Instruction Manual ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP - Nature Coast Hobby ...

Rinse parts in clean water after cleaningthem with a solvent. Once the parts arecleaned, don’t touch them — your fingerswill leave greasy spots. Soldering is easy ifyour work is set up properly. First, immobilizethe parts in a fixture or other holdingdevice, then add just enough rosin oracid paste flux to the joint to do the job.Solder flows where flux is applied. Next,heat the joint with a small torch or pencilsoldering iron. This sequence is important.The larger the parts, the longer it takes toheat the brass and melt the solder. Removeexcess solder with needle files. Better yet,use a desoldering syphon or braid toremove globs of solder before it hardens.The joint should look like the real thing,not a big glob of fillets.What You’ll Need to Start ConstructionThe following items are recommended forbuilding the model. Those who havemodeled before may have their favorites.A. Knives and saws1. Hobby knife with #11 blades2. Razor saw or jeweler’s sawB. FilesSet of needle files; steel or diamondcoatedC. Clamps1. A few small C-clamps2. Wooden spring-type clothespins(craft shops have small versions)3. #16 and #33 rubber bandsD. Tool SetSmall carving tool set or individualgouges and chisels for carving keel rabbets,stern wing transom, and fillerblocks, and tapering the stem and rudder.E. Sharpening StoneKeeps tools razor sharp.F. Boring Tools1. Miniature bits sizes #60 to #802. 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" bits3. Pin viseG. Miscellaneous1. Tack hammer2. Tweezers (a few)3. Small, fine pointed scissors4. Miniature pliersa. small roundb. flat nose5. Small bench vise6. Soldering iron or torcha. solderb. flux7. Beeswax block (for treatingrigging lines)8. Masking tape9. Wire cutters (for cuttingfine wire and strip metal)H.Sandpaper1. Fine and medium grit garnet or#100 to #220 aluminum oxide2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaperI. Sail clothLight weave cotton or linen cloth ifsails are desired. Model Expo sells asuitable cotton cloth.J. Finishing1. Paintbrushesa. Fine point for detailsb. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hullK. Supplies:1. Paints2. Primer3. Stains and varnish4. White or woodworker’s(yellow) glue5. Cyanoacrylates(generic name is Super Glue)6. Five-minute epoxy7. Wood fillerNote: White or woodworker’s glue in yellowor tan will suffice for most of themodel. Five-minute epoxy provides extrastrength for affixing fittings. Cyanoacrylates,such as Jet, Flash, or Zap, producequick adhesion. For most applications,the medium viscosity, gap-filling variety isbest. The thin type is recommended forfilling a narrow crack or tacking hullplanking to the bulkheads.Painting & Staining the ModelBeginning this manual with directions onapplying finishes may seem strange. Notso! Much time and effort can be savedand more professional results obtained ifthe finishing process is carried onthroughout construction. Proper timingin applying finishes and using maskingtape to define painted edges should eliminateunsightly glue marks and splotchy,stained surfaces. Take advantage of thesegeneral suggestions:1. PreliminariesSanding and cleaning: Rub down externalsurfaces with 220 grit sandpaper, then wipeoff every speck of dust. Give surfaces to bepainted two light coats of primer. Sandlightly after the last application. Don’tsand down to bare wood. After washingyour hands, gently dust the hull with a softbrush and clean, soft cloth or tack rag. Usea spackling compound, such as ModelMagic or DAP, to fill any scratches anddefects, then sand and prime again.Preparing walnut for painting: This kitcontains walnut wood for most of theouter surfaces. Walnut is an excellent woodfor a natural oil or varnish finish. However,if you intend to paint any walnut, the useof a paste filler or spackle is highly recommended.Walnut has a more pronouncedgrain than a wood such as basswood orcherry. Filling the grain will result in amore satisfactory painted surface.6Choosing paint: Glossy surfaces are notdesirable on ship models. A flat finish orone with a slight sheen is best, because itdoesn’t reflect daylight or artificial lights.Consequently, details show up better. However,the undercoat or primer should bedead flat. A primer gives the surface a littletooth and helps top coats adhere better.Many hobby paints are satisfactory,including Model Shipways, Testors,Humbrol, and Tamiya. Jo Sonja artists’paints (used by bird carvers) are alsoacceptable. They are a combinationacrylic-gouache and dry dead flat.Hobby paints have a variety of reflectancelevels from flat to gloss. When using amixed group of reflectance levels, finishthe completed model with a flat, clearcoat. It will provide durability and sealany decals or dry-transfer lettering.Brush painting: Painting with fine, softbristle brushes is probably best for thebeginner. Many skilled modelmakers preferthe brushed-on technique, because itssubtle imperfections impart a more lifelikeappearance to the model. Brushesmust be soft and of the highest quality.Artist-grade sable or synthetics are thebest. Use wider brushes for paintingbroad surfaces. If too narrow, the bristleswill cause excessive streaking.When applying paint or stain with abrush, lay down one thin coat in a singlestroke, then move to an adjacent area andcoat it with a single stroke. Never go backover fresh paint. That will tear up the surface.Wait until it has dried to a hard finishbefore applying a second coat.Spray painting: Although slightly expensive,a Paasche, Badger, Testors, Revell-Monogram, or similar airbrush willproduce a first-rate job and is worth theinvestment. Airbrushes are either singleaction(trigger controls only airflow) ordouble-action (trigger controls air andpaint), and they are easy to use. Spraypatterns can vary from thin to about 1/2"wide by either adjusting the needle orinstalling a different, sealed nozzle. Insome brands, paint travels through theairbrush body to the needle. Theserequire disassembling to clean. Otherdesigns bypass the body and bring paintdirectly to the nozzle. These clean by simplyspraying solvent through them.Paints are either water- (acrylic) or solventbased.Solvent-based paints spray best.Acrylics are difficult to spray and mustdefinitely be used with the manufacturer’srecommended thinner or with alcohol,a satisfactory substitute. Thinningwater-based paints with water creates surfacetension problems, resulting in poorcoverage and spray atomization. Experimentwhen using acrylics. Some modelershave success and others don’t.

When using solvent-based paints, workoutdoors or equip your shop with a spraybooth. These fumes are toxic.Many brands of aerosol paint producegood results. However, test them on scrapwood before spraying the model. Aerosolsput out a lot more paint than an airbrush,so be careful to avoid runs. Spray on severallight coats.Most paint manufacturers have specialthinners for their various paint lines. Followeach manufacturer’s recommendations.Mixing brands is not a good idea,because they may not be compatible.Sometimes, however, no other optionexists. If so, apply each brand separatelyand allow to dry thoroughly beforeadding the next. Always test to make surethe final flat or gloss finish is compatiblewith the paint it will cover.Masking surfaces: Masking can be atricky process. Some brands of maskingtape are worthless, because they allowpaint to seep underneath their edges. Formasking fine stripes or straight andcurved lines, use a graphic arts tape suchas Chart Pak. It comes in widths as fine as1/64". Chart Pak tapes have superb adhesionand won’t bleed when firmly applied(burnishing is recommended). Black plasticelectrician’s tape and Scotch RemovableMagic Tape are also excellent.Scotch’s tape has the same, low stickadhesive as its famous Post-It pads. Infact, Post-It tape flags can be used formasking.2. Virginia Sloop’s Color SchemeThree color schemes are suggested as follows:Painted modelThis scheme would be typical for an originalship of this period.Note: Refer to the instructions in the previoussection regarding painting of walnutbefore you proceed.Main rail, quarter deck and cabin rail,taffrail, and fashion pieces — BlackBlack strake and wales — BlackMolding on black strake (top edge ofblack strake) — Antique goldHull side and transom planking down tothe black strake — Yellow ochreOption: Paint the sheer strake under themain rail light blue, red, or green.Swivel gun posts — Yellow ochreHull below the wales — TallowStern window frames — Antique goldTimberheads — Natural finishInside bulwarks — Dull redInside of gunports — Dull redDecks, including waterway, and cabintop — Natural finishCabin front and doors — Natural finishCompanionway — Natural finishBinnacle — Natural finishBitts — Natural finishSteering wheel — Paint casting color ofnatural woodSteering wheel stand and drum — NaturalfinishHatch coamings — Natural finishHatch covers — Natural finishGrating — Natural finishGalley stack — BlackQuarter deck ladders — Natural finishCatheads — Dull red inboard (same asbulwarks), black from inboard edge of railand outboardIron work (pintles and gudgeons, chainplates, hatch rings and cannon carriagerings, mast cap, bowsprit straps, companionwayhinges, cabin door hinges, andjibboom irons) — BlackAnchors — Black shank with natural finishstockCannon barrels and swivel guns — BlackCannon carriages — Dull RedCannon trucks — BlackBoom crutches — Natural finishMast — Natural finish with black mastwedge/coat. Black masthead and very topof topmast.Boom and gaff — Natural finish. Black atvery end of boom and gaff.Yards — Natural finish. Black yardarms.Bowsprit — Natural finishJibboom — Natural finish. Black at veryend of jibboom.Blocks — Natural finishNote: For the above colors, the followingModel Shipways acrylic marine paintsapproximate the colors:Black — Hull/Spar Black, MS48307Yellow Ochre — Hull Yellow Ochre,MS4829Tallow — Hull Tallow, MS4803Dull Red — Bulwarks/Gun Carriage Red,MS4802Antique Gold — Antique Gold Trim,MS4806Note: For natural finished basswood decksand beech dowel spars, we suggest usinga light tan or maple stain, followed by oilor low gloss polyurethane varnish. Fornatural finished walnut items, use a clearoil finish.Natural finishMany natural finished models are displayedin European museums. Consequently,the process is most popularoverseas. It has also become popular as aresult of foreign kit sales in the US. Mostforeign kit models feature walnut planking.This scheme retains the natural beautyof walnut.For all walnut areas, use an oil finish suchas tung oil or Danish oil. No stain isrequired. For best results apply about threecoats of oil, buffing between coats. Themore oil you add the higher the sheen. Forthe basswood decks and birch dowel masts,stain the wood first. A light maple or pinestain would be most appropriate.As an option, use a polyurethane satinvarnish in lieu of oil.Natural finish with touches of colorA pleasing balance between a natural andfully painted model.Use an all-natural finish, except for touchesof color. You could use the colors listedabove for rails, bulwarks, catheads, blackstrake and wales, black strake molding,sheer strake, galley stack, and all ironwork,stern windows, cannon barrels,swivel guns, and anchors. Or, make achoice of your own.

Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead HullBefore getting started on this project,a few important terms and abbreviationsare in order, especially if you are abeginner.Port or (P) — Looking forward, this is theleft side of the ship.Starboard or (S) — Looking forward, this isthe right side of the ship.P/S — A designation you will see on plansand in instructions. This tells you that thesame identical part, rig, or whatever,appears on both the port and starboardsides of the ship in the same location.Model Shipways plans are drawn showingthe starboard side of the ship. In this case,the bow is pointing to the right. This iscommon practice for model plans as wellas real ship plans.Some of the other stages will have specificterms defined to help you understand termsused on the plans and in the instructions.1. Bending WoodBuilding a plank-on-bulkhead hullrequires bending some wood withoutdistorting its desired position (doing sostresses glue joints and fasteners). Woodcan be bent by:Steam bending: Hold the plank over akettle of boiling water and bend. Holdthe wood in position until it cools.Although the plank should remain in thatshape, it may spring back slightly.Microwave steaming: Wrap the planks ina wet paper towel before heating. Sincemicrowaves differ in wattage, experimentto determine what power level to use andfor how long.Soaking: Submerge the plank in warmwater for several hours. Try adding a littlehousehold or pure ammonia. This speedsup the process, making the fibers slipperyso the wood bends more easily. Aftersoaking, place the plank in a fixture untilcompletely dry.Soldering iron: Large soldering irons witha tubular end are ideal. Clamp the ironupright in a vise. While the iron heats,soak the strip of wood in tap water. Somemodelers prefer bending around the tubenear the handle (it’s not as hot), whileothers use the shank. Move the strip backand forth against the iron. Its heat turnswater into steam and drives it into thewood. The trick is to wait until you feelthe wood wanting to yield before startingthe bend. Begin too soon or apply toomuch pressure and the strip will break.The wood dries rapidly, so care must betaken to avoid scorching. Resoak andreapply it to the iron until the desiredshape is achieved. Once the piece isformed, it can go directly on the model.Because the wood’s memory has beenpermanently altered, it will never springback to its former shape, meaning nostress on any timber or fasteners. Spendsome time acquainting yourself with thismethod, and you’ll never bother with fixturesagain.Another soldering iron approach is toturn a tip from hard aluminum, then filea 45˚ angle on one end. Insert the tip in a20- or 30-watt soldering iron and heat it.Soak the wood for five minutes, then letit dry for five minutes. (Woods take onwater faster than they can release it.) Holdthe tip against the wood to heat it. Whensupple, bend the plank over a form, orsimply lift the end as heat is applied andbend by hand.Commercial plank benders: Model Exposells an electric plank bender designed forcontrolled heat. Another tool (Amati’sForm-A-Strip, available from ModelExpo) bends planks without soaking orheating. It looks like a pair of pliers withone flat jaw and a chisel for the other.When squeezed on a plank, the chiseldepresses one side of the wood, causing itto bend. Repeat the process along theplank until it assumes the correct curve.However, squeezing too hard will cut thewood in half. This tool bends planks inonly one direction, so it’s good for bowplanks, but not those at the stern.2. Preparing the Center KeelThe center keel is laser-cut from basswood.With a sharp pencil, draw lines below thebulkhead slots from the slot down to thebearding line to help align the bulkheadswhen slid into the slots. Then draw thebearding line shown on the pattern onPlan Sheet 1. Mark on both sides of thecenter keel. Be critical and measure fromseveral points on the plans when markingthe lines.STERNPOST3. Installing the Stem, Keel,& SternpostThe stem, keel, and sternpost are laser-cutfrom walnut. Add them to the centerkeel. Taper the stem as shown on theplans. Align and hold the pieces withdowels, located as shown on Plan Sheet 2or wherever suits you (Figure 1-1).Note: The Figure suggests tapering theparts before installing. However, you mayfind it easier to do this later. If somethingis not exactly square, tapering later willgive you a chance to make the tapersmore even on each side.4. Cutting the RabbetThe rabbet is a generic term referring tothe entire groove where planks are fittedalong the stem, keel, and sternpost. Therabbet line is the glue line between thestem, keel, and sternpost and the centerkeel. The bearding line is the intersectionof the center keel with the planking’sinner face. Measure the bearding line’slocation from Plan Sheet 1 (you alreadyshould have done this), then mark it onboth sides of the center keel.Note: The rabbet varies depending uponits location. Cut the depth of the rabbetto suit the thickness of combined outerand inner layer of planking. Do this witha #11 hobby blade. Using a 1/8" or 1/4"wide flat chisel, start the rabbet cut atthe bearding line and cut a taperedgroove toward the rabbet line. The plansshow a sketch of the actual shape of therabbet cut.To judge the rabbet angle, position ascrap plank against the keel as you carve.The double planking scheme consists of abasic 3/64" thick first layer of basswoodcovered by 0.020" walnut strips. Glue ashort piece of these strips together foryour scrap test plank. When the hull isFIG. 1-1 INSTALLING KEEL, STEM & STERNPOSTGLUEGLUECENTERKEELTAPER BEFOREINSTALLINGKEELUSE 1/16" DOWEL FOR ALIGNMENTGLUESTEMPRE-FIT PARTS8

planked, these timbers should lie flushon the cut portion from bearding line torabbet. When cutting the rabbet amidshipsand forward, temporarily insert thebulkheads in the center keel slots todetermine the angle the planks will takewhen installed. Use your scrap plank atthese angles when cutting the rabbet. Therabbet detail is shown on Plan Sheet 2and in Figure 1-2.When cutting the rabbet at the stern, workslowly. The port and starboard rabbet cutnearly meets at the center of the center keel.Work too fast and you might cut throughthe entire center keel.5. Installing the BulkheadsThe bulkheads are laser-cut basswood.Label the bulkheads A through R. Testeach one to make sure it slides into thecorrect center keel slot. If the fit is tootight, sand the slot. Bulkheads should fitsnugly with a little tolerance for glue.Use a tick strip to transfer the bevelsshown on Plan Sheet 1 to the bulkheads.Mark them in pencil. Cut the bevels witha #11 hobby blade per Figure 1-3. Deckbevels and side bevels amidships arehardly measurable. These can be sandedin after the bulkheads are installed.The bevels are required on both the innerand outer sides of the bulwark stanchionextensions (timberheads). The extensionson the forward bulkheads are rather thin,so be careful not to break them off as youwork. Once the hull is planked with outboardplanking and inboard ceilingplank, the bulwarks will have sufficientstrength. As an option, you can cut theoutside bevel for outer hull planking andwait until the hull in planked beforebeveling the inside. This would maintaina stronger bulwark as you work on theouter planking.Glue the bulkheads in place. Make surethe top of each bulkhead is flush with thetop of the center keel. Use a smallmachinist square to set each bulkheadperpendicular to the center keel, thentack a temporary strip to the top of thebulkhead to hold it in place while theglue dries (Figure 1-4).After installing all the bulkheads, checkthe straightness of the center keel witha straight edge, then tack or tape a temporarybatten (just a strip of wood) oneach side of the hull on the outboardedge of the deck (Figure 1-5). This is acritical step. Measure the spacingbetween each bulkhead on both sidesand retack the battens until the hull isaligned. These battens should remain inplace until you do some planking, orbetter yet, add a permanent strut betweeneach bulkhead for added rigidity, thenremove the battens.FIG. 1-2 CUTTING THE RABBETINSTALL BULKHEAD TEMPORARILYTO DETERMINE PLANK ANGLEAMIDSHIPSSTERNTACKTEMPORARYSTRIP WHILEGLUE DRIESTACKTEMPORARYBATTENSFIT SCRAPPLANK TOCHECK FITCHISELBEARDING LINE –DON’T CUT ABOVE ITCUT DEPTHWITH HOBBY KNIFERABBETFIG. 1-3 BEVELING THE BULKHEADSLIGHT BEVELS CAN BESANDED LATERPENCIL MARKEDBEVELCUT BEVEL ONBOTH SIDES OFBULWARKSTANCHIONEXTENSIONSFIG. 1-4 INSTALLING BULKHEADSFLUSH HERELINE UP ONPENCIL MARKSWHERE DECK HAS SHEERHOBBYKNIFESAND BEVEL LATERGLUEFIG. 1-5 ALIGNING THE HULLCHECK SPACING BETWEENBULKHEADSCAREFUL!DON’T CUT INTOMAXIMUM WIDTHEDGECAREFUL!WATCHWHICH SIDEBEVEL IS ONCHECK 90° ANGLEWITH SQUARECHECKSTRAIGHTNESSOF CENTER KEELWITH STRAIGHTEDGEADD OPTIONAL PERMANENT STRUTBETWEEN EACH BULKHEAD FORADDED RIGIDITY – BOTH SIDES9

Be certain the bottom of each bulkheadfeathers out at the bearding line. Trim asnecessary to line up. Bottoms on themost narrow bulkheads may be slightlyabove the bearding line caused by laserburning the narrow wood (Figure 1-6).Next, sand in the bevels that were notprecut. Lay a 1/8" thick square basswoodbatten against the bulkhead edges at variouslocations to check the hull’s fairness(Figure 1-7). Sand or add shims to correctbumps and dips. This is an importantcheck; hull planks must lie flat against thebulkheads. Due to the Virginia Sloop’snumerous bulkheads, manufacturing orassembly errors can occur. Beginners tendto rush this step and jump right intoplanking. Take your time and check thefairness thoroughly. Then, you won’t runinto problems when you start planking.6. Installing the Wing Transom,Filler Blocks, and TransomFramesCarve the wing transom (two halves) froma basswood block included in the kit. Usethe shape shown on Plan Sheet 2, andglue the wing transom halves to the aftside of Bulkhead R and to the center keel.Below the wing transom, fit and carve thebasswood filler pieces. This is nothingmore than a filler between the edge ofBulkhead R and the wing transom so thehull planks have some gluing surface. Ona real ship, this area would also be filledwith stern framing (Figure 1-8).On top of the wing transom and againstBulkhead R, glue the six laser-cut basswoodstern frames. You will need to taperthe top and bottom first, as they sit at anangle. Also, the center frames (one oneach side of the center keel) must betapered from bottom to top, or just taperan area in way of the windows. Angle theframes so they are in line with the sides ofthe stern windows. Double check thelocation of these frames, because the sternwindow frames (these windows are alsocalled stern lights) will fit between them.Fit a header and sill piece for each window.These can be basswood, since theydo not show after the window frames areadded. The header piece also serves toprovide end support for the cabin topsub-deck and planking. Finally, fit andcarve the filler blocks on each side outboardof the outer stern frame. These buttinto Bulkhead R and are carved to thehull form.Figure 1-9 illustrates the stern framing.This is a good time to paint the interiorblack so that nothing will show throughthe windows after the planking has beeninstalled.CENTERKEELBEARDINGLINEFIG. 1-6 BULKHEADS AT BEARDING LINESAME THIS SIDEWING TRANSOMFILLER BLOCKSLOPE ANDBEVEL PER PLANSCENTERKEELWINDOWHEADERAND SILL10BULKHEADSMOOTH FLOWINTO RABBETFIT ROUGH SHAPED BLOCKFINISH CARVING ON MODELBEARDING LINERABBETFIG. 1-9 FRAMING THE STERNEND BLOCKCARVE ON MODELSHIM IFSHORTFIG. 1-7 FAIRING THE BULKHEADSSINCE GAP IS SHOWING UP AT E, G & H,MOST LIKELY F IS THE PROBLEMBULKHEAD. TRIM F AND RECHECK.STERN FRAMESBULKHEAD“R”BEVELEDBULKHEAD “R”WING TRANSOMTRIM IFLONGGAP – NEED TO ADD SHIM TO EDGE OFBULKHEADSEVERAL ADJACENT BULKHEADS OKFIG. 1-8 STERN WING TRANSOM & FILLER BLOCKSBATTEN

7. Installing the Bow Filler Blocks,Knightheads, and TimberheadsForward of Bulkhead A, install the fillerblocks on both sides. Carve from basswoodblocks included in the kit. The planprovides some sections through the block.To aid you with carving the blocks correctly,make templates from these sections. Fitthe templates as you carve the blocks —you could easily flatten the block and nothave the fair waterline curves in way of theblock. These blocks provide a gluing surfacefor the forward end of the hull planks.It is suggested that you pre-carve the blocksclose to the waterlines before placing onthe model, then finish the correct shapewhile on the model, using battens to makesure the blocks flow along hull lines. Fitthe knightheads and timberheads in notchescut in the filler blocks. The plan showsthe shape of theses parts (Figure 1-10).8. Installing the Mast MortiseSince Bulkhead F interferes with the mastgoing into the hull very far, the heel ofthe mast must be tapered and fit into asocket (mortise box) on the center keel.Figure 1-11 and Detail 2-C on Plan Sheet2 illustrates the socket. Do the socketnow, because you cannot get to it afterthe deck is planked. Cut the tenon in thebottom of the mast so it fits the socket.9. Gunport and Sweep Port FramingThe bulkheads are located to form thesides of all the gunports but allow spacefor lining the sides of the openings with0.020"-thick walnut strips. The walnutstrips are not a required construction feature,but are added only to retain a walnutcovering for those who desire a naturalfinish. Stage 2 discusses this further.Fit a basswood header and sill betweenthe bulkheads. Add these pieces to projectslightly beyond the bulkhead extensions,then sand flush inboard and outboard(Figure 1-12).The sweep ports are shaped like an oarblade with a hole in the center for the handle.Since these openings will be cutthrough the bulwark, you need a filler piecein between. Add a filler piece just wideenough to cover the opening (Figure 1-13).Like the gunport headers and sills, sandflush with the bulkhead extensions. Theactual opening for the sweep ports can waituntil the exterior hull and ceiling plank areinstalled; then, cut the openings throughthe entire side. However, it would be agood idea to drill the center hole for theports through the filler piece at this time.10. Installing Deck Beams,Sub-Decks, and WaterwayDeck beams: Before you can install thesub-decks and plank the deck you’ll needsome deck beams — one to support the endsGLUE SECURELYCENTERKEELFIG. 1-10 FRAMING THE BOWNOTCH FORTIMBER HEADFILLERBLOCKFILLER FORHAWSE HOLENOTCH FORKNIGHT HEADFIG. 1-11 MAST MORTISE1/8" OR ANY GREATERTHICKNESSBULKHEAD “F”FIG. 1-12 FRAMING GUNPORTSHEADERSILLBULKHEAD “A”RABBETSAME BOTHSIDESCARVE TO WATERLINES SHOWNON PLAN SHEET 2MAKE TEMPLATE FOR EACH WATERLINETO AID CARVINGSAND FLUSHINBOARD ANDOUTBOARDFIG. 1-13 SWEEP PORT FILLER BLOCKSAND FLUSHINBOARD AND OUTBOARDSHAPE OF SWEEP PORTCUT NOW OR AFTERPLANKING11

of the main deck planking at the quarterdeck,and two to support the forward andaft ends of the quarterdeck planking. Allthree beams fit in precut notches in the centerkeel. These beams are laser-cut basswoodbut will need trimming on the ends to fit.The two forward beams are butted against astrip fitted between bulkheads (Figure 1-14).Sub-decks: The kit is supplied with lasercut1/32" thick basswood sheet as a subdeckunder the basswood deck planks andwalnut cabin top planking. This providesa firm support for the hatch coamingsand deck planks. Also, many modelerslike to mark the planking runs in pencilon the sub-deck as a guide before actuallyinstalling the planks. The sub-decksinclude cut-outs for the bulkhead timberheadextensions and the locations ofhatches, pumps, bitts, and the mast mortise.The laser-cut sub-deck may need tobe trimmed a bit to fit against the bulkheadtimberheads (Figure 1-15).Note: The decks have both camber andsheer. This means the sub-deck sheet mustbe bent in two directions to fit the top ofthe bulkheads. Before gluing, pin the deckbulkhead by bulkhead pinning at the centerline,then along the side. This sort of relievesthe stress in the deck so it will fit. Just makesure the sub-deck will lie flat on all bulkheadsand the center keel before gluing.The sub-decks can be glued to the bulkheadsfrom below, but you will need touse a brush or stick to reach the deckbetween the narrowly spaced bulkheads.A better way is to pre-drill small holesthrough the sub-decks in way of the bulkheads.With the sub-decks pinned securelyto the bulkheads, squirt some super gluethrough the holes. Capillary action willdistribute the glue along the bulkhead.Waterway: The laser-cut walnut waterwayruns from the quarter deck to the bowinside the bulwark extensions. The lasercutis a rectangle in cross section. Shapeit as shown on Plan Sheet 2, Section A-Aand in Figure 1-16. Glue the waterway ontop of the sub-decking and against thebulwark stanchion extensions.11. Main and After RailsThese will be installed after the hull andbulwark planking is completed. Refer toStage 2.12. Before Moving OnBefore proceeding with the hull and ceilingplanking, check all the framing. Make sureit is all in place and all nice and flush. Theframing sets the foundation for the finalplanking — you don’t want to get startedand find out that something is out of skew.Double check those bulkhead bevels, soyou know when you plank you will have afair hull form. Many beginners tend to rushthrough this stage only to find they arereally not ready for attacking the planking.QUARTERDECKBEAM –GLUE TOBULKHEAD“O”FIG. 1-14 DECK BEAMS AT QUARTER DECKBULKHEAD “O”BEAM ENDSUPPORTS BETWEENBULKHEADS “M” AND “N”SUBDECKFIG. 1-15 INSTALLING SUB DECKSTRIM SUB DECK IF NECESSARYTO FIT. TIGHT FIT NOT REQUIRED.WATERWAY WILL COVERTACK AND GLUE TO BULKHEADSFIG. 1-16 INSTALLING THE WATERWAYDECK PLANKSUB DECKCENTER KEELCEILINGWATERWAYQUARTER DECKBEAMNMMAIN DECKBEAM12

Stage 2: Planking The Hull And Installing The Rails1. Getting StartedMost modelers find planking tedious.Work slowly and think of each plank as aproject unto itself. Since hull sides areidentical, simultaneously cut one pair ofport and starboard planks to shape. Fitthe plank on one side, then the other.Don’t rush. Speed results in frustrationand a poor job.Before starting, secure the hull upsidedown in a vise or cradle. Somethingportable that rotates is ideal. Model Exposells a planking vise for this purpose.2. Planking Battens & BeltsHulls are easier to plank when dividedinto belts. They flow along the hull insmooth curves. Each is designed to laythe planks against the frames withoutexcessive edge bending. They gentlysweep up at the ends like the deck sheer.Planks within a belt are usually evenlyspaced, tapered, and fitted. Belts preventerrors from accumulating.When selecting a belt width and the numberof planks it contains, consider howthe planks taper and lay against theframes (bulkheads on our plank-on-bulkheadmodel). If the planks are too wide,they won’t lie flat against the bulkheads.Taper them too much and not enoughstock is left for fastening. Should this happen,a larger plank must be substitutedfor two planks to increase the width. Insome areas, the distance between plankswidens rather than tapers. If it becomestoo wide, a stealer must be added. Whilethese alterations are acceptable and areemployed on many ships, the best runof planking limits the number of stealers.Figure 2-1 illustrates some inserts.Plan Sheet 2 provides in-depth details onhow to lay out the planking. Study thefore and aft views plus the profile view togain a complete picture.3. Planking ButtsFew trees grow as tall as ships are long.Consequently, real planks were generally20 or 30 feet in length (5" to 7-1/2" modelscale). Some modelers think a plank aslong as the hull is easier to use. Theyscribe in fake butts or omit them.Although this can be done, working withshorter planks is more realistic and hasadvantages. For example, tapers markquicker and planks are easier to hold andfasten. Should a mistake occur, only asmall piece is affected.To emulate shipwright practice, staggerthe butts (Figure 2-2). Follow the shipwright’srules (indicated as “real ship” inseveral drawings) as much as possible.Common Shipbuilding Terms Used in the Planking ProcessPlank: Single length of wood used to plank a hull or deck. A strake is a continuousline of planks from wherever it begins to where it ends.Garboard strake: Planking strake adjacent to the keel.Broad strakes: Several planks adjacent to the garboard; wider than most but not aswide as the garboard.Sheer strake: Uppermost line of planking on a hull.Black strake: Heavy hull strake along deck edge, so named because of its usualcolor.Wale: Heavy plank or layer of hull strakes below the black strake.Ceiling: Planks on the inboard side of frames or bulwarks.Spirketing plank: First ceiling plank above the waterway inboard, usually formingthe sill of gun ports.Belts: Group of planks along the hull. Belts are laid out using battens (temporarystrips of flexible wood).Spiling: Process for marking and cutting a plank to a given shape.Edge bending or springing: To bend a plank edgewise.Fair: Refers to smooth, gradual curves when planking.Nib: The pointed end of a tapered plank. Because nibs rot first, shipwrights squaredthem off, then notched the margin plank (covers outer edge of deck) to accept thebutts. Consequently, they called the margin plank the nibbing plank.Nibbing: Process of seating the squared, tapered end of one plank into the edge ofanother. Nibbing generally applies to decks, but sometimes hull planks, especially atthe bow, are nibbed. The British call this procedure joggling.Stealer: Plank inserted into another plank or between two adjacent planks to reducetheir width and provide greater width of coverage. Or, when two planks tapertoward a narrow end, both may have to be cut off and a wider plank substituted toleave enough wood for fastening.Counter: Underside of the overhanging portion of a ship’s stern.FIG. 2-1 PLANKING WITH STEALERSSTEALERSA. PLANKS GETTING TOO WIDEB. PLANKS GETTING TOO NARROWSINGLE INSERTFIG. 2-2 STAGGERING THE PLANKING BUTTSBULKHEADREAL SHIP – MUST BE 5 FEET OR MOREREAL SHIP – MUST HAVE 3 STRAKESBETWEEN BUTTS ON SAME FRAME13

4. SpilingEdge bending planks on real ships occurson a limited basis. Wood is rigid, so manyplanks must be cut to shape. Spiling(Figure 2-3) is simply a matter of transferringcurves to a straight plank, then sawingthem out. Many narrow plankingstrips (especially on models) are flexibleenough to edge bend in place. However,others must be spiled.5. Fastening the PlanksAvoid the commercial plank clamp thatscrews into the edges of bulkheads. Thisleaves a big hole to contend with wheninstalling subsequent planks. Instead, holdshort pieces and use aluminum-head pushpins to position them. Be careful not tosplit the wood. If necessary, drill a pilothole first. Smear a light film of white orwoodworker’s glue along the edge of theplank, then touch each bulkhead with thincyano to affix the plank quickly. Be carefulnot to glue your fingers to the model.Another approach is to apply cyano to theedge of a plank already in place and on thebulkheads above it. Spray or brush thecyano’s accelerator on the plank to beinstalled, then hold it in place. The gluesets instantly, and no clamps are necessary.While glue alone will secure a plank, smallbrass brads or wooden treenails (pronouncedtrunnels) provide additionalholding power and duplicate shipwrightpractice. If using brads, hammer them inafter cutting off and discarding their heads.Treenails are commercially available, butmaking your own is easy. Buy a packageof long bamboo skewers, strip off shortlengths, and pull through a drawplate tothe desired diameter. Drill holes throughthe plank into the frame, dip the treenailin white or yellow glue, and drive inplace. Nip the dowel flush with the planking.For more authenticity, add treenailswhere each frame would be located on areal ship. Although time-consuming, thisis visually correct.Another alternative is to whittle flattoothpicks (round ones don’t work aswell) to a point. Place the entire toothpickin the hole, rap sharply with a 10-inchbastard file, and break off the remainingportion. A file works better than a hammer,because its serrated surface catchesand firmly holds the head of the toothpick,permitting it to be driven in tightly.Exterior stubble is dressed and sandedsmooth when treenailing is completed.6. Hull Planking Schemeand ProcedureThe planking scheme for this model isshown on Plan Sheet 2.Double vs. single planking: Althoughsingle planking would be the real ship3. USE COMPASS – RUN STEEL POINTALONG PLANK IN PLACE AND MARKPARALLEL LINE ON NEW PLANK WITHPENCIL LEAD END2. WOOD – LAY ALONG BULKHEADSWITHOUT EDGE BENDINGPARALLELapproach, this kit is designed with doubleplanking. The first layer of planking will beall 3/64" thick basswood strips. The outerlayer will be 0.020" thick walnut for thebasic plank, and thicker for the black strake,wale, and sheer strake below the rail.As an option, you could single plank thehull. Suggested sizes are as follows:Basic plank — Use the 3/64" basswood providedor 1/16" thick basswood or walnut.If 3/64" is used, use a thicker garboardstrake to fit the rabbet that was designedfor 3/64" plus 0.020" double planking.Black strake — 3/32" thick basswood orwalnut.Wale — 1/8" thick basswood or walnut.Sheer strake — 3/32" thick basswood orwalnut.The 3/64" basswood included in the kitfor the double plank underlay could beused for the basic single plank. All othersizes and wood types would have to bepurchased separately. Model Expo stocksall the sizes needed.First layer of planking: There are two waysto approach applying the basswood underplanking:1. Plank the entire hull in any fashion youdesire, with no regard for locations orproper plank widths except for the wales.You can use as many straight planks aspossible and taper some at the ends ifnecessary. All you are trying to do iscover the entire hull with basswood. Fillall gaps and fill cracks with wood filler,then sand the entire surface so you havea solid base on which to apply the outerlayer of walnut.2. Lay out the basswood under-layer exactlyas you would the finished walnutlayer, using correct plank widths, andlocating the wale, black strake, and otherthicker plank areas in the correct locationson the hull. When the walnut layeris applied, it will be identical to theunder-layer of basswood. However, inthe event there are some mistakes withthe first layer, these mistakes can be correctedon the final walnut layer.The second approach is highly recommended.By planking to the rules andFIG. 2-3 SPILING4. MEASURE WIDTH& MARK DRAWCURVE5. CUT OUTPLANK1. PLANK ALREADYIN PLACEcorrect locations of planks, you will gainsome experience laying out the planking.Practice makes perfect. The final layer ofwalnut will be much easier, since youhave already attempted it once.The following paragraphs address thecorrect locations for both the first andfinal layers of planking.Planking procedure: The transom andcounter should be planked first, boththe under planking and the walnut-finishedplanking. Next, the fashion pieceat the stern should be added, followedby side planking, then end planking.The fashion piece is introduced early,because it covers the end grain of thetransom and counter planks, but moreimportantly, the side planking above thewale butts into the fashion piece and thetransom. The side planks do not gounder the fashion piece. Likewise, thecounter is done early since the lower hullplanking will be butting into the lowestcounter plank. This sequence will bedescribed below.7. Planking the HullPlanking the counter and transom: Thebottom of the lowest counter plank is inline with the bottom of the wales alongside.The transom and counter will bedouble-planked. Plank the transom withthe under-layer of basswood first and followwith the outer layer of walnut. Leavethe openings for the stern windows in thetransom, and a hole for the rudder post inthe counter. Extend the transom plankspast the hull a bit to account for the quarterextensions. Then shape the edge to thecorrect shape for receiving the fashionpiece. An expanded view of the transomis shown on the plans, which list exactplank lengths and widths.Note: The upper basswood plank for thetransom is actually two planks wide. Thisis because there is no backing of the plankabove the cabin top. However, the walnutouter layer is two separate planks.Next, add the walnut filler piece on thefront side of the transom. This filler piecethickens the transom, but more importantlyit covers the exposed portions of14

the basswood planking on the transom.Figure 2-4 illustrates the transom andcounter planking. The filler in front ofthe transom is shown in Figure 2-5, alongwith the fashion piece discussed below.Note: The counter planks are straight across,but the transom planks follow the curve ofthe taffrail. So, cut these planks from widerpieces. Make a template for the curvedplanks so you can cut them all the same.Installing the fashion pieces: Shape andfit the walnut fashion pieces on bothsides of the stern, covering the end grainof the transom and counter planks. Thecurved portion of the fashion piece mustalso be tapered slightly so its width windsup flush on top of the wale (Figure 2-5).Installing the taffrail: You might as well goahead and install the walnut taffrail on topof the transom at this time, or wait until youare working on other rails at your option.Planking the hull sides: At this point, youcan proceed with the hull side planking.Do all the basswood under planking first,then do the walnut-finished planking.Installing the wale: The wale is the thickeststrake and located in line with the waterwayinboard. It’s a good strake to start with.Use a 3/64" thick basswood plank for thefirst layer. It will be covered with 1/16" x3/16" walnut later. An important note: atthe stern, the wale extends aft to the outsideof the counter planking, so cut it offflush with the counter planks. Since theend of the basswood wale would showwhen looking at the stern, there are a coupleof options for making the exposed endlook like walnut. First, use a short length ofwalnut for the wale at the very end insteadof basswood. Or, stain the end of the basswoodto look like walnut.The finished width of the wale is 3/16",but it may require cutting from a slightlywider piece, especially the walnut. Its naturalbend is almost on the button, but youmay need to cut a slight downward curveon the top side of the plank to fit themarks. Tick off the location for the top ofthe wale from the plans and mark it on thebulkheads. As noted, from the quarterdeck forward where the inboard waterwayis located, the top of the wale lines up withthe top of the waterway. Bend and perhapssteam bend the wide wale piece around thehull as close to the marks on the bulkheadas possible. Using a spiling technique,mark the piece. There is no plank above asyet, so you can’t spile along a plank. Drawa curve through the points and cut the topedge of the plank. Now fit it to the hulland see if it lines up on the marks. If not,trim a little and try again until it fits. Oncethe top of the plank fits, draw a parallelline 3/16" below the top edge for the bottomedge (Figure 2-6). You can now gluethe wale to the hull.FIG. 2-4 PLANKING THE TRANSOM & COUNTERCURVED TRANSOMPLANKWINDOWOPENINGSTRAIGHTCOUNTERPLANKCUT TRANSOM ENDS TO CORRECT SHAPEBEFORE INSTALLING FASHION PIECEEXTEND PLANKING BEYONDSIDE BLOCKS TO FORM WINGCUT OFF WALE FLUSHWITH COUNTERBOTTOM PLANK IS IN LINEWITH BOTTOM OF WALEFIG. 2-5TRANSOM FILLER, FASHION PIECE & TAFFRAILFASHIONPIECETAFFRAILPENCIL MARKSLOCATING TOPOF WALEWALEFINISH EDGE OFTRANSOM WINGWALETRANSOMBLACK STRAKE BUTTSINTO FASHION PIECEFIG. 2-6 FITTING THE WALEBULKHEAD2. MEASURE 3/16", CUT BOTTOMOF WALE PARALLEL TO TOPFIG. 2-7 TAPERING WALE AT BOWBBASSWOODWALNUTAFILLER TO ADDTHICKNESS TOTRANSOM1. CUT CURVE IF NECESSARYTO FIT ON PENCIL MARKS.TEST FIT UNTIL CORRECTRABBET IN STEMCUT TORABBET15

Since the wale is thicker than the generalhull planking, taper the forward end ofthe walnut layer for about 2 inches so itfits into the stem rabbet (Figure 2-7).Installing the black strake: The blackstrake sits on top of the wale, and boththe basswood and walnut planks will buttinto the fashion piece at the stern. Its topedge will form the sill of the gunports.The black strake will require cutting toshape and steam bending.Use 3/64" x 3/16" basswood for the firstlayer. The black strake will be coveredlater with 3/64" x 3/16" walnut.Like the wale, taper the forward end forabout 2 inches so it fits into the stemrabbet.Before installing the black strake, cut thehalf round scuppers in the lower edge(Figure 2-8). This will require cuts in bothlayers. At the same time, if there are anyfillers in way of the scuppers betweenbulkheads, cut these out also — it’s easiernow than later. The bottom of theinboard hole for the scuppers is in linewith the top of the waterway.After the walnut layer is added, sand theoutboard top edge of the black strake toform a half-round molding. This savesadding a separate molding (Figure 2-9).Planking above the black strake: Thesheer strake at the very top of the bulwarkforms the top of the gunports. It extendsthe full length of the hull.Use 3/64" x 3/32" basswood for the firstlayer, to be covered by 3/64" x 3/32" walnut.From the sheer strake down to the blackstrake, between the gunports, fit threeequal width 3/64" thick basswood planksto be covered later with 0.020" thick walnut.These planks will require some tapering,and spiling forward.Under the cabin top rail there is a sheerstrake similar to the sheer strake in wayof gunports.Note: The first three strakes of planks abovethe black strake butt into the curved portionof the fashion piece. Above these, theplanks butt into the wing of the transom.Planking below the wale: Use one layerof 3/64" basswood. You will cover theinner layer with 0.020" thick walnut strips.If you don’t care how the inner layerlooks, simply forget the discussion belowand plank it anyway you like. Apply theprocess only to the final walnut layer.However, it is highly suggested that youfollow the rules on both layers. You willget to practice on the first layer, then reallydo a bang-up job on the final layer.Planking from the bottom of the wale tothe keel requires tapering fore and aft.Consequently, the hull below the wale isdivided into Belts A through C.BUTTS SELECT-ED MARK WITHPENCIL (NOTESTAGGER)INNER BLACK STRAKELAYEROUTER BLACK STRAKELAYERFIG. 2-8 SCUPPERSCUT SCUPPERS THROUGHBOTH LAYERSFIG. 2-9 MOLDING AT TOP OF BLACK STRAKECOUNTERROUND EDGE TO FORM MOLDINGBLACK STRAKEWALEFIG. 2-10 FITTING PLANKSPENCIL MARK LOCATINGBULKHEAD FOR INSTALLINGTREENAILS OR PINS IF NOTINSTALLED NOWFIG. 2-11 PLANKING AT STERNNOT SO BADBELOW BULKHEAD “R”PENCILMARKSLOCATINGPLANKSBULKHEADPLANK CUT TO SHAPE & LENGTH(MAKE 2, ONE FOR OTHERSIDE OF HULL)RBULKHEAD “R”QSHARP BEND OVERBULKHEAD “R”16

Referring to Plan Sheet 2, lay a tick stripalong each bulkhead and mark the twobelt seams below the wale. Transfer thesepoints in pencil to the model. Now temporarilytack two 1/16" x 3/32" basswoodbattens along the port and starboard beltlines. Battens assure an accurate run ofplanks by correcting errors in drafting, tickstrip marking, or transferring. You don’tneed a batten at the top of Belt A, becausethe wale is already in place.Once the two battens are in place, checktheir flow. Look at the model from theside and from the bow and stern. Do thebattens have a pleasing, smooth curve?Are they symmetrical? If necessary, adjustthe lower battens, referring to the plankingprofile on Plan Sheet 2. When everythingis fair, make sure the belt seams areclearly visible. Remark those that aren’t.Now, either remove the battens or leavethem in place until they interfere withinstalling a plank.Tapering plank edges: As planking proceeds,the edges of a particular plank mayrequire tapering to butt flush against itsneighbor. Properly machined planks havesquare edges. Butting them together on ahull may produce small gaps. Most aresealed with glue or wood filler, or caulkedon a real ship. Plank edges are often deliberatelytapered, to ensure they buttagainst each other while providing a sufficientgap for caulking. To create a perfectlysmooth hull without gaps, trim eachplank edge as it is fit. The decision totaper or rely on filler is yours.Laying the planks in Belts A and B: Eachbelt is done separately, so planking can startwith any one. Many planks will requirespiling. You will know as soon as you try tofit a plank and can’t edge bend it in place.Belts A and B each include six equalwidth planks amidships which are about3/16" wide or a little less and taper to3/32" – 1/8" at the stem. Lift the plankwidths from the hull planking layout (foreand aft view) with a tick strip. Mark theselines on the bulkheads in pencil. Markany stealers as shown on the plans. BeltsA and B are now completely marked.The next step is to cut planks to fitbetween the marks. First, decide whereyou want plank butts to go. You may havetwo or three planks for each strake. Markthe butt locations on the bulkheads anddon’t forget to stagger the butts per therules. Next, lay a piece of planking stockover the bulkheads and determine if itneeds to be spiled. If so, spile the plankedge to fit the previous plank. Next, inpencil, mark the overall length and cut theplank to its final length. Then, mark theposition of each bulkhead (important formeasuring the plank width and to knowthe location of bulkheads for treenailing).Using a set of dividers or tick strip, lift theplank widths from the marks on the bulkheadsand transfer to the stock. Draw aline through the points and cut the plank.Trace this tapered plank to obtain anotherfor the other side of the hull (Figure 2-10).Continue until this run is finished, thencomplete the others in Belts A and B. Theplanks going over Bulkheads Q and Rand butting into the lower counter planktake a severe bend. So, steam bend theplanks where they curve sharply at thecounter. This is primarily for Belt A. BeltB planks start going into the sternpostrabbet (Figure 2-11). Steam bending mayalso be required at the bow for the upperplanks. Test each plank to see how easilyit bends. If it appears the plank may breakor be difficult to fasten, then steam bend.Laying the Planking in Belt C: This beltconsists of the garboard strake a littlewider than 3/16" and two broad strakesabout 3/16" wide amidships. Mark thebutts as you did on the other belts. Usethe planking profile on Plan Sheet 2 todetermine the plank widths in Belt C aft.The fore and aft planking view can’t showall the planks aft, so this view is necessary.Make sure the garboard fits nicely intothe rabbet along the keel. The garboardwill be a most difficult strake to fit, sotake your time.8. Completing the Double Planked HullOuter hull planking: If all went well above,you should have a completed first layer ofplanks of 3/64" thick basswood. Sand theentire hull until smooth. Now is the timeto add the outer layers of walnut for thebasic plank, wale, black strake, and sheerstrake. If you followed all the rules and laidout the inner layer properly, the walnutcan be laid directly over the basswood,using the basswood seams as a guide forthe walnut seams. If your under-layerbelow the wale was installed withoutregard for proper widths and taperedplanks, then you must go back and followthe layout rules addressed in paragraph 6,following the belt approach.Gunport lining: Within each gunportthere will be some basswood showing —namely bulkhead extensions, sill, header,and black strake inner layer. To cover thebasswood, line the entire gunport openingwith 0.020" walnut. If the model is tobe painted, this step could be ignored.9. Installing Bulwark Ceiling PlanksThe waterways were already installed onthe sub-deck in Stage 1. The ceiling forthe bulwark inboard is 3/64" thick walnutexcept for a 1/16" thick walnut spirketingplank at the waterway. This thick plankholds the fittings for cannon rigging.Before installing this plank, cut the scupperholes in the lower edge in line withthe holes in the black strake outboard.Use one plank above the gunports, onefor the spickering plank, and three equalwidth planks in way of the gunports(Figure 2-12).FIG. 2-12 INSTALLING BULWARK CEILING PLANKSCEILING3/64‘ WALNUT1/16" WALNUTSPIRKETINGPLANKWATERWAYSWEEPPORTCUT SCUPPERS IN LINE WITHSCUPPERS IN BLACK STRAKEFIG. 2-13 MAIN DECK PLANKINGWATERWAYSUB DECKUNDERGUNPORTNIBBING STRAKEONLY 3 NIBBED PLANKS FORWARDNO NIBS FORWARD OF THESEVIEW OF DECK FORWARD17

10. Installing Coamings, Deckand Cabin PlankingHatch and companionway coamings: Themain hatch, galley hatch, scuttle, and companionwaycoamings are located on thelaser-cut sub-decking. Install the walnutcoamings before you add the final basswooddecking strips. Deck planks look bestif fitted around coamings rather than havingthem glued on top of them. Lookahead to Stage 5 for coaming details.Main deck planks: The deck planking is3/64" thick basswood. There is a nibbingstrake adjacent to the waterway. Maindeck planks are laid parallel to the centerline(Figure 2-13).When installing the decking, leave openingslike the ones on the sub-deck. Thereare openings for the galley stack, the bitts,the pumps, and the mast mortise.Front of quarter deck (step): Plank thevertical front of the quarter deck with thesame width basswood planks used for thedeck itself (Figure 2-14).Quarter deck planks: This is the short deckwhere the steering wheel is located. Planksimilar to the main deck. The planks at thefront go over top of the vertical step planks.Cabin top planks: The walnut planks forthe cabin top taper aft as shown on theplans. Before completing the planking,you should install the quarter deck/cabinrail (see paragraph 10).Cabin front planks: Plank the front ofthe cabin with vertical walnut planksdirectly onto the bulkhead. At the sametime, add the door planks. Chamfer (justsand) the edges of all the planks, includingthe door planks so the seams show upbetter. Refer to Stage 5 for door hardware.Caulking deck planks: Paint one plankedge black or dark brown to simulate deckcaulking. Be careful! Too much paint willpenetrate too deeply with unsightlyresults. Do a test first. If it doesn’t work,edge glue the planks with brown woodworker’sglue. This adhesive dries darkenough to replicate caulking.Procedure: Start planking the deck at thecenterline and work outboard. Scrape offany glue that squeezes out before addingthe next plank. Butts can be included oromitted. On a real ship, they don’t showup as readily as the seams. Butts can alsobe scribed after the plank is laid.11. Installing the Main andQuarter Deck, and Cabin RailsMain rail: The main rail is laser-cut walnutand is slightly oversize (width) so it can beproperly fitted. The rail should be sandedflush with the ceiling plank inboard andshould overhang the outer hull plank byabout 1/64". The finished width is 7/32"(Figure 2-15).Roughly fit the rail, then sand theinboard side flush. Use some pins to helphold the rail in place. Check the rail outboardand sand until you have the 1/64"overhang all along the edge. The main railon the real ship actually goes to the stern.For the model you can add a fake strip ofwalnut from the quarter deck rail aft tothe stern (Figure 2-16).Quarter deck/cabin rail: Apply this railas you did the main rail. Use 1/16" walnutstripwood, 7/32" wide. The outboardedge overhangs the hull planking by1/64". The inboard edge in way of thecabin is left square to act as a waterwayfor the cabin top (Figure 2-17).FIG. 2-14 PLANKING THE STEP AT QUARTER DECKQUARTER DECK PLANKFIG. 2-15 INSTALLING THE MAIN RAILPIN IN BULKHEADTO ALIGNSTEPPLANKMAINDECKPLANKMAIN RAILEDGE FLUSHWITH CEILINGINBOARDBEAMS1/64" OVERHANGOUTBOARDFIG. 2-16 FALSE MAIN RAIL AFTFIG. 2-17 INSTALLING THE CABIN TOP RAILCABIN TOP RAILCABIN TOP RAILCABIN TOPPLANKMAIN RAILSUB DECK18

Correcting and SandingAfter installing the planking, examinethe hull for starved glue joints. Fillthese with wood glue and, if necessary,Stage 3: Completing the Basic Hull Structurewood filler or model spackling compound,then smooth the hull and deckwith sandpaper.Stage 4: Mounting the HullIf a natural finish for the walnut is selected,use dark wood filler such as walnutfor the seams.Mounting the hull now prevents damagingit when handling the model. Proper mountingis important, because future alignmentswill require a true waterline. While anymodeler can devise his own mounting, thiskit contains a launching ways system. Otheroptions are noted below.No baseboard is included in the kit. However,one can be purchased from Model Expo.Or, make your own from lumberyard stock.Cherry, walnut, and maple make nice basesthat are relatively inexpensive. Or, youcould use a simple plywood base and builda shipyard diorama — the choice is yours.1. Launching WaysThis type of mounting is most suitable formodels without sails. Basswood strips areprovided in the kit. Stain the basswood tolook like weathered wood or use a morefinished looking stain. See Figure 4-1 forassembly. Adjust the mounting as necessaryso the models load waterline is parallelwith the baseboard.2. Option – Mounting on PedestalsBrass or wooden pedestals can be purchasedfrom Model Expo. Drill the pilotholes for the pedestals. The model shouldsit with the load waterline parallel to thebaseboard. If something went awry andthe balance is off, you can add a brassshim under one pedestal to correct it.One pedestal should be longer than theother, so buy the correct lengths.3. Option – Dr. Feldman’s StandFigure 4-2 illustrates the stand that Dr.Feldman made for his model, which isfeatured in his book.Note: It is recommended that either choicemounting piece be finished before mountingthe hull assembly into place.Models should be cased to protect themfrom dirt and damage. Furthermore, mostcompetitions require entries to be cased. Acase is a cheap insurance policy. Those whowish to follow this route should use the baseboardas the bottom of the case. A case’s outsidedimension should be at least 4" longerthan the model (2" fore and aft), 4" wider(2" port and starboard), and 2" higher.For the gamblers who don’t want a case,round the baseboard’s top edges or cut asimple chamfer. Those with access to arouter can cut mouldings along the edges.Paint or stain the baseboard.SIDE SUPPORTSTRUT P/SALL TIMBERS1/4" SQ. BASSWOODFIG. 4-1 BUILDING THE LAUNCHING WAYSSHAPE TO FIT HULLMAHOGANY OR ANYOTHER WOOD19SIDE SUPPORTSTRUT P/SSUPPORT BLOCKSHEIGHT SET SO MODELWATERLINE WILL BEPARALLEL TO BASEFIG. 4-2 DR. FELDMAN’S STANDMOUNT HULL SOWATERLINE IS PARALLEL TOBASEWATERLINEPARALLEL TO BASEKEEL BLOCKSCROSS TIMBERSSUPPORTRAIL5" – 5-1/2"WIDE

Stage 5: Adding The Hull DetailsThe cut-outs in the laser-cut sub-deckslocate the hatch and companionwaycoamings, mast, galley stack, riding bitts,and pumps. Other items such as catheads,timberheads, eyebolts, and cleats can belocated in relation to these, or from someother benchmark such as a gunport.Lightly mark their positions in pencil.1. Anchors, Catheads, andAnchor StowageThe anchor shanks are britannia castings.Fashion the anchor stocks from wood stripeither from walnut or basswood. The bandsaround the stocks can be 1/64" x 1/16"brass strip provided in the kit, or as anoption, paper bands or just painted bands.The catheads are laser-cut walnut. Theyneed to be sanded down to 5/32" thickfrom the 3/16" thick laser-cut parts. (It wasuneconomical to include 5/32" with thelaser-cuts, as it would have been the onlypart in this thickness.) Also, you may needto shape the catheads a bit to fit the bulwark.Before installing the catheads, drillfour holes at the outer end and cut a shallowgroove between the holes to representsheaves for the hoisting line tackle. Or, youcan add real brass sheaves, but these arenot included in the kit. An additional holeis required for the bitter end of the hoistingtackle just inboard of the sheave holes.For stowage, the anchor can be hungfrom the cathead on the cat block hook,or hoisted up on the rail forward and tiedoff to the timberhead just ahead of thecathead. Make the cat hook from 0.020"dia. wire included in the kit. The hoistingline belays to the timberhead just aft ofthe catheads (Figure 5-1).The actual length of the anchor andstowage are unknown. However, this shipmost likely anchored in fairly shallowwater most of the time, so about 100 feetof anchor cable on each anchor would bereasonable. That’s 25 inches for themodel. In use, the anchor cables wouldbe hitched around the riding bitts. Forstowage, the cable could be in a long coilon deck behind the catheads, but wasmost likely removed and stowed belowvia the small scuttle. You could also leavethe cables attached to the anchors andhave the lines leading below through thescuttle with hatch cover set aside. No realanswer here. Use whatever you think willlook best on the model.The anchor buoys can be stowed inboardon the timberheads. The buoy can beturned in a lathe or hand-carved. It’s just asimple egg-shaped block. The rope harnessfor the buoy is rather small to detail. Youcan simply glue the lines, or even fake thelines with black paint (Figure 5-2).FAKE HINGE FOR TOP(WIRE)FIG. 5-1 STOWING THE ANCHORSCATHEADBUOY LINESEE FIG. 5-2FIG. 5-3 BUILDING THE BINNACLEFORWARDPANELSIDEPANELFEETROUND EDGESHINGEDTOPVENTHOLESBOTTOMOPTIONALAFTPANELFIG. 5-4 BOOM CRUTCHESCABIN TOP RAILLASH TO TIMEBERHEADANCHOR CABLEFIG. 5-2 STOWING THE ANCHOR BUOYSWOODBUOYTIMBERHEADROPE HARNESSGLUE LINES OR FAKE WITHPAINT AS OPTIONCLEATOPTION – LAY BUOYON THE DECKFAKEDRAWERSWINDOWTO VIEWCOMPASSGLASS ORCLEARPLASTICPIN HEADKNOBSBEVEL EDGESTO EMPHASIZESEAMSLASER CUT BOOMCRUTCH P/STAFFRAIL20

2. BinnacleBuild the binnacle from walnut stripwood.Chamfer the edges (just sand) of the fakedrawer fronts so the seams show up better.The drawer pulls can be made from thesmall nails included in the kit or a straightpin head (Figure 5-3).On the real ship, the binnacle is assumedto be bolted to the deck and not lasheddown to deck as you would find on other,larger ships. Just glue it to the deck. Theinside of the binnacle can be painted blackso you cannot see anything inside. As anoption for more detail, add a small compassin the box and use a clear plasticsheet over the opening to represent glass.On a real ship, the binnacle would have alantern in the box on each side to illuminatethe compass. The three small holeson the ends of the binnacle are vent holesfor the lanterns.3. Boom CrutchesThe laser-cut walnut boom crutches fit onthe outboard edges of the transom on topof the cabin top rail. Shape the bottom ofthe crutch as necessary for the correctangle. Round the top edges a bit. Add acleat on the face of each for belaying theafter spreader yard braces (Figure 5-4).4. Cabin DoorsThe doors were installed along with theplanking for the front of the cabin. Referto Stage 2. Fake hinges can be made froma short piece of 0.020" dia. brass wireglued at the seam. The handles are alsomade from wire (Figure 5-5).5. CannonThe cannon barrels are britannia castings. Thecarriage cheeks and the trucks are laser-cutwalnut parts. Make the axles, transom, bedblock, and quoin from walnut stripwood. Thequoin handle could be a brass or wood belayingpin or carved from wood. The trunnionstraps or bands (correct name is cap square)can be made from 1/64" x 1/16" brass stripsupplied in the kit, or from a thinner brasssheet (not supplied) or paper strip. For theringbolts on the cheeks, use the 3/32" splitring supplied in the kit. For the ringbolts onthe bulwarks, use 1/8" split rings and the1/16" o.d. eyebolts. Assemble the cannons asshown in Figure 5-6, and rig per Figure 5-7.There is a ringbolt in the deck behind eachgun that would be used to hook an inhaulor train tackle. The tackle is not rigged onour model, as it was most likely portableor not used at all. Use 1/8" split rings and1/16" o.d. eyebolts for these.The cannons are located at the first 3 gunportsport and starboard. Although thereare fittings on the after gunport, this wasprobably an emergency position. To rig agun there, the pump handles would haveto be removed.PIECE OF WIREFOR FAKEHINGEFIG. 5-5 CABIN DOORSWIRE HANDLECHAMFER EDGES TOEMPHASIZE SEAMSFIG. 5-6 ASSEMBLING THE CANNONSQUOINTRUNNION STRAPBRASS STRIPBEDBLOCKAXLEBLOCKSUPPORTRODAXLEEYEBOLTCANNONBRITTANIACASTINGTRANSOMRINGBOLTTRUNNION STRAPSMALL LASERCUT TRUCKFIG. 5-7 RIGGING THE CANNONTAPERSEIZEBREECHLINEFIG. 5-8 CHANNELSDOWEL &GLUELASER CUTCHEEKGUN TACKLEBLOCKS WITHHOOKSEYEBOLTRINGBOLTCHANNELLARGELASER CUTTRUCKSLOTS FORCHAIN PLATESCOVER STRIP21

6. ChannelsMake the channels from walnut stripwood.They taper outboard. The outboard edge isa separate strip. Cut slots in the edge for thechainplates and, when installed, add theedge strip. Best dowel the channels on thehull for added strength (Figure 5-8).7. CompanionwayBuild the companionway from walnutstripwood and fashion the hinges from1/64" x 1/16" brass strip provided in thekit. The hinge pin can be faked using apiece of 0.020" dia. wire included in thekit. Chamfer (just sand) the edges of theplanking so the seams show up better.Assemble the planked panels on a flat surfacebefore gluing to the corner posts. Thecorner posts have two strips on the inside,forming a rabbet to support the panels.The companionway fits on top of a coamingsimilar to the main hatch. Add sometabs on the companionway sides to fit inthe coaming and help hold the companionwayin place on the coaming. Glue thetabs to the inside of the companionwayfirst. Trial fit, then add glue to the tabs andinsert into the coaming (Figure 5-9).Note that the coaming for the companionwayshould be installed before deck planking.Refer to Stage 2.8. Eyebolts, Ringbolts, and CleatsBoth the hull plan and rigging plans showthe locations of all eyebolts and cleats. Drilla hole wherever an eyebolt is required. Usinga toothpick or microbrush, spread a thinfilm of cyano on the bolt, then insert. Don’toverdo the glue. When all are mounted, tugon each eyebolt to test the bond.Eyebolts supplied in the kit are simply awire bent into a loop. Bend the eye closedif there is a slight gap, or touch with a littlesolder or epoxy glue.Ringbolts are composed of an eyebolt andsplit ring. For these, use the 1/16" o.d. coppereyebolts supplied in the kit. Use 1/8"split rings for hatch ringbolts and cannonringbolts on the bulwarks. For the cannoncarriage, use the smaller 3/32" split rings.After inserting the split ring into the eyebolt,solder or glue the joint.Use the larger 3/32" o.d. brass eyebolts forthose used to attach rigging lines and blocks.The cleats, though probably wood on theship, are britannia castings. Use these, ormake wooden ones from stripwood. Thecleats for deck and spars have a pin moldedon the bottom of the cleat. Drill a hole inthe deck or spar and set the cleat with superglue or epoxy. The shroud cleats have aflange on the bottom. Seize each endaround the shrouds with thread and glue.9. Galley StackFirst, add a wooden walnut base plate forthe stack on the deck. The hole for theFIG. 5-10GALLEY STACKDRILLDEEPER(OPTIONAL)REARPANELCORNERPOSTFIG. 5-9 BUILDING THE COMPANIONWAYSIDEPANELBRITTANIACASTINGDECK PADHOLE INDECKTOUCH EACH JOINTWITH SUPER GLUESAND TOPBRASS STRIPWIRE TOFAKE HINGEWIREMITERJOINTFIG. 5-11 HATCHES AND SCUTTLEOPTIONALCORNER JOINTFIG. 5-12 GALLEY HATCH GRATINGLEDGE PIECE TOSUPPORT COVERHATCH OR SCUTTLE COVERLEDGE PIECECOAMINGLEDGEPIECEMACHINE CUT STRIPSASSEMBLE ONMASKING TAPESTICKY SIDE UPFIG. 5-13 BUILDING QUARTER DECK LADDERSCABIN CAMBERTOPCORNERPOSTTABSTOSECUREPANELSTOCOAMINGCOAMINGFRONT PANELBACKUPSTRIPS(OPTIONAL)OUTBOARD LEGIS SHORTERTREADS PARALLELWITH BASE LINESUB DECKDECK CAMBERPANELCOAMINGSUB DECK22

stack is prelocated by the hole in thelaser-cut sub-deck. Glue the britanniacasting stack in position (Figure 5-10).10. Hatches, Scuttle, and GratingsNote that the coamings should be installedbefore deck planking. Refer to Stage 2.Figure 5-11 illustrates the hatch and scuttledetails. Make from walnut stripwood.Notice that the inside face of the coamingsis 3/64" out from the laser-cut subdeckopenings. A separate 3/64" ledgepiece is glued on the inside of the coamingsto support the hatch covers andgrating. This sits on the sub-deck also.Cut the depth of the ledge piece so thatthe hatch covers and grating will be flushwith the top of the hatch coamings.The hatch lift cover rings are made fromeyebolts and 1/8" split rings providedin the kit.The galley hatch grating is machine-cutboxwood strips, assembled like an eggcrate. Cut the strips to length beforeassembly. Assemble the grating on a pieceof tape to hold it together. Then, take atoothpick and touch a small amount ofCyano to each joint. After the glue driessand the top of the grating smooth anduse a small needle file to clean out anyglue that got into the openings. Fit intothe coaming on top of the ledge piece(Figure 5-12).11. LaddersMake the two small ladders at the quarterdeck from walnut stripwood (Figure 5-13).12. PumpsThe pumps on the real ship are wood, sofor ultra-realism they should be wood onthe model. The barrel is made from thewalnut dowel included in the kit. Themetal bands around the pump could be1/64" x 1/16" brass strips included in thekit, paper, or even a black painted stripe.The handle bracket is laser-cut, but youneed to saw a slot in the top for the handle.Make the handles from stripwood.The rod at the end of the handle is0.020" brass wire. Fit the barrel througha hole the in the deck (precut in the subdeck)(Figure 5-14).13. Riding BittsThe bitts forward of the mast are builtfrom walnut stripwood. Insert these inthe square holes in the deck These werealready cut into the laser-cut sub-deck,and you should have left the openingswhen applying the deck planks(Figure 5-15).These bitts are called riding bitts oranchor bitts, since their major function,along with the belaying lines, was tosecure the anchor cable. The bitts wereused before the windlass was invented.OUTLETBRASS STRAP ORPAPER STRIPDOWELNOTCH BITT ONLYNOTCH BITT& RAILNOTCH RAIL ONLYFIG. 5-14 BUILDING THE PUMPSWIREHOLE IN DECKFIG. 5-15 RIDING BITTSSAW SLOT FOR HANDLELASER CUT HANDLEBRACKETFIG. 5-16 RUDDER PINTLES & GUDGEONSPIN & CUT OFFOPTION – GLUESTRAP ONLYPINTLEMODEL OPTIONRECESS PINTLEINTO RUDDERSOLDER OR GLUEPINBITTCROSS PIECEOR RAILHOLE IN DECKCAN OMIT ONMODELGUDGEON23

14. RudderShape the laser-cut walnut rudder accordingto the plans. Fashion pintles and gudgeonsfrom 1/64" x 1/16" brass stripsincluded in the kit. The pintles are flushwith the rudder, so cut a recess for each(Figure 5-16).The rudder is laser-cut in one piece. Formore realism, especially if the model isnatural finished, scribe seam lines intothe rudder. The plans show the spacing.15. Steering WheelThe steering wheel support is laser-cutwalnut, and the wheel is a britannia castingwhich is to be painted to look likewood. Make the line drum from the suppliedwalnut dowel. The drum must beturned down slightly using a lathe orchucking the dowel in a drill and filing itdown. Drill a hole in the drum for a1/16" dia. brass rod (provided in kit) tosupport the drum and wheel. The rod fitsinto a hole drilled into the cabin front.The tiller lines feed off the drum and gothrough two holes in the deck(Figure 5-17).16. Stern WindowsThe stern window frames are laser-cutwalnut. For more realism, add some glassor plastic sheet on the backside (not suppliedin the kit) (Figure 5-18).You were told earlier to paint the areabehind the windows black so you can’tsee inside. If you forgot, do it now.17. Swivel Guns and Support PostsFashion the swivel gun posts from walnutstripwood. You will need to notch thepost in way of the main rail and sheerstrake, and drill a hole in the top for theswivel. The swivel guns are britannia castings.Fit one into each of the eight posts(Figure 5-19).18. TimberheadsThere are three timberheads projectingabove the rail forward. For the model,these are made from walnut stripwoodand doweled in place (Figure 5-20).Now that all the deck details are complete,get ready for the mast, spars, and rigging.Recheck everything before you proceed.TILLERLINEHOLESIN DECKLASER CUTFIG. 5-17 STEERING WHEELHOLE IN CABIN BULKHEADDRUM – TURN FROM DOWELLASER CUTSTANDFIG. 5-18 STERN WINDOWSBRITTANIA CASTINGSTEERING WHEELOPTION – ADD GLASS OR PLASTIC SHEETPAINT INSIDE FLAT BLACKFIG. 5-19 SWIVEL GUNSNOTCH INWAY OFRAIL & SHEERSTRAKEBRASS RODBRITTANIA CASTINGSWIVELGUN POSTFIG. 5-20 TIMBERHEAD ON RAILFIT FRAMEFLUSHWITHOUTERPLANKDOWELMAIN RAIL24

Stage 6: Mast and Spar ConstructionThere are various opinions regarding theuse of the terms mast and spar. Is a mastalso a spar? Herein, spars are defined asbowsprit, jibboom, boom, gaff, and yards.Masts are lower mast and topmast.Details of all masts and spars with dimensionsare shown on Plan Sheet 4.1. Shaping & Tapering Masts& SparsBeech dowels are provided for the mastsand spars, but they require shaping andtapering. Being round, a dowel is difficultto taper. The best approach is to first cut,plane, or file the dowel from round atmaximum diameter to square at the ends,then to eight-sided, and perhaps even 16-sided. Now sand or file it round. Thisapproach prevents turning a dowel intoan oval (Figure 6-1). If the taper is veryslight, you may not be able to cut itsquare at the end. Try to cut the taper onfour sides down to the approximate diameter,then sand round. Although a littletricky, another way is to chuck a dowelinto an electric drill or lathe and sandin the taper.The topmast has a square heel and needsto be wider than the supplied dowelacross the corners of the square. Figure6-2 shows how to build up a dowel forextra width.2. Building & Installing the MastsLower mast: The mast is round witha rectangular head. After shaping thehead to its proper size, cut the tenonfor the mast cap. Add the rigging chockson the sides of the masthead. Flattenthe sides of the mast in way of the lasercutwalnut trestle tree cheeks (bibbs)(Figure 6-3).The heel of the mast must be shaped tofit the rectangular mast socket on the centerkeel (Figure 6-4). Make sure the mastrake is correct. Check the fit. Add thelaser-cut walnut boom jaw rest on themast with its supporting chocks (cut fromwalnut stripwood).Topmast: This mast begins square at theheel, then round (Figure 6-5). The topmastheel has a rectangular slot for a fid(iron bar preventing the topmast fromsliding through the top). Drill a hole andshape it with a file. The fid should be apress fit. Make the fid from walnut.There is a sheave near the top for the topsailyard halliard. For the model you canfake a sheave by simply drilling a hole,then use a gouge to cut a groove justbelow the hole so the line lays down flatteragainst the mast. Just above the sheaveyou need a shoulder for rigging. Cut thisas you taper the mast.1. CUT SQUARESLICE SIDESFIG. 6-2 SPAR DIAMETER BUILD UP2. ADD WOODFIG. 6-3 SQUARING THE MASTHEADSTOPCHOCKS1. 2.FIG. 6-4 LOWER MAST HEELLASER CUTBOOM JAWRESTCHOCKSFIG. 6-1 SHAPING & TAPERING MASTS & SPARSDESIRED CURVE – MATHEMATICALLY A PARABOLA,BUT VERY CLOSE TO ARC OF A CIRCLE. SIMPLY TAPERSPAR GRADUALLY TOWARDS THE END1ST CUT TO SQUARE IFTAPER ALLOWSCUT TO OCTAGONCUT TOFITCENTERKEELMORTISEFLAT IN WAYOF CHEEKSSTRAIGHT LINE – WRONG!ROUNDDOWELSAND ROUND3. FINAL SHAPECUT TENON TO FITMAST CAP CASTINGBOTTOM OFMAST, MAX. DIA.OF GAFF BOOM,OR CL OF YARDFIG. 6-5 TOPMAST HEELFIDCUT HOLEBUILD UP(SEE FIGURE 6-2)25

Mast cap and trestle trees: The kit haslaser-cut walnut cheeks. Make the trestletrees, filler chocks, and bolsters from walnutstripwood. The mast cap is an ironfitting and is a britannia casting in the kit.Figure 6-6 illustrates the assembly.Note: Notice that the trestle trees are setperpendicular to mast. This was commonpractice on many of these ships. However,sometimes the trestle trees were installedparallel to the load waterline, as done onmany ships. Consequently, this can beconsidered an optional arrangement ifyou so choose.Mast assembly: Before assembling themasts, finish and slip on the mast hoops.You won’t be able to do it after assembly.The hoops in the kit are britannia castings.Paint to look like wood. Glue thecheeks and trestle tree assembly. Prefit thetopmast and the mast cap, but don’tinstall it yet. It will be easier to add theshrouds without the cap in place.Mast wedge/coat and mast installation:On a real ship the mast is secured at thedeck by wedges, then covered by a canvascover called a mast coat. For our model,we have a simple ring to represent this.The mast wedge/coat is laser-cut walnut(Figure 6-7). File the edge and angle thehole to match the mast’s rake. Slip it onthe mast, then insert the mast in the mastsocket. Check the fore and aft alignmentand athwartships. The mast must rake atthe angle shown on the plans. If it doesnot, file the mast heel to its correct slant,then wedge the mast in place with woodslivers. Finally, secure the mast wedge/coat to the mast with woodworker’s glue,but do not glue it to the deck. The mastshould be readily removable in the futurein case of a restoration.3. Building & Installing theBowsprit and JibboomThe bowsprit beech dowel supplied in thekit is oversized, since it is square at theheel, going to hexagon up to the head,then round outboard. The very end of theheel is flattened on the bottom so it sitsflat on the deck. The bowsprit thereforerequires a bit more wood removal thanthe other spars (Figure 6-8).The bowsprit is supplied as a dowel so thewood matches other spars. However, youcould purchase a square piece of similarcolor and grain wood if you feel it wouldbe easier to shape.There is a sheave (drill a hole) at the outboardend for the jibstay, and stop chocks onthe sides for the forestay, bowsprit shrouds,bobstay collars, and footrope stirrups. Makethe chocks from walnut stripwood.The jibboom has a sheave (drill a hole) atits outer end for the topmast forestay. Thejibboom is secured to the bowsprit by two1. CUT SQUARE FIRST 2. OCTAGONHEEL IRON CAST-INGBOWSPRITLASER CUT WEDGECOATFORESTAY STOP CHOCKSFIG. 6-6 MAST CAP & TRESTLE TREESFIG. 6-8 SHAPING THE BOWSPRIT4. FLATTEN TO DECK ANGLE3. ROUNDTAPERFIG. 6-9 DETAILING THE BOWSPRIT & JIBBOOMGAMMON IRONCASTINGBOLSTERSTRESTLE TREESTAPERCHEEKCHOCKSHEEL LASHINGLASER CUTCHEEKSFIG. 6-7 MAST WEDGE/COATJIBBOOMIRON CASTINGSSHEAVEHOLEFOOTROPE STOP CHOCKSMAST CAP CASTINGTAPER HOLE TO FIT MASTBOTH CASTINGS ARE THE SAME WITHSPLIT BOTTOM TO FIT DIFFERENTBOWSPRIT DIAMETERSJIBBOOMSTOP CHOCKSFOR BOBSTAY &OTHER LINESROUNDEDGEGLUE TO MASTNOT TO DECKSHOULDERJIBBOOM IS SETTO PORT SIDESHEAVEHOLEPORT26

iron jibboom fittings (britannia castings),and these fittings angle the jibboomslightly to port of the bowsprit. This isdone so the jibstay can go through thesheave in the end of the bowsprit. Thecastings are both the same but have a splitbottom so they can be fitted to thetapered bowsprit in each position.After the jibboom is installed, lash downthe heel with line around the bowsprit. Thebowsprit is held in place by an iron strap atthe heel on deck and a gammon iron at thestem. These are britannia castings.Figure 6-9 illustrates the entire bowspritassembly.4. Building the Spreader Yardand Topsail YardNote: The lower yard is designated aspreader yard, but could also be called acrossjack.Both yards are round. Instead of shouldersat the yardarms, there is a fore and aft stopchock for rigging. In addition, add thesling cleats at the center of the yards.Some rigging is included, because it’s easierto do while holding the yards. Add thefootropes on both yards, the clewlineblocks on the topsail yard, and the topsailsheet blocks on the spreader yard. Theseyards are installed once rigging commences.Figure 6-10 illustrates the yards.Note: There are no jackstays on the yards.At this period in time, the sails were lacedto the yards.5. Building the Boom and GaffWhen tapering the boom and gaff, noticethat the maximum diameter is not at thecenter like a yard, but more toward the aftend. The boom and gaff have laser-cut walnutjaws (Figure 6-11). Drill the sheavehole at end of boom for the outhaul tackle,then install the stop chocks on the gaff forpeak halliards and the outhaul stop chocks,sheet stop chocks, and cleats on the boom.Complete these spars in hand as much aspossible. Add the footrope to the boomas well as other rigging. The boom andgaff will be installed later.6. Building the Flag StaffThe flag staff for the stern is a simpletapered spar. Add the small cleat for theflag halliard.7. Mast and Spar Bands,and CleatsThe mast cap, bowsprit heel band, gammoniron, and jibboom irons are all britanniacastings in the kit. Because of casting limitations,these fittings are about 1/32" thick.Full size that’s 1-1/2". Obviously, theyshould be thinner, about 1/2" to 1" fullsize. You can file these fittings down for amore scale-like appearance, or make yourown using brass strip. The mast cap on themast need not be filed down because it isflush with the square head anyway. Youcould file down the round part that holdsthe topmast.The cleats for the mast and boom arebritannia castings. They have a pinmolded at the bottom. Drill a hole in thespar and insert the cleat. Use some superglue or epoxy to fix them. For the flagstaff you will need to cut the cleat pin offa bit so it does not go all the waythrough the spar.Reminder: Paint and detail yards, gaff, andboom before setting them aside. Once riggingcommences, they must be ready toinstall on the mast.FIG. 6-10 YARD DETAILSCENTERLINE OF YARDFIG. 6-11 BOOM & GAFF JAWSLASER CUT JAWSEYESPLICEBOTH ENDSQUARTERBLOCKSROUNDENDSSTOP CHOCKSFOOTROPESLING CLEATSFORWARD SIDE ONLYMETAL BANDS(OR PAPER STRIP)FILE A SLOPE IN THROAT OFGAFF JAWSStage 7: General Rigging InformationNewcomers to the nautical world shouldlearn the following rigging terms used onthe plans and in instructions.Each edge and corner of a sail has aname. On a square sail, the top is thehead, the bottom is the foot, and sides theleech. The lower corners are the clews. Ona fore and aft sail, the top is the head,bottom the foot, aft side the leech, andforward side the luff. The lower forwardcorner is the tack, aft lower corner theclew, upper forward corner the throat, andthe aft upper corner the peak. A triangularsail is similar, but the upper corner iscalled the head. It has no throat or peak.Standing rigging: Fixed rigging supportingmasts and yards. Generally, standing riggingis tarred; hence, it is black or dark brown.Shrouds: Transverse lines supporting themasts. Deadeyes are wood and have threeholes for reeving the lanyards (lines usedto tighten shrouds, stays, and other lines).A heart or bullseye is similar to a deadeye.The heart is somewhat heart-shaped andhas a heart-shaped hole with grooves forthe lanyards. It is used for more permanentinstallations. The bullseye is roundwith a round hole.Chain plates: Iron bars or rods holdingshroud deadeyes along the hull.Footropes: Lines on yards, booms, andbowsprits on which seamen stand whileworking and furling sails. Stirrups hold thefootropes, which are sometimes called horses.Ratlines are the footropes on shrouds.Stays and backstays: Lines supporting themasts from fore and aft forces. A runningbackstay has a moveable tackle on deck.Bobstays: Support the bowsprit fromupward loads. Bowsprit shrouds, or guyssupport the jibboom and bowsprit fromside forces.27Running rigging: Lines that move, reeve(go) through blocks, or operate sails andspars.Blocks: Wooden or metal shells with sheaves(pulleys) for handling lines. A purchase (tackle)consists of several blocks and a line toprovide a mechanical advantage for handlingsails and spars. Jig tackle is a termdescribing a tackle at the deck end of a rig.Halliards or halyards: Lines for raisingand lowering a sail, yard, boom, gaff, orflag. The part of a halliard attached to ayard is the tye. For gaffs, the outer halliardis the peak halliard. At the gaff jaws is athroat halliard, named for the part of thesail it operates. Downhauls, outhauls, andinhauls drag a sail along a boom or upand down a stay.Sheets: Lines holding the lower corners ofa sail or boom. When not in use, sails arefurled (bundled on the yards, booms, or

masts). Clewlines pull up the corners of asquare sail, leechlines pull up the side, andbuntlines pull up the belly for furling.Brails are like buntlines, but they pullloose-footed fore and aft sails toward themast for furling.Reef bands: Horizontal reinforcing bandson a sail. They have short lengths of ropecalled reef points. In heavy weather,sailors tie the reef points to a yard orboom to shorten the sail.Parrels or parrals: Lines or devices likeribs and trucks for holding yards, booms,and gaffs to their respective masts andspars. A truss, jeer, and sling are similar toa parrel. These are lines or iron fittingsholding a yard up and against the mast.They are most common on stationarylower yards.Braces: Lines attached to yardarms (theends of a yard) for directing a yard’s angleand holding it taut. Lifts are standing orrunning lines for holding yards when loweredor tilting them. A topping lift is a lineholding up the end of a boom when thegaff is down or absent. Vangs, port andstarboard lines, prevent a gaff from swingingsideways.1. Rigging SchemeThe Virginia Sloop model is designed tobe rigged without sails. Even so, many ofthe sail lines, such as halliards and downhaulsfor headsails, and square sail sheetsand clewlines, will be rigged.A small-scale sail plan for those desiringto add sails is shown on Plan Sheet 4. Nodetails for making model sails are includedherein. However, as a reference considerModel Shipways’ Pride of Baltimore IIor Flying Fish instruction manuals. Bothhave instructions for making model sails.Steel’s book listed in the bibliography hasgood details about real ship sails.For information, the ship has 4 fore andaft sails; three headsails — a flying jib, jib,and foresail; and, abaft the mast, a mainsail.These are used for maximum windwardperformance. A single square topsailis for speed off the wind. The topsailsheets are lead by a spreader or crossjackyard that also serves as a yard for anoptional lower square sail which would beused in light wind conditions. This sailcould be called a main course, crossjacksail, or simply a square sail.These instructions provide some generalguidance for rigging sails if they are installed.2. Rigging PlansPlan Sheet 4 shows the scale details ofmasts and spars, a belaying plan, and ahalf-scale sail plan. In addition to thebelaying locations, the belaying planshows all the eyebolts required for riggingexcept for those at the bow on thehull. The eyebolts are also shown on theTWISTBECKETSEIZEFIG. 7-1 MODEL BLOCK STROPPING METHODSCUT OFF & GLUEVISE1. WORM 2. PARCEL 3. SERVEREAL SHIPHOOKCONSTRICTOR KNOT(WILL NOT LOOSEN)USE OF WIRE FOR STROPSBRASSHOOKTWISTUSE OF RIGGING LINEFIG. 7-2 SERVING RIGGING LINESFISH HOOK OR OTHER TYPEOF SWIVELTHREADSERVING ONLYFOR MODEL1. TWIST 2. INVERT 3. DRILL HOLEIN BOTTOMOF BLOCKSINGLE STROP FOR LARGER BLOCKSTIE SLIP KNOT &GLUE OR SEIZEFIG. 7-3 SEIZING METHODSCLOVE HITCH11 21ORGLUEFAKE EYESPLICEWRAPOPTION – SECURE LINEIN LATHE AND ROTATEHEAD BY HANDSTARTER KNOTSCONSTRICTOR KNOTOR CLOVE HITCHTIE & TOUCH WITH GLUEWHEN SERVINGCOMPLETE2WRAPSEIZINGTWIST3TUCK & GLUESEIZE,OR GLUE,OR BOTH28

hull plan, Sheet 3, including the ones atthe bow. Refer back to Stage 5 for eyeboltsizes to use for rigging.Plan Sheet 5 shows all the standing rigginglines, which are mostly black (tarredlines on a real ship) except for any movingtackle lines. These would be tan lines(hemp or manila on a real ship).Plan Sheets 6 and 7 show the runningrigging, which are all tan lines (hemp ormanila on a real ship). Since some of theblocks on the running rigging plans areactually attached to standing rigging lines,these standing lines are noted by short dotdashlines on the running rigging planswhere the block is attached. Sheet 6 showssome enlarged details of blocks, strops, andattachments to items such as eyebolts.There are also some sketches of how tobelay lines to rails and cleats.Study the plans and the sketches providedin these instructions, and have a completepicture of each rig before starting. Do thisand everything will proceed smoothly.3. Rigging Line, Blocks, Bullseyes,Hearts, and Deadeye SizesAll block, bullseye, deadeye, and riggingline sizes are shown on the plans in modelscale inches. These sizes relate to the linesand blocks supplied in the kit. The line,deadeye, and bullseye sizes are diameters.The block size is the length of the block.Plan Sheet 3 provides a conversion table formillimeters and for full ship size inches.The large hearts for the forestay are lasercutwalnut. Cut or file the stroppinggroove around the heart, and round theinside hole a bit.4. Block DetailsSometimes, commercial blocks suppliedin kits do not have fully rounded topsand bottoms. To make them look better,round the ends with a needle file. Also,use a small drill bit or reamer and cleanout and enlarge the sheave holes so linesreeve easier.Plan Sheet 6 shows the real ship detailsassumed for the Virginia Sloop for blockstropping and seizing to eyebolts andother fixtures. Notice there are severaloptions you can use. Figure 7-1 illustratessome model stropping methods to simplifythe work. As the plans state, the use ofmetal hooks for securing blocks to eyeboltswas certainly an option, but these are consideredtoo expensive an item to includeon this small sloop. However, the hookmay be a simpler option for the model.5. Treating the LinesWorming, parceling, and serving: Lineson ships were wormed, parceled, andserved wherever chafing might occur.Shrouds are a prime example. Worminginserts thin pieces of line (worms)between the strands. Parceling winds canvasstrips saturated with tar around thewormed part. Then the wormed andparceled area is served (bound in theopposite direction with spun yarn). Servingis the only procedure recommendedfor the model. However, most modelersomit it, preferring to use the line as isafter applying a heavy coat of beeswax.Those striving for authenticity shouldserve only the largest lines, shrouds, andforestay with the kit’s polyester, fine silk,or linen thread. Avoid unwaxed cottonif possible — it’s too fuzzy. Figure 7-2illustrates a set-up for serving lines.Seizings: Seize lines with the suppliedpolyester thread, then touch with dilutedwhite glue or thin cyano (Figure 7-3).Beeswax: Protects lines against moistureand lays down fuzz. To soften beeswax,hold it to a light bulb. Run the line acrossthe beeswax, then through your fingers tosoften and smooth it. Do this severaltimes to coat the line thoroughly.6. Belaying LinesLocations for belaying lines are shown onthe belaying plan on Plan Sheet 4. The linesbelay to the riding bitt rail, cleats on rails,bulwarks, shrouds, mast, and spars, or totimberheads on the rails. There are no belayingpins on this model. Figure 7-4 showshow to belay lines and add a coil of rope.7. Rigging ToolsSome homemade tools may be useful forthe rigging process (Figure 7-5). Similarshapes are commercially available.FIG. 7-4 BELAYING LINES TO RAILS & CLEATS1. HITCHHITCH#12. COIL1.4. LOOP OVERCLEATHITCH#2HITCH#12.COILLOOSEENDTO RAIL3. TWISTBIGHT OFLINETO CLEATCOIL SEPARATE FROM LINESIMPLIFIED METHOD1. HITCH 2. HANG SEPARATECOIL OVER CLEATSIMPLIFIED METHODWOOD HANDLEFIG. 7-5 HOMEMADE RIGGING TOOLSBRASS RODPUSHFLATTEN END AND FILESHAPEPULLMAKE SEVERALLENGTHSFILE OUT HEAD OF A STEELOR PLASTIC (CROCHET) NEE-DLE TO FORM HOOKAll the standing rigging lines are shown onPlan Sheet 5. The color of the lines isnoted on the plans. Most are black to representtarred lines, except for tan lines (nottarred) used for a tackle. Before starting,sort lines by size, coat with beeswax, andkeep them handy. For seizings, use thethread in the kit. It is prewaxed anddoesn’t require beeswax, but double dutywon’t hurt. Keep white glue and cyanoready for dabbing on a seizing if necessary.Usually, sewing through a shroud followedby a half hitch prevents the seizing fromStage 8: Installing Standing Riggingunraveling. If you elect to serve the largerlines, do that first and serve a little moreline than needed for each rig, just to makesure you don’t come up short.Plan Sheet 5 also shows a propersequence for installing the shrouds, backstays,horse, and stays at the masthead.1. ShroudsLower mast shrouds: The lower deadeyeshave combined chain plate and deadeyestrops. These are britannia fittings providedin the kit. Fit the deadeyes in the29strop, and either glue in place or squeezedown on the strop to fix in place. Eachchain plate goes over a slot at the edge ofthe channel. After inserting the chainplate, cover the outer edge of the channelwith a containing strip(Figure 8-1).There are two pair of shrouds on eachside. The eye at the top is seized together.This can be done off the model, becauseyou have not yet installed the topmast.Start on the starboard side with the first

pair, then alternate them port and starboard(Figure 8-2). To set up the shrouds,make a temporary brass wire fixture tospace the deadeyes as seizing progresses(Figure 8-3).The fixture should be longer than thefinal spacing of deadeyes. Reeving (to passa rope through a block or hole) the lanyardswill tighten the shrouds to theirfinal proper spacing. Make a test shroudfirst to see how much it stretches.Figure 8-3 also shows the sequence forreeving lanyards. When looking outboardat any deadeye, start the knot in theupper deadeye left-hand hole. Consequently,port deadeyes have the knot aft,and starboard deadeyes have it forward.Rigging shrouds can pull the mast out ofalignment, so keep checking on it.The bitter end of the shrouds is on theopposite side from the lanyard knot,so on the port side the bitter end isforward, and on the starboard side it isaft (Figure 8-4).Next, rig the ratlines. Figure 8-5 showsseveral methods. Give the line a generouscoat of beeswax before installing. This willhelp hold the ratlines in a slight downwardcurve. If the ratlines tend to bowupward, tug them gently into position.Touching the loops with white glue orcyano will “freeze” them. Try holding agroup of shrouds between your fingers soas not to alter their spacing while tyingthe knots.Finally, install the cleats on the shrouds.The cleats are britannia castings andhave a flange on the bottom, so the cleatcan be secured to the shroud by wrappingboth ends with thread. Touch withsuper glue.Topmast shrouds: There are no topmastshrouds on this model. However, thereare topmast backstays, discussed in paragraph3 below. These do the same job asshrouds on the Virginia Sloop.Note: Install the topmast when you areready to do the upper rigging.2. Spreader Yard HorseThis is a single line in front of the mastfrom the head of the mast down to thedeck. It functions as an accessory mast toguide the spreader yard when raising andlowering. It is required because the yardparrel would hit the mainsail mast hoopsif around the mast.Fit the horse over the masthead usingan eyespliced loop. Set the lower endto deadeyes in front of the mast(Figure 8-6).3. BackstaysLower mast backstays: These are runningbackstays port and starboard. Theeye around the masthead is seized belowMODELOPTIONSREALSHIPCHANNELFIG. 8-1 CHAIN PLATESFIG. 8-5 RIGGING RATLINESCLOVEHITCHDEADEYEEYESPLICENOTCHCHAIN PLATEPIN TO HULLTHREAD WITHNEEDLE – CUTOFF & GLUEALL CLOVE HINGESCUT OFF & GLUELASHSHROUDSCOVERSTRIPFIG. 8-2 SEQUENCE FOR INSTALLING SHROUDS1. STARBOARD PAIR3. STARBOARD PAIRFIG. 8-3 SPACING THE DEADEYESSEIZESTARTKNOTHERETIE AROUNDSHROUDLANYARDLOOKINGOUTBOARDREEVING THE LANYARDSTWISTED WIREJIG TO HOLDDEADEYESAT CORRECTSPACINGSEIZING4. PORT PAIR2. PORT PAIRFIG. 8-4 UPPER DEADEYE SEIZINGSHORT ENDALWAYS ONLEFT SIDEWHEN LOOKINGINBOARDLOOKING INBOARDCLOVEHITCHSHROUDSEIZESEIZESEIZEDEADEYE30

the trestle trees, and one end goes to portand the other end to starboard. From theeye there is a pendant port and starboardwith blocks on the ends. Below that thereis a tackle which has a standing end fixedto the rail eyebolt at the quarter deck.The line reeves through the upper pendantblock and down to a jig tackle whichis set to an eyebolt on the quarterdeck/cabin rail. The fall of this tackleis belayed to a cleat on the inside ofthe bulwark below the rail eyebolt(Figure 8-7).Topmast backstays: These port and starboardstays have an eye at the topmastand set up to thimbles with lanyards. Thelower thimble has a short pendant whichis seized to the same rail eyebolt used forthe lower mast backstays. The kit containssmall bullseyes that can be used for thethimbles. Or, just use a seized end loop inthe line instead of actually installing athimble (Figure 8-8).4. Fore & Aft StaysForestay: The forestay has a moused eyeover the masthead, then sets up to thelaser-cut walnut hearts with a collararound the bowsprit (Figure 8-9). Oneway to make the mouse on a model isto use a wooden tear- shaped bead andpaint it black or serve over it. Or, justignore the mouse and seize the end.The hearts need to be shaped up a bit,and cut a groove around them for theline and collar.Jibstay: The jibstay at the head also has amoused eyesplice like the forestay. Thestay leads down and through the sheavehole in the end of the bowsprit. FromFIG. 8-6 SPREADER YARD HORSEMASTHEADFIG. 8-7 RIGGING LOWER MAST BACKSTAYSMASTHEADEYESPLICESEIZE IN BACKOF MASTTO PORTSIDESAME RIG ASSTARBOARD SIDEFORWARDSEIZESINGLE BLOCKDEADEYES &LANYARDSEYEBOLT IN DECKON CENTERLINESEIZESINGLEBLOCKSTO CLEATINSIDE BULWARKEYESPLICERAILEYEBOLTS IN RAILFIG. 8-8 RIGGING TOP MAST BACKSTAYSSAME RIGONPORT SIDETOPMAST HEADSEIZEEYESPLICESFIG. 8-9 RIGGING THE FORESTAYMASTHEADMOUSEEYESPLICEDLOOPSEIZESIMPLIFIED OPTIONBULLSEYESSTARTSEIZE OR GLUEBITTER ENDOF LANYARDFORWARDSAME EYEBOLTUSED FOR LOWERBACKSTAY BLOCKGLUE ON TOPOF HEARTSEIZELASER CUT HEARTS(ADD GROOVEAROUNDTHE EDGE)STARTSEIZESEIZE BITTER END OFLANYARD OR GLUEBOWSPRITPENDANTEYESPLICESEYEBOLTRAILSIMPLIFIEDLASHING31

there it terminates into a tackle seized toan eyebolt on the starboard side of thestem. The fall for the tackle is belayed tothe first starboard timberhead on the rail(Figure 8-10).Topmast forestay: From an eyesplice atthe topmast (no mouse), the stay leads tothe end of the jibboom, through a travelerinhaul ring on the jibboom, then throughthe sheave at the end, back to a tackle likethe jibstay, but secured to an eyebolt onthe port side of the stem. The fall belaysto the port forward timberhead.The traveler ring is used to inhaul ortighten the topmast forestay. Make thering from brass wire. Attach inhaul lines(tan color running rigging) to each sideof the ring and belay the lines to the portand starboard cleats just off centerlineon the forward rail. Figure 8-11 illustratesthe rigging.5. Bowsprit RiggingBobstay: The bobstay is a single linegoing through a hole in the stem, andseized or eyespliced to itself. At the endof the bowsprit it sets to bullseyes witha collar (Figure 8-12).Bowsprit shrouds: These shrouds areport and starboard. An eyesplice is fittedaround the end of the bowsprit, and theshroud terminates into a tackle set to aneyebolt on the hull side. The tackle fall isbelayed to itself (Figure 8-13).6. Footropes and ParrelsFootropes are required on the bowsprit(Figure 8-14). The bowsprit has stopchocks for the footrope stirrups. The aftends of the footropes seize to eyebolts onthe hull. The forward ends seize aroundthe end of the bowsprit. The footropeshave several knots in the line to keep acrew member from slipping along thefootrope. Footropes are also on the yardsand boom, but should have been installedearlier with yards in hand. The boomfootropes have knots like the bowspritfootropes, but the yard footropes don’t.Refer back to Stage 6.Parrels for the spreader yard and topsailyard are also considered standing rigging,as they are black. However, refer to Stage9 for a description of these lines.This completes the standing rigging.Check for shiny glue spots and touch upwith paint or shoe polish.FIG. 8-13 RIGGING THE BOWSPRIT SHROUDSBELAY END AROUND BLOCKEYEBOLT IN HOLEFIG. 8-10 RIGGING THE JIBSTAYBELAY TO TIMBERHEAD ONRAILSINGLEBLOCKSSAME BOTH SIDESSINGLE BLOCKSMASTHEADMOUSE – FOR SIMPLIFIEDVERSION, SEE FIGURE 8-9EYEBOLT ON STARBOARD SIDE OF STEMSTEMSHEAVE HOLEJIBBOOMBOWSPRITFIG. 8-11 RIGGING THE TOPMAST FORESTAYTOPMAST HEADSTEMEYESPLICERING INHAULP&SBELAY TO TIMBERHEADON RAILSINGLE BLOCKSEYEBOLT ON PORTSIDE OF STEMTRAVELER RINGSEIZEJIBBOOMSHEAVE HOLEFIG. 8-12 RIGGING THE BOBSTAYEYESPLICES & LASHING –FOR SIMPLIFIED VERSION, SEE FIGURE 8-9SEIZEHOLE IN STEMSTARTBOWSPRITCOLLARSEIZE OR GLUE BITTER ENDLANYARDSBULLSEYESBOWSPRITEYEBOLT IN HULL P/SFIG. 8-14 RIGGING BOWSPRIT FOOTROPESBOWSPRITSTOPCHOCKSSAME BOTH SIDESSTIRRUPSLIP – PREVENT KNOTS32

Stage 9: Installing Running RiggingAs noted earlier, even if this model is tobe rigged without sails, it was common toleave many of the lines for handling thesails in place, obviously including theirblocks. Having some running rigging onthe model enhances its authenticity andappearance, so the more lines the better.Also, there will be some eyebolts andcleats on the model that are not usedbecause of the sail omission.Seize blocks in place before adding rigging.Although the rigging sequence isn’tcritical, starting at the bow and workingaft is recommended. Do the fore and aftsail rigs first, then add the square sail rig.Plan Sheet 4 has a suggested belaying planfor belaying all lines. However, there areno hard and fast rules where to belay. Feelfree to modify any belaying point if youfeel a line runs better to another point.All the standing rigging was installedusing Plan Sheet 5. Plan Sheets 6 and 7show all the running rigging lines andtheir blocks and where they are attachedto any standing rigging.If you have not done so already, install allthe cleats necessary for belaying runningrigging. The cleats are britannia castings.Cleats for the deck and spars have a pinmolded into the bottom of the cleat. Setthese cleats in a drilled hole with a touch ofsuper glue or epoxy. Cleats on the shroudshave a flange at the bottom. Secure these tothe shrouds with glue and thread.1. Fore Staysail, Jib, and Flying JibThese three sails, called headsails, wouldhave a halliard tackle at the head and adownhaul that would also be attached tothe head and run down to the bowsprit orjibboom, where it goes through a blockand back to belay on the ship. The sailswould also have port and starboard sheets.For the model without head sails, it isassumed the sheets are removed with thesails and only the halliards and downhaulsremain. The eyebolts and cleats for thesheets will be unused. When rigged, locatethe lower halliard block (or just the halliardfor flying jib) down near the bowsprit/jibboomclose to the downhaul block. Belaythe downhaul lines to the cleats at the bowas shown on the belaying plan. The headsailhalliards belay to cleats on the mast.The fore staysail halliard and jib halliardblocks are seized to the throat of thestays. The flying jib halliard block isseized around the topmast head. Figure9-1 shows the entire rig for the jib. Theother two sail rigs are similar, as shownon the plans.Rigging with head sails: If the sails areadded, you will need to include thesheets. Eyebolts and cleats are alreadyFIG. 9-1 RIGGING THE JIB HALLIARD AND DOWNHAUL WITHOUT SAILEYEBOLT IN RAIL P/SMASTHEADBELAY LINES PERBELAYING PLANSEIZE SINGLE BLOCK TO JIBSTAY – PORTSIDEJIBSTAYSINGLE BLOCKSHITCH DOWNHAUL TOHALLIARD BLOCKHALLIARDSEIZE DOWNHAULBLOCK TO JIB STAYDOWNHAULFIG. 9-2 RIGGING WITH A JIB SAILHALLIARDDOWNHAULJIBSHEET ON OTHERSIDE OVER TOPOF FORESTAYSINGLE BLOCKP/SSHEET P/SJIBSTAYBOWSPRITADD HANKS – A SPLITBRASS RING ISRECOMMENDEDFIG.9-3 RIGGING THE GAFF PEAK HALLIARDSEYESPLICESTOPCHOCKPEAK HALLIARDGAFFSINGLEBLOCKSEIZEJIG TACKLESINGLE BLOCKDOUBLE BLOCKMASTCAPSTOP CHOCKDOUBLE BLOCKBELAY TO RIDINGBITT RAILFORWARDEYEBOLT IN DECK –STARBOARD SIDEOF MAST33

on the model for these lines and are identifiedon the belaying plan. Also, the halliard/downhaulconnection would moveup and be attached to the head of the sail.Figure 9-2 illustrates the rig.2. MainsailYou should have all the mast hoops forthe sail on the mast. Even with no sails,the hoops would still be around the mastin a pile. The mast hoops in this kit arebritannia castings. Paint them to looklike wood.Gaff: The gaff is rigged with a peak halliardand throat halliard. The location ofthe gaff is optional. Realistically, if no sailis present, the gaff should be lowered so itsits parallel and just above the boom.This option is shown on the rigging profile.However, many modelers like thegaff hoisted so it fills up the space behindthe mast. That’s your choice. If the gaff isin the up position, there is nothing tohold the gaff taut, since this ship has nogaff vangs. The only option is to pin orglue the gaff in a permanent position atthe mast.The gaff peak halliard block at the masthead is seized around the masthead supportedby stop chocks on the masthead.The peak halliard fall goes to a jig tacklesecured to an eyebolt at the forward starboardside of the mast (Figure 9-3). Thethroat halliard block is seized to an eyeboltin the chock between the trestle trees.The throat halliard has a similar jig tacklesecured to an eyebolt on the forward portside of the mast (Figure 9-4). The falls ofboth jig tackles belay to the bitts rail forwardof the mast.Rig the flag halliard at the end of the gaffthrough a small block. The block is notincluded in the kit — here’s your chanceto make a block. Both ends of the halliardbelay to a cleat on the boom(Figure 9-5).Boom: For the boom, install the boomsheet. The lower block attaches to thetraveler rod on top of the cabin. Thesheet belays to a cleat on the underside ofthe boom (Figure 9-6). The topping liftstanding end is secured to an eyebolt justbelow the mast cap at the masthead. Itgoes through a block at the end of theboom and back up through a block seizedaround the masthead. From there, it goesto a jig tackle set to an eyebolt on the starboardchannel, and the fall belays to acleat on the shroud (Figure 9-7).The boom can be sitting on the port orstarboard boom rest or just hanging fromthe topping lift. The flagstaff could beinstalled at the stern with the boom inone of these positions. It could also beinstalled with the boom hanging from thetopping lift but slightly to port or starboardto miss the staff.EYEBOLT INDECK ON PORTSIDE OF MASTFIG.9-4 RIGGING THE GAFF THROAT HALLIARDFORWARDTHROATHALLIARDEYEBOLT ATGAFF JAWSEYEBOLT IN TRESTLETREE CHOCKSINGLE BLOCKSJIB TACKLE RIG IDENTICAL TOPEAK HALLIARD PER FIGURE 9-3FIG.9-5 RIGGING THE FLAG HALLIARD ON GAFFBOOMSTOP CHOCKSDOUBLE BLOCKSINGLE BLOCKSMALL SINGLE BLOCKFLAG HALLIARDGAFFFIG.9-6 RIGGING BOOM SHEETSCOLLARBOOM SHEETBRASS RINGEYESPLICELASHINGBELAY TO CLEATUNDER BOOMBOOM SHEET TRAVELER RODON CABIN TOPGAFFBELAY TO CLEATON BOOMSIMPLIFIEDGLUECOLLARTOGETHER34

The lines rigged above are basic to thegaff and boom. However, the sail wouldhave an outhaul at the clew of the sail.Knot off the outhaul tackle at the sheavein the boom, and rig the tackle along theboom (Figure 9-8).Rigging with the mainsail: If the mainsailis actually installed, the only real differenceis that the gaff must be in the upposition, and the outhaul tackle isattached to the sail. Also, you will needto sew the mast hoops to the sail and lacethe sail to the gaff. For this ship, the sailmay be loose-footed at the boom, but itcould have been laced to the boom(Figure 9-9).3. TopsailTopsail yard: If you have not rigged theyard footropes and installed the clewlineblocks, do it now. Locate the yard justabove the mast cap as if the yard hasbeen lowered on its lifts. Rig the halliardfirst. The halliard goes through thesheave hole in the mast, then to a tacklejust like the boom topping lift tackle,but secured to the aft end of the portchannel, and the fall belays to a shroudcleat (Figure 9-10).Next, add the parrel (really black standingrigging) to the yard around the mast(Figure 9-11). Then, rig the port and starboardlifts that feed through blocks seizedto the mast, then down, and are belayedto the riding bitt rail (Figure 9-12).SINGLE BLOCKFIG.9-7 RIGGING THE BOOM TOPPING LIFTTOPPING LIFTEND OF BOOMEYEBOLTPENDANTEYEBOLT IN STARBOARD CHANNELMASTCAPCOLLARSTOP CHOCKSINGLE BLOCKDOUBLE BLOCKJIG TACKLESINGLE BLOCKFIG.9-8 RIGGING THE MAINSAIL CLEW OUTHAULSHEAVEHOLEBOOMTIE CLEW OUTHAULTO SAILMAINSAILKNOTOUTHAULSINGLE BLOCKSSTOP CHOCK P/SCOLLARFIG.9-9 RIGGING WITH A MAINSAILLACE SAIL TO GAFFREEF POINTSON SAILCLEATSEW MASTHOOPS TO SAILTIE TACKAROUND BOOMLOOSE FOOTED (MOST LIKELY) OR LACE TO BOOMFIG.9-10 RIGGING THE TOPSAIL YARD HALLIARDFIG.9-11 RIGGING THE TOPSAIL YARD PARRELFORWARDHOLE AT MASTHEADSEIZEHALLIARDTOPSAIL YARDMASTSEIZE AND SERVE ALL AROUNDDOUBLE BLOCKEYESPLICESWITH LASHINGGLUEHERESINGLE BLOCKPENDANTEYEBOLT INPORTCHANGEYARDSIMPLIFIED35

Port and starboard braces are seized toeach yardarm, go down and through doubleblocks at the end of the bowsprit,then back to the hull and belay to cleatsat the bow. The double blocks serve boththe topsail yard and spreader yard braces(Figure 9-13).The yard has a port and starboard clewlineblock for the topsail. With the sailsoff, tie the clewline to the topsail sheetsup near the yard. The clewlines gothrough the blocks on the topsail yard,then down to belay to cleats on theshrouds. The sheets feed through theblocks at the spreader yardarm, thenthrough the quarter blocks and down,and belay to the riding bitt rail(Figure 9-14).Rigging with the topsail: If the sail isadded, then the clewlines and sheets areactually attached to the sail. The sail islaced to the yard, and some buntlineswould be fitted. Buntlines could belay toany spare cleats on the shrouds or mast(Figure 9-15).Spreader yard: Rig the footropes and thetopsail sheet blocks if you have notalready done so. The parrel, black line, forthis yard goes around the vertical horseline in front of the mast (Figure 9-16).FIG. 9-13 RIGGING THE TOPSAIL YARD BRACESTOPSAIL YARDSAME BOTH SIDESFIG.9-12 RIGGING THE TOPSAIL YARD LIFTSSTOP CHOCKBRACESINGLE BLOCKSTOP CHOCKGO DIRECTLY TOBELAY POINTTOPSAIL YARDBRACEBOWSPRITYARD AT LOWEREDPOSITIONSTANDING END OF SPREADERYARD BRACEDOUBLE BLOCKSSEIZEGLUESIMPLIFIEDEYESPLICES & LASHINGCOLLARSAME BOTH SIDESNOTE: BLOCKS ARE COMMON FORBOTH TOPSAIL & SPREADER YARDBRACES. USE INNER SHEAVE HOLE INBLOCK FOR TOPSAIL YARD BRACES.FIG. 9-14 RIGGING THE TOPSAIL YARD SHEETSAND CLEWLINES WITHOUT SAILSINGLE BLOCKSAME BOTH SIDESTOPSAIL YARDSHEETTIE CLEWLINE ANDSHEET TOGETHERCLEWLINESINGLE BLOCKSINGLE BLOCKSPREADER YARDAFT SIDE OFSAILFIG. 9-15 RIGGING WITH A TOPSAILLACE SAIL TO YARDPOSSIBLEBUNTLINEON FORWARDSIDE OF SAILCLEWLINELIFTS CAN DROPFAIRLEADLOCATEYARDIN UPPOSITIONFIG. 9-16 RIGGING THE SPREADER YARD PARRELHORSESEIZE AND SERVE ALL AROUNDEYESPLICES WITHLASHINGSAME BOTHSIDESGLUESIMPLIFIEDSHEET36

The halliard block (jeers) has an eyearound the masthead. The lower block isseized around the yard. The halliard leadsbelow to a jig tackle, secured to an eyeboltat the deck just forward and to portof the horse eyebolt. The fall belays tothe riding bitt rail (Figure 9-17).The port and starboard lifts go throughblocks seized around the masthead, thenfeed down to a tackle secured to an eyeboltin the deck near the bulwarks andabout in line with the first shroud. Thefall belays to shroud cleats (Figure 9-18).Rig sheets per instructions under TopsailYard above.The forward port and starboard bracesstart as a pendant, then a tackle to the endof the bowsprit, and belay to cleats at thebow. The blocks at the end of thebowsprit are double blocks, shared withthe topsail yard braces (Figure 9-19).The after braces start as an eyesplice on theyardarm with a pendant, down to a tacklefastened to an eyebolt just forward of theboom crutch on each side, and the tacklefall belays to a cleat fixed to the uprightarm of the boom crutch (Figure 9-20).FIG. 9-17 RIGGING THE SPREADER YARD JEERSFIG. 9-18 RIGGING THE SPREADER YARD LIFTSMASTHEAD“A”SINGLE BLOCKSSTOP CHOCKCOLLAREYESPLICESAME BOTH SIDESCOLLARDOUBLEBLOCKJEERSDOUBLEBLOCKLIFTDOUBLEBLOCKSPREADERYARDJIGTACKLESINGLE BLOCKSINGLEBLOCKJIG TACKLETO “A”EYEBOLT INDECK –PORT SIDEOF MASTSINGLE BLOCKEYEBOLT IN DECK NEAR BULWARKSFIG. 9-19 RIGGING THE FORWARDSPREADER YARD BRACESFIG. 9-20 RIGGING THE AFTERSPREADER YARD BRACESSPREADER YARDSAME BOTH SIDESSPREADER YARDFORWARD BRACESEE FIGURE 9-19PENDANTSINGLE BLOCKSAME BOTH SIDESPENDANTAFTER BRACESEE FIGURE 9-20BRACESAME BLOCKS SHOWN INFIGURE 9-13. USE OUTERSHEAVE HOLES IN BLOCKSFOR THIS BRACEBRACESINGLE BLOCKSINGLE BLOCKBOWSPRITEYEBOLT ON RAIL AT STERN37

4. CourseSince a course sail has been consideredoptional, no rigging lines need beinstalled on this model. If such a sail wereused, it would be a large square sail supportedoff the spreader yard. The sailwould be set by lowering the spreaderyard on deck. Sheets could be belayedback near the quarterdeck rail.5. Stern Flag StaffThis is a simple flag halliard belayed to acleat on the pole (Figure 9-21).FIG. 9-21 RIGGING THE FLAGSTAFF HALLIARDHALLIARDHOLE IN STAFFCLEATFinal TouchesWhen the model is rigged, recheck everyline. Be certain seizings are sound. Addanother dab of glue if they aren’t. Touchup shiny spots on standing rigging withblack paint or liquid shoe polish. Use atan stain or brown liquid shoe polish forrunning rigging, Check if any paintedwooden parts were fouled during therigging process and make repairs.Congratulations!Your Virginia Sloop is finished! Take amoment to revel in your accomplishment.You’ve persevered when the goingbecame rough, and your effort has producedresults. You’ve developed skills younever knew you had, increased yourvocabulary, and become a time traveler.We hope you’ve enjoyed your voyage andlook forward to sailing with you on yournext shipmodeling project.38

Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloopof 1768 by Clayton A. Feldman. Cedarburg,Wisconsin: Phoenix Publications,Inc., 1991.Text with plans describing the research,design, and construction of a 3/8" scalemodel of a Virginia Sloop. Basis for theModel Shipways kit.Early American Ships by John F. Millar.Williamsburg, VA: Colonies Press, 1986.Contains original drawing for the VirginiaSloop. Basis for Dr. Feldman’s research.Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmakingand Rigging by David Steel (1794). Largo,FL: Sweetman Reprint, 1993.Contains contemporary rigging sizes anddescriptions for ships and includes smallsloops. Basic text used by Dr. Feldman torig the model.The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchorby Darcy Lever (1819). Mineola, NY:Dover Reprint, 1998.Outstanding text for rigging old ships.Many detailed drawings.The Art of Rigging by Capt. GeorgeBiddlecombe. New York: Edward W.Sweetman Co., 1990 (reprint).Classic text for various early 18th centuryships with many tables on rigging andblock sizes. Some excellent tables comparethe tensile strength of chain andrope line.The Ashley Book of Knots by CliffordAshley. New York: Doubleday & Co.,1944.The best book ever written on the thousandsof knots used aboard old sailingships. Outstanding illustrations.BibliographyThe following model building publicationsare especially useful for beginning modelbuilders:How to Build First Rate Ship Modelsfrom Kits by Ben Lankford. Hollywood,FL: Model Shipways, Inc., 2000.A book designed especially for the kitbuilder. Covers all facets of buildingmodels from kits, and features ModelShipways kits as well as others. TheAppendix has a wealth of nauticalterms defined, especially useful forthe beginner.Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zuMondfeld. New York: Sterling Publications,1989.Modelbuilding techniques play a minorrole in this heavily illustrated superb referencebook. Covers practically everyaspect of ship construction, outfitting,and rigging from many historical periods.The Neophyte Shipmodeller’s Jackstayby George F. Campbell. Hollywood, FL:Model Shipways Inc., 1962.Written especially for the beginner buildingwooden ship models from kits. Wellillustrated and covers many periods.Planking the Built-Up Ship Model byJim Roberts. Hollywood, FL: Model ShipwaysInc., 1987.Topnotch publication on how to plank shipsfrom all periods. Designed to help the kit builderif the plans don’t show a planking scheme.The Ship Model Builders Assistant andThe Built-Up Ship Model by Charles G.Davis. New York: Dover Publications,reprinted 1986 and 1989 respectively.Two classics for the ship modelbuilder.Although dated, Davis’ modelbuildingtechniques are still excellent. More importantis the wealth of information on howships were built and outfitted. Manyexcellent drawings.Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes edited byMerritt Edson, Jr. and others. NauticalResearch Guild, 1979.Valuable collection of shop hints andarticles extracted from early issues of theNautical Research Journal. Many qualityillustrations, tables, and techniques.Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern byMilton Roth. Blue Ridge Summit: TabBooks, 1988.Entertaining text on ship modelbuildingtechniques. The chapters on gunsand ship’s boats are especially useful.Numerous detailed drawings.39