WT_2006_03: CHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 24 DAY & NIGHT

Advantages+ Good legibility+ Excellent craftsmanship+ Easy-to-grasp crownDisadvantages– High price– Bezel cannot be locked in placeSLOWHANDA two-tone dial, a 24-hour time display, and a big crown: the Chronoswiss Timemaster 24Day & Night is an eye-catcher on the wrist. We took a look behind the scenes at thisunconventional timepiece.BY WITOLD A. MICHALCZYKAn Irish proverb tells us that “WhenGod created time, He madeenough of it.” But some peoplehaven’t gotten the message yet. They continueto behave as though they had too little time attheir disposal. They’re also the ones who subdivideprecious time into ever-briefer segments.Of course, nearly all wristwatches cutthe day into two 12-hour halves. With all thissubdividing going on, it’s no wonder that wesometimes feel as though we haven’t got anytime left at all. Chronoswiss’s new Timemaster24 assuages those fears and stems the tide oftimelessness. This watch’s minute hand completesone lap around the dial every 60 minutes,just like the minute hand on an ordinarywatch or clock. But the center-mounted hourhand requires a whole day, i.e., 24 hours, tocome full circle. It takes its sweet time: twice asmuch time as an ordinary hour hand. This is arare feature among modern watches. Onlyphoto: Roberto Laraia96 WatchTime June 2006

CHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 24 DAY & NIGHTIts slow-moving hour hand will play tricks with your psyche and make you feel as thoughyou’ve got all the time in the world.about a dozen models with slow-running hourhands can be found in the catalogs of the variousmanufacturers. The best-known modelsare probably Breitling’s Cosmonaute andGlycine’s Airman.The situations in which a 24-hour display isgenuinely useful are admittedly few. Submarinecrewmen and polar explorers would betwo potential target groups. Pilots who appreciatenostalgia belong to another professionalgroup whose members might be interested inthis type of watch.Pilots’ watches from the early days of motorizedflight were the godfathers for thestyling that Gerd-Rüdiger Lang and his teamdevised for the Timemaster 24 Day & Night.This watch has big numerals and broad, highcontrasthands: if it had been available back inthe 1920s and ‘30s, it would surely have beena popular piece of equipment on the wrists ofthose daring young men in the jaw-jarringcockpits of their flying machines.Anyone who opts for this timepiece willneed to spend some time becoming accustomedto the unconventional relationship betweenthe positions of its hands and the timeof day or night. Getting used to reading thisdial is rather fun…it’s a bit like driving a Britishcar with its steering wheel on the right. After afew days, you begin to feel comfortable with it,but if you’re in a hurry (or have to make a rightturn in London traffic), you’re liable to becomeconfused.Chronoswiss’s designers have taken painsto make it easier for people to become accustomedto the unaccustomed. First of all, theThe cock, which was added to support a sweep seconds hand, is only one of the many eye-catchingalterations that the Unitas movement has undergone.daytime hours from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., i.e., thehalf of the day that’s most relevant for ordinarypeople, are boldly indicated on the upper halfof the dial. This detail distinguishes theTimemaster from most other timepieces with24-hour displays. The numerals for these 12hours are coated with luminous material sothey contrast strongly with the black backgroundand positively draw your gaze towardsthem. The nighttime hours are indicated byblack numerals against a pale background.This half of the dial glows so brightly when twilightcomes that you can’t possibly overlook it.The hands gleam brightly and in a slightly differentcolor, so you won’t have any trouble locatingthem in the dark. The sapphire crystal isnon-reflective on its inner surface, but the glassnonetheless reflects light, which can createglare. The domed crystal doesn’t distort thenumerals unless you peer through it at a veryobtuse angle.This variation is more practical than its partnermodel, which has a uniformly dark-coloreddial. If you compare the Timemaster 24 Day &Night with its two relatives (which have conventional12-hour time displays), you’ll probablyagree that the additional numerals on ourtest candidate’s dial give it a more balancedand appealing look.The craftsmen who made the dial havemeticulously ensured that both its halves areexactly coplanar. The layer of black lacquer onthe upper half of the dial is precisely as thick asthe coating of luminous material on the lowerhalf. This fine workmanship is best appreciatedby scrutinizing the line where the two halvesmeet. The luminous substance isn’t appliedwith quite the same consummate accuracy attwo places: near the “6” and on the markingbeside the “18.”From a technical point of view, it doesn’ttake a rocket scientist to rework a 12-hour displayto produce a 24-hour indicator. But Gerd-Rüdiger Lang wasn’t satisfied to merely halvethe speed of the hour hand. The Unitas 6497supports a seconds hand at the “9,” but Lang98 WatchTime June 2006

CHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 24 DAY & NIGHTGetting used to reading this dial is rather fun…it’s a bit likedriving a British car with its steering wheel on the right.The large distance between the case and the crown makes it very convenient to set the time.DATACHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 24DAY & NIGHTManufacturer: Chronoswiss,Elly-Staegmeyr-Strasse 12, 80999 MunichModel: Timemaster 24 Day & NightFunctions: 24-hour display, hours, minutes,seconds, stop-seconds functionMovement: Caliber C.674, based on aUnitas/ETA 6497-1; diameter = 36.6 mm;height = 5.4 mm; 18,000 vibrations per hour;18 jewels, Incabloc shock absorption, swan’sneck fine adjustment, screw balance, powerreserve of about 48 hoursCase: Stainless steel case crafted from 22 parts;threaded screw-in back, sapphire crystal is nonreflectiveon one surface; rotating bezel;screwed strap lugs (Autobloc system); upperhalf of dial is matte black with Super-LuminovaC3 on the numbers; the entire lower half (butnot the matte black numerals) is coated withSuper-Luminova C3; screwed crown; waterresistantto 100 metersStrap and clasp: Crocodile-skin strap withpronged buckle; extensible cowhide strap alsoincludedRate results:(Deviations in seconds per 24 hours)Dial up +12Dial down: +5Crown up: +3Crown down: +2Crown left: +8Crown right: -3Greatest deviation of rate: 15Average deviation: +4.5Mean amplitudeflat positions 313°hanging positions: 297°Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm;height = 12.3 mm; weight = 100 gramsPrice: $6,750preferred a sweep seconds hand. The modifiedcaliber inside the Timemaster 24 Day & Nightsupports a center-mounted seconds hand becauseLang added a wheel and a pinion beneatha massive cock. These additional componentsadded 0.9 millimeters to the height ofthe movement, which is now 5.4 millimeterstall. The central seconds hand also received itsown ruby, which raised the total number ofjewels from 17 to 18. Standard features on themodified caliber, which goes by the alphanumericdesignation “C.674,” include a stopsecondsfunction, a screw balance, and aswan’s neck fine adjustment mechanism. Agenerously proportioned window in the backof the case lets you feast your eyes on thispowerhouse, which has been prettily decoratedin typical Chronoswiss style. The adornmentsinclude Geneva waves on the upper surfaces,cloud-pattern embellishment under thebalance, and a precisely positioned sunburstpattern on the barrel wheel and crown wheel(a k a “transmission wheel”). The wheels havebeen polished to a mirror-like sheen. The entireensemble is a pleasure to look at. It provesjust how beautiful a sleek and simple movementcan be when it has the good fortune topass through the right hands. Some of thosehands, incidentally, belong to artisans whowork at Arola in Les Bioux, Switzerland. Andthey individually number each movementwhen they’re finished embellishing it.The hour hand on this wristwatch movesslowly, but its slowness shouldn’t be equatedwith a lack of precision. The specimen that wetested in our laboratory gained an average of4.5 seconds per day. That’s an entirely acceptableperformance for a hand-wound movement.Empirical tests on the wrist measured adaily gain of between 5 and 6 seconds, whichis also satisfactory. The maximum deviation of12 seconds per day occurred when the watchwas in the “dial up” position, so when youtake your Timemaster off at night and put it onyour nightstand, you’d be better advised toleave it curled on its side like a sleeping catrather than flat on its back.Apropos the back: this one slides smooth assilk through its threads when you open thecase. This is an admittedly small detail, but itconfirms the unflaggingly high quality of thecraftsmanship. The interior of the case revealsexactly what one expects from this fine brand.The insulator fits perfectly inside its groove,where it helps the Timemaster remain waterresistantto 100 meters’ depth. The movementnearly fills the case, so no bulky movement-100 WatchTime June 2006

CHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 24 DAY & NIGHTThe lower half of the dialglows so brightly that itcan practically double as aflashlight.holder ring is needed. Those rings are unattractivefeatures inside jumbo watches encasingsmall movements.The stainless steel case is undoubtedly firstrate. Precisely brushed strokes give a matte surfaceto the side of the case, which is flankedabove and below by grooved rings. As on thedial, here, too, the flair derives from a winningcombination of high-tech and high class.The upper bezel rotates smoothly and inboth directions without incremental stops.However, because the bezel cannot be lockedin place, we would urge you not to bet your lifeon what its luminous markings tell you.The lugs extend harmoniously from thecase. Their polished upper surfaces make avery appealing impression. The strap lugs arescrewed, of course. Two curved metal plates inthe strap ensure that it flexibly joins the case.Shocks impinging on the wearer’s wrist arethereby cushioned before they can reach thesensitive components inside the watch. Thisshock-absorption system is simple but inarguablyeffective: when we tested our candidate’srate after it had accompanied us for arough ride on a mountain bike, we found thatthe rate had scarcely changed at all. Velvetysoft lining lets the crocodile-skin strap wrap itselfsoftly around the wrist, thus emphasizingthe elegant aspect of this bold watch. If youprefer a sportier look, you can switch strapsand wear your Timemaster with a thickcowhide wristband. The aforementioned metalplates make it child’s play to change thestraps. This watch looks great in each variation(crocodile-skin or cowhide).The onion-shaped crown extends quite along way from the case. We’d be hard pressedto find a crown that can boast greater userfriendlinessthan this one. An extra-long tubeincreases the distance between the case andthe crown, and also enhances the crown’s operability.You’ll be able to wind this watch andset its hands, even if you’re wearing thickgloves. But the crown’s large size and the longdistance it extends from the case cause oneminor disadvantage: the crown can sometimesleave marks on the back of your hand. Ifyou’re not wearing gloves, you’ll want toavoid actions that require sudden hyperextensionof your left wrist. If you can keep that inmind, you’ll find that this watch is very comfortableindeed. The case is admittedly large(43 mm) and its horizontal diameter is 10 mmlarger because of the big crown, but the bignessis well proportioned. The watch’s height(more than 12 mm) doesn’t make itself apparentuntil you try to hide it under a closefittingcuff. On the other hand, why wouldyou ever want to hide it? The Timemaster 24TEST RESULTSCHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 24DAY & NIGHTStrap and clasp (max. 10 points): Well-craftedcrocodile-skin strap is supple and wraps itselfsmoothly around the wrist. The elegant and reliablepronged buckle is a good match for theoverall styling. An additional cowhide strap is anice extra. 8Operation (5): The large crown is easy tograsp and operate, even if you’re wearing thickgloves. A locking mechanism for the bezelwould have been a welcome detail. 5Case (10): Chronoswiss’s cases are alwayselaborately crafted, and this holds true with theTimemaster 24 Day & Night. All its elements fittogether perfectly. Even under a loupe, wecouldn’t find any errors in the finishing. 9Design (15): Nostalgia lovers won’t be the onlyones who’ll like this watch. Its well-thought-outdesign combines elegance, functionality, andclassical watch construction. 14Legibility (5): Exemplary legibility thanks to acleverly designed dial with large numerals andhands. The rare and slight glare reflected offthe crystal isn’t a problem. But the watch’swearer may need some time to become accustomedto its unconventional time display. 5Wearing comfort (10): The big crown is aneye-catcher, but it can leave a mark on theback of the wearer’s hand. The reinforced partsof the buckle can be felt when you first put thewatch on, but not while you’re wearing it. 7Movement (20): The classic Unitas caliber isstill readily recognizable. The reworking and thedecorations have strikingly improved its appearanceand made it quite attractive. 13Rate results (10): The performance was goodfor a hand-wound movement, although there’sa lot of variation among the several positions. 7Overall rating (15): The small number ofpieces produced and the very high standards ofquality justify the relatively high price. 12TOTAL:80 pointsis an eye-catcher and it’s built to do just that,namely, attract appreciative gazes.Even though it has earned the right to be ahighly popular item, the Timemaster 24 willprobably never become a phenomenal bestsellersimply because its time display is so veryunconventional. With a price tag of $6,750, thisisn’t the sort of merchandise you’re likely to buyon impulse, especially when you consider thatjust a few dollars more will get you the flybackchronograph in the same series. If you’re lookingfor a wristwatch that combines an exclusivetime display with equally exclusive craftsmanshipand styling, then the Timemaster 24 is hardto beat. Not only will it give you years of pleasure,its slow-moving hour hand will play trickswith your psyche and make you feel as thoughyou’ve got all the time in the world. ■102 WatchTime June 2006