Organization and Performance of Cotton Sectors in Africa ... - infoDev
Organization and Performance of Cotton Sectors in Africa ... - infoDev
Organization and Performance of Cotton Sectors in Africa ... - infoDev
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Table 2.2 Fiber Properties <strong>of</strong> the Cotlook A Index, Typical <strong>Africa</strong>nUpl<strong>and</strong> <strong>Cotton</strong>, <strong>and</strong> Top Quality L<strong>in</strong>t for Combed YarnsFiber propertyCotlook A <strong>in</strong>dexTypical <strong>Africa</strong>nupl<strong>and</strong> cottonGrade Middl<strong>in</strong>g—white Strict low middl<strong>in</strong>gto good middl<strong>in</strong>gStaple length1 3/32 <strong>in</strong>ches(27.8 mm)1 1/6 to 1 3/16<strong>in</strong>ches (27 to30.2 mm)L<strong>in</strong>t for r<strong>in</strong>g spuncombed yarnsStrict middl<strong>in</strong>g—white1 1/8 <strong>in</strong>ches(28.6 mm)Micronaire 3.5 to 4.9 3.5 to 4.5 3.8 to 4.2Fiber strength 25 to 30 grams 27 to 32 grams more than 30 gramsper texper texper texSource: Authors’ estimates based on <strong>in</strong>terviews.Note: A tex unit is equal to the weight <strong>in</strong> grams <strong>of</strong> 1,000 meters <strong>of</strong> fiber. The strengthreported is the force <strong>in</strong> grams required to break a bundle <strong>of</strong> fibers one tex unit <strong>in</strong> size.dem<strong>and</strong>s a lower variance <strong>in</strong> fiber properties, notably greater uniformity <strong>of</strong>length <strong>and</strong> lower short fiber content.Only Fiber<strong>Cotton</strong> prices are not solely determ<strong>in</strong>ed by <strong>in</strong>tr<strong>in</strong>sic fiber properties <strong>and</strong> l<strong>in</strong>tcleanl<strong>in</strong>ess. Contam<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> l<strong>in</strong>t by nonvegetal foreign matter is the mostserious problem confront<strong>in</strong>g cotton sp<strong>in</strong>ners. Contam<strong>in</strong>ated cotton causes disruptions<strong>in</strong> the sp<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g process, which <strong>in</strong>creases the cost <strong>of</strong> sp<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>reduces the quality <strong>of</strong> yarn <strong>and</strong> end products. There are no cost-effectivemeans <strong>of</strong> remov<strong>in</strong>g contam<strong>in</strong>ation once it is present <strong>in</strong> yarn or fabric. As aresult, contam<strong>in</strong>ation leads to the downgrad<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> end products or even torejection <strong>of</strong> an entire lot.<strong>Cotton</strong> that is contam<strong>in</strong>ated, or that is suspected <strong>of</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g contam<strong>in</strong>atedbecause <strong>of</strong> its orig<strong>in</strong>, can only be sold at a substantial discount to compensatethe user for <strong>in</strong>spect<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> clean<strong>in</strong>g the cotton before sp<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g. Price differentialsfor cotton with the same fiber characteristics range from 5 percent to30 percent, depend<strong>in</strong>g on the degree <strong>of</strong> perceived contam<strong>in</strong>ation by extraneousmatter, stick<strong>in</strong>ess, <strong>and</strong> seed coat fragments. These discounts are usuallyapplied <strong>in</strong>discrim<strong>in</strong>ately to all cotton orig<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g from an area or a countryconsidered to be affected by contam<strong>in</strong>ation.Contam<strong>in</strong>ation by foreign matter is more serious with h<strong>and</strong>picked cotton.Seed cotton picked by h<strong>and</strong> is cleaner, <strong>and</strong> the fiber obta<strong>in</strong>ed has fewer neps <strong>and</strong>a lower short fiber content than cotton picked by mach<strong>in</strong>e, which must becleaned more vigorously because it has more vegetative residues. H<strong>and</strong>pickedcotton should, therefore, normally be purchased at a premium over mach<strong>in</strong>epicked cotton. However, h<strong>and</strong>picked seed cotton <strong>of</strong>ten gets contam<strong>in</strong>ated dur<strong>in</strong>gMARKET CONTEXT 23