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Organization and Performance of Cotton Sectors in Africa ... - infoDev

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ecame a contentious issue dur<strong>in</strong>g the current trade round under the auspices<strong>of</strong> the Doha Development Agenda. The cotton subsidy issue was further highlightedfollow<strong>in</strong>g the move by four WCA cotton produc<strong>in</strong>g countries (Ben<strong>in</strong>,Burk<strong>in</strong>a Faso, Chad, <strong>and</strong> Mali) to dem<strong>and</strong> compensation for the lower pricesreceived because <strong>of</strong> subsidies. Brazil also brought a case to the World Trade<strong>Organization</strong> (WTO) aga<strong>in</strong>st the United States, claim<strong>in</strong>g, among other issues,that subsidies reduce world prices <strong>and</strong> hence hurt Brazil’s export earn<strong>in</strong>gs.Follow<strong>in</strong>g the WTO’s rul<strong>in</strong>g, the United States removed the Step 2 paymentpart <strong>of</strong> its cotton program (amount<strong>in</strong>g to about 15 percent <strong>of</strong> its subsidies).The WCA cotton producers, however, have not received any compensation.The fate <strong>of</strong> rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g U.S. subsidies is currently under discussion with<strong>in</strong> theframework <strong>of</strong> the U.S. Farm Bill. Although there may be some reduction <strong>in</strong>U.S. subsidies, it is unlikely that they will be elim<strong>in</strong>ated altogether.INCREASINGLY STRINGENT DEMAND FOR QUALITY FIBERLike all commodities, cotton is differentiated by quality parameters for thepurposes <strong>of</strong> trade. <strong>Cotton</strong> fiber (l<strong>in</strong>t) is the raw material for the textile manufacturerwho transforms cotton <strong>in</strong>to yarn <strong>and</strong> then <strong>in</strong>to fabric for apparel,household goods, or <strong>in</strong>dustrial products. <strong>Cotton</strong> quality requirements canvary substantially depend<strong>in</strong>g on the f<strong>in</strong>al product, <strong>and</strong> the quality differencesaffect the price that manufacturers are will<strong>in</strong>g to pay <strong>and</strong> the value they canget from the cotton l<strong>in</strong>t. Price differentials vary widely, with a ratio <strong>of</strong> about1:4 between the lowest <strong>and</strong> the highest quality l<strong>in</strong>t. 17Increas<strong>in</strong>gly, quality dem<strong>and</strong>s are be<strong>in</strong>g placed on the entire textile supplycha<strong>in</strong>, from the raw material to end products. Chemical fiber performance hasbecome a benchmark for cotton sp<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g. The ma<strong>in</strong> challenge for cotton is tobe able to compete with chemical fibers, ma<strong>in</strong>ly polyester, on both price <strong>and</strong>quality. Chemical fibers are generally easier to process, more versatile, <strong>and</strong>stronger than cotton fiber, <strong>and</strong> modern textile <strong>in</strong>dustry mach<strong>in</strong>ery requiresfrom cotton fiber the same characteristics <strong>of</strong> cleanl<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>and</strong> homogeneity asthose <strong>of</strong>fered by artificial fibers.In short, the <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly str<strong>in</strong>gent dem<strong>and</strong> for quality cotton can be articulated<strong>in</strong> the follow<strong>in</strong>g motto: “fiber, only fiber, but more than just fiber.” Therest <strong>of</strong> this section elaborates on each aspect <strong>of</strong> this challenge.FiberBecause cotton is a natural <strong>and</strong> seasonal product, its fiber properties, its cleanl<strong>in</strong>ess<strong>and</strong> contam<strong>in</strong>ation, <strong>and</strong> the homogeneity <strong>of</strong> its characteristics can varygreatly as a result <strong>of</strong> genetic, environmental, harvest<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> g<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g factors.Such variability impacts process<strong>in</strong>g performance, costs, <strong>and</strong> quality throughoutthe cotton textile cha<strong>in</strong>. Fiber properties primarily depend on varieties grown,agro-climatic conditions, <strong>and</strong> crop management practices. The cleanl<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> l<strong>in</strong>tMARKET CONTEXT 21

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