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edwin lutyens and new delhi - an ideal garden city - Lutyens Design ...

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EDWIN LUTYENS AND NEW DELHI<br />

- AN IDEAL GARDEN CITY<br />

An in-depth visit to the 20 th century’s finest pl<strong>an</strong>ned <strong>city</strong><br />

With Louise Nicholson <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia <strong>Lutyens</strong><br />

Saturday March 9 – Saturday March 16, 2013<br />

Government House, today Rastrapathi Bhaw<strong>an</strong>, <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s centrepiece for New Delhi<br />

When Edwin <strong>Lutyens</strong> won the commission to build a <strong>new</strong> capital for the British Empire’s jewel, his aim was to create a<br />

<strong>garden</strong> <strong>city</strong> ‘with room for endless exp<strong>an</strong>sion’. He did just that. The <strong>city</strong> has exp<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ed to be the capital of the world’s<br />

largest democracy, while its spacious core of immaculately designed <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> executed l<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>mark government <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> civic<br />

buildings throb with activity, making New Delhi arguably the most successful pl<strong>an</strong>ned <strong>city</strong> of the 20 th century.<br />

On our journey we have the great good fortune to be accomp<strong>an</strong>ied by <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s gr<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>daughter C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia <strong>Lutyens</strong>, who<br />

will share insights <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> family stories. Together we explore the India <strong>Lutyens</strong> arrived into, his views on the subcontinent’s<br />

4,000-year-old cultural heritage, <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> what impressed him enough to be incorporated into his great design.<br />

We learn about the British government’s aspirations for their <strong>new</strong> capital <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> how <strong>Lutyens</strong> rebelled against them –<br />

even cheekily ch<strong>an</strong>ging the location of the <strong>new</strong> <strong>city</strong> after the foundation stone had been laid by the King-Emperor<br />

George V! We see what his team of architects contributed, the sc<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>als during the <strong>city</strong>’s creation, his breakfast<br />

meetings with the horticulturalist who advised on which trees should line each avenue.<br />

During our Delhi days we go behind the closed doors of <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s masterpiece Government House (Rastrapathi<br />

Bhaw<strong>an</strong>, government permitting) <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> other buildings rarely open to the public. We meet with histori<strong>an</strong>s, curators,<br />

conservationists, bot<strong>an</strong>ists, <strong>garden</strong>ers <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> other specialists who maintain New Delhi’s integrity today. We see public<br />

buildings, private buildings <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> monuments. And we consider how <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s <strong>new</strong> <strong>city</strong> was received at the time <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> its<br />

later influence in India <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> globally. Leaving Delhi, we then travel in the footsteps of <strong>Lutyens</strong> <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>, with his copious<br />

letters to quote from, visit Agra’s Mughal masterpieces, Gwalior’s great medieval fort <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> Datia’s Rajput palace.<br />

I do hope you will join C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> myself on this remarkable study tour. If a week is too short, we are happy to work<br />

with each traveler to create a tailor-made extension before or after it, to <strong>an</strong>y part of the sub-continent.<br />

With best wishes, Louise


About Louise Nicholson<br />

Louise studied for her MA in History of Art at Edinburgh. In London, she worked for The Victori<strong>an</strong> Society<br />

conservation body <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> was a founder of The Thirties Society (now the 20 th Century Society). She became a specialist<br />

in Indi<strong>an</strong> <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> Islamic art at Christie’s, then <strong>an</strong> arts journalist on The Times where she had a weekly column throughout<br />

the Festival of India. Her two dozen books include award winning guides to India; she was associate producer on<br />

Ch<strong>an</strong>nel 4’s acclaimed six-part series, The Great Moghuls. She has been leading trips to India for 27 years.<br />

Louise lives in New York. Please visit www.louisesindia.com<br />

About C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia <strong>Lutyens</strong><br />

C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia <strong>Lutyens</strong>, gr<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>daughter of Sir Edwin <strong>Lutyens</strong>, studied for her MA in PPE at Oxford <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> is married to Paul<br />

Peterson, <strong>an</strong> architect. Together they founded <strong>Lutyens</strong> Furniture & Lighting in 1988 <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> have assiduously researched<br />

<strong>Lutyens</strong>’s drawings <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> surviving furniture to bring a re<strong>new</strong>ed appreciation of his iconic designs <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> flawless details.<br />

Their bespoke pieces made by traditional craftsmen are considered museum quality.<br />

C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia lives in Fr<strong>an</strong>ce. Please visit www.<strong>lutyens</strong>-furniture.com<br />

THE ITINERARY<br />

<strong>Lutyens</strong> inspecting building progress by eleph<strong>an</strong>t<br />

Saturday March 9 Delhi The Claridges hotel<br />

Deluxe rooms<br />

Today is gathering day: met from your international flight, escorted to your hotel (40-60 minute<br />

drive) <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> assisted with check-in. Your room is available from noon today. Should you wish to arrive in<br />

adv<strong>an</strong>ce to acclimatize, we c<strong>an</strong> book these arr<strong>an</strong>gements.<br />

Late this afternoon, <strong>an</strong> introduction to the tour.<br />

Our hotel: located right inside <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s core pl<strong>an</strong> <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> inspired by its surroundings, the 1950s hotel has<br />

recently been beautifully <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> sensitively renovated. www.claridges.com<br />

Should you wish to upgrade your room, or stay at the lavish Imperial hotel, please ask LN for details<br />

Note: breakfasts <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> lunches are included in the The Tour starting tomorrow, March 10; the only dinner<br />

included is Monday March 11 gala dinner)<br />

Sunday March 10 Delhi The Claridges hotel<br />

Depart early for a full <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> busy day touring the <strong>city</strong>.


Morning: An overview of the historic Delhi cities that <strong>Lutyens</strong> was familiar with. We visit Lal<br />

Kot, the earliest of several sult<strong>an</strong>ate cities, <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> the Mughal emperor Humuyun’s fine <strong>garden</strong> tomb <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong><br />

nearby Pur<strong>an</strong>a Qila. They are adjacent to the Sufi village of Nizamuddin - the oldest living area of Delhi<br />

<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> a main reason cities were repeatedly built here, <strong>an</strong>other being their strategic position protecting India<br />

from invaders through the Hindu Khush.<br />

A break for coffee.<br />

We go north to New Delhi’s immediate predecessor, Old Delhi, inaugurated in 1658 when its<br />

builder, the Mughal emperor Shah Jeh<strong>an</strong>, brought the capital of Northern India back here from Agra where<br />

it has been for about 250 years. We walk through the Red Fort <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> take bicycle rickshaws through Old<br />

Delhi <strong>city</strong>.<br />

Lunch is at the Maidens hotel, where <strong>Lutyens</strong> lived while working in Delhi.<br />

Afternoon: See the British c<strong>an</strong>tonment <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> its surviving 18 th <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> 19 th century buildings, in<br />

particular St James’s church. Continue north to the site of the enormous 1911 Durbar, where on December<br />

12 the King-Emperor George V <strong>an</strong>nounced to 562 rulers that the capital of British India was to move from<br />

Calcutta (Kolkata) to Delhi. The site would be right there – until <strong>Lutyens</strong> decided otherwise.<br />

We end the day with a visit to Imperial hotel, where New Delhi’s inauguration ball was held in 1932. The<br />

builders still own the hotel <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> the public rooms are hung with their remarkable collection of Comp<strong>an</strong>y<br />

School paintings <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> prints, including, appropriately, m<strong>an</strong>y fascinating ones exhibited in the 1911 bar.<br />

Monday March 11 Delhi The Claridges Hotel<br />

We embark on our in-depth exploration the heart of <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s design for New Delhi, looking at<br />

pl<strong>an</strong>s, inspirations, exteriors <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> interiors of buildings including furnishings. This will include Raj Path<br />

(Royal Way) punctuated by <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s India Gate memorial (visit), <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> Herbert Baker’s circular Parliament<br />

House (visit) <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>, up Raisina Hill, his North <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> South Blocks (visit).<br />

The climax of our day: a detailed visit to <strong>Lutyens</strong>’s masterpiece, Government House (Rastrapathi<br />

Bhaw<strong>an</strong>) <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> its Gertrude Jekyll-inspired Mughal Gardens <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> estate, its staff <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> carers.<br />

Note: this <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> some other visits today are dependent on government permission; our schedule,<br />

including lunch, will need to fit with those.<br />

We return to Claridges to prepare for our gala dinner at the renovated Imperial hotel (1933-35)<br />

designed by Reginald Bloomfield.<br />

Preceding the dinner, cocktails (direct payment) are in the Imperial’s aptly named 1911 bar which<br />

displays the Delhi Durbar pictures; more of the hotel owner’s fine collection of Comp<strong>an</strong>y School paintings<br />

<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> prints are displayed throughout the ground floor. Dinner is in D<strong>an</strong>iels restaur<strong>an</strong>t, where we are joined<br />

by four or five New Delhi specialists <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> toast New Delhi’s inauguration on February 9, 1931. Dinner<br />

included in The Tour.<br />

Tuesday March 12 Delhi The Claridge Hotel<br />

We broaden our exploration of New Delhi, looking at buildings <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> townscapes by <strong>Lutyens</strong>,<br />

Baker <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> the whole team of architects including included J A Brodie, G S C Swinton, <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> R T Russell<br />

(who designed more th<strong>an</strong> 4,000 residences <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> civic buildings including Connaught Place shopping mall<br />

inspired by Bath. And we look closely at the horticultural l<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>scaping by Kew-trained William Robertson<br />

Mustoe <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> W S George, to tr<strong>an</strong>sform desert scrub into a lush <strong>garden</strong> <strong>city</strong> of blossoming avenues.<br />

Our stops will include H E N Medd’s two churches, Church of the Redemption <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> Church of the<br />

Sacred Heart, <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> we hope to visit Arthur Shoosmith’s Garrison Church of St Martin (visit). We shall see<br />

Lodi Gardens (where <strong>Lutyens</strong> was obliged to incorporate medieval tombs into his gr<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> pl<strong>an</strong>), the High<br />

Courts, Princes Circle including Jaipur House (now the National Gallery of Modern Art) <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> Hyderabad<br />

House (now used government entertaining, visit dependent on government permission), <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> the National<br />

Museum. We visit some original bungalows, such as Indira G<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>hi’s museum-home <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> the Birla home<br />

(where Mahatma G<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>hi was assassinated).<br />

Early to bed! (see tomorrow)<br />

Wednesday March 13 to Agra Trident Hotel<br />

Deluxe room


Today we go south from Delhi, to visit sites the <strong>Lutyens</strong> visited when he was researching India’s<br />

historic buildings – <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> about which he wrote with great fr<strong>an</strong>kness in his letters <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> diaries.<br />

Very early this morning, we board the train to Agra, departing 06.00hrs, arriving at Agra 08.00hrs.<br />

(This is the only daily service; <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> driving takes 5-6 hours). Today we see some of the great Mughal<br />

buildings created by Akbar (r.1556-1605), his son Jeh<strong>an</strong>gir (r.1605-27) <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> his gr<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>son Shah Jeh<strong>an</strong><br />

(r.1627-58).<br />

We drive straight to Fatehpur Sikri (pausing for coffee/snacks en route) to see Akbar’s <strong>ideal</strong><br />

palace-<strong>city</strong>, a collection of ravishing, exquisitely carved red s<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>stone buildings.<br />

Lunch nearby.<br />

Return to Agra, cross the Yamuna river <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> visit the Tomb of Itimad ud Daula, entirely inlaid with<br />

coloured stones, <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> a recently rediscovered Mughal <strong>garden</strong>, Mehtab Bagh, where we enjoy a beautiful<br />

sunset view of the Taj Mahal – until recently, most people saw the Taj from either the river itself or from<br />

this b<strong>an</strong>k.<br />

Our hotel: part of the quality Oberoi hotel group, contemporary, rooms arr<strong>an</strong>ged around a central<br />

courtyard, efficient staff. www.oberoihotels.com<br />

Thursday March 14 to Gwalior Usha Kir<strong>an</strong> Palace Hotel<br />

Superior rooms<br />

Worth getting up early to experience sunrise at Taj Mahal, Shah Jeh<strong>an</strong>’s wall <strong>garden</strong> tomb for his<br />

wife, Mumtaz, <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> exploring the whole complex in the soft morning light.<br />

Breakfast at our hotel<br />

We visit Agra Fort, India’s greatest riverside fort, started by Akbar, with additions by Jeh<strong>an</strong>gir <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong><br />

Shah Jah<strong>an</strong>. And we visit the craftsmen who today make pietra dura inlay work as it was made for the Taj<br />

Mahal <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> Agra Fort.<br />

After lunch, we drive south to Gwalior, arriving in time to visit the 1874 palace extravag<strong>an</strong>za<br />

designed by Lieut. Col. Sir Michael Filose for the Anglophile Gaekwad (ruler) of Gwalior.<br />

Our hotel: Built as the palace for the maharaja of Gwalior’s guests, this is a delightful, modest, renovated<br />

Art Deco country house. www.tajhotels.com<br />

Friday March 15 Gwalior, then to Delhi The Claridges<br />

Morning visit to the extensive medieval Gwalior Fort that <strong>Lutyens</strong> admired – built on a bluff<br />

above the <strong>city</strong>, with fort, nearby Hindu temples, Sikh pilgrimage gurdwara, monumental Jain sculptures,<br />

<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> a palace built for Jeh<strong>an</strong>gir’s visit.<br />

After early lunch, drive south to visit Datia where the a multi-storey, centrally symmetrical, stone<br />

palace (1620) built by the Bundelkund ruler Bir Singh Deo, impressed <strong>Lutyens</strong> greatly.<br />

Take evening train up to Delhi, departing Jh<strong>an</strong>si at 17.47hrs, arriving Delhi 22.30hrs. Met, taken<br />

to our hotel.<br />

Saturday March 16 Delhi The Claridges<br />

Complete our Delhi sightseeing – there will be meetings with conservationists, restorers <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> their<br />

craftsmen (furniture makers, stone masons, etc). We also hope to have discussions with photography<br />

archivists, go behind the scenes at museum collections.<br />

As our finale, we take a walk along Raj Path <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> up Raisina Hill to enjoy magical a magical<br />

sunset.<br />

Departure from India:<br />

Depart India on Saturday March 16 (late night) OR Sunday March 17 (early hours, early morning or<br />

lunchtime) – it takes 45-60 mins to reach the airport nowadays.<br />

Each client is escorted to the international airport <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> assisted with check-in.<br />

End of The Tour<br />

We are happy to talk with travelers about tailor-made arr<strong>an</strong>gements to extend their visit to India before or after The<br />

Tour.


COST, INCLUSIONS, EXCLUSIONS, TERMS<br />

<strong>Lutyens</strong>’s flawless detail<br />

The Tour Cost: This is in TWO parts, both payable:<br />

Part I: Booking Fee: USD $1,000 per person, the non-refundable Booking Fee secures your place<br />

<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong><br />

Part II: The Tour: USD $5,600 per person when sharing a room<br />

The single room supplement for The Tour is USD $1,530 per person<br />

The Cost includes, per person:<br />

‘The Tour’ refers to the itinerary above, the period Friday February 22 – Thursday March 7, 2013<br />

• The services of Louise Nicholson as consult<strong>an</strong>t <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> resource before <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> during The Tour<br />

• C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia <strong>Lutyens</strong> accomp<strong>an</strong>ying The Tour<br />

• The services of Quo Vadis Travel’s representatives <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> local English-speaking professional guides throughout The Tour,<br />

together with entr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> still camera fees for all monuments <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> museums in The Tour above<br />

• ACCOMODATION: 8 nights in hotels, in the category indicated; check-in time is usually 2pm, check-out time noon<br />

• MEALS: Breakfast <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> lunch from breakfast March 10 to lunch March 16, table d’hote, at restaur<strong>an</strong>ts set out in The Tour<br />

or chosen by Louise Nicholson, including mineral water. Dinner on March 11 at D<strong>an</strong>iels (or, similar st<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ard), excluding<br />

alcohol, including bottled water. Note: room service meals must be paid for separately, at check-out. breakfasts; lunches<br />

• TRANSPORT: All ground tr<strong>an</strong>sportation as described in The Tour, in one air-conditioned bus, including bottle water; by<br />

rickshaw (Old Delhi); by train (Delhi-Agra, Jh<strong>an</strong>si-Delhi, including bottled water)<br />

• SIGHTSEEING: Entr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> still camera fees to all monuments <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> museums visited during tour sightseeing<br />

• All tips to drivers, bell hops, guides; <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> to porters at airports, hotels, boats <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> railway stations<br />

• All presently applicable taxes for the above, as of June 2012. Should others be imposed, a surcharge may be payable<br />

The Cost does not include:<br />

• International airfares or <strong>an</strong>y extra travel outside The Tour; <strong>an</strong>y optional visits, upgrades or pre/post tour bookings<br />

• Any insur<strong>an</strong>ce: e.g. personal travel, health, luggage. It is vital to consider taking adequate cover<br />

• Expenses of personal nature such as alcohol, laundry, room service, excess baggage fees.<br />

• Personal tips throughout the tour (please allow about $100 for local guides, drivers, etc)<br />

• Medical requirements, excess baggage h<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ling, etc<br />

• Visa, required for all foreign nationals visiting India; it is the sole responsibility of each client to acquire their visa<br />

• Video camera charges; these should be paid direct at the time of entry<br />

• Anything not specified in the Itinerary or Inclusions. (Note: hotel lunches, all dinners, all alcohol are not included)<br />

Terms:<br />

- There must be a minimum of 10 particip<strong>an</strong>ts on The Tour. If fewer, it will be re-priced; the client may accept or c<strong>an</strong>cel at no charge<br />

- The Tour price <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> dates are firm, within the parameters of the Inclusions <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> set out above.<br />

- The Booking Fee is non-refundable if a client c<strong>an</strong>cels; it is refundable if Louise Nicholson c<strong>an</strong>cels The Tour, or the price increases<br />

- Payment of The Tour full cost is by J<strong>an</strong>uary 1, 2013. Each client will be invoiced. Clients are welcome to make full payment as<br />

early as they wish. If paying in currencies other th<strong>an</strong> USD, the rate of exch<strong>an</strong>ge should be the date of payment.<br />

- C<strong>an</strong>cellation charges per person: up to J<strong>an</strong>uary 1, 2013, nil; from J<strong>an</strong>uary 1 to March 8, 2013, 50% of twin-sharing tour cost; after<br />

March 8. 2-13, 100% of twin-sharing tour cost.<br />

- No insur<strong>an</strong>ce is included. We strongly advise particip<strong>an</strong>ts to consider cover for health, luggage, personal possessions, trip or flight<br />

c<strong>an</strong>cellations/delays, <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> all tour-related needs<br />

- Hotels <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> flights are booked in good faith; <strong>an</strong>y ch<strong>an</strong>ges we are obliged to make are beyond our control


EDWIN LUTYENS AND NEW DELHI<br />

- AN IDEAL GARDEN CITY<br />

An in-depth visit to the 20 th century’s finest pl<strong>an</strong>ned <strong>city</strong><br />

With Louise Nicholson <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> C<strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong>ia <strong>Lutyens</strong><br />

Saturday March 9 – Saturday March 16, 2013<br />

BOOKING FORM<br />

Please complete <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> send with your Booking Fee to:<br />

Louise Nicholson, 135 East 54 th Street, #15K, New York, NY 10022, USA<br />

Personal information:<br />

NAME(S) as on passport ……………………………………………………………………………………<br />

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….<br />

Address………………………………………………………..……………………………………………..<br />

Telephone (day) …………………….. (evening) ……………………. (cell) …...…………………………<br />

E-mail address (s) ……………………………………………………………………………………………<br />

The Tour:<br />

Please reserve: Twin-sharing place/s in double room ………….. Single places …………………….<br />

Where possible I would prefer a) a double bed …………… b) twin beds …………………….<br />

I am single but, if the option arises, would be happy to share throughout The Tour …..………………….<br />

Upgrades: Please send me the full list of optional hotel upgrades ……………………………….. .…….....<br />

I would like to discuss other ways of extending my trip at the start/end of The Tour ………………………<br />

I enclose the non-refundable Booking Fee of $1,000 per person to confirm my/our places, total $...……….<br />

(If you wish to pay in sterling or by b<strong>an</strong>k tr<strong>an</strong>sfer, please ask for details)<br />

I agree to the Conditions <strong><strong>an</strong>d</strong> Terms as set out above<br />

Signed ………………………………………………….. Date ……………………………….

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