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The Frozen Playground of LangjökullThe Arctic Promised Land of GreenlandThe Islands of the FaroesThe Magic of the Northern Lightswww.icelandictimes.com

volcano cinema • café • geological exhibitionNEW!KEFLAVIK(airport)TOREYKJAVIK(city)CINEMAON FIREVolcano House features two documentarieschronicling two of Iceland´s most famousvolcanic eruptions of the last 40 yearsEyjafjallajökull 2010 EruptionThis powerful documentary made speciallyfor Volcano House was filmed and directedby the Emmy-nominated Icelandic filmmaker, Jóhann SigfússonThe Westman Island´s 1973 Eruptionbegan without warning on the night ofJanuary 23rd, 1973 where 400 homesperished under ash and lavaShowtimes:English: 10:00 to 21:00 Every hour on the hourGerman: 18:00 From June 1st – September 1stLOW COST BUSLINEkexpress.is ı info@kexpress.is ı tEL.823-0099Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik | (354) 555 1900 | volcanohouse.is

Einar Th. ThorsteinssonIceland’s Master Watchmaker ........................................................6The All-Icelandic Wool Shop ...........................................................8Iceland by Design .........................................................................10A Journey of Discovery Awaits ....................................................12Be a Highland Rover......................................................................12A Downtown Village ......................................................................13Spreading the Taste ......................................................................14The Brave get the Best .................................................................16Greenland Charms ........................................................................17The Joyful Wonderland .................................................................18The Treasure Chest .......................................................................18Leather Designer ..........................................................................20Segways and Bicycles in the City .................................................24A Wish Come True .........................................................................26From Hunters to Home ..................................................................27Living in the Lava ..........................................................................28The Warmth of Iceland ..................................................................29The Magic of the Northern Lights ...........................................30-31Duty Free the Icelandic Way ...................................................32-33Kefl avik International Airport ..................................................34-35Connected by Energy and History ................................................36Hot as the Sun ..............................................................................38Harbour Dining in Old Kefl avik ......................................................38Grindavík’s Harbour Café ..............................................................39Dine 10 min from the Airport ........................................................40Four Star Comfort in Kefl avík .......................................................41Visiting Iceland in winter allows you toexperience quite a few of life’s simplepleasures; a stroll through Reykjavik’s 101district in the brisk, refreshing air, enjoyingthe late morning sunshine and taking in allthat this tiny capital has to offer.One could start by savouring a leisurelybreakfast at Café Paris in Austurstræti,(Austurstræti 14) and then head over to theKraum design store, at Aðalstræti 10. Kraumhas gained quite a reputation in recent years forits select array of Icelandic designer products.Laugavegur is Reykjavik’s main shoppingstreet, and The Little Christmas Shop orJólabúðin at Laugavegur 8, is bound to puta smile on your face. Open year-round, witha remarkable variety of beautiful Christmasdecorations from across the globe, theYuletide spirit truly permeates the air. Onthe corner of Laugavegur and Frakkastígur,ContentsPhotographers’ Secrets ..........................................................43-44Prepare to be Amazed ............................................................45-46History Brought to Life ..................................................................46Hot from the Oven .........................................................................47Sweet Memories of Iceland ..........................................................47From Fire to Ice .......................................................................50-51Just Opened ..................................................................................52Treasure at the World ...................................................................53Singing in the Silence ...................................................................53The Northern Playground ........................................................54-55Ambassador to the Whales ...........................................................56The North Eats Thai ......................................................................56Básar Guesthouse in Grímsey .......................................................58Where Fitness Folk Eat .................................................................59A Guesthouse in the Country ........................................................59Trendy Seyðisfjörður .....................................................................60Open for dreams ...........................................................................61A Vision of the Future Becomes Reality ..................................62-63Entranced by the East .............................................................64-65Take time for the Extraordinary ....................................................66The Mystery of Randulff’s Sea House ...........................................67Eating well in Höfn ........................................................................68The Vast Vatnajökull .....................................................................69Sail a Fantasy World .....................................................................70At the Eastern Crossroads ............................................................71On Top of the World ................................................................ 72-73visitors to The Treasure Chest or Gullkistan,(Frakkastígur 10), are warmly welcomedby its owner, Dóra, one of Iceland’s finestgoldsmiths, who specialises in fine gold andsilver filigree jewellery.If Iceland’s winter weather proves a bit toochilly, make sure you check out the HandknittingAssociation or Handprjónasambandið(Skólavörðustígur 19) for woollen goodscreated by some of the most talented knittersfrom around Iceland.After hitting the town, it’s time to relax inone of Reykjavik’s many indoor or outdoorheated swimming pools and hot tubs. Theoldest is ‘Sundhöll’, located at Barónstígur45, just outside the city centre. To completea perfect day, dine late at Þrír FrakkarRestaurant, (Baldursgata 14), for all thatweird, wonderful, yet delicious Icelandic foodthat you have heard so much about.Hospitality is what we do best ................................................ 74-75Journeying Iceland’s South Coast ................................................79No Ash – Just Beautiful Camping .................................................80Refreshing Vík...............................................................................80The Surround-Sounds of Silence ..................................................81Glaciers, Black Sand Beaches & Puffi ns .................................82-83The Old Cowhouse Restaurant ....................................................84Ásólfsskáli Farm Holidays ............................................................84An Idyllic Stay ...............................................................................85Raised on Chocolate .....................................................................85A Taste of Iceland’s Wild & Sweet .................................................86Reykjavik’s Frozen Playground ...............................................88-89Greenland – the Arctic’s Promised Land ................................90-91Touching Greenland ......................................................................92That Island Feeling .................................................................94-95The following pages are found only in the issue for sale:The Highlands ..................................................................... 100-103Birds of Southern Iceland ................................................... 104-105Men Who Made Iceland: Matthías Jochumsson .........................106Men Who Made Iceland: Halldór Laxness ..................................107Men Who Made Iceland: Skúli Magnússon .................................108Men Who Made Iceland: Jónas Hallgrímsson .............................109A Brag Book For Iceland ......................................................110-114CreditsIcelandic languageHow to make use of QR codesPUBLISHERICELANDIC TIMESEDITOR & GENERAL MANAGEREinar Th. Thorsteinssoneinar@icelandictimes.comVIDEO & TV DEPARTMENTEinar Th. ThorsteinssonGabriel RutenbergLAYOUT & DESIGNIcelandic Times mediaLayout TeamSALES AND MARKETINGAnna Margrét Bjarnadóttiranna@icelandictimes.comDelphine Brioisdelphine@icelandictimes.comPROOFREADERAndrew Scott FortuneElaine Marie ValgarðssonFRONT COVER PHOTOBrynjar ÁgústssonARTICLES WRITTEN BYAndrew Scott FortuneAnna Margarét BjarnadóttirDagmar TrodlerElaine Marie ValgarðssonJóhann Óli HilmarssonJúlíana BjörnsdóttirNanna Hlín HalldórsdóttirSigrún PétursdóttirStefán Helgi ValssonVignir Andri GuðmundssonIcelandic is one of the European rootlanguages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except inforeign words. However, it still containssome letters not found in most otherlanguages. This basic list provides ageneral idea of their sounds, usingfamiliar words rather than phonetics.CharacteráæðþPronunciationLike ‘ow’ in ‘cow’Like the personal pronoun ‘I’Like ‘th’ in ‘that’Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily refl ect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though thecontents of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness thereof.Copyright © November 2013 Icelandic Times media ehf. All rights reserved Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Co.4www.icelandictimes.comUse your QR code reader application on your smartphone oriPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can bedownloaded free for all makes of smartphonesIcelandic TimesSíðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík+354 578 5800info@icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Experience Icelandwith Vodafone!Get the best value by purchasingVodafone‘s prepaid mobile starter kitwith voice and data. Full list of resellersat vodafone.is/enEnjoy your stay!Vodafone frelsiPrepaid Starter KitPrice:2.000 kr.MicroSIMIceland’s Master WatchmakerJS Watches are masters of timeHow many parts are there in a topnotchtime piece? It happens to bea well-kept secret, unless you fi nd a masterwatchmaker who allows you to observe theintricacies of his meticulous work.One such master, Gilbert O. Guðjónssonand his son Sigurður Gilbertsson, alongwith their partners Julíus Heiðarsson andGrimkell Sigurðsson, pioneered what maybe the world’s smallest watch manufacturerin 2005. As typical Icelanders, they doeverything themselves—from design toproduction, and even the photography inkeeping with their motto, ‘no secrets, nofakes’. It is the extraordinary quality, theuse of materials such as sapphire crystal and6surgical steel from Germany and the limitedproduction of each design that makes thedifference, attracting collectors and celebritiesfrom all over the world. The latest fan ofMaster Gilbert’s watches is Tom Cruise, whosent a personal note of satisfaction—just onemore affirmation among many other satisfiedcustomers, including Viggo Mortensen andthe Dalai Lama.Watches for every occasionThe Icelandic Search and Rescue Team,who daily put their lives at risk, have no timewww.icelandictimes.comfor anything less than the best. They areoffi cially equipped with the ‘Síf’, a specialedition of water resistant watches.Each watch has its own fascinating story.The impressive Frisland Goð engravedwatch celebrates Viking power by fusingtraditional design with volcanic materials.The Frisland 1941 Pilot watch was createdin 2011, in honour of Reykjavik domesticairport’s 70 year anniversary.When a Dutch customer could wait nolonger for the watch he had ordered, MasterGilbert invited him to see it in its final stagesof completion. The Dutchman found himselfone of those few who know the secrets of theinner workings of his timepiece.You can follow in his footsteps. Just giveGilbert a call and step into the secrecy of hissmall watch-making cabinet, where screws,parts and tools are kept in neat boxes and thewatchmaker’s magnifying glass oversees theticking of his precious movements.JS Watch co.Laugavegur 62 • 101 Reykjavik+354 551 4100info@jswatch.comwww.jswatch.com–DTKeep connected in Iceland with VodafoneIf you want to stay fully connected while travelling in Iceland and keep your phone bill on atight leash at the same time, the easiest option is to get a Vodafone prepaid SIM card. Withour prepaid service you get the best rates for local calls, calls abroad and data usage – andyou’ll never spend more than you want on calls and data.The easiest option is to purchase a starter pack, which is offered at the 10-11 shop in the arrivalhall at Keflavík International Airport and the Elko stores at the airport. If you’re already here youcan get your starter kit at the the Vodafone stores in Reykjavík (Kringlan Mall and Skútuvogur 2),Kópavogur (Smáralind Mall) or Akureyri (Glerártorg Mall). Furthermore, Vodafone has partnersand resellers all over Iceland, including the 10-11 convenience stores, N1 petrol stations andvarious tourist boutiques. The starter pack includes a SIM-card and credit for both calls and data.Vodafone also offers a Prepaid Mobile Internet Starter kit for Data only, which is ideal for thosetravelling with a tablet computer or 3G mobile internet equipment. The kit includes a regular SIM/Micro SIM and a 3 GB data credit which allows you to stay connected to our extensive mobilenetwork throughout the country.

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013The All-Icelandic Wool ShopThe Icelandic Handknitting assn. sells Icelandic wool and productsSheep came to Iceland with the Vikingsettlers and quickly proved their value,not only for their meat but also their wool andskins. Living conditions were very basic andespecially tough in the cold and dark wintermonths. Sheep helped keep the settlers alive.These Icelandic sheep have two types offleece—an outer, weather and water repellentlayer and a soft, warm fleece close to theskin. Combined, they have provided warmclothing for farmers and seamen, adults,children and babies for centuries. Makingsweaters became a tradition in farmhouses,cottages and houses around the country.From home to marketThe Handknitting Association of Icelandwas founded in 1977 to help knittersto get their handiwork marketed. Agroup of women formed the association,establishing standards and guidelines forthe production that was—and still is, animportant supplement to many familyincomes. Shortly thereafter, they opened ashop to sell their members’ woollen goodsat Skólavörðustígur 19, the main shoppingstreet that descends from Hallgrímskirkja,the cathedral overlooking the city.8Find the real thingIn today’s globalised society, it is increasinglydifficult to be sure you are getting a genuinearticle, rather than one made thousandsof miles away, with wool without thecharacteristics that has made Icelandic woolso special for hundreds of years.The Handknitting Assn.’s shop only stocksgenuine Icelandic wool and clothing made byprofessional Icelandic knitters, so you can becertain you are getting the true, well-madeproduct. Look for the logo to be sure.Their motto from the outset has been, ‘Buydirectly from the people who make them’.Walking into the shop, one cannot help butbe amazed at the skill and productivity ofthese ladies—and some men, too, from allwalks of life, living in all parts of the country.Every item has that sense of individualuniqueness that only handmade items carry.Traditional and modern stylesThe world of knitting has changeddramatically since the association began. Afew decades ago, the designs took the form ofthe ‘lopapeysa’ or sweater, with its distinctivescalloped pattern, which has become sopopular worldwide, but numerous youngwww.icelandictimes.comIcelandic designers have also turned theirattention to wool as a medium of choicefor their fashion designs, resulting in newproducts, styles and colours.Today, there is a wide range of sweaters,gloves, hats, scarves, socks, bags and manyother items in sizes to suit everyone from aViking warrior (or farmer) to a pretty fashionmodel to a newborn baby.The store is a centre, not only for selling thefi nished products, but also for supplying thewool and all the accessories required to makewoollen items. If knitting is your hobby, thereis a world of warm designs just waiting for you.Icelandic wool wears very well and it isnot uncommon for people to wear sweatersmany years and for them to still look fresh.Visitors can have their purchases shipped tothem and they can also order from the website.That includes the patterns, wool, needles andaccessories, not just the clothing.–aSfHandprjónasamband ÍslandsSkólavörðustígur 19 • 101 Reykjavík+354 552 1890handknit@handknit.iswww.handknit.isLASIKRESHAPING OF THE CORNEA WITH A LASERThe world is reflected in our eyes.Almost 80% of our perceptions comethrough our eyes and it is a privilegeto be able to experience them withoutvisual aids.A LASIK operation takes only tenminutes and makes it possible to getrid of spectacles and contact lenses.During this operation an ultra-preciselaser reshapes the surface of thecornea making it possible for thelight to focus on the retina, makingthe image sharper. This illustrateshow important the development ofthe computer technique was to thehistory of laser refractive surgery- a procedure shaving a fraction ofa millimeter can actually make itpossible to stop wearing glasses orcontact lenses. To perceive the worldthrough the eyes without lookingthrough glass, plastic or silicone.If you wish to be evaluated for laserrefractive surgery we can checkwhether you are a candidate. If youare, we can make this happen.EYELILASER REFRACTIVEHTSURGERYJohannes Kristinsson MD PhDCornea and External DiseasesRefractive SurgeryGlæsibær - Alfheimar 74 • 104 Reykjavik • +354 414 7000 • ritari@augljos.is • www.augljos.is

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013the day, launch out into the vast, uninhabitedhinterlands at the end of the Sprengisandur trail.This unforgettable experience concludes with ahearty BBQ feast in Reykjavik.A Journey of Discovery AwaitsIsafold Travel’s Highland TreasuresIceland’s rich winter landscape is like atreasure chest, full of exciting gems justwaiting to be discovered. With 16 yearsexperience of making travellers’ dreamscome true, Isafold Travel can help you carveout a tailor-made tour with your specialdesires in mind or suggest one of its ownscheduled tours for small groups.Be a Highland RoverISaK 4x4 Land Rovers take on the worst terrainIf you have a passion for independenttravel, then Iceland, with its reputationas a nation of rugged individualists, is yourdestination of choice.Winter driving in Iceland can be tricky,as road and weather conditions may not becomparable to what you are used to at home.Many gravel roads are off limits for smallervehicles, and you wouldn’t want your travelplans to be thwarted by unforeseen, butentirely avoidable circumstances.12Highland Challenge and Comfort TourThis 3 night/4 day self-drive package usingspecially modified ISAK 4x4 Land Rovers, allowsyou to experience the full extent of Iceland’smystical interiors, as well as the more welltroddenpaths to Thingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir.Spend 3 cosy nights in a welcoming hotel at theedge of the Icelandic highlands and, duringThe specialists at ISAK 4x4 Rental knowwhat Icelandic roads require and theyalso understand the thrill of exploringthe uninhabited Icelandic Highlands.Their professionally-modified ISAK LandRover Defenders for self-drive will getyou safely over rough terrain any time ofthe year. Equipped with 38-inch tyres, aircompressors and communication devicessuch as VHF radio and GPS, Iceland’swinter landscape will be all yours.A Winter Photo SafariWhether your dream is to capture the elusiveNorthern Lights or to learn how to get the mostfrom your camera in Iceland’s mesmerizingwinter light, Isafold’s Winter Photo Tour is foryou. Professional Icelandic photographer HaukurSnorrasson will accompany you along the southcoast to Jökulsárlón, leading the way to all thebest spots, keeping in mind the light levelsthroughout the day. You will spend the night atHaukur’s remote guesthouse, get a taste of someauthentic Icelandic cuisine, and come away withmany envy-inducing photographic jewels readyfor posting to your favourite social websites.–DTIsafold travelSmidshofdi 21 • 110 Reykjavik+354 544 8866info@isafoldtravel.iswww.isafoldtravel.isIsak 4x4 Rental’s sister company, IsafoldTravel can help you make the most ofyour time in Iceland. Their popular SuperDefender self-drive tours can be arrangedwith or without a guide, for 2 days orlonger. Self-drive packages include a detaileditinerary, a modified Land Rover Defenderon 38-inch tyres, and accommodationduring multi-day tours.Check out their new website andbooking service and follow your dream.–DTIsak 4x4 RentalSmidshofdi 21 • 110 Reykjavik+354 544 8860info@isak.iswww.isak.isA Downtown VillageReykjavik Hostel Village offers Budget Travellers the BestIn the centre of Reykjavik, surroundedby the main shopping street, a majorart gallery, a park, and a short distancefrom the local and up-country bus stations,Hótel Flóki has been transformed into asmall village of pleasant houses for budgetconsciousvisitors, families, groups andtravellers who are touring the country.Each of its 5 houses has a suburbanfeel to it, with its own garden—greatfor sunbathing and barbecues. Visitorsfeel almost as if they are living in anIcelander’s house—except for the friendly,multinational clientele, many of whom arereturning to explore more of the country.Your Reykjavik baseThe Village makes an ideal spot to basefrom. It’s within easy reach of every kindof restaurant, café and eating place—notto mention shops of all types, too. Thelocal bus, or stræto, passes right in front ofthe main building and a large bus stationis only a short walk. When coming fromthe airport, the transit buses will drop youoff right at the door. When planning anup-country trip or tour, both the Reykjavikairport and the BSÍ bus station are close by.The Reykjavik Hostel Village can supplyrental cars and book tours for you and willalso take care of luggage, bikes, etc., whileyou head out on a trip and you can pick themup on your return. So the more adventurouscan try different areas to explore withouthaving to lug everything with them.Enjoy the Reykjavik SceneIn recent years, Iceland has become famousworld-wide for its dynamic music andcultural scene like Iceland Airwaves, forexample. Many want to come to enjoy theconcerts but fi nd hotel costs somewhat offputting.The conversion of Hótel Flóki to aHostel Village means that nobody should feelexcluded as there is now a reasonably-pricedoption in a very good location, with all theconcert locations in easy reach.Conference accommodationIncreasingly, Reykjavik has also been thecentre for conferences, so it’s valuable toknow there’s a clean and comfortable roomin a nice house within easy reach of the majorconference centres.Laugavegur, the main shopping street, is ahub of restaurants and eateries of all kinds,of art and cultural shops, clothing shopsand places of interest. It leads to the centreof town and the nightclub scene. Fridayand Saturdays, things get started late, sothere’s plenty of time to eat before enjoyingevents that go on right through the weekendnights. When you want to get home, theHostel Village is right there.Book ahead for the bestIt’s wise to book in advance to secure yourplace to enjoy Iceland.–aSfReykjavik Hostel VillageFlókagata 1 • 105 Reykjavik+354 552 1155info@hostelvillage.iswww.hostelvillage.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 13

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Spreading the TasteYou Can Enjoy authentic Thai food In Reykjavík or akureyriThe discovery of the wonderful flavours ingenuine Thai food only reached Icelandin 2001 when, down by the Old Harbour ina cosy, small white building, Krua Thai firststarted the taste revolution. For hundreds ofyears, Icelanders had grown accustomed to arather bland diet, so the introduction of Thaicuisine had a major impact.Icelanders have a reputation forpioneering and they plunged into thisnew taste sensation with gusto. A secondrestaurant opened in Bæjarlind, near theSmáralind shopping centre, also providinghome deliveries. Take away also gained greatpopularity and now you can fi nd the samedelicious menu in Krua Siam in Akureyri,close to the harbour. With prices set so thata whole family can eat for less than a singleperson would pay in fancy restaurant, youcan understand its popularity.Krua Thai’s cuisine is unique as it blendsauthentic Thai cooking, with all its specialspices and ingredients imported directly fromThailand, with Icelandic meats and vegetables.As the food is prepared to order, it reachesyou with all the fl avour as fresh as possible.It has proven a popular spot for visiting Thaitourists for good reason. The Thai-Icelandicblend is truly a delicious experience and onethat any Thai food aficionado should savourwhile here.–aSfA sourceof healthONLY*550 isk.ADULTS130 isk.CHILDRENReykjavik's Thermal Pools*Admission January 2013. Price is subject to changeKrua ThaiTryggvagötu 14 • 101 Reykjavík+354 561 0039kruathai@kruathai.iswww.kruathai.isThermalswimmingpoolsHot tubsandjacuzziSaunas,steambathsandshowersForhealth andwell-beingSevenlocationsOpen earlyuntil lateThermal pools and baths in Reykjavik are a source of health, relaxation and pureness.All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.itr.is

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013The Brave get the BestThe Sea Baron’s fish Meals attract visitors from all over the worldIceland has many ‘different’ foods which havetheir roots in seafaring history. The Vikingscame up with many novel ways of preservingtheir foods and their traditions continue to thisday. Some of these foods sound unappealing,to say the least, and it takes the adventuroussoul to step out and try them. Iceland is for theadventurous and they reap the benefits of thebrave. The timid stick to burgers!A True FishermanA former fisherman and Coast Guard chef,Kjartan Halldórsson, also known as the Sea Baron,is the master of unusual fi sh dishes. His lobster16soup, for example, has gained fame around theworld, earning it the title of ‘the world’s greatestlobster soup’. While he doesn’t reveal the secretsof his recipe, that doesn’t stop his restaurant frombeing filled every day with aficionados.He entered the restaurant business bychance. One day, when standing by his boxesof fish, some foreign visitors asked if he couldprepare some fish for them. Spotting anopportunity, he ran to the nearest hardwarestore to buy a grill—and was in business!His visitors were invited to dine in his shopin this improbable restaurant. Word quicklyspread and soon he was shifting his boxesout of the way to make room fortables and chairs. He took theunusual and created deliciousmeals that no-one else had thoughtof trying. He took old recipes,some of which sounded revolting,and from them, made mealsthat have established his reputationaround the world. Kjartan’srestaurant is popular with thefishermen who sailed for manyyears from Reykjavik. It is filledwith memorabilia donated by old sea captainsand their families, that fill it with a characterall its own. Handmade model sailing boats,pictures of ships of the past and stuffed birdsfi ll the second floor’s walls, where groups ofup to 35 can celebrate together and where thefishermen used to sleep when coming to land.Dining as a Seafaring ExperienceEating at the polished tables, sitting on cushionedfish barrels, surrounded by paraphernalia of thesea, is an experience that will leave you withboth good memories, a satisfied appetite—andperhaps, a rather shocked mind that you wouldactually have eaten fermented fish and that ittasted so, so good.Smoked in SucculenceA true pioneer, Kjartan is always comingup new ideas. Besides the smoked eel,Kjartan has taken to smoking mackerel andthe special grey halibut, the delicious flatfi sh with both eyes on top. His techniqueimbibes the fish with a delicious flavour thathas to be tasted to be believed.–aSfSægreifinnGeirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík+354 553 1500info@saegreifinn.iswww.saegreifinn.isGreenland CharmsMystic Gifts from the WildIn the middle of busy Laugavegur, in theheart of Reykjavik, you’ll find a doorto another world. The Ravens’ shop dooris always open; the atmospheric soundscoming from within invite passers-by tocome closer, to bury their hands in the silkyreindeer skins at the entrance and to get intouch with Greenland. Ravens is not onlya specialist shop for jackets and waistcoatsmade from quality arctic fur, it is probablythe only place in Iceland where you canpurchase sealskin that can be used for yourown designs and also one of the very fewplaces to fi nd horsehide leather.Sealskin Design to Keep You WarmTuneful music from Greenland takes you onits wings while you explore the well laid-outshop with its range of hats, incredibly softgloves, designer bags and elegant sneakers.For hundreds of years, sealskin clothinghas helped the Inuit to survive Greenland’sarctic cold, and it continues to do so today.Women in Greenland still wear sealskintrousers, in extraordinary contrast to thedelicate bead necklaces you see displayed inthe glass display cabinets. These colourfulnecklaces are traditional women’s jewellery,and can be used to embellish both a décolletéas well as worn over warm clothes.Nature’s MasterpiecesRavens’ hand-crafted items originatefrom Kulusuk, a small island off the EastGreenland coast where a group of nativeartists, solely men, transform naturalmaterials into unique masterpieces–traditional items like carved amulets,rings and backscratchers. The selection ofaesthetically carved knives comes with highquality blades from the famous Danishknife maker Poul Strande. Chefs, cooksand knife afi cionados will surely not leavethe store empty handed once they seethe traditional women’s knife known asan ‘ulo’, which can be used for anythingfrom cooking to skinning—a gem in everyhunter’s collection!Guardian SpiritsThe knives match perfectly with the carvedtupilaks made from horn. No doubt, thegrimaces of these traditional shamanicghosts will provide inviolable powersfor those who decide to give them a newhome. Tupilaks are Greenland’s charms andare well known among art collectors.Spirit CharmsAs the Icelandic twilight casts its spell onLaugavegur, the last rays of light turn amulets,hanging from a reindeer antler, golden—claws and teeth from Greenland’s wildanimals, carefully polished and threaded ontothin leather cords. A guillemot and a hugeblack raven, both stuffed, sit silently nearbykeeping watch over the shop. Greenland’swild spirit is inherent in its fauna and willcharm you at Ravens.–DTRaven ArtLaugavegur 15 • 101 Reykjavík+354 551 1080ravens@ravens.iswww.ravens.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 17

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013The Joyful WonderlandThe little Christmas shop that is festive all year roundAnne Helen, owner of ‘The LittleChristmas Shop’ on Laugavegur,Reykjavik’s main shopping street, is whatyou might call a ‘one woman wonder’. Whenshe lost her job in tourism ten years ago, shedecided it was time for a change and turnedto doing what she does better than most ofus; making the world a prettier place, oneChristmas ball at a time.In the Land of Eternal ChristmasAnne Helen, a genuine aesthete, says she hasalways had somewhat of a Christmas obsessionand an intense passion for things of beauty. Shenever goes for anything average but hunts forthings of quality that truly stand out. Thoughshe imports merchandise from all over Europe,her ambition is to specialise in Icelandichandiwork and ornaments. She already hasan extensive range, most made exclusively forher by a number of craftsmen, each having adistinctive approach and working in materialssuch as wool, glass and clay. In addition tocustomary Christmas ornaments, she includeslocal folklore figures, like the thirteen YuleLads and the Christmas Cat.Anne Helen loves is to tell customersabout Icelandic Christmas traditions.Visitors often stop by simply because they’veheard of her hospitality and the shop’sfriendly atmosphere. They rarely leave emptyhanded. After all, placing an Icelandic YuleLad on your Christmas tree every year is agreat way to remember your visit to Iceland.–HÞLitla JólabúðinLaugarvegi 8 • Reykjavík+354 552 2412nonenoneNorthern Lights Mystery*AH33Price5.400 ISK20:00-01:00The Treasure Chesta Master Craftsman Creates Works of art in Precious MetalsDóra Guðbjört Jónsdóttir is oneof Iceland’s finest and mostproductive goldsmiths using, with greatunderstanding, the ways of Icelandicmasters before her time.Between 1949-53, Dóra started learningthe trade in her father’s workshop, gainingher Master’s degree in 1953. Additionally, shestudied at Tärna folk high school in Sweden,Konstfackskolan in Stockholm around 1950,graduating with honours, and at VereinigteGoldschmiede-, Kunst- und Werkschule inPforzheim, Germany in 1954.18Dóra took over her father’s workshop in1970 and relocated it, opening her companycalled Gullkistan, on Frakkastígur street inReykjavik. Her speciality is national costumejewellery, or filigree, a delicate kind of jewellerymetalwork, usually of gold and silver. Heroutstanding skills can be seen in her superbwork, honouring Icelandic tradition. Dóralikes to work with very old jewellery templates,often well over 100 years old.She has always actively participatedin exhibitions, both nationally andinternationally, and served as chairpersonwww.icelandictimes.comof the FIG (The Icelandic Goldsmiths’Association) from 1974-75, being the firstNordic woman to take that position.A true artist, she has always tried to putnational crafts in a new context and associateher designs with modern trends which combinethe artist’s desire to experiment with a thoroughknowledge of templates and patterns of the past.–SPGullkistanFrakkastíg 10 • 101 Reykjavík+354 551 3160gullkistan@vortex.iswww.thjodbuningasilfur.isSouth Coast Waterfalls & Glacier HikeFree Wi-FiONBOARDAH34#IcelandExcursions#GrayLineIcelandPrice20.900 ISKGolden Circle ClassicAH12Price9.500 ISK08:30-19:3008:30-17:30For more information visit our sales office at Lækjartorg square in Reykjavíkcity centre. www.grayline.is www.grayline.is (+354) 540 1313*Second tour free of charge if no Northern Lights appear during your trip.

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013WHALEWATCHINGEducational and interactive!DAILY TOURSALL YEAR!Puffin ExpressSea AnglingSpecial Tours & Life of Whales | Reykjavik | +354 560 8800 | www.specialtours.is | www.lifeofwhales.isLeather DesignerLadies handbags, earrings and necklacesQuality Icelandic design and leatherhandcraft is much sought after. “Myfi rst leather design was a handbag paintedwith colourful artwork and patterns,”says Guðrún Stefánsdóttir, a successfulindependent architect who found a secondcareer in creative leather designs. Guðrúndesigns leather handbags and now she’sadded necklaces and earrings to her ArkArt accessory collection. “I wanted touse the leather cut-offs for somethinguseful, when I came up with the idea touse them to make jewellery—earrings andnecklaces.”Guðrún’s Ark Art leather jewellery isrecognisable by her use of thin leatherrings or squares and use of colours. It isa sophisticated yet simple design, skilfullyusing geometric shapes and colours.Guðrún graduated from the RoyalSchool of Architecture in Denmark in1986. After working at an architect’soffi ce, she started her own business.“I’ve worked on some amazing projects,ranging from large buildings to singlefamily homes. My favourite projects arethose where I design everything from A-Zfor private homes. Those projects wouldtypically involve the house and interiordesign, the landscaping around the houseand the furniture inside.”The Ark Art collection is available atthe National Art Gallery, Sædís jewelleryshop at Reykjavik’s Old Harbour,Snorrastofa in Reykholt and directly fromGuðrún.More information can be found onFacebook: Ark.art leather design.–NNHISSN 2298-318X€4ISSN 2298-3171L´Islande, Terre des ExtrêmesChevaux et BaleinesSagas et Vikingswww.icelandictimes.com€4Von Poeten, Walen und PferdenVon stillen Bergen und regionaler KücheIsland - mit allen Sinnen erleben!www.icelandictimes.comDeutsche AusgabeNow also availablein French and GermanThe Icelandic Times is on sale in allgood bookshops in Iceland20www.icelandictimes.comArkartDragháls 10 • 110 Reykjavík+354 551 5533arkgunna@simnet.iswww.arkart.is

More Iceland for less moneyBlue Lagoon SchedulePickup at hotel in Reykjavik upon request09:00 / 10:30 / 12:30 / 14:45 / 16:45Blue Lagoon to Reykjavikk12:30 / 14:00* / 16:00 / 18:00 / 20:30 * Via Keflavik AirportBlue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport14:00 / 21:00**** From 15. June – 15. Sept.Please book in advance.Be ready in front of your hotel.Pickup can take up to 30 min.The South Coast - Skógafoss - VíkGrand Golden CircleGolden Circle AfternoonOur tour takes us along the south shore and on to thecharming village of Vík. Highlights on this tour: WaterfallsSkógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. The basalt columns atsandy beach of Reynis- fjara and the glacier Sólheimajökull,where you can touch the ice. We drive along thevolcano Eyjafjallajökull, last eruption in 2010.Pick up time: Mon/Wed/Fri at 08:00Duration: 10 hoursProfessional English guidanceHighlights visited: The farming districts in the south,Faxi waterfall and the spectacular Geysir. The waterfallGullfoss, the national park Thingvellir, including the Riftvalley and the Rock of law which was the site of the firstViking parliament.Time for lunch at Geysir (not incl. in price).Pick up time: Daily at 08:00Duration: 8 hoursProfessional English guidancePlease notice: You can join The Blue Lagoon evening tour after arrival.Highlights visited: The national park Thingvellir,the waterfall Gullfoss, the spectacular Geysir.Pick up time: Daily at 12:30Duration: 5-6 hoursProfessional English guidanceICELAND PHOTO TOURSIceland photo tours is operated by Look North TravelKarfavogur 22, 104 ReykjavikTel +354 863 5540 and +354 863 0300info@phototours.is — www.phototours.isExplore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of IcelandTel: +354 511 2600 E-mail: bustravel@bustravel.is bustravel.is

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Visit hasso.isfor great priceson car rentalSegways and Bicycles in the CityIceland’s premier bicycle and Segway tour companyReykjavik Bike Tours specialises in citytours by bicycle and day tours from thecapital. Started in 2009, the company wasthe fi rst to specialise in bicycle tours in thecountry. A city tour and private tours are onoffer all year but in summer the companyruns six scheduled tours.Insider’s perspective“The bicycle takes us quickly, comfortablyand safely between points of interest,” saysStefan, the owner of Reykjavik Bike Tours.“The added value we give our guests, apartfrom the ride itself, of course, is the localperspective. We like telling the stories thatbring a seemingly uninteresting buildingor a place to life. I like to describe ourtours as ‘infotainment’ because we presenthistory and facts as accurately as we canbut at the same time we never forget that24most of our guests are on a holiday andlike to be entertained.”Regular complaints“We regularly get complaints,” Stefansays, with a smile. “People who join ourtours on their third or fourth day in thecity tell us with regret they’d wishedthey’d done the tour sooner because thecommentary unlocks countless city secretsknown only to the locals. Of course, wetake this as a compliment. From the startwe’ve been getting excellent reviews. Wehumbly thank our guests who have spentsome of their valuable time to tell othertravellers how much they enjoyed theirexperience with us. We certainly do nottake positive reviews for granted but theycertainly encourage us to maintain ourgood reputation every day.”www.icelandictimes.comBiggest fleet of bicyclesReykjavik Bike Tours rents bicycles as well.“We’ve got city bikes, mountain bikes, roadbikes and touring bikes as well as tandems andbicycles with trailers for children. We also have acouple of electric bikes for those who like a bit ofassistance when going up the hill or against thewind. Basically we try to cater to different cyclistsand provide the best service we possibly can.”Segways in the cityThe fun and popular Segway self-balancingpersonal transporters came to Reykjavik in2013. “Everyone enjoys riding the Segway,”Stefan says convincingly. “The fun startsas soon as people step onto the Segway.The sense of self-accomplishment and alsolearning about the city at the same time isthe best possible combination.”–SHVReykjavik Bike ToursÆgisgarður 7 • 101 Reykjavík+354 694 8956bike@icelandbike.comwww.icelandbike.comNjarðarbraut 11, 260 Reykjanesbær and Smiðjuvegur 34, rauð gata, 200 Kópavogur Phone (+354) 555 3330, hasso@hasso.is, www.hasso.is

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013A Wish Come TrueYour Wishlist at ÓskalistFor the mother and daughter who runGallery Óskalist, creating personal artfrom their immediate surroundings is a wishcome true. Their delightfully whimsicalpainted rock houses are a result of themscouring nearby beaches for uniquely shapedSnorri TravelBus RentalTour Operatorwww.snorritravel.is26rocks, which they transform into one-of-akinddecorative statuettes.Valdís Ósk, co-founder of Óskalist, saysthat they almost always manage to see someform in the rocks they come across and takegreat joy in working the original natural shapeinto the final piece. “We usually let the shapeitself defi ne how we work on each piece. Wedon’t even mind if the stones are a bit odd oruneven, just as long as they stand on their own.That way each piece has its own character andwe can safely say that no two pieces are evenremotely alike,” says Valdís Ósk.Valdís Ósk and daughter Karen Ósk residein Kjalarnes, overlooking the bay towardReykjavik. They always wished to intertwinetheir love for their home and their artistictalents. Valdís jokingly explains that the nameof the company reflects that combination.‘Ósk’ literally means ‘wish’ and ‘list’ means ‘art’in Icelandic—while both mother and daughtereven have ‘wish’ as their middle name.Their gallery in Grundarhverfi inKjalarnes is a perfect stop, just off the mainroad to the north of Reykjavik.Valdís Ósk and Karen Ósk welcomevisitors into their gallery, and are more thanhappy to show them around the area. It’sbest to call ahead. They also only accept cashfor purchases.–VaGÓskalist GalleryThe White KnightBúagrund 13 • 116 Kjalarnes+354 566 6035frontlist@front.iswww.front.is/listH R - A D . F, , Háholti 13 • 270 Mosfellsbær • Tel. (+354) 5666 222 • hvitiriddarinn@hvitiriddarinn.is • www.hvitiriddarinn.isTravel inTouchwww.trawire.comFrom Hunters to HomePalli now makes knives and forks for the kitchen and dining roomLong known for his beautifully craftedhunting knives of various sizes, eachwith its own handmade handle, Palli is nowcreating works of art for the kitchen—andsoon for the dining room—that any cook orhostess will be proud to own.Made with rare materialsOrnately engraved knives and forks—including kitchen and carving knives arenow receiving Palli’s unique craftsmanship.What makes his knives special is that hediligently sources his materials, researchesthe best methods for making long-lastinghandles that are comfortable and safe to use—often from rare materials sourced from allover the world. Frequently, he blends differentmaterials such as reindeer antler, goat horn,a hippo’s tooth or a horse’s hoof with woodsuch as ebony, elm or even fossilized woodthat has been carefully dried over a period ofyears to harden it for a handle.Created for ConnoisseursAs a result of his passion for excellence andenthusiasm for creating a work of art froma tempered steel blade and these differenthandles, his knives are now to be found inover 85 countries, in use by hunters whoappreciate these qualities.When he creates a special knife, there isoften a lot of bidding for it on the internet,such is the demand for them.Now for cooks and dinersRecently, Palli worked with one of the bestDamascus steel blade makers to bring theircrafts fi rst to the kitchen and soon, also tothe dining room.With typical care and research, he isproducing a range of, initially, 4 kitchenknives, to be followed by a full diningcutlery set, using his 66 year-old dentist drillthat he brought out of retirement for carvingthe handles and creating both individualpieces and sets that will be a conversationpiece in dining rooms around the world.Inspired by a waterfallYou can find Palli in his studio inMosfellsbær, right beside the Álafosswaterfall and the famous mill of the samename, just a 15 minute drive from the centreof Reykjavik. He is open from 11:30 am to11 pm. His knives can also be found at theBrynja hardware store at Laugavegur 29,on the main shopping street in downtownReykjavik or ordered online.Custom made for years of useIf you have specifi c materials you wouldlike your hunting, kitchen or carvingknife to be made from—or the diningcutlery, you can always let him know.Many knives are made to order and everyone is individual and unique.–aSfPalli the Knife MakerÁlafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ+354 899 6903palli@knifemaker.iswww.knifemaker.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 27

Open 18.00–22.00.TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Image by © Þorsteinn Gunnar KristjánssonLiving in the LavaThe town where they live with Hidden People and boiling poolsVisitors to Iceland expect somethingdifferent. They’ve heard about thevolcanos. Then, there are the stranger stories.Take Hafnarfj örður, the small town youreach fi rst when you come from the airport.It has a colourful history, as one of the oldestIcelandic communities. It’s a fi shing town,but that’s only part of the story.Built literally in and on the lava that flowedfrom the Búrfell volcano, you’ll quicklynotice the huge, black rocks, craters and cavesout of which houses peek. The whole area is amassive lava and geothermal area.Home for the Huldufólk, tooExploring the town, you’ll come to a quietstreet and Hellisgerði Park. It’s a magicalplace, known for its elves, dwarves andother mystical beings. It’s easy to imaginethese ‘huldufólk’ living here amidst the lavarocks that fold and twist, forming tiny cavesand strange shapes. Beside the pond windsa pathway past the rocks, many colouredwith bright emerald or contrasting olive28coloured moss. But, for many people, this isnot the place of myth but of another worldthat occasionally reveals itself. A number ofthese people have recounted meetings thesebeings. There are two tours that explainmore about this park that is celebrating it’s90 th anniversary in 2013.Art, Culture and a Living PastThe town is a vibrant centre. Besidesthe sports and the geothermally heatedswimming pools, it has a rich cultural life.Its museums are spread in different buildingsacross the town, adding authenticity to thehistory they portray. Take the Pakkhúsið orwarehouse, for example. A typical Icelandicbuilding, it displays two permanentexhibitions, the history of the town andone of classic children’s toys and lifestyleitems from the past and a third exhibitionwhose theme changes throughout the year.You’ll also find a Tourist InformationOffi ce here that will explain where all theother museums, art and cultural centresare, as well as all that can be enjoyed andexperienced during your stay in the town.And it is a town you will want to stay in.On fire in the basementGeothermal means heat from the ground—and there’s plenty of evidence of it here,along with where it came from. At Krýsuvík,a little outside the town, are steaming mudpools, bubbling hot springs, brilliantlycoloured lakes—all surrounded by equallybrilliantly coloured hills. Hikers who climbup to the top of the hill are rewarded by thesight of the spectacular steaming vent andthe view of ocean, fields and lakes. Wellmaintainedboardwalks wind through thearea—but don’t try to touch the pools.Remember where they’re coming from!These lava fields make for a marvelloushiking area, with mountains like Helgafell,with its panoramic view of the peninsula or theKrýsuvíkurberg cliffs, teaming with birdlife.–aSfHafnarfjarðarbærStrandgötu 6 • 220 Hafnarfjörður+354 585 5500hafnarfjordur@hafnarfjordur.iswww.visithafnarfjordur.isThe Warmth of Icelandall-Icelandic wool products from VarmaOne might wonder how Icelanders havekept warm through the years on aseemingly barren arctic island. ‘Varma—the warmth of Iceland’ has the answer withits brand of wool products made entirely inIceland and based on the traditional skillsand craftsmanship that kept Icelanderswarm during the hardships of past winters.The main focus of Varma is on Icelandicwool, but other types of wool like angoraYummi Yummiwe recommend.......Thai Fusion FoodStrandgata 55 • 220 HafnarfjörðurOne price 1000 kr.Hverfisgata 123 við Hlemm and Smáralindwww.yummy.isand lambs’ wool are also used in production.Varma offers a wide range of woollen goods,from socks, gloves, shawls and hats to sweatersand cardigans. Being the only manufacturer inIceland using Icelandic sheepskin, you can alsofind items like vests, mittens, hats, collars andbags in the collection. Varma also offers a littlehome collection with woollen blankets, pillowsand cushions from sheepskin and a traditionalIcelandic guestbook coated in sheepskin.+354 565 1213BanThaiLaugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemmtel: 692-0564vikings@vikingvillage.isVarma is produced by Glófi , one of theleading manufacturers of woollen goods andtraditional sheepskin products in Icelandwith production facilities in three differentlocations around the country.Varma’s products are produced in asustainable and eco-friendly manner and atthe same time with an emphasis on classicvirtues of traditional quality and style.Varma is thus committed to continuousimprovement and development in designand usage of material with respect for itsheritage and tradition.–VaGVarma-GlófiAuðbrekka 21 • 200 Kópavogur+354 464 7302birgitta@varma.iswww.varma.isFjörukráinA Viking village, set in theheart of Hafnarfjörður,Fjörukráin consists of tworestaurants, where you willbe served and entertained byViking-clothed staff. Thereis also a modern hotel and14 Viking cottages, with allmodern conveniences.www.fjorukrain.is1/10 The Best Restaurant in Icelandthe best thai foodyear 2009,2010,2011 and 2012Ban Thai is the finest thai restaurant in Icelandwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 29

The Magic of theNorthernLightsReykjavik Excursions offers three tours to see the amazing Northern LightsThe Northern Lights can be elusive but second tour another night for free. You canthe local expert tour operator Reykjavik just book it.Excursions takes you to the best viewingspots, away from the bright city lights for Glacier & Monster Truck Adventuremost ideal opportunities to see them. New in 2013 is the 8.5 hour Glacier &The season for Northern Lights typically Monster Truck Adventure. On this tourstarts early September and ends mid-April. you’ll visit Langjökull, Iceland’s secondSome people wonder why there are no Northern largest glacier. The bus meets up with aLights tours in summer—which is a valid specially modified 8x8 Monster Truckquestion as the Northern Lights exist all year along the way, which brings you to one ofaround. However, Iceland is blessed with up the most unique places you’ll ever set footto 24 hour daylight in summer which makes on, the Langjökull glacier. You’ll have theit impossible to see the Lights at that time. opportunity to learn about the NorthernEach Northern Lights experience is Lights, the glacier itself, the area’s nature —different. Ideally, the Lights are bright and and hear some local stories. A stop at a nearbydisplays last for hours in the late evening farm provides guests with the opportunityand early mornings. The expert tourist to enjoy optional light refreshments, coffee,guides at Reykjavik Excursions know the and Icelandic farm style ice cream.characteristics of the Lights and maximize In 2013 the tour starts on 20 th Septemberyour chance to see them, even on nights and runs to 31 st December. In 2014 it willwhen the Northern Lights activity is low start on 21 st January and run until 15 th April.and the sky is partly cloudy. On occasiontrips are cancelled due to heavy cloud cover.This season, Reykjavik Excursionsoffers three exciting tour options to see theNorthern Lights.Northern Lights TourThe Northern Lights Tour is ReykjavikExcursion’s tried and tested tour that hasbeen hugely popular in the past. It is availableevery night from September through mid-April. On this 3-4 hour tour you’ll travel witha local English-speaking professional touristguide who is an expert in fi nding the rightplaces to stop, effectively maximizing yourchances to see the Lights.The route changes each night accordingto the cloud cover and weather conditions.Several routes are available and ReykjavikExcursions’ staff have a lot of experiencewith reading the cloud forecast to maximizethe chances of seeing the Northern Lights.Reykjavik Excursions cannot guaranteeNorthern Lights activity and sightings.However, if they are not visible one night,the company invites its guests to take aWarm Baths & Cool Lights!Also new in 2013 is the Warm Bath & CoolLights Tour. In addition to the hunt for theNorthern Lights, you’ll enjoy a relaxing batheand a steam bath in geothermally heated waterin the open air Laugarvatn Fontana spa.Included on this tour are the bus fare withan English-speaking tourist guide, a buffetwith light refreshments and the entrance feeto the Laugarvatn Fontana spa. This tourruns from 15 th September 2013 until 15 thApril 2014 and lasts about 6.5 hours.What to bringWarm clothing is essential as you’ll hopefullyspend some time outdoors enjoying the Lights.Wear a hat, gloves, warm shoes and severallayers of clothes. Photographers love shootingthe Northern Lights for good reason. Theycan usually get a picture that far exceeds whatthe human eye can see. Photographers shouldbring a tripod and an external shutter releasefor time exposures. After manually setting thefocus to infi nity your camera settings shouldbe as follows: ISO 200, f.2.8 and expose for 30seconds. Please note that the use of built-in orexternal flashguns disturbs other guests as theeyes need some time to adjust to the darknessfor Northern Lights viewing.–SHVReykjavik ExcursionsBSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík+354 580 5400main@re.iswww.re.is31

32Duty Freethe Icelandic WayStart your Icelandic journey in the unique Duty free arrival StoreFrequent flyers know the ropes. They getthrough Passport Control and Customsand head to the Duty Free stores. They needto think. Are they entitled to it or not? Then,laden with bags, they struggle to the plane,shoving their precious cargo into alreadystuffedoverhead lockers. At the end of theirfl ight, they lug the same bags down milesof walkways, stairs and escalators, beforepicking up their luggage and strugglingto the taxis, coaches or trains, hoping theydon’t drop or break the bottles on the way.Iceland-a Different WayThe Vikings do things differently. At theInternational Airport at Kefl avik, you willfi nd a rare opportunity: a Duty Free Storein the Arrivals section right at the luggagepick-up point, where there are trolleysavailable. Mere feet from the luggagecarousels, passengers can shop at hugediscounts compared to city prices, especiallyon wines, spirits and tobacco products.Before their luggage arrives, they have donetheir shopping and saved a lot of money.Don’t lug it with you-get it hereOpened in 1970, the Arrivals Duty FreeShop was an instant success with passengers.With the airport expansion in 2008, it wasenlarged to accommodate a much largerrange of international and Icelandic brands,providing an opportunity to offer a verygood selection of products. New changesthis June bring a new buying experience,with the wines and spirits easily visible atthe front of the shop and branded gondolasso it’s easier to make your choice.Today, the Duty Free shop has thelargest range of wines, spirits and beers inthe country–larger, even, than many othercountries’ airports–and it includes theinternational award-winning Egils Gullbeer-and all at a much reduced price.Cosmetics, confectionery, tobaccoproducts, toys and electronic products –including the latest DVD titles–are allavailable at discounted prices, so it is a goodtime to take advantage of the opportunityto get low prices on things you want to useduring your visit. Here you will fi nd all thetop brands at knock-down prices. Think ofit as a holiday discount!No Discrimination—Duty Free for allIcelanders don’t mind which country you’recoming from or going to: the Duty Freediscount applies equally to all travellers.You don’t need to worry about buyingIcelandic currency fi rst, either, as all majorcards are accepted at the checkout.Go Home well stockedOf course, most of the things you buy in theArrivals Duty Free will probably be finished bythe end of your visit and you will be lookingfor something special to remember your tripand for gifts to loved ones and children.There is a large Duty Free Store in theDepartures Lounge for those uniquelyIcelandic items and a wide range ofinternational brands that make perfect giftsand souvenirs that is worth paying a visit.Duty Free fashion clothing by Burberry,Mulberry and Boss and a special range ofclothing by Icelandic designers are on sale.Unlike most other modern airports, the walkto the plane is short and trolleys can carrythe load almost to the planes. Passengers fromnon-Schengen countries do not even have tocarry their goods from the Departure Loungeas there is a shop close to their planes with thesame products and prices.–aSfDuty FreeKeflavíkairport • 235 Reykjanesbæ+354 425 0410dutyfree@dutyfree.iswww.dutyfree.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 33

KEFLAVIKINTERNATIONALAIRPORTYou’ve fallen in love with Iceland andhave decided that now is the timeto visit the country to see what everyoneis raving about. Congratulations! We arerather proud of our patch of volcanic rockand there’s no better place to begin and endyour journey than at Keflavik InternationalAirport or KEF for short.A small airport for a small countryThe compact airport means that you neverhave too far to walk to get to your flightand the modern architecture makes useof Iceland’s abundant summer light to thefull with high skylighted ceilings.The clean,spacious and sleek contemporary look iscompleted with the recent addition of newsofas and extra seating that have been addedto ensure a comfortable wait. Having wonthe 2011 Best Airport Award for airportswith less than 2 million passengers from theprestigious Airports Council International,KEF continues to strive to improve on allfronts as Iceland’s popularity as a touristdestination continues to soar.34Savour your last hours in styleI can’t think of a better way to spend one’slast few hours in Iceland than to relax inthe comfortable and cosy departure hall,reflecting on all you have seen duringyour stay. Grab yourself a sandwich anda coffee-to-go from Kaffitár or BistroAtlantic or allow yourself the luxury of anunhurried light meal at one of the airport’smore elegant bistros such as Café Europe,designed for those departing to mainlandEurope, or Café International, which servespassengers bound for the USA and the UK.Up to 50% discounts on wine and spiritsKeflavik Airport is one of the few airports inEurope that offers passengers the possibilityto shop tax and duty free, not only ondeparture but on arriving as well. It’s wellstocked range of wine and spirits is thelargest in the country and also offers tobacco,perfumes and cosmetics at prices that are upto 50% below Reykjavik prices. Make sureto take advantage of this tremendous savingbefore you start your Icelandic adventure!a Modern airport for a Modern NationDuty Free Area ShopsNothing says “I’ve been to Iceland” betterthan an Icelandic wool pullover or cardigan.Worn by generations of Icelanders downthrough history, the ‘lopapeysa’ as it iscalled in Icelandic, is probably as close toa modern-day national costume as you canget, sported by virtually everybody. Youwill find a large selection handknit woolitems for sale at Rammagerðin Gift Shop,including sweaters, hats, gloves, mittens,scarves and beautifully designed, pure woolblankets. Given the renaissance of craftsin Iceland, a fi ne selection of hand crafteditems are also stocked.Tax Free Shopping at its bestIf you didn’t manage to do much shoppingduring your stay, now is the perfect time tofi nd thoughtful gifts and souvenirs at pricesat least 15% below prices in town. EpalDesign, for instance, offers a wide arrayof imaginative and whimsical Icelandicdesigned items: jewellery and accessories,handbags, glassware and tableware,household items and even Christmas treeornaments.The top names in Icelandic designfrom around the country, as well as severalScandinavian designers, are all convenientlylocated under one roof, giving you anunparalleled opportunity to find that special gift.And if by chance you have lost or forgottenyour glasses, or need to replenish your supplyof contact lenses, Optical Studios can providevision tests, using state-of-the-art equipmentand can have standard prescription glassesready in 15-20 minutes. How about a newpair of sunglasses or reading glasses?Now, for something to read on yourlong haul fl ight...Eymundsson’s offers thelargest selection of newly released, foreignand domestic books and magazines in thecountry. Paperback editions of classic worksof fi ction by all the most famous Icelandicauthors are available in English, Germanand French. For the children there is agood selection of colouring books, crayons,puzzles and games to keep them happilyoccupied, while you get started on NobelPrize writer Halldór Laxness’ epic novel,Independent People.Nord Restaurant features early morningbreakfasts, hot coffee, freshly bakedcroissants, takeaway food and open-facedsandwiches overflowing with smoked salmon,just to name a few of their offerings, all madewith the freshest of Icelandic ingredients.Lastly, the stylish Panorama Bar offersa range of imported and Icelandic wines,liqueurs schnapps and beer. Here you mightwant to indulge in a celebratory drink ortoast to having completed a successful trip toIceland, while enjoying the expansive viewsacross the Reykjanes Peninsula.We wish you a pleasant journeyhome, and see you again soon!–EMV35

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Connected by Energy and Historya new Path between the Blue Lagoon and Grindavík village is offi cially openedThe fi shing town of Grindavík and theworld famous Blue Lagoon have beenlinked together by geography, geology andhistory from the beginning, but it wasn’t untilearlier this year that they were connected byan actual path. Last May, the five kilometrelongtwo-part path was officially named,giving visitors and locals a chance to travelbetween the two locations, while enjoying thefantastic surrounding scenery.Th e C o n t e s tThe township of Grindavík put up a contestto find the best names for the paths andthe winning suggestions are well fitting.The path from the Blue Lagoon right up tothe Selskógur forest is aptly named EnergyLane, due to the harnessing of the richgeothermal energy in the area on which theBlue Lagoon is based.From Selskógur to Grindavík village,the path was given the name IngibjörgLane. Ingibjörg was a local woman and acommunity leader who, at the age of sixty,decided to utilize a fund dedicated to herto plant a forest at the foothills of ÞorbjörnMountain. In 1957 she planted the fi rst tree36in an area she called Selskógur. The areahas since become a cherished nature resortfor the local people and leads up to severalhiking paths on Þorbjörn Mountain.What makes Grindavík interestingGrindavík is one of the true Icelandic fishingtowns, where the harbour area is its life andworth a visit in its own right. All around ityou’ll fi nd cafés, museums and a chance tosee the everyday work of Icelandic fishermenas they bring in the day’s catch.For the gourmands, there is no lack ofexciting culinary experiences to be foundand, as is to be expected, the fi sh don’t getany fresher than in the quality restaurantsof Grindavík.www.icelandictimes.comIn addition, there are plenty of exhilaratingactivities available in Grindavík, such as quadbiketours, cave exploring and horseback ridingtours in the nearby lava fields. Then, there isthe informative House of Culture and NaturalResources named Kvikan where you can learnall about how the Blue Lagoon came intobeing and the area’s rich cultural history.With Ingibjörg Lane and Energy Lane,the Blue Lagoon has now become a part of amuch bigger journey that takes you closer tothe heart of the area’s immense energy, historyand culture.–VaGGrindavíkurbærVíkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík+354 420 1100grindavik@grindavik.iswww.visitgrindavik.isThe BridgeRestaurantBRÚINTveir Vitara cosy café & restaurantwith views over the Atlantic OceanOnly 10 minutes from the airportGarðbraut 100 • 250 Garður • +354 422 7214The GarðskagiNatural PearlThe open-air museum in Garðskagi is located in a natural garden, whichblends the beauty of the landscape with its rich animal and bird life. Themuseum has both a Folk and Maritime Museum and has an outstandingcollection of machines. Open daily from 1 pm to 5 pm.From the terrace of the restaurant you can watch whales in their naturalenvironment. One of the two lighthouses in the region is open to visitors.A campground offers affordable accommodation.Byggðasafn Garðskaga, Skagabraut 100 • 250 Garður +354 422 7220gardskagi@simnet.iswww.svgardur.isThis elegant restaurant in the fishing town of Grindavík seats 120. On the menu, you will findfish fresh from the sea along with a wide selection of pastries and a steady flow of coffee.Relax and enjoy the beautiful views of the harbour and the mountains while you enjoy adelicious Icelandic meal.There is a well-stocked bar along with television and Internetaccess. It’s a perfect opportunity to buy a genuine Icelandic sweater and other crafts.Hafnargata 26, 240 Grindavík +354 426 7080

€4€4TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Hot as the SunIce Glass creates art in glassWith over 20 years experience workingtogether, mother and son team ofGulla and Lárus are producing awesomeworks of art in glass in their small glassfoundry, next to Kaffi Duus in Keflavik.Glass making is highly technical scienceand art combined. With ovens burning as hotas the sun or a cooler 500°C, this is not workfor the timid. Much of the skill of the glassmaker lies in intuition and experience, inknowing at exactly what moment to work it.The glass factory is open from 12-6pmweekdays and visitors are welcome. Not onlydo you get to look around at the wide range ofcreations but, if you have something in mind,they’ll try to make it for you on the spot.The gallery offers a glimpse intothe prodigious creative abilities of theartists—and you’re more than likelyto find a use for a lot of the items inyour home! Knowing that most visitorsreturn home heavy-laden, Ice Glass willship anything that catches your fancyso it arrives safely.Ice Glass is experimenting withrecycling glass products rather thansending them to a landfill and creatingbeautiful works of art from them.–aSfIce GlassGrófin 2 • 230 Reykjanesbær+354 857 0850gulla@iceglass.iswww.iceglass.isGrindavík’s Harbour CaféThe reputation of the Bryggjan netmakers’ café is spreading fastWalk down by Grindavík’s harbourand you may see the nets. Then youknow you’re there. Bryggjan’s main workis repairing fishing nets and lines—netsthat would completely cover the nearbymountain and lines that would stretch waybeyond Reykjavik, over 50 km away.This is a fishing town and the café is afishermen’s café—though, with the growingnumber of visitors from all over the worldfi nding it, it is quickly becoming the caféof choice in the area. Little wonder, as thehelp and friendliness of the owners is onlymatched by the delicious food they offer.My suggestion: don’t leave without having abowl of their soup. It’s really good.While I was there, one of the ownerswas spending time with visiting tourists,explaining the area and showing them on amap the best places to visit.It’s in the evenings and on weekends thatthings really take off, though. It’s a smallplace but packed with character. A piano inthe corner is often pressed into use, makingit a fun and inspiring evening. Whether youare a local or just visiting, you’ll feel at home.–aSfCafé BryggjanMiðgarði 2 • 240 Grindavík+354 426 7100kaffibryggjan@simnet.iswww.kaffibryggjan.isImages © Gabriel RutenbergImages by © Gabriel RutenbergHarbour Dining in Old Keflavikauthentic Icelandic and international cuisine at Kaffi DuusIt’s the classic seafood restaurant settingoverlooking Keflavik’s small harbour.From our window seat, we are treated to aview of the deep blue waters of Faxaflói Bayand the snow capped mountains of SnæfellnessPeninsula on the horizon. A pair of kittiwakesglide overhead, completing the picture-perfectsetting. From its simple beginnings as smallcafé, Kaffi Duus has evolved into a sizablerestaurant with an extensive menu, suitablefor an intimate tete-á-tete or a special occasiondinner for large groups.38The chef regaled me with one of thespecialties of the house, the ‘Seafood Trioá la Duus’, comprising 3 types of fish, plusshrimp and lobster tails on a mound of freshvegetables. Arriving steaming hot, served on awooden platter, it was impressive and delicious.Also on the menu: authentic Indian vegetablestews, pasta dishes and a range of fresh fish,lobster and all manner of seafood dishes. If youare not a seafood lover, the ‘Grilled Trio of theHouse’—lamb fillet, beef and pork tenderloin,served with grilled vegetables and baked potatoallows you to sample some of the best cuts ofsucculent Icelandic meat.Kaffi Duus will fulfi ll your expectationsfor authentic Icelandic and internationalcuisine in a charming location, just 5minutes from the airport.–EMVKaffi DuusDuusgötu 10 • 230 Reykjanesbæ+354 421 7080duus@duus.iswww.duus.isISSN 2298-318XISSN 2298-3171L´Islande, Terre des ExtrêmesChevaux et BaleinesSagas et Vikingswww.icelandictimes.comVon Poeten, Walen und PferdenVon stillen Bergen und regionaler KücheIsland - mit allen Sinnen erleben!www.icelandictimes.comDeutsche AusgabeNow also availablein French and GermanThe Icelandic Times is onsale in all good bookshops inIcelandDaytrips.isAT ICELAND TOURSWe visit: Daily, year roundGolden Circle, National park, Blue Lagoon,Landmannalaugar, Þorsmörk, Snæfellsnes,Borgarfjörður, South Coast, Glacial LagoonGuided day trips from ReykjavikBy 4x4 SuperJeep: Groups 1-7 personsBy luxury coach: Groups 8-62 personsBogabraut 12 • 245 Sandgerði + 354 899 6312info@daytrips.isBOOK NOWGuesthousewww.daytrips.isBORGGuesthouse Borg is open all year for you to enjoyour homely atmosphere. Guesthouse Borg is only5 min drive from the Blue Lagoon and 20 min drivefrom the international airport. Guesthouse Borg isin the centre of the wonderful town of Grindavíkwhere you can enjoy the hospitality of its peopleand its life.Borgarhraun 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 895 8686bjorksv@simnet.iswww.guesthouseborg.comwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 39

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Dine 10 min from the AirportVitinn, at Sandgerði’s harbour makes dining a delightAfter a long fl ight, getting your luggageand getting out of the airport atKeflavík, that gnawing feeling in yourstomach needs to be satisfi ed but you stillhave the trip to your hotel, checking in andso on–possibly an hour or more, at least.Less than 10 minutes drive away, however, isone of the most famous restaurants in Iceland.It is probably the only restaurant in all Europeto cook the delicious rock crab. The lunchesand dinners here feature really fresh seafood.The fishing boats delivertheir catch only a few metresaway from the restaurantitself, so you can see why.For those with a preferencefor meat, the roasted filletof Icelandic lamb is highlyrecommended.Flights often arrive anddepart early in Iceland, soVitinn opens at 7 am to offergroups delicious breakfaststhat will sustain them forhours to come. Here, again,the food is freshly cooked.Dining at Vitinn is a very inspiringintroduction to Iceland. The restaurantinterior, with its richly coloured wooden wallsand beams, is adorned with mementos fromboth Sandgerði’s agricultural and seafaringpast. In summer months, diners can enjoytheir meals outside with a view over theharbour and sea, the clean and fresh airadding to the experience.–aSfVitinnVitatorg 7 • 245 Sandgerði+354 423 7755info@vitinn.iswww.vitinn.isFour Star Comfort in KeflavíkHotel Kefl avík has been transformed to meet travellers’ needs todayHotel Keflavík opened in 1986 andwas the first 4-star hotel to open inKeflavík. It predominantly served the travellerwho was just staying one night on arrivalor before flying out. Since then, however,Iceland has gone from “Iceland’s Best KeptSecret” to the “Destination of Choice”.Complete renovationsThe hotel was renovated, both inside andout, this last winter to accommodate theburgeoning infl ux of visitors coming for aholiday to see Iceland’s amazing sights andit now has 70 comfortable rooms available.With its proximity to the airport, Keflavíkis naturally a handy place to stay but it isits proximity to a wide range of sights andexperiences that is making it so popular thatmany visitors now use it as their base.Great for GroupsIncentive groups find the hotel especiallyconvenient, as it can host meetings for up to60 with its separate dining room for groupsin addition to the restaurant and bar. Itsbreakfasts, known to be among the best inIceland, are served from 5 am especially fortravellers leaving or arriving on a fl ight.The hotel offers a free transfer serviceby taxi to or from the airport. It’s only a5 minute drive, which is a real relief whenyou’re tired or rushed.–aSfHótel KeflavíkVatnsnesvegur 12-14 • 230 Keflavík+354 420 7000stay@kef.iswww.kef.isHOTEL BERGA beautiful tranquil hotel overlooking a small harbour5 min walk from best restaurants in townSoothing hot tub—Free WiFiPrivate bathroom in every roomClose to the airport, Blue Lagoon and other sitesFree transport to and from the airportTripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence 2012BlueCar rentalProfessional car rental agency located atKefl avík international airportCars for every need and budgetNice and effi cient staff at your serviceHotel/guesthouse pick up and drop off atKefl avik airport, at Reykjavík or at the BluelagoonBakkavegur 17 • 230 Reykjanesbær +354 422 7922berg@hotelberg.iswww.hotelberg.isBlikavellir 3 • 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur +354 773 7070blue@bluecarrental.is www.bluecarrental.isSKARTSMIÐJANRáinRestaurantCustom-made fashion jewellery:Bracelets, brooches, necklaces and ringsJewellery supplies – buttons, sewing,knitting, tools, gift boxes, bags, keychainsSell woollens, leather and fish skinElegant and cosy restaurant, established in 1989Expert in Icelandic raw materials, in all possible waysPersonalised serviceOnly 10 minutes from the international airport40Hafnargata 35 • 230 Reykjanesbær +354 421 5121kast@kast.iswww.kast.isHafnargata 19 • 230 Keflavik +354 421 4601rain@rain.iswww.rain.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 41

42Photographers’ Secretsakranes provides prize-winning possibilitiesAkranes, in West Iceland, has been aspecial place ever since it was founded bytwo Irish brothers during the Settlement Era.Being part of the Faxaflói bay, it has attractedsettlers throughout the centuries for bothfishing and farming. The ancient market placeis still one of Iceland’s most important fishingtowns, a 50 km drive from Reykjavik andeasily accessible via the Hvalfjörður tunnel.Fertile landsThe Icelandic name Akranes can betranslated to ‘corn fi eld peninsula’, whichsuggests that it had been a fertile area in thedays of the Vikings. As Akranes is a coastaltown, the ever-present sea breeze easilychanges one’s perception of the vastness andeternity of waves, sand and sky.A treasure trove for any thoughtfulwanderer and for hunters of the moment,Akranes may quite rightly be called aphotographer’s paradise, providing aninexhaustible number of fleeting photoopportunities, ever-changing according tothe whims of nature.Solitude within reachIn contrast to other towns, it’s only a shortjourney to reach the magnificent trio of sand,sea and sky in complete solitude. Akranes’two lighthouses are a few minutes’ drive fromthe centre, along the Suðurflös Penninsula.The taller one, Akranesviti, is operationaltoday, but the older one serves perfectly asan atmospheric background. Akranesviti,has recently been opened to the public bythe Akranes Photographer’s Club, who alsomaintain an exhibition inside the lighthouse.The climb to the top is worth the effort, forit is here that you can enjoy the breathtakingpanorama which offers up innumerablephotographic possibilities.Professional photographers appreciate thesublime scenery around Breið, and numerousphotographs taken here have been awardedprizes and have been published in magazines.The pristine beach of Langisandur, closeto the lighthouses, is the perfect backdropfor taking marvellous photos of the sunplaying with shadows or of delicate sandsculptures formed by the waves. Your onlycompany will be the sea birds and maybesome lone, late season wanderer, attemptingto take a swim in the sea. The old shipHöfrungur I, silently anchored on the shoresof Akranes reveals its story to the attentivevisitor, while serving as an ideal focalpoint in the panorama of the SnaefellsnessPeninsula. A short drive in the oppositedirection will take you to Akranes’ owntwin peaked mountain, Akrafj all. It needsno experienced hiker to reach either summit,Geirmundartindur or Háihnjúkur, to fi ndsights worth shooting.Winter’s prize: the Northern LightsThe autumn light in Iceland is unique.With Iceland fortuitously situated close tothe north pole, the angle of the sun’s raysenlighten all it touches with intense coloursnot seen at lower latitudes, pouring out itsmagic gold across the landscape. Whilesummer days seem to be made of pureintensity, winter brings the dark nightsdark again, and the heart of a photographerstarts beating faster in anticipation ofthe Northern Lights being visible oncemore. The amazing display of green-whitelight, silently appearing in one second andvanishing in the next, then reappearingsome minutes later in a completely differentway, places a paradoxical veil of eternity onthe spectator’s mind, who takes in this grandscenery without distraction.Akranes is an excellent location forNorthern Lights’ hunters, as there is aminimum of light pollution around thelighthouse and the beach, facilitated bythe sea breeze which seems eager to blowdisturbing clouds away.While you may be staying in one ofAkranes’ cosy guesthouses, you mightfind it more exciting to spend part ofyour evenings down at the old lighthouse,enjoying the ocean’s solitude and chasingnature’s magnificence with your camera.Good things come to those who wait.–DTAkranes Tourist Information OfficeSuðurgata 57 • 300 Akranesi+354 433 1065info@akranes.iswww.visitakranes.is43Images by © Finnur Andrésson

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013PrepareAmazedto beHelo fl ies you into panoramas only visible from the airThrough windows that stretch from floorto ceiling, you can view the spectacularsights that Iceland is so famous for from anentirely different perspective. While the peopleon the ground run around like ants, with onlya limited view, soaring above them, you cantruly take in the magnificent panoramas.Time is shortVisiting Iceland, your time is necessarilylimited and you want to make the most ofit. Trips that might take all day in a coachcan be accomplished in a matter of hourswith time at more sites.Specialists in photographySince you are not restricted to following theroads when flying in a helicopter, a whole newworld of sights is opened up to you. You goplaces that even off-road jeeps never reach.Taking to the air offers a realm of uniquephoto opportunities that those on theground would never even dream of. Differentperspectives and angles, the play of light andshadow all take on a new dimension neverseen by the earth-bound cameraman.44The Big BellFlying in a helicopter today is an experiencein comfort travel. The new Bell 407 has aspacious cabin, comfortable seating andthose big windows onto the world below.Seating up to six passengers, it’s a greatopportunity for a family or incentive group.Helo has two other helicopters and all threecan provide either group or exclusive fl ights.Tours of a lifetimeThere are four tours that are especiallypopular. The Reykjavík Panorama is a halfhourview of the capital from the air inwhich passengers can see everything fromfi shermen’s houses to the mountains of Esja.The Geothermal Wilderness tour takesyou further to Hvalfjörður fjord, whereAllied ships prepared for the dangerousAtlantic crossing in the 1940s, before takingin the beautiful Glymur waterfall, thetallest in Iceland. On to Þingvellir, wherethe world’s longest running parliament fi rstmet. From the air, the view of the earth’ssurface, as the American and Europeantectonic plates pull apart is unique. Onthe south side of Þingvallavatn lake lie thegeothermal plants providing eco-friendlyheat and hot water to Reykjavík from thehot volcanic rocks deep under the surface.The Golden ExperienceThis fl ight takes in the sights of the GoldenCircle—and a lot more. Spectacular fromthe air, you see the same fjord and waterfallbefore landing on Langjökull glacier, fromwhich you can see both the Arctic Sea tothe north and the Atlantic to the south ona clear day. Then, it’s on to see the mightyGulfoss waterfall, lunching at Geysir beforeheading back to Þingvellir, the lake andgeothermal areas. In about 3 hours, you getto take in more than road-based tours doin 12, with more fl exibility and certainly,amazing views.Sometimes, people have ‘impossibledreams’. Take, for instance, the‘Bucket List’ wish of one man to take inthe view from the top of Iceland’s highestpeak, Hvannadalshnúkur, rising up fromthe midst of Vatnajökull’s vast ice sheet.For a fit person, it would be a challengebut, for this man, crippled by a devastatingdisease and now bound to a wheelchair,Fulfilling a Dreamit could have seemed an impossibility.However, his colleagues decided that, withhelp from Helo, it would happen.The dream came true as, onebrilliantly sunny day, Helo’s helicopterlifted off with this courageous man and,about half an hour later, he was on topof the mountain, his dream fulfilled,surveying a view only few get to see.Image by © Ingi R. IngasonThe Volcanic AdventureThis fl ies you to the notorious volcanos inSouth Iceland that brought air travel to ahalt. Landing close to the Fimmvörðuhálsvolcano, you’ll feel the ground, still hot fromthe eruptions.The Exclusive FlightsOffering both freedom and flexibility, you cango where and for as long as you like, creatingyour own experience. You could have lunch ona glacier, for example, or swim in a hot pool ordine at a fine country restaurant, as the sun sinkslow on the horizon. It’s your choice—and theexperienced staff will not only make it possiblebut will give you background information, too.Book aheadYou can imagine, the trips are very popular—especially in summer, so it’s wise to contact Heloin advance to book the tour of your choice.–aSfHelo–Helicopter Service of IcelandMörkin 3 • 104 Reykjavík+354 561 6100disa@helo.iswww.helo.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 45

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013History Brought to LifeThe Snorrastofa Cultural and Medieval Centre is in ReykholtSnorri Sturluson (1179-1241), Iceland’sbest known Saga writer and scholar, isthe author of such important and famousworks as Heimskringla, which is one of themost important sources of Scandinavianhistory; Snorra Edda, a handbook on poetryand mythology; and probably one of the verybest Sagas of Icelanders, Egil’s Saga, the storyof the Viking poet Egill Skallagrímsson.Snorri’s records of the Old Norse languageand Nordic mythology are invaluable tomodern scholars. The quality of his writingmade him the foremost historical writer ofmedieval times throughout Europe. Hisstyle, bringing his characters to life, makesfascinating reading even today.Snorri was a wealthy and powerfulchieftain in the age of unrest and civil warpreceding Iceland’s loss of independence. Hewas murdered by his enemies in his home onthe 23 rd September 1241.46SnorrastofaSnorrastofa, the Cultural and MedievalCentre in Reykholt in West Iceland,was founded in memory of Snorri. It issituated on his ancient homestead, whichis considered one of Iceland’s mostnoteworthy historical sites. Snorrastofamanages research, a library, an exhibitionabout Snorri and conference facilities.It also runs a tourist reception anda souvenir shop, which offers books,postcards and Icelandic designs, someexclusively for sale in Snorrastofa.A new exhibition‘The Snorri Sturluson Saga’, can now be visited inSnorrastofa. It tells the story of Snorri’s excitinglife, addressing issues such as upbringing,education, writing, properties and manors.Snorri’s bath (a geothermally heatedpool) can be seen outside along with thetunnel which led from his private manordirectly out to the pool.A statue of Snorri by Gustav Vigelandstands in front of the old district school,which was used between 1931 and 1997.Today the beautiful building, designed byGuðjón Samúelsson, is administered bySnorrastofa, offering apartments and studyfacilities for scholars, along with meetingand conference facilities.The Reykholt ChurchesThere are two churches in Reykholt: the oldchurch, consecrated in 1887, now beautifullyrestored by the National Museum of Iceland,and the new church built between 1988and 1996. The new church is known forits strikingly designed windows (designedby Valgerður Bergsdóttir) and its acoustics.The church is famous for its concerts allyear round. A classical music festival of thehighest quality, The Reykholt Music Festivalis held annually on the last weekend in July.Snorrastofa’s exhibition, ‘The SnorriSturluson Saga’, can be visited throughoutthe year. During the summer season, (1 stMay —31 st August), the opening hours arefrom 10 to 18 every day, and during thewinter season, from 10 to 17 on weekdaysand, if booked in advance, during weekends.–aMBSnorrastofaReykholt • 320 Borgarfjörður+354 433 8000snorrastofa@snorrastofa.iswww.snorrastofa.isHot from the OvenGeiri’s Bakery and Coffee Shop in BorgarnesTravellers coming from Reykjavikspot the bakery from the Borgarnesbridge. There’s plenty of parking rightoutside the shop. Geiri’s customersimmediately feel welcome the momentthey step into the bakery, where deliciouspastries and breads are made on the spot.Geiri is an affable man who takes pridein what he knows best, which is bakingbreads and pastries of all sorts. His personalfavourites are the ‘love balls’, which are oilfried balls of pastry a little larger than a golfball, and a cinnamon bun commonly called‘snúður’ in Icelandic. His special versionSweet Memories of IcelandIcelandic Souvenirs Your friends and family will LoveOne of the things on the “to do” listwhile visiting Iceland is to pick upsome really cool and fun souvenirs forfamily and friends. To fi ll this need, ÍslandTreasures has a range of souvenir candies tosuit almost every taste.Why not pick up a cute box of IcelandicPuffi n Eggs for grandma? She will love thebeautiful painting of a typical puffi n colonyon an Icelandic sea cliff and be wowed bythe unique taste of the combination ofchocolate and liquorice that is so popularwith Icelanders. That golf–playing unclewould just be thrilled to receive the funnygolfers’ version of Icelandic Puffin Eggswith the puffi n and the golfer confused overwhich white ball is theirs.Friends at work might like some IcelandicLava Sparks—traditional Icelandic toffee ina red crispy shell which come packed withan amazing painting of Eyjafjallajökullerupting in 2010 or Icelandic LavaPebbles—traditional Icelandic liquoricetoffee with a hint of chocolate wrapped ina black crispy shell packed with a beautifulpainting of Skógafoss waterfall.Hopefully you will get the chance toview the Northern Lights dancing acrossthe Icelandic skies on your visit but if not,why not take home some Icelandic NorthernLights—hand made, all natural, peppermintsugar candies in the amazing colours ofthe Northern Lights. Available in allthe best tourist shops, hotels andthe duty free store at Keflavikairport.on this popular theme comes with a thickchocolate crust and a large glass of freshmilk. They can all be enjoyed sitting at thecomfortable seats and sturdy wooden tablesof the coffee shop.The view is so extraordinary that visitorsshould be charged an entrance fee! Rightoutside the window, there is a tidal plainfi lled with birds at low tide and the secondlongest bridge in Iceland. Beyond the bridgeone sees the impressive local mountains,snow-capped in winter. In the distance liethe Eiríksjökull and Langjökull glaciers.Geiri’s bakery is the perfect spotto stop for refreshments on yourtravels on the Ring Road.GeirabakaríDigranesgötu 6 310 Borgarnes+354 437 2020geirabak@internet.iswww.facebook.com/geirabakari.ehfÍsland TreasuresSkagabraut 25 • 300 Akranes+354 612 5065islandtreasures@gmx.comwww.islandtreasures.bizwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 47–SHV–aSf

Tax & Duty FreeExperience IcelandAll of our shops and restaurants offer youIcelandic memories to take home.ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 65554 09/13One of few airports in the world that is both taxand duty free — meaning up to 50% off city prices.Goðafoss

Iceland Excursions’ tour encapsulates IcelandFROM FIRETO ICEOn your way into Reykjavik, you can seethick columns of steam rising over themountains. The source of much of the capital’sheating, the water is heated deep in the earth onthe burning rocks of volcanoes long dormant.The tour to Jökulsárlón takes you over thosemountains, past the powerful steam vents fromthe geothermal power station at their foot, to thesouth of the country. It’s easy to use superlativesin describing Iceland’s many features but this isone tour in which they are justified.Nestled on the other side of the mountainsis the little garden town of Hveragerði, wherethe hot springs that bubble up are also used50for cooking and growing food, among otherthings. It’s a volatile region, where earthquakeshave shaken things up in recent years. However,it looks placid now, with green fields and smallfarms stretching to the sea.All will be revealedOne of the greatest benefits of taking a touris that the knowledgeable guides can tell youall about the area while you are enjoying thecomfort of being a passenger and not having tobe concerned about the driving.Through their narration, you becomeimmersed in the history, geology, culture andlifestyle of both past and present whilst soakingin the beauty of the countryside.Some of everythingTravelling down to Jökulsárlón, you passthrough the countryside where Njál’s saga wasenacted. In the small town of Hvolsvöllur, theSaga Centre tells the whole tragic story.Mount Hekla, known as the ‘Gateway toHell’ is clearly visible before the town as youenter this area of volcanos both old and new.It is also an area of beautiful waterfallsand the tour stops at two very different falls:Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. The glaciersyou pass grow increasingly massive in sizeuntil you find yourself travelling underEurope’s largest, the mighty Vatnajökull.These glaciers are deceptive: under theice, they hide increasingly violent, fieryvolcanos, from Eyjafj allajökull to Katla tothe biggest, Öræfajökull, hiding just behindIceland’s highest peak.Arriving in a fantasyAs the ice melts, glacial tongues stretch downtowards the road. However, at one point,something unique takes place. It began in theearly 1920s, when melting ice couldn’t reachthe sea and formed a lagoon. Since that time,it has grown in size year by year and now someof the melting icebergs will make it to the sea.Often, the ocean swell will sweep fish intothe lagoon. The seals know this makes a goodrestaurant for them and they are often to beseen basking on an iceberg after a good meal.Even from the lagoon’s edge, this is a fantasticsight, as the sunlight plays off the blocks of ice.However, the tour continues on an amphibiousboat, winding its way through the icebergs, uptowards Vatnajökull itself. Sometimes, the icecan actually be seen breaking off this massiveglacier, starting its journey to the sea.The photo opportunities at the lagoonare quite amazing but it’s the experienceof just being there, in the silence, amongstthe ice, formed into fantastic shapes thatreally counts. The photos you take willprovide beautiful memories of this tripinto a fantasy world and a talking pointwith friends for years to come.–aSfIceland ExcusionsHafnarstræti 20 • 101 Reykjavík+354 540 1313iceland@grayline.iswww.grayline.is51

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Just OpenedSiglunes Guesthouse offers a comfortable stay with an old world charmnew guesthouse just opened in theA very north of Iceland, in Siglufjörður.The building has been totally renovatedand yet, with the wood panelling in thebar and lounge and the old style furniture,you feel you have stepped back in time.The beds are all new, high quality andvery comfortable—something you’llappreciate after travelling or hiking in themountains. The second and third floorbedrooms all have private bathrooms anda mountain view. The six rooms on theground fl oor have shared bathrooms. Allhave Wi-Fi access.Siglunes Guesthouse provides healthychoices for breakfasts throughout theyear. For a day out hiking or otheroutdoor activities, they can provide foodpacks and from mid-June until the end ofAugust, the restaurant will be open fordinners in the evenings. Where possible,locally grown food is offered.Siglufjörður is a good base for hiking andbird photography. The views are nothingshort of spectacular at any time of the yearand the birdlife is amazingly varied. It is apopular place for sport, culture and historyand my personal favourite town for its beautyand friendliness. The trip alone is worth it andit’s a perfect place to stop when taking thescenic ‘Arctic Bow’ route around the north.–aSfSiglunes GuesthouseLækjargata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður+354 467 1222info@hotelsiglunes.iswww.hotelsiglunes.isTreasure at the WorldSiglufjörður Hostel provides great accommodation for travellersOne of the most glamorous hotels inIceland in the hey-day of the herringbonanza in the 1930s, Hvanneyri guesthouseand hostel is still the place to stay when youare in far north of Iceland in Siglufjörður onthe Troll peninsula.Today, it is a family-owned and run hosteland it has that feeling of staying in a warm,comfortable family home with helpfulfamily members who take an interest in you.Whether you are travelling alone, with afamily or in a group, you will find a friendlywelcome and comfortable stay for budgetconscioustravellers with all the facilities oneexpects in a modern guesthouse and hostel.That includes free Wi-Fi, parking, a barbequegrill, a guest kitchen—and free coffee, too.This has been an international centre eversince it was built. Its reputation has spreadacross the continents and it is a hub fortravellers from many different nations, someof whom return year after year.Located on the main street, it issurrounded by the town’s bakery, restaurantsand shops, making it a perfect place to setup base for hiking or photography—or justsimply enjoying the spectacularly beautifulcountryside with its mountains and fjord.Hvanneyri GuesthouseAdalgata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður+354 467 1506order@hvanneyri.comwww.hvanneyri.com–aSf52AllinnAllinn restaurant specialisesin Icelandic home cookingand pizzas. It is situated in abeautifully restored houseoverlooking Siglufjörður’s mainsquare. It is reasonably pricedand suits people of all ages.Aðalgata 30 • 580 Siglufjörður +354 467 1111Sauðanes Mountain HorsesGo horse riding in the Midnight Sun with Mountain Horses at Suðanes farmthat offers a wide variety of tailor made riding tours to suit anyone fromfanatical horse enthusiasts to first-time riders in the beautiful landscapes ofthe fjords and valleys of Tröllaskagi only about 40 km away from the ArcticCircle. The tours can vary in time from one or two hours up to 4 days.Beautiful evening tours in the summer’s Midnight Sun in one of the bestareas in the world to enjoy this spectacular phenomena. Enjoy the fun ofriding happy, healthy and well kept horses in beautiful natural surroundings.Sauðanes • 580 Siglufjörður +354 4671375saudanes@visir.is fjallahestar.isSinging in the SilenceOn the Troll Peninsula, Hotel Brimnes surrounds you with natureIt’s as if the birds know the photographersand nature lovers are coming. They puton their most colourful attire and theirsinging can be heard all around the lakeand surrounding mountains in the summermonths. We’re up in the north of Iceland, onthe banks of Ólafsfjörður lake. The view isstunning, like a picture postcard—but it’s real.Hotel Brimnes has recently refurbishedits 11 hotel rooms. Its 8 popular log cabinson the lake’s edge, each with its own privatehot tub, fed by a nearby geothermal source,accommodate families or groups of up tosix, perfect for those who love to go troutfishing, kayaking, diving, horse riding,hiking or cycling around this beauty spot.A picture of tranquility and beautyOn a still day, the lake is like a mirror,reflecting the surrounding mountains on itssurface. It’s a place to come to be refi lled,far from the madding crowd of cities andsmog. The pristine beauty restores the souland provides a different perspective on life.Of course, the world is out there and, if youneed it, there is free Wi-Fi in all the rooms.The hotel’s restaurant provides deliciousmeals with ingredients from the area and hasa great wine selection to go with them.The Arctic BowThis part of North Iceland, known as theActic Bow, is also known for its spectacularscenery. With the opening of the new tunnels,access to the whole Troll Peninsula is easy.Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter, youwill fi nd plenty to enjoy here.–aSfBrimnes HótelBylgjubyggð 2 • 625 Ólafsfjörður+354 466 2400hotel@brimnes.iswww.brimnes.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 53

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013TheNorthernPlaygroundakureyri, the Base from which to Reach all the Northern Sights and HighlightsThe dozen inhabitants in 1786, clingingto the side of Iceland’s longest fj ord,Eyjafj örður, probably never imagined theirbrave struggle would ultimately produce atown of 18,000 people with all the servicesof a major city.Akureyri is not as big as any of theworld’s cities but it provides all the featuresand services expected of a big city in avery compact form, so that everything isavailable within a short distance.Take, for instance, winter activities likeskiing. The family-friendly slopes are under10 minutes from the airport and the hotels.Likewise the horseriding tours, boat trips,bird watching, shopping—to name a few—are all so close, you can almost touch them.You name it, it’s close-by.The weather, with its combination ofcrisp, dry snow and Northern Lights—atthe peak of their cycle this winter—makesa holiday here memorable.need them and relax in the club houseafterwards.See the SightsAkureyri is also a service base for many ofthe most important tourist destinations inNorth Iceland. From here, you can visitMývatn, Dettifoss—the most powerfulwaterfall in Europe, the island of Hrísey,with its powerful healing energy andGrímsey, straddling the Arctic Circle, seevolcanos and boiling mud pools and, infact, reach all the pearls of the north inunder 2 hours.54Cultural Centre of the NorthWhen it comes to culture, Akureyri has itall: museums, art galleries, internationalexhibitions, conference facilities, musicconcerts of all genres, opera, theatres andcinemas showing the latest films.It has well over 20 restaurants, coveringboth Icelandic and international cuisine, withtop chefs who create their own innovativecuisine. Cafés, each with their individualspeciality abound, while local microbreweriesand farms offering food tasting area fascinating addition to the food scene.For groups and incentive tours, Akureyrioffers such a wide range of activities, eventsand opportunities, it maximises the timeavailable. There are a multitude of tourscovering every interest from flying to caving,from fi shing to the Hidden People, walkingto whale-watching.Sports of all kindsSport activities are very popular in theNorth and many sports are represented inthis dynamic community.The geothermally–heated swimmingpools, with their hot pots and jaccuzzi areopen—and very popular—all year round.The Arctic Open Golf championshipis played on the most northerly 18-holecourse in the world, just outside the cityunder snow–covered mountains and themidnight sun. You can hire clubs if youEasy AccessFlights from both Keflavik international andReykjavik airports take just 40 min. Scheduledbuses leave from Reykjavik Bus Station. Thereare numerous tours, some of which go throughthe highlands during summer months. Thebus service is free in town.Naturally, every common form oftransport is available: car, bike, boat,horse, ATV, plane rentals. Every type ofaccommodation is also on hand, from4-star hotels to camp sites.Akureyri has it all and an outgoingfriendly welcome, too.–aSfAkureyrarstofaStrandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri+354 450 1050akureyrarstofa@akureyri.iswww.visitakureyri.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 55

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Ambassador to the WhalesSee the whales from akureyri’s specialised whale watching shipThis is the fi rst year of scheduled toursfrom Akureyri with the ‘Ambassador’whale-watching ship. The beautiful town ofAkureyri itself, full of old historic houses, issimply captivating.The Whales’ homeThe North of Iceland is home to all thespecies of whales found around the country.Eyjafjörður, particularly, is home toHumpback Whales—gigantic animals wholove singing and slapping their fins and tails!It is beautiful to watch these magnificentcreatures jump up out of the ocean!Additionally, Minke Whales, Dolphins,Harbour Porpoises and Blue Whales areseen in the fjord.Sailing with the ‘Ambassador’The name ‘Ambassador’ refers to its functionof connecting whales and humans and it hasgreat viewing facilities to do that. It sails threetimes a day during summer from Akureyri’scentral harbour, next to the Hof cultural house.Tours take from three to four hours, duringwhich you get guidance about the nature ofthe whales, the sea, the fjord, the mountains—the whole eco-system. Being protected fromwinds and weather by the mountains ensuresthat it’s calmer than the open sea.The sailing scheduleMorning tours leave at 8.30, afternoon tours at13.00—and an evening tour at 20.30, givingyou the opportunity to watch the whalesand enjoy the bright and beautiful colours ofnorthern evening sun simultaneously!–NNH/aSfAmbassadorTorfunesbryggja • 600 Akureyri+354 462 6800info@ambassador.iswww.ambassador.isprepared and cooked to order on the spot toget the most flavour.The North Eats ThaiThe Popular Krua Siam Restaurant feeds folk in akureyriWhat inspired experienced Thai cooksand kitchen assistants to leave theexotic lands of South East Asia to venture tothe Land of the Vikings, I cannot imagine.But I’m very glad they did. After openingthe Reykjavik food scene to their uniqueblend of Thai ingredients and Icelandicmeats and vegetables, the intrepid cookscontinued north to Akureyri.Established in 2007 and now under thesame management as Reykjavik’s Krua Thai,56it is easy to find Krua Siam opposite thefamous Hof concert hall by the harbour.Set ApartBesides the experienced Thai staff, what setsthese restaurants apart is that all the spices,rice and noodles that are uniquely Thai arebrought in directly from Thailand. However,the meat and vegetables are pure Icelandicand this is what contributes to the deliciousfl avour in every meal. Each meal is freshlywww.icelandictimes.comEat What You Like for LessBoth Krua Siam and Krua Thai are known fortheir reasonable prices. In addition, Krua Siamoffers a full five course lunch buffet every daybetween 11:30 and 13:30. Here, you can eat allyou like for the same good price.With a large range of dishes to choose from,you can eat like a Thai—taking a piece from anumber of different dishes. It’s a great way toeat as a family or with a group of friends.Drinks to go with the mealA number of wines and spirits go well withThai food, so Krua Siam has a bar andstocks alcoholic beverages—along withjuices and soft drinks.Catering to the NeedThe restaurant also provides Take Away andHome Delivery options, but to get the mostflavour, eat it right away.–aSfKrua SiamStrandgötu 13 • 600 Akureyri+354 466 3800kruasiam@kruasiam.iswww.kruasiam.is

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Básar Guesthouse in GrímseyWhere Everybody Knows Your NameFor those used to living in metropolitanareas or even small towns, a visit toGrímsey will surely change the way youfeel about your neighbours. Grímsey isa tiny island of only two square miles,located 25 miles north of Iceland and has apopulation of less than a hundred. The smallpopulation ensures that everyone has a sharein the community’s responsibilities and thateveryone knows everybody.For example: one inhabitant, RagnhildurHjaltadóttir, shares the duties of being themanager of local guesthouse, Básar, operatorof a small banking branch in Grímsey, airportmanager and chairwoman for the localwomen’s club. “In order to live happily insuch a tight-knit community, you have to be100% content with yourself and be generousto the community. We have an extremelyactive social life and there is really no otheralternative than to take part in it. We tendto celebrate every occasion we can think ofand most people I know from the mainlandtell me that the social life here is much moreenergetic. For example our community centre58is sometimes even booked the whole weekthrough and when it’s someone’s birthdaythe whole island is invited,” says Ragnhildur.Activities in Grímsey are plentiful. Youhave the option of going sea angling, whichcan be arranged in Básar. You can spend theday bird watching as the island hosts variousspecies of birds. If in doubt as to where thebest spot is, simply ask the locals who willgladly point them out to you. Then of course,you can just explore the entire island on foot,see the church, chat with the fishermen at thepier (though not all of them speak Englishbut they’ll welcome you anyway) or drop byat the community centre and see if there is abingo game or a lottery going on.Ragnhildur says island visitors areuniformly welcomed to the island andcommonly invited to join in on whateverevents the locals are celebrating. “Welike to think of this environment asmore personal than in many crowdedpopulations. For example, I never leavemy guests unattended and I often takeguests staying at Básar for a drive aroundthe island and introduce them to our dailylives” says Ragnhildur.Básar offers 18 beds in eight differentrooms, either made up or for sleeping bags.Breakfast is available, as well as full meals ifrequested. The guesthouse is located next tothe Arctic Circle and you only have to takethree steps outside the guesthouse to cross it.From 12 th June until 20 th August, flightsdepart for Grímsey daily at 13:00 fromAkureyri. Prior to that, flights depart threetimes a week. A ferry also leaves from Dalvík at9:00 am three times a week (Mon, Wed, Fri).–EMVBásarBásum • 611 Grímsey+354 467 3103gagga@simnet.isnoneWhere Fitness Folk EatBesti bitinn’s fresh food is a hit with health-loving peopleClose to Akureyri’s walking street andthe harbour is a good location forpeople who want to get their meal quicklybut eat something fresh and healthy.Besti bitinn is well known for its fish andchips, so I decided to try, too. It surpassedwhat I’d heard about it—fresh, firm butsoft and full of flavour. My partner triedthe chicken salad and I saw why so manypeople in the health and fitness communityin Akureyri come to eat here.Healthy food and prices don’t competeOf course, some people are not soconcerned about their health but justwant to eat something that tastesgood and isn’t expensive, so the usualcarbonated drinks are also available withtheir meals. Whether they realise it ornot, though, they are eating fish freshfrom the boats that just landed or chickenthat’s never been frozen or lost its foodvalue in the cooking.A Guesthouse in the CountryThe farm at Ytra Laugaland offers an invigorating stayIn the unspoiled valley of Eyjafjörður, some12 km from Akureyri, the Ytra Laugalandfarm has been opening its doors to familiesand independent travellers for the last fiveyears. The house has large, comfortablerooms: one suite for a family and three twinbedrooms. One of the bathrooms has ajacuzzi—so relaxing after a long day out.The farm was built in 1927 and isbeautifully decorated. Owners Óttar andThe nice thing about this restaurant isthat you can sit in a friendly, comfortableatmosphere and mix and match theingredients to your own taste whenordering. We liked that and will be joiningthe regulars whenever we’re in Akureyri.–aSfBesti BitinnSkipagata 2 • 600 Akureyri+354 578 6400fiskistjarnan@internet.ison FacebookVilborg have created a cosy, family-friendlyhome. The beds have health mattressesfor a comfortable sleep and breakfasts arewholesome and healthy for a good start tothe day. There are facilities for self-cateringand there is a health-food restaurant justa minute’s drive away. Also close by is theswimming pool, less than 5 min away.A TV lounge and Internet access provideaccess to the outside world, should you needit while the farm is in a most beautiful valley,with a view clear up the fjord to the Arctic Sea.–aSfGistiheimili VilborgarYtra-Laugaland • 601 Akureyri+354 463 1472hrisey@hrisey.netwww.hrisey.netwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 59

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Trendy Seyðisfjörðura Delightful mix of old and newIn recent years, the village ofSeyðisfj örður at the far reaches of EastIceland, has become something of a trendyplace for musicians and artists. In summer,the colourful fi shing village attracts visitorsfrom all over Iceland and abroad, whocome to partake in the popular LungAArt Festival and the flourishing culturalscene, where the most recent addition isthe opening of Iceland’s first Folk HighSchool with a focus on art and personaldevelopment. While the 26 km pavedroad from Egilsstaðir to Seyðisfjörður issteep with a number of hairpin turns, theview to the fj ord is absolutely magnifi centand should not be missed. Photoopportunities abound and the immensityof the panoramic proportions will presenta challenge for even the best professionalphotographers.Where to stayHotel Aldan is a small, upscale hotel locatedin what used to be the bank of Seyðisfjörðurfor almost a century. Elegantly furnishedwith antiques imported from Denmark and60soft furnishings from India, the bedroomsare the picture of gentle relaxation in anhistorical setting. Several of the rooms boastadjoining sleeping quarters in a recessedalcove, which are sure to be a popular cosynook for children. Immaculately cleanrooms with quality linens and down duvetsadd a touch of luxury.Hotel Snæfell offers an affordable hotel optionin the town, with a total of 9 rooms in acharming timber house built in 1908. It islocated at the mouth of the Fjarðará River withviews across the fjord. Recreational highlightsinclude midnight kayaking on the fjord (insummer only), attempting the challenging‘Seven Peaks Hike’, mountain biking, seaangling and bird watching at Skálanes.Eating in SeyðisfjörðurSkaftfell Bistro is an informal artsy kind ofplace that serves possibly the best pizzas inIceland. The bistro is open all year round.Enjoy the thin crust langoustine pizza witha glass of red wine, or the rich Thai vegetablesoup with coconut cream and a plate of freshtapas. The bistro’s interior design is inspiredby the late German artist Dieter Roth andtoday serves as an artists’ residency andcultural centre. The upstairs gallery offersexhibitions by local artists.Hotel Aldan’s reception centre at thetown’s entrance also houses the highclass Hotel Alden Restaurant, featuringtraditional lamb and langoustine dishesas well as fresh fish from the fjord. Manydishes are seasoned with mountain herbs,handpicked from the mountains above thefj ord every autumn. Collected specially forthe restaurant, these fragrant flowers andherbs give Hotel Aldan’s signature dishestheir distinctive flair. The restaurant isperfect for a romantic dinner in elegantsurroundings in this beautiful town.–EMVHótel AldanNorðurgötu 2 • 710 Seyðisfirði+354 472 1277hotelaldan@simnet.iswww.hotelaldan.comOpen for dreamsHotel Bláfell relaxes your sensesTravelling East Iceland in winteris a journey with additional flair.Summer’s business has faded away; naturehas changed its colours. Mountains androads are taking a rest and silently awaitvisitors who are looking for a uniqueexperience, like the dancing NorthernLights on a clear winter’s evening.While walking the ancient paths, youwill hear nothing but the wind between thebushes and the colourful stones, as most ofthe birds have left for southern climes andthe cattle are by now in the cowsheds. Youcan hear the sound of your own breathing.The solitude creates an overwhelmingtranquility, a oneness in close connectionto the earth—and opens one’s mind tothoughts and dreams.The end of a perfect dayThere is nothing like ending such a perfectday in a cosy countryside hotel at the EastIcelandic seaside. Nothing like loungingon soft leather sofas, enjoying delicious hotchocolate in front of an open fi re, reading agood book from the library and later havingdinner made from the best local ingredientssuch as lamb or fresh-caught fi sh.Tranquility and relaxation by the baySituated on a peaceful and broad bay inthe Eastern fjords, Hotel Bláfell is bothcomfortable and charming. The old timberhouse with its eye-catching blue roof inthe middle of the small fishing town ofBreiðdalsvík impresses with its warm andwelcoming atmosphere. The cosy woodeninterior has been tastefully decoratedby owners Friðrik Arnason and his wifeHrafnhildur Hafsteinsdóttir.The hotel’s history dates back to 1982and has attracted guests who appreciate thepeaceful atmosphere with a touch of romance.For decades it has been a well-known weekendretreat just off National Road No. 1, betweenDjúpivogur and Egilsstaðir.A comfortable stayHotel Bláfell prides itself on its restaurantand its log cabin-like 34 rooms with freeWi-Fi. There are single-rooms, doubleroomsand family-rooms, all with adjoiningbathroom and TV. The rooms are brightand spacious, each with its own charmand character. When the days get shorterand colder, you want to feel at home whiletravelling—and that’s exactly what HotelBláfell is made for.Just relax in the hotel sauna after yourpromenade along the endless black beachof Breiðdalsvík or dream away in front ofthe fi replace. Refreshed and with renewedenergy, you might make your way into thesilent East Icelandic night to discover someunforgettable Northern Lights.Hótel BláfellSólvöllum 14 • 760 Breiðdalsvík+354 475 6770info@hotelblafell.iswww.hotelblafell.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 61–DT

With its nets completely full of fi sh, this herring boat comesinto the port of Neskaupstaður town, summer of 1957.Herring Town Neskaupsstaður 1963. Smoke from the fi shmealand oil factory Síldarvinnslan seen in the distance. The herring boom starting in austfi rðir fjords 1952.A Vision of theFuture Becomes RealityThe Story of Síldarvinnslan in the East fjordsThe ruins of the fi sh-meal and oil factory Síldarvinnslanafter an avalanche 20th of December 1974.In the late 19 th century, Norwegian fishermenarrived in the Eastfjords to fi sh for herring,and this is how their Icelandic counterpartslearned about the ‘silver of the sea’. There wasa certain excitement surrounding this activitydue to the fact that salted herring was able tofetch high prices on the export market. As thenew industry began to take off on the EastCoast, the process of salting cod also foundits beginnings there, fetching high pricesespecially in Southern Europe. As a result ofthese successes, people’s attitudes towardsfi shery in Iceland began to change, and moreand more were convinced that fisheries shouldbe developed into an independent industry.A Society Built on FishThe growing emphasis on fisheries also changedsociety in the East fjords. Small fishing villagessprang up between the mountainous fjordswhere the growing population made a living62mainly from fi shing and the fi shing industryand to a lesser extent, farming. The storiesof the villages are, to a degree, marked byeconomic ups and downs—sometimes fi shingwas successful, sometimes not. Prices for fi shfluctuated and the development of the industryitself, along with evolving processing methodsinfl uenced every aspect of daily life. Most ofthe ups and downs were determined by theherring itself—during the herring’s golden eraits numbers increased steadily, but suddenlythe fish disappeared without warning. ‘Herringcomes and herring goes’ is a saying in the fjords.Neskaupstaður—A Powerful Fishing TownAt the end of the 19 th century, a village aroseon the shores of Nordfjörður fjord. It was aconvenient place for setting sail and, as thenumber of fishing vessels increased, the need formanpower to process the catch also increased.By 1929, the population of village had grownto 1100 and had become an independentmunicipality known as Neskaupstaður.In 1952, a new herring era began in theEast fj ords, leading to a so-called ‘herringboom’. Fish were salted in Neskaupstaður,but in order for the town to be considereda genuine herring town, it had to buildfacilities to produce fish-meal and fish oil.In 1957, a public holding company wasfounded in order to build these facilities.‘Síldarvinnslan’, as it came to be called, wasowned by many local firms and individuals,while the fisherman’s cooperative held a 60%majority of the shares.Their vision for the company was thatSíldarvinnslan should grow and prosperand become a leading company within thefi shing sector. In 1958, Síldarvinnslan builta fish-meal and fish oil plant that processed atotal of 4,000 tons of herring. The followingyears yielded extremely good catches and in1966, approximately 107,000 tons of herringpassed through the production lines. Theactivity of the plant laid the foundation forthis powerful company in the coming years.Diversity of ProductionHowever, Síldarvinnslan’s owners did notsettle for just fi sh-meal and oil production.In 1965, the company bought two herringboats, and in 1967, two more wereadded to the fleet. In the same year thecompany began salting and freezing fish.Síldarvinnslan continued to diversify; butwhen the herring disappeared once again,it was time to develop new fields, such ascapelin fishery and deep sea fishery. Thecompany decided to sell the herring boatsand invest in modern ships suitable forcapelin and cod fishing. With the new ships,the pelagic catch grew significantly.The disaster of ‘74On 20 th December 1974, a disaster hitNeskaupstaður and Síldarvinnslan. Twoavalanches swept down the mountains abovethe town, demolishing the fish-meal plantand causing extensive damage to the freezingplant and other facilities. Twelve men losttheir lives, among them, seven workers fromSíldarvinnslan. Rebuilding started immediatelyafter the rescue operations were fi nished. Fora time, production was limited to salting, asrepairs to the freezing plant and other facilitiesmoved forward and, along with the building ofa brand new plant for fi sh-meal and oil at thenew Nordfjörður harbour, Síldarvinnslan’s newfacilities were fully operational in 1976.Leading the field in IcelandSíldarvinnslan is one of the most successfulfishing companies in Iceland today. Thecompany runs a fully equipped fi sh processingplant in Neskaupstaður and fi sh-meal and fi shoil production in Neskaupstaður, Helguvík andSeyðisfjörður. It also operates five ships—threefor pelagic fishery and two for deep sea fishing.Neskaupstaður’s and Síldarvinnslan’s storiesare linked inextricably together. It is the saga of asmall 19 th century fishing village that developedinto an industrious fishing town using thehighest technological advances available. Fromits humble beginnings, Síldarvinnslan has hada considerable influence on the development ofthe fi shing industry in Iceland, and it can berightly said that its vision from the beginninghas been fulfilled in every way.Visitors to Neskaupstaður can see many ofthe places that have contributed to the historyof the town and the maritime museum is full ofmany interesting artifacts and displays that bringNeskaupstaður’s colourful past to life.–DTwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 63

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Entranced by the EastQuality handcraft at the East Iceland CrossroadsOn the banks of East Iceland’sLagarfljót River, lies the peacefultown of Egilsstaðir. With its presentpopulation of just over two thousand,Egilsstaðir can trace its urbanizationto a farmer who laid the groundworkfor increased commerce and services byconstructing a large residential buildingthere at the start of the 20 th century.Confident in his choice of land, the farmerpredicted ‘the crossroads will be here’,which later proved true.64Magic happens at the CrossroadsThus, it was here at this historic intersectionthat the enchanting Hús Handanna Art &Design store set up shop in 2010.The gallery specialises in East Icelandicdesign and handcrafts with a wide selectionof paintings, ceramic products, quality itemsmade of reindeer skin, reindeer antlers andlocal woodwork. All are beautifully designedand crafted, and you will find that manyitems transcend the boundaries betweenmemorabilia and art.With attention on the excellence of theirproducts, Hús Handanna prides itselfon nothing but the best in a welcomingatmosphere of warmth and creativity. Theattractive interior, displays and installationshave been professionally carried out underthe supervision of local designers.Snacking on SouvenirsSouvenirs in the form of food are a relativelynew concept in Iceland. Nowadays, everyregion has its own specialities and thevariety of edible keepsakes continues togrow. Founded in 2009 with the aim ofpreserving and strengthening East Iceland´sfood heritage, Austfirskar Krásir/EastIceland Delicacies oversees the productionof local foods, and provides a platform foremerging East Icelandic artisanal foodentrepreneurs to flourish.Hús Handana features a variety of temptinglocal foods from ‘East Iceland Delicacies’range of organically grown products. Trythe wonderful savoury condiment—goldenturnip chutney with apricots and angelica,the Icelandic birch syrup or the rhubarb jam,all of which could make wonderful gifts forfriends and family back home.Fancy a snack? Grab a pack of Móðir Jörð/Mother Earth’s barley crackers and a cute littlejar of dandelion honey and you are all set.Introducing local designersBorn in 1971, Ingunn Þráinsdóttir, anoteworthy graphic designer from Egilsstaðir,established Flóra-Icelandic Design in theautumn of 2010. The idea for the companycame about after Ingunn’s stay in Vesterålen,Norway where she studied and comparedlocal plants to those of her native East Iceland.The outcome was an abundance of beautifulbotanical drawings, which soon evolved intothree dimensional textile products.A unique and beautiful mixWorking from her studio in Egilsstaðir’sCultural Center, Ingunn’s textile productsare elegantly decorated with silkscreeneddrawings of plants, both recognizable fromEast-Iceland and Vesterålen. Her line ofproducts for the home include silkscreenedcotton table napkins, kitchen towels anddecorative cushions with the same delicatedesigns carried over onto note-cards,journals and wrapping paper.Best known for her eye-catching creationof clothes hooks, Hulda Eðvaldsdóttir,was fascinated by her great-grandfather’sinventions of hooks and other utilitarianobjects made from horn. After aninspirational design course in winter2010, Hulda decided to develop her greatgrandfather’s concept further by paintinglamb horns in lively colours - with anamazing result. Sold under the nameGibba Gibb, the hooks have been exhibitedat Reykjavik’s DesignMarch 2011 and inconjunction with Iceland’s contribution tothe 2011 Frankfurt Book Fair in Germany.Every month sees a special emphasis onone particular artist of the month—as wellas the designer of the month, highlightingtheir work and often offering discounts ontheir products.An East Iceland ChristmasHús Handanna is getting ready forthe holiday season with its uniquelyIcelandic Christmas hampers. Four typesof hampers, each overflowing with allsorts of local goodies are available. A trueIcelandic Christmas dinner would not becomplete without several items that gointo the ‘East Iceland Unique’ Hamperbeautifullydecorated laufabrauð madefrom barley fl our, dried fi sh and a smokedleg of lamb or ‘hangikjöt’ which takesthe place of honour at practically everyIcelandic dinner table on the 24t h ofDecember. The ‘Brunch Hamper’ containsherring, crackers, local feta cheese, forestberry jam, paté and waffle mix. The‘Romantic Hamper’ is fi lled with dried fi shand butter, a candle and poems. Finally,the ‘Dessert Hamper’ contains wafflemix, berry syrup, serviettes, a candle anda special homemade ice cream recipe.Simple GiftsFor a truly old fashioned IcelandicChristmas, there is a simple oak Christmastree/candle holder, a fi ne handmade birchbox which is used to store laufabrauð, andalso a laufabrauð press.Laufabrauðis a deep fried,savoury fl at breadmade of flour,baking powder,milk, and butter.The dough is rolled out,paper thin and is then ornatelydecorated using a special tool tomake small v-shaped cuts that arepeeled back to form a geometricdesign.The rounds of dough are thenplunged into boiling oil or sheepfat for a few seconds until theyare crispy and golden brown.Laufabrauð is served as an accompanimentto the traditional Icelandic Christmasdinner of smoked lamb, boiled potatoes,green peas, red cabbage and sweetbéchamel sauce.A Laufabrauð PressHús Handanna is definitely a placewhere magic happens! Welcome tothe Entrance to the East!*Osnaburg is a coarse type of plain textilefabric, named for the city of Osnabrück (fromwhich it may have been fi rst imported intoEnglish-speaking countries). Originally madefrom fl ax yarns, it has been made from eitherflax, tow or jute yarns, sometimes flax ortow warp with mixed or jute weft, and oftenentirely of jute. The fi ner and better qualitiesform a kind of common sheeting, and thevarious kinds may contain from 20 to 36threads per inch and 10 to 15 picks per inch!–SP/EMVHús HandannaMiðvangur 1 • 700 Egilsstaðir+354 471 2433info@hushandanna.isOn Facebookwww.icelandictimes.com 65

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Take time for the ExtraordinarySeyðisfjörður’s autumn Coat of Many ColoursSilent, majestic, eternal. Whether you enterthe Seyðisfjörður fjord from the east byferry or drive down the serpentine Fjarðarheiðimountain pass from the west, you will beenraptured by the incomparable beauty of oneof East Iceland’s most spectacular fjords. Knownequally well for its rich cultural life as for its trulybreathtaking landscapes, Seyðisfjörður’s notableattributes embrace each other in an ethereal andunforgettable way. Lonely Planet has placed thefishing village seventh on its list of 15 Icelandicmust-see destinations.Cultural GemsLocated only 26 km from Egilsstaðir and a30 minute drive from the main Road No. 1,this storybook village with its 700 inhabitantsoffers visitors a flourishing cultural life yearround. Carefully preserved timber houses66dating back to the days of Danish rule,decorate the fjord like colourful baubles strewnacross a spectacular panorama. Live exhibitslike the sound-dome sculpture above the fjord,or the Winter 2013 exhibition of paintings byDieter Roth at the Skaftafell Art Centre couldwell be one of the high points of your stay.Did you know?For centuries, Seyðisfjörður played animportant role in the modernisation ofIceland. Not only was the harbour the mainport that connected the island with thecontinent, it also opened extensive trade routesto Europe and the rest of the world. And didyou know that Seyðisfjörður also carries thedistinction of being the first Icelandic villageto have an undersea telephone cable, as wellas the first power plant?Slow down and simply enjoyAs summer fades into autumn, Seyðisfjörðurbecomes an oasis of peace and romance withits deep blue waters and breathtaking snowcoveredmountains, inviting the traveller toslow down and enjoy its winter persona.Activities such as hiking, jeep tours andskiing are all possible. Hike the mountainsabove the fjord or contemplate the bondsof man and wilderness at the SkalanesHeritage Centre and Guesthouse in a settingthat allows you an unparalleled glimpse ofIceland’s beguiling nature.Book yourself a night or two inSeyðisfjörður’s elegant Hotel Aldan or inany one of the comfortable guesthouses toexperience Iceland in a way that the morehurried traveller misses.Evenings in Seyðisfjörður have a magicall their own; a multitude of stars in thenight sky shimmer in the quiet waters of thefjord, and the Northern Lights, should theyappear, will only be all the more spectacular,the darker the Icelandic night.There is a lot to discover at Iceland’s EastEnd. Take time for the extraordinary.SeyðisfjörðurHafnargata 44 • 710 Seyðisfjörður+354 470 2300ferdamenning@sfk.iswww.seydisfjordur.is–DTThe Mystery of Randulff’s Sea HouseMjóeyri Travel Service reveals Eskifjörður, past and presentThe saga of Randulff ’s Sea House is oneof the most unusual and remarkablestories in Iceland today. Built in 1890 by theNorwegian fi sherman Peter Randulff, thebuilding was used for landing and processingherring, as well as providing fi shermen withlodging in the upstairs quarters.After the demise of the herring erain 1930, the Sea House sat unused andabandoned for almost 90 years. When itwas fi nally opened in 2008, the interior wasfound untouched and perfectly preservedas if frozen in time. Upstairs, trousers werestill hanging on hooks, several pairs ofboots were left under the bunk beds and alarge collection of letters to loved ones onthe continent were discovered. Curiously,no Icelander had ever seen the inside of thebuilding until it was opened in 2008.Dine back in TimeMjóeyri Travel Service organises toursand events at Randulff ’s Sea House, nowoperating as a restaurant within a museum.Visitors can tour this fascinating buildingand afterwards enjoy a traditional mealwith starters such as fermented shark,dried fi sh and herring on rye bread, chasedby a shot of brennivín. The menu includesdishes made with ingredients from aroundthe fj ord. Try the reindeer sausages withrice and chili sauce or the smoked andcured reindeer with salad and blueberrysauce. Traditional fish, meat soups,and roast East Iceland lamb can also beprovided for group lunches or dinnerswith advanced booking.As a travel service, Mjóeyri offers a widevariety of activities in the area, including boatrental, reindeer watching and/or hunting,nature hikes and bird watching tours andskiing in winter. Tailor made tours accordingto your wishes, can be arranged.Iceland SparIt has been speculated that the ‘sunstone’mentioned in medieval Icelandic texts wasIceland spar and that Vikings used its lightpolarizingproperty to tell the direction of thesun on cloudy days, for navigational purposes.The mineral, known formerly as IcelandCrystal, is noteworthy for its extraordinaryproperties of double refraction, which wasstudied at length by prominent scholars suchas Christiaan Huygens and Sir Isaac Newton.Intriguing visits to Helgustaðir Cave, whereIcelandic spar was mined from the 17 th to the20 th centuries are made possible with MjóeyriTravel Service, guidance and equipmentincluded.Mjóeyri Travel’s striking summer housesstand tall against the jaw-droppinglybeautiful background of the setting sunbeyond the mountains. Owners Berglindand Sævar welcome you to spend a day, aweek, a month on the blissfully tranquilshores of Eskifjörður in East Iceland.–EMVMjóeyri GuesthouseStrandgötu 120 • 735 Eskifjörður+354 477 1247mjoeyri@vortex.iswww.mjoeyri.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 67

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Eating well in HöfnKaffi Hornið Hits the SpotKaffi Hornið in Höfn í Hornafi rði hasa friendly, laid back atmosphere thatputs you at ease the moment you walk inthe door. The Finnish wooden interiorand cosy tea lights fl ickering on each tablelend a feeling of warmth to this establishedrestaurant, which has been run by the samecouple, Ingólfur Einarsson and KristinÓladóttir since it opened 13 years ago.Making use of the celebrated ingredientsfrom the Vatnajökull region as much aspossible, Kaffi Hornið puts emphasis onthe prized langoustine for which Höfnis known. Not to be confused the NorthAmerican lobster, langoustine is also calledDublin Bay prawns, Norway lobster orscampi and imparts a more delicate fl avourand texture than their larger cousins.68Specialties of the HouseChef Ingólfur offers a variety of absolutelyfresh langoustine dishes including pastawith langoustine in a cognac-cream sauce,roasted langoustine with vegetables andgarlic sauce, grilled langoustine withsalad and even an intriguing langoustinepizza. Many of the seafood dishes comewith a fabulously crunchy Swiss röstiwhich attests to Ingólfur’s 2 years of cheftraining in Zermatt, Switzerland.A hamburger calling?In case you are homesick for a hamburger,Kaffi Hornið’s thick and juicy hamburgerswill fit the bill, easily putting others toshame. Made with 120g of pure Icelandicbeef from nearby farms, Kaffi Hornið’s everpopular signature hamburger is toppedwith mounds of melted cheese, bacon,onions and mushrooms, and comes with agenerous portion of french fries. Anotherfi lling lunch option is the legendary clubsandwich, which is popular among locals.Craving vegetablesIf somewhere along your way you didn’tget your daily dose of fresh vegetables,Kaffi Hornið offers a lunchtime soup withhomemade bread and your choice of vegetablesfrom the salad bar, available daily until 4 pm.Last, but not least, there is a fi ne selectionof homemade cakes and desserts includingorganic ice cream from the nearby Árbærdairy farm. The addition of Icelandicliquorice to many of the more ordinaryflavours like chocolate and vanilla turns thisice cream into a uniquely Icelandic dairytreat that is hard to resist.Not to be missedLocated right on the main road that passesthrough the centre of Höfn, Ingólfur andKristín welcome you to pop in for a friendlymeal whenever you are in town.–EMVKaffi HorniðHafnarbraut 42 • 780 Höfn+354 478 2600kaffihornid@eldhorn.iswww.kaffihornid.isThe Vast VatnajökullIn the Realm of the Vatnajökull GlacierThe region directly beneath theVatnajökull glacier is a 260 km long,narrow stretch of land that spans from thewest of Skaftafell National Park to the townof Höfn on its eastern border. The lives ofpeople of the region have been shaped andmoulded according to the dictates of nature,in a region which, until as recently as the1970s, was one of the most isolated parts ofIceland. The majority of its roughly 2,100inhabitants live and work in Höfn, the area’slargest population centre; the rest are onfarms scattered throughout the region.A Photographer’s DreamDriving through this enchanted area, thevastness of the glacier, with its various glacieroutlets, makes a compelling impressionon the mind. The extensive views acrossthe black sands of Skeiðarásandur towardsSkaftafellsjökull glacier leave one in awe ofthe glacier’s sheer magnitude, relentless inits crushing effect upon the land beneathit. The beautiful Svartifoss waterfall, one ofthe main attractions within the VatnajökullNational Park, is well known for itsunderlying black basalt hexagonal columns.Some impressive numbersVatnajökull is larger than all the glaciers inEurope combined, (there are smaller glaciersin Norway and Russia) and is one of thelargest glacier in the world outside of thepolar icecaps. It boasts the highest elevationin Iceland: Hvannadalshnúkur at 2,115 m or6,870 feet, as well as the lowest point belowsea level at the famous Jökulsárlón glaciallagoon-260 m at its deepest. As a nationalpark, it’s the largest in Europe.Points of interestActivities in the area are numerous-takea snowmobile, jeep or hiking tour on theglacier, cruise gently around blue-tingedicebergs on a boat ride at Jökulsárlón glaciallagoon, observe puffins at Ingólfshöfði,or get a bird’s eye view over the glacier ona sightseeing flight. What could be moremagical than basking in the midnight sun,in the warm natural hot baths at Hoffell?These are just a few of the possibilities in theVatnajökull Region.Local FestivitiesTaste some of those lovely langoustine dishesduring the annual Lobster Festival in Höfn,late in June, and don’t forget the not-to-bemissedannual fireworks extravaganza atJökulsárlón on in late August.For more in-depth information aboutVatnajökull National Park, check out thevisitors centre, a major hub for hiking andmountaineering expeditions in the area,open year round.–EMVRíki VatnajökulsLitlubrú 2 • 780 Hornafirði+354 470 8084info@visitvatnajokull.iswww.visitvatnajokull.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 69

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Sail a Fantasy WorldThe Ice Lagoon Team reveal the secrets of JökulsarlonIt’s one of the unique features of Iceland—one of those ‘must see’ spots. Locatedunder the massive Vatnajökull glacier,the lagoon is one of the world’s naturalwonders. Huge icebergs break off from thetongue flowing down from the glacier itself,plunging into the waters of the lagoon. Thesunlight shining on and through the iceproduces beautiful effects, while the multifacetedblocks of ice form shapes that arejust other-worldly.A recent natural wonderIt hasn’t always been like this. The lagoonstarted to form in 1934, and has grownsteadily larger since then as the Vatnajökullglacier began retreating and ice startedmoving slowly down towards the sea,breaking off in huge chunks in the lagoon.It is now the deepest lake in Iceland ataround 260 metres.70It’s also a photographer’s dream, presentingmany different photo opportunities to getunique shots. Since the volcanic eruptionsof 2010 and before, some of the icebergsare stained with streaks of ash. Many are sohuge that they dwarf the little Zodiac boatas it wends its way between them.It’s not just peaceful on the lagoon, thesilence is almost eerie, adding to the senseof awe. It’s not without life, however, as sealscan frequently be seen basking on a lump ofice or chasing after fish - or, quite often, justcuriously observing those strange humans intheir red jackets.Tours that win Excellence AwardsIce Lagoon–Zodiac Boat Tours has 7scheduled tours daily. Each lasts an hour andthe Ice Lagoon team takes you all the wayup to the glacier edge, about 7 km away. Thecompany focuses on personal service with amaximum of 10 passengers in each Zodiacboat and with professional guides who willpoint out the jewels and the secrets of thelagoon. This has earned them Tripadvisor’s2013 Certifi cate of Excellence. It is worthreading Tripadvisor’s reviews to see why.They have three kinds of tours: theAdventure Tour, the Evening Tour andprivate tours where you have the whole boatand the guide for yourself.Before starting a tour, one of theexperienced guides will tell you about whatyou can expect to see and will make sureyou have your floatation suits and lifejackets.The Evening Tour is remarkable as thesun is lower in the west, casting beautifulcolours over the entire area. With fewervisitors at that time, the silence is all themore profound.Jökulsarlón is easy to reach from Reykjavik,as it lies on the Ring road in the south, some78 km before the fishing town of Höfn.–aSfIce Lagoon - Zodiac Boat ToursSunnuhlíð • 781 Hornafjörður+354 860 9996info@icelagoon.comwww.icelagoon.comAt the Eastern CrossroadsEgilsstaðir Guest HouseEgilsstaðir Guest House, on the shoresof Lake Logurinn in the town ofEgilsstaðir is a remarkable old world hotelthat has been accommodating guests since1884. Eighteen renovated double rooms, allwith en suite bathroom, plus a fi ne diningrestaurant, complete with white linentablecloths and views overlooking the gardenand lake, make this a cosy and romanticchoice for an overnight stay or longer.WHAT DO YOUWANT TO DOIN EAST ICELAND?BOOK NOW ONLINE WWW.TRAVELEAST.ISA Bit of HistoryThe guest house shares sprawling estategrounds with Egilsstaðir Farm, which hasbeen operating continuously for centuries.The town of Egilstaðir grew up aroundthe farm and eventually became the siteof the major crossroads of East Iceland.Today, the farm continues its operationswith 70 cows that provide the hotel withall its dairy products, such as milk, skyr,yogurt and cheese, as well as some of thehighest quality beef products in Iceland.The kitchen is overseen by HuldaDanielsdóttir who is fast gaining areputation for her creative cookingskills and blending of traditional andprogressive cuisine, sourcing most of theingredients either locally or from aroundEast Iceland.The restaurant prides itself on its beeftenderloin from Egilsstaðir Farm as wellas its delectable handmade ice creamand sorbets, both of which come highlyrecommended.–EMVEgilsstaðir Guesthouse700 Egilsstaðir+354 471 1114egilsstadir@egilsstadir.iswww.egilsstadir.com- taste the magicGo to www.traveleast.is and book your dream tour online.Follow us on facebook www.facebook.com/traveleasticeland.Post—HostelPost-Hostel offers sixcomfortable roomsincluding access to afully equipped kitchenin addition to washingmachine, clothes dryer andfree wireless Internet.Hafnargata 4 • 710 Seyðisfjörður+354 422 7922info@posthostel.comwww.posthostel.comwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 71

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 201372On Top ofBed down for the night in theheart of the Vatnajökull districtat Vagnsstaðir Youth Hostel, just28 km east of the Jökulsárlónglacier lagoon. Sleeping bagaccommodation, linen rental,a well equipped kitchen, diningand lounge areas, as well as3 fully equipped cottages areoffered. There is a campgroundwith good sanitary facilities.The coast, just 1500 m fromVagnsstaðir provides numerouspossibilities for scenic walks andbird watching. Maps of the areaare available at the hostel.the Worlda timid soul’s approach to the mighty VatnajökullThe weather report was looking good—afull day of sunshine ahead of me andtemperatures above 10°C. I was on my way toa face to face encounter with the world’s thirdlargest glacier, the mighty Vatnajökull. Thistrip would mark a couple of firsts for me—myfirst time ever to set foot on a glacier, and myfi rst time to travel by snowmobile. Needlessto say I was really excited!I first met Kristján and Bjarney, of GlacierJeeps, at our pre-arranged meeting place: thecrossroads of Route No.1 and F985. Thisis the offi cial meeting place for all GlacierJeep summer tours. Glacier Jeeps has yearsof experience conducting jeep, snowmobileand hiking tours on the glacier since 1994.(Bjarney has been helping run the familybusiness since she was 14 years old.) I parkedmy car and joined them in their sturdy 4WDwhich wound its way slowly ever upwards,following the undulating gravel road, whichtwisted and turned around hairpin bends,past waterfalls and deep canyons. My guidesfill me in on the details of the landscape,pointing out how the glacier has crawledacross the terrain, devastating everything inits path along with other interesting facts.Thirty minutes and 830 metres above sealevel later, we arrive at Jöklasel, Iceland’shighest restaurant and owned by GlacierJeeps. Jöklasel will serve as our base campwhere we suit up with boots, warm overallsand helmets for the snowmobile excursion.Now it’s time to test drive the snowmobiles.I am a little hesitant at first and Kristján showsme the ropes. It looks easy enough but I decidethat I prefer to let him drive over the glacierwith me sitting safely behind him on this‘skidoo for two’, at least until I get a better feelfor it. ‘Off we go over the wild white yonder,climbing high into the sun’ to paraphrase anold song, with cloudless blue skies above usand the wind in our faces. Further along westop and dismount, to take in the magnificentpanoramic views over the glacier, the AtlanticOcean and the town of Höfn far below in thedistance. I felt like I was on top of the worldand it was truly a cause for celebration!Kristján jokes that we cannot go onwardsunless I drive. By now I am feeling a littlemore sure of myself and agree to give it atry. This time we are off to inspect a massivesheer rock face that rises straight up from theglacier at an elevation of 1200 metres. Finally,our one hour snowmobile adventure comes toan end and it is time to return to Jöklasel fora well deserved bite to eat and a hot drink.The view out the restaurant windows is as onewould expect: magnificent.Glacier Jeeps also offers a hiking tour of theglacier that comes with all the equipment suchas safety helmets, climbing irons and ice axe,instruction and a guide, included in the price.In case you just don’t think a strenuoushike or a thrilling snowmobile adventureis for you, then Glacier Jeeps offers analternative to see the glacier in a comfortable,specially equipped 4WD and is available yearround, weather permitting. Each tour is only3 to 4 hours in total, giving you plenty of timeto do other things with your day, even thoughonce you are up there you may not want tocome down. Although it’s best to book oneday in advance, you can also just show upat the crossroads (F985) at either 9.30 am or2.00 pm and join the tour from there.Vatnajökull Glacier Jeep tours: amust for your bucket list!Glacier JeepsSilfurbraut 15 • 780 Hornafjörður+354 478 1000glacierjeeps@simnet.iswww.glacierjeeps.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 73–EMV

Hospitality is what we do bestHotel Skaftafell in freysnes, South IcelandOne of Iceland‘s most beloved countryhotels nestles in the foothills ofIceland’s highest mountain and Europe’slargest national park. Owner Anna MaríaRagnarsdóttir, whose family has lived inthe area for over 700 years, founded HotelSkaftafell in Freysnes in southeast Icelandin 1989. “We recognised the potentialfor this region and took a chance on acareer in tourism,” she says. “We’re 7minutes by car from Vatnajökull NationalPark’s visitor centre in Skaftafell, and 40minutes from Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.The petrol station, mini-market, andrestaurant across the road from the hotelalso belong to the family.”74Humble beginningsAccommodation with private facilitieswas rather uncommon in the countrysidein Iceland in the 80’s and non-existentin the Skaftafell area. “In the first yearwe rented out rooms in our own houseto travellers,” says Anna thoughtfully—obviously reminiscing the past. “Atrend towards accommodation withprivate facilities was developing at thetime. We received some good adviceand encouragement from people in theknow, who recommended that we includeprivate facilities in the rooms. As a result,we decided to open a hotel rather thansticking to the guesthouse concept.”Although the present hotel was startedby Anna and her husband back in 1989,her career in the tourism service industrybegan at age 13. “I got a job at theSkaftafell Co-Op store and petrol stationon the 13 th of July, 1974. I remember theday very clearly because it was the daybefore the last and longest of the threebridges that cross Skeiðarársandur wascompleted and the ring road aroundIceland was offi cially opened.”Hospitality is what she does best,says the author of this article, who hasstayed in Hótel Skaftafell several timesover the past 15 years and can vouchfor Anna’s friendly and service mindedattitude. “Besides, back when we startedin the hotel business” says Anna, “tourismseemed to be the only viable option forself-employment here. The alternativeswould have been to farm mink and foxfor their pelts, or to get into fish farming.In hindsight, we made the right decisionbecause both pelt and fish farmers havestruggled right from the start.”Contrary to popular belief, the peoplein this region were not isolated. “Visitorshave passed through this district eversince the Settlement,” says Anna. “Therivers were forded on horseback and wehad a pony postal service for a long timebefore the arrival of motorized vehiclesand the Ring Road.”The petrol station, mini-market andrestaurant across the road are a favouritestop with truckers and tourists headingfor the national park or the glacier lagoon.The restaurant serves hot, home-style foodat lunch and dinner, and grilled fare isavailable the rest of the day.Tallest mountain and largest glacierThe Skaftafell region in southeast Iceland isperhaps the most beautiful part of the country.Vatnajökull National Park was established in2008—the largest in Europe. “What makesthis area so special is the contrast between thewhite glaciers and the black volcanic sand,”says Anna, who obviously and not surprisingly,loves the place where she was born. However,she is not the only one who is passionate aboutthe scenery. It has been featured in Hollywoodfi lms—Batman Begins, Laura Croft’s TombRaider and James Bond’s Die Another Dayand With a View to a Kill—to name but a few.Several of the main attractions aroundSkaftafell can be seen from the comfort ofone’s car, including Vatnajökull Glacier andJökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. The spectacularglacier covers about 8 per cent of Iceland andis the largest in Europe.Jökulsárlón is one of the most popularplaces to visit along the ring road becauseof its scenic beauty. Melting icebergs invarious shapes, sizes and colours floattowards the bridge which spans thenarrow outlet from the lagoon. “Visitorsfrom all corners of the globe are drawnto this place and for good reason,” saysAnna. “The combination of a calvingglacier, icebergs, a lagoon, black sandbeaches and the Atlantic Ocean, with aview of the highest peak in Iceland in everchanging light conditions is numberedamong some of the most impressivelandscapes in the world.”–SHVHótel SkaftafellFreysnesi • 785 Öræfum+354 478 1945freysnes@gmail.comwww.hotelskaftafell.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 75

VATNAJÖKULSÞJÓÐGARÐURNATIONAL PARKWe are proud to welcome youto Vatnajökull National Park!Vatnajökull National Park is Iceland’s newest protected area, established in 2008.With a total area of roughly 13,200 km 2 it is by far the largest national parkin Iceland as well as in Western Europe.©Guðmundur ÖgmundssonSvartifossDettifoss©Guðmundur ÖgmundssonKey features of the park are the ice cap of the Vatnajökull Glacier(8,200 km 2 ) and several highly active volcanic systems withinand outside the ice cap. The interplay of ice and fire is the singlemost important force in shaping the nature of the park.As a result, one can find in one place an unparalleled rangeof volcanic-, geothermal- and other landscape features.We offer information at our three Visitor Centres, Gljúfrastofa,Snæfellsstofa and Skaftafellsstofa. Information Centres aresituated at Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn.More information at our website www.vjp.isÍsafjörðurSauðárkrókurAkureyriHúsavíkGLJÚFRASTOFAÁsbyrgiHljóðaklettarDettifossEgilsstaðirSNÆFELLSSTOFAGljúfrastofa©Regína Hreinsdóttir © Skarphéðinn G. ÞórissonHiking Geldingafell, Snæfell in the distanceLangisjórMorsárdalur©Guðmundur ÖgmundssonSnæfellsnesAskjaKverkfjöllSnæfellSnæfellsstofaHöfn©Ragnar Th. SigurðssonKeflavíkAirportReykjavíkSkaftafellEldgjá JökulsárlónLakiKirkjubæjar-SKAFTAFELLSSTOFAklausturVíkSkaftafellsstofaAskja and Lake Öskjuvatn©Einar Ragnar SigurðssonFor more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.isPORT hönnun

HRÍFUNES GUESTHOUSECosy accommodation in South IcelandA romantic guesthouse with personal style and a unique atmosphere880 Kirkjubaejarklaustur • Tel. +354 863 5540info@hrifunesguesthouse.is • www.hrifunesguesthouse.isJourneying Iceland’s South CoastHotel Katla offers the chance to enjoy the different seasons in styleIf escaping the crowds is on your agendathis year, Iceland in winter is ideal forthose looking to recharge one’s batteries ina place of peace and solitude. The flocks ofmigrating birds and the crowds of touristsare gone and a fine cloak of silence onceagain descends upon the land. Here on theoutskirts of Vik, Hotel Katla settles into themore leisurely pace of its winter routine.Having recently undergone a welcomename change from Hotel Höfðabrekka tothe more pronounceable Hotel Katla, thisfamily run hotel was for many years a propersheep and horse farm and just happenedto rent out a couple of spare bedrooms totravellers back in 1989. As tourism began toincrease, many more rooms and amenitieswere added, such as underfl oor heating bythe hotel’s own private source of geothermalwater, discovered on the property in 2003.A brand new, large hot tub and sauna wereinstalled in the summer of 2013 and thereis even a playground for the kids as well asseveral private ponds where you can try yourhand at catching a fresh Arctic char (trout)for dinner.Set on spacious grounds with views to theAtlantic Ocean, the hotel boasts 62 standardrooms and 10 tastefully appointed superiorrooms in the brand new wing, all with privatebath. Be sure to make use of the hotel-widewi-fi or take some time to relax in the hottub, enjoying the sunset or the NorthernLights, should they just happen to appearduring your stay. The cosy bar/restaurant,which is also open to the general public, canseat upwards of 200 guests and serves a buffetbreakfast, as well as lunch and dinner.Hotel Katla is a great place for a stopoveron your journey along the south coast.Besides all the well documented attractionsin and around Vik, don’t overlook theenchanting Þakgil Canyon which has servedas the backdrop for many a movie, includingGame of Thrones in 2010 and Beowulf andGrendel in 2004.–EMVHotel KatlaHöfðabrekku • 871 Vík+354 487 1208info@hotelkatla.iswww.hotelkatla.iswww.icelandictimes.com 79

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013No Ash – Just Beautiful CampingHike in the freedom of the mountains in comfortCamping in Iceland? Are you joking?Isn’t it freezing? What about thevolcanoes and all that ash? Þakgil CampSite is a popular spot for Icelanders who lovebeauty and enjoy the hiking in the area. Doyou really think they would go there in suchnumbers if it were covered in ash?Set at the base of a spectacular canyonwith a beautiful river running through it,there is no ash here. A climb to the top ofone of the surrounding mountains off ersRefreshing VíkHalldór’s Café satisfi es locals and travellers alikeGuests at Halldór’s Café are greeted bythe scent of steaming soup and freshlybaked bread as they walk through the door.Across from Vík’s shoreline with its blacksand beaches, Halldór’s Café serves disheslike soup of the day or salads with tuna,chicken or just feta, along with bigger mealsof fish, lamb or chicken. Deserts includehome-baked cakes and ice cream from a local80a view of range after range waiting to beconquered, green expanses contrasting withcraggy rocks and sparkling waterfalls.There is plenty of room to breathehere. You can bring a tent, a camper orcaravan or, if you prefer, stay in one of thesummerhouses. All the normal facilitiesare available. It‘s nice to know that, aftera day’s hike, you can take a refreshingshower before grilling your dinner as thesun slips behind the mountains.farm. Originally, Halldór’s Café was a generalstore, built in 1831 to meet all of the needsof Vík. Today, it continues to satisfy patronswith its menu which has something for everytaste, with a local produce, where possible.Halldór’s Café supports artists with arotating display of local talent featured on itswalls, and serves up steaming cups of coffeeand cake, ideal for meeting and greetingIf you enjoy the freedom of themountains, this camp site is the perfectplace to base from.–aSfÞakgil CampgroundHöfðabrekkuafrétti • 870 Vík+354 893 4889helga@thakgil.iswww.thakgil.isold friends or new acquaintances. Halldór’sCafé is open all year round. Its hours are11:00 to 22:00 or 23:00, but Fridays andSaturdays can turn into late nights, with thecafe remaining open until 1:00 am with itsfully stocked bar providing a late night placeto grab a drink.–KBHalldórskaffiVíkurbraut 28 • 870 Vík+354 847 8844halldorskaffi@gmail.comwww.halldorskaffi.isThe Surround-Sounds of Silenceat Hotel DyrholaeyThere is a saying that goes somethinglike, ‘When you have such a greatview, who needs pictures on your walls?’and that was my feeling as I arrived atthe top of the hill where Hotel Dyrhólaeyis located, directly across from the Bay ofDyrhólaey. To my left, a dusting of newlyfallen snow covered the Reynisfj alla ridgewhich suddenly took on new proportions,now looking decidedly more imposingand grand than from the ring road, myusual vantage point. Down below, fields ofcultivated grass stretch out before me untilthey reach the blue expanse of water thatforms the shallow bay that reaches across tothe Dyrhólaey promontory in the distance.I feel like I could stay here all day, drinkingin the fresh air and the outrageously sublimeview.The HotelThis family owned and operated hotel has88 fully equipped standard rooms, spreadout along 3 wings that branch off from thespacious lobby and enormous dining room,that are at the hotel’s core.Hotel Dyrhólaey’s owners grew up hereamidst all this splendour, and the familycan trace it roots back to the 19 th centurywhen their great, great grandparents beganthe business of dairy farming and sheepbreeding all those many years ago. AsIcelandic society gradually evolved from anagrarian society to a more modern one, theneed for dedicated hotels became apparentat this juncture in time when tourismin Iceland was in its infancy. The familydecided to go for it and the hotel was born.Th e B a r / R e s t a u r a n tA full bar and and an á la carte restaurantopens for guests in the evening in the diningroom that overlooks that wide panoramicview that welcomed you on your arrival.Now is your chance to enjoy a meal underthe blanket of stars in winter, or if you arelucky, accompanied by a lilting display ofwaltzing Northern Lights.Wake up to the smell of fresh coffee; ahot English breakfast of eggs and toast, ora steaming bowl of oat porridge—just theticket to start your day of sightseeing off right.If you are after that special moment intime where mountains, sea and sky meet,enveloped by the surround-sound of silence,drive up to Hotel Dyrhólaey just off the ringroad and let the magic begin.–EMVHotel DyrholaeyBrekkur • 871 Vík+354 487 1333dyrholaey@islandia.iswww.dyrholaey.iswww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 81

GLACIERS,BLACK SANDBEACHES &PUFFINSMýrdalur region South IcelandVolcanoes, glaciers and black sandbeaches characterise Iceland’s southcoast in the area near the small village of Víkin Mýrdalur. Vík is about two hour’s drivefrom Reykjavik (184 km) along Iceland’sRing road and nestles on the foothills of theinfamous sub-glacial Katla caldera whichlast erupted in 1918.The area is truly beautiful and boastssome of Iceland’s most amazing black sandbeaches, sea stacks and an island with anarchway which is populated by puffinsduring the nesting season in summer.Activities and sightseeing for all seasonsBlessed with relatively mild weather allyear round, the south of Iceland is ideal forsightseeing and all sorts of outdoor activitiesboth in summer and winter. The area isusually first to turn green in spring andstays green the longest in the fall due to itssoutherly location, proximity to the AtlanticOcean and prevailing wind direction. Thearea hardly ever cut off by snow even in themiddle of winter.Summer activities include hiking, golfi ngand bird watching. Glacier ice-walks, iceclimbing,snowmobiling, super jeep safarisin modified 4x4s, and ATV-tours areavailable all year and the northern lights inwinter are amazing.Vík – the village with the short nameVík village has a population of 300. Vík,the name, actually means bay in Englishand is named after the small bay where itstands. It is the only village along the coastof Iceland which doesn’t have a harbour ofsome sort, the reason being, of course, thatit would be impractical to attempt to builda harbour along the black sand beach whichis shifted every day by the powerful waves ofthe Atlantic Ocean.Reynisdrangar sea stacks are the majorlandmark of Vík. They can be viewed,filmed and photographed from variousvantage points along the beach, from thevillage and from the steep sea cliff above.Commercials, television series and motionpictures are regularly fi lmed in the area dueto its unique scenic beauty and accessibility.Kötlusetur Tourist Information, Researchand Cultural Centre in Vík has friendlystaff who are happy to assist independenttravellers find accommodation, activities andsightseeing spots in the area. A permanentexhibition displays the challenges for thelocal people living in such close proximity toa harbourless beach and the Katla volcano.Kötlusetur also offers a one hour walkingtour around the village in summer called‘Meeting the Locals’. Participants areshown how to catch puffi ns and fulmars.The tour ends with a visit to a gallery, whereguests get to know a local glass-artist andher work.Other activities in and near Vík includegolfi ng, bird watching, hiking, ice-walking,snowmobiling and swimming in the localgeothermal pool.Accommodation offers in Vík andsurroundings include; youth hostel,guesthouses, farm hotels and a four star hotel.Fire, ice and black sand beachesThe area near Vík is blessed with some ofthe most amazing scenery in the worldsuch as Víkurfjara black volcanic beach,Sólheimajökull valley glacier, Mýrdalsjökullice cap, and Dyrhólaey Island with itsimpressive arch and puffin colony in summer.Walk along Víkurfjara beach at sunset,walk with a guide on Sólheimajökull valleyglacier, view puffi ns and a natural arch onDyrhólaey island.Attractions in the Vík area are generallyaccessible all year and open for business. Thecombination and interplay between brownand black volcanic mountains, black basaltsand beaches, white glaciers and green grassin summer make this part of Iceland one ofthe most outstanding places to visit.VisitvíkVíkurbraut 28 • 780 Vík+354 487 1395info@vik.iswww.visitvik.is–SHV

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013The Old Cowhouse RestaurantSitting Pretty on Iceland’s South CoastLocation wise, The Old CowhouseRestaurant couldn’t be in a moreperfect position for feasting your eyesupwards to the misty, craggy, moss-coveredpeaks of Eyjafjallajökull. It’s a welcomeaddition to Iceland’s ever-growing list ofnew amenities that have been popping upall over the country.The remodelled former barn easily seats50 to 60 dinner guests while retaining itsunpretentious character and sweet bovinesimplicity, making this a thoroughlyenjoyable place to stop for lunch or dinnerwhile travelling the south coast.The menu boasts grass-fed beef, as is thenorm in Iceland, coming straight fromrestaurant’s own cattle herds. A hearty andwarming meat soup, called Volcano Soup,served with homemade bread, is a favourite.Open year-round, the Old Cowhouseplans monthly events including an Octoberevening of traditional food, a Novemberevening of game (reindeer and geese), aDecember buffet of traditional Christmasdishes, as well as musical evenings ofIcelandic folk music at various timesthroughout the year.For opening hours in winter, pleasecontact The Old Cowhouse Restaurantdirectly. Large and small groups welcome.–EMVGamla FjósiðHvassafell • 860 Hvolsvelli+354 487 7788oldcowhouse@gmail.comfacebook.com/oldcowhouseAn Idyllic Stayfagrilundur Bed & Breakfast In the heart of the Golden CircleTravelling around the Golden Circle, youpass through the village of Reykholt,known primarily for its horticultural farmingusing geothermal energy.Surrounded by trees, fl owers and lawns,the newly-opened Fagrilundur Bed &Breakfast (formerly Kaffi Klettur), is right inthe centre of the village. The lovely woodenchalet-style guesthouse is cosy, warm andinviting. Inside, several well-chosen Dutchantiques decorate the walls of the breakfastroom, and the lace curtains in the windowsadd to the rustic charm.Fagrilundur comprises 6 bedrooms.Upstairs, there are two large bedroomsthat each sleep up to 4 people, with theirown attached bathroom. On the groundfl oor, there are 4 smaller bedrooms thatsleep 1 or 2 each, with shared bath.Bathrooms are all well-appointed withbrand new modern fi ttings, comfortablehot showers, hair dryers, etc.Breakfast to the songs of birdsYou wake to birds singing in the trees, thearoma of freshly made waffles and steaminghot coffee. You can have your breakfast on thebroad wooden patio overlooking the garden,or inside in the breakfast room, as you wish!Reykholt offers a fine swimming pool, visitsto the geothermal greenhouses, a small grocerystore, ‘Café Mika’ Restaurant all close by.–EMV/aSfFagrilundur guesthouseSkólabraut 1, Reykholt • 801 Selfoss+354 486 8701info@fagrilundur.iswww.fagrilundur.isÁsólfsskáli Farm HolidaysLiving under Eyjafjallajökull VolcanoIt’s one of those places that is easyto miss if you are rushing along thering road on Iceland’s majestic southcoast. Sharing the peaceful location justbelow Eyjafjallajökull with a handful ofother farms, Ásólfsskáli Farm seems tomagically come into focus in a way thatyou might not expect.It won the 2011 award for being themost beautiful farm in Rangárthing-eystra84county and the honour is wholly fitting forthis neat and tidy dairy farm that openedits doors to travellers in 1991.There are two self-contained cottagesthat can sleep up to 6 people each andthat come complete with a jacuzzi andgas barbecue, making it an ideal retreatin a picture post-card perfect setting.Visitors are welcome to watch themilking of Ásólfsskáli’s 50 cows, hikethe foothills along marked trails or visitthe picturesque 19 th century Ásólfsskálichurch that presides over the landscape.ÁsólfsskáliÁsólfsskála • 861 Hvolsvelli+354 487 8989asolfsskali@simnet.iswww.asolfsskali.is–EMVRaised on ChocolateCafé Mika’s chocolates have a past, present and futureMika was born and raised on chocolate.It flows in his blood and comes out inthe most delicious delicacies—pralines so full ofrich flavour that they never seem to last. They’reswiftly devoured by all who come in contactwith them and it takes the strongest soul toactually make it home with them intact.Café Mika is becoming a popular place tostop when taking the Golden Circle tour asit’s found in Reykholt, not far from Geysir,making it a nice break on your trip. But it’snot just the pralines that are attracting visitors,as Mika has a menu that has your taste budswatering just reading it over.For those interested in a snack, the rich hotchocolate drink, made fresh from beans sourcedfrom all over the world, topped with whippedcream is stiff competition for traditional coffee.For me, enjoying a meal at Mika’s is alwaysworth the time. He takes traditional mealsand adds that extra touch that makes themmemorable. This summer, he is introducinga wood-burning pizza oven, a Big Green Egggrill for pizza, grills and smoking meats andfish and an ice cream maker to make his ownspecialities. See reactions on TripAdvisorand you’ll make it a point to stop by.–aSfCafé MikaSkólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt+354 896 6450mikaehf@simnet.ison Facebookwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 85

GK CeramicsIceland HandmadeGK Ceramics is an open pottery and ceramics workshop closeto Sandgerði harbour where you can see the artist at workand buy beautiful handmade pottery direct from the potter.Vitatorg 13 • 245 Sandgerði +354 893 8812ggk@btnet.ison facebookAviation services in the ArcticScheduled flight service to Constable Point / Nerlerit InaatCharter flightsMedevac service with medical staffSurvey flightsComplete logistical serviceswww.norlandair.isTel: +354 414 6960, email: norlandair@norlandair.isFolk Museum in EyrarbakkiThe Southcoast MuseumÁrnessýsla folk museum is the historical home that the Danish merchants built in 1765,called Húsið, the House. Húsið is one of the oldest houses in Iceland and a beautifulmonument of Eyrarbakki’s time as the biggest trading centre on the south coast.Today, one can enjoy exhibitions about the story and culture of the region. Afamous piano, a shawl made out of human hair and the king’s pot, are amongitems on view. Húsið prides itself on its warm and homelike atmosphere.Address:“The House” 820 EyrarbakkiTel: +354 483 1504 & +354 483 1082e-mail: husid@husid.com • www.husid.comOpening hours:Summer: May 15th - September 15thdaily 11.00-18.00 or by agreementWinter: By agreementA Taste of Iceland’s Wild & SweetLaugarvatn’s Lindin Restaurant & Café BistroLindin Restaurant & Bistro Café, locatedon the banks of Lake Laugarvatn, has afi rm foundation of culinary excellence thatattracts patrons from around the world.Owner, Baldur Öxdal Halldórsson, pastryand master chef, trained at the Hotel andRestaurant School of Iceland. But it wasbetween 1980–1984, as he received trainingas a pastry chef at the Culinary Instituteof America, New York and worked withtwo pastry chefs at the Palio restaurant inManhatten that he got his inspiration tospecialise in chocolate and desserts that,in 1986–1987, led him to the prestigiousRichemont Professional School in Lucernefrom 1988–1989, where he developed hisinterest in the art of chocolate and learntthe secrets behind a great dessert.After his training abroad was completed,Baldur began something of a culinaryrevolution in Reykjavik, working at manyof the top hotels and restaurants, creatingspectacular and sophisticated desserts thatwere hitherto unknown in the capital.Mecca of Icelandic Wild GameBaldur took over Lindin Restaurant in 2002which has become known as the ‘Mecca ofIcelandic wild game’, with its lamb, fish,seafood and game caught in the wild. Hismenu is seasonal and features exotic dishesthat can be made from reindeer, goose,duck, cormorant, guillemot, puffi n, minkewhale or pan-fried arctic char. Always on thecutting edge, you can be sure of finding newand exciting additions to his dessert menussuch as his delectable chocolate mousse withraspberry sauce, with watermelon pieces andwhite chocolate foam and his skyr moussewith crow berries and rhubarb.Passion for purity and freshnessPassionate about food, Baldur insists onthe absolute purity and freshness of all hisingredients. Located in the heart of Iceland’s‘greenhouse belt’, he can take his pick of thechoicest fruits and vegetables grown in thearea year round. The restaurant even hasits own small kitchen garden, providing afresh supply of rhubarb, chervil, red andblackcurrants. The lamb and venison comefrom N.E. Iceland and are known for theirdelicious flavour, fed on mountain herbs.The Arctic char are caught fresh from eitherLake Þingvellir or Lake Apavatn daily.In the heart of the Golden CircleLindin is located in the village of Laugarvatn,right beside the lovely natural sauna, steambaths and pool at the Fontana Spa. The45 minute scenic drive from Reykjaviktakes you through enchanting landscapes.Laugarvatn is half-way between Þingvellirand Geysir and Gullfoss, making it anexcellent choice for a day trip to in one of themost scenic areas of Iceland. You can alsonow stay at any time of year in Laugarvatnat either the Golden Circle Apartments nextto Lindin, the Gallerí Guesthouse or thevillage hostel to enjoy the Northern Lightsin winter and the midnight sun in summerand the spectacular views from Lindin’sterrace and garden across the lake to theHekla and Eyjafjallajökull volcanoes.–EMV/aSfLindin RestaurantLindarbraut 2 • 840 Laugarvatni+354 486 1262lindin@laugarvatn.iswww.laugarvatn.iswww.icelandictimes.com 87

Reykjavik’s Frozen Playgroundan opportunity to experience a glacier fi rst-handLangjökull glacier is at Reykjavik’sdoorstep only 2-3 hours north westof the capital city by road. It is a fantasticwinter wonderland which is accessible fromReykjavik all year round when using theright equipment. Several tour operators offertrips to the glacier throughout the year.Langjökull is the second largest glacierin Iceland after Vatnajökull glacier andcovers nearly one per cent of the country‘ssurface or 950 km². Its highest point reaches1450 m above sea level. The glacier is quitethin in places, only 100-200 m, but itsaverage thickness is 220 m and its maximumthickness is 700 m.The name Langjökull is most likelyinspired by the fact that the glacier is fairlylong (55 km) but narrow (15 km) hencethe English translation of the word whichmeans ‘long glacier’. Lengthwise, it lies in asouth-west to north-east direction just likethe active volcanic belt in Iceland. Scientistsforecast that Langjökull glacier, and in factevery single glacier in Iceland, will melt anddisappear within the next one hundred yearsdue to climate change.Most visitors to Iceland visit at least someof the attractions near Langjökull glacier,like Geysir geothermal area and Gullfosswaterfall (Golden waterfall). The glaciercan be seen from the south on a reasonablyclear day from the 10 km long road betweenGullfoss waterfall and Geysir geothermalarea. Jarlhettur (934 m) is a jagged palagonitevolcanic ridge, formed in a sub-glacialfissure eruption. It stands right in front ofthe icecap on the south side and frames itnicely. Looking at Jarlhettur ridge from theroad between Gullfoss waterfall and Geysirgeothermal areas, it looks like a crown or acoronet of sorts which most likely inspiredits name; jarl meaning earl or chieftain, andhettur meaning headwear.valley. The most famous hot spring in thatregion is Deildartunguhver which is alsoEurope‘s most prolific hot spring. Thenfinally, melt water flows into the Hvítá Lake(White lake) to the east of the glacier. Fromthere it turns into the Hvítá River (Whiteriver) which plunges down two cascades, 11m and 21 m, at the Gullfoss waterfall.Volcanic ActivityAt least two volcanic systems exist underLangjökull glacier—on the south side and thenorth side. The area is quite volcanically activebut written accounts of volcanic eruptions inand around Langjökull do not exist, excepton Hallmundarhraun lava field. This lavafield dates back to the early 10 th century andflowed 50 km from its source on the westernside of the glacier in a westerly direction toHvítársíða. The greatest tubular lava cavesystems in Iceland are found in this lavafield; Stefánshellir, Víðgelmir and Surtshellir.Hallmundarhraun lava field is named afterHallmundur who was a character in theIcelandic saga, Grettissaga.When the next volcanic eruption will takeplace in the area is anyone’s guess but it caneasily be within our lifetime.Frozen PlaygroundLangjökull is one of Iceland’s favouritewinter sport playgrounds and it is accessibleall year when using the right equipment.Generally speaking, the two mountainroutes to the glacier are accessible by regularvehicles in the months of July and August.These routes are Uxahryggjavegur (F52) onthe western side, and Kjalvegur (F35) onthe eastern side. During other months ofthe year, the glacier is usually inaccessible toregular vehicles. This is when the so-calledSuper jeeps come into their own.Tours typically start in Reykjavik and headout either to the east or to the west of the glacier.A tour to the west usually includes a visit toattractions such as Reykholt cultural centre,the Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls, andDeildartunguhver hot spring. Attractions eastof the glacier include sites such as Þingvellirnational park, the world renowned Geysirgeothermal area with its spouting hot spring,Strokkur, and Gullfoss waterfall.Northern Lights From a DifferentPerspectiveFor the very first time, there is a scheduledtour option from Reykjavik to the glacier withthe idea of searching for the Northern Lights.Reykjavik Excursions offers an eight and a halfhour ‘Glacier & Monster Truck AdventureTour’. Participants are driven from Reykjavikin a regular tour bus but switch to a one-of-akind8x8 monster truck along the way, whichbrings them onto the Langjökull glacier.Guests have the opportunity to learn about theNorthern lights, the glacier itself, the natureand some local stories. A stop at a nearby farmprovides guests with the opportunity to enjoyoptional light refreshments, coffee, and localfarm style icecream.–SHVImages by © Jóhann Smári88Source of Crystal-clear WaterThe south west of Iceland would simply notbe the same without Langjökull glacier. Meltwater from the glacier travels via subterraneanchannels into Lake Þingvallavatn about50 km to the south west. Lake Þingvallavatnis Iceland’s largest natural inland lake andcontains an incredible amount of fresh clearand clean water. Melt water also fl ows in awesterly direction via subterranean channelsto the geothermal areas in Borgarfjörðurwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 89

Greenland – the Arctic’s Promised LandThe Gateway to Wilderness of the NorthFor thousands of years, Greenlandhas attracted nomad settlers withits numerous fertile fjords and abundantseafood. Most of these nomads crossed thearctic ice cap from Alaska and settled on thewest coast of the world’s largest island. Thefi rst western immigrants arrived in 982 ADwith the outcast Eric the Red and his peoplefrom Iceland. He and his descendantscreated an independent Viking communitythat lasted until 1450. The disappearanceof Greenland’s Vikings is still a mysteryto historians. Silent remnants are all thatremain of a forgotten era, leaving us toponder the power of nature over man.Destructive BeautyNature seems untamed in Greenland.Anything man can achieve is easily destroyedby the frost, storms and melting water.Greenland’s remote beauty is overwhelming;relentlessly demanding respect from all whodare to challenge it. The Inuit learned toadapt to the harsh wilderness and surviveby humbly becoming part of it. Walking in90their footsteps and following their exampleis the safest way to discover this strangeworld.Whale and seal meat was the ‘gold’ of the17 th and 18 th centuries when Scandinavianhunters arrived and began to trade withthe native Inuit. Still a source of incomefor many today, Greenlanders depend onthe use of dog sleds, kayaks and traditionalhunting weapons to continue to providetheir basic foods.Tradition Meets the PresentGreenland’s southern coast benefits from amild climate and thus has provided man withberries, herbs and enough food for the sheepthat have been bred there since the beginningof the 20 th century. A diet of aromatic tundragrasses ensure that Greenland’s lamb meatneeds no additional spicing.Everything in this country seems to bepure, yet exotic at the same time. Eventhe bustling capital, Nuuk, presents itselfas a surprisingly modern town with allthe comforts of a contemporary city and awell-developed tourist sector that spans theentire country. A population of only 57,000inhabitants live on this huge island with itsendless coastline, connecting tradition withmodernity. Art, music and fashion play animportant role on this vast continent whichhas found its own unique style.Venturing northwards from Nuuk, thesurrounding vegetation becomes noticeablysparse, compelling inhabitants to preservetheir traditional nomadic lifestyle byhunting reindeer, musk oxen and polarbears. Arctic storms make it quite anuncomfortable place, and due to the hiddencrevasses resulting from glacial melting, alsoa fairly dangerous one.The Summer CountryIn summer, the flora has established itself—more than 4,000 different plants, flowersand herbs can be found on both coasts andthe numerous islands. The short summersgive rise to a kind of growth frenzy, whereplants compete for their place in the sunand almost every soil-covered spot sports amultitude of fl owers. The two-month longfestival of nature celebrates the short arcticsummer, when temperatures indeed canreach up to 20°C in June and July. Despitethe ever-changing weather, the dry arctic airassures clear views of the spectacular scenery.Even distant mountain ranges seem nearerthan they actually are and the completesilence gives one a feeling of reverence.Admiring the colourful south coast fromthe sea, its green meadows protected by hugegrey mountains, while the deep blue arctic seagently rocks impressive icebergs through thefj ords, it is easy to understand why Eric theRed had been so fascinated by this ‘green land’.Icebergs EverywhereThere is hardly anthing more magical thanbathing in the hot spring of Uunartoq whilewatching icebergs float by. Greenland’s hotsprings can reach up to 60°C and icebergscan be seen everywhere. However, no placeis as suitable for experiencing the dramaticsight of inland ice as in Kangerlussuaq,West Greenland. Serving as Greenland’sinternational airport, the town is also calledthe ‘Gateway to Greenland.’ From here youcan easily reach Russel Glacier by foot, dogsledge or helicopter or lose yourself in thepicturesque fj ords of King Frederik’s Landon a kayak trip. The ethereal calm and clearweather of Kangerlussuaq makes it an idealwinter destination—nowhere in the worldare your chances of spotting the NorthernLights as high as in this town with 300cloudless nights per year!The Gateway to the WildernessFor those who seek adventure and solitude,the gateway to the wilderness is accessiblefrom the country’s east coast. Until the lastcentury, East Greenland had literally beencut off from the rest of the country and theoutside world by an impenetrable wall ofrock and ice. Thus the inhabitants of thisisolated location were forced to develop theirown culture, language and oral tradition.To this day, the people there are still deeplyconnected to nature.Take a break from civilization inIttoqqortoormiit, and discover the bordersof the world’s largest national park withits rich animal life and remnants of Inuitculture which date back one thousandyears. The national park is reserved forrangers and scientists, but its outskirts areopen to cruise ships and smaller tours.Visiting this very last outpost of manis truly humbling and serves as a reminderto treat our planet’s northernmost treasurewith care.–DTwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 91

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013action packed toursiceland and greenlandairiceland.isAir Iceland is your West Nordic airline, offering scheduled domestic flights and flights from Iceland to the FaroeIslands and Greenland. A variety of day tour packages,in Iceland and to Greenland, including flight, bus transfer and guidance.a Few examplesTouching GreenlandDaytrips to Kulusuk with air IcelandThere are hardly any icebergs in Iceland,but one doesn’t have to travel far tofind them. Air Iceland offers a popular,often sold out, day tour to Kulusuk onthe southeast coast of Greenland. Startingin the summer of 2014, customers willbe able to choose between the traditionaltour, Kulusuk Classic, and the new tour,Kulusuk Icebergs and Glaciers. The twohourfl ight opens up a whole new world,with qualified travel-guides aiming tosharpen your senses to the beauty ofIceland’s truly icy neighbour.Kulusuk Icebergs and Glaciers TourA two hour boat ride takes you to anabandoned settlement and past an imposingglacier that reaches to the sea. You willencounter an abundance of icebergs thatfloat on the glittering strait betweenKulusuk and the neighbouring island ofAputsijak. On your return to Kulusuk,you will have ample time to stroll throughthe village to admire the well preservedhouses, or discover the unique handicraftsof local artisans. Greenlanders are amazingcraftsmen, carving traditional items fromwalrus tusk and bone.The hunter’s villageThe village of Kulusuk, situated on theisland of the same name, dates back to 1909when Inuit hunters and fishermen decided tosettle down and build their colourful houses.Kulusuk’s oldest inhabitants were born intonomadic Inuit culture. Hunting and fi shingcontinue to be essential sources of incomefor the community. Kulusuk’s highest peak,Qalorujoorneq (676 m) dominates theisland’s impressive mountainous panorama.In the 1950s, an airport was built here formilitary purposes, and is still in use today,providing for safe arrivals and departures.A church with historySuitable walking shoes are advisable forthe 40 minute walk from the village to theairport. Passing the old cemetery, visitors areregaled with stunning views of the island,with the endless Arctic Sea to the left andthe harsh mountain ridge of the southeasternmainland to the right. Due to permafrost,graves are built above ground and coveredwith stones. No names are engraved onthe crosses—in Inuit culture the name of adeceased loved one is passed on to a newbornto ensure continuity. Kulusuk’s church standsas a testimony to the dangers of the sea; builtby the crew of a Danish sailing vessel, usingthe salvaged remnants of their ship that ranaground in 1908.Farewell GreenlandThe aircraft awaits its passengers. Timepermitting, you might feel like one lastwalk up to Stórasteinn, the scenic outpost,where in former times hunters scouted fortheir prey. If you haven’t yet spotted yourfavourite iceberg, now is your chance to takea visual memory of Greenland’s clear purityhome with you. Check out Air Iceland’shomepage for departures. If you have beentouched with Greenland’s striking beautyand would like to stay longer in Kulusuk,accommodation can be arranged.Day TourDay Tourthe Back streets oF ÍsaFjörður lake mývatnÍsafjörðurMývatn8 hour Day Tour / Hiking TourDay TourremarkaBle greenlandhighlights oF the northGreenland – KulusukMývatncontact air iceland or travel agent For reservation92www.icelandictimes.comAir IcelandReykjavik airport • 101 Reykjavik+354 570 3030websales@airiceland.iswww.airiceland.is–DTFor more Day Tours, look at our website www.airceland.iswebsales@airiceland.istel. +354 570 3030

That Island FeelingThe faroe IslandsIt might have been the fertile greenhillsides, or the rich fi shing grounds thatenticed settlers some 1500 years ago to leavetheir homelands and set sail for a new life onthis small archipelago in the middle of theAtlantic ocean. Maybe the fi rst settler hadbeen climbing one of the steep mountains,and, while drinking in the fresh air thatmakes for lush grass for cattle, he savouredthe view of his secret paradise. Maybe he feltpeaceful and secure on his island. Whateverit was, settlers must have felt a deep affectionfor this green place in the middle of the wildAtlantic ocean.The Faroese however, have another storyabout their settlement: a giant and a witch, whotried to pull the islands back to Iceland, butnot being fast enough, petrified with the dawn.The latest archaeological fi ndings suggestthat man settled the Faroe Islands in anorganized manner some 400 years beforethe settlement of Iceland.94Islands in the middle of nowhereThe archipelago is comprised of eighteenislands, connected by modern bridges,tunnels and ferries, with a total of 1289 kmof coastline. From any point on land, it isless than 5 km to the sea. Set approximatelyhalfway between Iceland and Norway, thereis hardly a more island feeling—the nearestcivilization being Scotland, some 320 km tothe southeast. Many people don’t even knowthat the Faroes exist, as the archipelago istoo small for many world maps. If you domanage to fi nd them, they are often markedby two or three small dots, hardly visible tothe naked eye, making you wonder whatthese islands have to offer.Experience the incredibly fresh, clean airand the greenest of grass that even grows onthe roof tops of people’s houses. Dramaticlandscapes with steep mountains, fj ords, arich bird life, cosy villages with colourfulhouses and clean, tasty water are partand parcel of the Faroese way of life. In acountry where every view is breathtakinglybeautiful, it’s not hard to imagine oneselfwalking in the footsteps of the fi rst settlerand understanding what made him stay.An island for yourselfOne of the eighteen islands is inhabitedby just one family. Because anchoring aboat here is often too dangerous in therough seas, a helicopter service has to beused for travel to and from the island.But she never feels isolated, says Eva fromDímun, the smallest inhabited island ofthe archipelago. She runs a farm with herfamily, raising sheep and cows, and makinga living from such products as milk, beefand lamb, sheep skins and handicraftsmade from horns and bones.Nature dictates the rhythm of each day,with the family working in harmony andclosely connected to the earth. What hasbeen a traditional lifestyle for Eva andher people for hundreds of years, can be ameditative retreat for the traveller, who iswelcome to stay at her guesthouse.Due to the whims of nature, life seemsslower here, but this unconventional ladyis not willing to accept any schedules ordeparture times. Eva shakes her beautifulhair and beckons you to follow—on sunnydays, it may be a hiking trip in the midstof dramatic landscapes, along traditionalpaths like those that once served as ancientcommunication routes between villages.Before roads were constructed, peoplewalked between the various villages orgathered at the nearest ting* to buy andsell goods, or to attend church services,christenings, weddings and funerals. Theseancient paths are marked by stone cairns, sothat hikers past and present would not losetheir way.A bird’s paradiseMaybe Eva will invite you to go birdwatching in places like the island of Mykines,to discover its thousands of puffins, gannets,guillemots and other seabirds. You can getquite close to the birds either by excursionboat, or by walking the majestic cliffs.The Faroe Islands’ remote location servesas a magnet for migratory birds. Around300 bird species have been recorded in theislands, but only about a third of these areregular migrants or breeding birds. Another200 species are rare migrants and new birdsare added to the national list every year.The Faroe Islands are among the lesserknown destinations in Western Europe forbirdwatching in spring and autumn.Tórshavn—small yet livelyExplore one of the lively towns, likeTórshavn, one of the smallest capitals in theworld, with its 4-star hotels, 5-star conferencefacilities, thriving music scene, designer shopsand excellent restaurants that combine thefreshest local ingredients in imaginative ways—fi sh, lamb, puffi n, seafood and mountainherbs. The carefully restored houses withtheir characteristic grass roofs, white framedwindows and black-tarred cladding showup as colorful dots on the hillsides, greetingall those who arrive by ferry with a mostwelcoming panorama.*ting- From Old Norse þing meaningassembly, council, or business–DTwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 95

FAROE ISLAANDSGrein um ferðamál færeyjaSEE FOR YOURSELF.IN YOUR OWN VEHICLE.IcelandSeyðisfjörðurFaroe IslandsTórshavn######–##Car? Motorcycle? Camper? It’s your choice. Enjoy the freedomand independence of driving your own favourite vehicle.It all starts when you slowly cruise onboard the Norrönaready to experience what you have never experienced before.Norröna has weekly departures from Denmark tothe Faroe Islands and Iceland.www.smyrilline.comDenmarkHirtshals

• trip duration approx. one hour from your accommodation to the airportO RAuthorised byIcelandic Tourist Board12936Free wiFi hotspoton board allreykjavik excursionscoaches.reyKjavÍK cityreyKjavÍK KeF airportFast, FreQuent & on scheduleevery day oF the weeK.For our flexibleschedule scanthe QR codeBSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík580 5400 • main@re.is • www.flybus.isO RTravel Agencywe‘ll taKeyou there!all the most excitingplaces in icelandexperiencea great daywith us!discover all the magical places notto be missed when in iceland:beautiful nature, multicoloredmountains, fertile farmlands,stunning views, plummetingwaterfalls, natural wonders andgeological phenomena.Book now at your receptionBook now by calling 580 5450Book now on www.re.ismore detailson toursin our brochuresBSÍ Bus Terminal101 Reykjavík580 5400main@re.iswww.re.isTravel AgencyAuthorised byIcelandic Tourist Board

TheHighlandsIceland in a Nutshell - Step off the plane and step into historyNothing in Iceland prepares you for the stark, desolate,raw beauty of the barren upland plateau called theHighlands. An uninhabited area, The Highlandsare completely without towns or villages, just infiniteplains, glacial rivers and lavafields punctuated by ice caps,volcanoes and jagged mountains. The isolation is the reasonwhy people visit it and travellers are humbled by the sublimesight of nature in its rawest, barest form. Historically, trails inthe Highlands were used as summer short cuts betweennorth and south and myths of ghosts and fearsome outlawsspurred travellers along the tracks with all speed. Today, itis probably wiser to worry about the weather, as conditionscan be fickle and snow is not uncommon, even in midsummer.The solitude is exhilarating, the views are vastand it is immensely tough but equally rewarding to hike orbike these cross-country routes. Any self-driving, cycling orhiking trip must be carefully planned. There are no roads inthis area, just tracks and hardly any bridges across the rivers.Of all the various tracks, only two routes actually cross thewhole way between north and south: Sprengisandur (F26)and Kjölur (F35). The region is fully accessible only by fourwheel-drives.It is also possible to get a taste of this utterisolation in safety on bus tours where you will discoveramazing landscapes, similar to lunar landscapes—which isthe reason why the Apollo astronauts came there to trainfor their moon landing.Kjölur, the area between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers100 101

Kerlingarfjöll is a mountain range situated in the HighlandsVeiðivötn (Fishing lakes), a group of lakes in a volcanic regionThe volcanic origin of Kerlingarfjöll is evidenced by thenumerous hot springs and rivulets in the area

Birds ofSouthern Icelanda Birdwatcher’s ParadiseBirds of Southern Iceland is a programmeoffering excellent year-round servicesfor birdwatchers. Southern Iceland has agreat deal to offer visiting birdwatcherswith its wide variety of habitats, includingwetlands, seabird colonies, highland oasesand unique coastlines. The largest coloniesof Puffin, Pink-footed Goose and GreatSkua in the world are located within thisregion, together with Europe’s largestLeach’s Storm-petrel colony.South Iceland has a wide range ofaccommodation from camp sites to 4 -starhotels and some within a short drivingdistance from Reykjavik.Lagoons and glacial sandsHornafjörður and Stakksfjörður are shallowfjords or coastal lagoons on either sideof the village of Höfn. The area is hometo large numbers of birds all year round.Not only is it an important staging areaon migration, but breeding birds are wellrepresented in spring and summer. It is alsothe region’s main wintering area for birds.A rich mosaic of wetlands stretches fromHöfn all the way west to the glacial sands ofBreiðamerkursandur.The bird life of the great glacial sands of thesouth coast has a character all of its own. It isthe kingdom of the Great Skua and is home tothe largest colony of this charismatic specieson Earth. Wherever there is sufficient water,vegetation sprouts up and attracts a range ofbirds. The spectacular Skaftafell National Parkcontains woodlands and a variety of species.Freshwater hotspotsThe areas Landbrot and Meðalland supporta wide range of birds. The region’s wetlandsare varied and include flood-meadows, lakes,springs, streams and lava fields. Breeding birdsinclude Horned Grebe and various ducks.The freshwater springs attract numerous birdsin the winter and form important winteringgrounds for Barrow’s Goldeneye, CommonGoldeneye and Goosander. White-frontedGeese are common visitors on spring andautumn passage.Dales, highlands and lakesThe valley of Mýrdalur is a rich birdingarea, with Reynisfj all, Reynisdrangar andDyrhólaey the chief birding sites. Puffinsbreed on the cliffs at Víkurhamrar above thevillage of Vík (the furthest colony from thesea in the world), on Mount Reynisfjall andthe Dyrhólaey headland, while CommonGuillemot and Razorbill breed at the seastacks of Reynisdrangar and at Dyrhólaey.There is a huge Arctic Tern colony at Víkand a smaller one at Dyrhólaey.Þjórsárver to the south of the Hofsjökullglacier is the most expansive oasis in thecentral highlands. It is an area of spectacularscenery, with rich swathes of vegetationalternating with barren sands and glaciers.The area represents very important breedingand moulting grounds for Pink-footed Geese.Other breeders include Great NorthernDiver, Whooper Swan, Long-tailed Duck,Purple Sandpiper, Red-necked Phalarope,Arctic Tern and Snow Bunting. Part ofÞjórsárver is protected and a Ramsar site.Another key birding location in thehighlands is the chain of lakes calledVeiðivötn. This beautiful and unusuallandscape has been shaped by repeatedvolcanic activity and most of the lakes arelocated in craters. Great Northern Divers areImages by © Jóhann Óli Hilmarssonparticularly common, and other breedingbirds include Whooper Swan, Pink-footedGoose, Scaup, Long-tailed Duck, HarlequinDuck, Ringed Plover, Purple Sandpiper,Arctic Tern and Snow Bunting. Barrow’sGoldeneye winters here and has recently bred.Lakes, ponds and marshes can be foundacross the lowland areas of Landeyjar andRangarárvellir. Some of the best birdingsites are Lake Skúmsstaðavatn and itssurroundings, Oddaflóð (protected) andLake Lambhagavatn. Large numbers ofwildfowl and waders breed in the area andpass through in the spring and autumn.Two of the larger lakes in the area,Apavatn and Laugarvatn, along withadjoining wetlands and rivers, are amongthe best sites for ducks in southern Iceland.Barrow’s Goldeneye, Common Goldeneyeand Goosander winter here. Harlequin Ducksbreed locally and hundreds of Scaup, TuftedDuck and Red-breasted Merganser stop offon passage and are also common breeders.Lake ÞingvallavatnSogið, the river which flows out of LakeÞingvallavatn, is one of Iceland’s best locationsfor winter ducks. It is home to the largest flockof Barrow’s Goldeneye outside Mývatn and isthe main winter site for Common Goldeneyein Iceland. Goosander, Red-breastedMerganser and Tufted Duck are common.White-tailed Eagles are often seen in winterand Harlequin Ducks move up the river inspring. Lake Þingvallavatn itself is known forits breeding Great Northern Divers.Ölfusá RiverThe coastline between the mouths of theÖlfusá and Þjórsá glacial rivers is the largestlava shoreline in Iceland, forming the southernend of the vast Þjórsárhraun lava field whichflowed 8,000 years ago and is the largest posticeage lava flow on Earth. Inland there aremyriad lakes and ponds. The area hosts anarray of birds all year and it is of particularimportance for migrants such as Knot,Dunlin, Sanderling, Turnstone, Brent Goose,Eurasian Wigeon and various other ducks.On either side of the estuary of the Ölfusáriver there are two large wetlands: BirdLifeIceland’s reserve at Flói on the east bank, andÖlfusforir on the west bank. Both are largeexpanses of pools and lakes which attractnumerous birds in the breeding season andon passage alike. The Red-throated Diveris the characteristic bird of the Flói reserveand Dunlin and Black-tailed Godwit areparticularly common here. Ölfusforir isan excellent birding location in winter,attracting large flocks of Teal, Mallardand Goosander, as well as Iceland’s largestconcentration of Grey Heron.–JÓH

TOU R ISM, C U LT U R E A N D BUSI N E S S ISSUE 20 • 2013Men who Made IcelandMatthías Jochumsson, poet and writer of Iceland’s national anthemThe Westfj ords have produced some ofIceland’s most outstanding leaders indifferent fields, particularly during the 19 thcentury, at a time when many of the world’sgreatest names were born.Matthías Jochumsson (1835–1920) wasborn on the Skógar farm on the south part ofthe Westfjords to a poor farming family. Hedid not begin school until a comparativelylate age after his talents were recognised andhe attended the Latin School in Reykjavik.During the Christmas holiday in 1861,he wrote a play called, ‘The Outlaws’ whichhis fellow students performed the followingyear. It became an instant success, therebydistinguishing Matthías as a major poet. Itwas the play that marked the beginning ofmodern Icelandic drama.106The play tells the story of the outlaw, Skuggaand his companions and their confl icts withthe locals, and was inspired by the stories ofoutlaws living in the Icelandic wilderness. Ithas since been performed many times andMatthías, who had been planning to become abusinessman, discovered his love of languagesand literature that was to define his life.On graduating, he became a priest but,when he lost his second wife, it led to greatmental anguish and a reconsideration ofhis religious beliefs. He took a break fromthe priesthood for some years, becomingthe editor of the most popular weeklyIcelandic journal, Þjóðólfur.Although he returned to the Lutheranpriesthood, his was a liberal thinking incontrast to the harsh religious dogmatismof the day. He travelled extensively, beingdrawn to the Romanticist and Reformmovements like the Unitarian church. Heread the works of Ralph Waldo Emersonand was said to be Iceland’s most ableproponent of the liberal religious position.He translated many works fromdifferent languages, including a number ofShakespeare’s works, but it was his prolificpoetry that made him popular. He wrotehis most famous poem for the 1,000 yearcelebration of Ingólfur Árnason’s pioneeringof the country. This was destined to becomeIceland’s national anthem.He was the first poet to be granted apension and the title of National Poet bythe Alþingi, the Icelandic governing bodyin 1900, when he retired as a clergyman.Through his religious poetry, hymnsand funeral elegies, along with his heroicnarrative poems, he continued to preachChristian faith and humanity.He moved to the northern town of Akureyri,where he built a house in 1903, and where helived until his death. The house is now open asa museum and study centre.–aSfHalldór LaxnessThe Nobel Prize-winning Writer from IcelandHalldór Laxness (1902-1998) standsas a luminary amongst the otherIcelandic writers of the 20 th century. Hewas a prolific author during his long career,writing thirteen major novels, five plays anda dramatisation of one of his novels, not tomention his collections of short stories, essaysand memoirs. His books have been translatedinto forty-three languages and published inmore than five hundred editions. His careerwas unique, the diversity of his works almostwithout parallel and, with every book, he canbe said to have approached his readers from anew and unexpected direction.The Writings of a MasterIn the 1920s, he wrote a modernist novelwith a surrealist overlay, ‘The Great Weaverfrom Kashmir’ (1927), as well as progressivepoetry, while in the 1930s, he wrote socialrealist novels, including ‘Independent People’(1934-35) about Bjartur, the farmer ofSummerhouses, ‘the story of a man who sowedhis enemy’s field all his life, day and night.Such is the story of the most independentman in the country’, as it says in the book. Inthe 1940s, he embarked on historical novels,including ‘Iceland’s Bell’, his contribution toIceland’s campaign for independence, whichwas published 1943-46. Among other wellknown works by Laxness are ‘World Light’(1937-40), ‘The Atom Station’ (1948), ‘The FishCan Sing’ (1957) and ‘Paradise Reclaimed’(1960). Laxness wrote absurdist plays in the1960s and, 40 years after ‘The Great Weaverfrom Kashmir’ and, at nearly 70 years old,he began to fl irt anew with the modernist innovel, along with a new generation of Icelandicnovelists, in ‘Under the Glacier’ (1968).Ideals and BeliefsLaxness’ ideals and beliefs changed withtime, as refl ected to a certain extent in hisworks. He began his writing career as aCatholic, then turned to socialism, but laterlost interest in all dogma—except perhapsTaoism. He never attempted to disownthe earlier views which he subsequentlyrepudiated, regarding them instead asan instructive part of his psychologicaldevelopment. Yet, from the earliest periodto the latest, it is possible to detect thesame basic themes in his books. He lookedat things differently from other people,his writings were often barbed, and yet healways managed to see the comic aspectsof his characters and their actions. Hissympathy was invariably with the underdog.–SSwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 107

On graduating, he was given a grant todo scientific research in Iceland, which gavehim the opportunity to follow his interestin botany. He had only really just begun toformulate his ideas when he fell down the stairsat his home in Denmark. Blood poisoning setin and led to his untimely death.Men Who Made IcelandSkúli MagnússonThere are a number of people whohad a great influence on the nationthrough their lives and work.In the 1700s, Iceland was under Danishrule. They held a trading monopoly and themerchants were often corrupt, whilst thecommunities were small and wielded littleeconomic power.Skúli Magnússon (1711-1794) was bornin the remote village of Keldunes in North-East Iceland. His family moved to Húsavík,where his father was a priest.As a teenager, he worked in a Danishmerchant’s company, learning the way108business was conducted. The merchanttold him to “Weigh it right” - meaning tocheat the poor customers. This made himvery angry and he swore to use his life toreplace the dishonest merchants and setup a trading system to improve the livingstandards of the people.In 1732-34, he studied at Copenhagenuniversity, though he didn’t gain his degree.Instead, he took a position in South Icelandas the county magistrate before moving threeyears later to Skagafjörður in the north.In the first year in his new position, aDutch trading ship foundered in the fjörd.Skúli, on discovering the sailors illegallytrading with the local people, seized theirship and its cargo which he used to buildthe village of Akrar. He also procured newtype for the printer, enabling the printshopto run the year round.His vision was to use his wealth andpower to destroy the corrupt system andstrengthen the country. In Skagafjörður, hesued one of the monopolistic merchants forselling poor iron and mouldy flour and forselling over the maximum price allowed.He won the case and became very popularwith the people.He was known as ‘Skúli fógeti’, as he wasthe representative for the king of Denmark.When the country’s Danish Governor wasdismissed in 1749 for drunkeness andbankrupcy, Skúli was appointed to hisposition—becoming the first Icelander tohold the Governor’s post.He moved south to Bessastaðir in 1750and established a commercial enterprise,competing with the Danish merchants,which made enhancements and inventionsin agriculture and industry. Within sixmonths, he won the Danish king’s approval.He became known as ‘The Father ofReykjavik’ and was the only one bringingnews and information to the country.Reykjavik was little more than a smatteringof houses, farms and fields at this time.Skúli built simple factories, focussing onagricultural machinery, sulfur processing, awool weaving centre, dyeing, rope-making,leather work, shipbuilding and fishing. Hewanted Icelanders to use decked boats sothey could fish in deeper seas, increase theircatches with less risk to life than the openrowing boats used at the time.The only building from that time stillstanding is Aðalstræti 10, in Reykjavik’s centre,which operated as a factory until 1803.It thenbecame a private residence where some ofIceland’s most prominent citizens have stayed,including Jón Sigurðsson, the leader of the 19 thcentury Icelandic independence movement.Around 2000, the conservationists renovatingit wanted a business reflecting Skúli’s spirit ofinnovation and design to use it. Kraum wasthe company chosen.Skúli set up a farm on Viðey island andbuilt Viðeyjarstofa as his official housebetween 1753-55. He worked tirelesslybefore finally retiring in 1793. He died thefollowing year.In 1954 a statue of Skúli Magnusson waserected to commemorate the centenary offree trade in Iceland.–asfImage by © Gabriel RosenbergMen Who Made IcelandJónas Hallgrímsson changed the face of Icelandic poetryMany of Iceland’s greatest heroes werenot fearsome warriors but all werefighters for what they passionately believedin. They were not from the cities, as Icelanddidn’t possess any. Their education wasnot in a monolithic ediface, churning outspiritless robots but in the home and thefields and on the sea, where character wasbuilt in the face of adversity.Jónas Hallgrímsson was born the third offour children in 1807 in the beautiful valleyof Öxnadalur, a narrow dale enclosed on bothsides by high mountains with jagged peaks.From these humble beginnings,surrounded by a culture of oral story-tellingof folklore, poetry and sagas, in the pristinebeauty of the nature he would later writeabout, he rose in his short lifetime to becomethe nation’s most loved and popular poet.A Stale DietFrom the sagas of the Middle Ages, Icelandicpoetry had fallen into a stale regimen ofpathos and criticism. Even the poems ofJónas’ role model, Eggert Ólafsson, whobroke new ground with his writing, areconsidered stale and dull by comparison.Jónas was schooled for six years at the Latinschool in Bessastaðir, now the home of theIcelandic president, with a rigorous trainingin Latin and Greek classics that would standhim in good stead. He developed an interestin science that was ahead of his time butdidn’t live long enough to codify his ideas.University in RevolutionIn 1832, he sailed to Copenhagen, wherehe started studying law at the university.After 4 years, he switched to literatureand natural sciences, excelling in both.Revolutionary fervour was sweeping Europe,as independence movements fought forfreedom from the established order. Withthree friends, he founded a magazine, Fjölnir,for which he wrote for the rest of his life. Itsgoal was to inspire patriotism in Iceland.A Literary LegacyThus, it is for his poetry that he is bestknown, rather than his scientific work.He first published many of his poems inFjólnir. His poetry expresses his love for hiscountry, its beauty and landscapes that soinfluenced his early life, in particular. Heis considered to be a founding father of theIcelandic Romanticist movement and hisstyle completely changed the direction andform of Icelandic poetry, breathing new lifeand vigour into its expression.Such was his influence on Icelandicliterature that his birthday, 16 th of November,is celebrated as Icelandic Language Day. Eachyear, the Minister of Education gives theJónas Hallgrímsson Award to an author inrecognition of their contribution to Icelandicliterature.–asf109

A Brag Book For IcelandI Was Here — a New Landscape Photography BookBragging about your perfect holiday canbecome a bit tiresome after a while,as you keep repeating the same stories, butnever fully capture your experiences. A goodsolution is a professional photography bookwith the best of what Iceland has to offerthat does all the bragging for you—and, ofcourse, keeps your memories alive. The bookin question is aptly named ‘I Was Here’ andwas just released in the summer of 2013.Author, Kristján Ingi Einarsson, is one ofIceland’s most experienced photographersand respected in his field. He has two otherlandscape books to his name: ‘The Essenceof Iceland’, published in 2009 and ‘Icelandso Quiet’ in 2010, as well as countless otherprojects and exhibitions.Kristján is particularly enamoured withthe tranquillity and stillness in the natureof Iceland and is always looking out forsomething new. “The unspoiled and peacefullandscapes in collaboration with the everchangingweather and light seem to createendless photographic opportunities of boththe grand and the tiniest details. You can thustake pictures on the same spot over and overagain, but they will never turn out exactly thesame. That’s why I often compare photographyin Iceland to fishing, because you never knowwhat you’re going to come home with,” saysKristján. He prefers to let the pictures come tohim and, as an avid traveller in Iceland, therenever seems to be a lack of inspiration.His new book comes in a new and excitingpanoramic format, which Kristján says givescertain pictures added value and presentsthem in a new light, while the book remainsvery compact and handy.Opening hours 11:00-18:00Lækjargata 4 • Tel. +354 55 10 100 • jomfruin@jomfruin.iswww.jomfruin.is

SOUVENIR SHOPSHOP OF THE YEAR 2012The viking:infoLaugavegur 1 · ReykjavíkHafnarstræti 1 - 3 · ReykjavíkHafnarstræti 104 · Akureyrie:info@theviking.iswww.theviking.isAkureyriReykjavíkTAX FREE