link 1 /2010 04 Trends & MArKeTs Belarus textile market on ... - Rieter

The customer magazine of Rieter Spun Yarn Systems 

Vol. 22. / No . 54 . January <strong>2010</strong> / EN 

<strong>link</strong> 1 

/<strong>2010</strong> 

<strong>04</strong> <strong>Trends</strong> & <strong>MArKeTs</strong> <strong>Belarus</strong> <strong>textile</strong> <strong>market</strong> on track for the future 07 Our CusTOMers Yutex 

and Melange, a Kazakh success story 10 0 TeC�nO�O�� TeC�nO�O�� Impressive: the E 66 and E 76 combers in mill 

operation 16 rIeTer InsIde “The Rieter Manual of Spinning”: a reference work of spinning know-how

2 Rieter . �InK 54 . 1 /<strong>2010</strong> 

COnTenTs 

Cover: 

Rieter combing system with 

the E 76 and OMEGAlap E 35. 

Publisher: 

Rieter Spun Yarn Systems, 

responsible Edda Walraf. 

editor-in-chief: 

Nadia Qaud 

Copyright: 

© <strong>2010</strong> by Rieter Machine Works Ltd., 

Klosterstrasse 20, CH-8406 Winterthur, 

www.rieter.com, rieter-<strong>link</strong>@rieter.com 

Reprints permitted, subject to prior approval; 

specimen copies requested. 

design and production: 

Marketing Rieter CZ s.r.o., Pavel Bielik 

Printing HRG s.r.o., Czech Republic 

03 edITOrIA� 

<strong>Trends</strong> & <strong>MArKeTs</strong> 

<strong>04</strong> <strong>Belarus</strong> <strong>textile</strong> <strong>market</strong> on track for the future 

<strong>Belarus</strong> – formerly a member of the Soviet Union – is 

currently in a controlled development phase. A fascinating 

insight into the development of the <strong>textile</strong> industry in 

<strong>Belarus</strong>. 

Our CusTOMers 

07 �utex and Melange, a Kazakh success story 

The unique road to success of a Kazakh family who 

have only been in the <strong>textile</strong> business for 10 years. The 

milestone reached to date is a vertically integrated <strong>textile</strong> 

company with modern equipment. 

TeC�nO�O�� 

10 Impressive: the e 66 and e 76 combers in mill 

operation 

Gentle combing with maximum output is a trademark 

feature of Rieter combers. The E 66/E 76 combers 

impress with outstanding quality. 

12 new rsB-d 22 autoleveler drawframe: single-head 

autoleveling quality on two heads 

14 swivel rather than contort! sWIVe�plate eVO is the 

answer 

15 “Magic EyE M1”: this magic eye sees everything 

rIeTer InsIde 

16 “The rieter Manual of spinning”: a reference work of 

spinning know-how 

The new, revised “Rieter Manual of Spinning” offers 

technical specialists, students and interested readers 

a multi-volume reference work with a practical focus on 

short-staple spinning technology.

dear �InK readers 

The economic situation is still tense and investments 

have to be carefully considered at such times. We 

too ask ourselves with each and every new purchase 

whether it is really necessary, and invest in machinery 

and technologies that give Rieter a competitive 

edge. 

Which are the key machines in the spinning mill? 

Which machines help you gain an advantage in the 

keenly contested yarn <strong>market</strong>? Machines that require 

modest capital investment and have a big impact on 

the quality of the yarn produced, such as autoleveler 

drawframes and combers. 

All Rieter's RSB drawframes feature high delivery 

speeds and high-precision autoleveling. Optimal 

combing-out, low fiber loss and low energy consumption 

are the main characteristics of the E 66/ 

E 76 combers. 

�ow can you gain a long-term competitive edge? 

With higher productivity, energy savings and improved 

raw material utilization. These have been the 

focus of our development engineers' work for many 

years. This is the only way spinning mills can reduce 

manufacturing costs over the long term. Rieter ring 

spinning machines achieve higher levels of efficiency, 

consume considerably less energy and produce 

economically. 

Invest in training 

In addition to the right machinery portfolio, well 

trained spinning mill personnel are the key to success. 

Knowledge and skill are the building blocks for 

high product quality and productivity. Training and 

personnel development in spinning mills are only 

possible if the available technological know-how is 

passed on. 

Rieter . �InK 54 . 1 /<strong>2010</strong> 

EDITORIAL 

“The rieter Manual of spinning” 

The new “Rieter Manual of Spinning” textbooks lay 

the foundation for spinning mills, institutions and 

universities worldwide to share Rieter's technological 

know-how. Rieter will shortly make an online edition 

of the manual – named “RIKIpedia” – available 

at www.rieter.com. 

Training pays off 

The better personnel are trained, the better equipped 

they are to adjust, operate and maintain the machines. 

Machine efficiency is improved, downtime is reduced. 

Invest in a single training session and benefit from a 

lasting gain in efficiency. At our training courses you 

learn more about the technological relationships between 

the different process stages and learn how to optimize 

the efficiency of the entire spinning mill. 

Customized training 

Five instructors train our customers on the latest machines 

at the Rieter Training Center in Winterthur. The 

range of courses has now been adapted for different 

management levels. There has been an excellent response 

to our seminars for mill managers. We now offer 

seminars for middle management. These courses focus 

on technological coordination of the machines and 

process optimization. In the machinery courses operators 

and maintenance personnel learn everything about 

drive engineering, electronics, programming and technology. 

We also train purchasers from department store 

chains so that they have some idea of the complexity 

of <strong>textile</strong> manufacturing, quality and their influence on 

costs. 

We keep you informed via Rieter LINK about the extensive 

range that Rieter has to offer you: innovations 

in machinery and spare parts, technological 

expertise and training. 

9-100 • 

reto Thom 

Head Markets 

Winterthur 

reto.thom@rieter.com 

3


TRENDS & MARKETS 

<strong>Belarus</strong> <strong>textile</strong> <strong>market</strong> on track 

for the future 

The economy of <strong>Belarus</strong> – formerly a member of the soviet union – is currently 

in a controlled development phase, since it has not yet evolved into 

a free <strong>market</strong> economy. A fascinating insight into the development of the 

<strong>textile</strong> industry in <strong>Belarus</strong>. 

Fig. 1 The rising 

nation of <strong>Belarus</strong> came 

into being in 1991. 

Fig. 2 <strong>Belarus</strong>, located 

between Russia and 

Europe. 

<strong>Belarus</strong> is a nation in Eastern Europe whose borders 

with the European Union – Poland, Latvia and 

Lithuania, to be exact – amount to one third of their 

total length, while its other neighbors are Russia and 

the Ukraine. The country stretches 650 km from east 

to west at its widest point, and 560 km from north 

to south. In terms of surface area <strong>Belarus</strong> is the 13 th 

largest European country and therefore its largest 

landlocked nation. 

Politics 

The country has been independent since 1991, when 

it emerged from the former Soviet Union. The country’s 

form of government is that of a presidential republic, 

of which Aleksandr Lukashenko has been 

president since 1994. The bi-cameral parliament is 

elected by popular vote. <strong>Belarus</strong> is officially a member 

of the “Union of Russia and <strong>Belarus</strong>”. Very good 

and intensive foreign relations are limited to only a 

few countries. 

economy 

The <strong>Belarus</strong> economy has not yet evolved into a free 

<strong>market</strong> economy. The centrally planned economy is 

still preferred as a political system. The country’s 

economic situation has been stable to date by virtue 

of very good economic relations with Russia. Industry 

and agriculture are largely state-controlled. 

Increasing numbers of companies have been nationalized 

again since 2005. 

<strong>Belarus</strong> therefore has one of the world’s few economies 

based on the state-capitalism model. Having 

been subsidized to date by preferential treatment for 

commodity prices, the economy has got into difficulties 

since Russia raised the price of crude oil. Agriculture, 

which accounts for 15% of employment, is 

dominated by two main branches of activity, potato 

growing and cattle breeding. Important industrial 

sectors are <strong>textile</strong>s and timber processing. Within 

the Soviet Union machine manufacturing and the 

electronics industry were particularly encouraged. 

Economic output in <strong>Belarus</strong> contracted when structures 

based on <strong>market</strong> economy principles were introduced 

in 1990. Growth did not recommence until 

1996. 1990 levels were attained again in both agriculture 

and industry in 2001. Real per capita gross 

domestic product (GDP) was approx. US$ 4 620 in 

2007. Gross domestic product has increased continuously 

in the past 10 years by 3.5 - 11.5% annually. 

According to UN figures, <strong>Belarus</strong> has the highest 

standard of living within the Commonwealth of Independent 

States (CIS). Average monthly income has 

grown from US$ 20 to US$ 225 in the past 10 years. 

One fly in the ointment has been the relatively high 

inflation rates, in some cases at double-digit percentages, 

in recent years.

Fig. 3 The office 

of Rieter’s agent is 

located in Minsk, the 

capital of <strong>Belarus</strong>. 

The <strong>textile</strong> industry 

<strong>Belarus</strong> is one of the largest apparel and <strong>textile</strong> manufacturers 

in the CIS. The apparel industry survived 

the collapse of the Soviet Union better – compared 

with other successor states – due to government 

support. From today’s standpoint the impact of this 

government support on manufacturers’ international 

competitiveness has not been unreservedly positive. 

There is a lack of capital for investment in 

productivity and quality. Some plants are making 

good progress toward investing systematically and 

adapting to the prevailing circumstances. The country 

still has some advantages to offer as an industrial 

location which can be exploited: qualified and disciplined 

personnel, low labor costs and intact connections 

with the Russian <strong>market</strong>. Funds are also being 

selectively allocated to updating facilities within the 

scope of government resources. 

Light industry in <strong>Belarus</strong>, which includes the manufacture 

of <strong>textile</strong>s, garments and shoes, totals some 

500 businesses, half of which produce <strong>textile</strong>s and 

apparel. Sales revenues in 2007 amounted to some 

US$ 1.52 billion. Alongside the traditional <strong>textile</strong> industry, 

fiber production is an important factor. The 

first viscose fibers were manufactured in Mogilev as 

long ago as 1930. Polyester and polyamide have also 

been produced at various locations since 1965. In 

1990, shortly before the collapse of the Soviet Union, 

more than 50% of all manmade fibers and yarns 

were produced in what is now <strong>Belarus</strong>. Virtually all 

manmade fibers for <strong>textile</strong> and technical yarns are 

now manufactured in the country. Total output in 

2007 amounted to some 228 000 tonnes. 

Another important fiber is linen, a natural product 

that is cultivated in large quantities in <strong>Belarus</strong>. Today 

<strong>Belarus</strong> is already the fourth-largest producer 

of linen worldwide and exports more than half of its 

linen output. Production is to be increased by a further 

60 000 tonnes per year. Orsha Linen Mill, one 

of the largest linen producers in Europe, processes 

one-third of the local flax crop into approx. 3 million 

square meters of linen fabric annually. 



rieter’s presence 

Rieter has delivered the following machines to various 

<strong>textile</strong> mills since <strong>Belarus</strong> became independent: 

UNIfloc machines, cards, drawframes, combers, roving 

frames, ring spinning machines and rotor spinning 

machines. 

In absolute terms, no great quantities have been delivered, 

but Rieter nevertheless has a large <strong>market</strong> 

share in <strong>Belarus</strong>. Rieter’s agent, with headquarters 

in Germany and a very active office in the capital city 

of Minsk, has made a significant contribution to our 

success. Local knowledge of the <strong>market</strong> and above 

all good relationships with customers and the “Bellegprom 

Concern” have enabled Rieter to establish a 

strong position in this <strong>market</strong>. 

Potential <strong>textile</strong> mill developments 

Private investment in machinery by <strong>Belarus</strong> customers 

is possible in only very few cases. The “Bellegprom 

Concern” was established in 1992 and currently represents 

about 120 plants scattered throughout the 

country. All these companies employ a total of some 

100 000 personnel. 16 plants with 30 000 employees 

are engaged in <strong>textile</strong> production, accounting for 

39% of Bellegprom’s sales revenues. 

In recent years and the current year a number of minor 

and also major investments have been approved 

for the selective modernization of existing facilities. 

Rieter has planned and sold updated facilities 

to three customers in this context. Some of these installations 

have already come into operation. 

Lots of <strong>textile</strong> engineering expertise exists in <strong>Belarus</strong>. 

Our customers’ requirements have been very 

diverse, including the production of sewing thread, 

linen yarns and blended yarns (tuft blending with 

UNIblend) – on ring spinning or rotor spinning machines. 

Planning the installations and machine configurations 

was therefore technically demanding and 

varied. 

5



Fig. 4 Flowering splendor – 

a field of linen. 

Fig. 5 The flax stems are first 

dried in preparation for fiber 

processing. 

Fig. 6 Characteristic features 

of linen – slight thickening, 

creased appearance, smooth, 

cool hand and slight gloss. 

Background information on linen 

Linen is a fiber obtained from the flax plant which 

was already being processed 6 000 to 7 000 years 

ago. Starting in the late 19 th century – during the 

Industrial Revolution – linen was superseded by 

cotton, which was cheaper and easier to process industrially. 

Nowadays flax is gaining in importance 

again as an ecological natural fiber. Linen is the only 

fiber indigenous to Western Europe which is available 

on the <strong>market</strong> in controlled biological quality 

(Fig. 4). 

The annual plant must be re-sown each year. However, 

flax can only be grown on the same land every 

seven years. 

The flax fiber is obtained from the stems of the flax 

plant (Fig. 5). It is a bast fiber, bound together in 

bundles. These bundles can be separated chemically 

into individual fibers by cottonization – this is 

the only practicable production method for preparing 

the fibers (9 - 70 mm long) for short staple spinning. 

Linen can also be manufactured without using modern 

engineering methods, but the processing of linen 

fibers is complicated and labor-intensive. Long fibers 

are usually spun into threads using the wet spinning 

method. Short fibers are usually spun dry. 

Future prospects 

Low labor and infrastructure costs, their excellent 

geographical location relative to the large European 

<strong>market</strong>s and ongoing good relations with Russia 

should enable companies in <strong>Belarus</strong> to hold their 

own against the global competition. Well trained personnel 

with technical know-how and a background of 

<strong>textile</strong> experience are available. Local fiber production 

– linen, viscose and polyester – can be optimally 

utilized as synergies. 

Both rotor and ring spinning are suitable spinning 

processes. Linen yarns are coarse and at the same 

time feel soft. The properties of the yarn and the fabric 

can be influenced considerably by blending with 

cotton, viscose and other fibers. 

Linen fabrics have traditionally been used for bed 

linen, table linen and household linen. They have 

been supplanted in these applications by cheaper 

cotton. New spheres of application such as apparel 

and furnishing fabrics are being added, especially in 

the shape of hand-woven, high-price products. Linen 

fibers are also being used for technical fabrics and as 

replacement material for asbestos fibers. 

Linen’s share of global fiber supplies is only about 

2%. World output amounts to some two million 

tonnes annually. The largest areas under cultivation 

are in China (161 000 hectares), the EU (France 

and Belgium, 102 740 hectares), Russia (89 210 

hectares), <strong>Belarus</strong> (71 000 hectares), the Ukraine 

(23 600 hectares) and Egypt (8 900 hectares). Interest 

in processing linen in large-scale industrial 

quantities is growing steadily. The ecological aspect 

is certainly a driving factor, and anyone who 

has worn linen knows how good it feels on the skin 

(Fig. 6). 

However, the investment required to keep pace with 

world <strong>market</strong> standards is enormous. If these investments 

can be made, <strong>Belarus</strong> has good prospects for 

becoming a major <strong>textile</strong> trading partner for Europe 

with high-quality and especially exclusive products. 

9-102 • 

Peter spirgi 

Sales Eastern Europe 

Winterthur 

peter.spirgi@rieter.com

�utex and Melange, a Kazakh 

success story 

The unique road to success of a Kazakh family who have only been in 

the <strong>textile</strong> business for 10 years. The starting point was the ambition to 

get a small cotton spinning mill in a disused group of <strong>textile</strong> enterprises 

from the soviet era up and running. A spinning mill full of machinery of 

an age that would make even Methuselah envious and which had specialists 

shaking their heads in disbelief. The milestone reached to date 

is a vertically integrated <strong>textile</strong> company with modern equipment. 

Fig. 1 Kazakhstan, 

which became independent 

in 1991, is the 

world’s ninth-largest 

country with a surface 

area of 2 724 900 km². 

When the Republic of Kazakhstan became a sovereign 

state in December 1991, the Kazakh people 

took the plunge from a socialist, centrally planned 

economy into a free <strong>market</strong> economy (Fig. 1). However, 

in the process the authorities had overlooked 

the fact that a certain capital stock, established infrastructure 

and an experienced business community 

was necessary for this to succeed. Since Moscow’s 

influence had been very powerful up to then and independence 

was granted with empty coffers, the 

consequences were predictable: the lack of capital, 

know-how and managers propelled Kazakhstan into 

a deep recession that amounted to a total wipe-out. 

Under the condescending smiles of neighbors, the 

struggle to overcome this predicament commenced. 


OUR CUSTOMERS 

Kazakhstan’s natural resources 

The rescue is largely attributable to Kazakhstan’s 

wealth in natural resources. Mendeleyev could probably 

have completed his periodic table of elements 

here. Rising oil prices and the constantly growing 

appetite of the world <strong>market</strong> for steel, iron and 

other metals fed the flow of cash into the country. 

This got trade and change moving in the mid-1990s. 

Young, highly educated Kazakhs established powerful 

banks. Some people earned lots of money in a 

short time. The government recognized the dangers 

of short-sighted growth and set itself ambitious targets: 

Kazakhstan was to become one of the 50 most 

highly developed countries in the world in the years 

to come. This meant promoting infrastructure and 

science, but above all manufacturing industry and 

agriculture, so that the country as a whole and its inhabitants 

can benefit. 

Birth of the modern <strong>textile</strong> industry 

The birth of the modern Kazakh <strong>textile</strong> industry came 

with the establishment of the state development 

bank and the specification of priority industrial sectors, 

so-called clusters. While manufacturing industry 

was hardly likely to develop with the backing of 

frightfully expensive loans from commercial banks, 

the development bank offered advantageous terms 

and conditions. This brought into action business 

people in the far south of the country, where cotton 

is grown, who saw their opportunity and future in 

<strong>textile</strong> manufacturing. 

The founders of what was then the ADAL company, 

the members of the family who now control the small 

empire which includes Yutex, Yutex KZ and Melange, 

were among the initial pioneers. A small loan was 

obtained to buy up plants in several countries. Lots 

of water flowed down the Syr Daya, one of the largest 

rivers in southern Kazakhstan, and lots of cash was 

invested before the first yarn was spun in the company’s 

own mills. 

Fig. 2 The Yutex company’s new spinning premises. 

7


OUR CUSTOMERS 

Fig. 3 State President 

Nursultan Nasarbayev 

starts up the UNIfloc 

A 11 at the Yutex 

opening ceremony. 

The installation includes legendary Rieter machines 

such as one of the first A 1/2 bale openers, and 

also B 2/2, B 7/3, B 5/5, C 4, SB 51, RSB 51 and 

6 RU 14 A machines. These machines still produce 

quite passable yarns in the coarse count range. 

The new ring spinning installation 

With the experience gained and a number of specialists 

familiar with the tasks involved, the company 

ventured on its first larger-scale project, a ring 

spinning installation for combed yarns with a total 

of 20 400 G 33 spindles. The contract was signed 

in September 2003. From that day onward, not a 

year has passed in which the customer has not continued 

to invest in the future. Just as the ring spinning 

mill started to produce high-quality yarn from 

locally available Kazakh cotton, the family had already 

signed a loan agreement to upgrade the Melange 

company (formerly ADAL). 

Vertical integration 

The challenge facing Rieter was not so much in engineering 

as in providing know-how for commercial exploitation. 

Rieter’s deliveries amounted to some part 

of the total contract. However, the customer and its 

bank entrusted the entire letter of credit to Rieter. 

Rieter’s Commercial Department did a perfect job – 

the customer was really enthusiastic – and a weaving 

mill as well as yarn and fabric finishing facilities were 

set up at a stroke. This move laid the foundation for 

expansion from a pure yarn manufacturer to a vertically 

integrated group. This was new territory for the 

company and lots of effort and energy were expended 

before this route could be embarked on. 

After handling this project, Rieter was not “merely” 

a supplier, but primarily a partner and mentor. The 

customer acquired a knitting mill and a complete garment 

manufacturing plant with embroidery facility. 

The company exhibited its own bed linen and toweling 

products for the first time in Germany at Heimtextil 

2009 in Frankfurt/Main in January 2009. 

Further modernization 

However, the owners’ plans were not yet finished: 

there were still old machines standing around at Melange 

which required more repair and maintenance 

work than they produced material. Processing and 

finishing capacity was also not yet being adequately 

utilized. Rieter received two orders in quick succession: 

the first task concerned the modernization 

and expansion of manufacturing facilities at Melange 

and Yutex (Fig. 3), the second order was for a completely 

new spinning mill and weaving plant, which 

was planned for the free trade zone in Shymkent. 

While some machines are currently being busily assembled, 

the others are already on the way to their 

destination. 

The list of machinery supplied by Rieter shows what 

has been delivered within the space of 5 years: 

• 5 complete blowroom lines with 10 VISION 

SHIELD units 

• 47 C 60 cards 

• 35 drawframes 

• 2 UNIlaps 

• 10 combers 

• 4 roving frames 

• 21 G 33 ring spinning machines with a total 

of 25 200 spindles 

• 31 R 40 rotor spinning machines with a total 

of 12 340 spinning boxes

Fig. 4 10 combers and 

2 UNIlap machines 

ensure optimum sliver 

preparation of combed 

yarns. 

Fig. 5 High-quality 

ring-spun yarn is 

produced on 21 

G 33 ring spinning 

machines. 

Some 4 800 tonnes of combed ring-spun yarn and 

21 500 tonnes of carded rotor-spun yarn are produced 

annually on these machines, all 100% cotton 

(Fig. 4 / 5). ). This corresponds approximately to the 

consumption of 30 000 bales of cotton, i.e. some 

20% of Kazakhstan’s total cotton output. 

These investments were all made without foreign 

cash or foreign guarantees. All the funds came from 

Kazakhstan. Things may move faster and have larger 


OUR CUSTOMERS 

dimensions in other <strong>market</strong>s, but experts on the region 

recognize the significance of this achievement. 

In future almost everything can be processed at Yutex, 

Yutex KZ and Melange. In addition to the Rieter 

installations, the machine portfolio also includes 

some 250 Dornier weaving machines, a number of 

circular knitting machines and processing and finishing 

facilities which handle some 40 million running 

meters annually. Customers in this region certainly 

aren’t unaffected by the financial crisis, either. The 

Russian and Kazakh <strong>market</strong>s in particular are being 

severely disrupted. However, the customer is confident 

of being well placed for the upturn that will follow 

the crisis. 

You will find further information on the homepage at 

www.<strong>textile</strong>s.kz. 9-101 • 

The author also wishes to thank other customers 

among the still small community 

of <strong>textile</strong> entrepreneurs in Kazakhstan 

who have expressed their confidence in 

Rieter, especially the Allians Kazakhskiy 

Russkiy Tekstil and OXY TEXTILE. Projects 

in Kazakhstan have become progressively 

larger, and also more complicated. All 

these projects are the result of tremendous 

teamwork and would hardly have 

been possible without the know-how of 

Rieter’s Commercial Department and the 

efforts of the Service Department. Many 

thanks are due to all those who sacrificed 

many a weekend and contributed to the 

fact that Rieter has a large share of the 

<strong>market</strong> in Kazakhstan. 

Jens-uwe Bockhahn 

Sales Central Asian CIS 

Winterthur 

jens-uwe.bockhahn@rieter.com 

9


TECHNOLOGY 

Impressive: the e 66 and e 76 

combers in mill operations 

�entle combing at maximum output is a trademark feature of rieter 

combers. The e 66/e 76 combers have been operating under mill conditions 

for some time. Customers’ standards differ, but the feedback is 

unanimous: these combers impress with their outstanding quality. 

Fig. 1 The Rieter 

combing system in mill 

operations – the E 66 

with 500 nips/minute. 

At the end of 2009 more than 450 combers E 66/ 

E 76 were already in production on the global <strong>market</strong>. 

Further orders are being processed. Customers 

comment positively on the new E 66/E 76 combers 

(Fig. 1). All customers using 1 1/8˝ cotton have 

achieved the 500 nips/minute quoted in the leaflet 

and therefore output of up to 74 kg/h. 

Impressive technology 

Rieter has the greatest store of experience in combing; 

its combing philosophy is trailblazing. The three 

pillars on which Rieter’s high-performance combing 

philosophy is based are: 

• Very high nip rate (up to 500 nips/min.) 

• Very high batt weight (up to 80 g/m) 

• Overfeed. 

The first two parameters are determined by the raw 

material, i.e. its staple length. The advantage of the 

high nip rate is the short dwell time of the fibers in 

the circular comb clothing. Combing is gentle and 

rapid, so the fibers are subject to little stress. Overelongation 

of the fibers is prevented and the stress/ 

strain ratio of the yarn is thus not affected. 

High batt weight enhances the so-called self-cleaning 

effect, i.e. when the combed fiber tuft is detached 

fiber/fiber friction occurs between the detached fibers 

and those remaining in the lap. This fiber/fiber 

friction in addition to the action of the circular and 

top combs enables neps, dust and trash to be removed. 

Overfeed proves its worth again and again, 

since it facilitates superior fiber selection and combs 

out most efficiently. This is also demonstrated in the 

long staple range. Numerous customers have recognized 

after adjusting these parameters that they 

have been able to improve quality and at the same 

time increase output (Fig. 2, below). 

Impressive quality 

Consistent noil removal and good imperfection values 

(Fig. 2), tenacity and elongation have been demonstrated 

in the field. Classimat readings (Fig. 3), 

which are important for customers, are also impressive. 

At up to 50 nips/min. faster, the E 66 and E 76 

achieved at least equal or even better quality compared 

to the E 65/E 75 predecessor models. 

Impressive know-how 

A technologically perfect lap and very good lap 

take-off behavior on the comber are essential preconditions 

in high-performance combing with batt 

weights of up to 80 g/m. These criteria are fulfilled 

by the laps from the UNIlap E 32 and the high-output 

OMEGAlap E 35. 

As regards the comber, optimally coordinated technology 

components and sequences of motion are necessary 

to realize this combing philosophy. This has 

also been achieved at 500 nips/min. using Rieter’s 

own CAPD software. Another important advantage is 

the in-house development of nippers, circular combs 

and top combs, the core elements of the comber.

Fig. 2 Customer test results: imperfections 

IPI / 1 000 m IPI / 1 000 m 

60 

50 

40 

30 

20 

10 

0 

200 

180 

160 

140 

120 

100 

80 

60 

40 

20 

0 

11 

0 

33 

22 

88 

32 

132 

55 

ne 62, long staple cotton 1 7/16˝ (36 mm), 20% noil 

35 

30 

25 

20 

15 

10 

5 

0 

e 65 

56 ktex / 30,6 kg/h 

320 nips/min. 

7 

27 

69 

103 

Thin places -50% Thick places +50% Neps +200% 

Total IPI CVm 

Fig. 3 Customer test results: Classimat values 

Faults [1/100 km] 

ne 40, medium staple cotton 1 1/8˝ (29 mm), 15% noil 

9.68 

e 65 

450 nips/min., 65.3 kg/h 

10,68 10,42 

28 

2 

3 

33 

1 

e 66 

56 ktex / 30,6 kg/h 

320 nips/min. 

ne 40, medium staple cotton 1 1/8˝ (29 mm) 

e 65 

450 nips/min. 

18 

22 

6 

1 

9.62 

30 

24 

3 

53 

e 66 

500 nips/min., 71.9 kg/h 

63 

22 

93 

e 66 

68 ktex / 48,8 kg/h 

420 nips/min. 

e 66 

500 nips/min. 

10,32 

Short thick places Long thick places Long thin places Total defects 

11.0 

9.0 

8.0 

7.0 

6.0 

5.0 

4.0 

3.0 

2.0 

1.0 

11.0 

10.5 

10.0 

9.5 

9.0 

8.5 

8.0 

7.5 

7.0 

6.5 

6.0 

CVm [%] 

CVm [%] 

Anja Knick 


TECHNOLOGY 

Extensive experience gained over many years enables 

characteristics such as tooth shape, tooth crosssection, 

tooth arrays, front angle and gap width to be 

ideally coordinated. 

Other impressive facts 

There are other powerful arguments in favor of the 

new combers in addition to technology, quality and 

know-how: 

• The lowest energy consumption compared to all 

other competitors: 3.5 kW at 500 nips/min. 

• The quietest comber: 86 dB at 500 nips/min. 

• Low space requirements: up to 50% less than 

other European combers 

• Very low oil consumption (very low wear in the 

transmission): 5 liters for 4 000 operating hours 

• Very good top comb self-cleaning due to the specially 

developed tooth shape, which prevents 

short fibers from wrapping around it 

• The slivers from the 8 combing heads can easily 

be threaded into the drafting system 

• High machine efficiency of up to 96% (E 76) due 

to trouble-free running behavior 

• Superior lap quality with mill-proven UNIlap E 32 

and OMEGAlap E 35 combing preparation. 

Output of up to 74 kg/h, uniformly good fiber selection, 

very low energy consumption, good, stable 

running behavior and high efficiency make the E 66/ 

E 76 combers extremely attractive. 9-106 • 

Product Management Combing 

Winterthur 

anja.knick@rieter.com 

11


PRODUCT NEWS 

new rsB-d 22 autoleveler drawframe: 

single-head autoleveling 

quality on two heads 

rieter is complementing its drawframe range with the rsB-d 22 double-head 

autoleveler drawframe featuring a maximum delivery speed of 

2 × 1 100 m/min. Its independent machine sides and autoleveling functions 

are a unique feature in a double-head drawframe. each head delivers 

exactly the same quality and output that are familiar from the rsB-d 40 

single-head drawframe. Further advantages are the reduced space requirements, 

low energy consumption and low capital investment. 

Fig. 1 New RSB-D 22 

double-head autoleveler 

drawframe featuring 

a maximum delivery 

speed of 2 ×1 100 

m/min. 

Fig. 2 Outstanding 

quality at both heads 

due to autoleveling 

functions that 

operate completely 

independently. 

Rieter was the first manufacturer to introduce the 

concept of the single-head autoleveler drawframe 

more than 25 years ago. This concept is impressive 

for its high autoleveling and thus sliver quality. 

superior sliver quality on two heads 

In the new RSB-D 22 double-head autoleveler drawframe 

(Fig. 1) Rieter combines the advantages of the 

single-head autoleveling concept with the benefits of 

a double-head drawframe: both sides of the machine 

and both autoleveling functions of the RSB-D 22 

operate completely independently of each other 

(Fig. 2). In terms of drive power there is therefore 

no connection and thus no mutual influencing of the 

autoleveling functions, as is the case in conventional 

double-head autoleveler drawframes. Single-head 

autoleveling quality is thus assured on both heads 

on the RSB-D 22. 

Besides the single-head autoleveling concept, the 

use of mill-proven RSB-D 40 modules and components 

also ensures, of course, that each head delivers 

exactly the same quality and output that are familiar 

from the RSB-D 40. Identical modules are sliver feed, 

autoleveling, drafting system, coiling and the two machine 

displays. 

Each side of the machine is equipped with an independent, 

linear can changer and 2 reserve cans. The 

empty cans are pushed in from the side between sliver 

feed and machine. After filling, the cans are ejected 

forwards. Available delivery can formats are 400 

to 600 mm in diameter with a maximum height of up 

to 1 220 mm. 

�igh productivity and low energy consumption 

The maximum delivery speed of the RSB-D 22 is 

2 × 1 100 m/min (RSB-D 22c: 2 × 550 m/min for combed 

cotton). In addition to delivery speed, production 

efficiency is also unique for a double-head drawframe: 

in the event of sliver breakage in one of the 

two sliver feeds or if a malfunction occurs, the other 

side of the machine continues to operate. While one 

can changer is operating, the other side of the machine 

can continue to produce independently of this.

Fig. 4 Mill-proven 

RSB-D 40 advantages 

on the RSB-D 22, 

e.g. CLEANcoil coiler 

for reduced cleaning 

effort. 

2.9 – 3.2 m 

Fig. 3 The RSB-D 22 

saves space and thus 

costs for building, 

air-conditioning and 

lighting. 

The production efficiency of the RSB-D 22 is thus on 

the level of the RSB-D 40, i.e. 10% to 15% higher 

than on conventional double-head drawframes. 

A joint extraction fan generates suction for both sides 

of the machine, which reduces energy consumption 

per kg of sliver by some 10%. Extraction intensity is 

individually adjustable on each side. 

5.6 m set into the floor 

6.7 m installed on the floor 

easy operation and high flexibility 

Conventional double-head drawframes are considerably 

restricted in terms of accessibility, operator 

convenience and occupational safety. The drawframe 

can only be operated from the front and personnel 

have to balance with their legs apart on very 

small steps. On the RSB-D 22 the operating platform 

positioned between the drafting system heads enables 

personnel to operate the machine comfortably 

and safely. The lateral operating platforms also facilitate 

all maintenance work. 

Due to the separate machine sides, different doublings, 

speeds and sliver weights can be run on the two heads. 

This enables carded and combed cotton to be processed 

side-by-side on an RSB-D 22, for example. If required, 

one machine side can also be operated singly. 


PRODUCT NEWS 

�ow space requirements 

The RSB-D 22 is also impressive as regards space requirements: 

machine width is only 3.2 m in the case 

of the RSB-D 22 and 2.9 m in the case of the RSB- 

D 22c. The machine can either be installed on the 

floor or set into the floor. In the latter case machine 

length is reduced by a good meter (Fig. 3). 

Rieter offers two versions for large feed cans up to 

1 000 mm in diameter: in addition to 2-row sliver 

feed for maximum accessibility of the cans, a version 

featuring cans arranged in 3 rows is now also 

available for the first time. The 3-row arrangement 

reduces the length of the roller feed and is offered 

exclusively by Rieter. 

Mill-proven advantages 

Mill-proven advantages from the D 40 generation are 

also incorporated in the RSB-D 22, of course, such as 

automatic setting of autoleveling actuation (AUTOset), 

coiler (CLEANcoil, Fig. 4), automatically lifting 

cleaner lips on the top rollers, top roller load relief 

during stoppages or lap formation, automatic filter 

cleaning, central lubricating bar and integrated sliver 

separation device. 9-107 • 

Jürgen Müller 

Head Product Management Drawframe 

Ingolstadt 

juergen.mueller@rieter.com 

13


PRODUCT NEWS 

swivel rather than contort! 

sWIVe�plate eVO is the answer 

The efficiency of older generations of drawframes is maintained at 

a high level in production with the technically simple but effective 

sWIVe�plate eVO upgrade. This investment pays for itself within a very 

short time due to simple maintenance, operator-friendliness and prevention 

of damage caused by improper handling. 

Fig. 1 New retrofit kit 

– the SWIVELplate EVO 

swiveling sliver funnel 

holder. 

Fig. 2 The new EVO 

adapter with the new 

RSB-D 40 sliver funnel 

on the left; the old 

adapter and sliver 

funnel on the right. 

The development of this swiveling sliver funnel 

holder was based on the experience of experts and 

customers who are very familiar with drawframe operation. 

The solution developed by Rieter is a product 

that makes the drawframe considerably more 

operator-friendly (Fig. 1). 

sWIVe�plate eVO – swiveling sliver funnel holder 

The SWIVELplate EVO adopts the operating principle 

of the swiveling sliver funnel holder on the current 

RSB-D 40 generation of drawframes. However, 

the design has been adapted in detail to the requirements 

of a retrofit kit for predecessor models. This 

neat solution is available as a retrofit for SB-D 10, 

SB-D 15, RSB-D 30C, RSB-D 35 and RSB-D 35c drawframes 

(without USTER SLIVERalarm). 

The core element of the SWIVELplate EVO is the 

swiveling center section of the sliver funnel plate, 

which improves access and safety. An integrated 

locking device defines the swiveling range of the 

center section and prevents it from swinging back 

inadvertently. The easy installation of the new sliver 

funnel holder can be performed very quickly by an 

in-house mechanic. 

Operating personnel can now remove sliver blockages 

and accumulations of fiber in the take-off disc 

zone quickly and easily – without the assistance of 

maintenance personnel. 

Improved accessibility helps to prevent damage to 

the take-off discs caused by improper handling during 

this process. 

The original swivel funnel holders and swivel funnels 

can continue to be used with the SWIVELplate 

EVO retrofit kit. Alternatively, the newly developed 

sliver funnels of the RSB-D 40, which offer a range 

of advantages, can be used. Both the new shape of 

the sliver funnel and a defined mounting prevent incorrect 

installation, so that the new sliver funnel is 

completely distortion-proof. An EVO adapter (Fig. 2) 

is supplied for the innovative SWIVELplate EVO sliver 

funnel holder in order to use the RSB-D 40 sliver 

funnel. 

SWIVELplate EVO improves operator-friendliness 

and extends the service life of valuable, technologically 

important components such as sliver funnels 

and take-off discs. These advantages and the considerably 

reduced maintenance effort make SWIVELplate 

EVO a useful and profitable investment. 9-105 • 

Jörg Feigl 

Marketing Parts 

Ingolstadt 

joerg.feigl@rieter.com

A 

“MA�IC e�e M1”: this magic eye 

sees everything 

White polypropylene, colored plastic fibers and foreign material. If the 

new “Magic EyE M1” supplementary module is incorporated in "T�e 

VIsIOn s�Ie�d DirEct Mpix", all these foreign particles in the cotton 

being processed are detected by means of two combined measuring methods 

and eliminated. 

Fig. 1 Colored 

foreign particles (A) 

and colored fibers 

(B) extracted by THE 

VISION SHIELD DirEct 

Mpix. Light-colored 

foreign particles (C) 

extracted by “Magic 

EyE M1”. 

Fig. 2 THE VISION 

SHIELD with “Magic EyE 

M1” incorporated. 

Raw cotton which is fed to the blowroom machines 

often contains impurities that have to be removed 

before the spinning process. A novel optical system 

is available to spinning mills in the shape of the 

Magic EyE M1 to enable pale, cotton-colored foreign 

particles, such as white polypropylene, to be detected 

in the blowroom. 

Two measuring methods in a single unit 

The Magic EyE can simply be integrated in THE VISION 

SHIELD DirEct Mpix without occupying any additional 

space. In order to detect foreign material THE VISION 

SHIELD measures color contrasts. This measuring 

system has its limitations in the case of pale foreign 

particles which are almost the same color as raw cotton. 

Alternative measuring methods have been tested, 

but these function only with optically brightened 

plastics, brightened cotton or polarized surfaces. 

The unique new measuring method of the Magic EyE 

M1 utilizes differences in optical refraction for measurement. 

This enables considerably more foreign 

particles to be removed (Fig. 1, C). 

B 

C 

silvano rufo 


PRODUCT NEWS 

Mode of operation of the Magic EyE M1 

The fiber material is fed freely in a current of air 

through THE VISION SHIELD and the Magic EyE M1. 

A special light source – “CoronaSpot” – is used in the 

Magic EyE M1. A scanning wheel distributes the light 

from the “CoronaSpot” onto the passing tufts. The reflected 

light is then measured and the data are analyzed 

in the integrated computer system. The foreign 

particles detected are then selectively extracted into 

a special container by means of a nozzle. 

easy to operate 

The Magic EyE M1 requires no learning time. It is 

ready to operate one minute after startup. Operation 

of the Magic EyE M1 is very easy and is integrated in 

THE VISION SHIELD. The operator sets the sensitivity 

of the measuring system at the control panel. The 

system always operates reliably, even if the degree of 

contamination varies. Jossi technology is the global 

leader in terms of the removal rate of foreign particles. 

More than 75% of foreign particles are removed 

with the Magic EyE M1, an excellent removal rate. 

Tried and tested system 

The Magic EyE M1 was successfully launched in 2008 

by Jossi Systems of Wängi (Switzerland) and is available 

exclusively as a retrofit on THE VISION SHIELD 

DirEct Mpix machine generation or as an option on 

new machines (Fig. 2). Numerous customers worldwide 

have already invested in this technology, which 

makes provision for future extensions, and are enthusiastic 

about its high efficiency and long service 

life and the further improvement in yarn quality. 

9-1<strong>04</strong> • 

Head Marketing Parts 

Winterthur 

silvano.rufo@rieter.com 

�ans speich 

Marketing Parts 

Winterthur 

hans.speich@rieter.com 

15


RIETER INSIDE 

“The rieter Manual of spinning”: 

a reference work of spinning 

know-how 

detailed understanding of technology and engineering provides the 

fuel for innovation and success in the <strong>textile</strong> industry. Only through a 

knowledge of relationships within and between the process stages can 

machine settings and thus end products be optimized in such a way as 

to guarantee success in the <strong>market</strong>place. The new, revised “rieter Manual 

of spinning” offers technical specialists, students and other interested 

parties a multi-volume reference work with a practical focus on 

the technology of short staple spinning. 

Fig. 1 Cover of the 

“Manual of Textile 

Technology”, published 

by The Textile Institute, 

Manchester. 

Fig. 2 Illustration 

from Vol. 4; 

Fig. 82: “Spinning 

geometry angles 

and dimensions.” 

Fig. 3 Formula 

from Vol. 1; Fig. 63: 

“Number of turns 

of twist in yarns of 

different thicknesses.” 

Rieter already produced the well-known standard 

work “Manual of Textile Technology” (Fig. 1) together 

with The Textile Institute, Manchester, in 

the 1980s. Several generations of <strong>textile</strong> specialists 

have acquired their knowledge through these 

volumes – known as the “blue books” – and still use 

these today as works of reference. 

development doesn’t stand still 

The <strong>textile</strong> industry has continued to develop rapidly 

since this compendium was published: machines 

have become more productive, process stages have 

been combined, and innovative production methods 

are opening up completely new opportunities. A new 

approach can also now be adopted as regards the 

design of the volumes’ contents, which consisted of 

hand-drawn illustrations and typewritten copy. 

shared knowledge 

As a systems supplier, Rieter has trained large numbers 

of customers and its own personnel in its inhouse 

Training Center, thus giving them a sound 

foundation for their future careers. Rieter sponsors 

a number of degree treatises by students worldwide 

each year. Sharing knowledge with customers, students 

and personnel is a tradition at Rieter! 

The new edition 

Rieter has now decided to present collected technology, 

engineering and process knowledge in a uniform 

way and make it accessible to third parties. 

A total revision has been undertaken, based on the 

works published earlier by Rieter together with The 

Textile Institute, Manchester. The project team – 

consisting of Rieter staff with many years of experience 

in <strong>textile</strong>s and a graphic artist – have digitized 

and colored all the copy and illustrations (Fig. 2 and 

Fig. 3) and combined current knowledge and technologies 

into “The Rieter Manual of Spinning”. 

The latest findings and the historical background are 

explained in text and colored illustrations. The multi-volume 

reference work includes basic knowledge 

of all short staple spinning processes and deals with 

technologies and methods established on the <strong>market</strong>, 

including those of Rieter’s competitors. 

2 

3 

h 

IS IF 

IK 

H 

δ 

S 

γ 

V 

dH 

L 

E 

B 

F 

R 

I 

IR 

D 

β 

IH 

Z 

II 

α 

G 

I 

B 

I 

III 

d I 

d II 

T 

T

Volume 1: 

“Technology of short-staple spinning” 

The first volume in the series contains the fundamental 

principles and thus the universally valid 

relationships of short staple spinning. The subsequent 

volumes are organized by machine or 

machine group. The fundamental technological 

principles have thus been separated from the 

machines and designs, which are undergoing 

continuous further development. 

source of supply 

The first six volumes of “The Rieter Manual of 

Spinning” are available in print (in English only) 

for purchase and can be obtained via Rieter sales 

engineers. 

Volume 2: 

“Blowroom & Carding” 


RIETER INSIDE 

The second volume deals in detail with the opening, 

cleaning, blending and carding of fiber raw 

materials and covers other aspects such as conditioning 

and the recycling of spinning mill 

waste. Other types of fiber are also considered 

in addition to the processing of cotton. Machine 

settings, material transport, the operation and 

maintenance of card clothing and automatic leveling 

systems are graphically explained. 

17


RIETER INSIDE 

Volume 3: 

“spinning Preparation” 

The third volume covers the technical and technological 

aspects of yarn production between the 

card and the ring spinning machine. The quality 

of the intermediate and end products depends to 

a great extent on these processes. The contents of 

this volume are therefore very important and are 

divided into three parts: combing (including preparation), 

drawframe and roving frame. 

Volume 4: 

“ring spinning” 

The fourth volume deals with the technical and 

technological aspects of ring spinning. Ring spinning 

is a very important process which has a direct 

impact on the quality of the end product. 

Ring spinning is still the absolute reference for 

comparison with other spinning processes when 

the properties of the yarns produced are being 

assessed.

Volume 5: 

“rotor spinning” 

The rotor spinning process was developed in the 

course of research focusing on the search for new 

spinning methods. Through continuous further development 

and major advances in spinning equipment 

and conditions, the rotor spinning process 

has been developed to the point where it is now 

almost impossible to distinguish rotor-spun from 

ring-spun yarns with the naked eye. Volume 5 contains 

in-depth information on the rotor spinning 

process and its properties. 

The electronic edition – “Rikipedia” – will be 

published on our website at www.rieter.com in 

the first quarter of <strong>2010</strong>. 9-108 • 

Volume 6: 

“Alternative spinning systems” 

Michel �elin 


RIETER INSIDE 

Alternative spinning systems are used to produce 

yarns that differ to a certain extent from ringspun 

yarn in terms of yarn properties and quality. 

In order to use alternative spinning processes for 

the right applications, a thorough understanding 

of these processes is needed. The volume entitled 

"Alternative Spinning Systems" describes the 

most important alternative spinning processes in 

detail and helps in selecting the correct spinning 

process. 

Project Manager Marketing SYS 

Winterthur 

michel.gelin@rieter.com 

19

www.rieter.com 

rieter Machine Works �td. 

Klosterstrasse 20 

CH-8406 Winterthur 

T +41 52 208 71 71 

F +41 52 208 83 20 

sales.sys@rieter.com 

rieter south America 

Alameda Rio Preto 

no. 101/165 

06460-050 Barueri 

Sao Paulo, Brazil 

T +55 11 4688 1617 

F +55 11 4688 1712 

rieter Ingolstadt �mb� 

Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse 84 

DE-85055 Ingolstadt 

T +49 841 95 36 01 

F +49 841 95 36 895 

rieter Corporation 

PO Box 4383 

BUS I 85 and SC 9 

Spartanburg, SC 29305 

United States of America 

T +1 864 5825466 

F +1 864 5851643 

rieter CZ s.r.o. 

Čs. armády 1181 

CZ-56215 Ústí nad Orlicí 

T +420 465 557 232 

F +420 465 557 226 

立达纺织机械(上海)有 

限公司 

中国上海娄山关路83号 

新虹桥中心大厦12楼 

邮编: 200336 

电话: +86 21 6236 8013 

传真: +86 21 6236 8012 

Rieter's economical combing line: RSB-D 22 drawframe, OMEGAlap E 35 combing preparation, E 76 comber and RSB-D 40 autoleveler drawframe. 

rieter India Pvt. �td. 

3rd Floor, Bldg No. 9, Tower ”B“ 

DLF Cyber City, Phase III 

IN-122 002 Gurgaon 

T +91 124 4500800 

F +91 124 4500850 

rieter Textile Machinery 

Trade and service �td. 

Tekstilkent Ticaret Merkezi 

Turgut Reis Mahallesi, 

A 23 Blok No 31 

TR-34235 Esenler/Istanbul 

T +90 212 438 47 64 

F +90 212 438 47 30

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