FOOD reviewsMelvin’s Deli Comfort501 E. 53rd, 705-3906Mon.-Fri., 11am-2pm, or laterwww.melvinsdelicomfort.com<strong>The</strong>re is no Melvin. <strong>The</strong> name is like thefamous blended words referenced byHumpty Dumpty when talking to Alice: “Yousee, it’s like a portmanteau – there are twomeanings packed into one word.” <strong>The</strong> nameoriginated when chums of Melinda andKevin Ennis decided that they should henceforthbe known collectively as Melvin – thinkspork, Desilu, or brunch. It works; togetherthey morph into the singular Melvin, aslightly off-kilter couple that excels at makingsome of <strong>Austin</strong>’s best sandwiches.Melinda is an insurance adjuster whoaccumulated enough money to start thebusiness that they had talked about openingfor years. Kevin earned his chops as alongtime manager/chef at a seafood restaurantin Alaska, where self-sufficiency isparamount; he had entertained friends andfamily with his culinary skills for years. Ahistory major, Kevin was devoted to producingauthentic sandwich meats, carefullyresearching, experimenting, and testingeach product. “Sandwiches was the onegenre that we couldn’t eat out at a restaurant.Hardly anyone here makes their ownmeats; they buy them from a supplier,” saysMelinda. “We wanted to change that.”<strong>The</strong>ir pride and joy, Melvin’s Deli Comfort,is situated in a gleaming red trailer on thesoutheast corner of 53rd and Duval. A coupleof picnic tables sit under a huge pecantree, and groovy tunes play on the soundsystem. Open for a little over a month, businessis slowly building, and all reports havebeen glowing.While I sat and waited for <strong>Chronicle</strong> photographerJohn Anderson to show up, I wastortured by the smell of housemade applewood-smokedbacon wafting from inside(think Homer drool). We ordered strategicallyso that we could try all of the meats,which Kevin and sidekick cook Eddie producein-house; they make all of their productsexcept the sauerkraut and the bread.Our first sandwich was a Hot ItalianBeef ($8): a big stack of thin slices of tenderroast beef (Choice, Black Angus) warmed injus, with sautéed green peppers, gooey provolone,and spicy pepper giardiniera, on acrunchy sub roll; riding shotgun is a tub ofrich, garlicky jus for dipping. Every aspectof the sub was spot-on; this could competewith the elite in Chicago. Next came thepastrami Reuben ($9), a massive mound offlavorful pastrami on grilled rye, withRussian dressing, kraut, and melty Swiss.Sorry, Spec’s Deli; your wonderful Reubenjust got blown completely out of the waterby Melvin.<strong>The</strong> Daily Special, a Turkey BLT ($8),arrived next. Excellent white bread encaseda mountain of sliced turkey, with ripe heirloomtomato, Swiss, lettuce, aioli, and amazinglygood smoked bacon. “We rub, age, andthen smoke the bellies over applewood,”says Kevin. “It’s great bacon.” Last was theCroque Monsieur ($9), the world’s bestgrilled cheese, filled with sweet, homemader.O.’s Outpostp h o t o s b y j o h n a n d e r s o nham, gruyère, and house mustard, all coveredwith a molten blanket of gruyère andbéchamel sauce. It’s messy, but delicious.Mel also brought me a taste of their wonderfulcorned beef, which melts in your mouth.<strong>The</strong> only thing they didn’t have that daywas the pork belly confit. “I take trimmedbellies and poach them in pig fat for 10hours,” says Kevin. “<strong>The</strong>n we slice and grillit and pair it with mustard greens and brie.”It’s Homer time again; I will return for thatluscious sparkling jewel.All of their sandwiches come with excellent,crispy, garlicky home-cured picklesand crispy housemade potato chips, madefrom new potatoes. “We have the pickles andchips dialed in now,” says Melinda. “Peoplelove them.” I know we loved them, andeverything else we ate at Melvin’s. Ingredientsare of the highest quality, quantities arelarge, service is friendly, prices are very reasonable,and the flavors are outstanding.This is how a sandwich should be made.– Mick VannRecently RevieweDChina Dynasty offers all of your family’s favorites ataffordable prices, without MSG. Flavors are based on richstocks, and sauces contain a minimum of oil. <strong>The</strong> deepfrieditems are crispy, and what lies under the thin batterare fresh ingredients. 2110 W. Slaughter Ln. #101.Elaine’s Pork & Pie This tiny snuggery seems like itjumped out of a postage stamp. <strong>The</strong>re is pulled pork,and there are pies. But there’s also a terrific lentil soup.<strong>The</strong> bourbon buttermilk pie and ancho-chocolate browniepie are standouts. 2113 Manor Rd.Pinthouse Pizza This new and highly anticipated friendsand-familyjoint on Burnet Road makes it easy to settleinto a friendly din and dig in to some cheesy comfortfood. Five proprietary brews, as well as an impressiveroster of other microbrews, await you. 4729 Burnet Rd.R.O.’s Outpost Located about 400 yards west of itsold location in a 24-foot chrome yellow trailer, withmagnificent sunsets from the hills above the PedernalesValley, sits R.O.’s. Pork ribs are St. Louis cuts, and thepork loin is meltingly tender. Smoked turkey breastand smoky sausage round out the options.22518 Hwy 71 W., Spicewood.38 T H E A U S T I N C H R O N I C L E JANUARY 18, 2013 a u s t i n c h r o n i c l e . c o m
40 divya srinivasan 56 film listings@ACScreensFurther r e A ding ‘<strong>The</strong>RevoluT ion Was Televised’<strong>The</strong> sitcom isn't the only television artform to undergo a seismic shift in the lasttwo decades. TV critic Alan Sepinwall examinesthe so-called “millennial dramas” in hisself-published <strong>The</strong> Revolution Was Televised:<strong>The</strong> Cops, Crooks, Slingers and Slayers WhoChanged TV Drama Forever. Careful TVwatchers already know the impact of HBO’sOz and <strong>The</strong> Sopranos and their trickle-downeffect on AMC, FX, and even the occasionalnetwork (NBC’s Friday Night Lights); whereSepinwall’s 12-case study really distinguishesitself is in the many revealing interviews with the major playersbehind the TV drama revolution.– Kimberley JonesGoodbye to This Millennium’sMust-See TVHow ‘30 Rock’ ResHaped tHe sitcom foR tHe digital ageby Aleksander Chan<strong>The</strong>re was a blink-and-you-miss-it moment in 30 Rock’s secondseason that made it obvious Tina Fey’s show about ashow had become a millennial-age banner bearer. It’s amoment so tossed off as to seem inconsequential, and yet:It announced that 30 Rock is – and soon to be was, when theshow goes off-air Jan. 31 – a comedy made from and for theInternet age.It was in the season’s second episode, “Jack Gets in theGame.” Tracy (Tracy Morgan), the outré star of fictional sketchprogram <strong>The</strong> Girlie Show, has just been thrown out by his wife.As he recounts memorabilia collected throughout his career,the show lends immortal potency to an ephemeral detail:Tracy: “This is my key to the city of Gary, Indiana! … Andmy gold record from [my] novelty party song.”Cut to Tracy, dressed in a haphazard werewolf costume,shown singing and performing the song “Werewolf BarMitzvah” in a cheap, “Thriller”-like Halloween video: “WerewolfBar Mitzvah! Spoo-ky! Scare-y! Boys becomin’ men ... menbecomin’ wolves.”It was a mere seconds-long cutaway – long enough foryour senses to register its creative genius, but brief enoughthat if you looked down at your phone, you missed it. 30Rock, which debuted in 2006, produced so many bitsprimed for YouTube immortality, where the show’s archhumor could live intact online, in isolation and removed fromcontext. In that moment – among so many rapid-fire nonsequiturs, pop culture callouts, and general Simpsons-ianmania – you didn’t need to know what episode “WerewolfBar Mitzvah” was from, or even that you were watching 30Rock, for it to register as funny.30 Rock – and really all of NBC’s rotating lineup of criticallylauded but often lousily rated sitcoms, which includes <strong>The</strong>Office (also signing off this year), Community (its prospectsdimming after showrunner Dan Harmon’s ousting), and Parksand Recreation – rose mightily to the challenge of making episodicTV in an era where the Web has made every facet ofentertainment episodic. Because online, everything is in bitsand pieces: on one site, but not the other; fabulous on itsown, and even better together.<strong>The</strong>se shows became comedies of the Internet’s deconstruction,easily disassembled into their defining catchphrases:“Blurgh.” “That’s what she said.” “Treat yo self.” “Darkesttimeline.” But there’s an Internet-era complexity to thisdeconstruction: Each of those individual zingers, memes, andviral moments, their individual ingredients, work completelyon their own and as assembled by their creators. Just as aWeb page is made up of its individual bits of code, an episodeof 30 Rock could play like YouTube clips sequencedtogether by Tina Fey.30 Rock also stood out because its movements mimickedthe constant, speedy clip of the Web. Seconds after Tracy’s“Werewolf Bar Mitzvah” interlude is another, different aside.And then another one. And after that, more still – for a full 22minutes, it’s a continuous succession of punchlines, visualgags, and perfect retorts. While we may be living in a goldenage of television drama, for a time no other shows were ableto understand and reflect the high-speed Internet generation’ssense of humor in as fundamental a way. (New showslike Happy Endings, Don’t Trust the Bitch in Apartment 23,Raising Hope, and New Girl have since expanded the field.)30 Rock and its NBC brethren not only riffed on the goofy,pop culture heavy nature of the Web, they did it by replicatingthe way it works – meta, in the funniest way.nJogging Toward MarchsXsw film announces opening nigHt film,teXas film Hall of fame picks 2013 inducteesOn Tuesday, the South by Southwest FilmFestival announced <strong>The</strong> Incredible BurtWonderstone (pictured) as its 2013 opening-nightfilm. <strong>The</strong> comedy stars SteveCarell and Steve Buscemi as Vegas illusioniststhreatened by an upstart magicianplayed by Jim Carrey. Also announced werethe world premieres of Fede Alvarez’s warilyanticipated Evil Dead remake; JoeSwanberg’s comedy Drinking Buddies, starringAnna Kendrick and Olivia Wilde; andAlex Winter’s Napster doc, <strong>Downloaded</strong>. Formore on SXSW Film, which runs March8-16, and the first wave of programming,see austinchronicle.com/blogs/screens.Preceding SXSW Film’s kickoff is theannual eve-of party, the Texas Film Hall ofFame Awards. Also on Tuesday (busy day,eh?), the <strong>Austin</strong> Film Society announcedthis year’s actor inductees: Henry Thomas(E.T., Gangs of New York), Robin Wright(<strong>The</strong> Princess Bride, Forrest Gump),Annette O’Toole (Superman III, Smallville),and character actor par excellenceStephen Tobolowsky (Groundhog Day).Richard Linklater’s Dazed and Confusedwill receive the Star of Texas Award, to beaccepted by Parker Posey. For more on theMarch 7 event, see www.austinfilm.org.– K.J.a u s t i n c h r o n i c l e . c o m JANUARY 18, 2013 T H E A U S T I N C H R O N I C L E 39
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