Bay Area Top ropes - SuperTopo

ContentsIntroductionNorth Coast Dining and Amenities 9Poison Oak 13The Climbing Instinct 14Key Climbing Phrases and their descriptions 16Ratings, Anchors, and Moving to Outdoors 17Gear for Top Roping 20Top Rope Instruction in the Bay Area 21Introduction to Top Roping Anchors 22Avoiding the Biggest Dangers in Top Roping 26Technique 28Wine Country1. Mt St Helena (The Quarry, Bubble, Far Side) 34North Coast2. Salt Point (Fisk Mill Cove, The Playground) 423. Sea Crag 524. Goat Rock (Sunset Boulders) 565. Mickey’s Beach (Main Rock, Egg Rock) 62North Bay6. Mount Tamalpais (East Peak) 667. Ring Mountain (Split Rock) 70East Bay8. Berkeley (Indian Rock, Cragmont, Remilard) 749. Indian Joe Caves 8210. Mt Diablo (Boy Scout Rocks) 86San Francisco/South Bay11. Beaver Street Wall 9212. Handley Rock 9413. Castle Rock (Indian Rock, Goat Rock) 96Sierra Foothils14. Mosquito Coast 10615. Cosumnes River (Bucks Bar Dome, Struggler Cliff) 108Bonus Cliffs16. Dos Rios (Eel River) 11217. Squaw Rock 11618. Twin Coves 11819. Granite Creek 120About the Authors 124Climbs by Rating 1255F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

AcknowledgementsThanks to these local climbers for theirfirst ascents:Jordy Morgan, Jim and Jason Campbell,Jim Thornburg, Scott Frye, Jerry Dodrill,Marcos Nunez, Bruce Morris, DaveCaunt, Ken Ariza, Tom Richardson, MarkHowe, Richie Esquibel, Russ Bobzien, JeffFollett, Eric Berghorn, Ken Stanton, WadeMills, Forest Shute, Ryan Tolentino andAaron Rough.Special thanks to these people for theirhelp with the guide:Stripe aka Buddy–the best dog in theworld, Chris’ wonderful mom JeanieAnderson-Saludes and awesome stepdadBony Saludes, the beautiful, smart,funny, athletic and stylish Holly AnneGrinnell, Harrison Hood, Bruce Morris,Jerry Dodrill, Richie Esquibel, CharlieBarrett, Ken Ariza, Marcos Nunez, OdessaLadinsky, Dave Buchanan, WestminsterWoods, and Chris McNamara.Cover Photo: Holly Anne on Split Rock.Photo by Jerry DodrillBack Cover Photo: Chris Summit climbsBlue Heron at Twin Coves. Photo by JerryDodrillPage 3 Photo: Lita Collins climbs on Mt.Tam. Photo by Chris McNamaraCover Design by David Safanda DesignSolutions. www.safanda.comChris and Val would like to give aheartfelt thank you to all our family andfriends that have helped us with this bookand also in every aspect of life. Chriswould also like to give a very specialthanks to Val for all her love and supportthroughout every aspect of this book.For our best dog friend, Stripe, akaBuddy. We will miss you and love youforever.Book CreditsCopyright 2010 by SuperTopo, LLC. Allrights reserved. No part of this book maybe reproduced in any form, or by anyelectronic, mechanical, or other means,without the permission in writing fromthe publisher.Written by Chris McNamara, ChrisSummit and Valentine Cullen.Photos by Chris Summit (unlessotherwise noted).Edited by Steve McNamara and ChrisMcNamara.Layout by Chris McNamara and ValentineCullen.7F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

Charlie Barrett on the West Face of Mickey’s Beach Crag. -Chris SummitIntroductionBy Chris SummitTThis is a guidebook to the best top ropeclimbs in the San Francisco Bay Area(top rope = to climb a rock with the ropesecurely anchored to the top). The toprope is the most frequently used techniquefor climbing cliffs that are about 25-100feet tall, which is the size of most Bay Arearocks. Most of these rocks have access tothe top via walking, scrambling or in a fewcases a relatively easy lead climb or boulderproblem. Also included are some of thebest boulder problems at the top ropeareas, since one persons top rope may beanother’s boulder problem or vice versa andbecause bouldering is one of the best waysto learn how to climb. There is also somelead climbing information included sincelead climbing is often one and the same astop roping. You will be able to find a fewof the best lead climbs at your favorite toproping areas. Bay Area Top Ropes will helpyou from start to finish and get you out toproping as safely as possible at all the bestareas within about a two-hour drive of theGolden Gate.WE GIVE TIPS BUT THIS IS NOT ANINSTRUCTION BOOKThere is some instructional informationin the first chapter meant to point youin the right direction as far as gettingstarted and to fill in any gaps in yourlearning process. Bay Area Top Ropes isnot meant to serve as a main source oftop rope instruction. The learning processshould include a qualified instructor andwe recommend the best local sourcesof instruction as well as gear and otherrelevant information. Let BATR also serveas a simple reminder of techniques andskills you will need to help you climb safelyand enjoy yourself as you learn.In the Climbing Tips-Instruction/Information section of the book we beginwith which gym or guide service to choosefor a climbing/belay lesson (or how to bestchoose an experienced friend/mentor) thenwe describe what type and size of gear youwill need to get started and demonstratehow to place it and set up the anchorsystems. Our guidebook then takes you tothe actual places to top rope in the Bay Area,such as Castle Rock in the south bay, MtSt Helena in the north bay (wine country),and Mt Diablo in the east bay. Once at theseareas with your newly acquired skills andgear, you will be fully equipped with allthe information you’ll need to set up a toprope and start enjoying some of the bestclimbing the Bay Area has to offer. We hopeyou discover that the top rope is a tried andtrue form of “pure” climbing for any levelclimber and that the Bay Area crags havesome fun, picturesque and worthy climbs.SuperTopo.comAll the Bay Area info below is available atwww.supertopo.com with links directly tothe sources for easier trip planning.When to climbYou can climb year round at all areas inthis book. That said, each area has its ownsweet time to visit. The Bay Area is full ofmany microclimates and the weather ateach area changes drastically throughoutthe year and often throughout the day. Itcan be 50 degrees cold and foggy at StinsonBeach and at the same moment 100 degreeshot and muggy at Vacaville. Short of amassive winter storm, there is usually someplace in the Bay Area with good climbingconditions. We have done our best toprovide an overview of the weather for eachspecific area, but it will still take some timeto understand the ever-changing conditionsand be able to plan your climbingaccordingly.9F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

I N T R O D U C T I O NNapa/Lake BerryessaLake Berryessa has seven private resortsthat have camping. Most of the resorts areon the west and south shores off CA-128or Knoxville Rd. only a few miles from theVacaville and Putah Creek bouldering areas.Napa has a good campground: SkylineWilderness Park on 2201 Imola Ave., whichis about 15 miles west of Lake Berryessa.Call (707) 252-0481. Bothe Napa ValleyState Park is close to Mt St. Helena (707)942-4575, www.ca.govSanta Rosa/KenwoodSugarloaf Ridge State Park off CA-12just west of Kenwood and east of US-101in Santa Rosa has good boulders withinwalking distance of the campground.Take Adobe Canyon Rd. from CA-12for a few miles to the park entrance andcampground. Call (800) 444-PARK.North Bay Dining and AmenitiesMarin CountyBrooklyn Pizza at 900 Andersen Dr. andHigh Tech Burrito at 484 Las Gallinas or2042 Fourth St., San Rafael. Just off US-101in Corte Madera (south of San Rafael) isan REI with almost everything you’ll needfor climbing or camping. Take the sameParadise Dr./Tamalpais Dr. exit as for theRing Mountain climbing/bouldering area,but go to the shopping center on the westside of US-101 off Tamalpais Dr.The Oceanside town of Stinson Beach (nearStinson and Mickey’s Beach boulderingareas) has a good market: Beckers by theBeach has good food, drink, and supplies.Other dining in town can be found on themain drag - CA-1.Napa/SonomaAn assortment of gas stations, stores andrestaurants can be found off CA-12 andCA-29 in downtown Napa or Sonoma. InNapa try the muy bueno High Tech Burrito,641 Trancas St. (off CA-29). In Sonomaenjoy a Bay Area original, the deliciousMary’s Pizza Shack in the Sonoma Plazaand on Sonoma Hwy. (CA-12).Santa Rosa/KenwoodSanta Rosa is one hour north of SanFrancisco on US-101 and has all theamenities you might need: gas, climbing/camping gear (Sonoma Outfitters, REIand Vertex) and indoor climbing at Vertex.A wide variety of dining is available inSanta Rosa. Try the Russian River BrewingCompany on Fourth St. in downtown or thetasty Taqueria Santa Rosa or China Roomin Rincon Valley. Or just east of Santa Rosain quiet little Kenwood try the Mexican/Spanish cuisine at the Vineyards Inn onthe corner of Sonoma Hwy. (CA-12) andAdobe Canyon Rd. (the road to SugarloafRidge State Park bouldering area andcampground).East Bay CampingOakland/BerkeleySoutheast of Oakland and Berkeley campingis available at Lake Chabot in AnthonyChabot Regional Park. From I-580 east inCastro Valley take the Redwood Rd. exit andturn left onto Redwood Rd. or from I-580west take the Castro Valley exit and turn leftonto Castro Valley Blvd., then right ontoRedwood Rd. and follow it to the park. Callin advance (510) 562-2267.Oakland/San JoseCamping is available in the hills betweenOakland and San Jose at Sunol RegionalWilderness near Pleasanton. Take I-580 eastto I-680 south to Calaveras Rd./CA-84, turnleft onto Calaveras, then take Geary Rd. tothe park. Enjoy a short hike and some funcragging at Indian Joe Caves on Indian JoeCreek Trail inside the park.Call in advance (510) 562-2267.Vacaville/Lake BerryessaLake Berryessa has seven private resorts thathave camping. Most of the resorts are onthe west and south shores off CA-128 orKnoxville Rd.11F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

I N T R O D U C T I O NEast Bay Dining and AmenitiesOakland/EmeryvilleTry the eclectic mix of food vendorsat the Emeryville Public Market (5959Shellmound St.). It is off I-80/I-580/I-880in Emeryville south of Berkeley and northof Oakland. Take the Powell St. exit east toShellmound St.BerkeleyGas, food, climbing/camping gear (REI andMarmot), and the largest indoor climbinggym in the Bay Area: Berkeley Ironworks.Enjoy an eccentric assortment of foodand shops on the busy Telegraph Ave. indowntown Bezerkly (take Ashby Ave. a fewmiles east of I-80).VacavilleGas, food and shopping malls right off I-80,only a few miles from the Vacaville OpenSpace bouldering areas.South Bay CampingBig BasinBig Basin Redwoods State Park (the firstState Park in California)–25 miles northof Santa Cruz and about 65 miles south ofSan Francisco on CA-236 near the town ofBoulder Creek and just a short drive fromCastle Rock State Park - Call (800) 444-PARKSan Jose/Castle RockCamping is available at Castle Rock StatePark about a 3-mile hike from the parkinglot. The primitive sites are about $10 pernight and are first come, first served. Nearthe city of Saratoga on Big Basin Way is anice campground called Saratoga Springswith RV and tent camping.Monterey/Big SurSouth of Carmel and Granite Creek, thebold and beautfiul Big Sur has campingavailable - try Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.Call (837) 667-2315Southern Marin and San Francisco getting the afternoon dose ofsummer fog as seen from Mt Tam. -Chris Summit12B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O S

I N T R O D U C T I O NPoison OakPoison oak is all around the Bay Area andat many of the climbing areas in this book.You can identify it by its three-leaf pattern,which has led to the saying, “leaves of three,let it be.” The edges are rounded as opposedto oak tree leaves that have sharp points. Itcomes in either dark greenish bushes (easyto avoid) or small individual brownishsprouts (much harder to avoid). It is oftenhidden under other plants and has a varietyof different colors when in bloom: green,red, and orange. Touching poison oak oranything that has touched it (clothes, shoes,dogs, or ropes) can lead to an itchy rash thatcan spread rapidly if you scratch it. The bestdefense against poison oak rash is to avoidit. If that does not work use a product calledTecnu immediately after contact. Or, justuse soap and water. Immediately wash allclothes/shoes/dogs–the oils from the poisonoak can stay on them for days. Once a rashdevelops, use Tecnu and anti-itching creamto prevent spreading.Leaves of three let it be.Poison oak can be red and orange also.Comparrison of poison oak (below) and (regular oak leaves)above.13F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

I N T R O D U C T I O NThe Climbing InstinctBy Chris SummitLong ago, when saber-tooth tigers prowledthe land and mammoths scratched theirbacks on giant boulders, humans wereclimbing. We were climbing trees androcks to escape the dangers lurking onthe ground and to find food and shelter.Early humans had to climb so our bodiesare built for it after thousands of years ofevolution. Today, humans are still climbingbut now it’s for fun, sport, and personalgrowth. Climbing, like walking, running,swimming, fighting, and making love, isone of every human’s primal instincts–it’scalled survival. Getting in touch with theseprimal instincts helps us better understandour deep subconscious desires, our true self.By understanding ourselves better we canthen take better care of ourselves and thosearound us. Unfortunately, some peoplealso get in touch with their savage rootswhen they feel these primal urges. Theylose control and bar fight, road rage, orwage war. Luckily, most of us feel this “callof the wild” without feeling a need to hurtanyone or anything. We find more peacefulalternatives in less agro methods of release.“Extreme sports” are growing in popularitybecause of this human desire to growbetter, faster, and stronger. It is the naturalprogression of evolution to eliminatethe rules and balls and contraptions ofother often over-complicated sports andget back on track with the simple primalsports. Climbing, especially top roping andbouldering, are as simple as it gets. They arethe purest forms of climbing and amongthe most “extreme” sports of the new erathat tap into our instinctual desire not justto survive, but to thrive.The climbing instinct is in all of us.Some of us have just learned to tap into itand set free a primal state of being. Passeddown to us from our primate ancestors,the ability and desire to climb trees androcks is natural, yet it is ignored by most.Young or old, man or woman, whoeveryou are, climbing can be a rewarding if notlife-changing experience. Today the actualclimbing is nearly as primal as it was whencavemen climbed for their lives. But with theadded bonus of our superior intellect andtechnology we have been able to eliminatemost of the danger and use it as a natural,functional exercise for our body machine, anextremely active form of physical meditationand–don’t forget–for fun. Humans are nowcapable of pushing our bodies and mindsas far as we can imagine. These “extremesports” can unleash our primal instinctsand help us physically as well as mentallyrise to a new level of awareness and being.Climbing and all “extreme sports” are supernaturalmethods of the new age that willpower our human bodies and universalminds along the evolutionary fast track to ahealthier, smarter, more balanced future.Why am I telling you, a rock climber, whatyou already probably know? Because I wantto reaffirm what you already feel inside andlet you know you are not alone, so that youcan be very proud of what you do and whowe climbers are. Climbers new and old needto remember that our “sport” is as green asit gets. We are the friends and stewards ofthe stone bones of our planet and the greenbelts that embrace them. By having thisintimate realtionship with yourself and withnature you can transcend the sport aspect ofclimbing and enter into a realm of art andspirituality. Climbing is about becoming onewith nature, not conquering it.I hope you embrace whatever kind ofclimbing you love and climb ever higher, notonly up the rocks and mountains, but alsoin life.Holly Anne on North Slab (5.6) on top of Mt. Tam.14B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O S

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N O R T H C O A S TSalt PointClimbs: 50 total/ 30 listedAnchor: Slings/bolts/gearDifficulty: 5.7-5.12, mostly 5.8-5.11Inside Salt Point State Park in the northwesterncorner of Sonoma County are someof the last secret rocks on the Pacific Coast.Tafoni sandstone cliffs and boulders arehidden in lost coves and lush Eucalyptusforests and all are just off the scenic PacificCoast Highway. Though scrambling hasbeen going on here forever because it isoften the only way to navigate the rockycoastline by foot, modern day climbing hasonly been going on since the 1980s. It wasthen that local climbers began to realizethat the plentiful Northern Sonoma Coastsandstone, while crumbly in some places,could also be solid and well worth it inothers. Most of the rocks discovered at firstwere top roped except for a few of the easiertraditional lead cracks and roadside boulderproblems. Sport climbing took hold in thelate 1990s and many great lead routes weredeveloped. Some of those sport routes, someof the best trad climbs, and even a few of thebest boulder problems are top ropeable.About the rockPocketed tafoni sandstone cliffs andboulders with solid brown patina.AnchorsMostly bolt anchors requiring only 5-10’slings but some climbs need longer 15-20’slings for natural rock anchors.When to climbRusty on Nautilus at The Playground.All year can be all good with the exceptionof winter when the rock can stay wet forlong periods due to fog and sea spray. Windand sun take care of this problem quicklyso check the forecast before heading out ifyou are unsure. A great escape from the heatof summer and cold of winter–but keep inmind that it can be windy any time of year.Number of climbs by difficulty5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.130 0 0 0 0 2 2 3 5 8 5 3 016B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O S

Salt PointDriving directionsFrom CA 116/CA-1 intersection south ofJenner drive about 20 miles north into thepark or about five miles south of SkaggsSprings Rd. on CA-1. The climbing/bouldering areas are all to the north andsouth of Fisk Mill Cove off CA-1.Fisk Mill Cove Parking Lot GPS: 38.59397-123.34467 (across from mile marker 4263)The PlaygroundNorthRockApproachN O R T H C O A S TFollow separate approach info listed witheach area–most are in Fisk Mill Cove orjust off CA-1 north of it and only requireabout 5 to10-minute hikes on mixed terrain.Sentinel Rock GPS: 38.595607, -123.349118Memorial Rock GPS: 38.597034,-123.351734North Rock GPS: 38.597860, -123.352961North to Skags Springs RoadGualalaMemorial BlockMemorialRockShipwreck WallTreasure ChestSouth FaceSentinelRock1PacificOceanFiskMillCoveBouldersFisk Mill Cove5.3 miles south of Skags Spring Rd22.7 miles north of Hwy. 116The Johnny CashBouldersShroomlandwaterfallWaterfallBouldersShroomBoulderSouth to Jenner+ Highway 116F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M17

Salt PointN O R T H C O A S TNorth Cove ParkingFisk Mill Cove ParkingCA5 B3 214trailheadFisk Mill Cove as seen from the point just south of The Playground. Rusty anchors from the 1800s were used to load boats withstone that was used to make the buildings and streets of San Francisco.A3aFisk Mill Cove ParkingTafoni sunset seen from the top of Sea Biscuit. Photo by Jerry Dodrill–JerryDodrill.com2a1aSentinal Rock, north-west face. Shipwreck Wall (center) and The Treasure Chest and South Face (bottom right).Fisk Mill CoveRoutes listed on next pageA Sentinel Rock1 South Face1a Sea Biscuit2 Treasure Chest2a Gritty Kitty 5.7 top rope crack corner.3 Shipwreck Wall3a Peg Leg (LEAD ROUTE)*B Memorial Rock4 Memorial BlockC North Rock5 South/West/North Faces18B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O S

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Salt PointN O R T H C O A S TFisk Mill Cove–Sentinel Rock (South Face)From the north end of the north-mostparking lot in Fisk Mill Cove hike on themain trail toward Sentinel Rock and thecove. Just before Sentinel Rock take a leftonto the trail heading downhill to the oceanand the chill spot next to the South Faceof Sentinel. From there the final part ofthe trail down to the belay area is a 5.5Xdownclimb scramble and a short rappel isrecommended. There is a one-bolt belayanchor just above the water line–DO NOTtry these climbs if it is high tide or bigwaves.54CBB3a3A12Anchor A: 10’ sling around rock.o 1. 5.10★ Arête–step off rock to start.Anchor B: Climbs 2-4–two 2-bolt anchorswith only draws or short slings needed.o 2. Sea Serpent 5.10b/c★★ Start offrock same as the 5.10 arête, then traversehorizontal crack left into the finish ofSwashbuckler (use directional bolt(s) offSwashbuckler anchor).1 belay boltSentinel Rock– South Face.o 3. Swashbuckler 5.11b/c★★★★ Start SeaBiscuit, then up right into corner. 3a 5.12+TR face.o 4. Sea Biscuit 5.12b/c★★★★ Steep leftarête over the water. Belay anchor.BA124735620B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O S

Salt PointFisk Mill Cove–Memorial Rock/North Rock(North Cove)Park in the huge dirt pullout 0.5 milesnorth of Fisk Mill Cove (mile marker 4306)and hike on good trails either southwest toMemorial Rock or northwest to North Rock.For Memorial Block scramble down the3rd class rocky hillside on the south side ofMemorial Rock–the routes are on the northside of the Block. For North Rock a shortscramble is also needed to get to the base.Memorial/North Rocks Parking GPS:38.59893 -123.34987Memorial Rock–Memorial BlockAnchor A: boulder/solo short V0 or climbold log on East Face to get to the big ledgewith the two-bolt anchor–draws or slings.o 1. Blockhead V0R★★ Approach/descent.o 2. Sardine Roof 5.8★★ Left face/roof.o 3. Black Pearl 5.8★★★ Main line-Lead/TR. Three black bolts to two ring bolts onledge.N O R T H C O A S To 4. Captain Nemo 5.8★★★ Right face.Anchor B (for #5): bolt/gear + 10’ slingso 5. Gym Squids 5.12/V4R★★★ West Face.o 6. Block Pearl V1/2★★★ Sit start miniroof to no hands rest at start of Black Pearlor left to rest at the start of Block Party.o 7. Blockhead Traverse V2/3★★ Traversethe east face–pads + spotters recommended.North RockApproach from the parking area and hike infrom the north cove trails direct to the topof North Rock and scramble around eitherside.Anchor A: Bolts. Bring 8-10’ slings.o 8. Free Willy 5.10★★ Southwest face/arête–Lead or TR.o 9. 5.11★ West face of North Rock.o 10. 5.12★★ North face of North Rock.A1089F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

Salt PointN O R T H C O A S TThe PlaygroundPark in a long dirt pullout on the west sideof CA-1 1.0 miles north of Fisk Mill Cove(mile marker 4366). Find the trailhead(about 20 feet north of mile marker 4366,follow it downhill through the trees into anopen grassy field and continue toward therocky outcrop at the waters edge. Hike justsouth and up and over this rock formationto the numerous short walls of ThePlayground.Playground Parking GPS: 38.6039,-123.35765The Playground has a few good boulderproblems from VB-V4 mixed in with theroutes. Just south of the main formation offthe trail to the west near the point are a fewfun small boulders. The Iron Fish Boulderand the smaller boulder to the north are thebest, with problems from VB to V5.Conch CragAnchor A: Two bolts. Bring draws or 1’slings.o 1. Childs Play Traverse V0★★ Traversesmall cliffband with horizontal cracks.o 2. Drunken Butterfly V3★★★ Left arête.– or Drunkenmaster V4, do the Childs PlayTraverse into Drunken Butterfly to finish.o 3. Player V0R/X★★ Left side of face withshort bulge and pocketed headwall.o 4. 5.10b/c★★ Face/Crack.o 5. Conch Crack 5.10b/c★★★ Short jamcrack. Leadable–pro to 3”.o 6. Nautilus 5.11a★★★★ Steep boltedpocket face.o 7. For Play 5.10a/b★★★ Steep bolted face.Anchor B: Bring 20’ slings for rocks.o 8. 5.7★ Short corner crack.Leadable–pro to 3”.o 9. 5.??★★ Unknown face over water.A235B46789122B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O S

Salt PointN O R T H C O A S TAnchor A: Rocks. Bring 8-12’ slings.o 10. Log Jam 5.9★★★ Crack roof/corner.Leadable–pro to 3.5”.BAAnchor B: Cracks and rocks. Bring 10-12’slings and pro to 3”.o 11. 5.5★★ Crack corner.Anchor C: 2 bolts. Bring 2-3’ slings.o 12. 5.10a★★ Face right of ear Hug.o 13. Bear Hug 5.6★★★ Squeeze the twinslab cracks–or 5.7 left or right crack.Leadable–pro to 3.5”.Anchor D: two bolts. Bring draws or onefootslings.o 14. Epiphany 5.10d★★★ Short splittercorner crack in dark brown dihedral.Leadable–pro to 2.5".1110o 15. Playtime 5.9★★★ Two-bolt face toledge to short steep finish past one morebolt to two-bolt anchor on top of face–threelead bolts.Playground Buttress–Southwest FaceClimbs listed right to left.DC1312151423F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

Salt PointN O R T H B A YPlayground Buttress–Northwest faceClimbs listed right to left.Anchor A: Two bolts. Bring draws or slings.o 15. Playtime 5.9★★★ Two-bolt face toledge to short steep finish past one morebolt to two-bolt anchor on top of face–threelead bolts.o 16. Sandboxer 5.9★★ Left face start toledge to same steep finish as Playtime TR.Anchor B: 10 to12’ slings around rocks.o 17. 5.6★★★ Corner crack/face.Leadable–pro to 4”.Anchor C: 10-12’ slings around rocks.o 18. 5.7-5.11★★ Various face routes.Anchor D: Two bolts. Bring 7-8’ slings.o 19. Jack of all Trades 5.9★★★ Sandysplitter crack classic. TR/Lead–pro to 2.5”.Richie Esquibel does Conch Crack. (5.10).o 20. 5.11a★★ Face left of Jack to same top.DCB17A201918161524B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O S

Salt PointN O R T H B A YLaurie Teevan on For Play (5.10a/b)Sea lions in a sheltered tide pool near the boulders just southof The Playground. Photo by Valentine Cullen25F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

A P P E N D I XAbout the AuthorsChris Summit (yes, it’s his real name) wasborn to climb but didn’t find it out until hewas about 17. A Northern California native,he started climbing and bouldering with hisfriends on the local crags,–Sugarloaf, GoatRock and Mt. St. Helena–and was instantlyaddicted! Since then his natural desirehas evolved into a passionate obsession,changing his life forever for the better. Inhis 20 years of climbing, Chris wrote thesmall guidebook for his hometown cragscalled The Wine Country Rocks and workedat North Bay climbing gyms setting routes,belaying, and teaching indoor and out. Hehas done many first ascents of sport climbs,traditional climbs, and boulder problems allover Northern California. His appetite fornew, high quality, unique, and challengingrocks to climb used to drive him to travelfar and wide. Now he travels less becausehe has found that what he is looking for isusually close to his front door.Valentine Cullen has been climbing, boogieboarding, hiking, swimming, and simplyenjoying the outdoors for as long as she canremember. A resident of Sonoma Countyfor 35 years, she also loves photographyand crafting. She earned a Bachelor’s degreein Creative Writing from Sonoma StateUniversity and published poems in SSU’sannual publication now called, Zaum.Valentine has been climbing for over 20years, starting on the local rocks, SugarloafRidge and the Sunset Boulders. Sheespecially enjoys bouldering and top ropinganywhere along the Northern Californiacoast on any sunny day. She now enjoyssharing all her favorite outdoor activitieswith her wonderful and inspirationaldaughter, Holly Anne Grinnell. They areboth particularly fond of climbing, boogieboarding and tide-pooling together.Val and Chris have been climbing andenjoying the outdoors in the Bay Areatogether since 1990.26B A Y A R E A T O P R O P E S : S U P E R T O P O SPhoto by Kira Marie

A P P E N D I X5.4Butt Crack 90Cote Memorial Wall 85Swiss Cheese 102Butt Crack 90Cote Memorial Wall 85Swiss Cheese 102SE Face 605.5Bat Crack 85Food Baby 41Split Slab 72The Cleavage 85Bat Crack 855.6Bear Hug 49Bucket Prow 80Castle Rock Cave 90Cragmont Crack 79Egg Arête 65Freeway 84Knobby Wall 111Seagull Arête 118Summit Route 101Sunset Slab 60The Split 73Begnners Cracks 110Cracked Wall 54Ttransportation Crack 785.7Butt Face Direct 90Cragmont Undercling 79Knobby Wall+ 111New Tradition 40Quarry Cracks 36Red Face 90Shwayze 114The Pod 110The Great Chimney 1105.8Climbs by RatingBuckets 60Butt Face 90Cave Route 90Center Face 102Chockstone 101Far 40Farther 40Fish N Game 47Hourglass 84Live and Learn 111Mystic 114Pidgeon Tunnel 90Ram Face 60Scorpio 111Something Good 40South Face 105Splitter 111Step To The Left 40Surprise 111Table Scraps 41Testpiece 110The Chickens are Breastless 40Tomahawk Arête 116Training Pants 111Triple Overhang 102Unconquerable 1105.9Beer Holder 114Beginners Crack 78Bubble Slab 38Cave Route 79Chounards Crack 89Cracker 116Dans Delight 111Dinkum 110Direct Crack 92East Face 101Egg Face 65Gardens of Babylon 111Grey Slab 64Jack of all Trades 50Jardinero 40Kola 40Log Jam 49Mangler 111Mystery Hole 40Peeper 64Plaque Face Left 80Plaque Face Right 80Playtime 49Pocket Face 95Red Face 104Red Slab 54Remilard Crack 80Sandboxer 50Saviour Heart 40Seymour Frishberg 40Shute/Mills 40Soul Sister Thunder 41Struggler 111Sunset Face 60The Corner 124The Falls 101The Flake 1245.10aAmazing Face 88Appertif 41Blowing Bubbles 105Calamari 118Farewell to Arms 79Farewell to Arms 101Feelin Your Oats 40Galapagos 54NE Face 60Pelican Arête 60Puckered Starfish 105Pull Up 84Red Arête 104Rust Never Sleeps 64The Crack 925.10a/bAtlas / Atlas Shrugged 40For Play 48Remilard Roof 805.10bBeach Blanket Matterhorn 118Grin and Bear It 84In Memorium 104Moss Ledge 795.10b/cAdhesion 110Conch Crack 48Free Willy 47Hermit Crack 107Left/Right 111Mastophilia 111Pebble Face 89Sea Serpent 46The Great Roof 102Watercourse 7827F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M