Summer 2012 Gazette - The Alpine Club of Canada

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The Alpine Club of CanadaPublications Mail Agreement No. 40009034Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to:The Alpine Club of CanadaBox 8040, Canmore, ABCanada T1W 2T8Phone: (403) 678‐3200Fax: (403) 678‐3224info@alpineclubofcanada.cawww.alpineclubofcanada.caExecutive CommitteePeter Muir PresidentGordon Currie SecretaryNeil Bosch TreasurerSelena Swets VP Access & EnvironmentZac Robinson VP ActivitiesCarl Hannigan VP FacilitiesIsabelle Daigneault VP Mountain CultureDavid Foster VP ServicesMarjory Hind Honorary PresidentLawrence White Executive DirectorPublicationLynn Martel Gazette EditorSuzan Chamney Layout & ProductionNathalie Delbecq TranslatorNathalie Roulin TranslatorSubmissionsSubmissions to the Gazette are welcome!For submission guidelines, please e-mailthe Gazette Editor with your ideas atgazette@alpineclubofcanada.caAdvertisingAdvertising rate sheet available on the website orby request. Please direct all advertising inquiriesto Suzan Chamney, National Office by e‐mail to:ads@alpineclubofcanada.cafacebook.com/alpineclubofcanadaWhat’s Inside...Members6 Roger Neave recognized for climbs,ACC contributions12 Mon bénévole préféré: OrvelMiskew13 My favourite volunteer: OrvelMiskewMountaineering / Climbing8 Waddington expedition a fun, safetrip10 Tobacco Road revisited15 Canada’s first World Cup comp aroaring success18 Rock on in Mexico!26 Success, tragedy on EverestSafety14 Cultivating the “safety culture” ofthe ACCFacilities30 Littlest custodians visit ElizabethParker HutWhat’s Outside...Cover photo:Mountain Culture / Science21 Books ends22 Yoho and Glacier national parkscelebrate 125 years28 Wolverine study yields valuable furand factsEditorial / National News / Awards6 Short rope8 What’s your dream trip?8 Qu’elle est votre voyage de rêve?12 ACC Grants awarded in 201123 Winter TNF Leadership Course24 John Lauchlan Memorial Award24 Heritage Club milestones24 Recherche d’itinéraire25 Route finding25 National Volunteer Awards25 Prix nationaux pour bénévoles29 Executive Committee slateannounced31 Open air31 À ciel ouvertNick Matwyuk, Simen Vogt-Svendsen, Kjell Erik Reinhardtsen,Christian Veenstra and Line Veenstra walk the Homathko Mainlinecarrying heavy loads, Mount Waddington in the background. Photo bySteve Mullen. Story on page 8.twitter.com/alpineclubcanInset photo:Pierre Jordache rappells down La Gran Ilusion, 5.10 on El Diente. Photoby Marie-Marthe Gagnon. Story on page 18.Corporate SupportersThe Alpine Club of Canada thanks the following for their support, and encourages you to consider themand the advertisers in this newsletter the next time you purchase goods or services of the type they offer.Corporate SponsorsCorporate MembersBackcountry AccessBlack Diamond EquipmentCHM Heli-SkiingDevonian PropertiesForty BelowGolden Alpine HolidaysJardine Lloyd ThompsonLafargeOrtovox CanadaOsprey PacksOutdoor ResearchPatagoniaRocky Mountain BooksZaui SoftwareClub alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 5

Roger Neave recognized for climbs,ACC contributionsLynn climbs the final crux snowbank atthe trailhead parking lot after skiing thethree-day, 50-kilometre Six Pass routefrom Maligne Lake to Sunwapta wardenstation in Jasper National Park in April2011. photo by Julie Muller.Short ropeby Lynn Martelare you guys feeling aboutour objective right now?” Alan“Howasked.Four of us were skinning slowly intoa cloud high above the Columbia Icefieldon the upper slopes of “No Name” peak,directly southwest of Mount Andromedain Jasper National Park.Alan was asking the question becauseas we climbed higher, the temperaturewas inching higher too, causing thecharacter of the snow to morph under ourskis.He was asking what we were all wondering—shouldwe continue up, or enjoythe ski run down from where we were?With that question though, I mulledover another thought.What is our objective, anyway?For me, the answer is always simple:to go have a fun, safe adventure in themountains from which all members ofthe party return home in one piece. Thetwo parts of that sentence, or that goal,cannot be separated. They comprise asingle goal.The summit, any summit, is optional.Icing on the cake, especially on thoseclear sky, see forever days, but not an“objective” that can be definitivelydecided upon in an e-mail, in the parkinglot or over a couple of beers with mapsspread across the floor. Once you leavethe trailhead, all plans are tentative.Unfortunately, several accidentsinvolving ACC members really reminded6 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011by Lindsay ElmsRoger Neave was born inMacclesfield, Cheshire, Englandin 1906. He had four brothers andone sister. Two of his brothers, Ferris andHugh, (both of whom predeceased him),climbed extensively with him in Canadaand made their own significant contributionsto Canadian mountaineering.Roger arrived in Canada in 1928,joining his brother, Ferris, who was afreshwater biologist at the University ofManitoba at the time. For most of hisprofessional life, Roger worked as a civilengineer with Imperial Oil Company inSarnia, Ontario.While in Winnipeg, both brotherswere initiated into climbing by AlexMcCoubrey. That initiation grew into afull-blown passion, as the mountains ofCanada became, for Roger, a life-longlove. Over the years he made some 35first ascents: the first was in 1929 inthe Mount Toby area of BC’s PurcellMountains with Ferris and McCoubrey.The last was in 1978 on a 5,000-metrepeak in the Champará Range of Peru’sCordillera Blanca with his brother Hugh,Ralph Hutchinson, Joe Bajan, DaveFisher and Paul McEwan.In the 49 years between those events,and afterward too, Roger climbedme of this over the past winter season, asthree Alpine Club of Canada memberslost their lives in avalanches on ski touringadventures.Everyone who knew them deeplymisses the company of Ray Norman,Manfred Rockel and Brenda Desnoyers.While the circumstances of the twoaccidents that claimed their lives aredifferent, as fellow ACC members weshare a few things—the feelings of lossthat come with the death of a friend, butalso the gaining of knowledge that comeswith learning from events that have led toserious accidents in the mountains.In this ridiculously over-connectedage of YouTube and Facebook andreality TV, climbing and associated selfpropelledmountain activities are receivingmore media attention than ever. Onething that hasn’t changed much however,Roger Neave, front, sits with Rafe Hutchinson onthe ridge of Mount Noel in 1977. photo Gil Parker.extensively in the Rockies (including thefirst ascent of the Molar Tower in 1933)and in all the major ranges in BritishColumbia. He made four expeditions intothe Premier Group of the Cariboo Range,three into the Stikine Icecap and oneto the Yukon. He also attended numerousAlpine Club of Canada camps. Hisoverseas climbing included two expeditionsto the Cordillera Blanca (four firstascents); Africa, where he climbed MountKilimanjaro in 1973 with Paddy Sherman,Ralph Hutchinson and Scipio Merler;Guatemala; Europe’s Alps; and Britain’sLakes District. He also led three treksto Nepal, the last being in 1988. Rogerremained an active climber and skier tothe end of his life.One of his most ambitious expeditionswas in 1934, when he attemptedto climb Mount Waddington, in BC’sis which stories garner the biggestheadlines: successful climbs to the highestsummits, and tragic, dishearteningaccidents.What never makes the headlines areall those invaluable moments when thethousands of people, who are out climbingor backcountry skiing every day ofthe year all over the world’s magnificentmountains, make the good solid decisionsthat keep them safe to climb another day.Yup, boring, but really, those stories arethe truly important ones.One more thing ACC members canall feel especially good about sharing: thedesire and the commitment to a simple,clear goal to have fun, safe adventures inthe mountains from which all membersof the party return home in one broadlysmiling piece. What better way to honourall our partners in adventure?

Coast Mountains. At the time, 10 parties(including the partnership of Donand Phyllis Munday) had failed intheir attempts on the mountain, and itssummit had become one of the mostsought after prizes in Canada. In 1933,McCoubrey convinced both Roger andFerris to attempt the mountain via a routenot yet attempted by the Mundays. Rogerand Ferris drove out from Winnipeg toTatlayoko Lake in the Chilcotin, which,in those days, was no mean feat. WithCam Secord and Arthur Davidson, theyrowed their gear down the lake, thenwith the help of horses, progressed tothe eastern entrance of the HomathcoCanyon, a fierce gorge that cuts throughthe heart of the Coast Mountains to ButeInlet. All the previous parties had followedthe Franklin Glacier approach firstpioneered by the Mundays. They spentthree weeks relaying loads before theyfinally set up their camp at the base ofthe mountain on the Tiedemann Glacierbelow Rainy Knob. It was two trying daysbefore they finally succeeded in reachingSpearman Col. In poor conditions theymade a reconnoiter to the base of thefinal rock tower, but with driving snowthey returned to camp.The next day, with time running out,they had no choice but to make the finalattack in obscuring snow flurries. Afterseveral attempts they managed to getacross the bergshrund, which put theparty on the mountain’s east face, butin conditions where fresh snow coveredverglas-sheathed rock. With daylighthours running out in tediously slowclimbing conditions, they concededdefeat less than 150 metres below thesummit. Their descent continued to bean epic and they were forced to bivy inan ice cave near the bergshrund wherethey sat out an overnight snowstorm. Thenext day they reached basecamp in clearingweather but, with no supplies for afurther attempt, they had to admit defeatwhen victory was so close. Their returntrip was an epic of equal proportions,exacerbated by their lack of food. As amemorial to their valiant attempt, twopeaks have been named for them: MountFerris and Mount Roger.Roger’s love of the mountains ledhim to devote much of his time to ACCaffairs, and in recognition of his leadershiphe was awarded the Silver Rope in1934. He was a frequent leader at Clubcamps and when he was elected to theThink outside.board of directors, he brought to it hispractical common sense, as well as hisinstinct of what was appropriate.In 1966 Roger was elected President ofthe ACC, an office he held for two years.It was while he was president that theClub sponsored and organized the 1967Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition.Roger moved to Vancouver Island in 1970and joined the Vancouver Island Section,becoming section chair in 1973.Roger retired in 1968 but never gaveup all the interests he was involved with,which were many. Ralph Hutchinsonwrote of Roger: “He was a small, wiryWith over 100,000 copies ofprevious editions sold, GilleanDaffern’s bestselling hiking guidesto Kananaskis Country have beencompletely reformatted, revisedand updated. The previous twovolumes have been extended intofive exhaustively researched books.As the pre-eminent expert on thearea, Gillean continues to offersomething for every level of traveller,from novice to experienced hikers,scramblers or backpackers.Lynn Martel’s vast experienceand insight into the top activitiesfor tourists, locals and the mostintrepid weekend warriors infuse thiscollection of 20 of her best adventurestories. Complete with colour photosand maps, difficulty ratings, seasonaldetails and more, these stories willinspire everyone seeking adventurein Kananaskis Country, Canmore,Lake Louise, and Banff, Yoho andJasper national parks.man of surprising strength. Whenever heput on his boots and donned his parka andpack, he acquired an extra dimension; hisface would light up, and his enthusiasmwould infect even the most reluctant.”Roger died suddenly at his home inCedar, near Nanaimo, on Nov. 17, 1992at the age of 85. His wife, Francis, hadpassed away in 1990.Editor’s note: A film recording theNeaves’ 1934 journey from Ontarioto Mount Waddington is rumoredto exist. Anyone with informationabout such a film is asked to contactgazette@alpineclubofcanada.caClub alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 7

Waddington expedition a fun, safe tripby Line VeenstraThe 30-plus kilos in my backpackfelt like they were crushing me;every step was a struggle. Lookingup from the gravel of the HomathkoMainline road, I saw a depressing yellowsign: “2 miles”. Ahead were morethan 40 kilometres of flat logging road,a marathon in telemark boots with 17days’ ski mountaineering gear and food.I had carried similar weight before, but Ihad never imagined how much it wouldslow me down on a flat, well-maintainedlogging road. Somehow I thought weightonly mattered when going uphill.Three days earlier, Simen Vogt-Svendsen, Kjell Erik Reinhardtsen,Nick Matwyuk, Steve Mullen, ChristianVeenstra and I left BC’s Quadra Islandin three double kayaks to paddle 100kilometres to Bute Inlet. We planned tocomplete a self-propelled, self-supportedtrip to the Waddington Range by kayak,foot and ski. We hoped to climb MountWaddington’s northwest summit, but ourmain goal was to enjoy the beauty of therange in a safe and fun way.Everything went well until the road;we all struggled. Moving at two kilometresper hour, I saw the days of skiingLine Veenstra takes advantage of the sparse snowon the Coola Creek logging road.photo by Nick Matwyuk.in the beautiful Waddington Rangedisappearing in the dust of the loggingroad. I felt discouraged and depressed, butwith the guys taking a few things frommy backpack and Steve’s endless supplyof stories, I managed to regain the joy ofthe self-supported adventure.Two and a half days after steppingonto the Homathko road, we reachedScar Camp. Four kilometres along theHomathko River we finally turned upCoola Creek and began gaining elevation.Although our speed was even slower, Iwas excited to be approaching the alpine,the snow and the magical moment whenwe could step into our skis. The followingday the views of the WaddingtonRange increased while the road conditiondecreased; slide alder and landslides areslowly taking over the Coola Creek loggingroad. A few hours of struggling withbig packs in the slide alder wasn’t enoughto discourage us though, because soon wewere on skis.The next couple of days we madegreat progress. It felt great to finallyreach the top of Scar Mountain andthereafter, the alpine. Looking back downthe Homathko Mainline, I felt proud tohave come all that way. We even manageda few turns after summitting PivotDome. By day seven we were cruising,skiing around Martello onto Bert Glacierand then the upper part of WaddingtonGlacier. Arriving at Mystery Pass fairlyearly, we decided to try Mount Munday.Nick Matwyuk, Simen Vogt-Svendsen, Kjell ErikReinhardtsen and Christian Veenstra check outAngel Glacier. photo by Steve Mullen.Feeling uncomfortable with the sun–affected snow at the short steep sectionthat gains the ridge, especially with thesun still baking the rest of the slope,Christian, Nick and I turned aroundwhile the rest continued, and succeeded.That night we camped in Ice Valley, aplace well named as there was ice everywhere,and freezing temperatures. Thatwas probably the first night we reallyneeded the enormous snow wall the boyshad been erecting every night thus far.On day eight we started early to crossWhat’s your dream trip?If you are a young woman with anidea for a mountain adventure considerapplying to the Jen HigginsFund to help make it a reality. The Fundis awarded annually to young womenaged approximately 17 to 30 carryingout their own creative, self-propelledmountain adventures. Trips need not behighly technical in order to be successful,but should provide a challenge tothe applicant as well as give back to thecommunity in some way. For selectioncriteria and trip reports of past recipientsvisit www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/grants/higgins.html. Deadline to applyis January 31 each year.Qu’elle est votre voyage de rêve?Si vous êtes une jeune femme avec uneidée pour une aventure en montagne,envisager d’appliquer au Fonds JenHiggins pour aider à en faire une réalité. LeFonds est décerné chaque année à des jeunesfemmes âgées de 17 à 30 ans pour appuyerleurs aventures en montagne. Les voyagessubventionnés ne doivent pas forcémentêtre très technique, mais doivent fournirun défi à la requérante ainsi que redonnerà sa communauté d’une façon ou uneautre. Pour les critères de sélection et desrapports de voyage de récipiendaires, visitezwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/grants/higgins.html. Date limite de candidaturele 31 janvier de chaque année.

Talon 33 1_3SQ EN ACC Gazette.pdf 1 3/18/11 7:27 PMJester Pass before the sun hit, and to setup camp on Dias Glacier early for oursummit attempt the following day. I wasquite nervous about the upcoming climb;the Dias Glacier looked quite brokenup. We went to bed at 4 p.m., thenrose at midnight. I soon realized thatWaddington was a mountain too big forme, so I turned around. It felt weird beingat the tents alone, and I was relievedCwhen everybody reappeared on the DiasGlacier at 10 a.m. They had climbed to M500 metres below the summit, but turnedYaround because the Angel Glacier wasCMmostly water ice covered with powderMYsnow—poor conditions, particularly witha two-kilometre high cliff for a run out. CYWe spent the rest of the day eating.CMYWe stayed at our Dias Camp the nextKcouple of days to climb other nearbypeaks. On day 10, Christian, Simen, Nickand I summitted Cavalier Mountain.The following day was NorwegianConstitution Day, so we proudly hoistedthe Norwegian flag in early morning andit travelled with Kjell and Simen all day.Unable to choose an objective, we splitup. Kjell, Simen and Nick attemptedThe Tit, but unfortunately were turnedaround at the nipple. Steve, Christian andI had better luck on Finality. It was quitethe summit, giving us an impressive viewover the range, including a glimpse ofKnight Inlet. Finality had been at the topof my list, so I was super excited. The skidown was even enjoyable!Through regular contact with WhiteSaddle Air via VHF radio, they informedus bad weather was coming in, so on day 12we woke early and returned to Ice Valley.Despite bad weather we reached ScarMountain in a day and a half. Lookingdown at the Homathko Mainline, a partof me wanted to walk all the way back,to do it self-propelled. Another part—arather large part—hoped that Chuck,Homathko Camp owner, would offer usa ride back in the pick-up he had stashedon this side of the river. I held my breathas Christian called him on the VHF, butdidn’t have to for long because almostimmediately Chuck offered us a ride. Weenjoyed a shower, good food and a real bedat Homathko Camp.The kayak back wasn’t as easy asthe way in. We struggled with winds,a bear tried to eat a drybag containingNick’s sleeping bag, and we spent a daypulled over on big boulders. A couple offishermen tried to help us by towing ourkayaks, but it was a gong show. A fewhundred metres from shore the first kayaktipped, so we turned around. At least itwas fun while it lasted, and as consolationthe fishermen fed us some fresh prawnchowder; the best I’d ever tasted.The following night we rose at midnightand were on the water an hour later.It was beautifully calm and we had noproblem paddling through the narrows.Five days after leaving Homathko Campwe reached Quadra Island, excited atcompleting a fun and safe trip.Many thanks to the Alpine Club ofCanada’s Jen Higgins Memorial Fund forhelping to make this adventure happen.Steve Mullen, Simen Vogt-Svendsen, Kjell Erik Reinhardtsen, Christian Veenstra and Line Veenstra take anap under the tap while waiting for better weather. photo by Nick Matwyuk.

Tobacco Road revisitedby Andrea PetzoldAt the start of a great adventure, it’s fun to sometimes havea ritual during that time. Maybe it’s a tiny bit bad, but it’san odd reminder that makes that adventure a bit special.For us, the ritual was Drum tobacco, two packs of Zig Zagrolling papers and a plastic lighter. We collected in late March,2011, and almost 18 years had passed since the four of us hadspent any time together, really. Oh yes, there were some 50thbirthdays and a few weddings, but these visits were often pepperedwith interruptions and not like the “real thing”—likespending time together in the mountains.In the spring of 1993, Mary Clayton, Sylvia Forest, LeanneAllison and I climbed the east ridge of Mount Logan, and nowwe were in Nelson, BC instead of Whitehorse, YK for an adventureon the Bonnington ski traverse. Of course we packed someDrum tobacco and two packs of Zig Zag rolling papers and aplastic lighter.The Bonnington Range is a low rangeof mountains southwest of Nelson in theSelkirks and the traverse forms a horseshoethat wraps around the head of ErieCreek. There are three “Kootenay style”cabins with firewood and Coleman stovesalong the way, making our packs comfortableand this four-day ski one of the moreenjoyable tours I’ve done. Although thereis easy access, warm cabins and moderatedistances, to call this ski traverse a beginnertrip would be a mistake. The springweather in the Kootenays can often bewarm, wet and windy. These low-levelcabins are tucked away in the BC bush,making them a challenge to find. Morethan one entry in the logbook writes,“thank goodness for global positioning”.From a public Internet posting, we10 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011From left, Mary Clayton, Sylvia Forest, Leanne Allison and Andrea Petzold restat the doorstep of the Copper Cabin on the Bonnington traverse in BC’s WestKootenays. photo by Andrea Petzold.downloaded the exact route and carriedtwo GPS units programmed from separatesources. We zipped together mapsheets 82 F/4, 82 F/5 and 82 F/6 from atopographic mapping program.To coordinate shuttling a car, weopted to hire a taxi, leaving one car at thefinish which saved us a drive back to thestart after a long and rainy final day. Wehighly recommend this—it’s cheap andsuper convenient.At the Bombi Summit on CrowsnestHighway 3, 20 kilometres west of Salmo,we followed the power line along frozensnowmobile tracks and chatted. After sixkilometres or so, we left the power lineand aimed northeast for an obvious saddleat UTM 640 587. This ridge is treedand although many ski tracks headedMary Clayton and Andrea Petzold take in the view at dusk—and a few turns above the Steed Cabin.photo by Leanne Allison.in many directions, no one track was anobvious route to the hut. We located theGrassy Cabin by following the GPS.We loved the funky nature of therough-sawn log door and make-dobench—a great place for rolling. Allcabins require an advance bookingand this can be done online atwww.kootenaymountianeering.bc.cafor a $10 fee per person, per night—norefunds.We were glad for the unexpected goodweather, despite a rather poor forecast. It’snot inspiring to be shuffling along in fog;it’s also a bit stressful. From Grassy Cabinwe headed north, meandering along theridge and eventually busting throughtreeline at 2,000 metres, while grabbingviews west to the nearby town ofCastlegar and the Kootenay River below.A pond at the headwaters of GladeCreek in the canopy of trees provided afine lunch spot out of the wind. Gainingthe saddle west of Marble Lake (UTM671 658) goes a bit easier by staying ona low-angle traverse to reach the mostnorthern part of the saddle. The SteedCabin is 500 metres beyond in an openforest, but the heavy snowfall this yearhad just about buried the place. Withthe roof-line camouflaged from only 50metres away, I loved the adventure. Wedumped some stuff and took an earlyevening ski to the ridge. Then we rolledone, sitting on our packs at the cabindoor. This is the obvious place to spend anextra day, with plenty of inviting ski runsof moderate length and steepness on theeastern flanks of Siwash Mountain.On our third day, we ventured through

the keyhole at UTM 684 677 to views ofSnowwater Creek, Mount Connor andCopper Mountain. We shuffled alongthe shoreline of Rocket Ship Lake, aswe called it, because it is shaped like oneon the map. Our travelling conditionswere great with good stability and goodvisibility, so we aimed directly for CopperCabin from UTM 698 699, descendingto UTM 705 700 and then marching tothe hut. The Copper Cabin register had avery comical entry, poetically complainingabout the daylight view roof, a shortdoorway and never-ending icy drip window—allgood value.Our final day was long and rainy. Ablizzard on the alpine ridge of EmpirePeak turned into a rain shower in BarrettCreek with nearly 1400 metres elevationloss. The ski down to Barrett Lake hadrapidly changing snow—the south aspecthad hero skiing that morphed to gorillaskiing in a short distance. As predicted,the logging road along Barrett Creek waswell packed by snowmobiles. This racetrackgave a good leg burn for our last fewhours. I noticed how I love the smell ofthe BC cedars, the sound of open waterand the outline of my ski buddy ahead.Good thinking for Leanne to pack somebeer in the snowbank near thecar. Our next stop would be theOsoNegro Café in Nelson and acomplete change of clothes.Times haven’t changedmuch, really, since 1993. We stilllove an adventure and being atiny bit bad, rolling a rag top andscanning the group to see whois ready to join in. This ritual isfollowed by candid conversationssolving all the problems ofthe world. The only problem wedidn’t solve is the destination ofour next adventure.“So long as the memory ofcertain beloved friends lives in myheart, I shall say that life is good.”–Helen KellerTop: Leanne Allison carves a turn below SiwashMountain in BC’s West Kootenays.photo by Andrea Petzold.Right: From left, Sylvia Forest, Leanne Allison,Mary Clayton and Andrea Petzold arrive at theglacier below Mount Logan in May 1993.photo by legendary northern pilot Andy Williams.You will never sleep with another.Marmot Tent CollectionJust one way Marmot helpsyou bond with nature.Photography: Mick Follari, Brad Clementmarmot.com • facebook.com/marmotpro

Mon bénévole préféré: Orvel Miskewpar Gabrielle SavardOrvel Miskew est un membreactif du Club Alpin du Canadadepuis plus de 30 ans. Cela estcertainement un accomplissement en soismême.Ce qui distingue Orvel desautres membres du Club avec autantd’expérience, c’est sont engagementcontinuel et sa dévotion en tant quebénévolat. En travaillant come bénévoleOrvel a entrepris plusieurs activités cequi inclut guide amateur pour les campsaux niveaux nationaux ainsi que pour lessections. Il a aussi publié quelques articlesau sujet de la sureté dans les montagnes,et servi à plusieurs comités. Tels que descomités sociaux, de la sécurité nationale,les comités des prix, ainsi que les comitésde l’escalade, et du ski, avec la section deCalgary.Un des plus grand talent d’Orvelest sont enthousiasme pour le maintien,réparation, et coordination de l’utilisationd’équipement de la section de Calgary. Telque les tentes, cuisinières d’arrière pays,les kits de premiers soins et de réparations,les abris bivouacs, les pèles, lesbêches et même les latrines – peu importeil en prend soins! Encore plus importantc’est que pendant plusieurs annéesOrvel s’est dédier en tant que mentor àtout débutant qui avait un grand désirentd’escalader. Avec générosité il partageses connaissances sa sagesse ainsi quesont temps - une commodité qui est rarede nos jours. J’étais ému en regardantcet homme prendre son propre tempspour amener les nouveaux grimpeursdans les collines et les escarpements,et d’encourager les vieux amis de montagnesà grimper aux sommets aprèsqu’ils s’étaient absentés pendant plusieursannées.J’ai rencontré Orvel pour la premièrefois en 1995 au Camp Généralde l’Alpinisme Clemenceau. C’est làque j’ai remarqué sa patience inspiranteavec les novices. Orvel prenait toujoursle temps de réviser les points les plusimportants durant la prise de décisionen sorti d’alpinisme. Aux courants desannées il a écrit plusieurs articles à cesujet et à d’autres, par exemple le meilleuréquipement à avoir lors d’un bivouacimprévu aux sommets des montagnes. Mapremière expérience avec tel besoin m’estarrivée il y a quelques années lorsque nousavions atterri au sommet du Mont Brockà minuit. D’après ses amis, partenaires etdébutants, les systèmes uniques développéspar Orvel pour assurer la sécurité del’escaladeur sont légendaire. Récemmentje me suis fièrement procuré une de sesinvention nommé «l’ombilical ajustable»,ce qui a été conçue pour protégerle premier de cordée sur la glace. Il estfameux pour partager ses idées et sa«technologie» avec n’import qui intéressé– et assez curieux pour essayer ses propresfabrications.ACC Grants awarded in 2011The Alpine Club of Canada is pleased to make available more than $18,000 ingrants this year to a number of worthy mountain-related projects.The Jen Higgins Memorial Fund is awarded to Vancouver climber LauraMorrison for her proposed climb of Denali in Alaska, an expedition which includesresearch into altitude sickness.The Karl Nagy Award is presented to Trevor Carter, an aspirant guide living inCalgary, Alberta.The Environment Fund is divided among:●●Meghan Anderson, who will receive $200 towards her study on the effects of loggingactivity on mountain caribou and moose populations.●●Natalie Stafl, who will receive $2,000 to study the effects of trails on the American●●pika.The Nature Conservancy, which will receive $2,000 to help develop a conservationvolunteer program in Alberta’s Crowsnest Pass region.To learn more about the ACC’s financial grants and awards, visitwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/grants/index.htmlOrvel Miskew describes his latest gear inventionat the base of Chantilly Falls in Evan-ThomasCreek, Kananaskis Country, Alberta. photo by Gabrielle Savard.Orvel continue l’escalade en hivercomme en été, même après 30 ans avecle club. Et il est en meilleur forme quela majorité des autres escaladeurs. Ceuxqui sans doute et essaye de le dépasser enmontagnes feront face à un sérieux défi!Orvel aime être le premier en cordée,mais il est plus heureux lorsqu’il peutcompter sur un grimpeur passionné pourmener la route, car il peut garder un œilvers l’arrière. Finalement pour ceux quinon pas eux la chance de passer du tempsavec Orvel dans les montagnes, j’espèreque vous pourrez un jour jouir et partagerde son enthousiasme et de sa passionpour les montagnes. Merci Orvel!Gabrielle Savard est un membrede la section de Calgary ainsi que lasection des Rocheuses. Si vous voulezécrire au sujet de votre bénévolepréféré, s’il-vous-plaît veuillez contacter:gazette@alpineclubofcanada.caTranslated by ACC member NathalieDelbecq.12 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011

My favourite volunteer: Orvel Miskewby Gabrielle SavardOrvel Miskew has been an activemember of the Alpine club ofCanada’s Calgary Section formore than 30 years. That is certainly anaccomplishment on its own merit.But what distinguishes Orvel fromother Club members who have beenaround for as many years, is his ongoingcommitment and dedication as a volunteer.Among his numerous volunteeractivities are his serving as amateurleader for camps at both the nationaland section levels, publishing articlesabout mountain safety issues and servingon various committees, including CalgarySection climbing, skiing and social committees,and National safety and awardscommittees.One of Orvel’s greatest talents is hisenthusiasm for maintaining, repairing andcoordinating the use of all the CalgarySection gear used for different sectioncamps, including tents, stoves, first aidand repair kits, bivy shelters, shovels,spades and even latrines—you name it,he’s looked after it!But more, and probably most importantly,Orvel has for many years served asa dedicated mentor for aspiring climbersof all ages. He generously shares his vastknowledge and his wisdom as well aswillingly sharing his time—a far morevaluable commodity these days. I havewatched with awe as he has gone out ofhis way to take new climbers out on tripsto the hills and the crags, and to coaxolder climbing friends back up a mountainafter some years of abstinence.My first encounter with Orvel happenedat the 1995 Clemenceau GeneralMountaineering Camp. It was there Ifirst noticed that his patient demeanourwith novices was particularly inspiring.Orvel would always take the time toreview the finer points of decision makingin mountaineering. Over the years hehas written numerous articles on this andother topics, such as the best bivy gear tohave in your pack for those unplannedovernight stays on peaks. My ownfirsthand experience with such a needcame a few years back when we landed onthe summit of Mount Brock at midnight.Among his many friends, partnersand acolytes, Orvel’s unique “systems” foroptimizing climber safety are nothing lessthan legendary. Just recently I becamethe proud owner of a set of his patented“adjustable umbilicals”, which aredesigned to protect a lead climber on ice.He is famous for generously sharing hisideas and his “technology” with anyoneinterested—and curious—enough to tryout his designs.Even after 30 years with the Club,Orvel continues to climb regularly inwinter and summer, and is fitter thanmost out there. Any doubters who mighttry to outpace him in the mountainswould definitely be up for a serious challenge!Orvel does love to lead, but is evenhappier when he can trust a keen climberon the sharp end of the rope while subtlykeeping an eye on things from behind.Finally, for those who have not yetbeen fortunate enough to spend time inthe hills with Orvel, my wish is that youmay be able to do so, and to enjoy sharinghis unabashed enthusiasm and passion forthe mountains. Thank you Orvel!Gabrielle Savard is a member ofboth the Calgary and Rocky Mountainsections. If you’d like to write aboutyour favourite volunteer, please contactgazette@alpineclubofcanada.caAlpine Club of CanadaMOUNTAIN ADVENTURESFILLING FAST!Join us on the trip of a lifetime!Development Camp:Under-25 Rock July 4 - July 8, 2011 $695Introductory Course:First Summits June 30 - July 4, 2011 $1,095ACC Classic:Wapta Taverse July 16 - July 23, 2011 $1,695www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/adventures/Club alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 13

Cultivating the “safety culture” of the ACCby Ernst Bergmann“Mountaineering is a risk sport with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept therisks, as they cannot be eliminated. Assessments of them, planning how best to meet them and coping with them are an integral part of mountaineering.It is the overcoming of risk that provides the special stimulus and satisfaction. Participants should take responsibility for their ownactions and involvement.”—UIAA Policy on Mountain SafetyIfirst got involved in “extreme” sports—climbing, kayaking and eventually,backcountry skiing—as a teenagergrowing up in Germany. Back then,somebody who knew much more aboutit than I, provided me with some wordsof wisdom: if you do this a lot and longenough, it is not a matter of if, but justa matter of when you will be confrontedwith a big wreck.I didn’t actually understand the adviceI was given back then, but took it to heartover time anyway. I got training andeducated myself about safety and rescue,preparing for what might happen someday.The advice also proved prophetic and,unfortunately, correct over time. I considermyself a careful guy, but have seenmy share of close calls, had some neardeathexperiences and, sadly, lost friends.Is mountain safety then, anoxymoron?On the contrary, it is exactly becausethese are dangerous activities, with aresidual risk that can never be completelyeliminated, that safety needs to be anever-present theme and overriding concernin everything we do in the mountains.The Alpine Club of Canada needsto further cultivate its “safety culture”.What is a safety culture?The term originated in research andanalysis after the Chernobyl nucleardisaster and has been used in dangerousindustries since. It has also found its wayinto military and rescue organizations.In some circles, it has become an almostoverused buzzword, and research intoits effectiveness is lacking. Some componentsof the currently used industrialsystems, however, are worth consideringand useful.At its core, a safety culture requiresa commitment to safety as a prioritythroughout all levels of an organization.The components of a functioningsafety culture are that it be an informed,reporting, just, learning and flexibleculture. A reporting culture is an14 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011environment where safety issues arefreely reported without hesitation. A justculture provides objective rewards for safebehaviour where everybody understandsthe rules and procedures for safety. It doesnot primarily rely on punishment, eventhough rules for corrective actions in caseof flagrant safety violations are usuallyrequired. A learning culture is one thathas implemented a system where conclusionsfrom incident reviews and novelsafety concepts are effectively translatedto improve training. A flexible culture caneasily adapt its procedures and training tothese new concepts.How can the ACC continue todevelop its safety culture?The Club makes mountain safety afocus for all activities, procedures andtraining. We are committed to safetyas a high priority at all levels, from theExecutive and the Board of Directors tothe sections, as well as individual guides,camp managers, staff and volunteertrip leaders. The Club needs to refineprocedures that allow it to review incidentsand accidents in an objective andnon-judgmental manner, with a focus onlearning from these incidents. Finally, weneed to find ways to more effectively andquickly translate conclusions and recommendationsfrom accident reviews intoimproved training and procedures. Wemust also find effective means to communicateand disseminate those conclusionsand recommendations throughoutthe Club.Where is the Club on the path toan even better safety culture?The commitment to safety exists, andthe newly stated values of the AlpineClub of Canada reflect this commitment;this was clearly demonstrated at the May2011 Annual General Meeting throughdiscussions within the Board of Directorsand the comments shared by PresidentPeter Muir.The ACC now needs to articulatewithin its goals the long held belief in asafety culture, establishing objectives thatwill see the Club continue as a leaderin safety training, and also the leadingauthority for mountain safety in Canada.This is not a competition though, andthe Alpine Club of Canada needs tocollaborate with all other organizationsthat have an interest in mountain safety,including the ACMG, CAC, FQME,Parks Canada and others.Specifically, the ACC’s SafetyCommittee recently updated theStandard Operating Procedures forincident reporting, requirements forreporting of incidents and the actual incidentreport form. The incident reportingguidelines were originally influenced bythe requirements of our liability insurance.The updated version also recognizesthe need for incident reviews to feed alearning culture. The Club still needs toestablish the mechanisms to feed theresults of objective incident reviews andother research into improved training andpolicies.The focus will be to establish channelsfor communication and disseminationof safety information. Regular safetycolumns in the Gazette are a first step.Updating of the ACC website and arejuvenated accident database will be followingas the web presence of the ACC ismodernized. Section representatives whowill maintain close communication withthe National Safety Committee will alsobe required.In the end, mountain safety and asafety culture represent more a path thana destination.Ernst Bergmann is Alpine Club ofCanada Edmonton Section Chair andNational Safety Committee Chair. In spiteof being required to read all the incidentreports, he continues to go to the mountainsand take risks.

CAUTIONthese images may maThe Alpine Club of Canada canDearPhoto: John DerickPhoto: Heiki PauliPhoto: Suzan ChamneyPhoto: Jordan SmithBACKCOUThe Largest Network ofwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca | 403.678.

ke you want to leave your job and go hiking with us.not be held responsible for your actions. Viewer discretion is advised.Photo: Dave McCormickPhoto: Nick PavelichPhoto: Darren RudyPhoto: Tanya KoobNTRY HUTS in North America3200 x 1 | info@alpineclubofcanada.ca

Rock on in Mexico!by Marie-Marthe Gagnon and Pierre JordacheDriving through Mexico can be atonce an exciting and frustratingadventure. The scenery is trulybreathtaking, given the splendid arrayof beaches, mountains, rivers, volcanoes,fauna and flora that line the horizon. Thepeople of Mexico are a pleasant lot aswell—appealing, easy-going and friendly.That said, if climber’s ambition ever drivesyou towards little-known mountains, beprepared to lose your calm—and a fewcar parts along the way.If you have explored Mexico by car,you are already familiar with the gapingholes, debris, animals and such that litterthe roadways, all aggravated by a flagrantlack of signage. The pay highways are fine,but also quite expensive. Other factorscan taint the Mexican experience, suchas limited food choices, questionablehygiene, hot and cold weather extremes,bug explosions and the constant presenceof all manner of thorns.When my partner, Pierre, and Iarrived in Mexico in the fall of 2010, wewere only planning to climb at PotreroChico and Jilotepec, two well-knownsites appreciated by international climbers.We drove our camper, a 1999 VWEurovan, proudly making its fifth trip toMexico from Montreal. We crossed theUSA-Laredo border—the closest entrypoint leading to Potrero Chico—problemfree. After a few climbing days at PotreroChico, we headed south of Mexico Cityto a site near Taxco. Our destination wasthe Petzl RocTrip Festival, an event thatattracted most top Mexican climbers.Unfortunately for us, the climbing conditionswere far from excellent that week.Long lineups and a cold spell preventedus from truly enjoying the cliffs. But, asusually happens, there was an upside toWall # of Stars State / GPS Approach Altitude Routes Grades HeightPotrero Chico k k k Nuevo Leon 5 to 30 minutes fromthe campground1,800 metres more than 500limestone and dolomite5.7 to 5.13 up to 600metresEl Hoyanco “Chonta”k k kGuerrero 40 minutes fromprimitive camping1,500 metres more than 100 caliza,tufa and stalactites5.12 and 5.13 20 to 200metresEl Cuajo k k k Jalisco20º 57’ 05”103º 23’ 42”35 to 50 minutes 1,300 metres 60 volcanic 5.9 to 5.13 12 to 40metresJilotepec - Peñas deDexcani Alto k kEl Oasis, Cañon deTumbisca, Barrancode la Noria k kLa Bufa k kEl Diente k kCañada deGigante kCañon de Aculco- Cañada deConcepción kLa Alberca kFDMMichoacán19º 34’ 50”101º 05’ 55”Guanajuato20º 59’ 44”101º 14’ 59”Jalisco20º 47’ 23”103º 23’ 50”short from primitivecamping2,500 metres 120 basalt conglomerate 5.8 to 5.14 mainly short10 to 20 minutes 1,930 metres 50 volcanic 5.9 to 5.13 7 to 50 metresfrom primitivecamping10 to 30 minutes 2,250 metres 80 some granite 5.9 to 5.13 20 to 100metresclose to primitivecamping1,600 metres 60 rough granite 5.8 to 5.13 shortGuanajuato 10 to 20 minutes 1,900 metres 50 volcanic/basalt 5.9 to 5.13 10 to 60metresFDMshort 2,325 metres basalt—lots of trad, a 5.9 and 20 to 3020º 09’ 03”few sporthighermetres99º 54’ 47”Guanajuato20º 23’ 06”101º 12’ 05”The authors’ 1999 VW camper van made the journey from Montreal to this lovely spot at La PosadaCampground near Hidalgo. El Potrero Chico in the background. photo by Marie-Marthe Gagnon.short 1,932 metres more than 25 volcanic,basaltall of this since we had more time to chatwith Mexican climbers. We asked themwhere they lived and where they lovedto climb in Mexico. Some pointed out afew recommended cliffs on our Mexicanmap. Armed with these reference dots,we embarked on a two-month journey todiscover Mexican roads and mountains.The initial excitement was rapidlyreplaced by weeks of utter frustration. Allsaid and done, we probably spent moretime driving than climbing. The paucityof information, on the Internet or otherwise,regarding Mexican climbing sites is5.9 to 5.12 10 to 30metres18 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011

quite deplorable. You also need to knowthat Mexican cliffs are poorly equippedwith many homemade bolts, as well aspoorly drilled standard bolts. Moreover,there is also the frequent risk of fallsbecause the second and third bolts havebeen placed too high.Having survived all this, we wantto share our experience in the hopes ofmaking others’ trips to Mexico moreenjoyable. As for us, our next Mexicanadventure will certainly be more relaxed,as we’ll stick to the cliffs we most enjoyedand to which we have attributed morethan one star.Getting therePotrero Chico: Drive 18 kilometresnorth of Monterrey onroad 53 toward Monclova, and3 kilometres west of Hidalgo.www.mountainproject.com/books/105910764Chonta: For Las Grutas deCacahuamilpa, turn west on a littlegravel road from Highway 55, 3.5 kilometressouth of the “Y”. The routes arein the shade. http://simuchi.com.mxcontinued on page 20Pierre Jordache rappells down La Gran Ilusion, 5.10 on El Diente. photo by Marie-Marthe Gagnon.ANDREW BURRHOODWIRETHE LIGHTWEIGHT, HOT-FORGED HOODWIRE IS WHAT YOUNEED FOR SMOOTH AND HASSLE-FREE USE ON:• STOPPERS AT MOUNT ARAPILES• BOLTS IN CEÜSE• SLINGS ON CERRO TORRE• FIXED MANK IN THE DOLOMITESTHANKS TO ITS UNIQUE WIRE HOOD OVER THE GATE NOTCHTHAT ELIMINATES NOSE HOOKING.search HOODWIRE at:BlackDiamondEquipment.comClub alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 19

The Emperor Face on MountRobson—or Yuh-hai-has-kun, theMountain of the Spiral Road—is aboutas grand a venue as the Rockies has tooffer for big mixed gully systems in thealpine. Its handful of routes average about20 pitches in length; plus, the positionsare hard to beat. In the spring of 2010, ithadn’t required too many words betweenJason Kruk and me to know we wereboth ready to clear our schedules whenthe conditions appeared favourable foran attempt. Despite having never beforetied in together, Jason’s energy wasinfectious, and I sensed he felt the samefrom me. He was hot-off successful tripsto Patagonia and Yosemite, so I knewhe’d be a perfect partner for Robson.Read the rest of Jon Walsh’sstory The Spiral Roadstarting on page 34 of the2011 Canadian Alpine Journal.Get the 2011Journal forAdd a subscription forthe 2012 volume to yourmembership for$22 including shipping(in Canada), lower stillif you also have theHuts Option on yourmembership!The Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ) provides a record of the Canadianmountain ethos and mindset through articles and images that reflect theways Canadians approach mountain culture, history, sport and science.The CAJ represents Canadian climbing from coast-to-coast, as well asCanadian climbers’ activities internationally, celebrating and reflectingthe broadest current standards of style and difficulty.Available in Julywww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/store/continued from page 21El Cuajo: North of Guadalajera, take Carretera Cototlan. At kilometre 23, turn right toward San Lorenzo. Within 2 kilometres metalsteps on your right side indicate the start of the trail. There is limited parking nearby along the road. Routes exposed to the sununtil 2 p.m. www.puntomuerto.com.mx/27701/52655.htmlJilotepec: Located 2 kilometres south of Jilotepec, most of the routes are in the shade. javiercanche@hotmail.comEl Oasis: Located 23 kilometres south of Morelia (40-minute drive), the last 7 kilometres on a narrow gravel road. The shaded routesare located in a scenic canyon with a little river. dubstyle@inorbit.com or lacrima@inorbit.comLa Bufa: South east of Guanajuato city. On Panoramica Street follow a gravel road that starts at the electrical site near ISSTEHospital for1. 6 kilometres. Look for a .5-kilometre trail. www.8a.nu/crags/Crag.aspx?CragId=28382El Diente: North of Guadalajara, take exit Saltilo from the Periferico, direction Las Canãdas, San Isidro. Turn to Rio Blanco and askfor further directions. www.puntomuerto.com.mx/27701/55448.htmlCañada de Gigante: Drive 12 kilometres east of Leon (20 minutes),including 10 kilometres of gravel. Turn left and park on a private road.The routes are located in a canyon on either side of a small river.Aculco: On the west side of Highway 55, between San Juan del Rio andAtlacomulco. Mostly shaded routes.La Alberca: West of Valle de Santiago, almost in the city.More internet sites about climbing in Mexico:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/international/north_america/mexico/105910759http://www.8a.nu/crags/List.aspx?AscentType=0&CountryCode=MEXwww.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Mexicohttp://www.puntomuerto.com.mx/27701/55448.htmlhttp://www.elpotrerochico.com/index.htmlwww.escalodromo.comwww.xpmexico.comwww.thecrag.com/area/11738011http://simuchi.com.mx/http://magicedspotrerochico.com/20 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011Rodrigo from Bucio (village) in the state of Mexico cooks rabbits forhis restaurant following his family’s special 50-year-old BBQ recipe. photo by Marie-Marthe Gagnon.

Books endsby Lynn MartelRuthie’s Trails—A Lifetime of Adventure, by Ruth OltmannIn these compelling tales of adventure by a forever youngwoman, Ruth Oltmann recounts how shewas born in Ottawa, Ontario, but foundher niche in the Canadian Rockies. Hervaried careers included running hostelsin the mountains, cooking in the backcountry,working in Kananaskis Countryinformation centres and writing books—all of which led to a myriad of adventureson the trails and in the Canadianmountains. An ACC Mountain CultureCommittee member, Ruthie publishedher first book in 1978 and has had countlessarticles published in various magazinesand journals, many of which appear in this book.Published by Mount Fable Press,www3.telus.net/public/ruthieo/index.htmlEcology & Wonder in the Canadian Rocky Mountain NationalParks World Heritage Site, by R.W. SandfordForty years in the writing,Sandford, who has authoredmore than 20 books, includingseveral of the ACC’s SummitSeries booklets, refers to thistome quite sincerely as his “life’swork”. At 352 pages, this valuablevolume displays the CanadianRockies parks in their entirecontext as a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site, exposing theirnatural and human history inone captivating, thought-provoking,worthwhile package.Published by Athabasca University Press,www.aupress.ca/index.php/books/120169All That Glitters: A Climber’s Journey through Addiction andDepression, by Margo TalbotWorld-renowned ice climber and ACC member MargoTalbot shares her compelling story ofhealing and self-discovery amid thefrozen landscapes of the planet. Rescuedfrom the depths of drug addiction andcrime by the lure of climbing frozenwaterfalls, Margo rises from the brink ofsuicidal depression in a jail cell to beingenvied by a client in Antarctica for havinga “dream life”.All That Glitters is a story of healingand redemption; a story about losingoneself, and then finding one’s way backhome.Published May 2010 by Sono Nis Press,www.allthatglittersbook.com/bookThe Will of the Land, by Peter DettlingThe crisp, evocative images of an elk cow licking her calf, adreamy-eyed post-coital grizzly pair and the unforgettable sceneof a wolf and hulking grizzly’s nose-to-nose standoff make thishardcover, coffee table-sized book’s 176 high-quality pages a treatto peruse. The real story, however,is not as pretty, as Dettling writeshow the wild animals whosevery survival is mandated as thepurpose of Banff, Yoho, Kootenayand Jasper national parks arekilled by many dozens annuallyon the highways and railroadtracks running through thosevery parks.Published by Rocky MountainBooks, www.rmbooks.comLife of the Trail 6—Historic Hikes to Athabasca Pass, FortressLake & Tonquin Valley, by Emerson SanfordCanmore author and ACC member Emerson Sanford hasalways been fascinated by stories aboutDavid Thompson and the brigades ofhorseback riding fur traders crossing thehistorical Athabasca Pass. As an avid andenthusiastic backpacker and moderndayRockies explorer, Sanford has alsolong been attracted to visit such remotecorners of Jasper and the other mountainparks. In the sixth instalment of hispopular eight-volume Life of the Trailseries, Sanford visits not just AthabascaPass, but also several equally remote,captivating and historically rich andfascinating destinations as Fortress Lakein Hamber Provincial Park and Jasper’s Tonquin Valley.Published by Rocky Mountain Books, www.rmbooks.comCheck out Gazette editor Lynn Martel’s new book, Tales& Trails: Adventures for Everyone in the Canadian Rockieson page 7 of this Gazette, and atwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/store/Club alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 21

Yoho and Glacier national parks celebrate 125 yearsby Megan LongIn 2011, Canadians celebrate the 125thanniversary of Yoho and Glaciernational parks and the centennialanniversary of Parks Canada, the world’sfirst national parks service.The birth of Canada’s second andthird national parks is inextricably linkedto the completion of the CanadianPacific Railway (CPR) in 1885. Steelrails were laid across three mountainpasses—Kicking Horse, Rogers andEagle—providing access through seeminglyimpassable terrain and uniting thecountry from coast to coast.The CPR developed Canada’s firstmountain luxury hotels at the bottomof Kicking Horse Pass and near thesummit of Rogers Pass. In 1886, twoDominion Park Reserves, Yoho andGlacier, were created to protect the areasurrounding the hotels for tourists andadventurers. Along with Banff, these twoparks became the foundation for oneof Canada’s most enduring legacies: theworld’s first national park service.Nearly a century later, in 1962, PrimeMinister John Diefenbaker further unitedCanadians when he tamped down the“last patch” of asphalt at the openingceremony of the TransCanada Highwayat the Rogers Pass Summit Monument inGlacier National Park.Inspiring placesFor 125 years, Yoho and Glaciernational parks have inspired art, scienceand adventure. In the early 1900s,understanding of the natural world wasexpanded by geologist Charles Walcott,who discovered the world’s most significantfossil find, the Burgess Shale, andsurveyor A. O. Wheeler, who mappedvast stretches of the rocky and columbiamountains, as well as co-founding theAlpine Club of Canada. Today, ParksCanada is an international leader inconservation.Charles’ wife, Mary Vaux Walcott wasan accomplished botanist, glaciologist,mountaineer, painter and photographer.Throughout her life, she painted morethan 1,000 plant specimens, which wereeventually published in five volumesentitled North American Wildflowers—the “must have” guide for early NorthAmerican botany enthusiasts.While staying at Glacier House in1887, the Vaux family from Philadelphiabegan the first glaciology and botanystudies in Glacier National Park whilephotographing the Illecillewaet Glacier.Their photographs and notes remaininvaluable to today’s study of glaciologyand climate change.The splendour of areas such as LakeO’Hara and the Illecillewaet Glacier hasbeen the muse of many artists, includingLawren Harris and J.E.H. MacDonald ofthe Group of Seven. From 1885 until the1960s, the CPR commissioned artists tocreate advertisements and brochures thatlured travellers to their mountain hotelsand oceanic ships.Inspiring adventureAdventurers have always beendrawn to the parks’ challenging wildernesslandscape. Glacier and Yohonational parks, once described as “fiftySwitzerlands in one”, are known as thebirthplace of North American mountaineering.In 1888, Reverends WilliamSpotswood Green and Henry Swanzyspent six weeks exploring the SelkirkMountains. Prior to their arrival, therewas no record of tourists ever enteringACC NewsNetStay up-to-date on the latestclimbing, access and environmentnews via the ACC’s weeklye‐Bulletin.Subscribe to the ACC NewsNet bysending an e-mail to:NewsNet@alpineclubofcanada.cafacebook.com/alpineclubofcanadatwitter.com/alpineclubcan22 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011

the rugged landscape beyond the toe ofthe Illecillewaet Glacier. In fact, priorto then, no one was known to have everclimbed a mountain in western Canadasolely for sport.Beginning in 1899, the CPR hiredSwiss mountain guides to teach hotelguests how to climb safely. In 1904,guided by Christian and Hans Kaufmann,Gertrude Benham left Lake Louise, travelledover Abbot Pass to Lake O’Hara,then descended along Cataract Brook,rounded Odaray Mountain, climbedMount Stephen and descended into thetown of Field. They covered 26 kilometresand 2,400 vertical metres—a dauntingroute even by modern standards.Today, mountaineers such asRevelstoke’s Greg Hill continue to challengethemselves in the mountains ofYoho and Glacier national parks. In 2010,Hill set a world record by climbing andskiing 2 million vertical self-propelledfeet in just under a calendar year.*For more than a century, these scientists,artists and adventurers have helpedestablish a time-honoured legacy thatcontinues to shape the culture and communitiesnestled near the dramatic peaks,glaciers and rivers of Yoho and Glaciernational parks.Canada’s national parks are protected*Read about Greg Hill’s year inhis article 2 Million Feat in the 2011Canadian Alpine Journal, now availableon the ACC’s online store. Visitwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/store/ topurchase your copy.2011MOUNTAINGUIDES BALLThe Alpine Club of Canada andThe Association of Canadian Mountain Guides22nd annualMountain Guides BallFundraiserRUDI GERTSCHSwiss Canadian Mountain Guideand our first representative to the InternationalFederation of Mountain Guides AssociationACMGASSOCIATION OF CANADIAN MOUNTAIN GUIDESSilent AuctionFour Course DinnerLive Music and DanceFor more information, visit:www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/mgb/for all time. Visitors today can enjoythese parks much as the early adventurersexperienced them. This year, visitors fromaround the world are invited to celebrateYoho and Glacier national parks as welook forward to the next 125 years.Megan Long is the Visitor Experience- Product Development Officer | Agente,Expérience du visiteur et élaboration deproduit for Mount Revelstoke and Glaciernational parks | Park national du CanadaMont-Revelstoke et Glacier.Winter TNF Leadership CourseContinuing on the ACC’s tradition of mountain leadership, the TNF-ACCWinter Leadership course strives to enhance ‘soft’ leadershipskills in our tireless volunteer activity organizers. This trainingcourse emphasizes the "human factor" in leaders’ decision-makingand is applicable to Section activities across Canada. Watch for it onour 2012 winter Adventures calendar.Club alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 23

Recherche d’itinérairepar Peter MuirQuand on cherche son itinéraireen montagne, c`est souventun bon exercice de s’arrêter etregarder en arrière où on était, de regarderoù nous sommes maintenant, puis deregarder en avant.L’Assemblée Générale Annuelle duClub Alpin du Canada (CAC) qui a eulieu à Canmore en mai, ainsi que la publicationrécente du rapport annuel du Club,mettent tous les deux en évidence quenotre club est en très bonne santé financièrementainsi qu’en général. Le rapportannuel est disponible à (lien internet)www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/support/annualreports.htmlCependant la stabilité financièren’est pas la marque principale d’un clubdynamique ayant du succès. Un bonclub dont les membres sont heureux d`yappartenir doit être un club partagé pardes personnes ayant la même inclinaisonvers des aventures à propulsion personnelleautopropulsées en pleine nature,que cela soit par participation active,réflexion silencieuse sur des aventurespassées ou même sur les aventuresd’autres. Le dénominateur commun estque l’enthousiasme pour les poursuitesalpines à propulsion personnelle pour leseul but du plaisir est une ‘vocation’ en etde soi-même.En lisant le Journal Alpin du Canadaou la Gazette, ou en scannant les sitesinternet des différentes sections duCAC et les calendriers hebdomadairesd’événements, on peut y voir les membresdu Club là-bas dehors, en pleine nature HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUBHeritage Club milestonesEvery year, the Alpine Club of Canada celebrates those memberswho have been with the Club for 25, 35 and 50 years. The Clubrecognizes these members with a special lapel pin, with the 25- and35-year members receiving an attractive certificate and the 50-year membersreceiving a handsome wall plaque.In 2011, 20 members reached the 25-year milestone, 14 members reachedthe 35-year milestone and four members reached their 50-year milestone.Congratulations to everyone, and especially to all of those named below—you are in very esteemed company!50 yearsRoy Everest, Jasper, AlbertaDavid Krashes, Princeton, MaineDonald C. Morton, Victoria, British ColumbiaKarl Winter, Port Coquitlam, British Columbia HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB John Lauchlan Memorial AwardAs recipients of the 2011 John Lauchlan Memorial Award, Canadian alpinistsJason Kruk and Chris Geisler made an outstanding attempt to establish a new routeon and near the infamous Maestri Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagoniawithout using any of its dozens of existing bolts, or placing any new ones. The twoclimbed new terrain to a point high on the headwall, but were forced to descend fromjust 50 metres below the top of the rock headwall. Well done!Read their story in the 2011 Canadian Alpine Journal now available at:www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/store/For information on how you can apply for the John Lauchlan Memorial Award,visit: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/grants/HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUB HERITAGE CLUBs’y amusant. Toute publication ou événementsoutenu par le Comité Culturel deMontagne démontre que la poursuitecréative, que ce soit par l’écriture, la peintureou le théâtre, est un aspect unique etcomplet de l’escalade en montagne. C’estpour cela que nos membres ont parlé avectant de passion à propos de notre bibliothèqueCAC.La visibilité de notre club est encroissance. Les profiles d’athlètes,d’événements et de cabanes de montagnesdeviennent le point central régulier debeaucoup de publications. Bien sûr, unevisibilité accrue amène des défis accrus.Ceux-ci incluent de s’assurer, autant quepossible, que les membres aient accèsaux actifs et programmes créés par etpour eux, aussi bien que d’avoir à faire engénéral à une variété de personnes hautesen couleurs, ayant des perspectives, butset inclinaisons différentes. Tous ces défissont bien gérés par des membres exécutifsdu national et des sections dédiés auCAC.Pas souvent remercié, ou en tout cascertainement pas assez souvent, est lamultitude de bénévoles qui rende toutcela possible.Globalement l’image est très positive.Si positive que j’ai le grand plaisird’annoncer qu’à l’Assemblée Générale deprintemps 2011, le Club a donné la bienvenueà une nouvelle section du nord duCanada, la Section du Yukon. Je suis sûrque vous serez d’accord avec moi que ceciest un développement passionnant pourle CAC et pour le potentiel d’alpinismed’une région incroyable du Canada.Pour ce qui est de la part del’Assemblée des Directeurs, nous continueronsde faire tout ce que nous pourronspour encourager le plaisir en montagneautopropulsé afin qu’il se fasse de manièresûre et respectueuse de l’environnementpour le bénéfice de tous nos membres etpour l’alpinisme même.—Peter Muir, ACC PresidentTranslated by ACC Member NathalieRoulin.facebook.com/alpineclubofcanadatwitter.com/alpineclubcan24 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2011

Route findingby Peter MuirWhen route finding in themountains, it is often goodpractice to stop and look backto where you’ve been, to look at whereyou are, and then to look ahead.The Alpine Club of Canada’sAnnual General Meeting, which tookplace in Canmore in May, plus therecent publication of the Club’s annualreport, both highlight our club to bevery healthy—financially and otherwise.The annual report is available atwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/support/annualreports.htmlFinancial stability, however, is not themain mark of a successful, vibrant club.A good club whose members are happyto belong should be one shared by peoplewith an inclination toward self-propelledwilderness adventure, whether that meansactive participation, quiet reflection onpast adventures or even the adventuresof others. The common denominator isthat shared enthusiasm for self-propelledalpine pursuits for the purpose of enjoymentis a high calling in and of itself.Reading through the Canadian AlpineJournal or the Gazette, or scanning thevarious ACC section websites and weeklyevents calendars, one sees the Club’smembers out there enjoying themselves.Any publication or event supported bythe Mountain Culture Committee demonstratesthat creative pursuit, whetherin writing, painting or drama, remains afull and unique aspect of climbing. That iswhy our members have spoken so passionatelyabout our ACC library.The profile of our club is growing.Profiles of athletes, events and backcountryhuts are becoming regular focusesin many publications.Of course, increased profile bringsincreased challenges. Those includeensuring, as much as possible, that membershave access to the assets and programscreated by and for them, as well asthe general variety of dealing with people,their colourful personalities and differentperspectives, aims and inclinations. Allthese challenges are well-handled by conscientiousnational and section executivemembers dedicated to the ACC.Not often thanked, or at least certainlynot often enough, are the many,many volunteers who make it all happen.Overall, the picture is very positive.So positive, that I’m very pleased toannounce that at the 2011 spring AGM,the Club welcomed a new section fromCanada’s north—the Yukon Section. I’msure you’ll agree that this is an excitingdevelopment for the ACC, and for themountaineering potential of an incredibleregion of Canada.For the Board of Directors’ part,we will continue to do what we canto encourage self-propelled mountainenjoyment in a safe and environmentallyresponsible manner for the benefit of allour members, and for mountaineering inits own right.—Peter Muir, ACC PresidentRecycle this GazetteLeave it in yourpsychiatrist’s officeNational Volunteer AwardsThe Alpine Club of Canada extends its congratulations tothe following devoted volunteers who were recognizedfor their outstanding contributions to the national and/or section levels of the Club in 2010. A description of the recipients’accomplishments can be found on the ACC’s website atwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/awards/recent.htmlPrix nationaux pour bénévolesFélicitations aux bénévoles dévoués, mentionnés ci-dessous,qui furent reconnus pour leurs contributions exceptionnellesau Club Alpin du Canada en 2010, tant au niveaunational qu’au niveau des sections. Une description des réalisationsdes récipindaires est disponible sur le site web du CAC auwww.alpineclubofcanada.ca/awards/recent.htmlA.O. Wheeler Legacy AwardPresented in recognition of outstanding and varied contributionsto the Alpine Club of Canada over a period of many years:David Dornian, Competition Climbing Canada/ Compétitiond’escalade CanadaDon Forest Service AwardThis award recognizes significant service to the ACC. The DonForest Award for 2010 was presented to:Cedric Zala, Vancouver Island SectionMurray Levine, Montreal SectionKaren McGilvray, Toronto SectionDave Dornian receives his award from ACC President Peter Muir.photo by Cam Roe.Many thanks to the members of the Awards Committee: Un grand merci aux membres du Comité des prix :André Mahé (Chair/président, section Saint-Boniface), Paul Geddes (Vancouver Section), Rod Plasman (Rocky MountainSection), Dave McCormick (Saskatchewan Section), Bill Scott (Ottawa Section) and Tom Haslam-Jones (Montreal Section).Club alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 25

Wolverine study yields valuable fur and factsstory and photos by Lynn Martela wolverine has definitely beenhere!” exclaimed Barb Bertsch as“Yup,we skied into a clearing followingher GPS signal a few hundred metresfrom the Pipestone River bank, two anda half hours from the trailhead near LakeLouise.“I hope he left more than bones.”Opening a metal box fastened toa tree a metre above the snow surface,Bertsch, a tracker, field technician andveteran of numerous wildlife studies, andwildlife ecologist Tony Clevenger, leadresearcher for a five-year study examiningthe impacts of the TransCanada Highwaywildlife crossings, checked on the remoteinfrared-operated camera encased within.The bones to which Bertschreferred—including telltale elongatedfront teeth—were all that remained ofa beaver carcass that had been securelynailed about three metres above the snowto a tree several metres from the camera.Below the bones, a spiral of barbed wireeight revolutions high wrapped the tree.Approaching the tree brandishing a pairof needle-nose pliers, Clevenger quicklyspied his treasure.“Oh ya, we’ve got some fur,” heannounced.Moving to within a few centimetresof his gloved finger tip, I finally spottedthe fine strands of animal fur snagged inthe barb.Recording strand numbers in a logbook,Bertsch marked the location ofeach sample in relation to the camerato help identify which animal left eachsample in case of multiple individuals of acertain species.“You don’t always get a sample froma hair/fur strand,” Clevenger explained.“You have to have the follicle. That’s whyit’s important to rip the fur out, ratherthan taking shed hair. It’s nice to have abig tuft of fur, but even one hair with agood follicle is useful.”“Some sites you see this big wad likea dog shed and it’s like yahoo, you knowyou’ve got some good ones,” BertschWolverine researcher Tony Clevenger, right uses needle-nose pliers to remove strands of fur from a barba half-metre below the skeletal remains of a beaver carcass that was hung to lure wolverines, while fieldtechnician Barb Bertsch records information.added, explaining a large tuft usuallymeans all the strands are from a singleanimal since each barb can only hold somuch fur.Moving methodically around the tree,Clevenger placed the samples into numberedenvelopes. They will be sent to a USForest Service conservation genetics labin Missoula, Montana to be analysed by atop North American mustellid and landscapegenetics expert. Tests will identifythe species and also individuals, includinggender and offspring, the results of whichare expected in about six months.Clevenger and Bertsch then dismantledthe site, packing up the wire,camera and casing in their packs. Thiswas just one of 48 such sites established inBanff, Yoho and Kootenay national parksduring the 2010/11 winter season, includingfive non-park sites in BC’s ColumbiaValley. It took three full-time and threepart-time staff, including Clevenger andBertsch, a full month to set up the sitesby mid-January. Reaching each site meantskiing for several hours carrying a 15-kilogramsolidly frozen beaver carcass plusother gear in a backpack. Several remotesites required overnight stays in wardencabins, with the beavers, secured insidebarrels, delivered by helicopter. Hangingthe carcases on south-facing trees with asmelly lure was physically taxing, messywork best carried out—but not always—by two-person teams. Through the courseof the winter, each site hosted one beaverfor three 30-day sampling sessions.Despite skiing more than 2,000 kilometresin temperatures as low as minus25 C and wielding barbed wire, hammersand spikes, the researchers ran the projectinjury-free.Dismantling the sites by the endof April, Clevenger and his team werethrilled with the success of WolverineWatch, part of a multi-year partnershipbetween Parks Canada, Montana StateUniversity’s Western TransportationInstitute, the Miistakis Instituteand Woodcock and WilburforceConservation Foundations, with supportfrom the Alpine Club of Canada.Overall, 88 per cent of the sites sawwolverine visits, with only three of thepark sites not visited.Having wolverine activity throughout

the six-square-kilometre study area contrastsinformation garnered from a similarstudy conducted in Kananaskis Countryover the winter, which showed muchlower visitation rates, suggesting thenational park population may be a sourcefor the non-park areas that are subject totrapping and more impacted by humanactivities.“The main study is to learn if theTrans Canada and other highways arebarriers to their movement and gene flowthat fragment the population in two,”Clevenger explained. “Such fragmentationwould ultimately reduce populationsize and chances for long-term survival inthe area.”Rarely seen, the dog-sized wolverinetravels up to 40 kilometres a day; malesroam up to 1,000 square kilometres whileavoiding all types of human disturbance,including roads, forest-cutting,snowmobilers and heli-skiers. Setting thenon-invasive (no collars or human contact),traps in winter meant hibernatingbears were unlikely to reach the beavers.The study began with six pilot sites lastyear, and will resume in 2012/13 with morehair traps.Along with the excitement of findingwolverine fur on the first trap theychecked, the researchers also experiencedsome challenges. One site witnessed somuch pine marten activity the cameracard was full before any wolverinesshowed up, while something chewedthrough the cable to the infrared triggerdisabling the HD video. Another cameracaptured a determined coyote climbingthe tree and grabbing the carcass in itsteeth, trying to get it down.“It was amazing, it was up prettyhigh,” Bertsch said.“Wolves just stand around hoping itwill drop,” Clevenger added.Once hit, the sites were usually visitedagain. Lab results will determine if it wasthe same wolverine on stake out waitingfor a fresh beaver carcass.The project hit a snag in Februarywhen beaver carcasses became scarce.Fortunately, trappers from BC andAlberta responded to Clevenger’s Internetposting: “Need beavers, will pay $30.”“All of a sudden beavers came out ofthe woodwork,” Clevenger said. “Withoutbeavers the whole project is jeopardized.”On the up side, Clevenger was gratefulto have more volunteers than he couldassign.“We know so little about wolverinesin the three [Yoho, Banff and Kootenay]national parks, other than tracks that arecommonly seen in localized areas withhigh visitation, such as Lake O’Hara,”Tiny strands of fur are caught in a barb on wirewrapped around a tree where a beaver carcasswas hung to lure wolverines to climb up for theirdinner. The technique provides researchers witha non-invasive method of recording wolverineactivity and population numbers in a study area.Clevenger said. “Before the survey began,I guessed we would have had 30 to 40 percent visitation rate at the hair traps.“We’re thrilled; we’ve done muchbetter than that.”To learn more, please visitwww.WolverineWatch.orgReprinted with permission from theRocky Mountain Outlook.Executive committee slate announcedThe Alpine Club of Canada’s Executive Committee for the 2100 to 2013 termassumed office at the Club’s Annual General Meeting on May 14.The Executive members are as follows: President - Peter Muir (Winnipeg);Secretary - Gordon Currie (Calgary); Treasurer - Neil Bosch (Edmonton); VPAccess and Environment - Selena Swets (Victoria); VP Activities - Zac Robinson(Edmonton); VP Facilities - Carl Hannigan (Calgary); VP Mountain Culture -Isabelle Daigneault (Montreal); VP Services - David Foster (Ottawa).The Club extends a warm welcome to the new Executive Committee members,and huge thanks to the many who have agreed to continue serving over the nextcouple of years! Many thanks are also extended to outgoing VPs Roger Laurilla andEvan Loveless.Photo: Alex Girard backcountry skiing, Rogers Pass, B.C. © Ryan Crearywww.banffmountainfestival.caNINE DAYS YOU WON’T WANT TO MISS1.403.762.6301 • 1.800.413.8368The World’s Best Mountain Films and BooksPresenting PartnersTHE BANFF CENTRE PRESENTSBANFFMOUNTAINANDFILM BOOKFESTIVALOCTOBER 29 –NOVEMBER 6, 2011backcountry skiing, Rogers Pass, B.C. © Ryan CrearyClub alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 29

Littlest custodians visit Elizabeth Parker Hutby Val ClarkAfter locking up the truck at thebase of the Lake O’Hara accessroad, I hoist my pack and head tothe bus shelter. On my ride up I’m confidenttwo weeks’ rain will cease.Off the bus, I set out for the AlpineClub of Canada’s Elizabeth ParkerHut, hoping to score a spot in the smallWiwaxy Cabin.As a descending gentleman passes, Ijoke, “I’m tired already.”“You’ll get used to it,” he smiles.“Do you know if there’s space in thelittle cabin?” I ask.“It’s possible.” After a pause, he continues,“But, be forewarned! There are acouple of squeaky little kids in there!”Optimistic, I head on. My sensesawake to the surroundings: lush flora,mushrooms of unfamiliar shapes andcolours, ferns, soft moss, lichens—a midsummer’sdream. Water newly freed fromice and snow plays secretively around andover fallen trees and mossy rocks. Spraysof bright vertiginous growth coveringmuch of the small valley extend an invitationto simply be present.Excited, my spirit expands into theAnna Erickson, 5, and Francis Benoit, 4, eagerlyhelp with chores at Elizabeth Parker Hut.photo by Scott Benoit.brilliant greens of this intensely privateplace as I breathe in the light, the trees,the far sky surrounded by snowy peaks. Iam home.Near the bridge, Elizabeth Parker Hutstands inviting and deserted. I cross thewooden bridge onto the stone path andopen the door of the little cabin to find asleeping space by the window. I unpack.Minutes later I leave the cabin, turningright at the bridge, striking out toLake McArthur. Trekking up a boulderfield that grows increasingly rough highabove Lake O’Hara, I eventually emergeat a shallow lake where a goldeneye’swebbed feet splash loudly like a kid witha flutter board.Shadows growing long, I decide LakeMcArthur will wait until tomorrow andinstead follow a rising trail into forestedrockfall. Massive formations echo themossy hulls of abandoned ships whichevokes in me the unimaginable past ofthis terrain as a shallow sea floor.Upon my return to the hut, hungrypeople fill the kitchen so I collect kindlingand start an evening fire in thesleeping cabin. Later I prepare beef stroganoffbut find cleaning up a challengeamidst a group of eight. Leaning backagainst the counter to wait, I hear a faintsound from outside.Hesitating, I slowly open the door tofind a tiny brown-haired girl carrying alarge load of wood. This is Anna.“Well hello!” I say, opening the doorwide.The dishwashers step aside to forma corridor of applause. Anna, pleased,makes her way to the common room todeposit the firewood.After dinner I notice Anna in polkadottights bounce over to fill water bucketsfor kitchen use while her companionFrancis squeals, “Can I chop wood?”The children are with their dads, oneof whom is the hut custodian. It’s clearthe children are learning through exampleand instruction that the mountain wildernessis precious and must be tended withrespect and care.In the bunk above me the kids gigglebefore sleep. When they descend thewooden ladder in the morning I whisperto Anna, “You guys are angels!” Shesmiles quietly.With the ascent to Wiwaxy Gap behind them,Anna Erickson and Francis Benoit share lunchhigh above Lake O’Hara. photo by Scott Benoit.Next day I stay a long time alone atLake McArthur as the emergent sunchanges the lake’s surface from grey tojewelled turquoise. I’m in a sacred placewhere one feels wholly present and partof nature.Guests at Elizabeth Parker Hut thatSeptember weekend had an opportunityto take away the example set by twoyoungsters already familiar with themantra, “do more than your share andleave only handprints”.Foreshadowing a hopeful future, AnnaErickson and Francis Benoit demonstratedmore awareness of appropriatebackcountry safety and behaviour thanmany adults I’ve encountered, contributingboth delight and promise to ourexperience at Yoho National Park.

Open airby Lawrence WhiteIlisten to a lot of CBC Radio. Myless liberal friends make fun of mefor this, but like the Alpine Club ofCanada, CBC is a Canadian institution.Granted, the ACC doesn’t receive anyfunding from the federal government,but both organizations do share a fundamentalbelief in promoting Canadianculture, and, in the ACC’s case, Canadianmountain culture.I particularly enjoy the morningDaybreak program on CBC Calgarythat reaches the Club’s National Officein Canmore, which is located in the BowValley, about an hour’s drive west of thecity. The program is hosted by Jim BrownCLASSIFIEDSAFFORDABLEHIMALAYA and ACONCAGUA5% discount for acc membersClimbing and walking trips for menand women, with Dan Mazur.All ages and abilities, expert tonovice. Everest climbs and treks, AmaDablam, Cho Oyu, Baruntse, NorthCol, Lhotse, Everest Glacier School,Island Peak, Muztagh Ata, Mera Peak.www.SummitClimb.cominfo@SummitClimb.com360-570-0715NOTICESUpcoming MeetingsExecutive Committee meeting:●●Sept. 10 - 11, 2011 in Lake LouiseBoard of Directors meeting:●●October 29 - 30, 2011 in CanmoreMountain Guides Ball:●●October 29, 2011 in BanffClassified Ad Rates:$25 plus $1 per word + GSTE-mail your ad to:ads@alpineclubofcanada.caor mail to the address on page 3.facebook.com/alpineclubofcanadatwitter.com/alpineclubcanACC staff gather outside the Canmore Clubhouse. From left to right: Jeff Lockyer, Chris Fenlon-MacDonald, Rick Gardiner, Earl Takahashi, Emma Varga, Kevin Lohka, Mary Lovell, Toby Harper, NancyHansen, Sylvain Vanier, Lawrence White, Darren Enderwick, Micheline Charette, Crystal Como; front:Sheila Churchill. Missing: Suzan Chamney, Venessa Langhorn, Riley McGurk and Chelsea Selinger.who used to be heard on CBC RadioSt. John’s Newfoundland and, I havecome to learn, is the former host of thepopular CBC show, The Current. Withthe exception of the sometimes funny,more often not, “Voice” who opens TheCurrent, I also enjoy this program whichis hosted by none other than Anna MariaTremonti, who, it could be said, borderson Canadian institutional glory à la DonCherry, but for the more refined.By now you’re probably askingyourself where this is going. BesidesÀ ciel ouvertpar Lawrence WhiteJ’écoute souvent Radio Canada. Mesamis un peu mois libéraux se moquentde moi à cause de ça, mais comme leCAC, Radio Canada est une institutioncanadienne. C’est vrai que le CAC nereçoit pas de subvention du gouvernementfédéral, par contre les deux organisationspromeuvent la culture canadienne- dans le cas du CAC, la culture canadiennedes montagnes.J’apprécie particulièrement le programmematinal Daybreak aux ondesde CBC Calgary, que j’écoute au bureaunational du Club à Canmore. Canmoreest situé dans la Vallée de la Bow àenviron une heure de conduite à l’ouest dela ville. Le programmeme est animé parJim Brown, celui qu’on entendait à CBCSt. John’s Terre-Neuve et comme animateurpour The Current un programmepopulaire du CBC national. Avecl’exception d’une « Voix » parfois (maispas souvent) drôle qui débute The Current,j’aime aussi ce programme qui est animédrawing the parallels in our mutuallyiconic status in Canada, it occurred tome that, like radio hosts, ACC members,the “listeners”, almost certainlyhave preconceived images of what theirhumble staff members look like as theytoil away in the Canadian Rockies wilderness.I for one was surprised to seewhat Jim Brown looked like. Of course,now that I know, he looks exactly likehe sounds.Lawrence White is Executive Director ofthe Alpine Club of Canada.par nul autre que Anna Maria Tremonti,qui, ont pourrait dire s’approche de lamême gloire institutionnelle canadienneque Don Cherry, mais un peu plusraffinée.Vous vous demandez probablement oùcet article vous mène. Appart l’élaborationdes parallèles dans notre status communemblématique au Canada, j’ai réalisé queles membres du CAC («les écouteurs»)ont certainement des images préconçuesde ce que leurs membres du personnels,comme les animateurs à la radio,ont l’aire lorsqu’ils se promènent dansles Rocheuses canadiennes. Moi, j’étaissurpris après avoir rencontré Jim Brownen personne. Comme de raison, là que jele sais, il ressemble exactement à ce quej’entends quand il parle.Lawrence White est le Directeur Executifdu Club Alpin du Canda.Translated by ACC Member NathalieDelbecq.Club alpin du Canada Gazette été 2011 31