ART kazenergyBoth in theRussian Empireand the SovietUnion, theCaspian Sea wasconsidered themain barrel of fishof the state. Andit seemed to beinexhaustible.scendants of which are the current Kazakhadays.Cultural and geographical phenomenon,whose name is Mangyshlak, deserves to betreated carefully not talked about in vain.So, let us take the course with the CaspianSea.Shagreen AreaThe Caspian Sea can be attributed with asafe conscience to the most mysterious watersof the earth. Due to the fact that the scientistsstill cannot sort out its geographicalstatus, the Caspian politicians cannot divideit up. If the Caspian Sea is the lake, theyneed to share it equitably, if the lakes ...take it share and share alike!Besides, the Caspian has never had accuratemaps. Had not and will not have. Becauseits mapping is a permanently fatal process.The cup, which laps the Caspian water, hasvery easily expandable coast, on one handand on the other represents the pool constantlyfilled with several pipes (the largestin diameter is the Volga, 75% of debit) withvery unstable pressure.That is why, a priori impossible, for exampleto determine not only the exact coastlines,to catch surfaced (or drowned) island, butalso to establish the area of adjacent administrativeentities, for example of Mangistauregion. When a lot of water (like today) - theland is not enough. When on the contrary,then ... Today, Kazakhstan is growing by itsCaspian lands!I remember the Great Khazaria by Gumilev.And not without reason our archaeologists’conjecture on the fact that in the era of regression(and the fluctuations permanentlyaccompanied the history of the CaspianSea), there was a land bridge from the PeninsulaTub-Karagan to the shores of the Volga.The caravans of ships, but not the sea,land ships walked across this bridge. Camelswith bales "floated" from Central Asia toEastern Europe right on the sea. Like on dryground. Straight through the eye of a needle.In the Mouth of the CaspianBut the cup of the Caspian Sea for manymillennia remains empty. To get the levelof the World Ocean it stably lack 20 to 30meters. Thus, our pool is also deprived of avisible pipe through which pours out. Butif it is just flowed in, then the level wouldgrow125 - 135 centimeters per year and wewould have long had own Atlantis (Caspis)in the form of almost all Atyrau and mostpart of Aktau region. However, this does nothappen. Why?Simply because the Caspian Sea has a trickynatural counter regulator in the form ofshallow East Bay which are filled with thegrowth of its level and work as huge naturalevaporators. Kara-Bogaz-Gol, Dead Kultuk,Kaidak - the greater the level of the CaspianSea, the greater the area of of the evaporatingsurface, the more water turns intosteam. And no need in runoff - the water isabsorbed in the "mouth" at such a rate thatthe first explorers of the Caspian Sea (for example,Karelin in 1856), long thought beforethey went in in their fragile boats.The water evaporates, and what remains?Salt! Salt, which is spread from here acrossthe world. And here, in the Caspian sinceancient times it was used for the good of thecause. For fish salting. The two salt lakesturn pink on the road from Fort-Shevchenkoto Bautino. They say that when people livedhere in another way, this salty fish, notablefor its excellent flavour, shipped from hereeven to the royal table, in St. Petersburg. Itwas the pride!Hole in the fish barrelBoth in the Russian Empire and the SovietUnion, the Caspian Sea was consideredthe main barrel of fish of the state. And itseemed to be inexhaustible. It lasted untilthe 50s of the last century. And, interestinglythe Caspian fish was an exclusive product.Like most other inhabitants of the Caspian,65% of which in 1937 were considered endemic.And 43 of the 73 species of the fish ofthe Caspian had a commercial value.Then the fish began to fade and grow shallow.Initially somewhere gone were beluga,monsters fish, whose viability determined bythe fishermen, sitting astride, to show thatthe feet do not reach the ground. Then othersturgeon slowly began to be lost. Gradually,fishing masters started fishing herring, thensardines, which became the most favoritepeople's snack during the development of socialism.Back in the 1950s the sprat expeditionwent to the sea numbering 160 vessels!But today they are in the past106 № 5 (<strong>49</strong>), <strong>2011</strong>
One of the centers of fishing in the Caspianis located in Bautino in those early times,when Bautin Alexey himself had not yet laiddown his life in a violent battle for the happinessof the working people and a peacefulsettlement of fishermen called the village ofNikolayev.Right there in Tyubkaragan bay, was themain base of the Caspian sea-dogs slaughterhousefor those courageous people whoused to come out with the sticks in wintersto the breeding grounds, and beat the defenseless"Matiukha" with newborns "Belka".They beat to a frazzle, until hands beganfalling off. Seals fight was carried out inthe North Caspian Sea for a century, mainlyin the islands named the Seal islands. Skinswere used in many furriers’ crafts, and fat -in the food industry and as a lubricant.Nikolayev's merchant fishermen (for example,the famous Zachary Dubskoy) wereknown as widely as those Soviet leaders ofcooperatives and state farms, factories andbases who had come to replace them. Thesuccession, despite the social upheaval inthe early XX century, was still preserved.The builders of communism utmost usedthe nationalized means of production of thecapitalists, such as boats, ice-houses, smokefat-melting plants. And they themselves, atfirst differed little from their predecessors.Only fish in the Caspian Sea did not wishto be imbued with the grandeur of the economicplans of the workers' and peasants. Itgrew small and thin.Today, little is reminiscent of the gloriouspast of these fishing areas, except for thoserusty remains of the fishing fleet beautifullyblazing in the turquoise waves of theTyubkaragan bay that serve as the roost forphlegmatic cormorants. Along the shores ofthe Seal islands that is being served as reserve,there are lying... No, not seals! Hugevats used for melting the seal fat.The Caspian “Black Gold”However, some fish in the Caspian Sea isstill alive. Despite the fact that legal fishinghas disappeared from the shores ofMangyshlak, here in Bautino, is a divisionof guard-ships and boats, whose main taskis the fight against poachers. And on Kulaly,the largest island of the Seal archipelago,day and night the land guards of our borderskeep the watch on a single Kazakhstan islandpost.Constantly on duty, there is a dozen of soldierswith a pair of officers. Being replacedthe desertpeninsula andadjacent Ustyurt,which on closerinspection turnsout to be the sea.KAZENERGY107