPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

52 NIGHTLIFENIGHTLIFE53Bee Jay’s C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15,www.beejays.pl. It could only work in Poznan. Find cherubs,stained glass and bagpipes squeezed amidst flashing discolights and lairy promotional material supplied by Red Bullshit.The music is loud, and often rubbish, but Beejay’s still winscustomers on account of a good spread of seats, decentdrinks selection, and some good lookers behind the bar. Theydo food, but then so do prisons.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri,Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJAIEWNEWBlow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99 91.Woah, if there’s one place that’s left an impact this issue it’sthe Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, withmetal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch tothe clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes withyour head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a scientifichand. As for the bar itself, that’s a multi-angled, zinc platedmasterpiece that has no rival. It’s not often we attach thewords unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.Blue Note Jazz Club A-1, ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. A vast multi-level jazzclub whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedywritten all over it - don’t let that fool you, this venue is a legend,with some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazzperforming in the past. Do check what’s cooking beforehandmind; this space has been known to be rented out for teen hiphop nights and other hooded-top twaddle. QOpen 19:00 -01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAUEBodega Cafe D-1, ul. Żydowska 4, tel. 061 851 00 94. Thisis where the local night cats head to when they grow up. Popularwith a late twenties crowd Bodega features low lounge seating,chocolate colours and subdued lighting. Find the wine room outback.QOpen12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. PABBogota A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 853 71 33,www.bogotaclub.pl. Bogota? Bog standard, more to the point.This place is as Colombian as your garden shed, with nothing tocheer this bland basement waste other than some token scrapsof Aztec art and a collection of uncomfortable benches. At aguess there approximately 100 better bars to visit. QOpen16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAWBrogans Irish Pub D-1, ul. Szewska 20a, tel. 061 85250 73, www.brogans.pl. Loud, smoky and slightly murky,Brogan’s is everything you expect from an Irish pub, with acracking atmosphere that brings to mind the hazy air of yourneighborhood local. Visual diversions come courtesy of tankards,chess boards and street signs, while a regular rotationof international guest beers keep the crowd clinking glassesway into the night.QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. PJAEXBrovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel.061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Drink Poznań’s bestbeer alongside business travelers talking contracts and nativehigh-fliers courting the attentions of the local sex sirens.Out in the back a large room crammed with copper vats anddials produces the three house beers, while in the front finda modern design that combines steel and glass in tastefulstyle. Never a quiet night, and definitely a nominee for bar ofthe year. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJAWBrowar Pub C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar ShoppingMall), tel. 0618596570, www.slodownia.com. A huge drinkingcomplex featuring copper brewing vats, plenty of booze food and theatmosphere of a ribald beer hall. Cut out queues and middlemenby booking a table with a private beer tap.QOpen 20:00 - 02:00,Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAWBuddha Bar C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10 (enter from ul.Sieroca), tel. 061 852 33 99, www.buddhabar-poznan.pl. A nightclub inside an Indian restaurant? You’ve every rightto be suspicious. What works as a restaurant (and an outstandingone at that), simply doesn’t float our boat as a club.It looks great, but it appears the pin-up party people havedrifted away since this venue first opened its doors. By allmeans come for food, go elsewhere for the party. The music,incidentally, is nothing like you’d expect from a venue makinguse of the Buddha name - no lounge or trance tracks here,just chart noise interspersed with the occasional bhangrabeat.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri,Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAUCactus Factoria D-2, ul. Ślusarska 5, tel. 0 51011 18 02. A multi-level restaurant, bar, club mutantwith black/red colours, latin music and some mysteriousspongey fabric on the walls outback. Strangely, in spite ofbeing in possession of enough booze to sink the Titanic,they couldn’t fix a margarita; fortunately with staff this stunningit’s a fault that gets quickly overlooked. The upstairssection houses the club, and it’s been known to get prettylively come the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat12:00 - 03:00. AWCafé Plotka D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 1933, www.plotka.poznan.pl. Framed pictures of ducks sitalongside china plates and other associated frilly extras.We’re undecided whether this is a bar or a café - the cakesstanding on the corner suggest the former, the giggling gangsof middle-aged girls on the razzle suggest the latter. QOpen12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. JACorner Pub A-2, ul. Taczaka 10, tel. 061 633 23 32,www.corner-pub.pl. It’s on a corner, down a basementand full of students. You need know nothing more about thisvenue, other than it’s immensely popular with people willingto sacrifice design extras for near giveaway beer.QOpen08:00 - 05:00. PCoxy’s D-2, ul. Woźna 11. There might be hope for Coxy’syet. When this place opened it was hyped as an alternativeto Dom Vikingow’s Sports Bar. The competition has closed(inexplicably), making Coxy’s by default the one expat friendlysports pub in town. Lined with framed football shirts andassorted football detritus this venue comes into its elementwhenever there’s a big match on, and gets a decentweekend following of stag nights and students.QOpen14:00 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 04:00,Sun 14:00 - 24:00. AECzerwony Fortepian D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18 (entrancefrom ul. Mokra), tel. 061 852 01 74, www.czerwonyfortepian.pl.An upscale restaurant and bar that marketsitself as the classiest jazz joint in town - which might accountfor the snidey, snooty, what-the-hell-do-you-want attitude ofyour waiter. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a private club,and the interiors are all the better since a recent renovationsaw all the previous furnishings auctioned off to a Parisbrothel. Now it’s a super cool vanilla design with scrubbedbricks and a back-lit bar, with the only surviving remnant fromtimes gone being the 100 year old piano. QOpen 12:00 -24:00. PJAEXWDéja Vu Café D-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. 0 502 03 38 87. Atrip to Deja Vu is essential for anyone wishing to masqueradeas a student. This place is full of them, and little more thana series of plainly decorated rooms that simmer with noiseat all hours. Boozy and basic with a hangover guaranteed.QOpen 09:30 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. JWDeserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 51 17.Expect a cacophony of noise the moment the local football sideare beamed onto the plasma screen. This is your traditional sportspub effort, with generous benched booths, posters of frothingbeer mugs and photographs of footballs finest amphitheatres.Brass lamps and Lech Poznań scarves hang from newly varnishedsurfaces, and even the dominance of Warka sponsored furnishingsfails to cool the bubbling atmosphere. No Sky Sports, but you cancatch English league action on the Canal Plus channel. QOpen12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAXDragon C-1, ul. Zamkowa 3, tel. 061 853 08 19, www.dragon.krzyk.pl. If you meet any shell-shocked expats who looklike they’ve just tumbled out of bed a minute earlier the chancesare you’ll soon find them mumbling something about being ‘dragoned’.That’s local lexicon for getting completely trousered in oneof the best bars in Poz. Frequented by all-night weirdoes Dragonis all reject furniture, steel mesh imbedded into peeling plasterwalls and the bracing smell of spillage and smoke. Artsy films andvisuals come projected onto the walls while stoned dropouts formhuman pyramids on jumble sale sofas. Overlooking the bedlam isa dragons head bursting out from above the bar area. Priceless.QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PJAEWEskulap ul. Przybyszewskiego 39 (Grunwald), tel. 0616658802, www.eskulap.art.pl. A cult venue with something always goingon. There’s plenty of live acts, concerts and DJs entering the fray here,and while it’s not much design wise it gets absolutely chockablockcome weekends with the alternate party crowd.QOpen 21:00 -04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AEXWNEWEstadio Sports Bar & Restaurant F-3, ul. Miełżyńskigo16 (enter from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. 061 855 33 21, www.estadio.com.pl. A big and shiny sports bar with naked brickwalls, black and white finishes and lots of reflective surfaces.It looks pretty good, but a sports bar should be judged onthe sports it broadcasts - here it’s Polish cable only, withSky Sports and Setanta an aberrant fantasy. QOpen12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 06:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat14:00 - 11:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.Fashion Cafe C-2, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. 061 855 75 57,www.fashioncafe.com.pl. This is what happens when someonewith bad taste and pots of money is given license to open aplace. With a flimsy, flashy interior you really have to be a certaintype to drink in this teenie trap. Consider it Vegas on the cheap.QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. PAEWNEWF.B.I Poznan C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 18. FBI to some people, theFinest Bar in Poznan to others. It’s big, black and shiny, and while itlooks like a kick ass cocktail den you can’t help but wonder whereall the people are. It’s empty, disconcertingly so, but use that toyour advantage and test your chat on the Miss Polska bargirls- after all, they’ve nothing better to do than entertain the sleazyovertures of the foreign stud. Numerous bars and restaurantshave tried their luck in this location, all have failed; could this bethe one that breaks the duck? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.NEWFever G-3, Stary Rynek 82, tel. 061 851 80 22, www.fever-club.com. Pay tribute to the days of Roller Girl andTravolta inside this kitschy seventies throwback. They’ve gonefor an orange look, and topped it off with lots of fur trim, hugelights and those funny plastic seats that must have seemedpositively space age when they first rolled off the productionline. The retro fad has gone down a storm with the locals, andempty seats are more the exception than the norm. QOpen12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PTAUXSWPoland in filmFirst there was Schindler’s List, then came RomanPolanski’s The Pianist. After a short lull Poland returnedto the silver screen last year, with Andrzej Wajda’s Oscarnominated Katyn – the heart rending story of the NKVDmassacre of Polish officers during WWII. This year promiseseven more exposure for Poland, with three potentialblockbusters adding Hollywood spin to the nation’srecent history.First off there’s Defiance, a big budget effort starringJames Bond hero Daniel Craig as one of the Bielskibrothers. The story is thus: Polish Jew Tuvia Bielski andhis three brothers flee the invading Nazis and take to theforests, from where they conduct a partisan campaignagainst the German occupiers. Along the way the brotherssave 1,200 Jews and avenge the death of their parents.All the better, the film is based on fact. However, the filmhas been panned in Poland, and the Institute of NationalRemembrance has launched an investigation into thebrothers to ascertain if they were involved in a massacreof 128 Polish villagers in Naliboki. Polish historianshave also levelled allegations that the Bielski brotherswere involved in up to 100 clashes with the Polish HomeArmy, and aided the Red Army in their campaign againstPoland’s underground armed wing. On top of that comesthe revelation that the one surviving brother, Aron, wascharged with deception recently after swindling a fellowHolocaust survivor. But don’t let the truth cloud a goodflick, Defiance finds itself nominated for an Oscar, andat press time had an IMDB rating of 7.5.Next up there’s Valkyrie, a film which tells the story ofColonel Claus von Stauffenberg, the man at the centreof the plot to assassinate Hitler at his Mazurian HQ. Anoble cause and one certainly worthy of remembrance.Why then, have the producers opted for Top Gun TomCruise to play the lead role, American accent et al. Infairness the film is not as bad as one expects, thoughit’s certainly a bit of a missed opportunity. In the wordsof Telegraph reviewer Jenny McCartney, ‘the grippingmechanics of the plot, the scale of what was at stake,and the varied personalities of the plotters are thestuff of high drama, yet Bryan Singer’s film never quiteconvinces as a portrait of Germany at the time. Thedialogue likes to spell out in large letter, for slow learners,the moral necessity of this assassination to redeemGermany’s reputation.’Finally, the Poles themselves have decided to have astab at this film lark, namely with the February releaseof Popieluszko. Rafał Wieczyński’s film tells the storyof Father Jerzy Popieluszko, a captivating characterwho came to public attention in the early 80s for hisfierce anti-communist rhetoric. His close links withSolidarity and Radio Free Europe brought him to theattention of the internal security services, and in1984 they decided to dispense of him altogether. Acar accident was set up to serve this purpose, thoughPopieluszko somehow survived. Six days later hewas abducted, beaten and murdered, and his corpsedumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of over250,000 mourners, and in 1997 the church startedthe process of beatification. Denied the pleasure ofa preview we’ve no idea how Wieczyński will treatthe subject, or even explore unexplained questionssuch as why the security services were so interestedin a priest?Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

54 NIGHTLIFENIGHTLIFE55Fontanna Czekolady C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 9, tel. 061852 67 23, www.fontannaczekolady.pl. The tunnelshapedFontanna looks like it never ends. It does, in fact, usuallythe moment you collide with the full length mirror standingat the end of the bar. There’s a distinctly retro aesthetic herewith the purple sofas, dimmed lighting and chandeliers harkingback to the days of Boogie Nights excess. A good pre-clubstop, affirmed by the presence of the night vamps freshlytouched up for a night on the prowl.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAUXFort Colomb A-3, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. 0601 55 02 35, www.fortcolomb.pl. An old brick fortress-cumpub found in Park Marcinkowskiego. The interior is standard:exposed brick, local radio for music, and it appears popular withlads wearing World Gym t-shirts and practising hard man stares.QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. IEFuego C-2, Stary Rynek 25, tel. 061 851 88 02. Come fora bit of sexual healing inside this salmon pink old town bar. R&Btunes provide the backing sounds, while an interior of stripeychairs, wrought iron and an even a teddy bar perched on the barsteadily fills with young couples on first dates. QOpen 12:00 -01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PJAUBXWHabana C- 2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 853 02 22,www.habanarestaurant.pl. Full of mirrored decoys, paddedsatin walls and extravagant arched windows this place certainlylooks the part. It looks rich and classy, words that can be appliedto the patrons as well. The booze list has clearly been given a lotof thought, and the drinks selection is possibly the best in Poz; wecan recommend the Havana Lady Special, a gorgeous cocktailthat slips down in one gulp. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAWHeadless figuresHead up to Poznań’s Citadel Park to get utterly freakedout over the sight of 112 two metre tall cast iron figuresseemingly making their way zombie-like across the grass.Odd enough you might think, but not half as alarmingas when you notice none of them have heads. Titled‘Nierozpoznani’ (Unrecognized) the batty installation isthe work of local arts graduate Magdalena Abakanowiczand was unveiled to coincide with Poznań’s 750thbirthday celebrations in 2002. We’re unclear what theirrelevance to Poznań is, or for that matter birthdays, andno-one else seems have the answer either. Explanationshave ranged from the intelligent to the downright stupid;some pompous pillocks point out the statues reflectthe empty emotions of modern living, other critics claimtheir purpose is to make individuals confront their innerselves. Abakonwicz herself remains tight lipped over herwork, a sure sign she doesn’t have a clue either and justcame across the idea over a flagon of cider. Find out moreabout the artist on www.abakanowicz.art.pl.DariuszKrakowiakHipokryzja (The Hypocrisy) D-1, ul. Kramarska7, tel. 061 853 32 50, www.hipokryzjapoznan.com.A voluptuous venue where everything comes bathed inrich crimson shades and the dim flicker of tea candles.Smokers get shunted up the stairs on the top floor, in alarge room decked out with dark woods, brass pots andassorted shrubbery, while a great selection of chillouttunes help complete the effortless transition of dayinto night. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.PAUEXJohnny Rocker D-2, ul. Wielka 9, tel. 061 853 6232, www.johnnyrocker.pl. Step into Johnny Rocker andyou’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve inadvertently entereda warehouse, what with all the barrels, pipes, tubes anddials. Worry not, take the metal stairs and follow the noisecoming from the basement and you’ll locate Poznan’s bestworst kept secret. Decked out in neo-industrial fashion thislabyrinthine cellar comes with bits of metal hanging from thewalls, a crow standing behind the bar and posters advertisingavant-garde drum workshops. Add to this a staunchcommitment to rock music and whisky paraphernalia andit’s almost possible to imagine that fella from Guns’n’Roseswalking in with his top hat and snake. Our favourite detail:the blokes toilet, where pictures of women holding tapemeasures stare directly at nervous lads using the urinal.QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. ClosedSun. PAEKamea D-1, ul. Wroniewska 22, tel. 061 851 72 11.A genuine labour of love, this gallery-cum-bar is filled withjazzy sounds, vases of flowers and wooden cupboards.Sink into one of the leather armchairs and admire theartwork hanging from the walls, or choose from one ofthe largest cocktail lists in the city. Often empty, but neverdisappointing.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.PJAEXKisielice B-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. 061 665 84 84, www.kisielice.com. A one in a million haven of individuality, theK Hole is possibly Poznań’s best known bar, and certainlyits best. The crowd comprises of a cross section of socialdropouts, to a man waiting on a book deal, record contractor exam results, while the music policy is completely bonkers;anything obscure will get airtime here. The Warholesqueinterior is the perfect backdrop for the permissive behaviourthat is expected at nightfall, with staff matching customersshot for shot into the daft, murky hours. QOpen 10:00- 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 -02:00. EWKlepsydra D-2, ul. Paderewskiego 11, tel. 061 852 1539. A second-floor bar with a cut-price menu and ghastlydecorations that sit alongside a traditional wood-carvedbar and ceiling paintings of old Poznań. A preponderance ofplantlife hinders the views of old town, forcing patrons to focuson the frequent bouts of karaoke. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,Sat 11:00 - 03:00. PJEXWKlub Galeria Shisha A-3, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. 0500 37 23 72, www.shisha.net.pl. On the Taczakapub crawl route, so find plenty of students zig-zaggingaround this Egyptian-themed haunt. Wall-paintings offalcon-winged gods and pharaohs keep an eye on thefun, with a series of hookah pipes to cloud the evening.Take to the cream leather armchairs to make the mostof the spaced out atmosphere. A great detour to theone dimensional spit and sawdust atmosphere of thenearby beer halls. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun18:00 - 02:00. PWKlub Zak D-1, ul. Szyperska 2, tel. 061 855 34 83,www.klubzak.pl. Book readings, film screenings, artexhibitions, sports screenings and ribald revelry make Zaksomewhat of a winner on Poznań’s student circuit. Bricks,benches and wood are the interior ingredients, and the livemusic includes jazz, blues and folk tunes, all lapped up by acrowds of drinkers lost in the fog of smoke. Traditional pubssports like table football and darts encourage displays of oneupmanship.QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAIEWKultowa C-3, ul. Wrocławska 16, tel. 061 853 43 27,www.kultowa.pl. An urbane pre-club bar aimed at a twentysomething audience. The interior is black and modern, andfinding seats can pose a challenge come the weekend.QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PAEWLizard King C-1, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72,www.lizardking.pl. It’s not unlikely you’ll hear the live bandsfrom the other side of the Rynek - this is rock star heaven,where the cocktails have names like Dylan and Cocker, andthe toilet is accessed by stepping through a cello. Vinyl discsand brass instruments adorn the wall space, while lighting rigshang from the ceilings, ready to beam onto the cover acts whoplay most evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PAEWLobby Bar G-4, Pl. Andersa 3 (Andersia Hotel), tel. 061667 80 00, www.andersiahotel.pl. Relive the glory days ofHasselhoff inside Hotel Andersia’s glitzy ground floor drinkery.Take to one of the swivelly chairs that surround the black marblebar, or else repair to the white poufs lurking in the corners. Filledwith mirrored strips and neon dashes this bar works surprisinglywell, feeling cosmopolitan as opposed to outdated. Clubby tunesget piped from invisible speakers, while a supremely personablebar tender fixes cocktails with all the skill of an alchemist.QOpen 17:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:30. PAUWLondoner Pub C-1, Stary Rynek 90. Our lingering impressionwas the toilet; broken on our visit, and home to anunforgettable sight we would have rather avoided. You learnto expect the unexpected in Londoner, this is after all a barwhere a small hatchway opens into a tourist information point,and decorations include an endless list of useless junk; thefurther you penetrate the more surreal your journey becomes,with gramophones, a model goat and other curios taking up allviable space. Beware the Kilkenny - a horrid brew at the bestof times, but even worse coming out of these taps.QOpen12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JMalibu Bar C-2, ul. Wrocławska 2, tel. 061 852 4586, www.malibubar.pl. Shock white colour schemes havepunters reaching for their shades, and this place is definitelyaimed at the ‘sunglasses at night’ crowd. It takes about tenul. Wielka 961-744 Poznanwww.johnnyrocker.plLISTEN CLASSIC ROCK/POP MUSIC 1959-2009&DANCE THU - SATTRYFEELWarm sounds,soulful, funky, latinoFridays and Saturdayspeople to fill the dance floor, so don’t be surprised to find thelocal Playboy bunnies dancing around the tables - sometimeson them. A couple of back rooms come stuffed with brightorange ottomans, though the overriding impression is one ofstark minimalism. But the really good news here are the cocktails;the AK47 (comprised of vodka, rum, gin, whisky, tequilaand triple sec) could kill a rhino. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAEWMood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www.moodclub.pl. Poznań’s principal shopping street doesn’thave much in the way of boozing options, so it’s no surpriseto find Mood with a monopoly on the good times and latenights. Set down a courtyard this place gets plenty of customduring daylight, but it’s come pumpkin hour that things kickoff in earnest - swing by at the weekend when DJs enter theframe to pep up the crowd.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat12:00 - 02:00. PAEWBEST WHISKEY AT THE BEST PRICEUNIQUE ATMOSPHEREOPEN: Mon – Wed 17:00 – 00:00Thu – Sat 17:00 – 03:00Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

56 NIGHTLIFENIGHTLIFE57International footballBetween them Polish national coach Leo Beenhakker,and head of the Polish FA (PZPN), Grzegorz Lato, havedone a good job of dominating the back pages over thelast couple of months. Grzegorz Lato has rarely beenout of the news since his controversial appointment,and in January a court in Szczecin heard evidence thathis election in October failed to observe the minutiae ofthe voting process. Even if the former Polish internationalsurvives this storm, reports in the newspaper Polskasuggest that representatives of the Ministry of Sportare due to convene to discuss Lato’s future. Lato edgedout the fan and government favourite Zbigniew Boniek inOctober’s flash election, and has so far caused rumbles ofdiscontent for his ongoing feud with national manager, LeoBeenhakker, and his apparent lack of action in the battleagainst domestic corruption. On their part, any moves bythe government to squeeze Lato out of a job will be monitoredclosely by UEFA and FIFA. Back in 2008 football’sinternational authorities came within a whisker of banningPoland from international football, as well as withdrawingPoland’s right to stage Euro 2012, following interference infootballing matters by the Ministry of Sport. Lato’s latestwoes have been compounded with revelations made insport.pl that the PZPN were aware that corruption wasrife in Polish football for years, but failed to take any action.Nonetheless, in spite of the criticism – or maybebecause – the last months have seen a number of highprofile names brought to book over corruption, includinglegendary Poznan forward Piotr Reiss, a former nationalcoach and a Champions League referee.Lato’s nemesis, the Polish national coach Leo Beenhakker,continues to live on borrowed time, with latest pressreports suggesting the wheels have already been set inmotion to find his permanent replacement. Latest speculationsuggests that the Polish FA (PZPN) have alreadysounded out the US based Polish/American coach PiotrNowak with regards the position, though Gregorz Lato,head of the PZPN, has remained tight-lipped on the matterclaiming all that concerns him currently is Poland’s campaignto qualify for the 2010 World Cup. Nowak currentlyserves as assistant coach to the American national side,as well as coach to the Under 23s, and allegedly turneddown the opportunity to manage Poland in the wake ofthe 2006 World Cup debacle.Beenhakker’s position has looked increasingly shakyfollowing the election of Lato to the FA helm, and relationshit rock bottom in December following remarks made bythe Dutchman about PZPN big shot Antoni Piechniczek.In spite of a poor showing in Euro 2008 Beenhakker remainsa popular figure among fans, and the reinvigoratednational side currently look on course to qualify for theWorld Cup in 2010. In spite of being linked to a stringof vacant posts in England Beenhakker has spelt outhis desire to remain in Poland, even if the PZPN opt tosack him. That’s looking increasingly likely, with Lato leftseething after Beenhakker announced in February he wasaccepting the role of Technical Director at Dutch giantsFeyenoord. Beenhakker remains unrepentant, claimingthat moonlighting for Feyenoord doesn’t break the conditionsof his contract with Poland: ‘I can do what I want inmy spare time. There is no signed contract between meand Feyenoord, and I get no money from them’.The national side return to competitive action on March28 away to Northern Ireland. As things stand Poland aresecond in their World Cup qualifying group.Muchos Patatos D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 851 9173, www.muchos.pl. Adobe coloured walls come decoratedwith tile-shard mosaics and as evenings progress a livelystudent crowd squeeze in to party like there’s no manana to abackground of salsa and Latin rhythms, strong shots of tequilaencouraging never-before-attempted dance moves. QOpen18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAPiano Bar C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar ShoppingMall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. The perfect spot to take clients. A clean cream interiorpunctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile drinkscabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergencysurfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are deckedout suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEWPiwnica 21 (The Cellar 21) D-2, ul. Wielka 21, tel.061 852 29 26, www.piwnica21.pl. A vast undergroundbar that is nothing more than your archetypal student beerhall. You’ll occasionally hear jazz performances above thedin, and Piwnica 21 features all the expected extras: stickyfloors, bare bones basic furniture, and some flashing arcademachines. Always a fun night, though don’t go making plans fora bright start the following morning. QOpen 17:00 - 01:30,Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. JEWPod Minogą B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 7922. Formerly Poznan’s premier bar noir, what was once a dogearedlocal legend has since been gentrified and refurbished.The dishevelled decor of yesteryear has disappeared, replacedinstead by a brick bar, naked girders and floorboards that no longersqueak. To their credit the clientele stubbornly persist in honouringthe artistic legacy, with charity shop fashions and roll-up cigarettesglued to their fingers. The music policy is as alternative as ever,but one can’t help but think the glory years have passed.QOpen12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 09:00. PAPost Dali B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. 061 855 21 03,www.postdali.pl. Open till late, very late, Post Dali is thefinal word in Poznań by night, and frequently the undoing ofthose who visit; our notes from our visit being little more thanscribbles that suggest a good time was had. There’s a fewpoints to set it aside from the competition, the first beingit’s sky high location - find it occupying a chunk of the tenthand eleventh floors of a Poznań office block, with views thatstretch across the city. House and Electro sounds keep theparty going till memory fades, with a committed crowd lappingup the mayhem that ensues. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat16:00 - 05:00. PEWProletaryat D-2, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. 061 852 4858/0 508 17 36 08, www.proletaryat.pl. Who caresthat Stalin was umpteen times the villain that Hitler ever was,this commie-themed bar is an essential stop-off for any pubcrawler. Socialist paradise this most certainly is, with portraitsof Soviet leaders aplenty, and an even a bust of Lenin peeringfrom the window. Drink quality local brews while Russkiemarching bands strike up from the speakers, and peruse themanifestos and cold war keepsakes lined up along the walls.QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. PJAXPuzon C-2, Stary Rynek 9/10, tel. 061 851 05 40. FindPoznań’s jazz fans slumming it inside a grubby space thattransforms as night draws in. During daylight hours this placeassumes the look of a bare college common room, completewith tatty posters and tables scattered at random. Onceevening settles Puzon takes on a pleasing red tint as tablesfill with students aspiring to musical greatness.QOpen09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JXQube Vodka Bar and Cafe E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9(Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. Qube is the lobby bar of the Sheraton,and the perfect primer for pre-restaurant cocktails or whilecounting down the minutes before Someplace Else opens. Thestaff are top drawer, proved by the creation of the best mojitowe’ve found in town, while the low bar side seats refuse to letyou leave until you’ve tried one too many of their lethal vodkas.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAUWRoom 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 3224, www.room55.pl. On the ground floor find a decent barwhere the business world meet for after work drinks, as wellas an overpriced menu presented by scurrying blondes. Headdownstairs to see where the crowd moves when it gets to thebusiness end of the night. Find a long cellar bar with woodenbarrels to park yourself on, and enough space to impress withyour dance trickery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 -02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAUBWSami Swoi C-2, Stary Rynek 99/100, tel. 061 85521 65, www.samiswoi-klub.com. From the outside SamiSwoi appears to be a traditional restaurant, filled with stripeywallpaper, oil paintings and other prim touches. And while youcan eat here this place packs out primarily with a young, noisycrowd looking to drink into the next day. Don’t be startled tohear the local karaoke kings doing their party pieces. QOpen10:00 - 05:00. PJAWSarp D-2, Stary Rynek 56, tel. 061 853 24 64, www.sarp-klub.pl. Entering Sarp is like walking into a migraine.Everything here is orange, plastic and flimsy, and the staffdon’t do much to inspire repeat visits - asking what goes intoa White Russian is bad enough, using UVH milk to then make itan error of schoolboy proportions. On the plus side they openlate and serve beer, at times that’s all you need.Q Open16:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. From April Open11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-03:00. AEShark C-1, Stary Rynek 48, tel. 061 851 94 80, www.shark.ecom.net.pl. A chic designer space with a sparkling bar that wondrouslyseems to spread from floor to ceiling. Find sexy bedroommusic, stick thin girls and salmon walls inside this smashig splitlevel venue. Beauty police work the door, so dress accordingly.QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. JAWSomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (SheratonPoznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. The quintessential expat bar and a lifeline to yourparallel life abroad. The layout here is simple, diner décorfeaturing all the Route 66 extras and rock’n’roll pics. Settingit aside are Sky Sports, Poznań’s best burger and a line upof live music acts that lead the party to its inevitably blurryconclusion. Blame your amnesia on the bar staff, some of thebest in the business, and while SPE is not a cheap night atrip here is just the medicine if you’ve had one of those dayswhere you’re tempted to book the next ticket out of Poland.QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 -02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEXWThe Dubliner A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrancefrom Al. Niepodległości), tel. 061 851 01 69, www.dubliner.com.pl. Possibly the largest pub in town, certainlythe emptiest. Accommodated inside the basement of theZamek building The Dubliner features stained glass windows,a model train circling above the bar and wall specially paintedto feign years of tobacco smoke. This is a clinical attemptto bring Ireland to Poland, and one that fails to capture theintimacy and buzz of their rival Celt pub, Brogan’s.QOpen12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAE50% discount upon showingstudent license on ThursdayLook for this stampon the SomePlace Else menuWatch all sport events on 6 LCDsand the biggest screen in PoznanSomePlace ElseBukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznan, Tel. 061 655 2000gss.poznan@sheraton.comOpen daily from 5pm, on Sundays from 12:00(enter through the main door of Sheraton)Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

58 NIGHTLIFENIGHTLIFE59The Fire Place Lounge E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9(Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. A tiny side room of the Sheratonhouses this gem, where curvy seating is complimentedby violet dashes, mirrors and dark polished woods.It’s completely luxurious, and the presence of a roaringfireplace makes it highly tempting to open a bookand forget any looming appointments. QOpen 09:00- 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.PAUSWU Honzika B-3, ul. Taczaka 21, tel. 0 504 03 72 19,www.honzik.pl. If you’re going to drink in the studentghetto then do so in here. What looks like a seedy basementbar is actually one of the finest places in the world - acracking Czech pub with smoke stained walls and plenty offootball paraphernalia. There’s Zlatopramen lager on tap,though real drinkers are going to look in the fridge - filledto bursting with hard-to-find brews hailing from Lithuaniaand the Ukraine. Either stand shoulder to shoulder withthe students at the bar, or penetrate the back room tosit on rough-cut wooden stools.QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.Closed Sun. PXWhisky Bar C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel.061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. A subterraneantunnel shaped bar, boasting what is apparently the largestcollection of whisky in the country. Found inside the guts ofthe Dom Vikingów complex Whisky Bar comes replete withpolished wooden fittings, and staff who can confidentlytalk you through the enormous choice of drinks. QOpen21:00 - 03:00, Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,Sun. PAEWW Starym Kinie (In The Old Cinema) B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego8, tel. 061 852 22 41, www.wstarymkinie.pl.Out front pub poets and film buffs sit within plum colouredwalls, eyeing decorations that include film reels, projectorsand cinema seats. Any overspill gets lumped in the powderblue back room, where only a few token posters cheer upa rather lonely looking space. Regular screenings of cultclassics attract a crowd of budding film critics. QOpen10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00,Sun 18:00 - 02:00. AEWZa Kulisami (Behind The Backstage) D-2, ul. Wodna24, tel. 061 853 23 97. Embedded in local folklore, ZaKulisami is a drinking institution. The scraps of faded paperbehind the bar are travelers notes from the days beforeSkype - remember them - and the shelves groan under theweight of broken-spined books and Paddington Bear stylesuitcases. Inside the gloom and plumes of smoke a crowdof all extractions congregate to drink amid cow skins andempty birdcages. This is drinking the way the gods wouldhave wanted. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00,Sun 18:00 - 01:00. JCuba Libre C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. 061 852 3157, www.cuba-libre.pl. Set down a shadowy courtyardbasement the newly expanded Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latinvenue replete with the requisite pics of Che, as well as cheerfulorange lighting casting down on the crowd. The disco Latinonights on Friday and Saturday prove seriously popular, thoughif you’ve got two left feet then consider attending one of theirsalsa and samba classes held earlier in the week.QOpen20:00 - 03:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00, Sat20:00 - 06:00. PEWCute H-3, ul. Wielka 27/29, tel. 061 851 91 37, www.cute.poznan.pl. Found inside the guts of an old town cellarCute plays the best nu-house sounds in Poznań, which tothe rank and prole translates as dance tracks that are waytoo cool to chart. Watch the hourglass figures take to thedance floor while reclining from the safety of the red leatherottomans and sofas. Strange shapes and sounds aplenty,adding to the feeling that the pills are about to hit. QOpen20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.PJAECzarna Owca C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. 0 502 2877 55, www.czarnaowca.com.pl. A local institution.Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hotlabyrinthine club. Music is usually no more challenging thanchart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ’s,and the crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down theirgobhole.QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.PJAUXDV Club C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel. 061852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. An upmarket cellar barbeneath Dom Vikingów, where monied expats try their falteringPolish on local blondynkas. A spotless wooden interior isinterspersed with token rustic junk and a unicycle nailed tothe wall. As the flashing disco light suggests, you’ll find DJsentering the fray each weekend.QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PJAEWEmforiu D-1, ul. Kramarska 18, tel. 060 179 45 58,www.emforiu.pl. Although it helps to have pneumaticbreasts and an expensive wardrobe Poznań’s latest headlinegrabber is open to all; from local big shots to students poolingtheir coins together for a lager. A glowing dance floor pulsateswith rainbow lights while local DJs serve up a feast of housenoise to the mass of wriggling bodies. It’s a clever set uphere, with plenty of red vinyl, stark hospital white coloursand revolving disco balls creating a great backdrop for theweekend excess that awaits. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. ClosedMon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PWIQ C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 851 06 22, www.iqclub.pl. A grubby, tunnel-like cellar club that grabs theattention with a poster outside advertising two zloty beer.Equipped with a reddish glow and a smoky mist this placewakes up each weekend, when some of the biggest names inPoland show up to play electro, trance and oldskool hardcore.Don’t bother dressing up, hooded tops are worn like signsof courage.QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.Closed Sun. JEKlub Charyzma D-2, ul. Ślusarska 6, tel. 061 851 7948, www.charyzma.poznan.pl. It’s all a bit Planet of theApes in Charyzma, a big, brash venue where local lads headto see whose nuts dangle lowest as they bid to impress thelocal talent. The design is concrete and steel - with the occasionalmannequin sticking out of an air vent - and the musicis limited to commercial dance tracks. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00,Wed 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEWPoznań ModelPoznań Model (Makieta Poznania) C-2, ul.Franciszkańska 2 (basement of the FranciscanChurch, entrance from Ludgarda Street), tel. 061855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. A huge modelthat shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s picture sketched in 1618. Constructedover a period of six years the model takes up a spaceof 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorativedetails are impressive, and you can expect lots ofkids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling upthe school seats around it as they wait for the show tobegin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary beginsand visitors are taken through the area-by-area story ofPoznań’s development. Foreigners get given headsets tolisten to heavily accented commentary in the languageof their choice, though this is at times drowned outby hilarious background noise that includes medievalsoldiers screaming in agony. Great fun that shouldn’t bemissed. Q Shows last 30 minutes and start every 45minutes between 09:30 and 17:00. From June 1 Open09:30-19:15. and by prior arrangement. Admission 12zł,groups over 20 people 9zł per person.ClubsNEWBee D-2, ul. Wielka 18, tel. 0 507 06 80 84, www.beeclub.pl. A great looking bar which morphs into a clubthe moment the calendar flicks to Friday. Honey colours androunded circular shapes lend a mildly retro tone, and the seatsare among the most comfortable in town; enjoy them whileyou can, it’s odds on they’ll be scarred with lager stains andcigarette burns by the time the year is out. House, funk andlounge sounds fit into the background, while an over 21 doorpolicy does the job of freezing the riff raff out. QOpen 11:30 -24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAXWPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

60 NIGHTLIFEWHAT TO SEE61DISCOVER A WARM PLACE OF POSITIVE VIBES IN POZNANOpen: Tue-Sat 19.00-3.00, Sun 22.00-6.00Reservation: (061)8515151, 0502273225Poznan, Sw. Marcin 28www.metropolitanclub.plwww.wix.com/metropolitanclub/re-aktywacjametropolitanclub@gmail.comMetropolitan Club B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel. 061851 51 51, www.metropolitanclub.pl. Give your latestdance waggles their debut in Metropolitan, a dazzling clubspace with lots of violet vanilla dashes, swooping beams oflight and razor clawed platinum pussycats on display. Themanagement have gone for the scattergun approach, withdifferent days bringing in different sounds - Tuesday - hiphop;Wednesday - live music, cinema; Thursday - studentsparty; Friday, Saturday - 60s to 00 party; Sunday - afterparty.QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PASansibar D-2, ul. Wodna 12, tel. 0 694 41 30 72, www.sansibar.pl. Another student drinking dungeon in whichpatrons shout, scream and gesticulate over the din of discohits of yesteryear. Dark, cramped and noisy the overall effectisn’t unlike sitting in a cupboard with the Village People.QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.PJAEUFOsWielkopolska is something of a hotspot for the paranormal,and it’s not just the ghosts we’ve warned you aboutthat go bump in the night. The district has also earned abit of a reputation for UFOs (or NOLs as they are called inPoland). To date the most infamous case can be trackedto 2001 when a 20 year old woman happened upon analien near Sieraków Lake. The 1.5 metre tall mantis-likeextra-terrestrial allegedly stared emotionlessly into theeyes of the startled female before beating a speedyretreat into the surrounding cornfields. Small footprintswere found the following day at the site, though effortsto later identify them drew a blank. Most recently reportsof aerial weirdness have been filed in the region of LakeMalta, as well as Jeżyce Forest. Świerkowski claims that95% of such claims can be put down to changes in atmospherethat mankind simply hasn’t discovered yet, thoughthe other 5% of sightings remain an utter mystery. Realenthusiasts though will head nowhere else but Wylatowo,a small rural village situated halfway between Toruń andPoznań. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shapedobject was photographed floating in the skies last year,with lab tests since confirming that there were no cameratricks or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’snot the only peculiar happening; since 2000 when cropcircles first started appearing in the neighbouring fieldsWylatowo has established itself as a mecca for Polskiufologists, While some claim the circles are the work ofsavvy farmers looking to make a quick buck X-Files styleinvestigations have yet to determine the cause of thisannual summer phenomena.Monday - private partiesTueasday - Hip-hopWednesday - live concerts, movie eveningsThursday - Student Party, DJ LIVEFriday/Saturday - clubbing, DJ LIVESunday - AFTER PARTYFor everyone over 21- safe, comfortable ambiance- great drinks, reasonably priced- best music of the 60s to todaySQ C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. 061 859 65 78, www.sqklub.pl.Poznan’s most famous club, and packed with enoughpin-up girls to have your head spinning like a periscope. Anexpensive wardrobe and silly haircut are essential, and whilethe design is nothing special the nights here most certainlyare. DJs arrive from across Poland to play here, sometimeseven further, and it’s certainly the premier place in town topuff the chest out and strut about like a big time Bertie. Findit in the basement of the Stary Browar shopping centre.QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,Tue, Sun. PAETapas D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32, www.tapas.pl. A design masterstroke, the hi-tech interior isquite unlike anything Poznań has seen before. Full ofglass flooring, shimmery baubles and mosaic surfacesthe Tapas Club is a futuristic space, and decorated withsuggestive scarlet and granite black colours. Also, a ropedoff VIP section as well as staff capable of creating the rightcocktails for the right moment. House music every Friday,and tracks from the 60s, 70s and 80s on Saturday’s.QOpen , Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,Thu, Sun. PJATerytorium D-1, ul. Mokra 7, tel. 061 853 02 92,www.klubterytorium.pl. Drink lukewarm beer alongsideyouths with fake ID in what is too all intents and purposesa glorified school disco. Come weekends the cobbledflooring and vast bar area become the fiefdom of off-dutystudents, and the toilets the territory of sozzled lads philosophizingon the girls outside.QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.Closed Sun. PAITokyo Underground C-2, ul. Wrocławska 23, tel.0601 70 22 40, www.tokyo-underground.pl. To callthe design minimal would be an understatement. There’sa couple of signs from the Tokyo Underground and that’sabout it; the rest of this place is London grey with a fewexposed pipes and brick walls on show. Fortunately themusic is cracking, with great electro sets played to acommitted crowd of local hedonists. Sod the design,this looks set to become one of the liveliest nights inthe calendar. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.PAEPost-pub soakage?Kebabs, Burgers, Lager and VomitQuick Eats on page 34Essential PoznańPart of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly wandering thenetwork of streets and alleyways, making chance discoveriesfrom one turn to the next. That said there are a number ofmust-see sights that should not be left to chance. Yournatural start point should by the main square, the gloriousRynek. Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (C-2,Stary Rynek 1). Today it houses the Historical Museumof Poznań. Other museums you’ll find in the square includethe Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (D-2, StaryRynek 84), which honours one of Poland’s best knownauthors, the Musical Instruments Museum (D-2, StaryRynek 45-47), the Military Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 9),and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (C-2, Stary Rynek3) which chronicles the 1918 Uprising.Other museums of note in the city include the excellentArcheological Museum (D-2, ul. Wodna 27) whosecollection includes Egyptian mummies and obelisksand charts life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland.Art fans should head to the National Museum (C-2, al.Marcinkowskiego 9), and don’t miss a visit to the PoznańModel (C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2).Churches are omnipresent, no more so than on OstrówTumski. The island is dominated by the Cathedral (OstrówTumski 17) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. Trekback to the old town though to find Poznań’s most impressivechurch: that of St Stanislaus (C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1).Poznań was also affected deeply by the war, and a visit tothe former Gestapo penal camp (Wielkopolska MartyrsMuseum, Al. Polska) is a disturbing daytrip. Hardly moreuplifting is the Poznań Army Museum (G-1, Poznań Citadel),which aside from boasting displays of modern militaryhardware documents the defence of Poznań in 1939.The SynagogueAmazingly, whatwas once theprincipal synagoguein towncan still be visited,albeit in arather differentcapacity thanoriginally intended.Consecratedon September 5, 1907 the New Synagogue on ul.Wroniecka was a lavish structure designed by Berlinarchitects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one millionmarks (to put things in perspective, the cost ofthe Imperial Castle came to five million). Holding 1,200worshippers (600 men, 600 women) it was financedby the Jewish superrich and included a copper-plateddome and a floor plan based on the Greek cross. Followingthe outbreak of WWII the building was commandeeredby the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimmingpool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers.Although returned to the Jewish community in 2002it still functions as a municipal pool – leading somewags to re-christen it the ‘swimagogue’. Of late planshave been mooted to convert it into a communitycentre complete with prayer halls, a kosher restaurantand conference facilities. Delaying the developmentis the problem of raising US$50 million, so for thetime being at least, bring your swimming togs if youfancy a look round.Essential PoznanOld Town Hall(Ratusz) C-2, StaryRynek 1, tel. 061856 81 91, www.mnp.art.pl. Firstbuilt at the beginningof the 14th century,the seat of Poznań’smunicipal authoritieswas rebuilt followingthe great fire of1536. Italian architect,Giovanni Quadroof Lugano, was commissionedto overseethe reconstruction,and a renaissanceloggia and attic wereadded, offset by aclassical tower. Oncerevered as the mostbeautiful buildingnorth of the Alps, thetown hall has been beset by a catalogue of disasters. A firein 1675, a hurricane in 1725 and then bomb damage duringWWII mean that little of the original structure remains. Theoldest surviving parts are the cellars with their early-Gothiccross-vaulted ceilings. Today it houses the Historical Museumof Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the GreatEntrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supportedby two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible,astrology and figures from mythology. The crowds you’ll seegathering outside the building at noon are waiting for the twomechanical billy goats to emerge. On Sundays and holidays,a bugle call also comes from the tower; legend has it thata town-hall bugler took care of the King of Ravens, and inreturn the birds helped to save the city during a siege. Directlyoutside the town hall is a whipping post, dating from 1535. Itwas here that miscreants werewhipped, executed or led to thecity boundaries before beingbanished from Poznań. Thefigure standing on top depictsthe executioner of Poznań, andfunds for the statue were raisedfrom fines levied on maids whowould dress above their station.QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00- 18:00. Closed Mon. Lastentrance 30 minutes beforePilloryA. WebberTown hallLena Wachackaclosing. Admission 5.50/3.50zł,Sat free.Ostrów Tumski This island is where the city originatedand ‘where Poland began’ according to Pope John Paul II.Legend has it that three Slav brothers called Lech, Czechand Rus met at this island having not seen each other foryears. The city was named to commemorate their reunion,poznać being Polish for ‘to meet’. A castle was built on theisland in the 9th century, and by the 10th century it hadbecome a major centre of the Piast state. This is the spotwhere Poland adopted Catholic baptism and where the firstbishopric was established in 968. Mieszko I and BolesławChrobry, the founders of the Polish state, are buried in thecathedral. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortificationsare still visible on the Cybina riverside.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

62 WHAT TO SEEWHAT TO SEE63The Castle (Zamek)A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82,tel. 061 646 52 76, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Constructionon Poznań’s fearsomecastle began in 1905, with thekeys officially handed over toKaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Designedby Franz Schwechtenthe building was built following neo-Roman aesthetic with livingquarters for the Kaiser located in the west wing, and the throneroom in the east. The small park and rose garden in the back wasinspired by the Lion’s Courtyard in the Alhambra. Between thewars it became the seat of Poznań University though Poznań’sincorporation into the Third Reich saw sweeping changes. AlbertSpeer, Hitler’s pet architect set to work transforming the castle,with a view of turning the tower chapel into the Fuhrer’s office,and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazigovernor of the Warthegau district). By 1944 renovation workhad finished, with all the original interiors completely remodelled.The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation andthere was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed.In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducingthe principal tower to a third of its original height. Used by theuniversity in the two years following the war, and then as theseat of local government, the castle building has operated as acultural centre since 1962. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.Admission depending on repertoire.The Old Town Square (StaryRynek) C/D-1/2, . The Old TownSquare was the centre of old Poznań,and to this day is rich in historicarchitecture, museums and restaurants.Around 60 per cent of theold town was flattened during WWII,though most of the houses weremeticulously rebuilt in the 1950sfollowing Baroque and Renaissancestyles. Aside from the two concretecarbuncles planted needlessly in themiddle, the town square remains one of the most picturesquein Central Europe. Behind the town hall lies the City Scalesbuilding that once housed the hardware for weighing merchandiseon its way to the market.Keep your eyes peeled for several interesting buildings thatrim the Rynek:Stary Rynek 43 - Poznań’s oldest chemist, Under the WhiteEagle has been operating since 1564.Stary Rynek 48 - Originally built in the 12th century thehouse boasts the oldest gothic cellars in the city. Duringthe 16th century it was residence of town mayor KacperGoski. Author of Plague in the Air, Goski also dabbled inastrology. His unlikely, but ultimately accurate, predictionof the Turkish defeat at the Battle of Lepanto immortalizedhim across Europe.Stary Rynek 50 - Worth noting for its gothic façade and thesmall portico over the doorway. During a bawdy drinking boutKing August II of Saxony tumbled outof the window; the roof broke his falland saved his life. Nearby a tabletmarks the level that floodwatersreached in 1736.Stary Rynek 52 - Once owned byMikołaj Ridt, the trader was apparentlyturned into a werewolf after afoul-mouthed outburst directed at aneighbouring convent. Following wardamage the house was rebuilt in 1945in renaissance style.ChurchesCathedral I-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. 061 852 96 42,www.katedra.archpoznan.org.pl. Poland’s first bishopricwas established in Poz in 968AD, and from 1138-1295Poznań briefly operated as the home of Poland’s Royal Court.The oldest point of interest is Ostrów Tumski, and thoughnothing remains of the 9th century fortress that once stoodhere the cathedral, Poland’s first, is open to visitors. Thecathedral has had a tough time, destroyed and remodelednumerous times, though the crypt has survived the vicissitudesof time and contains the bodies of Poland’s firstrulers - Mieszko I and Bolesław the Great. A Romanesquecathedral was built on the spot in the 12th century and aGothic structure went up in 1356-1410; in 1772 it receivedLate Baroque additions and classicist façade. Burnt downin 1945, it was reconstructed in 1946-1955 in the Gothicstyle. The oldest remains are in the cathedral crypt, whereyou can see sections of excavated walls that date back tothe founding of Poland. St. Stanislaus’ Chapel features anepitaph by sculptor Marian Konieczny; each November 1 aspecial mass in the chapel celebrates the souls of the kingsand princes buried here. The Chapel of the Holy Sacramenthouses several outstanding examples of Renaissance sculpture,including the multilevel tomb of the Gorka family. St.Martin’s Chapel houses a painting by Poznań artist KrzysztofBoguszewski of the saint entering Amiens. QOpen 09:00- 18:00. No visiting during mass please.Corpus Christi Church (Kościół Bożego Ciała)H-4, ul. Strzelecka 40, tel. 061 852 32 00, www.bozecialo.poznan.pl. A strange legend attaches to thechurch, involving the theft and unsavoury use of threethree communion wafers. The unfortunate wafers werelater found on the common, and King Władysław Jagiełłohad the Gothic Church of Corpus Christi erected on thespot. Construction ended in 1470 and renovations wereadded during the Baroque period. The Gothic elevationsand Baroque gable and tower are preserved in their originalstate. Points of interest include paintings of King Jagiełłoand Queen Hedwig from 1685, the high altar designed byPompeo Ferrari, and the Baroque Chapel of the Virgin Mary.To this day, Corpus Christi processions are remarkablycolourful and impressive, with the local houses brightlydecorated and women and girls wearing Bamberg costumes.Q Open during mass only.Dominican Church (Kościół Dominikański) A-1, Al.Niepodległości 20, tel. 061 852 31 34, www.poznan.dominikanie.pl. Built in the 13th century, this church waslater given a Baroque interior, tower and gables. The stallsfeature sculpted mannerist scenes from the legends of SaintsDominic and Hyacinth. The Late Gothic Rosary Chapel datesto the early 16th century and features a stellar vault andneo-Gothic furnishings. In the small courtyard outside thepresbytery you`ll find the entrance to the Jesuit Gallery, whereyou can see the mannerist interiors of the library, cloister andChapel of St. Hyacinth. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. No visitingduring mass please.Franciscan Church(Koś ciół Franciszkanów)C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2,tel. 061 852 36 37, www.ofmconv.opoka.org.pl/poznan. Erected 1674-1728.Hidden behind the bland exterioris a riot of baroque decoration,with carved wood,stucco and paintings by localmonk Adam Swach. His brother,Antoni, designed the highaltar and ornamented stalls.Lavish decorations aside,visitors flock to the church tosee the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous pictureof the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Ladyof Poznań, for 300 years. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.Parish Church of St. Stanislaus (Kościół FarnyŚw. Stanisława Biskupa) C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel.061 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.org.pl. One ofPoznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the ParishChurch of St. Stanislaus was created as a Jesuit temple in the17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s whoof Roman Baroque artists. The striking interior is 55 metreslong, 35 metres wide and 27 metres high, with huge columnsproviding dramatic light-and-shade effects. Fine specimensof Baroque ornamentation can be fond in the chapels of theHoly Cross, which features a 16th-century crucifix, and theVirgin Mary, which has a precious copy of the painting of TheMother of God of Incessant Help. Every Saturday at 12:15,the church hosts an organ concert played on an instrumentdating to 1876. QOpen 06:00 - 19:30. No visiting duringmass please.St. Adalbert`s Church (Kościół Św. Wojciecha)G-3, ul. Św. Wojciecha 11, tel. 061 852 69 85. This small,uniquely-shaped Gothic building was constructed in the early15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfryand Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothicrelief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the otheraltars are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska,the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words ofthe Polish national anthem, and the urn containing GeneralJan Henryk Dąbrowski`s heart. The church also contains thesarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor andsocial activist. Every Christmas, visitors come to see thenativity scene with its mechanical figures of Polish kings,scholars, artists and other national heroes. Q Open byprior arrangement.St. Francis of Assissi Church (Kościół Św. Franciszkaz Asyżu) D-3, ul. Garbary 22, tel. 061 851 2600, www.franciszkanie.net. This church was built in the late17th century on a spot chosen according to the principles ofBaroque town planning. Its two-towered façade, designedby Jan Adam Stier and decorated with figures of saints, wasadded in the early 18th century. The original furnishings anddecorations were destroyed in the war and replaced withreplicas. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00.St. John of Jerusalem Church (Kościół Św. JanaJerozolimskiego) J-3, ul. Świetojańska 1, tel. 061 877 1717. The oldest standing church in Poznań and the city’s secondoldestbuilding after the Cathedral. It was built for the Knights ofMalta at the turn of the 12th century in the Romanesque style,with the nave and presbytery in a Venedic arrangement. Aftera fire in 1512 a star-vaulted ceiling was built over the nave anda nave and tower were added to the north side. Age aside, thebuilding’s main draw is a rare Late Gothic painted triptych fromthe early 16th century. Q Open 07:00-08:00, 17:45-19:00.St. Joseph`s Church (Kościół Św. Józefa) G-2, ul.Działowa 25 (St. Wojciech Hill), tel. 061 852 92 93,www.karmelici.info. Opposite St. Adalbert’s Church you’llfind St. Joseph’s, a Carmelite church whose late 17th centurydesign typifies the Wielkopolska Baroque style. It houses thegrave of Mikolaj Skrzetuski, who defended the town of Zbarażagainst the Tartars and Cossacks in 1649 and inspired themain character in Henryk Sienkiewicz’s novel, With Fire andSword. Q Open by prior arrangement.St. Martin`s Church (Kościół Św. Marcina) C-2/3, ul.Św. Marcin 13, tel. 061 852 32 63, www.marcinpoznan.hg.pl. First mention of a church standing on the site dates from1252 though it owes its current Gothic look from the 16th century.Although this was Poznań’s most damaged church in WWII itsinterior is still a sight to behold. The wooden Gothic sculpture of theMadonna in the nave dates back to 1510, and the Gothic Silesianaltar triptych is from 1498. Don’t miss the grotto that stands outsidethe church, built in 1911 after the vicar Tadeusz Wierbiński wasmiraculously cured of blindness by the healing waters of Lourdes.The grotto was built in thanks, and features a garden gnome likefigure kneeling in front of Jesus. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. ClosedSat, Sun. No visiting during mass please.Jewish PoznanThe history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first daysof the city though like so many other towns in Central andEastern Europe this heritage was all but extinguishedwith the horrors that came with Hitler’s rise. The Nazi’swere meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritageand today traces of it are few and far between. The early19th century cemetery on ul. Głogowska was destroyedby the Nazis, the tombstones used to pave roads,and the area found itself incorporated into the TradeFair grounds after the war. A special dispensation wasgranted to exhume hundreds of bodies, and today you’llfind them buried in the municipal cemetery in Miłostowo.However in recent times steps have been taken tocommemorate the existence of the former graveyard,and in November of last year a memorial plaque wasunveiled on ul. Głogowska 26a. Most recently, on June3, 2008, a ceremony took place to unveil an ohel markingthe hitherto unmarked grave of Rabbi Akiva Eiger,commonly accepted as being Poznań’s greatest everRabbi. Previously used as a parking lot, the site of hisgrave has now been turned into a grassy square, andhas also been renamed to honour his memory. The fateof the Jews who perished in the stadium labour campis commemorated by a memorial which stands by theMultikino, and Poznań’s only functioning prayer housecan be visited on ul. Stawna 10.www.inyourpocket.comPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

64 WHAT TO SEEWHAT TO SEE65The Great EscapeFound some 150km southwest of Poznań, the town ofZagan was the site of one of the most celebrated prisonbreakouts of all time. Immortalised in the 1963 Hollywoodblockbuster, The Great Escape, the daring break fromthe Nazi prisoner-of-war camp Stalag Luft III has sincebeen ingrained into English and Commonwealth culture.Opened in 1942 outside the German town of Sagan (nowPolish Zagan), the camp was designed to hold thousandsof captured allied airmen, including the most persistentescapees inside the Reich’s network of prisons. Undeterredby tight security a hardcore band of 250 POWs, ledby Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, planned to tunnel outof the complex before setting off independently for neutralterritory. Even though the chances of success were slim,Bushell hoped that the very notion of 250 allied airmenloose inside the Third Reich would be enough to createan internal security headache, hence diverting importantNazi military resources.Having assembled a team of forgers, craftsmen, tailorsand engineers Bushell’s ‘escape committee’ spentmonths building a trio of tunnels, all the time avertingdetection in what was to become a game of cat andmouse with the camp guards. Using improvised materialsas diverse as tables, water cans and spoons, the tunnelswere a triumph of ingenuity. Displaying a meticulous attentionto detail, Bushell and his cabal ensured escapeeswere provided with civilian clothes, forged papers, currencyand maps. Around 200 tonnes of sand and earthwere excavated, then carefully deposited in the exerciseyards by POWs with long bags hidden inside their trouserlegs, or inside the two other storage tunnels.The tunnel was completed on March 24/25, 1944, butunexpected air-raids and tunnel cave-ins allowed only 76men to make it through before camp guards uncoveredthe escape.Those who did make it through set off on foot or by rail,though poor directions and pitch darkness meant manyescapees hoping to catch trains couldn’t find the stationuntil daybreak - by which time the dye had been cast. Intotal only two Norwegians and one Dutchman made it toEngland. Of the rest of the escapees, 50 were executed,17 were returned to Sagan, four were sent to Sachenhausenand two were delivered to Colditz.In PoznańFollowing cremation, the ashes of the executed men wereburied in the local cemetery - these were later moved tothe Old Garrison Cemetery in Poznan. To visit the gravesenter the cemetery at al. Niepodległości; turn right andyou’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of themurdered. A particular name to look for is that of RogerBushell, the driving force behind the escape.In ŻaganThe site of the original camp was until recently little morethan overgrown scrub. Thanks to the work of diehardhistorians and RAF personnel Hut 104 – the barracksfrom which the escape was hatched – has been fullyrecreated to serve as a living memorial to those whotook part. Further plans include rebuilding part of thetunnel. Other points of interest include original washbasins and several foundations that can be found lyingamong the weeds and foliage. For more info check outwww.thegreatescapememorialproject.com. Buses andtrains run daily from Poznań, though with journey timeweighing in at between 4 and 6 hours a day trip is afar fetched idea.MuseumsApplied Arts Museum (Muzeum SztukUżytkowych) C-1, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. 061 85220 35, www.mnp.art.pl. Housed in what was formerly theRoyal Castle of Poznań the route consists of three floors, thecellars being dedicated to temporary exhibits. Permanentexhibits include craftwork dating to medieval times, as wellas clothing, furniture, glass and clocks, with an emphasis ondecorations formerly housed in castles, palaces and othermoneybag domains. While most hail from European shores,a few of the displays are as from as far as Japan. Of note area lion-shaped vessel to wash princely hands that dates from18th century Saxony, as well as glass decanter produced in1813 picturing a pre-Bomber Harris Dresden. QOpen 09:00- 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. ClosedMon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free.Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne)I-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. 061 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Arts and crafts, paintings, sculpturesand antiques. The oldest exhibits date from the 12th century.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.Admission 6/4zł.Archeological Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)D-2, ul. Wodna 27, (Pałac Górków), tel. 061 852 82 51,www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Ever wanted to see the Egyptianmummy of a woman called Hat? Then step right in. Poznań’sArchaelogy Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rareand mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt andprehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes youthrough the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sizedfigures as well as miniature-sized dioramas depicting lifefrom the Older Stone Age to the Iron Age. It’s here you’ll findeverything from flints and urns to models of hairy men holdingaloft dead rabbits. The other permanent exhibit, Death andLife in Ancient Egypt, features 120 rare pieces - of note arethe granite obelisk of Rameses II the stands in the courtyardoutside, and the granite statue of the lion-headed god Sachmet.The section on death presents colourful coffins, guidesto the afterlife titled ‘Book of what is on the other side’ andthe mummified remains of Hat, a boy called Padiseb andsacred animals including two cats, a falcon and a crocodile.QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. Guided tours by priorarrangement 20zł. Audio guides avaliable in English for 12złper person.Atelier of Józef Ignacy Kraszewski (PracowniaJózefa Ignacego Kraszewskiego) D-1, ul. Wroniecka14, tel. 061 855 12 44. Original manuscripts, over 200rare first-editions and assorted writing equipment that oncebelonged to the author of Stara Baśń (Old Legend), a fancifulaccount of Polish prehistory. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. ClosedSat, Sun. Admission free.Environment Museum (Muzeum Wiedzy oŚrodowisku) E-3, ul. Bukowska 19, tel. 061 847 5601, www.zbsril.poznan.pl. Displays of stuffed and mountedPolish animals with accounts of their living habits, and informationon indigenous plants. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. ClosedSat. Admission free.Historical Museum of Poznań (Muzeum HistoriiMiasta Poznania) C-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 852 5613, www.mnp.art.pl. The show-stealing Town Hall proves afitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars- originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back tothe earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On theground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibitscovering the city’s urban and economic development duringthat time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall onthe first floor hold the most valuable documents and artifacts,and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffins, lions andeagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibitsinclude a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clockwith the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wishto incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the secondfloor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was underPrussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraitsof prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depictsthe history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include thedisturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the townhall. A few posters from the Nazi era are on display, as well asa scattering of pictures showing Poznań in ruins after Sovietliberation, and the rebuilding efforts that followed. QOpen09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission5,50/3,50zł, Sat free.June 1956 Poznań Uprising Museum (MuzeumPowstania Poznańskiego - Czerwiec 1956) A-2, ul.Św. Marcin 82/80, tel. 061 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl.The 1956 anti-communist demonstrationsthat took place in Poznań finally find themselveshonoured with a permanent exhibit inside the Zamek. Makinguse of multi-media displays visitors are sucked back throughtime as they wonder around a series of dioramas that includea replica of a typical 50s flat, military vehicles and variouskeepsakes recovered from the era. Numerous photos havebeen collated, including the pictures of those killed, and a bigpart of the exhibition is taken up by a fabulous collection ofsocialist realist art from those times. Point of pride however isreserved for the shirt of Roman Strzałkowski, a 13 year old boyshot dead by militia forces during the rebellion. QOpen 9:00 -17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30minutes before closing. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free.Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (MuzeumLiterackie Henryka Sienkiewicza) D-2, Stary Rynek84, tel. 061 852 24 96. Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905,Sienkiewicz is best known as the author of Quo Vadis, abirth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50languages. The museum is located in a house that oncebelonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s hisbust you can see outside), and the collection is the life workof Igancy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabiliaafter paying the ransom to free Sienkiewicz’s only sonfrom the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the authors JohnLennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts,correspondences and a collection of his novels including anEnglish version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The opulentrooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits and periodfurniture, his writing desk and pictures of our hero posingwith his series of wives. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,Sun. Admission 3/2zł, Fri free.Motoring Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji) E-3,Rondo Kaponiera, tel. 061 847 63 59, www.aw.poznan.pl. A supreme example of how not to run a museum. The oldbattleaxe sitting at the kasa ignored us, staring defiantly atpaperwork in spite of our plaintive rattling on the window anda growing queue behind us. We gave up waiting, so we’ve noidea if any exhibitions may have changed since our last visit.Expect cars, of what sort we’ll leave you to find out. Foundin the subway beneath Rondo Kaponiera.QOpen 10:00 -16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon,Thu. Admission 4/3,50zł.Musical Instruments Museum (Muzeum InstrumentówMuzycznych) D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47,tel. 061 852 08 57, www.mnp.art.pl. The only Polishmuseum of professional and folk instruments, with over2000 items from Poland and around the world. The groundand first floors are given over to harmoniums and brassand wooden wind instruments. The stringed instrumentsinlcude a selection of lutes dating back to the 15th century.A collection of 160 pianos illustrates the development ofthe instrument from 1750 to the early 20th century. Aseperate room holds the relics of Frederic Chopin such asdocuments and personal effects. The second floor roomscontain Polish and European folk instruments as well asfascinating instruments from all other continents. Roundingoff the exhibit is a collection of mechanical instruments:music boxes, barrel organs, juke boxes, player pianosand gramophones. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 -21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission5,50/3,50zł, Sat free.National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-2, Al.Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852 59 69, www.mnp.art.pl. An excellent museum with a rich collection of modernPolish art (including interesting impressionistic works)in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutchand Flemish paintings in the connected old building. Themuseum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art(including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland. Selected paintingshave extensive English explanations about the artistand topic. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat,Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł,Sat free.Pharmaceutical Museum(Muzeum Farmacji) C-2, Al.Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. 061851 66 15. One of the smallestmuseums in Poznań, and certainlythe trickiest to find - go throughthe courtyard, ring the doorbellthen climb to the second floor.The series of rooms here arefilled with rusty pots, scales andcast iron mortars from the 19thcentury, and vials dating from asfar back as the 17th century. Unless you speak German orPolish you’ll find yourself wandering around in ignorance,though the thick smell of medicine and scattering of potsfor mixing potions is liable to bring out the Harry Potterin you. One room has been designed to mimic a 19thcentury pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine -while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, astuffed alligator and an inmates uniform recovered fromMathausen. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat,Sun. Admission free.Poznań Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Poznań)G-1, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel.061 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Militaria, documents and photographs comprisingthree permanent exhibitions. The History of the PoznańArmy covers this fighting force from 1918 to 1939; TheFighting Wielkopolska 1939-1945 details the undergroundresistance movements that operated during German occupationin World War II; and Battlefield items from theBzura is a collection relating to the famous battle at theriver Bzura in September 1939. Outside an array of militaryhardware includes a T34 tank, Katyusha rocket launchers,an Studebaker truck and a MIG. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.Closed Mon. Admission free.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

66 WHAT TO SEEWHAT TO SEE67HindenburgAs Poland’s fifth largestcity, and one of itsoldest, it’s sensible toassume a few famousfaces have been bornhere. Indeed a quickglance through historyreveals an almost pantomimelineup of goodiesand baddies. And as faras famous faces go theydon’t get more distinctivethan the lumberingwalrus frame of Paulvon Hindenburg, fieldmarshal extraordinaireand one of the mostrecognizable statesmenof the 20th century. His life started here, on Podgorna6 to be precise, where he was born in 1847 in whatwas then known as the Prussian city of Posen. Raisedby a family of vague aristocratic bearing, and a motherof distinctly less noble blood, he spent his youth onPodgorna, and his house still stands to this day. In fact,it’s actually possible to pop in for a beer, though to doso would mean stepping foot inside a ghastly bimbo barcalled Fashion Cafe.In all likelihood Hindenburg would have slipped intoobscurity had it not been for WWI. Recalled to militaryservice at the grand age of 66 the hitherto unknownmilitary man masterminded Germany’s victory at Tannenburgin 1914, a battle which left the defeated Russianarmy crippled. The result catapulted the whiskeredHindenburg to fame, and further victories, acclaim andpromotions followed, culminating in his 1916 appointmentas Chief of General Staff. A personality cult tookroot, and it wasn’t rare to find donations to the wareffort nailed onto the wooden statues of him which hadmushroomed across Germany. In fact, to all intents andpurposes, Hindenburg had become more important thanthe Kaiser, certainly more popular. He withdrew gentlyfrom the public view in the wake of the armistice, butreturned with a bang when he was elected President ofGermany in 1925. In spite of the perilous social state ofGermany Hindenburg’s time at the helm is rememberedfondly, and as the 1920s rolled to a close he did whathe could to limit the growing influence of Hitler’s Nazis.‘Gentlemen, I hope you will not hold me capable of appointingthis Austrian corporal to be Reich Chancellor’,he is noted as telling his inner circle. However he wasforced to do just that in 1933, and by this time thenow senile Hindenburg had lost much of his standing.Nonetheless, the ailing Hindenburg still vetoed Hitler’sproposed bill which called for the immediate sacking ofall Jews employed in the civil service. Although Hitlerwas keen to present a public show of respect for Hindenburg,he privately resented him and could often beoverheard cursing the ‘old reactionary’ and wishing forhis death. Hitler’s hopes were heard, and the followingyear Hindenburg succumbed to lung cancer, giving Hitlera free reign on Germany. He was buried a national heroat Tannenberg (now called Stebark in Poland), thoughwith WWII reaching its close his remains were spiritedaway by the retreating Germans to Marburg an der Lahn.He rests there to this day.Poznan Bamber Museum (Muzeum BambrówPoznańskich) D-2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. 0 603 64 5162, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Learn everything you everwished too about the Bamber people inside an interestingmuseum that includes a 19th century timber house onceowned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays number a17th century bonnet, spinning wheels, paintings, clothing andtimber furniture - everything you’d expect in an ethnographicmuseum. Outside view clunky farming equipment and othersuch detritus. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,Thu, Sun. Admission free.Residence & Workshop of KazimieraIłłakowiczówna (Mieszkanie-Pracownia KazimieryIłłakowiczówny) E-3, ul. Gajowa 4/8, tel. 061 847 3645, www.bracz.edu.pl. The works of the poet and writerKazimiera Iłłakowiczówna (1892-1983) stand preserved inthe studio in which she formerly lived. Everything remainsas it once was, from writing desks to personal possessionssuch as original manuscripts, books and paintings. AlthoughIłłakowiczówna’s fame is largely limited to native academicsthe exhibition isn’t a bad diversion if you have a passingcuriosity in how poets live. If not, give it a miss. QOpen ,Mon 13:00 - 15:00, Thu 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed, Fri,Sat, Sun. Admission free.Wielkopolska Ethnographic Museum (WielkopolskieMuzeum Etnograficzne) D-2, ul. Grobla25, tel. 061 852 30 06, www.mnp.art.pl. Once one ofEurope’s greatest Masonic lodges, this 19th century buildingnow houses a permanent collection of Wielkopolskafolk culture. Exhibits include sculpture, painting, clothing,embroidery and decorative art, as well as musical instrumentsand religious objects. Look out for the display ofvaluable gifts, as well as a bronze statue of the Hindugoddess Parvati - this was the first addition to the museumfollowing the aftermath of WWII. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00,Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.Admission 5,50/3,50zł, Sat free.Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (MuzeumMartyrologii Fort VII) Al. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. 061848 31 38, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl.Completed in 1880 to serve as a Prussian fortress FortVII gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penalcamp between 1939 and 1944. It processed around18,000 Polish prisoners, of which 4,500 are estimated toTourist informationCity Information Centre (Centrum InformacjiMiejskiej) B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 9645, www.cim.poznan.pl. Tourist office with detailedtourist and business information. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Glob-Tour E-4, Dworzec Główny (Main Train Station),tel. 061 866 06 67. This round-the-clock office in thetrain station offers a large selection of maps, guidebooksand videos. They also arrange tours and accommodation.Open 24hrs.Tourist Information Centre C-2, Stary Rynek59/60, tel. 061 852 61 56. Maps and guides inPolish and English. German, French and some Englishspoken. QOpen 10:00 - 19:0, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.Closed Sun. From April 15 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun10:00 - 18:00have been killed. The windswept grassy grounds make fora thought provoking walk and visitors can view the ‘deathwall’ where up to seven prisoners were executed daily duringNazi rule, as well as dark tunnels used as improvisedgas chambers - a metal plaque outside reads: ‘Here inOctober 1939 Nazi Germany began the mass exterminationof mentally ill people with the use of poisoned gas’.Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but hauntingdisplay that includes a guillotine, an execution block,truncheons, whips and arrest warrants. The personaleffects of prisoners have also been preserved includinghand written letters, playing cards, rosaries and identitypapers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisonerscan still be discerned, the writing framed with red and whiteribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task however.Found in the western suburbs your best bet is a taxi, withreputable drivers charging around 20zł for the journey. Toget back into town you’ll usually be able to flag a cab downon the main road, though you may wish to avoid this gameof chance by getting your driver to wait for the half an hourit takes to view the museum. Q Open 9:00 - 16:00, Sun10:00 - 16:00. Closed Monday. From 9:00 - 17:00, Sun10:00 - 16:00. Closed Monday. Admission free.Wielkopolska MilitaryMuseum (WielkopolskieMuzeum Wojskowe) D-2,Stary Rynek 9, tel. 061 85267 39, www.mnp.art.pl/oddzialy/wmw/index.php.Situated inside a brutal postWWII pavilion the Military Museumdocuments the historyof the Polish military from the11th century onwards, thoughwill be temporarily closed forrenovation through to February.QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,Sun 10:00 - 15:00. ClosedMon. Admission 3,50/2,20zł.Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (Muzeum PowstaniaWielkopolskiego) C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel.061 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Chronicling the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising this museumoccupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to theRoyal Guard. The exhibition includes a 1908 Maxim heavymachine gun sitting behind a row of sandbags, a copy ofthe uniform worn by the risings commander-in-chief, as wellas original state decorations awarded to him. Other pointsof interest include a banner flown on the night of the uprising’soutbreak, photos of troop formations and a series ofpostcards issued to commemorate the event.QOpen 10:00- 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. ClosedMon. Admission 4/2zł. Sat free.Parks & CemeteriesWilson Park (Park Wilsona) E-5, between ul.Głogowska, ul. Matejki and ul. Berwińskiego. Openedin 1902. Opposite the main entrance is a bust of the park’spatron. It also contains a large fountain with an 1891 monumentof Perseus saving Andromeda by Johannes Pful, andthe latest incarnation of the Palmiarnia, completed in 1992.QOpen 05:00 - 22:00.www.inyourpocket.comThe Enigma CodeThe vital role played by Polish exiles during the Battle ofBritain, who represented one in eight Allied pilots andwhose 303 Squadron boasted the best hit rate againstthe Luftwaffe, is today common knowledge. As is therole Polish forces played in breaking the siege of MonteCassino, and the daring raid on Dieppe in 1942. A lesserknown Polish contribution towards the Allied victory in1945, but equally significant, is the battle that took placeinside the minds of Poland’s finest academics to crack theGerman Enigma code. What’s this got to do with Poznań,we hear you ask. Well, it all began here, namely in themathematics class of Poznań’s University. Ace studentsJerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski and Henryk Zygalski cameto the attention of Polish intelligence services on accountof their excellent German skills and sharp mathematicalminds. Recruited to attend cryptology courses in Warsawalongside 17 other Poznań University alumni, the threewere set to work in 1932 on cracking German ciphers. Itwas here they made the first vital Engima breakthroughusing a mathematical theorem since described as ‘thetheorem that won WWII.’On the day before the Nazi invasion of Poland the threefled to Romania where they immediately sought contactwith the Allies. Originally they turned up at the BritishEmbassy in Bucharest, but having been told to ‘comeback in a few days’ decided to try their luck with theFrench instead. This proved more successful and fromthere they found themselves in France, working in Cadix,a secret intelligence cell operating in the unoccupiedsouth. With the risk of discovery by the Germans growinggreater the team were forced to flee. Różycki drowned atsea in 1942 after the boat carried him sank in suspiciouscircumstances, Zygalski and Rejewski however made it toSpain, in spite of being robbed by the man guiding themover the Pyrenees. More calamity followed: the pair werearrested by Spanish police and imprisoned, only freed thefollowing year after intervention by the Red Cross.Seeking sanctuary in England they were employed inBoxmoor cracking simple SS codes. In spite of havingdone the groundwork that broke the original Enigmacode their knowledge was not called on by the Americanand British codebreakers who were cracking new andimproved Enigma codes at Bletchely Park, hence thevital Polish contribution has been allowed to fade inthe memory. After the war Rejewski returned to Polandwhere he spent the rest of his days under scrutiny frominternal security services, and working in a successionof menial jobs. When he published his life story in 1973he became an unwitting superstar, and his work wasfinally recognized with a series of honours. He died in1980, buried in Warsaw’s Powązki Cemetery. Zygalskichose to remain in England and spent the post-waryears working as a maths teacher. He died in 1978 andis buried in London.Although the trio have since received numerous posthumousawards their role in winning the war remainsa little-known fact in the West, a cause not helped bysilver screen rubbish like the 2001 movie Enigma. Since1983 a memorial tablet at Poznań University’s CollegiumMajus has been in place honouring the three, and in2006 an obelisk bearing their names was unveiled onul. Św. Marcin in what was formerly the Maths Departmentof the uni.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

68 WHAT TO SEELech Visitors CentreLech VisitorsCentre ul. Szwajcarska11 (NoweMiasto), tel. 061878 74 60, www.kp.pl. A must forall beer aficionados.What couldbe better than halfa day out at oneof Poland’s biggest breweries? The Poznan Brewery,which produces Lech, Tyskie, Żubr and Redds lies on theoutskirts of the city.There is no minimum number of people required for a tourso you can happily book by yourself. They do ask thatyou make an appointment for a tour the day before or atvery least on the morning of your planned visit. Despitethis, our un-announced arrival presented no significantproblems - although we were naturally disappointedthatwe would have to wait half an hour in the bar beforea guide could be rustled up.The first hour consists of a waltz through the productionprocess, fermenting and mashing as well as theusual guffabout water purity and the like. The most striking thingabout the first hour’s tour through the production plantis the lack of humans and the sheer amount of steel andtechnology. The two hour tour, which is available in English,German and Russian is both informative and thoroghand your guides are employees of the brewery chosenfor their years of experience and interest in the brewingprocess. The brewery, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive,and having been treated to a facelift in the 1990sis thoroughly modern; you’ll find yourself surrounded bysparkling steel on all sides.For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to the multimediacentre. Here you’ll be treated to a film on thehistory and production of beer, as well as a galaxy of newattractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend thatyou take notes because you will be quizzed on the filmwhen it finishes, we kid you not. Take the opportunity tohave your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech whichyou can then instantly email to all of your friends or getinvolved in the bottling process which is guaranteed tobring out the child engineer in all of you.After your exhausting cultural experience you’ll finish thetour with a well-earned beer which you can choose fromtheir portfolio of brands, and you can complete yourimmersion into the world of Lech by buying up fleeces,keyrings, pens and beer mugs from the souvenir shop.To get to the Brewery take a tram over to Rondo Ratajeover the river and then take the M1 bus out to the shoppingmall on the edge of town. Hop off and you can’tmiss the brewery as it hasthree huge towers drapedin bright green Lech flags.Alternatively a taxi ride fromthe centre will set you backabout 20zł. QOpen 10:00 -14:00, Mon, Wed, Sat 10:00- 18:00. Closed Sun. Admissionfree.Poznań In Your PocketPlaces of interestCitadel Park (Park Cytadela) G/H-1, Wzgórze Cytadela.Winiary Hill, north of the Old Town, was transformed into a fortressfrom 1828 to 1839 by the Prussians. It was destroyed in the siegeof 1945, and the remains of the fortifications house the Museumof the Poznań Army and the Citadel Museum, which has open-airdisplays of military equipment. The rest of the area the fortressoccupied is now a large park. Of note are the cemeteries thatlie on the south west of the park boundaries. A commonwealthgraveyard includes the remains of allied airmen shot down overPoland during WWII and is also the resting place for several of thosecaptured during The Great Escape - yes it was a true story (minusSteve McQueen). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to Red Armysoldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a soaring monumentstanding out as an awesome display of Socialist Realism. The redstar that once topped it was long removed, the rumours that it wasfilled with jewels proving to be urban myth. Jammed in betweenSoviet and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated toPoles killed under Fascism, and also during the 1956 WielkopolskaUprising. After all the gloom and death the installation titled ‘TheUnrecognized’ by Magdalena Abakanowicz comes as light relief.Some 112 cast iron headless figures stand at over two metreshigh and make for curious viewing. Added to the park in 2002, themeaning of the controversial installation is open to debate. Formore about the artist visit www.abakanowicz.art.pl.QThe GoatsButting Heads Poznan Town Hall, Stary Rynek 1. The crowdyou see outside the Old town Hall just before noon each day is waitingfor the goats to appear. At 12:00 precisely, the two tin creaturesappear from a door in the façade and butt heads a dozen times.The first goats were installed in 1551 by Bartłomiej of Gubin, andover the years have been restored and replaced. The presentgoats date from 1954. The legend goes as follows: when the clockwas unveiled in 1511, it was to be shown off to the governor of thePoznań province. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feastburnt the venison. Panicking, he went out and stole a pair of goatsto cook instead. But they escaped to the City Hall tower where thebemused guests saw them butting heads up on a ledge. The governorwhimsically decreed that mechanical goats be added to theclock. The fate of the cook remains a mystery, though the chancesare he would have been tied up to the whipping post directly outsideand given a bloody good thrashing.ZoosNew Zoo (Nowe Zoo) ul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto),tel. 061 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. The 116 hectareNew Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven yearsof construction. Housing over 2,000 animals representing 140species, it’s comprised of 60 per cent pine and mixed forestswith an artificialy-created creek and string of ponds runningthrough the grounds. This way, the creatures live in recreationsof their natural habitats rather than inhumane concrete pens.A pavilion for nocturnal animals was added in 1995. Q Open09:00-16:00. From March 1 Open 09:00-17:00. From April 1Open 09:00-19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł.Old Zoo (Stare Zoo) E-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel.061 848 08 63, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Poland’s oldest zoodates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions.Beasts occupying the 4.39 hectare zoo include lions, zebras,giraffes, hippopotami, monkeys and apes. It officially becamea Poznań historical site in 1972. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Lastentrance 60 minutes before closing. Open 09:00-16:00. FromMarch 1 Open 09:00-17:00. From April 1 Open 09:00-19:00.Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł.poznan.inyourpocket.com

70KÓRNIKKÓRNIK71Hailed as one of the great castles in Poland the neo-GothicKórnik lies 20km south east of Poznań and makes for aneasy day trip for those looking to see a little more of theregion.Getting thereIf you’re in Poznań the easiest way to reach Kórnik is by bus.You have two choices. Either take the private Kombus bus(tel. 061 898 06 66, www.kombus.com.pl), numbers 501,502 or 560 which leave from the Kombus bus station (I-5,Rataje Roundabout, ul. Krzywoustego 19). Tickets are boughtdirectly from the driver - just ask for Kórnik Rynek, hand theman 5.80/2.90zł (for students up to the age of 26, childrenunder 4 travel free) and away you go. Your journey will takearound 30 minutes. There is at least one bus every hourdeparting around 12 minutes past the hour on weekdayswith an extra bus running at peak times. At weekends busesleave once an hour, most hours, at the start of the hour.Buses run from 05:12 until 23:37. There is also a PKS bus(tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.poznan.pl) that runs from MainBus Station (F-4 ul. Towarowa 17/19). The first one leavesat 05:30 and the last 22:30. Buses leave Poznań at leastonce an hour with additional buses between 11:00 and 17:00.Ticket costing 6.50zł may be bought in the ticket office in thestation or from the driver.KórnikPenned in by lakes and forests Kórnik (pop. 6,500) is yoursignature provincial town, with its principal high street linedwith trees and two storey townhouses dating from the 18thand 19th century.On alighting from the bus you’ll be met with the sight of AllSaints’ Church, a beautiful brick building founded in 1437and funded by the Górka’s. It was rebuilt in a neo-Gothicstyle in 1826 after being gutted by fire, and its crypt holdsAll Saints’ ChurchA. WebberKórnik CastleA. Webbermembers of the Działyński and Zamoyski families - more ofthem later. Other points of interest include ‘the eye of theneedle’, a narrow passage leading to a now defunct Jewishprayer house (find it on the main high street as you go intotown, keeping an eye out for the Hebrew inscription on thewall), as well as the neo Baroque town hall, now serving as theseat of local government. Built in 1907 its stand out featureis the mechanical rooster that appears out of the clock onthe strike of noon.The name of Kórnik is thought to refer to the locals’ skill inraising roosters (kur) and as such you’ll find no shortage ofgame on offer in the local restaurants. The best addressin town is Biała Dama (Pl. Niepodległości 20, 061 817 0216), a vast restaurant hidden inside a squat reminder of the1960s. Festooned with plants, ceremonious lighting and theobligatory picture of The White Lady, they have the benefitof an English menu on which you’ll find dishes like boar andvenison. Unless you have the fortune of having your momentof quiet contemplation hijacked by a wedding party its morethan likely you’ll be doing your dining in echoing silence. For amore down to earth experience hit Kórnicka (ul. Poznańska19/21, 061 898 06 22) - a locals restaurant with yellowwalls, local radio and the lonely chime of grandfather clocksto remind you of the desperation of living in the sticks. Nobooze license, and no English menu, though the greasyplates of Polish food will do enough to keep you from cannibalism.If you’re keen to linger on in Kórnik then considerbooking a night in Hotel Daglezja (ul. Woźniaka 7, tel. 061897 27 00, www.hoteldaglezja.pl, singles 160zł, doubles199zł, apartments 249zł). The bad news is the exterior, acomplete work of insanity; although given a modern lookthe horror includes a mock castle tower complete withpieces of stone cladding, and a connecting wing painted inghastly rainbow colours. Fortunately the accommodationis great, with a very decent contemporary standard, newfittings and highly commendable restaurant serving localand European dishes.Kórnik Castle (Zamek Kórnik) ul. Zamkowa 5,Kórnik, tel. 061 817 00 81, www.bkpan.poznan.pl.Originally built at the tail end of the 14th century by the Górkafamily, the castle has been extensively remodelled throughthe centuries, and is one of the few cultural treasures thatwas spared the hurricane of destruction of WWII. The idealbackdrop for a supernatural horror, the corridors of Kórnikrepresent a marvellous trip through time.The castle is a ten minute walk from the bus stop, and thecloser it looms the more impressive it appears. Founded bythe Górka’s this noble family fell into extinction and, after bitterownership wrangles, the castle passed into the hands ofthe Działyński family at the end of the 17th century. It wouldremain the family domain until 1880 when it was inheritedby their closest (legitimate) relative, Władyslaw Zamoyski,who before his death in 1924 bequeathed the castle to thePolish nation.Today the castle owes its appearance to the Działyński family,with the last reconstruction occurring during the 19th centurywhile the castle was under the stewardship of Tytus Działyński.Having originally commissioned the Italian architects Corazziand Marconi to draw up plans Tytus was put off by theextravagant costs of their suggestions so commissioneda third architect, the German K.E Schinkel (responsible formany of Berlin’s neo-classical structures). Although Schinkelprepared detailed sketches he never actually visited Kórnik,so a frustrated Tytus - a savvy engineer - took matters intohis own hands and used a conglomeration of his own ideasand previously submitted plans. Taking a hands-on approachboth he and his wife designed all the interiors themselves,leaving their indelible mark on the castle.Accessed across a wooden draw bridge a visit to the castledoes not begin until you’ve strapped a pair of oversized slippersto your feet and done a couple of deft ice-skating moveson the slidey surfaces. Immediately to your right lies the studyof Zamoyski, the last owner. Furnished with 17th centuryGdańsk cupboards the room also includes a mahogany deskfrom England, a 19th century Webster’s dictionary and a travellingchest that the workaholic Zamoyski would sometimesuse as a pillow. Further on the route takes you through avariety of chambers, each packed with paintings and ornatefurnishings. The drawing room is one of the highlights of theground floor, and features a grand piano owned by Tytus’sister, Claudyna. Given to her in Dresden, legend has it thatChopin once tickled these ivories in his bid to seduce her. Thefireplace, grand as it is, should be noted for other reasons.It’s in here that a patriotic Tytus hid to escape arrest for hisinvolvement in the 1831 Uprising. Other treasures to look forinclude a rotating table, made from 16 different species ofwood, thereby allowing guests to whimsically decree whichparticular segment they would dine on, and the room is alsohome to a French pedal harp, its strings made from animalintestines. Carrying on visitors can view an original mosaicfrom Pompeii depicting a slavering hound and a warning to‘Beware of the Dog’, while the wooden ceiling of the diningroom features 71 coats of arms belonging to the Polish aristocracy.At the end of the room, a giant portrait of Teofila,who is said to float down from her portrait on occasion as aWhite Lady and stalk benignly around the grounds.On your way out don’t pass by the mirror; look straight into themiddle of it, and make a wish instead. Known as the MorskieOko (a lake in Zakopane), this mirror is something of a pointof pilgrimage for newlyweds. Last on your tour of the groundfloor is the Hunting Room. Of note are the interlocked antlersof a pair of a deer, the remains of a deadly fight in the forestsof Kórnik. A host of anthropological treasures fill the rest ofthe room, including Melanesian masks crafted from humanbone and a necklace made from human teeth. The seashellson display are the collection of Zamoyski who planned to usethem to build a subterranean chapel - a plan abandoned afterhis death. Walking up the stairs a huge hall designed to mimicthe Alhambra contains Tytus’s collection of military weaponry,from the uniforms of winged hussars, to five metre lances.Other curios include two handed battleaxes, lances from the15th century and a 16th century Spanish chest. Used to storevaluables this 13 lock monstrosity can be viewed as beingthe precursor to the safe. From there on you’ll find a dizzyingarrange of personal effects, from Napoleon’s spoon to militarymedals and even a death cast taken of Jan Działyński’s hand- a supreme example of the sepulchral art of the day.Kórnik is also an important seat of academia, and thelibrary found inside the castle rates as one of top five inPoland. Founded by Tytus Działyński in 1828 it boasts over400,000 tomes, including approximately 30,000 booksover 150 years old. The prize possession is the Order ofBenedict, a 9th century manuscript which is the oldest inPoland. Since 1953 it has operated as part of the NationalLibrary of Poland, with an onus on science, and you’ll findmany of the more interesting books frequently put out onpublic display; available for view on our visit were a mapfrom 1482, a first edition of Copernicus’ defining work, DeRevolutionobis and a 16th century bible penned in twelvetongues. Although the library suffered looting courtesy ofthe Nazi forces the castle itself was saved from an ignobleend by the sharp wits of a curator; keep your eyes to theground by the entrance, close to the Zamoyski’s study; it’shere you’ll spot a tile arrangement vaguely resembling aswastika; this was pointed out to a group of visiting Germanofficers as a sure sign of Nazi supremacy, and theyleft peacefully satisfied in the knowledge that Kórnik wasGerman enough to be saved from destruction.Q Open10:00-16:00, Closed Mon. from May 1 Open 10:00-17:00.Admission 12/7zł, family ticket 28zł. Guided tours up to35 people 60zł.The ArboretumHaving toured round the castle don’t make the mistake ofignoring the arboretum outside. Originally it was our favouritewhite lady, Teofila, who founded the gardens, creating a park inthe popular French style with trimmed shrubs, artificial pondsand stone statues. The garden was completely remodeledby Tytus Działyński, who expanded the park, imported manyof the trees currently standing and gave it its English look.Today the fifty hectare site serves as a marvellous walk, withnumerous protected species and trees from as far away asChina. Winding pathways take you round the site, providingmany memorable scenes no matter what season you’re visitingin. Linden trees dating back 350 years line the principalroute, taking you round the various lakes and rivers. Like thecastle, the Arboretum was saved from the ravages of WWII bya quick thinking member of staff. Alarmed that Soviet soldierswere chopping down trees for firewood the gardener appealedto the patriotism of the Soviet commander, declaring that theforest was also home to the Siberian apple tree. Appalledby this desecration the commander stopped his troops intheir tracks and the park was saved. Battered by stormsin January 2007, the park has stood the tests and trials oftime, its status confirmed by the presence of the NationalInstitute of Dendrology.www.inyourpocket.comPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

72THE PIAST ROUTECASTLES OF WIELKOPOLSKA73Those looking to trace the birth of the Polish nation shouldmake it in their interests to follow the Piast Route, a touristtrail specifically designed to take in the key sights associatedwith Poland’s formative years. Consisting of dozensof castles, churches, cathedrals and museums the routeencompasses a vast variety of sights, some relevant toPoland’s beginnings, others whose inclusion is a little baffling.Below are our favourites:BiskupinIn 1933 an eagle-eyed school master spotted wooden stakessticking out of some lakeside reeds and like a conscientiouscitizen went to investigate. What he had inadvertentlystumbled on was to become known as the Polish Pompeii:a Lusatian fortified settlement dating from the early IronAge. Excavation work was launched the following year, andcarried on under the request of Himmler once Poland fell toGermany. Situated 90km north east of Poznań Biskupin hassince become a popular symbol of patriotism, proof to manythat Poland has always proudly defended its borders againstthe Germans. Today the wooden fortress has been fully reconstructedand is open throughout the year as an open airmuseum. Although not connected with the Piast dynasty itis seen as a vital part of the route that traces Poland’s earlyorigins. Without a doubt Biskupin rates as one of the greatwonders of Poland, but that doesn’t mean tourists will findit easy to get there. Your best bet is to either hire a car orhijack a helicopter. If you’re travelling from Poznań using publictransport you’ll be left with no choice but spending a night inthe local town of Żnin. For more info check the comprehensiveEnglish language website at www.biskupin.pl.KruszwicaFound on the banks of Lake Gopło this is a historic markettown that became one of the first fortified settlements in theregion. Your camera lens is going to primarily be zooming in onthe Mouse Tower (Mysia Wieża), a 32 metre structure sittingon the Rzępowski Peninsula. Apparently built during the reignof Kazimierz the Great the tower was awarded its name aftera plague of rodents allegedly ate Prince Popiel - a deviouschap who had poisoned some rivals.Ostrów LednickiFound between Poznań and Gniezno a trip to Lake Lednickiallows the opportunity to visit the Museum of the FirstPiasts - Poland’s largest open-air museum. Situated on anisland tourists get to wander around the 10th century ruinsof a castle and church once used by both Mieszko I and hisson. Once connected to the mainland by a pair of bridges thefortress is thought to have played its part during in repellingthe Czech invasion of 1038 and archaeological relics thathave been recovered since include weaponry, cutlery andthe skeleton of a fallen Czech warrior.StrzelnoAlthough a tiny town ofjust 12,000 Strzelno isone of the most importantpoints on the trail of thePiasts. Visit St. Adalbert’sHill to view the Church of St.Prokopus, a rotund houseof worship whose historyallegedly goes back to the12th century. Next to it isthe Basilica, and though itwas retouched in Baroquestyle its history goes waybeyond those times; in1946 routine restoration work by professor Zdzisław Kępinskirevealed a set of Romanesque columns which had been hiddenfrom view for over 200 years. These columns are thoughtto be over 800 years old, and the only similar ones on recordare to be found in Venice and Santiago de Compostella.TrzemesznoBefore St. Adalbert’s corpse made it to Gniezno it was originallylaid to rest in this town. Apparently founded in the 10thcentury Trzemeszno features a baroque church dating fromthe 18th century, as well as a monument to the local-bornhero Jan Kiliński. A cobbler by trade he went on to become theunlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite beingwounded twice Kiliński led his men to capture the RussianAmbassador’s Warsaw residence, and he is said to embodythe Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism.WenecjaFive kilometers south of Żnin, Wenecja (Venice) is a smallsettlement whose name alludes to its picturesque locationtucked between three lakes. Known as the ‘Pearl of Pałuki’the town is home to a Narrow Gauge Railway Museum, withits collection featuring a number of steam locomotives (theoldest dating back to 1900), various detritus recovered fromthe age of steam and a working line that takes captivatedvisitors all the way to Żnin (stopping at Biskupin). But the realpoint of interest here are the skeletal ruins of a former Piaststronghold. A leftover from the 14th century the castle oncecame under the ownership of Mikołaj Nałęcz, a nasty judgewho originated from Kalisz. Nicknamed the ‘devil of Wenecja’his ghost is said to stalk the ruins at night.WylatowoFounded in 1358 - right at the tail end of King Kazimierz’s rule- the town of Wylatowo has the most tenuous connectionswith the Piasts, however you’ll find it included in all the bumphrelated to the Piast Route because of two factors. Firstly, it’shome to the only triple-aisled wooden church in Poland (built1761). Secondly, it’s famous for extra-terrestrial activity. Wekid you not. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shapedobject was photographed floating in the skies last year, withlab tests since confirming that there were no camera tricksor other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s not theonly peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop circles firststarted appearing in the neighbouring fields Wylatowo hasestablished itself as a mecca for Polski ufologists. While someclaim the circles are the work of savvy farmers looking tomake a quick buck science geeks and X-Files style investigationshave yet to determine the cause of this annual summerphenomena. For more info, including live transmissions fromthe affected areas visit www.ufotv.pl.Łagów Castleul. Kościuszki 3, Łagów, tel. 068 341 21 19, www.zamek-lagow.pl.Lying halfway between Poznań and Berlin Łagów Castle issurprisingly easy to access. If you’re traveling by car makethe 100km trip past Świecko and Świebodzin, before leavingthe main road and turning right at Gronów. Łagów lies 6kmaway. Alternatively take a train from Poz to Świebodzin, andfrom there take a bus to Łagów.Jan JerszyńskiThe CastleFirst off you’ll needto know that whileŁagów makes foran easy journeythis is no daytrip;since beingrenovated by theCentre for Sportsand Tourism in1971 Łagów hasfunctioned solelyas a restaurant,hotel andconference centre,so if you want tosnoop aroundyou’ll need to shellout on one of theaforementioned.The good news isthat this place isas cheap as a bag of buttons – doubles cost from 180-200zł per night, and not only do you get to live the dreamof staying in a castle for the night, you can even opt for anight in a ‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bedthis is every gimps dream and comes complete with clunkymanacles suspended from the walls and other scary bitsand pieces. Bear in mind there’s only 14 rooms here, so dobook in advance to avoid disappointment.First mention of Łagów, or castrum Lagowe, can be tracedback to 1299 when it was awarded to a knight named Albertvon Klepzig by a group of Brandenburg magistrates. Thehistory books concerning the fortress are vague to say theleast, though we do know that in 1347 it was leased to theJohanniter Knights, who belonged to the Order of St John, andit was also in this century that ramparts were built and thecastle started taking on the form of which we are now familiarwith. The castle only saw action once, during the 30 YearsWar (1618-1648), though passed its acid test with flyingcolours; its stoic defenders successfully beating off an attackby Swedish troops. As time passed the Johanniter’s becamean evangelical knighthood which allowed them to marry, withthe first commander of the castle to advantage of this beingAndreas von Schlieben. He died in 1571 and was buried in thelocal church, but that doesn’t mean you’ve got no chance ofmeeting him. In 1820 the president of the Poznań Treasurywas visiting the castle when he saw the ghostly shape of aknight engulfed in flames standing at the foot of his bed. Theghost apparently bore a canny likeness to the image on vonSchlieben’s tomb and has been spotted several times since;though only in spring and summer, and only by men. Thereis no sane explanation for the flames that accompany him,but don’t let that ruin a good story.As time passed the Johanniter order was secularized onthe whim of Frederic Wilhelm III and the estate was takenover by the state, before being sold on to a series of privatelandowners. It escaped WWII undamaged and today originaldetails like the 15th century brick gate can still be viewed.See Kórnik Castle:page 70Gołuchów CastleGołuchów, tel. 062 761 50 94.Situated 115km from Poznań, and 20km north west of Kalisz,Gołuchów can be reached directly by bus from Poznań’smain bus station.The CastleA marvellous castle with an absolute feast of delights lying inwait for those who make the journey. The elaborate Gołuchówhas taken many forms over the years, though its beginningswere less than auspicious. It was in 1560 when the localgovernor Rafał IV Leszczyński chose to build a fortified toweron this spot, filling it with only the most spartan of fixtures andfittings. The castle started taking shape in the following decadeswhen Wacław Leszczyński, no doubt inspired by his studies inItaly and Germany, decided to attach a palace complex to thetower, as well as adding several elaborate details to the originalstructure. These included carved stone fireplaces, ornamentaldoors and his vast collection of paintings, though by the 18thcentury the castle – badly damaged during the course of the100 Years War – had fallen into disrepair.A new lease of life was granted when Tytus Działyński (seeKórnik Castle, What to see) bought the castle in 1853 andgifted it to his only son, Jan Kanty. Having returned frompolitical exile in Paris (for his part in the January Uprising,1831) Kanty set about remodelling the castle to follow neogothicand renaissance forms. It was Kanty’s wife though,Izabella Elżbieta Czartoryska, who set about making thecastle famous. It was her who didn’t accept original plansfor renovation on account of them being too austere, and itwas her who made the decision to open a museum. By herdeath in 1899 the halls of the castle were filled with paintings,tapestries and sculptures dating from the 16th century. Theoutbreak of WWII spelled disaster for this collection. Althoughthe treasures were stacked away in metal trunks and hiddenin Warsaw they were discovered by the Nazis, with the biggestmuseums of the Third Reich squabbling over the riches.Although much of the collection was recovered after the warmost of the spoils were split between the National Museum’sin Warsaw and Poznań, while the castle itself – used as awarehouse for Nazi uniforms – was left a broken shadow ofits former glory. The efforts to restore both museum andcastle have been Herculean, and today your first sight of itmay remind of the Loire Chateau.The museum is well worth the visit alone, with antiquitiesincluding vases from 3BC, 16th century books and manuscripts,gothic artwork and a number of relics that formerly belongedto the pre-warmuseum. Theannex near thecastle contains aforestry museumwith all mannerof stuffed beastson display, andyou may be luckyenough to spota Polish bisonlumping aroundthe surroundinggrounds.MausoleumPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

74GNIEZNOGNIEZNO75While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their cityas Poland’s first capital anyone with a passing knowledgeof history will identify this as a fib. That title belongs toGniezno, a picturesque town lying 50km east of Poz.Of all the towns, villages and cities in Poland nowhereis more synonymous with the foundation of the Polishstate than Gniezno. Although the capital was eventuallyshifted to Kraków and then Warsaw, Gniezno remainedan important centre of worship and to this day is stillregarded as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For the visitorit is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles, a superbmedicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland.Getting thereNothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań.Trains run frequently throughout the day with the last one inthe evening leaving Gniezno at approximately 22:40. You’vegot two class of trains to choose from, either the Pospieszny,which has a habit of packing out with students buried underbackpacks, or the Osobowy, which lurches to a stop at everyhamlet. Journey time will take anything from fifty minutes toan hour and a quarter and one way tickets retail at little morethan 10-12zł. Travellers using the Pospieszny train should notethat Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect anytannoy announcements alerting you to your arrival. The trainstation is a simple affair featuring an ATM, an upstairs internetcafe, newsagent and cafe. Getting to town is ABC stuff withthe Rynek lying little more than a ten minute from the station.Simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, andthen follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively live thehigh life and splash out on a cab: five złoty should be enoughto get you dropped off in the Rynek.Where to stayWhile there may be no international brands present inGniezno, the city does offer a pretty decent selection ofplaces to rest your head at very impressive prices if youare travelling from the west.Adalbertus ul. Tumska 7a, tel. 061 426 13 60, fax061 426 13 60 ext. 160, adalalbertus@pietrak.pl,www.pietrak.pl. Younger sister of the Pietrak Hotel, thisone situated within eyeshot of the Cathedral and set arounda courtyard filled with shrubbery. Found inside a restored18th century building the Adalbertus features a serene atmosphereas well as all the modern day creature comfortsnecessary for a smooth stay. Q24 rooms (6 singles 128- 160zł, 14 doubles 152 - 190zł, 4 apartments 240 - 300zł).THAUGKW hhhAWO ul. Warszawska 32, tel./fax 061 426 11 97, recepcja@hotel-awo.pl,www.hotel-awo.pl. A superb dealaccessed via an arched courtyard. Toothpaste smile servicechecks you in at reception before leading you up the stainlesssteel stairs to spacey rooms that come fitted with cable TV,vast beds and heating that is guaranteed to melt any iciclesthat have formed on your nose. Under-equipped travelerswill appreciate the house computer for your internerd needsand the mini-shampoo in the bathrooms. Q40 rooms (15singles 160zł, 17 doubles 210zł, 1 triple 250zł, 1 suite 300zł,3 apartments 300zł). THARUGKW hhhGewert ul. Paczkowskiego 2, tel. 061 428 23 75, fax061 425 33 43, recepcja@gewert.gniezno.pl, www.gewert.gniezno.pl. Set inside a modern brick building theGerwert touts all weather tennis courts, conference facilitiesand rooms decorated in vivacious shades of blue and yellow.Clean, comfortable and a short cab ride from the Rynek. Q24rooms (24 singles 126 - 140zł, 15 doubles 153 - 170zł, 5triples 207 - 230zł, 1 suite 207 - 230zł, 2 apartments 189 -210zł). THAGKW hhLech ul. Bł. Jolenty 5, tel. 061 426 23 85, fax 061 42457 33, recepcja@hotel-lech.pl, www.hotel-lech.pl. Abrutalist, blockish structure offering cheap rooms decoratedwith plastic plants and furnishings not seen for a couple of decades.Expect lots of dark brown; a great colour for cake, notfor carpet. Nonetheless it’s decent and clean and apparentlya popular choice for conferences. Q32 rooms (28 singles110 - 140zł, 30 doubles 130 - 170zł, 4 triples 160 - 200zł).THAFGKDC hMedical Vocational School Boarding House ul.Mieszka I 27, tel./fax 061 426 34 09, medykgniezno@op.pl, www.medyk.gniezno.pl. The best bargain in townand as such it should come as little surprise to find no roomin the inn. The lodgings here are basic but the fittings arenew and kept meticulously scrubbed, and many of the roomsstare out onto a quiet courtyard. TVs and spanking cleanbathrooms are part of the price. Good luck finding it though:you’ll need to walk deep into the medical academy that runsthis place, before taking your chances with a monolingualreceptionist.QNo breakfast served. 50 dorm beds 35-40złper person. GPietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel./fax 061 426 14 97,gniezno@pietrak.pl, www.pietrak.pl. Set inside a restoredtownhouse overlooking the high street the Pietrak has longbeen considered the best hotel in town, which is why you’llfind political luminaries such as Lech Wałęsa and formerpresident Aleksander Kwaśniewski listed in the guestbook.The feast of facilities includes a fitness club and spa, thoughif you’re tired of running around then get someone else todo it for you; room service is available at your beck and call.Lodgings feature internet, mini-bar and cable TV and the neoclassicalrooms come decorated in swish green and creamcolours. Q54 rooms (9 singles 180zł, 28 doubles 210zł, 8suites 250zł, 9 apartments 320zł). PTHARUFGKDW hhhhRestaurantsHotel Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel. 061 426 14 97,www.pietrak.pl. The best hotel in town, but definitelynot the best meal. Pietrak looks like it fits the bill withits bow-tie waiters, creeping ivy and classical columnsbut there’s no masking a disappointing meal. The menuclaims the Chancellor of Germany dined here in 2000 andguests can still eat from the tailor made menu prepared forhim. We can only assume the chefs have since changed.We opted for steak in Bernaise sauce accompanied withjacket potatoes and dumplings. The potatoes turned outto be crinkly fries, the dumplings must have got lost inthe kitchen and as for the steak; we asked for medium,it came back alive. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (11-50zł).PAUIEXSWRatuszowa ul. Chrobrego 40/41, tel. 061 424 3223, www.ratuszowa.gniezno.pl. Rated by many as thetop restaurant in Gniezno, and it certainly looks the part:black and white flooring, parlour palms and soothing creamcolours. It all looks very ballroom and the menu is suitablyhigh end with offerings that range from zander fillet tosaddle of deer. Diners be warned, their opening hours arerigorously enforced, which is exactly why we were turnedaway at 10pm on a Friday night. Better luck next time.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (18-48zł).PTAUESRestauracja Polska ul. Tumska 5, tel. 061 42618 00, www.5.gniezno.pl. A super restaurant splitinto different sections: cafe, restaurant, bistro - notto mention a heavenly garden that will no doubt beclosed the moment you read this. Inside numerouschambers come decorated with framed oil paintings,fragile crockery and pointy linen napkins. The menupromises all the standards of Polish country cooking,and if you’re lucky you’ll find your meal complimentedby live jazz performances. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.(20-47zł). PTAISSphinx ul. Chrobrego 4, tel. 061 426 13 73, www.sphinx.pl. Definitely not a gourmet experience but sayit quietly, Sphinx is one of the best chances you have ofeating well in Gniezno. You’re probably already familiar withthe concept by now; shoarmas, gyros, pizzas and steaksall served with an accompanying spade of cabbage amidan interior of plastic trees and multi-coloured lanterns.The authenticity is definitely there to be questioned.This is after all a Polish chain serving middle easternfood with recipes apparently coined by Tom Maltom.Correct me if I’m wrong but it’s highly unlikely the pharaohshad their feasts prepared by a bloke named Tom.Nonetheless Sphinx is cheap, simple and hits your dailycalorie count in one swoop, and that can’t be faulted.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (20-45zł).PTAXSWZłoty Smok ul. Kaszarska 1a, tel. 061 426 78 04.Like so many of the Chinese restaurants in Poland theGolden Dragon goes straight for the eyes, blinding thevisitor with a carnival of lanterns, painted screens andother ghastly bits and pieces. This is not Chinese foodthe way it’s served back home, but that’s not to say it’snot worth visiting. The prices here are derisory, yourcoins winning you steaming bowls of all the beef, duckand chicken dishes you’d expect. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.(8-25zł). PSBars & ClubsDracula Pub Rynek 15. To find that Gniezno has anightlife comes as an unexpected plus, to then find ithas a Dracula pub is enough to have you consideringrelocating. ‘Love never dies’ proclaims a sign above thethreshold, and from thereon it’s a cheery romp throughthe underworld as a maze of subterranean chambersreveal walls adorned with scary zombie masks, lanternswith Halloween faces and coffin-shaped doors. Find asolitary bargirl looking completely bemused by it all asshe attempts to multitask between homework and findinga radio signal. Completely unexpected and a fantasticdiversion, even if none of the locals seem to agree.QOpen 16:00 - 24:00.Play Club ul. Kaszarska 3, www.klubplay.pl. While therest of Gniezno sleeps Play goes way into the night, waving thebanner for provincial clubbing. Filled with Eminem replicantsand girls dripping in blingy trinkets Play is, if nothing else,an interesting study in how far the general twittery of MTVhas penetrated backwater Poland. But while the puntersare desperately trying to feel part of the 21st century theinteriors are anything but; here it’s all fake fog, strobe lightsand stainless steel. Don’t be surprised to find the music isnothing more challenging than dance anthems played at earpopping volume.Pub ul. Rzeźnicka 7 (entrance from ul. Chrobrego 3),tel. 061 426 14 97 ext. 158, www.pietrak.pl. Possiblythe most popular drinkery in town, and while the namelacks imagination the interior doesn’t. Murals of cacti, acouple of wagon wheels and a wood frame bar suggest anattempt at a Dodge City bar, and other extras include anunexplained mannequin staring from atop of a mezzanine.The visual diversions don’t end there; the moment workfinishes you’ll find half of Gniezno choosing to drink here,and it won’t take for outsiders to note that they’re a goodlooking bunch. Plenty of eye candy here, a screen for footballand a background noise of party tunes lend this place apermanent buzz that lasts long into the evening. QOpen11:00 - 24:00. PAUEXPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

76GNIEZNOGNIEZNO77The Birth of PolandSeeing that Poland occupies a fair chunk of Europe it’ssafe to assume it has a history to match the greatestof nations. Indeed, to pen the full story of Poland and itsorigins would be to come up with a tome thick enoughto stun an elephant. So we’ve skipped a few steps andcome up with the idiot’s guide to the birth of Poland, andthe key sights that the amateur historian should view.Poland’s first ruling family were the Piast’s, and althoughlegend has the family line going back to the 8th centurywe’ll start our story with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’sthe fella on the face of the ten złoty note). Born in 935ADhis life generally revolved around the battlefield, leadinghis troops into battle from the Baltic Coast to the plainsof Silesia. When he wasn’t hacking heads off he spentmost of his time in the Wielkopolska region, specificallyin his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrow Lednicki.Baptised in 966 he founded the cathedral in Poznań twoyears later, a move seen by many as the beginning of thenation’s Christianisation. Following his death in 992 hewas succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the 20złnote), and it’s around this time where our story gatherspace. Adalbert had been the first Bishop of Prague, thoughthe strains of the job proved too much for him. Seekinga quieter life he took up residence in Gniezno. Persuadedout of exile he set off to convert the barbarous Prussiantribes to Christianity. It turned out to be a foolish move:he was killed immediately, his head ending up on a spike.Bolesław decided to recover the corpse, and made theperilous journey westwards to do so. A ransom was paidand he headed back to Poland with the corpse in tow.It was a selfless act, and one that so impressed thePope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy RomanEmpire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view the body and meetwith Bolesław. It was during this meeting that an archbishopricwas established in Gniezno, and 25 years laterBolesław had himself crowned king. Commonly knownas Bolesław the Great or Bolesław Chrobry the nation’sfirst regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland,as well as strengthening Poland’s international standingthrough his smart diplomacy. His son and heir, MieszkoII, didn’t fare so well, dying in suspicious circumstancesnine years into his reign. In spite of his sticky demise thePiast’s remained in power, and continued to rule Polandfor centuries to come. Their successes were hit-and-miss,and the rulers frequently found themselves at conflict withthe landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatenedto disintegrate, and it wasn’t until the coronation in 1320of Władysław I that concerted efforts were once moremade to unite Poland’s different provinces. The work ofWładysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who wouldlater be known through history as Kazimierz the Great - hedoubled the size of Poland, stabilized the economy, andcommissioned the construction of a number of castlesand forts. What he failed to do, however, was have a son.Not one of his four wives was able to bear him a son, andhis death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty.Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11thcentury the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with thePiasts and their time at Poland’s helm. The Piast Routecovers the most important sites connected with Poland’searly beginnings, and presents the mobile tourist with anumber of forts, cathedrals, ruins and miscellaneous locationsto visit. For a comprehensive list visit the website ofthe Piast Route Tourist Organization at www.turystyka.powiat-gniezno.pl.Pub Cafe ul. Warszawska 32, tel. 061 426 11 97, www.hotel-awo.pl. Inch your way down a set of spiral stairs to findthis basement bar. Filled with sporting trophies, mirrors andtimber this is where the local lads head to in order to catchthe match, their beer poured with panache by a personablegentleman with a theatrical moustache. Check out the posterson the walls to see what games stand to be broadcast.QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. AWChurchesHoly Trinity Church (Kościół Św. Trójcy) ul. Farna 6, tel.061 426 15 55. An interesting church with a Gothic tower whosekey feature is a ‘millennium clock’ complete with a moving figureof St Adalbert. Much of the church was destroyed by fire and itsinteriors were thereafter treated with a baroque brush. Outside arethe only skeletal remains of the ancient city walls which once ringedGniezno. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.MuseumsMuseum of Gniezno Archdiocese (Muzeum ArchidiecezjiGnieźnieńskiej) ul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. 061 42637 78, www.muzeumag.pl. If you’re eyes are still hankeringfor the sight of more treasure then head here to view a lavishcollection of ecclesiastical riches: gold goblets, embroideredvestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffinportraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belongedto St. Adalbert are all presented here. An absolute feast for theeyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs.QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. From May Open09:00-17:00, Sun 09:00-16:00. Admission 4/3zł.The Museum of the Origins of the Polish State(Muzeum Początków Państwa Polskiego) ul.Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. 061 426 46 41, www.mppp.pl.Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle this museum featuresnumerous audio-visual presentations designed to appealto the numerous school trips that file through the doors, aswell copies of archaeological relics dating back to the foundingof the Polish state - that means lots of pots, vases, bowls anddaggers. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From May Open09:30-17:30. Mon closed.Last entrance 30 minutes beforeclosing. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 18zł, group ticket over10 people 5,50/3,50zł per person, Sun free.Old townGniezno received its city charter in 1285, and as with all towns theaction came firmly centred around the market square (Rynek). Thegreat fire of Gniezno in 1819 gutted this area, and most buildingshave been rebuilt since that day. Look closely and you’ll see redbricks marking what once formed the town perimeter, as well asnameplates dedicated to the cities and firms who have fundedmore recent restoration work. The little pyramid structures denotewhere the town gates once were. What remains of the old city wallscan be found south of the Rynek close to ul. Słomianki and theHoly Trinity Church. You’ll notice religious buildings at every turn,though predictably none representing the Jewish faith; the townsone synagogue suffered a fiery fate after a high-ranking nazi officialbroke his leg while clambering up it in a post-party alcoholic stupor.Infuriated by his misfortune the budding fascist ordered the buildingsdestruction. In recent years the towns finest moment camewhen the Congress of Gniezno was held here in 2000. The leadersof Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia met inGniezno to celebrate the town millennium, and in a symbol of unityplanted five oak trees in the ‘reconciliation valley’ running north ofthe Rynek. The German chancellor later dined in the restaurant ofthe Hotel Pietrak (itself a former vodka factory), and diners havethe opportunity to order exactly what he ate.The Gniezno Cathedral (ArchikatedraGnieźnieńska) ul. Łaskiego 9, tel. 061 426 19 09.Gniezno’s cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home ofPoland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s first five kingswere crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guidedtour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, whilea follow up solo tour allows you to take stock of the richesand relics before you.Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of thecathedral is the ‘Gniezno doors’, a pair of winged bronzedoors dating from the 12th century, and it’s here you’ll beginyour tour. Regarded as one of the most important piecesof Romanesque art in Poland the doors feature 18 panels,each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of StAdalbert. Start from Adalbert’s birth on the bottom left panel,and then follow his story upwards and around. Of note are anexorcism illustrated on the sixth panel, and his murder on thefourteenth. That’s his head on a stick in the next.Now, here’s the interesting part. This might be one of themost important treasures in Poland, but no-one has a cluewho designed it. In fact, it’s highly likely the pair of doorsweren’t even made together. Look closely and you’ll see thatthe left side is higher and wider, as well as more detailed inits engravings, indicating that the set of doors are possiblythe work of a master and his apprentice. We do know theyprobably originated in Germany, but the trail stops there.The portal that frames the door is worth further investigationin its own right. Dating from 1400 it features an engraving ofJesus sitting on a rainbow (rainbows were believed to markthe entrance to heaven). The two swords in his mouth aresymbolic of the power he wields in both heaven and earth,while the animals carved in stone represent human vices - forinstance the rabbit is cowardice, the squirrel greed and thefox cunning. Keep your eyes peeled for the scratching on theleft side - what looks like the work of a vandals key is actuallythe sign of the craftsmen who built the portal (in those daysartists marked their work with a sign, not a signature).Next up on your tour is a trip to the crypt. In it there’s Poland’soldest gravestone, as well as the remains of a fireplace thatpre-dates the cathedral - indication that the site was mostprobably a pagan place of worship. Early foundations anddetails have also been excavated, and one can view remainsof an early alter, walls and tiled flooring (whose patterning iscopied on the ten złoty note). It’s here you’ll also be able toview the coffins of the past primates of Poland, as well as acollection of mysterious looking urns and pots.And so, onto the cathedral proper. Recently subject torenovation work Gniezno Cathedral looks finer than ever.Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the cathedral hasbeen patched up and embellished over the course of time,and nowadays it is the baroque flourishes that steal the show.It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of must seedetails, and it’s at this stage where having a guide becomesTourist informationTourist Information Centre Rynek 14, tel. 061428 41 00, www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl. An Aladdin’scave of Gniezno related info. Expect English languagepamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel andrestaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy ofan amicable young team of local enthusiasts.QOpen08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From April Open 09:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-14:00.invaluable. First off, you’llhave differences betweenthe nave and presbyterypointed out - the style ofthe former suggests it wasbuilt in Germany, while thelatter has a design morefamiliar with English andFrench workshops. The 13arcades around the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus andthe 12 apostles, and there’s a heavy emphasis on allegoricalsymbolism.Head to the furthest side chapel on the left of the main entranceto see paintings of Polish saints, passing on your wayone of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Krakow.In total the cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels, whomwhen grouped together constitute the largest collection ofecclesiastical grating in the country. Behind these metalgrills are a number of points of interest, including a miracleworking crucifix found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross hasaccompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17thcentury when it was first seen to bleed.The confession, situated at the top end of the cathedral, isstunning, and said to be modelled on the Confession of StPeter’s in Rome. Behind it is the silver sarcophagus of StAdalbert, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter vanRennen. Considered the most important relic in the countrythe silver coffin is balanced on six eagles, and carried on thefigures of a priest, peasant, townsperson and knight.Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view thelibrary. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (datingfrom 880AD), a papal edict that features the first recordeduse of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned byPoland’s former regents. As frustrating as this locked doorpolicy is it’s fully understandable. The cathedral has hadmisfortune served up by the spade. Its significance to thePolish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’sbeen burned, looted, battered and destroyed on numerousoccasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while the‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no apparent reason.The Nazis, on the other hand, had other plans. Hitler’s portraitreplaced that of St Adalbert and the cathedral was earmarked toserve as a concert venue for high ranking fascists. However, onthe opening night, just when these Nazi nabobs were settling intotheir seats a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall, disappearinginto the crypt below. Shots were fired at the unannouncedgatecrasher, but none hit their mark. Was this a ghostly apparition,or simply the work of a local prankster? Thoroughly spooked theNazis weren’t hanging around to find out, and plans to turn thecathedral into a concert hall were shelved thereafter.Although the German occupiers refused to set foot in thecathedral it still wasn’t safe from their beastly designs.Employing Volksdeutsch workers they set about strippingthe building of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping offcountless treasures to shady vaults. The confession escapedthem, however, hidden single-handedly by one conscientiousworker. The organ too survived, only to be blown to smithereensby the Soviets in 1945. The bell shared the same fate,and the original one now lies outside the main entrance. Thebell tower is open in better weather and its 214 steps lead topanoramic views across town. What you won’t find however isa bell - ever since the Russians re-arranged the cathedral allthe bells have been housed in a separate building. Q Open09:00 - 11:45, 13:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From May Open09:00 - 11:45, 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

ISSN 1896-116978ŁÓDŹŁódź In Your PocketYour first lesson in Polish.Łódź may look like it’s pronouncedLodz, but it mostcertainly isn’t. Think of it asWoodge, and three hundredyears ago a visit here wouldhave produced the sight oflittle more than one man andhis dog. In terms of age Łódźis one of the youngest citiesin the country, and a directproduct of the IndustrialRevolution. And while Łódźcannot boast the twee charismaof Prague and Krakówa scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid travellerwith a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history andsome of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’llfind them all inside the current issue of Łódź In YourPocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-languageguide to the city.Getting thereŁódź lies South East of Poznań and is easily accessed by train. Ifyou’re travelling from Poznań you’ll need to book a ticket runningto Łódź Kaliska train station, allowing approximately four hoursfor journey time. Only a few trains a day run from Poznań, so ifyou’re determined to get there then your best bet will be goingvia Warsaw. If travelling from the capital you’ll need a ticket toŁódź Fabryczna station. The city centre is directly across theroad from the main entrance: take the underpass and carryon walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street,ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxisstand directly outside the main entrance, though travellersshould only use cabs that are clearly marked. Those taking thePoznań train will arrive at Łódź Kaliska station, approximatelytwo kilometres from the centre. Taxis stand outside and youshould pay no more than 15zł to get to the city centre.Some basicsŁódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the nameof Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater forthe following centuries, with a population numbering just 800as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as weknow it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopherand writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn theRussian-controlled city into a manufacturing centre. The firstcotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steampoweredfactory in Poland was officially christened. A massiveinflux of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England andFrance flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’spopulation remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within amatter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textileproduction centre in the Russian Empire, during which timevast fortunes were made by the major industrialist families.By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of themost densely populated cities on the planet with a populationof approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war yearssignaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss ofRussian and German economic markets led to strikes andcivil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź.Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII sawthe city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six yearsof occupation left the population decimated with 120,000Poznań In Your PocketHotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events MapsN°9 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)www.inyourpocket.comŁÓDŹJanuary - April 2009RadogoszczThe prison and its storyŁódź in aNutshellThe best of a cityshrunk to fitPoles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing inwhat was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto.Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź wasused as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesalewar-time destruction of Warsaw also saw many of Poland’seminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearestbig city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast arich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, oneof the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and anexciting underground culture.Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidenceand coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlookedby many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms:from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-richindustrialists who made the city, to Europe’s longest pedestrianstreet (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe.You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in ourprint guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.ManufakturaHow many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura,for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeedmore than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’tbe calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of150,000m 2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mallwith endless shopping opportunities, but that would nottell the full story.Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovationproject since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructedin the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of theold factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed.Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to filethrough everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive atthe projects ground zero: the 30,000m 2 Rynek (main square).Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the culturalhub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowdedaround it. A full program of events is planned to keep thingslively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screenshowings of sports events.With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radiusManufaktura expect 15 million visitors in the first year alone.For the more languorous character two electric tramlineshave also been added to ferry visitors from one end of thecomplex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufakturaremains very much a work in progress; further additionsinclude the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Millinto a conference centre, office block and a four star hotel,as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children’smuseum and technological museum.poznan.inyourpocket.com

80 GETTING AROUNDGETTING AROUND81Car rentalAvis ul. Bukowska 285,(Ławica Airport), tel. 061849 23 35, www.avis.pl.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.Telephone line manned 24 hrs a day.Budget ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 0 60135 46 89, www.budget.pl. Phone reservations recommendedon weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun10:00 - 18:00.Europcar ul.Bukowska 285(Ławica Airport),tel. 061 849 2357, www.europcar.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30.Hertz ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 86841 77, www.hertz.com.pl. Twenty-four hour number 0 60515 04 23. Q Open 08:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun14:00 - 17:00.Lucas Car Rental ul. Rolna 35 (Wilda), tel. 061 67075 75, www.lucasrental.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Sun open on request.National ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061849 23 84, www.nationalcar.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 -17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sat, Sun Open on request.Sixt ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 84714 68, www.sixt.pl. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 -18:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 18:30.By busPoznań lies on the main highway (E30) between Warsaw andBerlin, and is served by frequent Eurolines buses. While thebus station is not one of the most modern you are likely tovisit, it does have all the services you will need includingtoilets, tourist information and left luggage lockers.Eurolines C-3, ul. Półwiejska 41, tel. 061 853 12 28,www.eurolinespolska.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy)F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 05:30 - 19:30, Sat,Sun 06:30-19:30.By carDriving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highwaybetween Warsaw and Berlin. Driving around Poznań’s one waystreets can be trying and as the Market Square is closed totraffic you may have to drive half way around the city to getfrom one side to the other.Most parking spaces in Poznań are paid and marked by a blueline. Fancy parking meters need chip-cards, costing 1.20zł/half hour and 2.40zł/hour weekdays 10:00 - 18:00 and Sat10:00 - 14:00. Chip cards are sold in some shops, cafés andfrom the parking authority SOP. A combination of traffic jamsand car crime make it advisable to leave your car in one ofthe guarded car parks dotted around the city and use thelocal transport system to get around.Guarded Parking G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36.Guarded Parking E-3, ul. Roosvelta (Hotel Mercure).Public transportPoznań is criss-crossed by 20 tram routes (of which one runsat night), and 56 bus lines (21 at night). During the day theserun from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams running approximatelyevery ten minutes, and buses every twelve.When buying a ticket travellersare presented with a galaxy ofoptions. Fares are as follows:Tram/bus tickets:Journeys of up to fifteen minutes:2.00zł (concessions 1.00zł)Up to 30 minutes:3.60zł (1.80zł)Up to 60 minutes:5.80zł (2.90zł)There are also express lines which run to the airport amongstother places and whose numbers are prefixed with either‘A’, ‘P’ or ‘L’.Express lines for up to 15 minutes: 4.00zł (2.00zł)Express lines for up to 30 minutes: 7.20zł (3.60zł)Express lines for up to 60 minutes: 11.60zł (5.80zł)Tickets valid for 24 hours are also available (13.20zł/6.60zł),as are weekly passes (32zł/16zł).If you thought it couldn’t get anymore complicated you’d bewrong. Those using the bus (and bus only), can also choosefrom one ride tickets for up to ten stops (2.20zł/1.10zł), forover ten stops (3.70zł/1.85zł), as well as express and seasonallines for up to ten stops (4.20zł/2.10zł), and over tenstops (7.00zł/3.50zł).Children under four and adults over 70 travel for free, and discountsare available for students aged under 26 and youthsin possession of an ISIC card. Tickets can be purchased fromthe newsagent kiosks around town and the Polish word forticket is ‘bilet’.Long term visitors can also buy a KOMkarta, an electronic cardthat is valid for 30 days. These can be purchased from oneof the eleven MPK ticket points in the city, and then toppedup in the same place, or at one of the Ruch kiosks you seearound the town.Our advice if you are here for a fewdays is to pick up the Poznan CityCard which gives you free unlimiteduse of the public transport systemas part of the price. It’ll save anawful lot of headaches.It is extremely important that you remember to validate yourticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. If you don’t have a valid ticketand find yourself nicked by a plain clothes inspector you’ll befined 100zł on the spot. Many don’t look very official so youare within your rights to ask for their ID. You can opt to paywithin seven days (in which case the fine rises to 140zł), orwithin 14 days (200zł).Foreigners thinking they can slip out of the country withoutpaying up are in for a nasty surprise. You’re passportdetails will have been noted, and border guards will gleefullyplace you in custody - it’s not worth the trouble, trustus. Finally, although crime is rare be on guard againstpickpockets, particularly if making the journey to andfrom the airport.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

82 GETTING AROUNDAirlinesUnless stated otherwise the following offices are based inWarsaw. Phone numbers listed are central call centres andall should have English-speaking staff. For full local flightschedule visit www.airport-poznan.com.pl.Aer Lingus tel. 022 626 84 02, www.aerlingus.com.Aeroflot al. Jerozolimskie 29, tel. 022 628 25 57/022628 17 10, www.aeroflot.com.Air Europa ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 022 455 3840/022 455 38 44, www.aireuropa.com.Air France ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 556 64 00,fax 022 556 64 15, www.airfrance.com.Alitalia ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 692 82 85, www.alitalia.it.American Airlines al. Ujazdowskie 20, tel. 022 62530 02, www.aa.com.Austrian Airlines ul. Sienna 39, tel. 022 627 52 90,www.austrianairlines.pl.Belavia ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 65023 14, www.belavia.by.British Airways ul. Krucza 49, tel. 022 529 90 00,www.ba.com.Centralwings tel. 801 45 45 45, www.centralwings.com.CSA pl. Zawiszy 1 (Jan III Sobieski Hotel), tel. 659 6799/668 74 71, www.csa.cz.easyJet www.easyjet.com.European Air Express tel. 071 358 11 00, www.eae.aero.MinibusesBiznestransport ul. Trakt Lubelski 358, Warsaw, tel.0 505 31 16 99, www.biznestransport.pl. Save considerablesums, and even time, on train travel by hiring a minibus totravel inter-city. Full size luxury buses and limousines are alsoavailable and these guys can also stretch to courier servicesand even warehousing. Q Open 24hrs.TaxisMost taxis these days are reliable and use their metres butbe aware of rogue taxis which hang around train stationsand certain hotels. Make sure that your cab as a sign onthe roof marked with the name of the company rather thanjust a simple ‘taxi’ sign. Once inside make sure the driverturns on the metre and you should be fine. Under Polish lawthe driver should now have a cash register in the cab and isobliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. You shouldexpect to pay 5zl on entering the taxi followed by 2zl perkilometre. Prices rise at weekends and late at night and fortravel outside of the city limits. Taxis are obliged to displaytheir prices in the windows of the cab so you can compare andcheck prices. Note that many firms offer a discount to theirpublished prices if you phone and book one in advance.Travelling on?Online guides to Poland atwww.inyourpocket.comPoznań In Your PocketEurowings ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (airport), tel. 071357 70 03, www.eurowings.de. Lufthansa agent.Finnair ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Plaza), tel. 022 657 0129, www.finnair.com.Germanwings www.germanwings.com.LOT ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport, Poznań), tel.022 95 72/0 801 70 37 03, www.lot.com.Lufthansa ul. Sienna 39 (Warsaw Towers), tel. 022338 13 00, www.lufthansa.pl.Norwegian Air Shuttle ASA www.norwegian.no.RyanAir www.ryanair.com.SAS ul. Sienna 39 (Warsaw Towers), tel. 022 850 0500, www.scandinavian.net.SkyEurope ul. Żwirki Wigury 1 (Courtyard by Marriott),tel. 022 433 07 33, www.skyeurope.com.Swiss ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 697 6600, www.swiss.com.Wizz Air tel. 022 351 94 99, www.wizzair.com.Express Taxi , tel. 061 96 24, www.taxiexpress.pl.Also vans and microbuses.Hallo Taxi , tel. 061 96 23.M1 taxi , tel. 061 96 69/061 822 22 22.MPT Taxi , tel. 061 91 91.Radio Lux Taxi , tel. 061 96 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl. Poznan’s most reliable taxi firm. All taxis are Mercedesand drivers wear a collar and tie. Ordering a taxi in Polandcan still be a lottery as there are no apparent standardsfor how the taxi should look so if you want to make surethat you or your guest is picked up by something thatdoesn’t look like it has a dog sleeping in the back youshould really give these guys a call. They also acceptcredit cards.Radio Taxi Poznań , tel. 061 96 22, www.taxi.com.pl.Travel agenciesAlmatur B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 9/43, tel. 061 855 76 33,www.almatur.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.Closed Sun.Blue Sky Travel F-2, ul. Roosevelta 2, tel. 061 841 0900, www.bluesky.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun.Fly Away Travel D-1, ul. Wroniecka 17, tel. 061 85303 57, www.flyaway.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. ClosedSat, Sun.Orbis Travel C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 21, tel. 061 85120 00, www.orbistravel.poznan.pl. Q Open 09:30-17:30,Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun.Tui Centrum Podróży E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 7, tel. 061847 11 78, www.tui.pl/wct. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.poznan.inyourpocket.com

84 GETTING AROUNDTrain scheduleFrom PoznańTo PoznańDep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.10:27 13:15 BERLIN Ostbf 06:40 09:2714:27 17:27 BERLIN Hbf 12:29 15:2702:02 09:18 KRAKÓW 05:47 13:1205:47 13:19 KRAKÓW 07:47 15:1207:35 15:19 KRAKÓW 12:47 20:1112:35 20:18 KRAKÓW 15:47 23:0708:23 14:18 GDYNIA 04:37 09:3712:23 18:22 GDYNIA 10:31 15:3418:10 00:12 GDYNIA 14:30 19:3002:20 06:05 WARSAW 05:55 09:1907:00 10:00 WARSAW 07:35 10:2409:30 12:20 WARSAW 09:55 13:2810:26 14:05 WARSAW 12:35 15:2612:30 15:20 WARSAW 13:35 16:3515:30 18:20 WARSAW(1) 15:35 18:2118:30 21:25 WARSAW 17:35 20:3019:30 22:20 WARSAW 18:00 21:3202:02 04:32 WROCŁAW 06:35 09:1206:45 09:20 WROCŁAW 10:06 12:2707:35 10:20 WROCŁAW 10:35 13:1209:40 12:20 WROCŁAW 12:35 15:1212:35 15:18 WROCŁAW 14:06 16:2713:46 16:50 WROCŁAW 14:35 17:1514:35 17:20 WROCŁAW 15:35 18:0715:35 18:02 WROCŁAW 15:54 18:5718:35 21:19 WROCŁAW 16:35 19:1518:45 21:50 WROCŁAW 17:35 20:1119:45 22:20 WROCŁAW 19:35 22:12(1) - Mon - Fri, SunMost trains running to and from Gdynia (Berlin apart)stop at Gdańsk and Sopot. Journey time is 30 minutesto Gdańsk and 10 to Sopot.Trains are subject to change on public holidays.Train schedule is subject to change due to ongoingworks (track improvements).For a full schedule check www.pkp.plBy trainThe main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite thefairgrounds and about 10 minutes by taxi from the Market Square.There is a Poznań City Information (Informacja Miejska Poznan)counter in the station, however your best bet is Glob-Tour, a privatetourist office-cum-bookshop that sells guides, maps and organisesapartment rental. Glob-Tour also exchanges currency. If you areonly staying for a couple of hours leave your luggage in the leftluggage room (przechowalnia bagażu). It costs 2zł per item perday plus 1.5% of value in your bag; Open 06:00 to 22:30. Tram andbus tickets can be bought from the MPK kiosk on the right whenleaving the train station building, open 06:00 - 20:00.Tickets for domestic trains can be bought at windows N°2-14in the main hall and while most are open 24hrs you will findqueues. Do allow yourself time to get your ticket although itis now possible to purchase tickets on board the train for asmall fee. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows,but talk to the information office first.Trains are reached by heading into the tunnel under the Relay newsagentswhere you will see signs for the different platforms (peron).The station has a coffee shop, KFC and a few snack barsbut if you have time to kill, it is recommended to take the10 minute walk over to the nearby Sheraton where you canwait for your train in comfortable surroundings without beingbothered by beggars every 2 minutes.Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl.Poznań In Your PocketTrain smartsThe Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even ifthe rolling stock is by and large something you may havetravelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better thanBritain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run on time, arecheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are generally prettyslow even on express and Intercity trains with limited highspeedsections of track throughout the country. That isbeing remedied but in turn this is causing increased travellingtimes on many lines. Tickets are by western standards verycheap with a first -class ticket to Krakow from Warsaw forinstance setting you back about 130zl (about €35).The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several typesof train. Intercity (also known as Eurocity or just IC) trainsare the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot,with first and second class compartments holding up tosix people. New rolling stock is appearing with open carriagesand 220v AV sockets. Ekspress are supposed tobe older and slower and pack more people into less spacethan the former, but this distinction is slowly disappearingas both tracks and rolling stock get older. Use either ofthe above for long-distance journeys. Both come withdining carriages, though be warned, anyone falling asleepwill incur the full wrath of the steward. Smokers shouldnot make the mistake of booking a seat in a smokingcompartment - you will die within minutes. Cheapskateslooking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaperTanie Linie Kolejowe (TLK), Pospieszny (posp) or Osobowy(os.) trains; you will pay buttons for the privilege, but yourjourney is guaranteed to try your good humour.With the exception of pociąg osobowy trains, ticketprices include a seperate seat reservation charge. Moreinformation on train times and prices check the veryuseful www.pkp.pl which has an English option. Thereis the functionality to book tickets online once you haveregistered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp) butyou will need the help of a Polish speaker present. Thisoption allows you to book a ticket and seat in one withoutthe hassle of queuing at the station.If you find yourself faced with long queues in the trainstation then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on thedesired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor.You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 8zł), andcredit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expectedto greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dziendobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passengerwill help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage.Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may havethe misfortune of sharing a compartment with a womanwho has no qualms with silencing errant children with athump to the head. Or even worse, sharing a compartmentwith perky army discharges. Upgrading to first class for acursory fee is usually enough to avoid these pitfalls.Finally most stations throughout the country are appallinglacking in signs denoting the station name andit’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicatingwith your fellow passengers can save a lot of time andfrustration.Arrivals PrzyjazdyDepartures OdjazdyPlatform Peronpoznan.inyourpocket.com

86 MAIL & PHONESSHOPPING87Here you’ll find all the information you need from the piratesat TPSA who’ll require you to mortgage your house tophone home to the minefield that is the Polish Post Office.We’ll tell you where to do it and how with the least amountof hassle possibleExpress mailDHL ul. Komornicka 1, Głuchowo, tel. 0 801 34 53 45,www.dhl.com.pl. A damn site easier and quicker then usingthe bog standard post. That said its also not the cheapestway to send your bits and bobs. Biggest plus is they will atleast to communicate with you in English. QOpen 08:00 -19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.EMS Pocztex , tel. 0 804 10 41 04, www.pocztex.pl.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.TNT ul. Wybieg 5/9 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 2500, www.tnt.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. ClosedSat, Sun.UPS ul. Bałtycka 6 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 815 14 00,www.ups.com.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.Closed Sun.Internet cafesCafe Cz@towa ul. Głogowska 142 (Grunwald), tel.061 661 55 31. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.3.50zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning services available.Ecafe F-3, ul. Roosevelta 10/5, tel. 061 843 26 69,www.ecafe.net.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun11:00 - 23:00. 4zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning servicesavailable.PostThe going price for a non-priority letter under 20g:Poland 1.35złEurope 2.40złthe rest of the world 2.50złMain Post Office (Główny Urząd Pocztowy) A-2, ul.Kościuszki 77, tel. 061 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. If you read the introduction above you’ll already have avivid picture of what to expect. Poznan is no exception to therule. You can expect to play musical windows for the best partof half an hour followed by a short lesson in the customersalways wrong. Keep smiling and they may let you out alive.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Post Office C-1, ul. 23 Lutego 28, tel. 061 886 55 01,www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00- 14:00. Closed Sun.Prepaid cardsCountry codesAustralia 61Austria 43Belgium 32Bulgaria 359Canada 1Czech Rep. 420Denmark 45France 33Polish city codesGdańsk 58Katowice 32Kraków 12Łódź 42Lublin 81Wi-fi accessGermany 49Greece 30Hungary 36Ireland 353Israel 972Italy 39Japan 81Netherlands 31Poznań 61Rzeszów 17Szczecin 97Warsaw 22Wrocław 71Poland 48Romania 40Russia 7Spain 34Sweden 46UK 44Ukraine 380USA 1If you’re travelling with the laptop then you’ll find a growing numberof internet hotspots in and around central Poznań. All three ofPoland’s mobile networks offer Wi-Fi connection, and you will beable to go online in most of their major retail outlets.W Throughout our guide we have highlighted thoseestablishments (hotels, cafés, restaurants and bars) whichoffer wireless free internet connection. This covers bothfree access, where you are likely to need a network key andpassword from the bar/reception, and paid access where youwill have to buy a card. Most places will have cards availablefor sale. A typical choice is the cards necessary for Orangehotspots. You can buy a card for a straight 2 hours connectionor you can pay 19zł for a card which allows you 2 hoursconnection over a period of 2 months. Useful if you don’t wantto use up 2 hours wi-fi time in one go. In both cases you will begiven a scratch card which carries a number. Open an explorerwindow and follow the on-screen instructions.Post Office (Poczta Polska) os. Orła Białego 3 (NoweMiasto), tel. 061 886 57 01, www.poczta-polska.pl.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Post Office D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061 886 55 19,www.poczta-polska.pl. The post office in the old town area.Send and receive packages and letters from windows N°1-3,and buy stamps at N°2 and 3. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Avoid steep roaming costs when visiting Poland by buying a prepaid SIM card and sticking it in your mobile. Several companies nowoffer a prepaid service. Below is a comparative list of what it costs to set up and use each of them. Top-ups are available in mostpress kiosks unless otherwise noted. All prices quoted are for peak time calls and were correct at the time of going to press.CardPrice Local LondonTop-upSMS Coverage(zł) (zł/min) (zł/min)(zł)(zł) (%)Orange 5/10/20 0.65 2.71 5/25/50/100 0.20 97Heyah 5/20 0.68 1.71 5/20/30/50 0.20 95Era Tak Tak 9/20 0.77 2.83 5/25/50/100/150 0.22 95Simplus 9/18 0.78 2.06 5/10/30/40/50/60/80/100/150 0.20 99.5Sami Swoi 9.99 0.66 2.00 10/20/40/80/160 0.24 99.5Play 9/30 0.59 1.60 10/30/50/100/150 0.18 99.5Mobilking 20 0.39 2.00 10/20/50 0.15 99Subscribers to Heyah benefit from a 'równa taryfa' tariff - calls to all EU countries are priced at 0.44zł per minute, andeach SMS 0.14zł per message.Despite the rumors you may have heard Poland does nowhave toilet roll, in fact Poland represents somewhat of ashoppers paradise. A fantastic selection of shops, andgenerally cheaper or, much cheaper then the prices you’llfind at home. Poles are particularly fashion conscious andaccordingly there is a dazzling array of clothes to choosefrom.AntiquesAntykwariat (Antiques) B-2, ul. Kantaka 10, tel.061 851 88 10. Solid collection of antiques collected byPiotr Sobisiak. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.Closed Sun.Antykwariat Kolekcjoner (Antique Shop) D-1,ul. Kramarska 20, tel. 061 853 07 82. Eclectic mix ofantiques with antique Roman coins. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Desa D-2, ul. Wielka 24, tel. 061 851 53 91, www.desa.art.pl. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.Closed Sun.Filatelistyka B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 37, tel. 061 853 6368. Coins and stamps in the courtyard. QOpen 10:00 -17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Galeria Michał Skowron D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3,tel. 061 853 01 97, www.galeriaskowron.pl. Classyold furniture. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.Closed Sun.Horn D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 42, tel. 061 851 56 27.Antiques and an art gallery on the main square. QOpen11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Books & PaperEmpik C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061667 12 00, www.empik.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun10:00 - 20:00.Ksiegarnia Powszechna (World Bookshop) C-2, ul.Stary Rynek 63, tel. 061 851 82 07, www.powszechna.pl. Your one stop shop for intellectual stimulation. A largebookshop in a prime spot with late opening hours. Thereis a wide selection of English-langage books near the backand to the left on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,Sun 11:00 - 18:00.Ksiegarnia Uniwersytecka (University Bookshop)E-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 7, tel. 061 847 0281, www.ksiegarnia-uam.win.pl. The main universitybookshop. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:30.Closed Sun.Omnibus B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 39, tel. 061 853 61 82,www.omnibus.com.pl. Language books. QOpen 10:00 -19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.ClothesErmenegildo Zegna C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel.061 852 14 22, www.zegna.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Max Mara C-2, ul. Paderewskeigo 8 (Bazar Poznański),tel. 061 852 12 51, www.clubmode.pl. Also on ul.Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Mode Boutique C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. 061852 66 07. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.Closed Sun.Paryżanka-Moschino C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7(Pasaż Niebieski), tel. 061 852 28 70. Also on ul.Ratajczaka 45. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.Closed Sun.Stary Browar shopping mallStary Browar ShoppingMall G-4, ul.Półwiejska 42, tel. 061859 60 50, www.starybrowar.pl.Housed in anold brewery dating from1844, theaward-winning Stary Browarcomplex has been dubbed an art, leisure and shoppingextravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’seconomic renaissance. Its completion also marks a moveaway from out-of-town developments, and a new trendfor inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to theHuggera Brewery, the building has always cast a hugeinfluence on the city with beer production hitting 72,000hectalitres in 1918. Even under German occupation thebuilding continued to churn out piwo, with production onlyceasing in 1944 when the basement was converted intobunkers and air-raid shelters.Heavily damaged in the siege of Poznań the hulk of abuilding finally stopped brewing beer in 1980. StaryBrowar carried on operating at a fraction of its capacityproducing mineral water, though it was only in 1998 thatit was finally awarded a new lease of life. Bought by theFortis group, an original investment of US$66 million sawthe building transformed. Opened amid much fanfare inNovember 2003 the shopping mall now covers an areaof over 100,000m2, and draws an average of 40,000people daily. With over 210 retail units, including theVan Graaf designer store, bookshops and Alma gourmetdelicatessen, the complex has become one of the mosttalked about developments in the country.The complex won the prize for the world’s best shoppingcentre in the ‘new centre medium’ category, as judgedby award the International Council of Shopping Centres(ICSC). Summer 2007 marked the completion of phaseII of the Stary Browar project - the expansion of a newwing, thereby nearly doubling SB in size. QOpen 09:00- 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.FlowersBaccara - Art B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 21, tel. 061 85371 78. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. ClosedSun.Kwiaciarnia Lewkonia A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 63, tel.061 853 78 38, www.kwiaciarnialewkonia.com. Sendflowers to your loved ones through the Euroflorist. QOpen09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Poczta Kwiatowa , tel. 022 828 95 95, www.pocztakwiatowa.pl.Flowers, fruits and vegetables. QOpen08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.FurnitureAbra ul. Szwajcarska 14 (Nowe Miasto-Rataje), tel. 061652 77 11, www.abra-meble.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00,Sun 10:00 - 19:00.Ikea ul. Szwedzka 10 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 650 7100, www.ikea.pl. Assemble your own furniture. QOpen10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.Mebest ul. Obornicka 245 (Stare Miasto), tel. 061825 05 77, www.mebest.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

88 SHOPPINGDIRECTORY89HypermarketsAuchan ul. Głogowska 432 (Grunwald-Komorniki), tel.061 656 86 44, www.auchan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,Sun 09:00 - 20:00.Real ul. Szwajcarska 14 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061874 56 00, www.real.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun09:00 - 21:00.Perfume & BeautyD’or C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. 061 852 85 53,www.perfumeriador.eu. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00- 15:00. Closed Sun.Escada C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 852 2188, www.escada.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00- 16:00. Closed Sun.L’Occitane C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary BrowarShopping Mall),, tel. 061 667 13 47, www.loccitane.com. Drawing inspiration from Mediterranean art de vivre,L’occitane creates beauty products devoted to your well-beingand that of the environment, rich in active natural ingredientsand oils and dermatologist-tested - not animal-tested.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.Marionnaud C-3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 85089 01, www.marionnaud.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun11:00 - 19:00.www.inyourpocket.comMydlarnia C-2, ul. Wrocławska 8, tel. 0 501 64 61 19,www.mydlarniapoznan.republika.pl. QOpen 10:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Sabon G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061859 62 88, www.sabon.pl. Choosing a gift is often quitea challenging experience so the opening of the latest in achain of Sabon outlets, this time in Poznan’s Stary Browarshopping mall, should make this easier. Sabon means ‘soap’in Hebrew and the store offers a comprehensive range ofentirely natural products comprising of soaps, scrubs andbath and body products. The soaps themselves are madeusing a 70-year old Australian recipe and ingredients includeDead Sea extracts, aromatherapy oils as well as herbs andflowers from the Israeli countryside. All the soaps are madeat a co-operative in Northern Israel and are shipped aroundthe world.Sabon in Poznan is now one of over 50 stores worldwidewhich were founded in Israel. The first store opened therein 1997 with other branches now in New York amongst others.The first store opened in Poland on St. Valentine’s day2004 in Wrocław and you’ll now find them also in Warsawas well as Poznań.One of the biggest boons for those looking to buy gifts is theaward winning packaging which include vintage apothecarystyle glass jars. Sabon pride themselves on their opposition toanimal testing and the fact that all their products and packagingare made from recyclable and biodegradable products.Check out their selection in either the Stary Browar shoppingmall (G-4) or online at www.sabon.pl QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,Sun 10:00 - 20:00.Sephora ul. Głogowska 348 (Komorniki), tel. 061 89366 70, www.sephora.pl. Also at ul. Szwajcarska 41 (NoweMiasto). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00.Shopping mallsCH Panorama ul. Górecka 30 (Wilda), tel. 061 65001 03, www.galeriapanorama.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,Sun 10:00 - 19:00.King Cross Marcelin E-3, ul. Bukowska 156, tel. 061886 04 02, www.kingcrossmarcelin.com.pl. QOpen09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.Pasaż Rondo J-2, ul. Zamenhofa 133, tel. 061 87422 90, www.pasazrondo.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun10:00 - 18:00.SouvenirsCepelia D-2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. 061 852 58 14,www.cepelia.pl. A leading chain of souvenir shops sellingnative arts and handicrafts. Also at ul. Woźna 12 (H-3; 061852 07 94) and ul. Ratajczaka (Żabikowo; 061 853 15 99).QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.SpecialityWine Shop G-3, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53,www.domvikingow.pl. Global wines for purchase at theback end of the Dom Vikingow complex. QOpen 12:00 -18:00.Tax refundNon-EU residents can claim VAT refunds on purchasesmade in shops bearing the Global Refund logo. The onlycondition is a minimum outlay of 200zł on your part on theitem purchased. Claim your Global Refund cheque, have itstamped at customs before claiming your money back atyour nearest cash refund office. For full details check www.globalrefund.com.Whether a traveller or an ex-pat our directory has manyuseful contacts for you. Click on the left for listings.Remember to email us if you find any of our contactspaticularly helpful or, for that matter, unhelpful. We alsowelcome new additions.24-hour pharmaciesApteka Centralna C-1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. 061 85226 25. Q Open 24 hrs.Apteka Galenica C-3, ul. Strzelecka 2/6, tel. 061 85299 22, www.aptekagalenica.pl. Q Open 24hrs.Business facilitiesDomina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2,tel. 061 859 05 90, www.dominahotels.pl. DominaResidence in Poznań will be offering conference facilities forup to 25 people with multimedia projectors, wifi, cordlessmicrophones, full speaker system, 3 x 2.5m projector screensand a 50” plasma screen. For further information pleasecontact Łukasz Uliszewski at Domina Residence.Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061858 70 00, www.orbisonline.pl.Sheraton Poznan Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel.061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. A choice of7 conference rooms ranging from 35 to 210m in size withvideoconferencing and wifi available.Consulates & EmbassiesCzech Republic F-3, ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 2292. Honorary consulate, open every day 10:00 -18:00.Denmark E-5, ul. Strusia 10, tel. 061 866 26 28. Honoraryconsulate. To contact the consul, call first to arrangea meeting.DentistsRadus C-3, ul. Szymańskiego 7/3, tel. 061 855 12 43,www.radus.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 -14:00. Closed Sun.GenealogyNational Archives B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 41/43, tel. 061852 46 01, www.poznan.ap.gov.pl.Language schoolsBerlitz G-4, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 850 95 95,www.berlitz.pl.EMPiK B-1, ul. 27 grudnia 17/19 (2nd floor), tel. 061851 00 62, www.empik.edu.pl. 30/05 p.r. they have alsodivision on ul. Św. Marcin 46/50, and ul. Ratajczaka 44Local governmentPoznań City Hall H-3, Pl. Kolegiacki 17, tel. 061 878 5200, www.poznan.pl. Ryszard Grobelny mayor 061 878 55 06.Department of Information and Development: 061 878 56 95.Department of Culture and Art: 061 878 54 55. Department ofSports, Recreation and Tourism: 061 878 53 51.Places of worshipMuslim Culture & Recreation Centre(Muzułmańskie Centrum Kulturalno-Oświatowe)ul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Wilda), tel. 0 507 75 43 01, www.islam.org.pl. Q Services on Fridays at 13:00.Private clinicsKlinika Grunwaldzka E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel.061 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl.Luxmed E-3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. 061 845 11 11,www.luxmed.pl.Real estateEwa Tracz ul. Chełmońskiego 22 (Grunwald), tel. 061866 21 33. Sale, purchase and hire.Global Invest ul. Powidzka 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061879 48 48, www.globalinvestpoland.com.Mamdom , www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Polandslargest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands of realestate offers from estate agents, private individuals, governmentorganisations and companies. Every single offer has atleast one image and the descriptions are all translated intoEnglish by a native speaker, not a computer. You can choose todeal directly with the sellers (who often speak English) or makeuse of interpretors, drivers, and other services. Mamdomcharges no commission on any property purchases.Relocation companiesCorstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23,Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, www.corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excellent storagefacilities and relocations to and within Europe. Office andlocal moves also handled.Universal Express Worldwide Movers C-3, ul.Ogrodowa 9, tel. 061 896 15 02, www.uer.pl. QOpen08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.SpaLa Beaute’ ul. Kościelna 39d (Jeżyce), tel. 061 851 3237, www.thalgo.poznan.pl.Translators & InterpretersBiuro Tłumaczeń Delta ul. Starowiejska 1a/5 (StareMiasto), tel. 061 828 80 81, www.delta-translators.com.pl. English & German translations.Business Service ul. Szeherezady 47 (Grunwald), tel.061 868 44 47. European and oriental languages.Lingua-Service ul. Słubicka 19a (Stare Miasto), tel.061 823 06 19, www.tlumacz.icpnet.pl.Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

BrovariaDominaResidenceStare Miasto

SheratonPoznan

96 STREET REGISTERLISTINGS INDEX9723 Lutego B/C-127 Grudnia B-23 Maja B-1/2Al. Armii Poznań G-1/2Al. Cytadelowiczów G-1Al. Marcinkowskiego C-1/2Al. Niepodległości A-1/3Al. Republik H-1Al. Wielkopolska E-1/F-2Barzyńskiego E/F-2Bastionowa G-1Berdychowo I-4BnińskaK-2/3Bolesława KrzywoustegoH/I-5Brandstaettera H-1Bukowska E-3/4Bydgoska J-2/3Cegielskiego H-4ChopinaF-2/3Chwiałkowskiego F/G-5CichaF/G-2CzartoriaH/I-3DługaC/D-3Dominikańska D-1Dożynkowa G-1Droga Dębińska H-5DrzewnaF-4/5DrzymałyE/F-1Dworcowa E/F-4Działowa G-2Działyńskich B-1Dziekańska I-2/3Ewangelicka H-3/H/I-4FilipińskaI/J-3Franciszkańska C-2FredryA-1/2Gajowa E-3GarbaryD-1/2Garncarska A-2gen. Dąbrowskiego E-3gen. Maczka F-1Głogowska E-4/5Główna J-1/2/K-1GołębiaC/D-2Góra Przemysła C-1/2Górna Wilda F/G-5Graniczna E-5Grobla D-2Grochowe Łąki G-2/3Grudzieniec E/F-2Grunwaldzka E-3/4Gwarna A-2Inflancka K-5Jana Pawła II I-4/5/J-3/4Jaskółcza C-2Jeżycka E-2Kaliska J-4Kanałowa E-5Kantaka B-2kard. Wyszyńskiego I-3Katowicka J-4/5Kazimierza Wielkiego H-4Klasztorna D-2Kochanowskiego E-2/3Kopernika G-4Koronkarska J-2Kościuszki A/B-1/2/3KoziaC/D-2Kórnicka I-4/5/I/J-5Krakowska G-4Kramarska C/D-1Krasińskiego E/F-3Kraszewskiego E-3Królowej Jadwigi G-4/5Krysiewicza C-3ks. Posadzego I-3ks. Wujka F-5Księcia Józefa G-2Ku Cytadeli H-2Kurpiowska F-2Kurza Noga C-2Kwiatowa G-4LibeltaA/B-1Lubrańskiego I-2/3Ludgardy C-2Łady E-2Łaskarza J-3ŁaziennaH-3/4Łąkowa G-4Łucznicza I-5Majakowskiego J/K-4Małachowskiego J-2Małe Garbary D-1Małeckiego E-5Małopolska E-1Mansfelda E-2/3Mariacka K-1Masztalarska C-1Mazowiecka E-1Mączna E-2Mickiewicza E-3Mielżyńskiego B-1Młyńska B-1Mokra D-1Mostowa D-2Murna C-2Muśnickiego D-3Mylna E-2Na Podgórniku G/H-2Na Szańcach H/I-1Nad Bogdanką E-2Nad Wierzbakiem E-1Niedziałkowskiego F/G-5Noskowskiego F-2/3Nowowiejskiego B-1/2Ogrodowa C-3Ostrów Tumski I-3Ostrówek I-3OwsianaF/G-1Paderewskiego C-2Panny Marii I-2/3Pasaż Apollo G-4Piaskowa H-3Piastowska H-5Piekary B-3Pl. Andersa G-4Pl. Wolności B/C-2Podgórna C/D-2/3Podolska E-1PodwaleJ-2/3PowstańcówWielkopolskich A-3Poznańska E-2Północna H-2Półwiejska C-3Prużańska K-5Przemysłowa F-5Przepadek G-2Przystań I-4Pszenna G-1Pułaskiego F-2Ratajczaka B-2/3Ratuszowa C-2Roosevelta E/F-3Rybaki C-3RynkowaC-1/2SerafitekI-4/5Sienkiewicza E-3Sieroca C-2Składowa A-3Skośna F-3Sochaczewska F-1Sokoła E-1Solna G-3Sowia J-5Spadzista G-5Stary Rynek C/D-2Stawna D-1Strusia E-5Strzałkowskiego E-2/3Strzałowa C-3Strzelecka C-3Szelągowska I-1Szewska D-1Szkolna C-2Szymańskiego C-3Śląska E-1Ślusarska D-2ŚródkaI/J-3św. Czesława F/G-5św. Jacka I-3Rynek graffitiśw. Marcin A/B-2/3św. Marii Magdaleny D-3św. Michała J/K-3św. Wawrzyńca E-2św. Wojciech G-3Święcickiego E-4Świętojańska J-3Świętosławska D-2Święty Marcin F/G-3TaczakaA/B-3TayloraA-2/3TopolowaH/I-3Warszawska J-3Wąska E-2Wenecjańska H-3Weteranów I-5Wielka D-2Wieniawskiego A-1Wierzbięcice F-5Wierzbowa H-4Wieżowa I-3Winogrady G-1Wodna D-2Wojska Polskiego E-1Wolnica C-1Wołyńska E-1Woźna D-2Wrocławska C-2Wroniecka D-1Wszystkich Świętych D-3WysokaB/C-3Za Bramką D-3Za Cytadelą G/H-1Zachodnia E-4/5Zagórze I-3Zamkowa C-1Zdrojowa K-3Zeylanda E-3Zielona D-3Żniwna G-1Żydowska D-1Alex WebberAcademic Pub 51Adalbertus 74Agawa 51Alexander 38Ali Baba 34, 38Applied Arts Museum 64Archdiocese Museum 64Archeological Museum 64Arkady 49Artemis 37Astra 27Atelier of Józef IgnacyKraszewski 64Atmosfera 49AWO 74Azalia 35Bacchus Winiarnia 51Balinga 51Bamberka 46Bambus 35Barcode 51Batory 32Bażanciarnia 35Bee 58Bee Jay's 38, 52Behemot 49Biskupin 72Blow Up Hall 24, 52Blue Note Jazz Club 52Bodega Cafe 52Bogota 52Brogans Irish Pub 52Brovaria 24, 38, 52Browar Pub 52Buddha Bar 37, 52Butting Heads 68By The Way Hostel 31Cacao Republika 49Cactus Factoria 52Cafe Bordo 49Café Plotka 52Cafe Sekret 49Caffe Ławka 49Campanile 27Canappka 34Cathedral 62Chimera 49Chłopskie Jadło 46Cinnamon 31Citadel Park 68City Information Centre 66Cocorico 49Cofeel'ya 49Corcovado 39Corner Pub 52Corpus Christi Church 62Costa Coffee 49Coxy's 39, 52Cuba Libre 59Cute 59Cymes 45Czarna Owca 59Czekolada 50Czerwone Sombrero 45Czerwony Fortepian 52Da Luigi 42Dark Restaurant 39Déja Vu Café 52Delicja 32, 35Derby 27Deserovnia 39, 53Domina Poznań Residence24Dominican Church 62Dom Vikingów 36Donatello 42Dorrian 27Dracula Pub 75Dragon 53Dramat 46DV Club 59Dwór w Podstolicach 32Emforiu 59Environment Museum 64Eskulap 53Estadio Sports Bar &Restaurant 53Estella 45Fashion Cafe 53F.B.I Poznan 53Feniks 27Fever 53Fidelio 42Figaro 36Filigrando Cafe & Lunch 50Poznań facadesFontanna Czekolady 54Fort Colomb 54Franciscan Church 63Frolic Goats Hostel 31Fuego 54Fusion Restaurant 37, 43Getting there 70Gewert 74Girasole 42Glob-Tour 66Gold 30Gong 50Green Hotel 32Gromada 28Gruszecki 50Habana 39, 54Henlex 28Hipokryzja 54Historical Museum ofPoznań 64Holy Trinity Church 76Hotel 222 28Hotel Księcia Józefa 28Hotel Pietrak 75Hotel System Premium 28HP Park 24IBB Andersia Hotel 25Ibis 28Ikar 28Imaret 39IQ 59Johnny Rocker 54June 1956 Poznań UprisingMuseum 65Kamea 54Kawka 50KFC 34Kisielice 54Klepsydra 54Klub Charyzma 59Klub Galeria Shisha 54Klub Zak 55Kórnik 70Kórnik Castle 71Kresowa 46Kruszwica 72Kultowa 55Kyokai Sushi Bar 44La Scala 42Le Bistrot 39Lech 29, 74Lech Visitors Centre 68Le Palais du Jardin 36Literary Museum of HenrykSienkiewicz 65Lizard King 40, 55Lobby Bar 55Lokanta 40Londoner Pub 55Madagaskar 40Malibu Bar 55Markowa Knajpka 47Massimiliano Ferre 43Matii Restaurant - VodkaBar - Sushi Bar 44Mat's 25McDonald's 34Medical Vocational SchoolBoarding House 74Mercure Poznań 25Meridian 29Metropolitan Club 60Milano Ristorante 43Mini Hotelik 30APPoznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.compoznan.inyourpocket.comMarch - June 2009

98LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEXMłyńskie Koło 29, 46Mollini 43Mood 40, 55Mosaica 40Motoring Museum 65Muchos Patatos 56Museum of GnieznoArchdiocese 76Musical InstrumentsMuseum 65Nalewka 36Naramowice 30National Museum 65New Zoo 68NH 25Notus City Park Residence25Novotel Poznań Centrum 26Novotel Poznań Malta 26Old Town Hall 61Old Zoo 68Olimpia 29Ossowski 32Ostrów Lednicki 72Ostrów Tumski 61Pałac Wąsowo 32Panorama 36Papavero 40Parish Church of St.Stanislaus 63Patio 36Pekin 35Pharmaceutical Museum65Piano Bar 56Piano Bar Restaurant &Cafe 43Pieprz i Wanilia 40Pietrak 74Pireus 37Piwnica 21 56Pizza Hut 46Pizzeria Rozmaitości 43Play Club 75Pod Aniołem 47Pod Dzwonkiem 47Pod Koziołkami 47Pod Minogą 56Pod Pretekstem 50Pod Złotą Jabłonią 47Polonez 29Pomarańcza 50Pomorski 31Portofino 41Post Dali 56Post-Office Cafe 50Pożegnanie z Afryką 50Poznań Army Museum 65Poznan Bamber Museum66Pracownia 37Proletaryat 56Pub 75Pub Cafe 76Puzon 56Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe57Ratuszova 47Ratuszowa 75Red Erik Cafe 50Reeta's Haveli 38Residence & Workshop ofKazimiera Iłłakowiczówna 66Restauracja Polska 75Restauracja Zapadnia 41Restaurant de Rome 41Rezydencja Solei 29Rodeo Drive 34Room 55 41, 57Rooster 34Roti 34Royal 26Rzymianka 41Rzymski 30Sakana Sushi Bar 45Sami Swoi 57Sansibar 60Sarp 57Shark 57Sheraton Poznań Hotel 26Sioux City 34Sioux Classic 34Soho 50Sól i Pieprz 41SomePlace Else 35, 57Sonata 41Spagetheria 34Sphinx 34, 75Sport 31SQ 60Stacja Cafe 50St. Adalbert`s Church 63Stare Miasto 26St. Francis of AssissiChurch 63St. John of JerusalemChurch 63St. Joseph`s Church 63St. Martin`s Church 63Strzelno 72Sushi 77 Noodle Bar 45Sushi Sekai 45Taj India 38Tapas 60Tapas Bar 48Taste Barcelona 48Tawerna Mykonos 37Terytorium 60The Arboretum 71The Castle 62The Dubliner 57The Fire Place Lounge 58The Gniezno Cathedral 77The Mexican 45The Museum of the Originsof the Polish State 76The Old Town Square 62Tivoli 46Tokyo Underground 60Tourist Information Centre66, 77Trawiński 26Trzemeszno 72T&T 30Uczta Babette 50U Honzika 58Umberto 50U Mnie Czy u Ciebie 42Valpolicella 44Villa Magnolia Ristorante44Vinoteka la Bodega 51Features indexVivaldi 27Wejście Obok 42Wenecja 72Weranda 50Whisky Bar 58Wielkopolska EthnographicMuseum 66Wielkopolska MartyrsMuseum 66Wielkopolska MilitaryMuseum 67Wielkopolska UprisingMuseum 67Wilson Park 67W Starym Kinie 58Wylatowo 72W-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda48Zagroda Bamberska 30, 36Za Kulisami 58Zapiecek 50Zielony Smok 35Złoty Smok 751956 Uprising 17Climate 13Easter 44Essential Poznan 61Facts & Figures 13Have Your Say 23Headless Figures 55Hindenburg 66International Football 56Jewish Poznan 63Language Smarts 14Lech Poznan 6Lech Visitor's Centre 68Market Values 13Meteors 47National Holidays 15Poland in Film 53Polish Food 42Poznan City Card 12Poznan Model 58Poznan on the Cheap 32Poznan Synagogue 61Quick Currency Convertor 15Quick Eats 34Quick Picks 10Stary Marych 48The Birth of Poland 76The Enigma Code 67The Great Escape 64Trade Fairs 8Train Smarts 84UFOs 60What's Hot & What's Not 30Wielkopolska Uprising 16Poznań In Your Pocketpoznan.inyourpocket.com