28is mentioned on every bottle, than producers of Bordeaux or Bourgogne, consequence of past and traditionof production. Today the vision concerning Languedoc wine starts to change even if the productionof quality has begun since 1980, and this vineyard is regularly in the middle of a large crisis withreduction of vineyard area. Only producers who changed their production towards a quality production,and not quantity, can have a profitable company today.3.4. Critics of PGIOne problem of PGI is the lack of strict definition and clearness. Only a particular quality, reputationor another characteristic is necessary to obtain it. The danger is to know what exactly a reputation is. Itseems to be completely different than the short recognition realised by a good campaign of advertising.Today the delimitation of a PGI area is, in most cases, functions from the economic reality morethan the traditional area, typical production or localisation of producers. PGI is born where there wasan economic production to sustain it, and it seems to be a tool for rural development. (Bérard &Marchenay, 2004, p.77) The lack of adaptation of PGI for the small producers, many of whom havedifficulties making their production or manufacturing place meets sanitary norms, indicates an immediateneed for change. (Bérard & Marchenay, 2004, p.137)PGI is influenced by the label or CCP needed in association to have a very high level of sanitary quality,which is in some cases impossible with the traditional know-how. It is resulting in a standardisationof the products often manufactured by companies rather than by the producer himself. This highcost to put all the equipment in norm is resulting in a disappearance of small producers and a manufacturingindustrialisation of PGI. Also concerning the association with Label Rouge, PGI appears in asecond time for consumers, the notoriety of Label rouge reduces the effect of Appellation. Consumersare more familiar with Label Rouge than PGI. The association with Label Rouge is better for PGI thanwith CCP, since Label rouge is more well-known than CCP, even if the cost of CCP is lower.3.5. Labels and local speciesLabels are often accused of reducing the diversity by strict regulation. However, this seems like a generalisationbecause the use of seeds or local varieties is managed differently between quality signs, forexample. PDO allows the use of local seeds, multiplied by producers themselves, like bean seeds forthe PDO Haricot Tarbais. For Label Rouge, CCP and PGI, it is a totally different situation. Producerscan only use registered seeds or species in the definition of Appellations or labels. (Bérard &Marchenay, 2004, p.96) In the definition of Appellations, one of their goals concerning species is toprotect the biodiversity, for example, by facilitating the protection and the use again of old and localraces. (Bérard & Marchenay, 2004, p.98-99)3.6. Appellations and rural developmentPDO can be a tool for rural development federating producers, allowing environmental and economicaldevelopment of the area. Local races valorised in a PDO are always linked to a typical social organisationof producers. This explains that when local races are protected, the social organisation ofthe territory and the local economy are also protected. The reintroduction of local races can also be ameans to promote Appellations since producers can communicate a lot about their tradition and thetypicity. Local species represent a passport or an identity tool for a specific area.
French Official Quality Signs 293.7. Private signs of qualityFor producers who want to organise themselves with a quality sign, there is another possibility to improvetheir sales: the creation of a local label, with its proper rules of organisation and quality. This istotally opposed to the Official Quality Signs, because local labels look more like a brand than an Appellationor a Label Rouge. Producer members of a local label organise themselves on the control ofquality, and thus, there isn’t any official insurance concerning the respect of the rules, even if theselocal label are supported by the European program LEADER for the rural development.Labels and Appellations seem to appear like a perfect means to promote rural development, helpingagriculture and changing the means of production to satisfy the obligations of WTO concerning directsubsidies. This vision wouldn’t be totally true without underlining the recent modifications in theregulation of European Signs of Quality. Nowadays, France does not manage PGI, PDO or TSG:Europe regulates them instead. The policy of the European Union seems to be increasing the expectationsof sanitary safety. Producers and companies are obliged to make a lot of modifications in theirproduction or transformation infrastructures. This cost is already high for big companies, and thereforeimpossible for small producers. That is the reason why some producers begin to leave Appellations.For French producers, there is incomprehension about this modification of the Appellation regulation.They have a lot of problems understanding how these regulations, which were formerly designed tohelp small quality producers, can be transformed by Europe in a new means of creation of a monopolyin the food sector with big industries.