ICELANDIC TIMES - Land og saga

www.alafoss.isHotel Budir in Snæfellsnes peninsulaThe hotel’simmediatesurroundings arequite remarkableand it is wellworth exploringthe historicalbackground of thesite, which oncehoused a prominenttrading centre.An Unforgettable Stay Underneath a GlacierThe exceptionally warm summerwill soon come to an end givingvisitors the chance to experiencethe “true” Iceland. There is reallyno feeling that beats stayingunder a towering glacier with thenorthern lights dancing abovewhile enjoying some genuineIcelandic delicacies.Hótel Búðir on the Snæfellsnespeninsula gives guests the chanceto do exactly that – it is positionedclose to the majestic and inspiringSnæfellsjökull glacier and is knownto be one of the best sites in Icelandto gaze at the often elusive northernlights. The hotel’s immediatesurroundings are quite remarkableand it is well worth exploring thehistorical background of the site,which once housed a prominenttrading centre.Hotel Budir is renowned for its topquality restaurant. When possible,the restaurant uses only localmaterials, be it fish from the localmarkets or salad dressings made fromlocal flowers. During the autumnand winter months, be sure to try theseasonal wild game dishes.1896The hotel can accommodate bothindividuals and groups of all sizes andis ideal for workshops or companymeetings. Hotel Budir is only a twohour drive from Reykjavík, offeringthe peace and quiet of the country,while not too far away from maintransport hubs and cultural intrigue.For business travel, the hotel canaccommodate up to workshops for100 people and has a fully equipped40 person conference room. Forsmaller meetings there are severalsmaller rooms around the hotelsuited for that purpose (be sureto enquire about the cartographyroom.) All technical equipment issupplied on location.Whether on a business trip orrelaxing holiday, the Snæfellsnespeninsula itself offers abundantactivities and attractions such ashiking, glacier snowmobiling, fishingand many more.The rooms are very comfortableand come in various sizes. Everyroom comes with a TV, DVD,telephone, clock wireless net anda hairdryer. Breakfast is included.For more information and bookinggo to www.hotelbudir.isSJÁALDRIÐ 2010WOOL SWEATERS,BLANKETS & ACCESORIES,TRADITIONAL CRAFTSAND MODERN ARTWARMTH FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY!ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23MOSFELLSBÆROPEN: MON -FRI 9:00 - 18:00& SAT 9:00 - 16:008

–Dill RestaurantVibrant originality with Nordic ingredientsNot far south of the pondin downtown Reykjavik, anextraordinary building, the NordicHouse, designed by the famousFinnish architect Alvar Aalto, isnow home to one of the premierrestaurants in Iceland, Dill. For itsinnovative creations that pleasethe eye and tantalize the palette,award-winning Dill has beenhighly praised as a world-classrestaurant.The owners of Dill, Gunnar Karland Ólafur are pioneers in the NewNordic Kitchen, a culinary movementthat puts emphasis on presentingclassic Nordic ingredients in a newand exciting way. In 2008 the pairfulfilled their dreams by openingthe restaurant in the best possiblelocation for a Nordic restaurant. Eventhe most minute detail in the NordicHouse was designed by Alvar Aaltohimself, right down to the tiles on thefloor. Furthermore, the view from Dillis breathtaking, extending over a quietbird sanctuary towards the old townand up to the hilltop Hallgrímskirkja.The chefs at Dill have elevated simplelocal ingredients to a work of art andis experience in itself. Guests shouldplan on an entire evening to samplelocal dishes at their seasonal best.Nearly all the ingredients come fromIceland, and if not, then from theother Nordic countries. Accordingto Ólafur, it is more or less only theoil which has to be imported fromoutside of Scandinavia.in new and exciting ways. It alsodisplays the experimental side of Dill,”burning” the ingredients to createnew flavours.Ólafur mentions that the winterseason certainly challenges Dill asthe chefs concentrate on using onlyIcelandic ingredients. But duringthe short growing season, the staffat Dill gather berries, herbs andseaweed, afterwards conservingthem for the wintertime. “We alsopick mushrooms that we dry andthen we use plenty of root vegetablesduring the winter,” says Ólafur.Lunch guests have a chance tosample the Dill in a more rustic style;traditional Icelandic dishes, such as“plokkfiskur”, are infused with a NewNordic energy, served in clay pots atthe tables. For the evening, the stafftakes out the best silverware and putson their best clothes to create a veryspecial dining experience. Even so,the atmosphere retains the intimateyet informal vibe for which Dill isfamous, as the restaurant is rathersmall, seating only 30 guests.The purpose of the New NordicKitchen is, among other things, topromote the understanding of themany culinary possibilities of theNordic ingredients, as their qualityand variety are unknown to most.Thus, the excellent service at Dillincludes a thorough explanationabout each dish, its origins and itspreparation.Dining at Dill, guests fully experiencelocal dishes in a new context. Theexperimental and original thinkingDill Restaurant has, without doubt,gained a unique position, garneringfor itself a famed reputation, both athome and abroad.Dill restaurant | Norræna húsinu |Sturlugötu 5 | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 5521522 | dillrestaurant@dillrestaurant.is| www.dillrestaurant.is.We are one of the leading tour operatorsin Iceland and offer professional services,flexibility and safety for travellers in Iceland.Allow us to introduce you to the varietythat Iceland has to offer; from it’s richnessin culture and history to its breathtakingbeauty in nature and daily life.Enjoy Iceland withIceland Excursions – Gray Line IcelandGullfossNorthern LightsTaste the SagaÞingvellir National ParkWestman IslandsLimiting their ecological footprintas much as possible is important toDill, as well as using mostly organicproducts. The menu is seasonal;each week the owners arrange a newseven-course tasting menu completewith a wine list to match each course.In autumn, Icelandic game such asreindeer, geese and duck, featureprominently on the menu. Dill evenhas its own hunters to ensure absolutefreshness and the highest possiblequality. Other examples of temptingtreats include: salted salmon andcapelin roe in mayonnaise, smokedwith hay, skyr and söl, or the lamb filletwith onions, pickled onions, creamedkale and sorrel sauce. Even this brief,mouth-watering list demonstratesthe emphasis on traditional cookingmethods, such as smoking, used10Day ToursContact usTel.: +354 540 1313Email: iceland@grayline.isDay ToursDay ToursDay Tours2010Day ToursDay ToursDay ToursDay ToursVisit our sales office at Lækjartorg square,call us at (+354) 540 1313 or go to www.grayline.is.&Day ToursActivities FREE COPYATVGeysir AreaRiver Rafting Blue Lagoon Skógafoss Whale WatchingGullfossVestmannaeyjarJökulsárlónVisit our sales office downtown at Lækjartorg or go to www.grayline.is

Fjorubordid in StokkseyriA Feast Fit for KingsThere are several „must-sees“when it comes to tourist attractionsin Iceland – The Blue Lagoon,Gullfoss and Geysir, Þingvellir anda cosy seaside lobster restaurantin the quiet town of Stokkseyri.For over 15 years Fjorubordid hasbeen satisfying customers from allover the world to great acclaim. It iscustomary when Iceland receivesprominent visitors to take them ona tour of Iceland‘s most interestinglocations and it is not uncommonthat such tours end in Fjorubordid.Whether it be famous rock starsand actors, respected politicians andworld leaders or members of royaltyFjorubordid has served them all.The restaurant is located on theocean shore (in fact the name roughlytranslates as the seaside) giving asplendid view to set the mood. Therestaurant‘s interiors and surroundingsare quite humble and modest, but canaccommodate groups of all sizes.The main attractions however are thelobster dishes, which Fjorubordid isfamous for. The staple Village Lobsteris a perennial favourite which is grilledin garlic butter, served with bread andvarious sauces. The lobster soup is todie for! – as Fjorubordid‘s proprietorsclaim that many Icelanders andvisitors risk travelling from the capitalduring hail storms and risky weatherjust for a taste of the soup. The lobsterfeast is a dining experience you won‘tsoon forget. With up to 400 gramsof lobster, lobster soup and somehomemade pastries are sure to leaveyou satisfied, just be sure to bring yourappetite.The town of Stokkseyri is definitelyworth a visit in itself – a tranquilformer fishing and trading centrewhere the people are friendly andthe food is good. Stokkseyri nowhouses one of the scariest museumsyou‘ll ever come across – The GhostCentre, as well as a Wildlife Museumwhere you can see a large numberof Icelandic mammals and birds aswell as mammals from Africa andGreenland, including a shouldermount of musk ox, full mount polarbear, giraffe as well as full mount lions,male and a female.For more information visit www.fjorubordid.is12

Iceland ExcursionsTaste the Saga and Visitthe Pompei of the NorthOne of the most experiencedtour companies in the country –Iceland Excursions – is always onthe lookout for new and excitingadventures to make your stay inIceland more memorable. Thelatest additions to the company’salready extensive array of excitingtours are a visit to the Pompei ofthe North in the Vestmen Islandsand a tour through Iceland‘s oldestbrewery in Taste the Saga tour.today. You’ll have a chance to drinkmodern day favourite beer brands,the famous Malt and Appelsín mixand a shot of the infamous Brennivínliquoir, which is produced in Ölgerðin’sdistillery.and the youngest celebrated its 40thanniversary in 2003.The Pompei of the North tourincludes a bus ride to the Bakkafjarapier and a ferry across to the islands.There you will take a bus tour aroundthe largest island of Heimaey, whereamongst other things you will meetthe colourful puffins at Cape Storhofdiand take a walk up to a volcanic craterwhich erupted only a few years ago,.The volcanic eruption of 1963 wasTaste the SagaIcelandic drinking habits havebecome quite famous in recenttimes and more and more peoplevisit Iceland just to explore the wildnightlife in downtown Reykjavik.Iceland Excursions now offers you achance to explore Iceland‘s heritageof drinking in a tour through Iceland‘soldest brewery – Ölgerðin.While exploring the brewery youwill be entertained by stories aboutIceland‘s quirky drinking culture –both as it was in the past and as it is16Pompei of the NorthOne doesn’t often get a chanceto explore the awesome power ofmother nature first hand, but youreally can’t get much closer to it thanin the Westmen Islands As a resultof volcanic eruptions from below theocean surface the islands were formedat various points in time – the oldestisland over 40 thousand years agoa devastating event for the locals ofVestmanneyjar as over 400 houseswere covered by the eruption, forcingall of the island’s inhabitants toevacuate their homes and belongings.Much like in the famous ruins ofPompei a new excavation projectgives visitors a chance to see howthe homes of Vestmannaeyjar werecovered in lava and ash over 40 yearsago. By digging into the mounds ofash archaeologists have discoveredthat some of the homes were left insurprisingly good condition afterbeing covered in ash all this time.The houses have been marked withinformative signposts where you canlearn how the awesome power ofmother nature affected the lives ofthe hardworking people of VestmenIslands.Wide Variety of Day ToursIceland Excursions offers a widevariety of day tours all year longcovering all of Iceland’s most excitinglocations and activities. Whether youwant to relax in the Blue Lagoon,snowmobile across glaciers, chasethe northern lights or combine stapleattractions with exciting activitiesIceland Excursions is guaranteed tosatisfy.Iceland Excursions place greatemphasis on providing its customerswith optimal safety and comfortby providing up to date vehiclesand technology. In 2004 IcelandExcursions was given the formalGrayline Worldwide Franchise inIceland. Grayline is the world leaderin sightseeing, ground transportationservices and unique tours at over 150destinations around the world.For more information and bookingvisit www.greyline.isExperience thepower of natureHekla Volcanic Body Scrub is a powerfulenergizing exfoliant that will clear away dead skincells and impurities to let fresh, invigorated and silkysmooth skin emerge to the surface.Hekla contains uplifting aromatic essential oils thatpush away stress and anxiety, filling you with volcanicenergy!The perfect anti-aging duoThe Rose Wonder is a rich and luxurious facialmoisturizer containing only the very best ingredients thatwork to diminish the signs of aging, while providing theperfect nutrition for your skin.Purity Herbs Facial Serum is densly packed withgoodness, containing herbs and oils that repair, regenerateand revitalize the skin – giving tired skin an extra boost.Treat yourself a healthy, youthful glow100% nature from Icelandfor those who (skin) careAt Purity Herbs, we create 100% natural, high quality skin care products using synergistic blends of Icelandic herbs, naturalspring water and genuine essential oils. Each handcrafted product is a unique formulation working to deliver visible results.Purity Herbs uses only Earth friendly ingredients that provide maximum effectiveness. We do not test on animals.To see our complete range of skincare products, suited for all skin types, visit www.purityherbs.isAvailable at: Duty Free Keflavik airport, Nature Baths Myvatn, Islandia Kringlan, Isbjörninn Laugarvegi, Gullfoss Café,Hof Akureyri and Pharmacy and health stores all over IcelandPurity Herbs · Akureyri · Iceland www.purityherbs.is info@purityherbs.is

The Lobster HouseMade From the Finest Materials AvailableThe “Icelandic Lobster” is adelicacy you simply must tryduring your stay in Iceland andfew are more experienced inpreparing delicious lobster dishesthan The Lobster House, situatedin the heart of Reykjavík.However, what most Icelanders calllobster is probably not what you thinkit is. The crustacean on offer in TheLobster House is actually a muchsmaller species called langoustinewhich is commonly found in thenorth-eastern Atlantic Ocean andNorth Sea. The langoustine is usuallyaround 17 cm (6.7 inches) in lengthand weighs up to 400g, whereas thecommon lobster usually ranges from8-16 inches. The history of commerciallangoustine fishing in Iceland onlydates back around fifty years, butsince its introduction to the Icelandiccuisine it has been considered one ofthe top gourmet materials available.The langoustine‘s smaller sizehowever does not mean less taste– on the contrary the chefs at TheLobster House claim that it outshinesthe common lobster in most aspects.“Even though it is smaller than thelobster most people are used to, I havefound that the giant lobster doesn’tcome anywhere near the langoustinewhen it comes to taste and texture. Thelangoustine is considerably softer andthe taste is much more concentrated.It is one of the bests possible materialsa chef can work with, making myjob that much easier,” says one of theLobster House’s expert chefs, OttóMagnússon.But appearances can be deceiving andOttó says that it is not uncommon tosee a look of surprise on the faces ofcustomers when they receive a plateof these relatively small crustaceans,thinking a mistake has been made.„They are often sceptical at first, butafter the first bite their doubts areremoved instantly,“ says Ottó.The most popular dish in The LobsterHouse is the grilled lobster with garlic,a dish most Icelanders savour onsunny summer evenings. But as thename implies the chefs at The LobsterHouse are experts in coming up withinnovative ideas on preparing thisdelicacy.The Lobster House is located inone of Reykjavík´s oldest houseson Amtmansstígur 1, which wasoriginally built in 1838. If you arewalking north, away from the pondtowards the sea on the right side ofLækjargata you should notice a clusterof old houses behind a small peculiargarden with an oversized chess board.On the most prominent buildingyou´ll see a sign with the langoustineon it and inside the feast awaits.Further information is available onwww.humarhusid.isRight in theHeart of ReykjavikRadisson BLU 1919 Hotel is a superbly designed four star hotel locatedright in the heart of the city. Housed in one of the city’s historicalbuildings, the 1919 Hotel offers an interesting balance of classicelements with contemporary design and furnishings.The 1919 Hotel focuses on offering guests a high standard of service,quality and comfort to enjoy while in Reykjavik. Since opening, thehotel has been awarded such prestigious honors as Iceland’s LeadingHotel 4 years consecutively by the World Travel Awards as well as oneof the Top 25 Business Hotels in Europe voted by CNBC Europe.Whether in the city for business or pleasure, the hotel strives to makeyour stay comfortable. Our staff will be happy to assist you witharrangements for transportation, excursions or reservations.As a guest you will have complimentary access to the on site Fitnesscentre and Business centre. During your stay we invite you to use theConcierge Service of our Front OfficeWithin walking distance from the hotel you will find yourself prettymuch wherever you need to go in the downtown area. Whether you areheaded to a meeting or just looking to do some exploring or shopping,it can all be found right in the city centre. Transportation can bearranged for you at the hotel.The Restaurant and Lounge; famous for it‘s prime „people watching“ location,classic cocktail lounge and now with a new menu intertwining tastes fromaround the world with the finest ingredients from IcelandThe most populardish in The LobsterHouse is the grilledlobster with garlic, adish most Icelanderssavour on sunnysummer evenings.For more information:www.radissonblu.com/1919hotel-reykjavikReservations.1919.reykjavik@radissonblu.comTel. +354 599 100018

Blowing hot steam in HveravellirMarketa & TimCapturing IcelandÞingvallakirkjawhose aim was to teach chess tonative Inuit children. “I loved theidea that the chess club wanted tohelp the children learn to play chess.The kids learned quickly and had somuch fun. They even organised atournament with the winners gettinga chance to come to Iceland to learnhow to swim. It was especiallymemorable for me to capture the joyin the faces of these Inuit children asthey learned a new skill. One of mydreams is to be able to do more of thiskind of work, because sponsors needto be able to see just how thankfuland appreciative needy children arewhen they receive charity of anykind....it’s priceless”“There is so much potential inIceland and it is our hope to beable to use our talents to help localbusiness and social projects moveforward” says Markéta.See more of Tim and Markéta’sphotography at the followingWebsites:Flickr.comfineartamerica.comtimvollmer.demarketakalvachova.comin Facebook:Tim-Vollmer-PhotographyMarketa-Kalvachova-PhotographyPuffin with nest materials in beak-the fine-art nature photography of Tim Vollmer and Markéta KalvachováIceland, being the photographer’sparadise that it is, does not lackfor camera toting enthusiasts ofevery hue and genre, but theworks of photographers TimVollmer and Markéta Kalvachováare nothing short of aweinspiring.Tim arrived from Germany in2005 and Markéta from the CzechRepublic in 2006. They met inthe summer of 2006 and soonestablished a common bond,sharing the same love for Iceland,which is clearly portayed in theirphotography. “Trying to capturethe stillness of the mountains, thepurity and crispness of the air, or thehaunting isolationof a remote fjord is not easy”, Timexplains.Jðkulsarlón, with stops at all themost photogenic locations along theway including the thermal area ofHveragerði, the 19th century housesof Eyrarbakki, SeljalandsfossSkogarfoss, Dyrholaey, Vík andthe Jökulsarlón glacial lagoonamongst others. Summer tours ofthe south coast which will includeThingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir, thefamed “Golden Circle” of Iceland arealso being planned.Tim is a man with an eye fordetails. “My mother was alwaysworking with textures in her variouscollages,and I love to capture texturein my photography,” he says. Heespecially loves the challenge ofcapturing the textures of the lavafields...the lichen, the moss andthe curious lava formations foundthroughout Iceland. For her part,Markéta specialises in panoramicviews with her favorite area tophotograph being the HengillVolcanic System with its eerie yetenchanting stillness.In 2006, Tim travelled to EastGreenland to document a jointproject by the Chess Club of Icelandand the University of Iceland andGeysir “Strokkur”Happy icelandic foalAt the moment they are in theprocess of preparing to launch a 5day winter photography workshopwhich will span the south coastof the country from Reykjavik toPanorama from Morsárdalur20 21Detail of LavaFloating icebergs in Jökulsárlón

–Borgarfjörður Eystri and the Deserted InletsLegendary Untouched Natural SplendorAmong Icelanders, the vicinityof Borgarfjörður is known for itsspectacular natural beauty. This isa hidden gem of a place that hasbeen left undisturbed by masstourism.In Bakkagerði, a village inBorgarfjörður, the locals, who totalaround 130, live in close proximitywith nature. In the idyllic countrysetting, life continues calm andsustainable, free from the hustleand bustle of hectic urban life. Itis the perfect place to relax andget in touch with nature. The areahas plenty to offer - in particular,a tremendous variety of hikingroutes through the lands of elfinlegends.Borgarfjörður Eystri, the northernmostof Iceland’s eastern fjords, lies at theend of a lovely road – the perfectplace to stopover. Only an hour’sdrive off Highway 1, travelling toBorgarfjörður eystri will offer visitorsthe rare opportunity to experience agenuine Icelandic fishing village thatstill maintains its seaside lifestyle of thesmall family fisheries. This closeknitcommunity of people is renowned forwarm, friendly hospitality. The localcuisine consists of the high qualityingredients of the region, like the freshfish brought in every day.There is no lack of hiking optionsaround Borgarfjörður, with about27 day-routes nearby. A multitudeof these hiking routes lie in an areacommonly called Víknaslóðir, orthe Trail of the Deserted Inlets, thatencompasses the various inlets thatlie between Loðmundarfjörður andaround Borgarfjörður. The area hasa dense net of well marked hikingroutes as well as some exemplaryfacilities for hikers.Hiking in Víknaslóðir is a uniqueexperience. The mountains come inall shapes and sizes and the varietyof colours is stunning; everythingfrom the black sands of the beachesto the pinkish orange hues of theA puffin couple in love in Hafnarhólmamountain ridges. The trails windthemselves between isolated covesand fjords over colourful hills andthrough green valleys all the wayWith a little luck, reindeer herds canbe seen, not to mention the local birdsthat are abundant and the arctic floracharacterized by its large flowers anddown to the coast. Abandoned vivacious colours.houses and ruins of ancient farmsput their mark on the surroundings. In total, there are around 150 kmof trails with countless possibilities,whether they be long or short, throughunearthly landscapes. Dyrfjöll,Breiðavík, Brúnavík, Hvítserkur,Urðarhólar, and Loðmundarfjörðurare just a few of the places not to bemissed. This is the land of legends.The local folklore is fascinating andat last count 172 folk stories dealingwith elves take place in the region.Even a short jaunt along one of thespellbindingly beautiful paths willcaptivate the imagination.The most dramatic mountains ofeast Iceland are Dyrfjöll (1136m)at the entrance to the wonderfulBorgarfjörður region. This giganticbreach, hundreds of feet across, splitsits main ridge and dominates theskyline with vertical black walls.One of Iceland’s best-kept secrets,Stórurð (Boulder Hollow), lies at theheart of Dyrfjöll. It is a mysteriousand unearthly place, a labyrinth ofenormous rocks through which a littleriver winds its way and calm turquoiseponds of icy water lie hidden amongthe huge boulders, lined by flat banksof short green grass. An expanse ofenormous rocks intersected by asmall river. It is certainly a mysteriousand enchanting place, and you will behard-pressed to leave.While hiking towards Stórurð, you’llbe able to enjoy an amazing viewsouth towards Fljótsdalur. On a clearday, one can see all the way to thehighest mountain of the East, Snæfell.Meanwhile, Breiðavík and Brúnavík,two inlets south of Borgafjörður,contain vast, black beaches withSiberian driftwood. The way toBreiðavík from Borgarfjörður is atapestry of pastel coloured hillsides.The incredible colour comes from thepresence of rhyolite in the mountains.The valley of Borgarfjörður has alsoplenty to offer. The sheep trails windingtheir way up to Dimmidalur (theDark Valley) and Jökuldalur (GlacierValley) offer a rugged but beautifullandscape, right under Dyrfjöll. Thisroute goes through the elf communityof Lobbuhraun. According to localfolklore, the elves make their home inDimmidalur valley, but Borgarfjörðuris considered to be a central provinceof the elves in Iceland. Elves are oftencalled the “hidden people” becauseof how difficult it is to see them.Nowadays there are Icelanders whodistinguish between hidden peopleand elves, but in 19th century folklorethese two terms are synonymous.Bakkagerði in Borgarfjörður. Svartfell in the back.from the residency of the Icelandicelf-queen. Álfaborg (Elf Rock, ElfHill) is a rocky outcropping right nextto Bakkagerði. An easy path leadsto the top, which has a panoramicviewpoint. Álfaborg is a reserved areaand an interesting place to visit.In Icelandic folklore, the elves areIn Víknaslóðum. Dyrfjöll in the background.often described as similar to humans,but taller, fairer and more beautiful.Their residency (inside the rocks) issimilar to that of 19th century Iceland,although a bit more refined. Elvesare often said to help humans out,especially those bullied by their fellowhumans.In Bakkagerði, there is a blue flagharbour, which is only used for smallboats as the local fishermen only sailout for day fishing and return to thevillage each night.The harbour is located near toHafnarhólmi, which is connected toa small islet, with bustling birdlife,especially puffins. The Puffin is a smallbird that commonly makes holes inthe turf, in and above cliffs. Therefore,it can generally be hard to catch a goodsight of the bird. But not here in theharbour, a nice observation platformis just beside the islet, allowing peopleto view the birds within a range of twometers. About 10.000 pairs of puffinsnest every summer in Borgarfjörður,from the latter part of April until mid-August. Among other common birdspecies nesting there are the Fulmar,Kittiwake and the Eider duck.Iceland has a largely unspoilednature and vast areas where there isnot a soul in sight. Trekking aroundBorgarfjörður Eystri is one way toexperience this unspoiled nature tothe fullest. The “Trail of the DesertedInlets” takes visitors from one of thiscountry’s great natural monuments,Stórurð, through mountains ablaze inresplendent colours, along one of thecountry’s most magnificent coastlines.For an experience of untouchedwilderness and pristine landscape inthe peace of the deserted fjords andinlets, Borgarfjörður eystri is the placeto visit.More information is available onThe natureparadise Stórurð.The fjord actually derives its nameAn elveswoman strolling.puffins.is and borgarfjordureystri.is24 25

SeyðisfjörðurThe Charming Natural Pearl of East IcelandThe road to Seydisfjördur crossesFjarðarheiði, a mountain rangewhich has over the centuriespresented a huge obstacle to travel,but is now reduced to a mere 30minutes. Commanding views fromFjarðarheiði and the road leadingdown to the fjord is one of Iceland’smost spectacular.The small but charming villageof around 700 inhabitants, isdistinguished by its collection ofwell preserved and colourful timberhouses from the early 20th century.Seyðisfjörður is considered by many tobe one of the most picturesque townsin Iceland, also known for its thrivingart scene. In the center of town risesthe pretty “Blue Church”, which servesas the local centre for music, whilethe Skaftfell Art Center is dedicatedto the visual arts, with its focus oncontemporary arts. Artists, art loversand visitors from all over Iceland andabroad convene at the annual LungAart festival in July. Mostly aimed at theupcoming generation of young artists,the festival has become one of themain art events of the year in Iceland.Seyðisfjörður also has its own historicalmuseum with lively exhibitions thatseek to recreate the atmosphere ofthe times they portray; from 1880to 1950 technical innovations inareas such as mechanics, electricity,communications, telephony, commerceand architecture changed forever thedynamics of the Icelandic way of life,bringing it swiftly into the modern era.It was here that the first telephone linelinking Iceland to the outside worldwas built. Other historical links includethe Norræna ferry, a north Atlanticferry that connects Iceland to the FaroeIsland and Denmark, which docks atSeyðisfjörður, making it the only placein Iceland where you can travel abroadwith a car.Recreational highlights includemidnight kayaking on the fjord (in summer only), attempting thechallenging “Seven Peaks Hike”,mountain biking, sea angling and birdwatching at Skalnes. Guided toursof historic Seyðisfjörður can also bearranged.A fun factIn the latter part of the 19th century,Iceland still didn´t have a proper capitol.The intellectual elite were aware of theproblem and much back and forthdiscussion took place before it wasdecided that Reykjavík would be thebest spot for the capitol of the future.Along with Akureyri, Seyðisfjörðurwas one of the candidates, since itwas easier to sail to Europe fromSeyðisfjörður than from any other ofthe towns in question.www.visitseydisfjordur.comSea fishing in beautiful Seydisfjordur fjord, in the safe hands of a localfisherman Tour for up to 7 people, rods for 4 people at a time.For more information please contact+354 861 7789 / ferdamenning@sfk.is28

Síldarvinnslan:A big wheel in a small communitySíldarvinnslan is based in thetown of Neskaupstaður in EasternIceland. This town was orginallyprimarily a cod fishing town, butin the fifties it started to changecourse, processing the abundantherring offshore. The sixties werethe golden age of herring, and thecompany flourished.Then the herring disappeared,but the company diversified andstarted fishing other kinds of fish,both pelagic fish like capelin andalso demersal species like codand haddock. Síldarvinnslan isnow one of the largest companiesin the Icelandic fishing industry,operating in 3 towns and handlinga considerable share of the Icelandicfishing quota.RootsThe roots of the company lie in theco-operative of the fishermen inNeskaupstaður. In 1957 there was agrowing demand for a fish meal plantthat could process the leftovers ofsalted herring. The herring industryhad taken off in a big way, whilethe codfishing languished. Herringwas salted all around Iceland, andthe East fjords developed a bigherring boom. Siglufjörður was thetraditional centre of the herringindustry, but now other townslike Neskaupstaður joined. In theyear 1952 the salting of herringcommenced here after a lengthyinterval. The need for a processingplant to produce oil and fishmealgrew steadily. The co-operativefinally responded by investing in aprocessing plant in a company openfor all to invest in, which aquired thename Síldarvinnslan. The share ofthe co-operative was originally 60%.The golden age of herringThe plant was opened in the summerof 1958. It received about 4.000tonnes of herring in that year, butthe peak production was reached in1966 with 107.533 tonnes.. Alreadya dozen or so boats were operatingout of Neskaupstaður in the herringfisheries, but in 1963 the companydecided it was time to aquire its ownboats. In a show of the workings ofcold war politics it was decided toorder the boats from shipyards inEast Germany. The town council,of Neskaupstaður was at the timesquarely in the hands of the SocialistParty, which was sympathetic tothe East Bloc and quite powerfulin Iceland. A number of boats wereIn the ninetiesshrimp trawling wasamong the newdirections takenby Síldarvinnslan.There were steadyimprovement intechnology in thecapelin fisheries,with technologicallyadvanced ships likeBeitir and Börkurbuilt in East Germany for Icelanders,not only for Síldarvinnslan. The twonew ships came to Neskaupstaðurin 1965. Two more boats, built inNorway, came in 1966 and 1967.New challengesIn 1967-1968 the herring bonanzacame to an end, the herringdisappeared and new ways hadto be found to occupy the fleet.Capelin came to the rescue, thehitherto little in-demand pelagicfish had been swimming fearlesslyin Icelandic waters but becauseof the disappearance of herringnow became the object of intensehunting efforts. The technologicallyvery advanced herring fleet couldbe employed to catch this fish inimmense numbers and soon theprocessing plants were hummingagain. In 1973 a new ship, BörkurNK 122, was bought and this was thelargest ship used for fishing pelagicfish ever seen in Iceland. It had thecapacity of catching over 1000 tonson each fishing tour.Moreover, the interest for cod hadgrown. A new kind of trawler hadbeen seen in Icelandic waters, thekind were the trawl was let outand taken in at the rear end, calledstern trawlers, but no Icelandershad invested in such ships. In 1965times were lean for cod fishing, andSíldarvinnslan took over some of theoperations of the co-operative SUN.This involved Síldarvinnslan buyingthe freezing plant of the co-operativeand a host of plants and equipment.Síldarvinnslan had now becomeinvolved in the demersal speciesindustry. It started to produce saltfish as well as frozen fish. In 1970the company was the first companyin Iceland to aquire a stern trawler.Most fishing companies in Icelandfollowed suit in the next decade.Disaster strikesOn the 20th December 1974 disasterstruck. The town of Neskaupstaðurwas hit by two enormous avalanches,which killed twelve people, destroyedthe fish meal plant and damagedthe freezing plant and much more.Seven of those killed were employedby Síldarvinnslan. This was a heavyblow to the town and almost all ofthe production facilities in the townwere destroyed. It was four daysbefore Christmas, in the darkestperiod of the year. These were darkdays indeed in Neskaupstaður.Rebuilding started immediately.Until March 1975 all the fish caughtwas salted, but then the freezingplant resumed operations with anew fish meal plant opening almosta year later. In february 1976 thefirst capelin was processed and therebuilding came to an end.After the cod warsIn the seventies the course was set forthe company, with capelin and codthe mainstays of the fishing industry.The cod wars changed the situationfor the Icelandic fishing industry,obtaining exclusive rights to thefishing grounds around Iceland forIcelanders. Others were excluded,but not without resistance. The codwars between Iceland and Britainraged intermittantly from 1971 until1976, when the British finally threwin the towel.In the nineties shrimp trawling wasamong the new directions taken bySíldarvinnslan. There were steadyimprovement in technology in thecapelin fisheries, with technologicallyadvanced ships like Beitir andBörkur. In the demersal fisheries thetendency was to equip the trawlerswith freezing plants so the fish couldbe frozen directly at sea, as fresh aspossible.A giant in the east, and inevery part of the countrySíldarvinnslan is now one of thelargest fishing companies in Iceland.It is the biggest company in pelagicfisheries and it is leading in theproduction of fish meal and fishoil. It operates in three towns inIceland. It handles fishing quotaswhich are the equvalent of 20.000cod fish tonnes. About 210 peoplework for the company and theturnover was 90 million US dollarsin 2009. Síldarvinnslan operatesa technologically advanced plantin Neskaupstaður, freezing bothdemersal and pelagic fish. It operatesno less than three well equipedprocessing plants for producing fishmeal and fish oil, in Neskaupstaður,Seyðisfjörður and Helguvík nearKeflavík. It owns two large ships whofish pelagic species, one freezingtrawler and one ice trawler. To findout more please see their website :www.svn.is.32 33

Reindeer in front of Gunnarsson’s home at Skriduklaustur– FljótsdalshreppurThe Home of the Reindeer inGrassy Heaths and Fertile ValleysDespite its few inhabitants, therural district of Fljótsdalshreppurhas many things worth seeing.It is probably the place to go ifyour main mission in Iceland wasto see reindeer, as it is the maindwelling of these gallant animals.There, you will also find placeswith great historic value, as wellas the second highest waterfalland the highest mountain outsideglaciers.The district lies in the inmost part ofthe inland, often referred to as Hérað.Fljótsdalshreppur actually containsvast lands, while the number ofMount Snæfell seen throughNorðurdalur.inhabitants is not more then 83,who are spread on thirty farms asthe district has no densely populatedareas.The reason for the size ofFljótsdalshreppur is that a big partof it lies in the highlands, in fact allthe way to Vatnajökull glacier. Thisis where the reindeer dwell, althoughit is also fairly likely, especially in thewinter, that you will see a group ofreindeer down in the valleys. In thehighlands you will also find hikingtrails and the natural hot pool atLaugafell.Fljótsdalshreppur is also at theinmost part of Lake Lagarfljót, withits’ myths of a living worm, themonsterous Lagafljotsorm. It dividesinto two green valleys, South Valleyand North Valley, combined into thevalley of Fljótsdalur. Sheep breedingused to be the main farming, butnowadays it has diminished andmore people seek work out fromtheir farms.The highest mountain in Icelandwhich is not under glacier, is Snæfell,reaching 1833 m. It is located inFljótsdalshreppur and surmounts thegreen valleys beautifully. The secondhighest waterfall, Hengifoss 128 m.and his neighbour Litlanessfoss withbeautiful surrounding of basalt pillars,is down in the valley and attractssome 30.000 visitors each summerFljótsdalur played a role in themiddle ages and is part of the Sagas,such as Sturlunga saga and Hrafnkelssaga. Valþjófsstaður with its church,is famous for a medieval door nowkept at the National Museum, carvedand decorated in byzantic style.Fljótsdalur has also made historyafther the millenium. Next toValþjófsstaður you will find thegigantic power station of KarahnjukarHydro Power Project. But you mightThe waterfalls, Hengifossand Litlanesfoss.not notice it because it is deep downin the mountain. An info center forthe project is at Végarður, where youcan also find a nice camping and anew guesthouse, and you can ask fortours into the mountain in hunt forturbines and trolls.At Skriðuklaustur you’ll find manyinteresting things. The most famousbuilding at Skriðuklaustur is quitespectacular, built by the Icelandicauthor Gunnar Gunnarsson in 1939in a Bavarian style. Gunnarssondonated the building and the wholeestate to the nation in 1948 and sinceyear 2000 it has been open as a centreof culture & history with variousexhibitions and activities. The localfood restaurant and café Klausturkaffiis situated on the 1st floor.At Skriðuklaustur you’ll also find theremains of an Augustinian monasteryestablished in 1493. The monasteryended by the Reformation in 1550but in 2002 an excavation startedrevealing the old ruins. It is one ofthe biggest archeological project inIceland and has confirmed that themain purpose of the monastery wasto be a hospice for the sick and poorand the monks did run a hospitalthere The remains of the monasteryare accessable to visitors and guidedtours available.This summer, a new informationcenter for Vatnajökull GlacierPark, opened at Skriðuklaustur.Snæfellsstofa is located in a brandnew building, the first one in Icelandto get an ecological certification fromBREEAM, a British measurementrating for green buildings.Vatnajökull National Park is noless magnificent from the East sidethan from the South side. Plus, ithas become more accessible fromthe East in recent years, with a newpaved road up to the highlands fromFljótsdalur. Snæfellsstofa, containsa great bulk of information for thisinteresting area in addition to apermanent exhibition which shows,through multimedia representation,all the wonders of the parkFljótsdalshreppur is a great areato visit for those seeking niceenvironment of historical interestthat could surprise them with a flockof reindeers.Mjoeyri Guest Houseand Travel ServiceTucked away in the folds of thetranquil eastern fjords, lies thevillage of Eskifjörður, one of sixtowns in the Fjarbyggð region ofEast Iceland.Holmatindur Peak, Eskifjörður’spride and joy, towers over the town,standing guard and it is withinthis magnificent setting that you willfind the Mjoeyri Guest House andTravel Service.Explore and discover aless often travelled side ofIcelandThe list of things to do in the area isalmost endless and Mjoeyri TravelService would be delighted to helpyou plan your stay. Recreationalactivities offered in the region includefishing, boating, skiing, golf, iceclimbing, hiking, bird watching,cavetours, nature observation, horseriding, diving, northern lightwatching, kayaking and more! With aplethora of museums and swimmingpools in every town, there is simplysomething for everyone. The MjoeyriGuest House is ideal to use as a basefor exploring the area and offers thepossibility of breakfast and dinner tostart and end your day.Autumn in the EastEast Iceland is also home to a herdof some 5000 reindeer which comedown from the highlands in the fall tobegin the mating season lasting fromIf getting away fromthe cares of life ishigh on your list ofpriorities, then youhave come to theright place.approximately September 20th till theend of October- autumn being oneof the best times of year to catch aglimpse of these noble creatures withthe stags sporting their lofty antlers inall their glory.Mountain TherapyLong walks in the crisp mountainair, skiing on the high peaks of the“eastern alps” or just chilling out in a“hot pot” at the local pool, winter inthe Eastern Fjords is therapeutic andwill leave you refreshed and renewed.A quote from the Mjoeyri TravelService website says it best:“The mountains of Fjarbyggð regiongive this part of Iceland it’s distinctivecharacter, and have a huge influenceon the lives of the people who livehere. Just to live in these fjords,surrounded by beautiful mountains,is a source of great inspiration andsolace for all the inhabitants. To us,it is almost as if the mountains reachout and embrace us as we arrive, bidus welcome, and give us feelings ofbelonging and well-being.”If getting away from the cares of lifeis high on your list of priorities, thenyou have come to the right place. Theserenity, the peace, and the gentle flowof life in the Eastern Fjords will be likenothing you have ever experienced.For directions and further informationsee their website: http://mjoeyri.is/aensku.htmRuins of the 16th century monastery at Skriduklaustur34 35

– BreiðdalurThe Broad Valley of the EastDriving east on highway No.1,you’ll come across Breiðdalur, or“the Broad Valley.” In this beautifulvalley, surrounded by lofty peaksand sheer cliffs, lies the village ofBreiðdalsvík; whose broad andfertile area offer visitors many greatoutdoor activities, and it’s village, avibrant cultural life.Autumn is especially fascinating in thisarea of the country; while on a walk insearch of berries, you’ll undoubtedlywitness the many shades of brownand moss-green. Breiðdalur is saidto be one of the most genial areas ofIceland, known for the colorful rhyolitemountains which surround it, rising toa height of some 1,100-1,200 meters.Hotel Bláfell:Between Sheer Mountainshouse is ideal. For a big family withenergetic children, there is enoughspace both inside the hotel roomitself and outdoors along the vastblack beach to run and play afterwhich a nice cup of hot chocolate bythe hearth will be just the thing!Indeed, the hotel has been carefullyand thoughtfully designed to includesomething for everyone.The village of Breiðdalsvík is calm andits inhabitants friendly; guests willsurely get the feeling of countrysideliving, yet almost every service isconveniently within walking distance.In addition the region offers plentyof activities that make the most ofthe beautiful, natural surroundings.Rockcollecting amongst the beautifulhyalite formations in the south of thevalley, or fishing in one of the threelocal rivers are just two of the manyactivities guests can enjoy. Whenrelaxing in the sauna and roundingoff the evening by the fireplace aftersuch a day, guests might just discoverwhat life is all about.Hotel Bláfell also has its ownrestaurant, proudly serving up thefinest local ingredients. Bláfell takespride in serving hearty traditionalA good variety of marked trails can befound around Breiðdalsvík, both forlonger and shorter tours. In BreiðdalurThe old Co-op, Breiðdalssetur.you will find three of Iceland´s mostResearch and heritage centrebeautiful fishing rivers, Breiðdalsá,and tourist information centre.Tinnudalsá and Norðurdalsá. Walkingalong Breiðdalsá don’t miss Beljandi,Walker was especially conspicuousthe most beautiful waterfall in the area.and the Blue Seain the fifties and sixties; many of theAutumn is the ideal time for huntingolder folks of the area still rememberfor geese, ptarmigan and even reindeerhim driving around in his Land Roverwhile fishing for brown trout is possibleand camping out the whole summerthroughout the year.with his wife. The work and the storiesThe village of Breiðdalsvík, has manyHotel Bláfell is the perfect make the hotel quite attractive fromof this extraordinary character can beinteresting things to see such as it’s oldestromantic getaway; a charming, the outside. However, it is the insideseen in an ongoing exhibition at Gamlahouse known as “Gamla Kaupfélagið”wooden building, located in the that is particularly charming, theKaupfélagshúsið.or “the Old Co-op”, and Breiðdalssetur, avillage of Breiðdalsvík in eastern rustic wood interior give the niceBreiðdalsvík has another collectioncultural centre that deals especially withIceland.feeling of actually being out of townconnected to geology; a well organisedgeology, linguistics and history. ManySurrounded by high, steep, in the middle of nature.and informative mineral collection forof the cultural events of the region takemagnificent mountains on the one Each of the 25 rooms is equippedthose interested in the many wondersplace in Gamla Kaupfélagshúsið, suchside and the majestic, rolling sea with a private bathroom, TV andof the ground beneath us.as art exhibitions, events during theon the other, it is just the place to telephone.Travel related services are ever-growingDays of Darkness festival and more.unwind on a cozy fireside evening. The rooms come in all shapes andin this broad, beautiful valley, whetherThis year, special emphasis is on theThe hotel opened in 1982, when sizes, ranging from single rooms toit´s for accommodation, dining,work of the geologist Dr. George P.tourism hardly existed in Iceland, family rooms. A quaint, comfortable just reading a good book. To perfectactivities or relaxation, making it theL. Walker, who was one of the first toand as visitors began to discover sitting room with an open fire is idealmeals; the lamb, beef and vegetablesthe relaxation, Hotel Bláfell offers itsideal choice for your vacation.study the geology of the East, especiallythe splendor of the Icelandic for enjoying a pleasurable momentare harvested from nearby farms andHazel Walker on a feald trip.guests a sauna to wind down in.the Breiðdalseldstöð, an ancientcountryside, the hotel became a whether relaxing after a day exploringthe seafood in brought in by localIf you are looking for a romanticMore information is available onvolcano, which has not been activefast favorite among those in the the local area, sitting with friends orfishermen. Every bread and cake isweekend, a deluxe room in the logbreiddalur.isduring historic times. Walker studiedknow. Located right in the heart ofhome-baked. Even the berries usedthe geology of the East of Iceland withBreiðdalsvík, Hotel Bláafell is runin the desserts are hand-picked bygreat enthusiasm, spending manyby Friðrik Arnason together withthe hotel staff. Hotel Bláfell offerssummers in the area, often along withhis wife Hrafnhildur Hafsteinsdottira variety of menus for a uniquelyhis wife Hazel and some of his students.and it has the warm atmosphere of aIcelandic culinary treat.family run inn.A stay at Hotel Bláfell is a must forThe Breiðdalur area is known forany journey along Iceland’s eastits nice weather, numerous walkingcoast.paths and beautiful autumn colors;Guests will be warmed by thean ideal vacation spot for the autumnhospitality and enthralled by theseason. The friendly and welcomingnatural beauty.hotel staff ensure that guests feelFriðrik, Hrafnhildur and their staffcomfortable.will be sure that every visit is aBláfell is a prominent building inmemorable one.Tinna and Norðurdalsá Rivers meet.Sea carved caves at Streiti.Tinnudalsáthe village, the dark wood on theFurther information is available onexterior and its vibrant blue roofwww.hotelblafell.is36 37

Enchanting East Iceland- DjupivogurAs you wind your way throughthe fjords of Eastern Iceland, youwill come to the small traditionalfishing village of Djupivogur,population 454.While small in size, the area isbrimming with a diversity ofnatural attractions that are not tobe missed. In recent years, theDjupivogur municipality has beguna project which aims to introduceand educate the public about theenormous number of bird specieswhich migrate there every year,some of which also call Djupivogurhome on an ongoing basis.Papey Island ....the perfectpuffin photo op.Originally thought to have beenthe home of Irish Monks beforethe Viking Settlement, the island ofPapey, retains the oldest and smallestwooden church in Iceland, believedto have been built in 1807. Whileuninhabited for the last 20 years,guided sightseeing tours of the islandare possible with the ferryboat “GísliPapey” which also offers specialisedbird and seal watching tours. Sealsare often seen sunning themselveson the skerries and whales are notunknown in these waters as well.With approximately 30,000 pairsof puffins nesting on the cliffs ofPapey and surrounding islands,visitors are practically guaranteed anopportunity to catch sight of thesepopular sea birds, as well as eiderducks, guillemots, and kittywakes.LangabúðThe oldest house in Djupivogur,“Langabud” was built in 1790 andis one of the oldest houses in eastIceland. Now renovated, it serves as acultural centre for Djúpivogur, partlyby housing a heritage museum, anexhibiton on the sculptor RíkarðurJónsson and a small salon in memoryof Eysteinn Jonsson, a formerminister in Iceland. At Langabúðthere is also a cozy coffeehouseoffering homemade cakes and otherIcelandic specialities.The Eggs of Merry BayJust 900 metres from the Djupivogurvillage centre at Gleðivík,( MerryBay) lies undoubtedly one of themost unusual sculptures in Iceland.Created in 2009, by Icelandicartist Sigurður Guðmundsson, itconsists of 34 large scale replicasrepresenting 34 bird species foundin the area. Each one different fromthe other, with shades of colour,shape and nuance, is beautifullyexecuted.Hótel Framtíð- A familyrun hotel offering rooms,summerhouses andapartments.This friendly hotel with its charmingatmosphere and marvellous viewsover the harbour offers comfortableaccomodation. The hotel´s restaurantin the main building is full of charmand character and can accommodate40 guests but also the hotel has anew restaurant with seating for 200persons, ideal for groups and specialevents. There is also a bar, and yourstay is not complete until you havetasted the freshly caught fish andother seafood dishes on the menue.Hótel Framtíð also runs the campsite in Djupivogur.For further information aboutDjupivogur and surroundings pleasesee the following websites:djupivogur.ishotelframtid.combirds.isThe Reindeer Centre andGuesthouse of East IcelandSkjöldólfsstaðir in Jökuldalur,East Iceland. In a building thatused to be the schoolhouse forthe area, Aðalsteinn Ingi Jónssonruns a guesthouse which isdedicated to the reindeer inIceland. Besides the guesthouse,with its various memorabiliaconnected to reindeer, reindeerhunting and other thingsreindeer, Aðalsteinn runs a smallzoo where the animals can beseen close up. During huntingseason the Centre becomes averitable hunting lodge.The GuesthouseThe walls of the guesthouselined with antlers, skins, reindeerproducts, pictures and informationand can accommodate up to 37people, in either made up beds orsleeping bags. Breakfast is includedand other meals are available onrequest. Included in the price isaccess to a small swimming pool anda jacuzzi. The Center’s kitchen canaccommodate groups of up to 120people for special occasions, whereyou may of course order reindeersteak, which is a real delicacy, as wellas a host of other dishes all made ofreindeer meat.Zoo and Crafts StoreAt Klaustursel Farm, which isanother17 kilometers further upvalley, reindeer or“hreindýr” as theyare called in Icelandic, can be seenclose up. The small reindeer familyconsists of one buck, one doe anda year old calf. Locals say that thebuck and calf are very friendly, butthe female is very shy, so don´t beoffended if she seems aloof. Onlocation is also a crafts store whereyou´ll be able to purchase purses,hats and various trinkets all madeout of reindeer skin, hair and horns.The Origin of the Reindeerin IcelandIn 1771, the first group of reindeer toarrive in Iceland was from Norwayand was put ashore in the WestmenIslands and on the south coast ofthe country. The second groupcame in 1777 and was put ashoreon Reykjanes Penninsula, and thethird in Northern Iceland in 1784.All these groups died out however,and a fourth group, which wasput ashore in Vopnafjörður in 1787survived. This is the basis of thepresent reindeer stock in Iceland.The stock is now around 5000animals and efforts are made tokeep that size each year. Each yearhunting quotas are issued accordingto both areas and gender, that wayit is ensured that the populationis spread equally and the rationof males to females supports thebreed‘s renewal.Fore futher information visit:www.ahreindyraslodum.is38 39

Hospitality at the Harbour-- Arctic Bed & BreakfastExplore life in a small fishingvillage, watch the colourfulfishing vessels come into port,take a walk along on the wharf,pamper yourself at the private spaof the magnificent Blue Lagoonor visit the fascinating SaltfishMuseum and get knowledgeableabout Iceland´s history.....just asmattering of things to do andsee in Grindavik.Located in the historic fishingvillage of Grindavik, just 25 minutesfrom Keflavik International Airport,family run Arctic Bed & Breakfastis perfectly situated as a base fromwhich to explore the many wondersof the Reykjanes Penninsula. Withthe hugely popular and invitingwaters of the Blue Lagoon just 5minutes away, Reykjavik just 50minutes away, and mossy green lavafields just under foot, you have someof the best that Iceland has to offer atyour doorstep.Some features of ArcticB&B include:• quiet rooms with views over theharbour• newly renovated kitchen & livingarea• all amenities of Grindavik withinwalking distance (restaurants, cafes,pubs, grocery store, bank, library,museum, geothermal outdoorswimming pool, post office, etc)• traditional Icelandic breakfast• complimentary Wi-fi in everyroom• 20% discount available with a stayof 5 days or more• open all year roundRiding Tour for 2011An exciting new riding tour is in theworks now, to be ready for the 2011summer season. The intinerarywill take you from Grindavík tothe wild and windswept coast ofValahnukur, to the “Bridge Betweenthe Continents”, then on to thevolcanic landscape of Eldvörp,and culminating with a refreshingswim in the Blue Lagoon. For moreinformation please see their websitelisted below.40Reykjanes Pennisulabeckons you....Arriving at Keflavik Airport at thenorth western tip of the penninsula,you will be forgiven if your firstthoughts, as you look out over thelandscape, are ones of dismay andyou have probably heard by nowthat it looks a bit like you just arrivedon the moon. Fear not! There areso many hidden gems awaiting yourdiscovery. The partial list includes:outdoor geothemal swimmingpools, golf, hiking on ancientwalking paths, sea-angling, trips toEldey Island for bird watching, lavacaves, the Viking Ship Museum, theSaltfish Museum, the Gunnuhver hotsprings, the Reykjanes Light House,the “Bridge Between Continents”,the educational Reykjanes PowerPlant, ship wreck sites, bubblingmud pools and steam vents, and ofcourse the famous Blue Lagoon.Innkeepers Helgi and Sunnevawelcome you and will be happy tohelp you organise your stay in thearea. For booking and directions toArctic Bed & Breakfast please seetheir website:http://www.arcticbandb.com

ICELAND 63° 66° N:A remarkable Filmproject about Icelandand sensitive comments, the flowingand fascinating panoramic views areperfectly embedded into music thathad been produced exclusively forthe film.Risking all for the perfectshot2 cameras, 2 tripods, a cameracrane and dolly for mobile shots, anotebook, a bunch of batteries, harddisks and more go into the productionof a film project like this. Erdmannspared no trouble or expense to getthe perfect panoramic shot he wasaiming for. He climbed Blahnukurpeak ten times with more than30 kilos of equipment on his back,waiting patiently for the exact timingand setting to record the alpine worldof Landmannalaugar the way he hadbeen dreaming of, but to no avail.Finally, on his eleventh hike, successcame : glowing rhyolite hills, lightand shadow, clouds slowly movingacrosson the hillsides, a perfect viewof the central highlands. These arethe moments that are worth anyexertion.„Any traveller to Iceland knowsthat the weather can changedrastically from one moment to thenext. Filming on „Laugavegur“ forinstance, was especially frustrating,”Stefan recounts. “I had to do the hikein stages, going up and down severaltimes, sometimes in the pouring rain,or in thick fog or through deep snowand always with 30 kilos of equipmenton my back.” But every rain storm,snowfall, or foggy weather eventuallycomes to an end and it is precisely inthese moments, when the sun breaksthrough the clouds, that you know ithas been worth all the effort. Everytime it is like a revelation and can‘t bedescribed in words.“New perspectivesOn his first landing approach toIceland many years ago, Erdmanndreamt about filming the naturallandscape from above. Afterextensive search he met the Icelandicpilot Þórhallur Òskarsson. Thetwo have flown more than 2.000kilometres over Iceland, taking thefootage for this unique film projectwith a completely new perspectiveon the fascinating landscape of theisland: the result of which is IcelandFrom Above “This land appears to lieunder a spell and it often seems to methat Earth is holding her breath. Weare floating over a great, overall workof art, hundreds of square kilometres-always re-creating and shapingitself anew, yet showing absoluteperfection at any given moment.“ -Aquote from Stefan Erdman’s latestfilm ICELAND FROM ABOVE..ISLAND 63° 66° N- A declaration of love andhomage to IcelandA film that is intense, emotional andinformative, Erdmann’s love andpassion for the country is vividlyportrayed in a way that no otherfilm about Iceland has been able toachieve. Within the growing ranksof Iceland’s fans in German speakingcountries, this exceptional film hasalready gained cult status. Also ofnote is a commentary (in Icelandic)about ISLAND 63° 66° N by Icelandicenvironmentalist Omar Ragnarssoncan be found on his blog: The film isavailable throughout Iceland and atwww.icelandfilm.comWith a thundering noise, giganticwaves come rolling onto theblack lava beach, and the eveningsun paints a supernatural light onthe water’s surface. A man’s voiceis heard- “The first time, I felt sodeeply touched by your beauty,your serenity.The second time you made mefeel secure, composed and in goodhands. The third time I wept withhappiness to be here once more, andthe thought of having to say farewellwas overwhelming. You are withme… day by day. You arouse in mejoy, desire… longing. You belongin my life forever. “ These wordssound like a declaration of lovefrom a man to a woman - however,they are a declaration of love to acountry. To Iceland. It is the voice ofStefan Erdmann and his preliminarywords of the first part of thedocumentary“ISLAND 63° 66° N“.30.000 km on the road, andmore than 500 hours offootageStefan Erdmann began this projectmany years ago on his own initiative.He ended up criss-crossing thecountry by jeep 16 times, flyinghundreds of kilometers with hisfriend Þorhallur Oskarsson inan ultralight airplane and hikingfor many days in the IcelandicHighlands. More than 500 hoursof footage was shot, the essence ofwhich has been skillfully composedby the filmmaker, who succeeds inbringing the viewer very close to theaction. Narrated with informative42 43

– Rauða húsiðAt the Birthplace of the Icelandic Lobster IndustryHotel RangaStay in Iceland with ClassNow that Iceland is getting readyto put on its winter clothes withall the accompanying activitiesand natural phenomena – thedays are inevitably gettingshorter and the nights aregetting colder. It is therefore ofparamount importance to enterinto a realm of warmth and luxuryafter a busy day of activities andsightseeing and things don’t getany more luxurious than HótelRangá in the South of Iceland.Hótel Rangá is a four star log-cabinstyled resort, renowned for itsquality accommodation, serviceand gourmet food and extensivewine list. The hotel has beenheralded as one of the best hotelsin Iceland and even all of Europe,which comes as no surprise whenlooking at the elaborate interiorsand the personal service on offer.One of the latest additions is theWorld Pavilion – seven new suiteseach designed and themed foreach of the seven continents. Forthose looking for the ultimate stayin Iceland be sure to inquire aboutthe Master Royal Suite, which hasserved as a temporary home tosome of the most prominent peoplein the world.The hotel is conveniently locatedclose to all of the best attractionsSouth of Iceland has to offer,including Gullfoss,Geysir, Þingvellir,Landmannalaugar,Þórsmörk andVestmannaeyjarislands to name afew. The hotel is alsolocated in the middleof what is now beingcalled “The Ring ofFire,” an exciting areawith geothermal andvolcanic activity allaround. Be sure toinquire about helicopter trips to theinfamous Eyjafjallajökull.The area surrounding the hotel isthought by many to be the mostefficient site to catch sight of theelusive aurora borealis. Checktheir website for predictions andupdates.For more information and bookingvisit www.hotelranga.isA voyage to Iceland would not becomplete without a visit to thebirthplace of the Icelandic lobsterindustry. Visitors will no doubtwant to indulge in a feast of thefinest Icelandic seafood at theRauða húsið restaurant, located inthe picturesque seaside village ofEyrarbakki. In this beautiful redhouse, waits the dining experienceof a lifetime, served in a charmingatmosphere surrounded by a richand well-preserved history.Eyrarbakki, once an important tradingcentre in Iceland, has evolved intoa tranquil village of less than 600inhabitants. Many of the houses inwere built in the early 1900s and thevillage has maintained a turn of thecentury, freewheeling charm andatmosphere. Rauða húsið takes thisenchanting ambiance to new heightsthat will delight the palate with a tasteof the bounty of the sea.Lobster fishing in Iceland was bornoff the shores of Eyrarbakki in 1954.Icelanders were late to discover thevarious seafood delicacies. In fact itwas not till the mid 20th century thatthe locals discovered that not only wasthe small Langoustine lobster edible, itwas delicious!Guests will appreciate the care takento maintain the sense of historywithin the restaurant. The red house“Voted one of Europes top hot 100 Hotels“– Sunday Times, May 2010was originally built as a store by oneof the women who pioneered in thearea. The restaurant boasts beautifuloriginal wooden floorboards and datesback to 1919. Those who arrive by atnoon often choose a hearty bowl oflangoustine soup or a light seafoodsalad in advance of venturing out foran active day. Those who choose anevening of indulgence can savour theCatch of the day, which consists ofthree different seafood dishes preparedfrom the freshest ingredients available.Pair a bottle of fine wine with any ofthe menu’s offerings and cap it offwith one of the Rauða húsið’s signaturedesserts. Serving a variety of deliciousfish and meat dishes guests will find therestaurant’s cuisine is a nice mixtureof international and Icelandic cuisine,but local ingredients are certainly thefeature.Take advantage of the enjoyableexperience of walking around thevillage of Eyrarbakki before or after ahearty meal at Rauda Husid. The walkcould continue along the beautiful blackbeach only few minutes away from thevillage. What could top a relaxing strollby the water after an exquisite diningexperience?Rauda husid, Búðarstíg 4, Eyrarbakki.Tel. 483 3330. www.raudahusid.is;raudahusid@raudahusid.is44 45

Stakkavík Fish Factory-A new take on an age old traditionThe Stakkavík Fish Factory inGrindavík, has recently diversifiedin an unexpected direction byoffering tourists a look at howfresh fish is processed and packedfor export. A unique opportunity,Stakkavík is the first company inIceland to venture into this arena.Why has nobody thought of thisbefore? Like many brilliant ideas, itseems so simple once it has been putinto practice.A Powerhouse of the FishingIndustryUntil about 1940 Grindavík only hada few hundred inhabitants. Then aharbour was created to shelter thefishing fleet, and the town started togrow. It is only a short sail to someof the best cod fishing grounds inthe world, so growth conditionswere excellent. The number of smalland medium sized motor vesselsmultiplied and fishermen flocked toGrindavík to settle there. In the sixtiesthe population had grown to about athousand people, and continued togrow in the seventies and eighties. Inrecent years growth has slowed, butwith a population of about 3000 it isnonetheless one of the powerhousesof the Icelandic fishing industry.the packing of fresh fish, which is nowthe mainstay of production. TodayStakkavík owns one large long-liner, 6to 8 smaller fishing boats as well as afishing quota to the tune of 3.100.000cod.belonged to the emperor are stillactive and visitors are able to observeartisans hand painting the porcelainand carving the jade so it is onlynatural that the process of fish packing,so central to Icelandic economic lifefrom about 1940 onwards, is shownto tourists.There are alreadyseveral touristdestinations inGrindavík, the BlueLagoon, the SaltFish Museum, theharbour, and nowthe added thepossibility of seeingfish packing inaction.-Design Shop KraumCarrying the Torch for theFounders of ReykjavíkOne of the oldest houses inReykjavík is located in Aðalstræti10, where design shop Kraumcurrently offers unique design byover 200 designers. It is very fittingthat Icelandic products are beingsold in this historical building sinceit was originally built to promoteIcelandic production.In the mid 17th century there was verylittle production going on in Icelandand what we now know as Reykjavíkwas little more than farmlands andempty fields. An entrepreneur calledSkúli Fógeti wanted to change thatand had several factories set up inwhat became Reykjavík’s first street.Aðalstræti 10 is now the only house leftof Skúli’s enterprise and therefore oneof the oldest houses in Reykjavík. Afterthe factory was shut down the buildingwas changed to a residence, wheresome of Iceland’s most prominentcitizens have stayed, including JónSigurðsson, the leader of the 19thcentury Icelandic independencemovement.The perfect fitWhen a housing conservationcommittee gained control of thehouse and started renovations itwas decided that it was desirable forsuch an historical building to housea business connected with its origin.Halla Bogadóttir, manager of Kraum,was at that time looking for a venuefor an ambitious business idea. “I feltthat me and many of my colleagueswere too scattered across town and formany operating a business was takingtoo much time from the design part.We wanted to find a venue in whichwe could present the best Icelandicdesigners have to offer in one place andwhen Aðalstræti 10 came our way weknew it was a perfect fit.We wanted to put special emphasison Icelandic products and productswith a close connection to Iceland’sculture, nature and history. What wedidn’t want was to sell souvenirs massproduced in different continents. So ina way we feel as if we are carrying thetorch for Skúli Fógeti,” says Halla.We wanted to putspecial emphasis onIcelandic productsand products witha close connectionto Iceland’s culture,nature and history.We’re very excited to see the results,which will be made clear on May 1st,the same day of the summer openingof Ásmundarsafn,”says Halla.During the so-called DesignMarchKraum will be especially crowded.From March 18-21 six new designerswill display their works in Kraum.During this event Reykavík is expectedto be full of interesting lectures andexhibitions reflecting the diversity inIcelandic design. For more information,visit kraum.is“Elephants of the North”Highlyoriginal whale sculptures made outof glass.From Salt Fish to Fresh FishThe company, founded in 1988,started off selling their own saltedBe Profound like Halldórfish from a 300 square meter building.LaxnessExhibiting Fish ProcessingOver the years Stakkavík steadilyAs a part of that effort Kraum startedto Touristsexpanded into larger and largera competition where designers wereThe practice of exhibiting production The Viewing Platform andpremises, buying fishing boats andinvited to come up with productsprocesses is a widespread one and an Restaurantfish quotas and finally it owned noin the spirit of one of Iceland‘s mostintegral part of the tourist industry Originally the platform were touristsless than thirty fishing boats all overprestigious painters, known simply asalmost everywhere. In Peking the can view the production line wasthe country. Soon the companyErró. “The results were incredible andenamel and jade factories that once intended as an additional room for astarted diversifying from salt fish toHang your clothes on Icelandic we now have on offer many of the itemsstaff dining hall. Then the companywood and rocks.which came about from the contest atstarted to invite guests, businessreasonable prices,” says Halla. One of Let the Icelandic cod light up yourpartners and others, to come and viewthese is the winning piece; a writingday with this chandelier made outthe production from the platform.of dried fish skin.board in the shape of a caricature ErróFrom there the idea developed tomade of Iceland’s most beloved authorinvite tourists to come and see theHalldór Laxness. Halldór, a Nobel Prizefactory. There are already severalwinner, was considered extremelytourist destinations in Grindavík, thewitty and eloquent so whateverBlue Lagoon, the Salt Fish Museum,notes you write on the speech bubblethe harbour, and now the added theemanating from his mouth will surelypossibility of seeing fish packing inautomatically become profound.action.This year a new competition hasstarted and this time it is the sculptorStakkavik Fish Factory invites youA helpful reminder of excessÁsmundur Sveinsson who sets theto take a peek into Iceland’s past,and immoderation is this plate,motif. “Last time we wanted to focusenjoy coffee and a light meal on thewhich show you the Icelandicon more practical designs, but this timepremises. Further information can beTake the Icelandic nature home withconsumption pattern while youaround we’re expanding and calling for you. There is real moss growing insidefound at www.stakkavik.iseat. Photos: Ingolfur Juliussonclothing and ornamental items as well. this ring so remember to water it.46 47

we‘llTAKe youThere!DAy Tours To All The mosTexciTing plAces in icelAnDexperience A greAT DAy wiTh us!Discover all the magical places not to be missed when iniceland: Beautiful nature, multicoloured mountains,fertile farmlands, stunning views, plummeting waterfalls,natural wonders and geological phenomena.Book now on www.re.isBook now by calling 580 5450expo · www.expo.isBSÍ Bus Terminal101 Reykjavík+354 580 5400main@re.iswww.re.isTravel AgencyAuthorised byIcelandic Tourist BoardO