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so take care to make it the desired depth. I ran a file over theraised edges of the dimple to better define the base of therivet (Photo 12). Put the knob on the end of the pin. Label theknob and the plate #1. Now rotate the plate, end for end with1214the same face up. Screw it down and repeat the dimple processwith the other pin and label them #2 (Photo 13). I havesome number dies so I stamped my numbers into the plate(Photos 14). After assembly, the embosser is just about done.I, like so many of us, struggle with my eye sight. So, to makethings easier I added a magnifying glass to see what I wasdoing. I made sure to angle it so I could view what is goingon. It just took a bit of tweaking and fiddling to get it right(Photo 15).Now I needed to add something as a spacing guide. Thiswas nothing more than a relief filed into the edge of the plate.This is positioned so the distance from the dimple to the startof the relief sets the spacing of the rivet (Photo 16). With thisin place, all I had to do was move the first rivet made over tothe relief mark and pull it tight against the edge of the reliefand emboss the next rivet in the line. That is all there is to it!1513I also made variousspacers out of 1/8”16plexi that can be seton top of the plate andagainst the fence. Theyallowed me to set howclose to the edge ofmy flat material therow of rivets would bemade. Use the properpin and plate comboand you’re off making rivets! I was very happy with this littleproject. It has done wonderful work for me. And, while it is abit tedious making all those rivets for the bridge, the results arewell worth it.I’d like to thank Martin Brechbiel for his assistance in writingthis article. Also, if you’d like me to build you an embosser,contact me by email at [jgizzmo@verizon.net].uEd. note: Parts List is on the next page.July/Aug ’09 - O Scale Trains • 41