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By Jima Abbott Artists are an experimental bunch, always ready to ...

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Mendocino County Restaur<strong>an</strong>t GuideMendocino County Restaur<strong>an</strong>ts –Something for every dining desireMendocino County boasts a bountiful array of uniquerestaur<strong>an</strong>ts, with memorable dining experiences, magnificentviews <strong>an</strong>d delectable delights <strong>to</strong> satisfy <strong>an</strong>y craving.Locally produced <strong>an</strong>d org<strong>an</strong>ically grown ingredients, as wellas freshly baked goods, <strong>are</strong> a hallmark of m<strong>an</strong>y restaur<strong>an</strong>tsthroughout the county. You'll find cuisine r<strong>an</strong>ging fromThai <strong>to</strong> Itali<strong>an</strong> <strong>to</strong> French <strong>to</strong> North Coast favorites, <strong>an</strong>denjoy ambience sp<strong>an</strong>ning from fine dining <strong>to</strong> cozypubs <strong>to</strong> comfortable, relaxed coffee houses. Pick one.You c<strong>an</strong>'t go wrong!Check Out These Special Restaur<strong>an</strong>tsThe Ravens’ Restaur<strong>an</strong>t:Conscious Diningby Gus T. TorreyOutside generous western windows, a kettle of ravensgyres above the trees lining Big River. “They’re digging upthe garden,” grumbles our host, but we c<strong>an</strong> tell he’s not reallycomplaining. These birds named his gourmet vegetari<strong>an</strong>restaur<strong>an</strong>t, <strong>an</strong>d a little late winter forage is not begrudged.The folks at The Ravens Restaur<strong>an</strong>t at St<strong>an</strong>ford Inn <strong>are</strong> seriousabout the serving of local, slow food. Their ambitiousmission is <strong>to</strong> demonstrate that healthy <strong>an</strong>d satisfying foodc<strong>an</strong> be produced <strong>an</strong>d cooked with a lighter <strong>to</strong>uch on ourenvironment, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>to</strong> “seduce” those who doubt that a meatlessdinner c<strong>an</strong> satisfy.Gracious table settings, accommodating service, <strong>an</strong>d apromptly served amuse bouche—bright or<strong>an</strong>ge carrot patéserved with dark, tasty flax crackers—let us know this willbe no ordinary meal. I ask about the crackers, <strong>an</strong>d our serverenthusiastically lists their ingredients <strong>an</strong>d explains thatthey <strong>are</strong> dried, not baked, whole-food style, <strong>to</strong> preservetheir goodness.We begin our meal with fu<strong>to</strong>maki rolls: daikon radish,shiitake mushrooms, carrots with green tea infused ricerolled in locally harvested nori, accomp<strong>an</strong>ied by shoyu,<strong>to</strong>asted sesame dotted wasabi, <strong>an</strong>d superb house pickledginger.The Caesar salad is inventively seasoned <strong>an</strong>d surprisingyet still easily conforms<strong>to</strong> the definition ofCaesarness. A beet saladmatches mellow PointReyes Bleu with yellow<strong>an</strong>d red beets on a bedextraordinarily rich infresh tiny lettuce leavesperfectly dressed withMeyer lemon vinaigrette.The menu is seasonalbecause so much of the produce is grown in the certifiedorg<strong>an</strong>ic gardens visible below. These colorful gardens, 21years in the making, <strong>are</strong> the mainspring of the restaur<strong>an</strong>t.It’s late April, a quiet weekday evening, but the windowtables <strong>are</strong> all filled with appreciative diners. We try a newentrée, Lemongrass curry with bok choi fresh from the garden.We note with pleasure that the ambience, service, <strong>an</strong>dpresentation <strong>are</strong> outst<strong>an</strong>ding even among local restaur<strong>an</strong>ts,formal enough <strong>to</strong> honor the fineness of the food, yetrelaxed <strong>an</strong>d homey. One of the house cats strolls alooflythrough the room. We all cle<strong>an</strong> our plates <strong>an</strong>d smile at eachother in satisfaction, replete without the heaviness thatsometimes accomp<strong>an</strong>ies meat.Our server hopes <strong>to</strong> tempt us with the all-veg<strong>an</strong> (no<strong>an</strong>imal products) desserts, <strong>an</strong>d they do sound delicious. Wepromise that next time we will order conservatively fromthe Local Specials menu (ID may be required), <strong>an</strong>d saveroom for dessert.Coast Hwy One & Comptche Ukiah Rd. 707 937-5615or 800 331-8884. Website: www.st<strong>an</strong>fordinn.com35

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