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a little CA glue to firm it up. Insert the other piece into thehandle and file it flush with the face if necessary. Clamping thehandle supports together, drill a 1/4” hole at the position noted(Photo 7). Also enlarge the hole in the knob with the same drillbit. Since I used a “T” nut on the handle, I had to enlarge oneof the holes to the 9/32” size. I also had to countersink aroundthe holes to get the 2¼” bolt to reach though completely. Insertthe “T” nut into the larger hole by threading the bolt into it andtapping with a hammer (Photo 8). With all the pieces cut anddrilled, it is time for the assembly (Photo 9). Assemble everythingusing glue and screws, but do not push the knob onto theend of the pin, and also leave the hardwood fence, aluminumplate and spacer off for the moment. We will take care of thatin the next step.7Now it is time to set the embossing plate. As you can see,the fence is rather tall. It supports the different size of spacersused to set the distance that the row of rivets will be fromthe edge of your material, i.e. the wider the spacer used, thecloser to the edge the row of rivets will be located. When Ineeded the ability to emboss things like the large fish plates onmy bridge, I replaced the large fence with a thinner fence thatwas flush with the plate’s surface. That is why I suggest that thelarge fence to be screwed in place and not glued. This allowsone to take advantage of the full depth of the throat on theupright.The plate is a piece of 1” wide x 1/8” thick aluminum purchasedat the local Ace hardware store in 4’ lengths. After cuttingto length (9” to match the base), hold the plate, spacer andfence in place. Insert the pin and let it rest on the plate (Photo10). You are trying to get the center of the pin to end up about1/16” from the edge. Trim the fence until this is achieved. Take1089your time here. It needs to be close to the edge so that smallangle shaped styrene can be embossed. Once set, mount theplate and spacer to the base using flat head screws with countersinks.Make sure to drill the mounting holes 3/4” from oneend and 1-1/4” from the other and both in the center. This willallow you to flip the plate to make different size rivets withoutgoing into the same holes.With the plate and shim mounted, insert the pin into itshole, point down, and let the point rest on the plate. The endof the pin is struck hard enough to make a dimple in the plate(Photo 11). This dimple forms the exposed face of the rivet,1140 • O Scale Trains - July/Aug ’09