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When I first came to Iceland, a majority of theroads outside the capital and most townsor villages were gravel or worse. Icelanders haddiscovered the many wonders and secrets of theircountry, but few visitors learned much about them.It’s a testament to the Icelanders vision and personalinitiative that, today, all round the country, you willfind tourist facilities and organisations that open uppractically every aspect of the country to the gaze ofthe visitors from abroad, who have increased manyfoldin number over the intervening years.The country has moved swiftly to build up aninfrastructure to make visiting Iceland a muchmore rewarding experience. It has lost little of itsmystique, however. It was not called ‘Europe’s bestkept secret’ for nothing and, even for the frequentFreed om in Fashion...................................................4Focus on Fashion at Kraum.......................................6Real Chocolate!............................................................8An Icelandic Icon.......................................................10The Artist and his Bleeding Heart..................14-15We’ll meet in the Pool........................................16-17Refinement in Reykjavik..........................................18A Viking’s Valhalla.....................................................19The Happiest Pub in Town......................................19Gifts from The Viking.........................................20-21Mountaineering made possible......................22-23Best spice in town.....................................................25Vikings at the Harbour.............................................25Harbourside Sushi.....................................................26Bright summer nights .............................................26The Brave get the Best.............................................28Jewels & Art by the Sea............................................29Eat Thai in Iceland.....................................................29Volcano House Rocks...............................................30Life of Whales ............................................................32Best way to see the city ..........................................34A Taste of the Good Life...........................................36Leather designer........................................................36The Aesthetic Wonderland.....................................37Reykjavik’s Living Museum....................................38Tours Tailored to Taste.............................................40Drive a Superjeep .....................................................40The Warmth of Álafoss............................................ 44visitor or resident, there is always something newto discover. It’s a country that does not reveal itssecrets to the casual observer but to those whotake the challenge to dig them out.Today, there are tour companies who will teachyou more in one day as you enjoy a chauffeurdrivenride to many of the hidden as well as themost popular sights. Such is the importance givento opening up the secrets to visitors that it takes athorough university course to train guides.Hotels, guesthouses and campsites have sprungup all around the country, each offering a differentperspective on their part of the country. You can eventravel right up through the middle of the country,passing famous sights like Geysir and Gullfoss, theless-travelled, but spectacular Kerlingafjöll, crossingConnoisseur’s Delight..............................................45Your own piece of Iceland.......................................46Travel in Touch............................................................47A New Memory Each Month..................................47Duty Free .....................................................................48Sail with Charcot........................................................49The Art of Bacalao in Grindavík.............................51The Heart of Reykjanes............................................52Life is Never Dull Here..............................................53The Fisherman’s Friend............................................54A Different Iceland....................................................54Rare Sights of Reykjanes.................................. 56-57I wish I could stay longer.........................................58Harbour Dining in Old Keflavik..............................58A Cultural Metropolis...............................................59They Love Life...................................................... 60-61Eat like the locals.......................................................62Opening in Akranes..................................................63Deep in Natural Wonders........................................64Home in the West......................................................66A Touch of the International..................................67Iceland’s first settler.................................................68Adventure at Sea.......................................................69Trolling the Westfjords ...........................................70A Nature Paradise......................................................71Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel.............................71The Wonderful wild northwest.......................72-73ContentsGateway to the Vatnsnes Peninsula ....................76Eat Icelandic................................................................76A River runs through it.............................................78Sleep by the Riverside..............................................80A Legend comes to Life...........................................81Soothsayer’s Mountain............................................82A Summer Garden for the Birds............................83Horses, History and Nature.............................84-85Skagafjörður’s Treasure Trove.........................86-87Traditional Pastries and Local Food.....................88Hólar in Hjaltadal.......................................................89Eating at the End of the World..............................91Outdoor Life to the Full...........................................92At the Top of the World............................................93Hear the Singing........................................................93Riding the North .......................................................94Celebrating the Heart of Mývatn................... 96-97Best in Birdwatching......................................... 98-99A Home Away from Home................................... 100TV Chef comes home to cook..............................101The Biggest Bones You’ll Ever See!.................... 102Memories of the Old.............................................. 104East Iceland......................................................108-109Neat as a pin .............................................................110Cowshed Corner......................................................110At the Eastern Crossroads.....................................112The French Connection ........................................112rivers and winding your way between mountainranges in the rugged highlands of the interior. Smallthis country may be, but it possesses Europe’s largestglacier and most powerful river. Today, guides cantake you there in safety.Nonetheless, the natural forces are not to betrifled with. Weather can change in a matterof moments under the jet stream. Many roadscan only be driven with 4x4’s or Superjeeps.We have our share of volcanos here, too, if youjust think back a couple of years. But it all addsto the challenge and excitement of this youngcountry on fire in the basement.On the surface, the beauty of the nature isbreathtaking. The birdlife brings both professionaland amateur birdwatchers and photographers.Now hikers and cyclists, campers and caravannersare unravelling more of the precious secrets thiscountry possesses. We hope you will find your ownto take home something special with you.Comfortable Hotel Bláfell.....................................113What One Woman Can Do ...........................114-115Trendy Seyðisfjörður..............................................116Dip into the splendour...........................................117In the Realm Vatnajökull.......................................118Eating well in Höfn..................................................119On Top of the World ...............................................121Discover an Ice-Blue World................................. 122Icewear takes on Víkurprjón............................... 123True Comfort Food .................................................124Idyllic Days at Þakgil ............................................. 125Sitting Pretty.............................................................126Embraced by Summer’s Light..............................127Skogar Folk and Transport Museum................. 128Þjóðveldisbærinn................................................... 129Viking Tours of the Westman Islands............... 130Getting there is part of the fun...........................131Within The Golden Circle......................................132Down Into the Depths............................................132A Taste of Wild and Sweet.....................................133Kerlingarfjöll the untouched beauty........ 135-136Take a Break at the Waterfall............................... 136Slakki Zoo & play centre........................................137Eat At The Source.................................................... 138A diverse community............................................ 138Southern Fantasies................................................ 140Forget the guide books.........................................142enjoyicelandicnaturePublisherLand og Saga ehf.Síðamúli 1 • 108 Reykjavíkinfo@icelandictimes.comEditor and General ManagerEinar Th. Thorsteinssoneinar@icelandictimes.comSales and MarketingAnna Margrét Bjarnadóttiranna@icelandictimes.comDelphine Brioisdelphine@icelandictimes.comSigurlaug Ragnarsdóttirsigurlaug@icelandictimes.comHulda Davidsdóttirhulda@icelandictimes.comCreditsArticles written byAna DumbaraAndrew Scott FortuneAnna Margrét BjarnadóttirÁsta ÞorleifsdóttirDelphine BrioisHrafnhildur ÞórhallsdóttirJóhann Óli HilmarssonJúlíana BjörnsdóttirKelly BaumannNanna Hlín HalldórsdóttirMarie ValgardssonStefán Helgi ValssonSteingerður SteinarsdóttirVignir Andri GuðmundssonEnglish Editor & proofreaderAndrew Scott Fortuneandrew@icelandictimes.comvideo & TV departmentEinar Th. ThorsteinssonGabriel RutenbergSigurlaug RagnarsdóttirFront cover photoSkógafoss, South Iceland byJóhannes Frank JóhannessonLayout & DesignLand og Saga Layout TeamIcelandic languageIcelandic is one of the European rootlanguages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except inforeign words. However, It still containssome letters not found in most otherlanguages. This basic list provides ageneral idea of their sounds, usingfamiliar words rather than phonetics.CharacteráæðþPronunciationLike ‘ow’ in ‘cow’Like the personal pronoun ‘I’Like ‘th’ in ‘that’Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though thecontent of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content.Copyright © June, 2012 Land og saga ehf. All rights reservedOddi Ecolabelled Printing CompanyHow to make use of QR codesUse your QR code reader application on your smartphone oriPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can bedownloaded free for all makes of smartphonesIcelandic TimesSíðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík+354 578 5800info@icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.comFloWerinG PlantSand FernS oF icelandHörður Kristinssonthis is a book for anyone interested in nature,specialist and nonspecialist alike. organisedby flower colour and other distinguishingcharacteristics, it’s very easy to use.Pantanir/HoW to order:Sími/Phone: +354 575 5600netfang/e-mail: forlagid@forlagid.isWebsite: www.forlagid.isicelandic Bird Guidejóhann Óli Hilmarssona new book on the icelandic bird fauna. this is abird identification guide with photographs of all thebirds that breed in iceland, winter visitors, summervisitors, passage migrants and vagrants.Forlagið publishingBræðraborgarstígur 7101 reykjavik, iceland2www.icelandictimes.comwww.forlagid.is

Focus on Fashion at KraumIcelandic designers are developing fashion for men and womenIceland is a country with inspiration isits blood. It pours out through an everincreasing number of talented designs foreverything from the humble pancake panto the latest developments in fish skin tomake top quality men and women’s shoes.When Kraum opened in the renovatedoldest building in Reykjavik, a group ofjust 30 designers presented their ideas.Their number has swelled to more than 300from all over the country and the range ofproducts has multiplied in like manner.Designed with Men in mindWomen’s clothing and accessories founda natural home in the shop but the latestdevelopment is for men’s designer clothingto join them. Starting with a range ofshirts, named after the ravens of Norse god,Odinn, they look really stylish. A range ofpants complements them, making an idealensemble for business or partying.A Mecca for the uniqueThe Vikings were renowned for theirengineering and craftsmanship skills. Thatheritage has not just been passed down totheir descendents, but amplified over the yearsso that the range of unique ideas and designs,skillfully using both common and unusualmaterials in totally new ways, is unsurpassed.Whether it is living jewellery or a stool that isa light or a shaggy lambskin seat, a butterflyformed by the play of light and shadow or apair of fishskin shoes, it is immediately obviousthat it is the work of a thoughtful, inspireddesigner, creating something never otherwisefound in our mass-produced world.If you are looking for a memorable gift forsomeone special, the choice from over 300designers may seem a little overwhelmingbut the way the shop is laid out, it is easyand quick to find what you’re looking for—or even find something you didn’t know youwere looking for which fits the bill moreprecisely than you could have hoped.6 www.icelandictimes.comShipping is no problem. Being designerproducts, they are designed to be easilyshipped. Kraum will handle the shippingfor you if you’re too heavily laden to take itwith your flight. If you forgot something, itis easy to order from their website, too.Finding KraumLook for the oldest building in Reykjavikand you will find Kraum. Originally builtby the Icelandic reformer, Skúli Magnússon,as a factory to produce goods for his needycountrymen, it is found by Ingólfstorg, thesquare down a little way from the Post Office.–asfKraumAðalstræti 10 • 101 Reykjavík+354 517 7797kraum@kraum.iswww.kraum.is

Real Chocolate!Once you have tasted the real thing, you’ll never want to go backNestled in the oldest house in Reykjaviksits the greatest temptation to asweet tooth. Built originally as a factoryfor workers to produce desperately neededgoods, today it provides a service to the tastebuds. Here you will find Hafliði’s creationsand you will quickly understand why sofew ever reach a visitor’s home countryuntouched. This is temptation at its best.In any of the world’s supermarkets, youwill find chocolate of all kinds—except thereal handmade variety. Hafliði not onlymakes delicious truffles with a variety ofdelicious fillings but he also makes anumber of unique chocolate varieties—and I really do mean unique.Caviar never tasted so goodFor instance, when you buy canned fish orcaviar, you’ll usually find it sold in an ovalor round tin. In the Aðalstræti boutique,you’ll find similar oval tins—but thecontents have nothing to do with the sea.Reminiscent only of caviar by their ballshape, the contents are a special chocolatemix in dark, milk or white chocolate.Eruptions of flavourIceland is famous—or notorious—for itsvolcanos and here, on the shelves, you willfind a range of different flavoured and filledchocolate volcanos, aptly named after theirgeological name-sakes, but with an explosionof flavour rather than fire. That sounds prettyviolent but it’s actually more of an adventureinto the world of the senses that simply doesn’texist in supermarket chocolate.Gifts of loveHere, you become the connoisseur of both thesubtle and the extremes of taste. It’s one of thosetimes best shared with those closest to you. Forsuch moments, Hafliði has the ideal gift: a setof rich, red hearts filled with a seductive flavourthat will make the time memorable.Step into the world of chocolateShopping for chocolate in this special houseis an experience in itself. Here, you get tosee different elements of the chocolatemakingprocess and get a sense of whatis involved in bringing you Hafliði’s finalcreations. It’s an easy place to find. There’s asquare right at the end of Reykjavík’s mainshopping street in the centre of town, andit’s on the far side, Aðalstræti 10.–asfMosfellsbakaríHáholti 13-15 • 270 Mosfellsbæ+354 566 6145mosbak@mosbak.iswww.mosfellsbakari.is8 www.icelandictimes.com

More Iceland for less moneyAn Icelandic IconThe Heart of Reykjavik CityThe spacious but intimate Café Paris isa café and a restaurant known for firstclassservice and bistro-style meals, primarilymade using fresh local produce, in the heart ofthe city centre, Austurvöllur. Austurvöllur isIceland’s Champ du Mars, where locals relaxon warm summer afternoons, overlooked bythe Icelandic House of Parliament, and theCathedral Church, Dómkirkjan.Its long history and esteemed reputationhas contributed to it being one of the mostsuccessful restaurants and cafés in all ofIceland. This year, Café Paris celebrates itstwentieth anniversary and guests were askedfor their feedback to help the managementcontinue to offer the highest standards.In this, its anniversary year, Café Parishas a professional staff providing greatservice, knowledgeable about the menu,wine, cocktail and coffee selections andthe mouth-watering desserts.A Landmark for allCafé Paris is a city landmark meaningdifferent things to different people. It’s aplace where artists contemplate in solitude,where writers busily document theirthoughts on a laptop, where politiciansescape heated debates and share a quietmoment together, where young adultsgiggle and smile over Mocha and sweetenedLatte, where young mothers share a sliceof a homemade chocolate cake and creamycoffee, where students gather to celebrateand where hungry travellers come toexperience the Icelandic bistro culture.In summer, the tables outdoors facingthe Parliament are always packed.Sheltered from the North Atlantic breeze,days of sunshine in the very heart of thecity are hard to resist, and the well-trainedand experienced staff make sure no onegoes hungry or thirsty.Eat in styleThere is nothing like the house white wine boiledmussels and a glass of Pinot Grigio on a beautifulsummer’s day, or a succulent burger with a bunfresh out of the oven and ice-cold beer.For dessert, the house speciality is a Frenchchocolate cake—freshly baked in house—andbest served with deluxe coffee. The well keptsecret recipe is legendary in Reykjavík.10 www.icelandictimes.comA Weekend HotspotCome the weekend, Café Paris turns intoa sophisticated bar with live jazz musicplaying from 11 pm. The atmosphere is aunique fusion of a Parisian jazz club anda sophisticated Icelandic wine bar. Thewide variety of imaginative cocktails is thecreation of ambitious bartenders who aimto impress with their blend of rich flavours.Café Paris caters to all ages andnationalities. Café Paris may seem to be aParisian café in Reykjavík but local culinarytraditions and fresh Icelandic produce are atthe heart of this Reykjavík bistro.Café Paris–JBAusturstræti 14 •101 Reykjavík+354 551 1020cafeparis@cafeparis.iswww.cafeparis.isBlue Lagoon SchedulePickup at hotel in Reykjavik upon request09:00 / 10:30 / 12:30 / 14:45 / 16:45The South Coast - Skógafoss - VíkOur tour takes us along the south shore and on to thecharming village of Vík. Highlights on this tour: WaterfallsSkógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. The basalt columns atsandy beach of Reynis- fjara and the glacier Sólheimajökull,where you can touch the ice. We drive along thevolcano Eyjafjallajökull, last eruption in 2010.Pick up time: Mon/Wed/Fri at 08:00Duration: 10 hoursProfessional english guidanceBlue Lagoon to Reykjavik12:30 / 14:00* / 16:00 / 18:00 / 20:30 * Via Keflavik AirportBlue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport12:30 / 14:00 / 21:00**Grand Golden Circle** From 15. June – 15. Sept.Highlights visited: The crater Kerið, the farming districts inthe south, Faxi waterfall and the spectacular Geysir. Thewaterfall Gullfoss, the national park Thingvellir, includingthe Rift valley and the Rock of law which was the site ofthe first Viking parliament.Time for lunch at Geysir (not incl. in price).Pick up time: Daily at 08:00Duration: 8 hoursProfessional english guidancePlease notice: You can join The Blue Lagoon evening tour after arrival.Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of IcelandPlease book in advance.Be ready in front of your hotel.Pickup can take up to 30 min.Tel: +354 511 2600 E-mail: bustravel@bustravel.is bustravel.isGolden Circle AfternoonTo airport passengers;we keep your luggage duringyour Blue Lagoon visit.Highlights visited: The national park Thingvellir,the waterfall Gullfoss, the spectacular Geysir and thevolcanic crater Kerið.Pick up time: Tue/Thu/Sat/Sun at 12:30Duration: 5-6 hoursProfessional english guidance

The Nordic house offers a tour with world famous architect Alvar Aalto(portrayed by an actor), where guests are taken through the history of theNordic House, introduced to the design and history of the master himself.Come and experience an architectural gem right in the heart of the city.Tuesdays–Fridays at 11pm, June, July and August.The tour is in english and costs 10€.See preview of the tourNordic House Sturlugata 5 101 Reykjavík Tel. 5517030 www.norraenahusid.isfacebook.com/norraenahusid

The Artist &his Bleeding HeartA look into the life and emotions of Ásmundur SveinssonOne of the more interesting exhibitionsin Reykjavík city this year is ‘The FireWithin’ by Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982), one of Iceland’s most innovativeartists in the twentieth century.The exhibition is held in Ásmundarsafn,one of the three facilities belonging to theReykjavík Art Museum, and the formerresidence of Ásmundur Sveinsson that hebuilt with his bare hands. The exhibitionbegan on 5 th May runs until 14 th April 2013,and exhibition manager Kristín Guðnadóttirand Public Programme Manager, KristínDagmar Jóhannesdóttir explained about theartist and the idea behind ‘The Fire Within’.Ásmundur Sveinsson returned torural Iceland in 1929, the year the GreatDepression swept across the world, afterresiding in the heart of European culture—in glamorous cities like Paris and Stockholm.Ásmundur began building his futurehome in Sigtún on the rural borders of anexpanding city. In the museum lobby, theconstruction history is traced from the rawsketches in 1942 to its completion in 1950.‘The Fire Within’ is the portrayal ofÁsmundur’s personal sorrows and joysand his interest in the great space race ofin the 1960’s. The exhibition opened witha symbolic performance by two youngchildren, the grandchildren of RannveigPálmadóttir whom, as a child, Ásmundurtook under his wing and introduced to theworld of art by asking her to fetch a pail ofwater, soap and a cloth and wash the feetof the sculptures in his garden, now knownas Sculpture Park. Her grandson andgranddaughter performed the same ritualas she had done, slowly and respectfully.The exhibition itself is divided into threecentral themes each enhanced with rich andsymbolic wall paintings and intense lightning.The first theme is the ‘Garden’, forwhich the inner wall in the Crescent andexhibition space was painted green. Thetheme celebrates his love and admiration ofwomen. In many of his works, the maternalrepresentation of womanhood prevailsbut in the garden, the woman is an eroticbut a tender lover and she is celebrated assuch. ‘Man and Woman’ is a symbolic piecewrought in red clay to underline her raweroticism and tenderness.The second theme is the ‘Battlefield’, forwhich the outer walls of the Crescent andexhibition space are painted in dark red. Thebattlefield is life itself and portrays the artist’sbleeding heart and his sorrows in life. ‘BlackClouds’ is a dark-gray concrete and obsidianpiece in which a voluptuous but barrenwoman figure with swollen breasts looksdown on the void in her empty embrace.Ásmundur survived the two great warsof the twentieth century and several worksin the exhibition are representative of hisexperiences both from before and afterWWII, when he travelled to the mainlandof Europe and witnessed the devastation ofunthinkable cruelty.The third, and the most expansive themeis the ‘Yearning for Space’. Influenced by thegreat space race in the late fifties and sixties,Ásmundur’s rich imagination gave birth topieces such as ‘Flying Saucers’, ‘The LastMigratory Bird’, ‘Harmony of the Spheres’ and‘Yearning for Space’, all located in the Pyramid.The centre of the theme however is inthe blue Dome, a stairway away from themuseum lobby. The three pieces are smallin scale but direct the eye to the very centreof the dome where voices travel far and ringloudly in the lobby. The mood is capturedwith a growing sense of losing one’s balance,a sensation that runs through the body as onereturns to the white-walled lobby.–jbOpening hoursfrom 10 am to 5 pm daily from 1 st May to30 th September, and 1 pm to 5 pm from 1 stOctober to 30 th April.ÁsmundarasafnSigtúni • 105 Reykjavík+354 553 2155artmuseum@reykjavik.iswww.artmuseum.is14 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com15

© Stefan Helgi ValssonWe’ll meet in the PoolLaugardalslaug–the most popular swimming pool in ReykjavikSwimming in one of Reykjavik’s sevengeothermal swimming pools and theunique Ylströnd geothermal beach is veryinvigorating. The pools, which are open allyear, attract nearly 2 million visitors andfor a good reason! Enjoy soaking in thewarm water originating from a geothermaldrill hole within the city limits.Cool like a poolReykjavik’s swimming pools are definitelycool—as in hip. The water in the main poolis about 29° Celsius / 83° Fahrenheit whichis quite comfortable. In warmer countriespeople jump into the pool to cool off—here in Iceland, it is exactly the opposite.You want to jump in to keep warm! Thechildren’s pool is even warmer than themain pool and if that is not warm enough,then you have 7 hot tubs to choose fromranging in temperature from 37°C to 43°C.The largest hot tub in Laugardalslaugswimming pool has space for 50 people.Reykjavik’s most popular poolLaugardalslaug Olympic size swimmingpool is the largest and most popular pool inIceland. Originally built in 1968 and sincerenovated periodically, it was visited by750,000 people in 2011. The main pool hasseveral 50 m lanes for casual swimming,exercise and competition. There is an© Stefan Helgi Valssonindoor pool for training and competition,a children’s pool with slightly warmer waterthan the main pool, 3 children’s waterslides, a wipe-out-style challenge, 7 hottubs of various temperatures and a steambath. In addition, it is possible to order amassage prior to your visit.New at the pool in 2012A saltwater hot tub just opened inLaugardalslaug. It is the first one of itskind in Iceland. The saltwater comes froma drill hole near the sea on the northernside of the Reykjavik peninsula, about onekilometre from the pool. The saltwater iscold when it comes from the ground butit is heated to 40°C. Children love thenew wipe-out style ‘iceberg challenge’which consists of a mesh of ropes overheadand iceberg-like floats in the water. Thechallenge is to walk on the icebergs overa distance of 7 m without falling into thewater. Finally, the tallest waterslide atLaugardalslaug swimming pool has beenrevamped and now has LED-lights in theceiling for a part of the ride.Great place to meet the localsSwimming pools and hot tubs are animportant meeting place for local peopleof all ages. Many of the most frequentvisitors come to the pool first and foremostto socialise rather to exercise. Theytypically come to the pool on a certainday of the week and time of day whenthey know their friends are there, too.Because nearly everyone in Iceland enjoysgoing to the pool you might bump intoIceland’s most famous singer, the mayorof Reykjavik, pop stars, TV-personalities,actors, members of parliament, universitylecturers and students.Pool etiquetteIt is considered very important to showernaked and wash thoroughly before enteringthe pool for hygiene reasons. Visitors whodon’t conform may have one of the staff, oreven guests ask them to do so. Most peopleleave their towel behind in a special areanear the showers while they go into thepool. Bath robes and sandals are hardlyever seen around pools but people with longhair are expected to wear a shower cap. Beconsiderate to other swimmers. Try notto swim in a lane with faster swimmers sothey won’t have to overtake you. When itlooks like you’re going to swim into a personyou’re supposed to veer to the right.Great water qualityThe water in Reykjavik’s swimming poolsis of the highest quality. It comes fromdrill holes in three different areas, in andnear Reykjavik. The quality of the water isinspected four times a day by the pool staffand four times a year by independent healthand safety inspectors. The clean naturalgeothermal water and regular inspectionensures the highest water quality possible.Laugardalslaug opens at 06:30 in the morningand closes at 22:00 at night on week days insummer. Saturdays and Sundays it is open from8 in the morning. The price in 2012 is 500 kr. foradults and 120 kr. for children under the age of18. Disabled and senior citizens go free.Laugardalslaug16 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 17–shvSundlaugarvegur • 104 Reykjavík+354 411 5100laugardalslaug@itr.iswww.swimminginiceland.com© Oddur Albertson

massive wood tables, youcan easily imagine yourself as a Viking.Refinement in ReykjavikEinar Ben brings style and class to diningEinar Ben is one of a select fewrestaurants in the highly competitiveReykjavik scene, where new, trendy placescome and go on a monthly basis, that hasfound its way into the Icelandic psycheand has been able to maintain the delicatebalance of class, comfort and top-rate foodthat inspires customers to return.Discreet and TastefulUpon entering the refined hall on the secondfloor of a century-old gentry’s townhouse,it is easy to see why Einar Ben has becomea part of Reykjavik’s culture. It is free ofpretense and excess whilst offering one ofthe best dining experiences in town.The interiors are elegantly decorated,honouring the building’s rich history andwhen walking around the restaurant, youfeel you’re passing through a home, instead ofgarish or bare and minimalistic dining halls.The restaurant is, in fact, the formerhome of one of Iceland’s greatest heroes,after whom it is named. Einar Ben wasa poet and pioneer who personified thedreams and ambitions of Icelanders inthe early 20th century.You’ll also notice the quiet, professional,yet friendly staff who seem to take pridein catering to their visitors, as opposedto rushing in and out as many payingcustomers as possible in one night.Classic Dishes With a TwistAll of this is a pleasant addition to whatmatters the most: the meals. Philip Harrison,Einar Ben’s English chef, takes great pride inonly using the freshest Icelandic ingredients.When I dropped by Einar Ben’s on a cosySunday evening, a new delivery of gamereindeer had just arrived in Reykjavik.“Our dishes are based on the classics:fish and lamb. We’re proud of our menuand have no interest in following trends,which would ultimately compromise whatEinar Ben stands for. The menu’s subtitleof ‘pure Icelandic’ refers to its ingredients,whereas the dishes are also based onFrench and Danish traditions. We prideourselves on healthy portions and heartysauces”, says owner Jóhann. That doesn’tprevent innovation, however, and therestaurant has just developed a new menuthat builds on their experience.For starters, we were treated to a deliciouslangoustine & pumpkin soup, whichset the mood for what was to come. TheArctic char served with a celeriac pureé,mashed potatoes and spinach confirmedthat Jóhann’s claims of Einar Ben’s seafoodexpertise were not exaggerated – trulyexquisite. The lamb loin served with crushedpotatoes and parsnip pureé was cooked toperfection and shows what he means whenhe says that Icelandic lamb is the best inthe world when cooked correctly. The skyrand ice cream desserts are not to be missed:true delicacies made with unique Icelandicingredients, including freshly pickedblueberries and rhubarb.Unwind at the Red BarThe ‘red bar’ on the top floor is ideal forfollowing a top class meal with a drink ina tranquil atmosphere. Those looking fora place to start a night out on the townshould try the red bar as well.–asfEinar BenVeltusundi 1 • 101 Reykjavik+354 511 5090einarben@einarben.iswww.einarben.isImages by Gabriel RutenbergA Viking’s ValhallaFood, Drink and Entertainment at the Viking TavernWelcome to the Land of the Vikings!You may not see their long boatsin the harbour today, but there’s one inVikingakráin’s restaurant. With their loveof food and drink, is it any wonder that ithas been converted to the bar for this Vikingdining hall, set in the loft of one of the oldbuildings in the centre of Reykjavik.The Happiest Pub in TownWhat the Vikings brought from Ireland: The DublinerThe country is Iceland. The clients areinternational. The beer is cold. Themusic is live. The atmosphere is totallyCeltic. This is the Irish pub that everyonecomes to Iceland to find. This is the happiestpub in town. This is the Dubliner.As you walk through the entrance gate inthe high wooden stockade, you feel you’reentering a Viking hall.Every night, diners are regaled byentertainment in true Viking tradition withactors, poets or storytellers. The experienceis so authentic that, as you enjoy theirhospitality with food and drinks, sitting atNow you know why the Vikings stoppedoff in Ireland on their way here. They knewa good thing when they saw it. They swipedall the beautiful girls and the best beer andsome of the men. Everyone knows what theIrish are like with some beer inside them.Give them a call to book your dinner, as thisis a popular venue. It’s the way to be totallyimmersed in the life and culture of the Vikings- and will doubtless give you a few surprises andsomething to tell people when you get home.After all, how many people encounter Vikingsand live to tell the tale?Víkingakráin–asfNaustunum 1 • 101 Reykjavík+354 551 1717vikingakrain@vikingakrain.iswww. vikingakrain.isOut come the greatest singers and musicians,the most spellbinding story-tellers, the mosteloquent poets…Need I say more?You can meet them yourself in thisdowntown pub where pleasure is just apint away. And if you fancy yourself asa singer, go on Thursdays for their openmic evenings. You’ll find the audiencevery sympathetic, won’t yer now?Dubliner–asfNaustunum 1 • 101 Reykjavík+354 527 323218 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 19joidub@gmail.comwww.dubliner.is

Gifts fromThe VikingTake home a part of Iceland with you for posterityThe etymology of ‘souvenir’ lies inthe similar French word meaning ‘toremember’, ‘to recall’. For almost sixty years,travellers have been buying their gifts andsouvenirs from ‘The Viking’.The Tailor from the NorthSigurður Guðmundsson opened the firststore in the ’50s in the northern town ofAkureyri. In the beginning, the shop soldsouvenirs in the summer and mainly woodentoys in the winter. Sigurður was a tailor andthat’s where the tradition of selling localproducts began, a tradition continuingto the present day. Tinna BerglindGuðmundsdóttir, Sigurður’s granddaughterand shop manager has helped in the storesince she was 7 years old.Symbols of IcelandIce, Vikings and volcanos. Big symbolsof Iceland. “We have one of the biggestcollections of gifts and souvenirs in Iceland”,says Sigurður Guðmundsson, the shop owner.The six stores around the country offergreat gift options to fit everyone’s budget:photo albums or books about Vikings andtheir sagas; traditional and warm lopapeysa(wool sweaters); Yule lads or troll statues;cool T-shirt designs by ‘The Viking’. Forsomething more fancy, there is the silverand lava stone jewellery or a fine set of wineglasses of Icelandic design. Chilldren wouldlove to play with a puffin stuffed toy. All theproducts are provided by local producers.Feel the warmth of IcelandThe traditional knitted sweaters started tobecome popular in the 1950’s. The yarn used,lopi, is made from 100% natural Icelandicsheep wool, which has the property of keepingyou warm, letting your skin breath and beingwaterproof at the same time. It is believed thatthe origin of ‘peysa’ comes from the Frenchword ‘paysan’ (peasant). As French sailorsarrived in Iceland they pointed at the farmersand said, “Paysan!” and the Icelanders thoughtthey were referring to their wool sweaters.‘The Viking’ collaborates with localproducers and has a big collection of sweatersin different sizes and colours along with thevery popular hats and fluffy woollen mittens.Six locations around the countryFive years ago, the family decided toexpand their stores. Now, there are threein Reykjavík at Hafnarstæti 3 and on thecity’s main shopping street, Laugavegur 1.A new shop will open at Laugavegur 4 inthe middle of June. In their home town,of Akureyri, you can find them again onHafnarstræti and down by the old harbourand in the West Fjörds, in the town ofÍsafjörður. The family business is makinga full circle going back to Akureyri. In thebeginning of June, Cafe Björk will open inthe one of the most beautiful locations intown, the Botanical Garden. With a terraceand surrounded by flowers, this is a must ifyou happen to be in Akureyri.Forget about taxesDon’t forget to have your taxesrefunded at the airport or in the lastport where your ship stops in Iceland.You’ll get 15% back. And here’s anothertip: you can get discounts with ‘TheViking’ coupons from the Visitor’sGuide handbook!–abLaugarvegur 1 • 101 Reykjavik+354 551125020 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com21The Vikinginfo@theviking.comwww.theviking.com

Mountaineeringmade possibleEnjoy the beauty of the glaciers with Icelandic Mountain GuidesAwards and recognitions2006: Iceland Air PioneerAward for the innovation anddevelopment of Glacier Walks.2009: The EnvironmentalAward from the IcelandicTourist Board for environmentalpolicy and awareness2010: The Icelandic Travel IndustryAssociation (SAF) EducationAward for education andcontinuous training of guides2010: The Icelandic Travel IndustryAssociation Innovation Awardfor the innovation anddevelopment of Glacier Walks.The company has also beennominated for the Nordic Natureand Environmental Prize 2011.Standing on top of a glacier is a goalyou’d imagine only experiencedmountain climbers are able to achieve,but it’s actually simpler than you think—it’s even achievable in a day’s trip fromReykjavik. But one cannot, of course, walksafely on top of a treacherous glacier withoutthe help of experienced guides who havemapped out every crack in the ice and knowthe difference a single misstep can make.For over eighteen years Icelandic MountainGuides have been finding ways to makethese imposing phenomena reachable to allthose who wish to explore them.Step Into a Different WorldIcelandic Mountain Guides offer day tours fromReykjavik to the Sólheimajökull glacier, as wellas several day tours from Skaftafell NationalPark, which connects to Europe’s largestglacier, Vatnajökull. But why would anyonewant to visit such a foreign and unforgivinglandscape? For Leifur Örn Svavarsson, guideand co-founder of Icelandic Mountain Guides,who has scaled the glaciers hundreds of timesand never tires of it, the answer is simple: “It islike stepping into a different world. Standingon top of pure ice, hearing the creaks and flowof water underneath, seeing the caves andcrevasses, gets you as close to the essence ofIceland as is possible. We have been doing itsince we were young and simply felt that youcan never fully experience Iceland withouttrying it, which is why we established IcelandicMountain Guides,” says Leifur.of a glacier with us”, says Leifur. Witheverything from family friendly glacierwalks to quite challenging hikes throughIceland’s most scenic destinations, includingHvannadalshnúkur (Iceland’s highest peak),Eyjafjallajökull volcano, Hrútsfjallstindarand Fimmvörðuháls. It is true to say that alloutdoor enthusiasts can find something totheir liking with Icelandic Mountain Guides.Setting the bar for safetyBefore taking inexperienced mountaineers upto these glittering jewels, they had to make surethat all possible safety measures were taken,which is why they’ve implemented a strenuoustraining programme for all their guides. Theeducational programme entails 27 days of directtraining and exams, followed by over 100 daysunder direct and indirect supervision, includingcomprehensive first-aid courses. These stepshave paid off, as Icelandic Mountain Guides‘saccident free history and the awards they’ve wonfor education and safety demonstrate.Not just iceIcelandic Mountain Guides offer a widerange of outdoor and adventure tours inboth Iceland and Greenland with everythingfrom short day tours to overnight tours andexpeditions. Find more information aboutday tours at the Icelandic Travel Market atBankastræti 2 in Reykjavik or their offices inSkógar and Skaftafell National Park.–vagMountainguidesGlacier Walks are easy & accessible to allThe range of tours is designed to fit theneeds of Iceland’s different visitors. “If youcan walk up stairs, you can reach a partBankastræti 2 • 101 Reykjavik+354 587 9999mountainguides@mountainguides.iswww.mountainguides.is22 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com23

Best spice in townThai Express gives you a healthy bite from the exotic EastThai Express in Mosfellsbær, with theirauthentic Thai cooking and reasonableprices, has been an instant success. It wasa great addition to the local life and is aperfect stop for lunch or dinner for peoplepassing through town who are looking for analternative to the typical fast food meal. It’sa nice place to sit and relax in, yet has quickservice and tasty, healthy food. Its also a greatchoice for the growing number of touristsstaying in Mosfellsbær since what could benicer on a beautiful summer night than tohave a picnic with your take away!The menu has all the classic Thai favouritessuch as rich curries and stir-fry dishes,fried rice and noodles with either meat orvegetables, deep-fried dishes such as shrimpand spring rolls with an assortment of saucesto choose from, like the classic satay and thedelicious mango and coriander. As an extra healthy choice they offer freshly pressedjuice from fruit and vegetables and proteinshakes with berries. They also have a specialchildren’s menu and various offers and guestscan buy beer and wine with their meal.Thai Express is located on first floorin the small shopping centre ofMosfellsbær, Kjarninn.Thai Express–hþImages by Gabriel Rutenberg23Þverholti 2 • 270 Mosfellsbæ+354 552 6666thaiexpress@thaiexpress.iswww.thaiexpress.is222(‘sign post’) for someone to find their way or theHelm of Awe, to protect and keep from harm.3Thai RestaurantAuthentic thai foodat reasonableprices21Thoughtful giftsLatest additions are the bone jewellery fromDjupavogur, East Iceland. The earrings andmedallions are made from natural materialslike sheep’s horn or stones. Or pick one ofthe hand painted cards with Odin’s ravens.7Nature and volcano films;Eyjafjallajökull, Grímsvötn,Hekla, WestmanIslands, Surtseyand more …8910Icelandic art anddesign1213151718Vikings at the HarbourViking clothes made with soulJenný Kolsöe opened The Vikingloft tomake something different. Each patternis unique! Made with a lot of love, theseclothes will keep you warm, complimentyour figure and...protect you.Protected by the RunesMany outfits are inspired from Vikingtimes: natural materials, comfortable cloaks,simple and elegantlines, long headedhoodies (the longerthe tail, the richer youwould have been). The Vikings needed practicalclothing, so the cut and pattern are simple. “Youcan do so much with it”, says Jenný. She canembroider any decorative motif you want onyour garment—like the rune symbol VegvísirA reading from Hrafna the VölvaYou can also explore the ancient craft of readingin runes. Hrafna the Völva will lead you infinding answers to your questions. Find moreabout yourself and your future and learn moreabout Viking ways in a shop with soul.–adThe VikingloftGeirsgata 7A • 101 Reykjavik+354 862 1082jkolsoe@simnet.iswww.hotelshopping.comwww.icelandictimes.com 25

Harbourside SushiSushismiðjan-Midori, a Top Class Restaurant at the Old HarbourIn one of the bright greenbuildings down at the oldharbour is Sushismiðjan, a brightand busy sushi restaurant.Serving a range of tasty sushidishes with sake, wine or beer,this is a very popular eatingand meeting place.Sitting on the patio ona warm summer day, enjoying a delicioussushi and the view over the harbour toMount Esja across the bay, this is the life!For freshness, the harbour is the place tobe. The combination of Icelandic fish andsushi cannot be beaten for quality andflavour - and its presentation is top class.The menu offers Makis, Nigirisand Sashimis, along with a mixedvegetable sushi and different children’sdishes. Japanese noodles with chicken,vegetables or Tiger prawns, fish or misosoup, seafood or beef salad round outthe main courses. For desert, there ischocolate cake with cream, ice creamand fresh berry smoothies.The restaurant is open from 11:30am to 11 pm. Take-away meals canbe ordered by phone or on the web.They cater for companies, parties andlunches, too.Sushismiðjan–asfGeirsgötu 3 • 101 Reykjavik+354 517 3366sushismidjan@sushismidjan.iswww.sushismidjan.isBright summer nightsThe Coffee Hot Spot of Reykjavik at the Old HarbourCafé Haiti is an unpretentious littlecafé that serves up a great cup ofcoffee, from beans roasted fresh everymorning right on the premises. Here youcan start your day with an excellent latte orcappuccino, along with a croissant or two;for this is one of the few places in the areathat opens for breakfast - 8.30 to be precise.The relaxed atmosphere is also a favouritewith locals for lunch - quiche, fish andvegetable soups served with fresh bread.More fish dishes are slated to be added to themenu - Icelandic plokkfiskur (a traditionalIcelandic thick fish stew), a delicious codtartare, smoked salmon on toast, and a goodsolid ‘catch of the day’ dish.This summer, Café Haiti will beextending its menu to include authenticFrench crepes, both savoury and sweet.Served on the terrace, I can just image thatlovely warm aroma of hot crepes, that willundoubtedly draw in the crowds. As theevening sun sets across Faxafloi Bay, besure to pop in to Café Haiti on a weekendnight to catch the sounds of live musicby local singers and musicians who offera variety of both homegrown and moreexotic sounds of distant lands. A definitemust this summer in Reykjavik.Café Haiti–emvGeirsgata 7a • 101 Reykjavík+354 588 8484kaffi@cafe-haiti.comwww.cafe-haiti.com26 www.icelandictimes.com

Jewels & Art by the SeaSædís hand crafts jewellery in her studio at the Old HarbourThe Brave get the BestThe Sea Baron’s Fish Meals attract visitors from all over the worldIceland has many ‘different’ foodswhich have their roots in seafaringhistory. The Vikings came up with manynovel ways of preserving their foods andtheir traditions continue to this day.Some of these foods sound unappealing,to say the least, and it takes the adventuroussoul to step out and try them. Iceland is forthe adventurous and they reap the benefitsof the brave. The timid stick to burgers!A True FishermanA former fisherman and Coast Guard chef,Kjartan Halldórsson, also known as the SeaBaron, is the master of unusual fish dishes.His lobster soup, for example, has gainedfame around the world, earning it the titleof ‘the world’s greatest lobster soup’. Whilehe doesn’t reveal the secrets of his recipe,that doesn’t stop his restaurant from beingfilled every day with afficianados.He entered the restaurant business bychance. One day, when standing by his boxesof fish, some foreign visitors asked if he couldprepare some fish for them. Spotting anopportunity, he ran to the nearest hardwarestore to buy a grill—and was in business! Hisvisitors were invited to dine in his shop in thisimprobable restaurant. Word quickly spreadand soon he was shifting his boxes out of theway to make room for tables and chairs.He took the unusual and created deliciousmeals that no-one else had thought oftrying. He took old recipes, some ofwhich sounded revolting, and from them,made meals that have established hisreputation around the world.Kjartan’s restaurant is popular with thefishermen who sailed for many years fromReykjavik. It is filled with memorabiliadonated by old sea captains and theirfamilies, that fill it with a character allits own. Handmade model sailing boats,pictures of ships of the past and stuffedbirds fill the second floor’s walls, wheregroups of up to 35 can celebrate togetherand where the fishermen used to sleepwhen coming to land.Dining as a Seafaring ExperienceEating at the polished tables, sitting oncushioned fish barrels, surrounded byparaphernalia of the sea, is an experiencethat will leave you with both goodmemories, a satisfied appetite—andperhaps, a rather shocked mind that youwould actually have eaten fermented fishand that it tasted so, so good.For centuries, jewellery has had a specialplace in the heart. An object of art andbeauty, a gift of love to be treasured. Tofind craftsman-made jewellery is a rarity intoday’s mass-produced world.Sædís creates designs that range from themost feminine to pieces for both men andwomen. They evoke images of Iceland’s mostdistinct symbols, nature and pure water.Sædís, whose name means ‘Goddess ofthe Sea’, works with all the precious metals,which she combines with gemstones, blue,appropriately, being her favourite and Icelandicstones like the lava stone. Her respect for theenvironment and a strong emphasis on qualityis evident in all aspects of her work. She usesgreen practices in choosing her elaboratelyhandcrafted materials and fair trade stones.Custom-made BeautySædís also makes pieces embodying thewishes of clients using whatever metalthey request, making a unique andprecious gift from the heart.She also sells quality fish leather products andfine art pieces by significant Icelandic artists.You’ll find her creations for sale onlineat saedis.etsy.com and through her website,where you can order from abroad but if you’rein Reykjavík, a visit to her open workshopand gallery is a worthwhile experience.–asfSædís the JewellerGeirsgata 5b • 101 Reykjavík+354 555 6087saedis@saedis.iswww.saedisbauer.comSmoked in SucculenceA true pioneer, Kjartan is always comingup new ideas. Besides the smoked eel,Kjartan has taken to smoking mackerel andthe special grey halibut, the delicious flatfish with both eyes on top. His techniqueimbibes the fish with a delicious flavour thathas to be tasted to be believed.–asfSægreifinnGeirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík+354 553 1500info@saegreifinn.iswww.saegreifinn.isEat Thai in IcelandDelicious Downtown Thai Dishes at Krua ThaiDown by the Old Harbour in the centreof Reykjavik is a restaurant that servessuch good Thai food that visitors fromThailand and groups know to go there. Allthe key ingredients are imported straight fromThailand to be cooked by experienced Thaichefs. This results in that genuine experienceof a truly delicious meal, which is so enjoyable.A full range of Thai meals with a widerange of options is available, each being madeto order and freshly cooked on the spot.The restaurant itself lends authenticityto the experience, being decorated intraditional Thai style.Take-away and home delivery are available.There is a second branch close to the Smáralindshopping centre, one in Grafavogur and one inAkureyri, called Krua Síam.After having lived many years in Thailand, Ican attest to the range and taste of Krua Thai’sdishes. It is definitely my restaurant of choicewhen dining out, Thai food being my favourite.Krua Thai–asfTryggvagötu 14 • 101 Reykjavík+354 561 0039kruathai@kruathai.iswww.kruathai.is28 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 29

Keeping Iceland warmsince 1926Volcano House RocksNew food, new music and new toursIf this is your first time in Iceland, avisit to Volcano House will provide youwith a splendid overview of how volcanicactivity has moulded and shaped Icelandicsociety and its impact on the country asa whole. Icelanders, after all, have alwayshad to deal with ever unpredictablemother nature, who usually has the lastword in the matter of how one plans one’sday or, as the case may be, one’s life.Cinema on FireIn the heart of Volcano House lies a smallpaying cinema that features two 20-minutedocumentaries chronicling two of Iceland’smost notorious volcanoes of the last 40 years.The first film takes you back to the 1973eruption in the Westman Islands. Thereal protagonists in this volcanic dramahowever, are the Icelanders themselves, whomanaged to evacuate all 5,000 residentsfrom the island in just a few hours in themiddle of that fateful night.The second film covers the recent eruptionof Fimmvörðuháls and Eyjafjallajökull,in all its fiery splendour and glory, whichwill undoubtedly leave you with a betterunderstanding of what brought most ofEurope’s air traffic to a standstill just a fewyears ago. The accompanying dramaticmusic and breathtaking aerial photographycontributes all the more to this rivetingdocumentary’s impact and power.Café with all the best ingredientsVolcano House is also known as a late-nightcafé where you can order a proper espressoor cappuccino, teas, hot chocolate, or try acold Icelandic beer or a shot of Brennivín.Time-honoured Icelandic cakes served withwhipped cream and skyr desserts are baked onthe premises. Check out the new menu whichincludes hearty and warming plokkfiskur (acreamy white fish stew with potatoes) or thelangoustine (mini-lobster) soup, both servedwith traditional rye bread. There’s even thatcurious combination of cheese toast with jam,that has been a much loved national snack forgenerations of Icelanders.A little night music at Volcano HouseMusical evenings of Icelandic folk tunesas well as more modern sounds by variouslocal musicians are planned for weekendevenings between June and August. Popin for a listen and browse Volcano House’sinteresting hands-on collection of volcanicash and rock, semi-precious stones from EastIceland and volcano-themed souvenirs.Book a Volcano TourLastly, now that your curiosity is piqued,its time to book a tour to see any one ofIceland’s magnificent volcanoes. VolcanoHouse has recently teamed up with leadingtour guides and agencies to offer you avariety of volcano tours around the countrythat you can book right at Volcano House.–emvVolcano HouseTryggvagata 11 • 101 Reykjavik+354 555 1900info@volcanohouse.iswww.volcanohouse.isAny experiencedtraveller will tell you:Do as the locals.Snæfell Jacket is the winner of theScandinavian Outdoor Award andthe soft goods ISPO Outdoor Award» magazine.66north.isJónsson & Le’macks • jl.is • s Í a30 www.icelandictimes.com

and thousands of whichhave already nested in these islands.The ‘Andrea’ is the biggest whale watchingship in Iceland; thus it is very stable, comfortableand—most importantly—has excellent viewingdecks, providing you with a great sailingexperience. Guests can have a nice cup of coffeeor hot chocolate indoors or borrow a sweater towear outdoors on colder days.Life of WhalesWatch whales, porpoises and dolphins from the ‘Andrea’Whales and humans coexist harmoniouslyin Faxaflói bay in these first sunny daysof summer. The whales have been playing andenjoying riding along Life of Whales’ ship‘Andrea’, while the humans enjoy the view ofthese magnificent animals.The whales by the shores of Iceland, arewithout a doubt, some of the most spectacularsights Iceland has to offer. Four types of whaleslive in Faxaflói bay, which makes them quiteaccessible from Reykjavík. Those species are:the Minke whales, White-Beaked Dolphins,Harbour Porpoises and Humpback Whales.Tour the bay on a stable shipLife of Whales is a small family company,which runs three tours a day from the oldharbour in Reykjavík, each one lasting threehours. In addition to the whalewatching,they visit the puffin islands in the bay,where one can easily see the peculiarpuffin among other seabirds, hundredsNotes from a guide’s diaryAccording to the guide’s diary to be found onLife of Whales website, the beginning of Junewas really exciting on the bay. One day, forexample, a minke whale stayed with the shipfor awhile during a thick fog, a descriptionone normally only encounters in mystic fairytales! Another entry tells of some harbourpurpoises competing with minke whales toshow off only ten metres from the ship infront of the eager human audience.Yet another entry tells of a playgroundof minkes, a group of five staying a secure60 metres distance from the ship, while agroup of three others dared to come muchcloser, surfacing at the same time in the samedirection. This same tour also witnessed somedolphins, mothers and calfs alike jumping outof the water and turning in the air. Whales arejust like us humans, some of them are moresuspicious, keeping their distance from the shipwhile others are more daring, playing along andperhaps even communicating with us!Make your visit completeStaring at the unbelievable sight of a whalesurfacing from the sea is something oneshould not miss while staying in Iceland.On board the ‘Andrea’, you are providedwith both the comfort and facilities toenjoy that experience to the fullest.–nhhLife of WhalesÆgisgarði 1 • 101 Reykjavík+354 562 2300hvalalif@hvalalif.iswww.hvalalif.is32 www.icelandictimes.com

ICELANDIC WOOL DESIGNBest way to see the cityReykjavik Bike Tours’ original way to see Reykjavik is also the bestIf you’re in good health and know how tobalance a bicycle, you’ll enjoy riding withone of Reykjavik Bike Tour’s entertainingand professional guides. They offer bicycletours and rentals in Reykjavik all year. Insummer, they also do day trips out of townin a minibus with a bicycle combination toplaces not to be missed.No. 1 on Trip AdvisorReykjavik Bike Tours has enjoyed topposition on the Trip Advisor social travellerwebsite for the past three years. It is Ursulaand Stefan’s family business, founded in2009. Travellers appreciate the friendlywelcome, knowledgeable guides, the outdooractivity and excellent quality bicycles.Classic Reykjavik Tour – 2.5 hrs / 7 kmThis tour is the perfect introduction to thecapital city of Iceland and is offered all year.You can expect to see some of the city’s hiddensecrets while learning about its history froma professional and enthusiastic local touristguide. You get to know what the city is all about– in terms of its history, best museums, bestrestaurants, current special events and much,much more. Perhaps the most important aspectof this tour, apart from the exercise, of course, isthe direct access to the local guide giving the tour.Holiday Bicycle TourReykjavik Bike Tours offers one scheduledtour in winter, and five scheduled tours insummer; two in the city, and three whichrequire the assistance of a minibus andtrailer. Combine all five and you’ve gotyourself a holiday bicycle tour.The two city tours are the ClassicReykjavik – 2.5 hrs / 7 km, and the Coastof Reykjavik – 2.5 hrs / 18 km. The Classictour has plenty of stops and is quite easy foranyone in good health. The Coast tour isalso fairly easy but covers more than twicethe distance of the Classic tour.The three tours that involve the use of aminibus and trailer are: Golden Circle &Bike – 8 hrs / 25 km; Westman Isles & Bike– 9 hrs / 11 km and Blue Lagoon & Bike – 8hrs / 18 km. For more information, pleasevisit Reykjavik Bike Tour’s website.Ursula and Stefan love what theydo and receive every visitor with afriendly smile.–shvReykjavik Bike ToursÆgisgarður 7 • 101 Reykjavík+354 694 8956bike@icelandbike.comwww.icelandbike.com34 www.icelandictimes.comGeysir Bistro & Bar Aðalstræti 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 4300 www.geysirbistrobar.isSHOP / WORKSHOP SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 6A 101 REYKJAVÍK ICELAND TEL 562 6999 / 698 3413MARIALOVISA.COM

A Taste of the Good LifeBringing French and Icelandic cuisine together in Þrír FrakkarOn a little corner in the little big city in theNorth is a small haven for the food lover.Behind the beautiful rouge exterior of ÞrírFrakkar með Úlfar is a romantic dining room,small and intimate, like a French bistro in theParisian Saint Michel, yet rich in Icelandicheritage through chef Úlfar Eysteinsson’sartful fusion of French and Icelandic cuisineusing primarily fresh Icelandic produce.leather designerLadies handbags, earrings and necklacesQuality Icelandic design and leatherhandcraft is much sought after. “Myfirst leather design was a handbag paintedwith colourful artwork and patterns,”says Guðrún Stefánsdóttir, a successfulindependent architect who found a secondcareer in creative leather designs. Guðrúndesigns leather handbags and now she’sadded necklaces and earrings to her Ark ArtSpecialising in fresh fish and knownfor his superb skills in creating richflavours and a tender texture to seafood,Úlfar has earned a reputation as one ofIceland’s most skilled chefs, marryinglocal traditions and fine French cuisine.Úlfar’s list of prestigious clientele is longand President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson isa regular customer, ordering take away toaccessory collection. “I wanted to use the leathercut-offs for something useful, when I came upthe presidential residenceweekly and occasionally dining in-house.Úlfar Eysteinsson and family bought therestaurant in 1989 and opened in the very lastdays of the beer prohibition. Úlfar kept thepeculiar name, a name with dual reference toa long trench coat and the previous owners,two Frenchmen and a Frenchman’s wife.Þrír Frakkar með Úlfar is truly oneof Reykjavík’s hidden gems where finedining and Icelandic family values cometogether in a feast for the palate!Þrír Frakkar–jbBaldursgata 14 • 101 Reykjavik+354 552 3939frakkar@islandia.iswww.3frakkar.comwith the idea to use them to make jewellery—earrings and necklaces.”Guðrún’s Ark Art leather jewellery isrecognisable by her use of thin leatherrings or squares and use of colours. It isa sophisticated yet simple design, skilfullyusing geometric shapes and colours.Guðrún graduated from the RoyalSchool of Architecture in Denmark in1986. After working at an architect’s office,she started her own business. “I’ve workedon some amazing projects, ranging fromlarge buildings to single family homes. Myfavourite projects are those where I designeverything from A-Z for private homes.Those projects would typically involve thehouse and interior design, the landscapingaround the house and the furniture inside.”The Ark Art collection is available atthe National Art Gallery, Sædís jewelleryshop at Reykjavik’s Old Harbour anddirectly from Guðrún.Arkart–nhhDragháls 10 • 110 Reykjavík+354 551 5533arkgunna@simnet.iswww.arkart.isThe Aesthetic WonderlandThe little Christmas shop that is festive all year roundAnne Helen, owner of ‘The LittleChristmas Shop’ on Reykjavik’s mainshopping street, Laugarvegur, is what youmight call a ‘one woman wonder’. Whenshe lost her job in tourism ten years ago, shedecided it was time for a change and turnedto doing what she does better than most ofus; making the world a prettier place, oneChristmas ball at a time.City Car Rentallocated in downtown ReykjavikWe are a professional car rental servicelocated right in the centre of Reykjavik.Whether for business or leisure, we havejust the car to fit your needs and budget.Bookings can be made directly with us orthrough your hotel’s front desk. We willbe there to pick you up and drop you offor you can also drop off the key at yourhotel’s reception. To ensure that youget what you really want, reserve aheadof time online. Tour around Iceland andenjoy Icelandic hospitality.Snorrabraut 29 • 105 Reykjavík +354 771 4200info@citycarrental.is www.citycarrental.isIn the Land of Eternal ChristmasAnne Helen, a genuine aesthete, says she hasalways had somewhat of a Christmas frenzyand an intense passion for things of beauty.She never goes for anything average buthunts for things of quality that truly standout. Though she imports merchandise fromall over Europe, her ambition is to specialisein Icelandic handiwork and ornaments. Shealready has an extensive collection for sale,most made exclusively for her by artists, eachhaving a distinctive approach and working inmaterials as different as wool, glass and clay. Inaddition to customary Christmas ornaments,she includes local folklore figures, like thethirteen Santas and the Christmas Cat.Anne Helen loves is to tell customersabout Icelandic Christmas traditions.Visitors often stop by simply because they’ve16 Seaters / 250 euroRenault Master9 Seaters / 200 euroToyota Hi-AceHyundai H1heard of her hospitality and the shop’sfriendly atmosphere. They rarely leave emptyhanded. After all, placing an Icelandic Santaon your Christmas tree every year is a greatway to remember your visit to Iceland.Summer opening from June:9 - 21 every dayLitla Jólabúðin–hÞJeeps 4X4 / 150 euroSuzuki Grand VitaraSanta FeLaugarvegi 8 • Reykjavík+354 552 2412nonenoneSmall Cars / 75 euroToyota Yaris • Kia PicantoAygo • Daihatsu36 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 37

Reykjavik’s Living MuseumÁrbæjarsafn museum is designed to educate and entertain all agesImagine a museum that welcomed childrento participate in the exhibition and to playwith loose artefacts. Even better, imagine anexhibition entirely designed for children.The Árbæjarsafn museum, established in1957 on the local farm, Árbær, which wason Reykjavik’s outskirts at the time, isuniquely designed for children. Progressivein its vision, the interactive museum catersto families. They can see the very housesfamilies of old used to call home. With morethan two dozen reconstructed buildings tochoose from, children are free to run fromhouse to house, roll in the grass and play withthe museum’s vast collection of toys.Do Touch!The best place to start is in the former churchand sports hall, Landakot. The child-sizedollhouses are lined up along the wall witheach one dedicated to a specific period in time,starting in a farmhouse from 1910, to an urbanhome in the 1930’s, to the new technology ofthe 1970’s and 1990’s. The most popular corneris the 1950’s food market where children canplay shop. The Altar of Toys at the far end ofthe exhibition is its most impressive feature.The interactive time-travel experienceof Landakot is intended to help childrencomprehend the vast changes fromimpoverished farming communities tovideogames over time.‘Ekki Snerta Jörðina’ or ‘Don’t Touch theGround’ is another interactive exhibitiondedicated to children’s games in 2012. Themuseum actively collects modern objectsto document contemporary life for futureexhibitions.Summer at ÁrbæjarsafnÁrbæjarsafn comes alive with livestockroaming the pastures in summer. A cow,sheep and rooster are among its summertimeresidents, giving the cluster of 26 buildingsan air of historical authenticity.In the re-constructed farmhouse of Árbæris a young lamb whose loud bleating echoesfrom the old turf farm to the top floor,where the family of Margrét Pétursdóttirwould sleep alongside the hired hand,Magnús Hanson during his fifty years ofservice to the family.The old church from Skagafjörður regionis next door and could accommodate fiftyor sixty people. The beautiful altar pieceis from 1720 and to some, resembles ‘TheLast Supper’ by Leonardo Da Vinci. Thesimple but beautiful church is perfect for aromantic country-style wedding.–jbÁrbæjarsafnKistuhyl • 110 Reykjavík+354 411 6300minjasafn@reykjavik.iswww.minjasafnreykjavikur.is38 www.icelandictimes.com

GullfossDay ToursDay ToursDay ToursDay ToursDay ToursActivities Airport ExpressValid from 1 June 2012 - next edition&Geysir AreaContact usTel.: (+354) 540 1313Email: iceland@grayline.isInside the Þríhnúkagígur volcanoATVJökulsárlónVestmannaeyjarA Gourmet ExperienceSteaks and Style at Argentína SteakhouseIceland is a land of secrets, waitingto be discovered. For those who lovegood food, wines and spirits, the onlygive-away is a flag hanging above twogates on a side-street just off Laugavegur’sshopping street. Here, at the end of a darkhallway is a large wooden door with anornate handle that opens into one of themost popular and respected restaurants inIceland. Popular, that is, with people inthe know. This hidden epicurean jewel hasbeen sought out by visitors from all overthe world for the past 22 years!Argentína Steakhouse won the coveted‘Restaurant of the Year’ award in 2000 withgood reason. You are not just offered a meal,as this is not an ‘eat-and-run restaurant’ butan evening’s gourmet experience. No matterwhat your choice from the menu, you areguaranteed a meal to remember for itspresentation, flavour, texture and originality.However, the meal is the culmination ofthat experience. Before anything touchesyour taste buds, your other senses areimmersed in the rich leather and wood,the intimate lighting and atmosphereof the rustic, Argentinean-style decor,the music and the tantalising aromas.Enjoying a drink from the large selectionof fine wines and spirits stocked at thebar in front of the fire crackling in thehearth, relaxing in the comfortable chairsof one of the lounges, provides the perfectambiance to the start of your evening.Steaks are the hallmark of Argentína’scuisine. Icelandic beef is untouched bydrugs, additives or steroids. They have beengenetically unaltered over the 1,000 yearssince the first settlers. Allowed to growslowly, they have developed just the rightamount of fat necessary for the meat togrill perfectly and the muscles are finer, sothe steak is succulent and tender. Icelandiclamb is renowned for its unspoilt, naturalgrowth as they roam unrestrained in themountain wilderness pastures, also freefrom additives or hormones, colouringor enhancers – and that shows in itstenderness and taste! Also on the menuis a wide range of carefully selectedfresh seafood, shellfish and lobster, toprovide a choice for every palate.Char grilled to perfection, the steaks arecomplemented by the red and white wineselection from all the major countries andregions, or Champagne and sparkling wines, allserved by attentive waiters and waitresses. Thedesert menu complements the main meal with itsrange of both Icelandic and international choices.There is no incentive to rush out once youhave finished your meal. There are plenty ofcomfortable couches and chairs in which torelax and enjoy an after-dinner glass of qualitycognac, whiskey, port or liqueurs. Argentínais also the most popular venue to buy cigars,though the restaurant is now a smoke-free area.Although the restaurant can seat up to120 guests, including two banquet roomsthat seat up to 16 and 20 guests respectively,Fridays and Saturdays should be booked inadvance. It is open Sunday-Thursday from6 pm to midnight and on Friday-Saturdayfrom 5:30 pm to 1 am. (The kitchen closes90 mins. before closing time.)Argentína–asfBarónsstígur 11 A • 101 Reykjavík+354 551 9555salur@argentina.iswww.argentina.isDay ToursRiver Rafting Fimmvörðuháls Taste the Saga Whale WatchingVisit our sales office downtown at Lækjartorg or go to www.grayline.isÞríhnúkagígurDay tours / Activities / Airport ExpressWhether you would like to join an activity tour, do some sightseeing or just need a transfer tothe airport, you can be sure to find a tour that suits your budget and time schedule in our largeselection of tours!Enjoy Iceland withIceland Excursions – Gray Line Iceland24 hour booking service: (+354) 540 1313 / www.grayline.isJökulsárlónTravel Agency40 www.icelandictimes.comAuthorised byIcelandic Tourist Board

Tours Tailored to TasteIsafold Travel offers flexible tours to fit your wishesIsafold Travel was founded 1997 as afamily based company, which is runby Jón Baldur Thorbjörnsson. The word‘Isafold’ is a poetic name for Iceland. Thecompany has now grown up to be a dynamicall-round tour operator, still focusing ontailored private tours for small groups.The team of Isafold Travel strongly believes inthe advantage of small groups, resulting in moreflexibility, more personal service and highercustomer satisfaction. It’s quite a challenge to‘invent the wheel’ every time a new tour is created,however the Isafold Team loves creativity!Drive a SuperjeepTailored for Season and StyleIsafold Travel offers a selection of guidedscheduled tours that take individualbookings. The company guaranteesdeparture with a minimum of 2 persons andnormally not exceeding a maximum of 10.There are a variety of themes offered. Forexample, there is the culinary tour ‘Taste ofIceland’, summer and winter family tours,various photography tours, authentic tourswith the best seller, ‘Iceland Break’ and finally‘Winter Trophy’, a challenging highlandadventure operated in modified 4x4 ISAK’s.Isak 4x4 Rental has specially modified Land Rovers for any conditionsOn the summer solstice in 2012, it willbe 5 years since the innovative Isak4x4 rental was established. Isak was thefirst car rental in Iceland to offer exclusivelymodified 4x4’s for individual rental and selfdrive purposes. The rental accommodatesthe many requests by individuals andincentive groups to drive a modified SUV,which the Icelanders call a ‘Superjeep’.Drive where others cannot goIsak owns and operates 16 modified 4x4Land Rover Defenders, either type 110 or130. They have been mounted on big 38”42 www.icelandictimes.comDrive Yourself with a ProgrammeThe newest product is the U-drive car rentalpackage, using the modified Land RoverDefenders of their sister company Isak.You can travel around the highlands byyourself using pre-arranged routes in theGPS devices, a detailed programme andpre-booked accommodation.Gifted GuidingWith an exception of the U-Drive tours, both thetailored and scheduled tours are conducted byexcellent driver guides and Isafold Travel focusseson finding the right guide for each group.Isafold traveltyres for increased flotation for driving onsnow, sand or on other soft surfaces, just bydeflating the tyres as far down as one tenthof the normal pressure in extreme situations.Then the wonder happens: the footprintof the Defender will be less deep than afootprint of someone standing alongside it.Equipped for the ExtremeApart from the construction modifications,every Defender is equipped with an aircompressor, ice bumper, snorkel and a VHFradio for communication between the vehicles—along with a shovel and a rope, of course.Challenge yourself and the CountryIsak 4x4 rental opens up a unique andchallenging way to experience Iceland bydriving a superjeep, either individuallyrented, on guided convoy tours, onscheduled challenging winter tours or onexplorative U-Drive Tours in the summer.Isak 4x4 RentalSudurhraun 2B • 210 Gardabær+354 544 8866info@isafoldtravel.iswww.isafoldtravel.isSudurhraun 2B • 210 Gardabær+354 544 8860info@isak.iswww.isak.isBest selection ofIcelandic riding gearWe strive tooffer the bestselection ofIcelandicriding gearOur storesLónsbakki AkureyriLyngháls 3 ReykjavíkPlease visit ouronline storewww.lifland.istel: +354 540 1100

The Patience of a MasterSometimes, materials will require specialtreatment if they are to last and that cantake time. Some woods need to dry slowlyor they will split. Others, such as thefossilized tree he pulled from the water thatwas turning into brown coal, need morepatient treatment. In this case, he wrappedit in plastic and for the next 6 years, he dailypricked a tiny hole in the covering to let justa bit more air in to dry it. Had he done itfaster, it would have splintered and crumbledto dust. Such is the thought and care appliedto each individual material that each handlestands out as carrying the touch of a mastercraftsman, a quality much sought-after.The Warmth of ÁlafossA famous wool centre has turned into a vibrant communitycommunity epitomising IcelandersA penchant for creativity and innovation,art and design has formed around a beautifulwaterfall on the edge of Mosfellsbær.The river was formerly warm, earningit the name ‘Varmá’ (Warm River) and in1896, an enterprising farmer established aknitting factory that was famous for almost100 years, producing woollen goods.It’s less than 20 mins. from Reykjavik andonly 25 mins. to Þingvellir (Thingvellir)National Park. The Laxnes Horse Farm andHalldór Laxnes’ house are only 10 mins.away. Hótel Laxnes and the Fitjar GuestHouse are a mere 5 mins.The Álafoss Wool and Sewing ShopThe Álafoss factory has been turned intoa shop with a warm atmosphere and widerange of interesting articles from past andpresent. They sell everything associatedwith wool, from the yarn to the beautiful,multicoloured finished articles, frompatterns to buttons and zippers. Handknittedarticles from individuals all acrossthe country hang side-by-side with machinemadewoollen clothing—all at really goodprices. Additionally, there are ranges ofbeautiful artistic jewellery, glassware,pottery and silverware to choose from.Álafoss is a fascinating place. As youbrowse, you are surrounded by historicaland technical exhibits from its past.Ásgarður Handwork ShopAcross the road from the shop, disabled artisanshave produced a range of handmade woodentoys and lifestyle designs since 1993. Theyemphasise the development of simple, strongand beautiful toys, based on Rudolf Steiner’sphilosophy, taking Icelandic wood and creatingunique works that you can take home.The Swimming Pool Recording StudioAnother example of Icelanders’ ingenuity isthe old swimming pool, originally built in1931 that fell into disuse. It has beentransformed into the state-of-the-art‘Sundlaugin Recording Studio’, by theinternationally famous Sigur Rós band, andused by a stream of musicians since.Kaffihúsið á ÁlafossiThe Kaffihús á Álafossi is a coffee houseand restaurant but also an art gallery. Inaddition to their private collection, works bya different artist each month are displayedand are available for purchase. It is verychild-friendly and a popular place to sit ona summer’s day—which, of course, laststill late in the evening—and enjoy a widerange of snacks, cakes, meals* and drinks,including beer and stronger drinks whichcan be enjoyed on the veranda or the balconythat overlooks the waterfall and river, withthe tranquil hills beyond.The Kaffihús can accomodate groups of upto 50. It is a hive of activity and a place to meetpeople from the locality, staying open until10 pm and to 11 pm on Thursdays-Saturdays.You can find their news on Facebook.*Meat dishes consist of fish, lamb or chicken.–asfÁlafoss Wool StoreÁlafossvegur 23 • 270 Mosfellsbær+354 566 6303addi@alafoss.iswww.alafoss.isConnoisseur’s DelightHand-made knives by Palli are treasured across the worldCarefully carved out of diligentlyresearched and prepared materials,often rare and always unusual, Palli’s knivesare now found in at least 85 countries of theworld. When he makes a special knife, therecan be quite a competition to own it.Born from enthusiasmPalli started carving knife handles over 25years ago as a personal hobby. He enjoyedfinding unusual materials to create thehandles and took delight in carving eachone carefully to match the individual blades.Under the bladeVisit his workshop and you will most likelyfind yourself seated right under a collectionof blades magnetically held to a bar on theceiling above you. None has fallen yet! Atrue craftsman, he always chooses the bestblades, sourcing them from as far away asPakistan. Others come from blacksmithin Denmark. Factory made blades comefrom Norway, Sweden and Germany. Theyare either made from fine Damascus steel,stainless steel or single high carbon steel:which keeps its sharp edge the best.Nature’s provisionWhat is special about these handles? Palliloves to wander the countryside, lookingfor new materials for his handles. Often,he will blend different materials togetherto form a composite handle that, whencarved, will be unique. A horse’s hoof, areindeer’s antler, a goat’s horn, a hippo’stooth, elm, fossilized wood, ebony or evendifferent Icelandic stones - these are buta few of the materials he uses to createa handle. Whilst most are found withinIceland’s shores, his search also takes himto many different parts of the world.Custom or catalogue - all are uniqueBecause each knife is hand made, it is aunique creation. He does have a cataloguebut the images are just samples, as noknives are completely identical. He lovesthe challenge of experimenting with newmaterials. A 65 year-old dentist drill ispressed into use for intricate carvings. Theycan be ordered online or, in Iceland, canbe found at Brynja, the handyman shop onLaugarvegur 29, Reykjavik’s main shoppingstreet and at his workshop in Mosfellsbær. It’sworth the 15 minute trip there (from downtown Reykjavík) to see the environmentfrom which he draws his inspiration in hisworkshop next to the Álafoss waterfall.–ASFPalli the Knife MakerÁlafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ+354 899 690344 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 45palli@knifemaker.iswww.knifemaker.is

Your own piece of IcelandArt and nature collide at Gallery FrontIn soothing closeness to the sea and nature,artists Valdís and her daughter, Karen,have made their long term dream come true.At their gorgeous home, by the shores ofKjalanes, they have opened a gallery, sellingtheir distinctive craftwork made mostly fromstones found on the slopes of the nearbymountain and on the beach by their doorstep.Valdís, who has been fascinated by stonessince childhood and is an avid collector,says they constantly look for stones shapedin a way that allows them to transform themsimply by painting them.The stones, elaborately painted inbeautiful colours, take on a whole newlife, and become their own element. Thebrilliant thing is that they don’t changethe shape of the stones in any way, theirnatural form drives the creative processand the final outcome, making eachMosskógarCamp Site and Organic Vegetable MarketAn ecological vegetable farm in Mosfellsdalur is also abeautiful and calm camp site, sheltered from wind. Fullyequipped service centre with cooking facilities, electricity.Market is open Saturdays from noon to 4pm. Easily found4 km. from Mosfellsbær on the way to Þingvellir. Not farfrom the capital. Bus service available.Dalsgarði 1 • 270 MosfellsbæSnorri TravelBus RentalTour Operatorwww.snorritravel.is+354 566 81212cosyapartmentshome accommodation offers two well equipped,private apartments with private entrance in acalm neighbourhood in the beautiful town ofMosfellbær. Regular bus to city centre.Bæjarás 5 • 270 Mosfellsbægudrun.elsa.g@gmail.com+354 611 8699www.2cosyapartments.compiece one of a kind, aunique blend of art and nature.Karen, having a keen artistic eye, alsomakes jewellery and ornaments fromseashells and decorative pearls, which makegreat presents. Also, their little heart-shapedstones, small enough to fit into a child’shand, and their funny little ‘houses’ arewonderful souvenirs. After all, what couldbe more perfect to bring home with youthan a small piece of Iceland in your pocket?Gallery FrontTravel inTouchwww.trawire.com–hþBúagrund 13 • 116 Reykjavík+354 695 9652frontlist@front.iswww.front.isTravel in TouchRent an iPad from Trawire to guide your Icelandic travel and businessIceland is very well connected. 2G mobilecoverage covers the whole country and 3Greaches towns, villages, most coastal areasand some of the interior. There are Wi-Fihotspots in practically every inhabited spot.A New Memory Each MonthSnerra Publishing introduces the 2012 selectionOnce you’ve returned home from yourtrip to Iceland, you’llundoubtedly want to havesomething to remember it by.Having a new picture fromIceland on your wall everymonth is surely one of the betterways to do it. Snerra publishingcompany is now presenting a newselection of calendars for the year2012 – a souvenir which is not onlynice to look at but also practical andinformative.The 2012 selection is especiallyextensive, with ‘The Icelandic Calendar’,which includes pictures of the landscape,towns and people of Iceland in all fourseasons; ‘This is Iceland’ offering glimpses ofthe Icelandic way of life; ‘Experience Iceland’focussing on the powerful forces of natureat work in Iceland; ‘The Panoramic DeskCalendar’; ‘The Icelandic Horse Calendar andthe ever popular Puffin Calendar. The NatureCalendar is new this year with drawings byaward winning artist, Jón Baldur Hlíðberg.Now you can stay in touch with friendsand family and up-to-date with news orbusiness. Trawire has launched an innovativeiPad rental plan to help you get the most fromyour visit. As you travel within Iceland, youreceive GPS-based guidance,information and/or articles with built-in Apps.Trawire offers several add-on features,such as a children’s package with videosand games to help time pass quicklywhile travelling. The iPad can also beattached to the back of the seat in front.The business pack is ideal for conferenceattendees and business travellers whowant to travel light. Trawire providesall needed applications to keep updatedon business developments, news andcontacts at home and help organise eventsand schedules while visiting Iceland.Order a Trawire iPad online and itcan be waiting for you upon arrivalor collected at chosen locations .Trawire was inspired by gifted, autisticchildren who function better in the modernworld using iPads. Trawire’s policy is to ‘giveback’ by sponsoring autistic children.Trawire–asfYou can keep up with what’s going on inIceland as the official Icelandicholidays are marked on the calendars- so you’ll know when to celebrateIceland’s Independence Day andwhen to start eating putrefiedshark and soured liver sausages.Snerra PublishingGrundartanga 28 • 270 Mosfellsbæ+354 651 RENTtrawire@trawire.comwww.trawire.com46 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 47–asfSkútuvogur 10f • 104 Reykjavik+354 567 3350snerra@snerra.iswww.snerra.is

Duty FreeUp to 50% off City Prices in the Arrivals Duty Free StoreFrequent flyers know the ropes. They getthrough Passport Control and Customsand head to the Duty Free stores. They needto think—are they entitled or not? Then, ladenwith bags, they struggle to the plane, shovingtheir precious cargo into already-overstuffedoverhead lockers. At the end of their flight,they lug the same bags down miles ofwalkways, stairs and escalators, before pickingup their luggage and struggling to the taxis,coaches or trains, hoping they don’t drop orbreak the bottles on the way.Iceland - a Different WayThe Vikings do things differently. At theInternational Airport at Keflavik, you will finda rare opportunity: a Duty Free Store in theArrivals section, right at the luggage pick-uppoint, where there are trolleys available. Merefeet from the luggage carousels, passengerscan do their shopping at huge discountscompared to city prices, especially on wines,spirits and tobacco products. Before theirluggage arrives, they can have their shoppingdone and save a lot of money.Don’t lug it with you - get it hereOpened in 1970, the Arrivals Duty FreeShop was an immediate success. In theairport expansion in 2008, it was expandedto accommodate a much larger range ofinternational and Icelandic brands. Theexpansion provided the opportunity to offera very good selection of products - often farbetter than other airports and even downtown.Today, it has the largest range of wines,spirits and beers in the country—larger, even,than many other countries’ airports—and itincludes the international award-winningEgils Gull. Cosmetics, confectionery, tobaccoproducts, toys and electronic products—including DVD titles are all availableat discounted prices, so it is an idealopportunity to take advantage of the lowerprices before starting your visit. Here youwill find all the top brands at knock-downprices. Think of it as a holiday discount!Icelanders don’t mind which countryyou’re coming from or going to: the DutyFree discount applies equally to all. Youdon’t need to worry about buying Icelandiccurrency first - all major cards are accepted.Go Home well stockedOf course, most of the things you buy in theArrivals Duty Free will probably be finished bythe end of your visit and you will be lookingfor something special to remember your tripand for gifts to loved ones and children.There is also a large Duty Free Store inthe Departure Lounge. Duty Free fashionclothing by Burberry and Boss and a specialrange of clothing by Icelandic designers,such as Kronn are on sale. In addition, thereis a special store for those uniquely Icelandicitems that make perfect gifts and souvenirsthat is worth paying a visit.Unlike most other modern airports,the walk to the plane is short and trolleyscan carry the load almost to the planes.Passengers from non-Schengen countriesdo not even have to walk to the DepartureLounge as there is a shop close to theirplanes with the same products and prices.–asfDuty FreeSail with CharcotSee what life was like on the polar pioneer’s ship in SandgerðiJean-Baptiste Charcot was born in 1867.He took an old soapbox when he was 3years old, scrawled “Pourquoi Pas?” on itsside and set sail—in the garden pool! Itsank, leaving him wet but undaunted!French society was too superficial forhim. In 1892, aged 25, he bought his firstship and sailed north to the Shetlands,Hebrides, Faroes and Iceland.His father died the following year, leavinghim a large inheritance, allowing him toleave medicine behind for a life of scientificinvestigation and sea-faring adventure.On his first trip to the Antactic, he chartedmore than 600 miles of new Antarctic coastlineand islands. Another, equally successfulexpedition followed. Scott of the Antarcticnicknamed him, ‘The Gentleman of the Pole’.After the 1st World War, he led expeditionsto the Færoe Islands, Jan Mayen Island,Iceland and Greenland. The ‘Pourquoi Pas?’was a scientific research vessel with a libraryand three laboratories on board.The ship stopped often in Iceland, whereCharcot made many friends, includingthe eminent Icelandic naturalist, BjarniSæmundsson. When the ‘Pourquoi Pas?’ putinto Reykjavik to repair its boiler, they hada meeting that was to prove to be their last.Disaster in the BayThe ship set sail on the 16 th September, 1936,heading for France, when a sudden, veryviolent storm drove them off course, acrossthe Faxafloi Bay onto the rocks. Of the crewof over 40 souls, only one survived. Thenews shocked all Iceland and a memorialservice was held in Reykjavik for them.You can get an idea of what it was likeon the ‘Pourquoi Pas?’ 1982-2012 at the SuðurnesUniversity Research Centre in Sandgerði,where part of the ship has been reconstructedwith many items from both the ship andCharcot’s personal belongings on display.This is a dramatic display that reallygives a clear impression of life on boardthe ship and is well worth a visit to thecentre, close to the harbour.Sandgerðisbær–asfMiðnestorg 3 • 245 Sandgerði+354 420 7555sandgerdi@sandgerdi.iswww.sandgerdi.isKeflavík airport • 235 Reykjanesbæ+354 425 0410dutyfree@dutyfree.iswww.dutyfree.is48 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 49

Grindavík ExperienceThe vibrant life of a fishing town in a sea of history and activitieswww. Northern Light Inn.isAtv Adventures IcelandBy the Blue LagoonTour available every day 10:00 / 12:00/14:00 & 17:15..Pick-up 8:30 / 10:30 /12:30 & 15:45Self-drive ATV and Buggy toursRide along Buggy toursFreedom Mountain Air AdrenalinTel. +354 426 8650 • Northern Lights Road 1 • GrindavíkkanturinnBar & RestaurantVikings know how to enjoy themselves–thefishing community, especially. That makesGrindavík popular with tourists who want toexperience the real culture of the country.Hafnargata 6 • 240 Grindavík +354 426 9999Arctic HorsesTake a ride on the wild siteArctic Horses offers horseback rides tothe best destinations of the otherworldlyReykjanes Peninsula in southwesternIceland and is the only stable riding near thegeothermal Blue Lagoon Spa.Hestabrekka 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 848 0143ride@arctichorses.com www.arctichorses.comGolden circle • Eyjafjallajökull • Blue lagoon • Volcano Garden • Caving toursVolcano toursVolcano Tours take you to the most breathtakingplaces in Iceland by luxury jeep+354 426 8822 volcano@volcano.is www.volcanotours.isGuesthouseBORGGuesthouse Borg is open all year foryou to enjoy our homely atmosphere.Guesthouse Borg is only 5 mins. drivefrom the Blue Lagoon and 20 mins. drivefrom the international airport. GuesthouseBorg is in the centre of the wonderful townof Grindavík where you can enjoy thehospitality of its people and its life.Borgarhraun 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 895 8686bjorksv@hive.is www.guesthouseborg.comSjómannastofan VörDelicious lunch buffet available every day;including fresh fish, meat, soup and a saladbar.Price: 2,000 kr. Great value for moneyHafnargötu 9 • 240 Grindavík+354 426 8570www.lavatours.is - +354-857-3001 - atv4x4@atv4x4.is - facebook.com/atvtoursThe Art of Bacalao in GrindavíkSalthúsið Restaurant takes this famous fish to a new level of tasteCall it bacalao, salted cod, morue orsaltfisk in Icelandic, the cod fish was soimportant to Iceland’s economy that it featuredprominently on the Icelandic Coat of Arms.The Salthúsið (Salt House) Restaurantof Grindavík is the first restaurant inIceland specialising in the lowly codfish,bringing it up to new heights.Once the staple of the poor, baccalaohas been a celebrated ingredient inMediterranean, African, and Caribbeancuisine for many centuries.Benefiting from its proximity to the sea,Salthusið’s á la carte menu features beautifullypresented seafood that couldn’t be more fresh:whether it’s cod, haddock or catfish or evenlobster—it all depends on the ‘catch of the day’.Not a fish lover? The menu also features itemssuch as marinated fillet of lamb, beef tenderloinand BBQ ribs amongst others.Linger over a glass of wine from Salthusið’sextensive wine list while listening to the softambient music in front of the wood-burningstove in the dining room that serves towarm and brighten those rainy days that aresometimes a part of life in Grindavík.Aside from the á la carte evening menu,there is more casual fare for the lunch crowd,a café with free Internet access and a barwhich is popular with the locals on weekends.Salthusið Restaurant, just 5 minutes drivefrom the internationally acclaimed BlueLagoon, is housed in a warm and invitinglog house, made of solid Estonian pine. Therestaurant, spanning 2 floors, is an elegantvenue for banquets, parties, conferences andreception dinners accommodating a totalof 200 guests. The large premises can hostconferences, workshops and meetings in 3dining rooms, each with its own separatesound system, wireless Internet and anoverhead projection system.–emvSalthúsið RestaurantStamphólsvegi 2 • 240 Grindavík+354 426 9700salthusid@salthusid.iswww.salthusid.is50 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 51

The Heart of ReykjanesGrindavík is surrounded by rare geological and historical sitesGrindavík is a small community on thesouth coast of the Reykjanes peninsulawith just under 3,000 inhabitants. Situatedjust 5 mins. from the magnificent Blue Lagoonand less than half an hour from KeflavíkInternational airport, it is a perfect stopover.The magnitude of the region’s naturallandscape and geothermal activity drawsIcelanders and travellers alike to this smallcommunity—so close to the capital city, yeta raw, lunar-like landscape, surrounded bythe volatile North Atlantic Ocean.The region is an area of fire and water andfrom Grindavík alone, tour operators VolcanoTours and Salty Tours offer travellers theopportunity to explore the volcanic regions ofIceland, and Atv-Adventures tickle the fancyof spirited adventurers to explore the regionon quads and mountain bikes.Within the Reykjanes peninsula, VolcanoTours specialise in tours exploring the manywonders above the tectonic rift of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge on which this southwest tipof Iceland is situated. The geological historyof the peninsula alone includes over 100volcano craters, 200 lava tubes and 12 lavas,all within the last millennium.Another great way to explore the region is onhorseback. The only tour operator specialisingin horse riding tours in the vicinity of the BlueLagoon is situated in Grindavík. Arctic Horsesprovide riding tours for both the experiencedhorse rider and the novice.Local authorities and tour-companieswork side by side to create an experienceof a lifetime for travellers visiting the area.The next big step is the advancement of geotourismin the Reykjanes area, a project inwhich all the local communities participate.Grindavík Experience is local initiativewhere the emphasis is placed on thegeological history of the region as well asthe region’s cultural heritage.New pathways connecting Grindavík to theBlue Lagoon have been approved, soon enablingeveryone to cycle or walk to the Blue Lagoonthrough the ancient lava fields of the peninsula.Accommodation in Grindavík and itsvicinity is available in all price ranges.For the easy-going traveller, the optionis between a state-of-the art camping siteand the Fiskanes Hostel. For the leisurelytraveller, the Borg Guest House and theArctic B&B provide good options toexperience the warm comforts of Icelandichomes. Top of the range accommodationin the Grindavík area is supplied by theNorthern Light Inn, the luxurious hotel amere five minutes walking distance fromthe Blue Lagoon. To get even closer, theaccommodation at the Blue lagoon ClinicHotel includes access to the Blue Lagoon.Grindavíkurbær–jbLife is Never Dull HereFrom the Blue Lagoon to a vibrant fishing harbour in GrindavíkLife in Grindavík revolves around theharbour. Its economy depends onfishing and fish exports to Europe, theAmericas, Africa and Asia.Today, the harbour entrance of Grindavíkis treacherous but once inside, it’s a featherbed to a modern fleet of trawlers. The watershave claimed the lives of hundreds of sailorssince Grindavík’s settlement in the 11 thcentury. In former times, farmers-comesailorsheroically rowed for their lives whileriding a large wave that would hopefullycarry them and their vessel high enoughonto the beach for them not to drown.Today, Grindavík is Iceland’s third mostimportant fishing town. Yet the town offersmany attractions and activities for visitors.Lions Created the Blue LagoonWe have Grindavík’s Lions Club to thankfor the creation of the now world-famousBlue Lagoon less than 5 minutes drive fromthe town. During the 70’s oil crisis, theclub facilitated explorations for hot water,drilling in the lava field north of the townin the hope of finding hot water to heatthe homes and businesses in Grindavík.The exploration revealed not only hotwater but an immense pressure source forgenerating electricity. The Blue Lagoon isthe most popular man-made attraction inIceland and its mineral-rich saline water issaid to have exfoliating, moisturising andrejuvenating properties for skin.Seaman’s Day and the Happy SailorSeaman’s Day is celebrated all over Icelandon the first Sunday in June each year andis an important event to Grindavík’s 2,800inhabitants. The town also has its ownfestival between Friday, 1 st June and Sunday,3 rd June 2012 called the “Happy Sailor”.For three days, there are a stream of eventsranging from sea angling in the harbour forthe children to a ‘pillow fight’ for adults—which ends when one or all the participantsend up in the sea.What to do in GrindavíkThe modern geothermal swimming pooland waterslide are particularly popularwith children. The Saltfish Museum coversthe history of salted cod and its export toSpain and Portugal early last century. Thecoastline is dotted with ship wrecks, eachwith explanatory signs. There are ampleopportunities for bird watching and thehills and small mountains are ideal forhiking, cycling and quad biking. Thereare lighthouses and two geothermal powerstations close by, resting on the lava fields.Accommodation includes cosy guesthouses,a hostel and a recently improved campsiteand caravan park near the harbour. Thereare restaurants and convenience stores tosatisfy everyone’s needs.–SVVíkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík+354 420 1100grindavik@grindavik.iswww.visitgrindavik.is52 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 53

RareSights of ReykjanesWhen you land at the Internationalairport in Keflavik, you are just 45 minfrom the capital—and you’ll no doubt want tobe getting there as soon as you can, so you canget checked in and begin enjoying your holiday.Time is precious, but so is money, so you willprobably want to save both from the start.Iceland Excursions-Gray Line Iceland runsa very efficient Airport Express shuttle servicein comfortable coaches that leave at regularintervals after each flight. Not only do you get asmooth trip directly to your hotel or guesthouse,but you get an idea of things to see.There is a lot of history on the peninsula—not to mention so many wildlife andgeological attractions that you’ll have tocome back here to discover.On the left is the glittering oceanwhilst to the right are the vast lava field,mountains and volcanos. You’ll see theplumes of steam rising up from theA new road to sights unseenworld-famous Blue Lagoon - one place youdefinitely need to visit.After you have been safely delivered toyour hotel, you might wonder what wouldbe the best way to see these sights that areso unusual that your friends will think youPhotoshopped your holiday pictures. Thereare many tours you can take but the areayou’ve just passed through is one of the mostworthwhile to explore more fully.Tours to the Best Kept SecretsIceland wasn’t called ‘Europe’s best keptsecret’ for nothing! Experienced guidesbring the tours to life, sharing fascinatinghistory, anecdotes, folk tales and evenscientific background and try to make eachtrip personal for every traveller.This is one reason that Iceland Excursions-Gray Line Iceland offers guided tours to thearea that take in all the fascinating sightsand special attractions only found here suchas the bridge between the continents atthe junction of the tectonic plates. Icelandis a geologically young land and it’s stillstretching its muscles—as you’ll see here.The country you’re visiting is still on firein the basement, despite the lunar landscape,a result of old volcanic eruptions. There arestill boiling mud pools, hot spots wheresteam rises freely from the waters, paintingthe surrounding rocks in surreal colours.Revealing ReykjanesVisitors are increasingly recognising the valueof the tours to these areas and there are twodifferent tours available that cover the sameground. One (AH17) leaves at 9 am, after apick-up from your hotel and includes time tobathe in the Blue Lagoon. The second tour(AH16) also goes to the Blue Lagoon, leavingat 1 pm, which doesn’t allow time for bathingbut includes all the same sights in this part ofthe Reykjanes peninsula. With a history goingback to the earliest settlers, there is much to seeand experience. The tour makes a short stop atthe harbour of the fishing town of Grindavík,just 5 mins from the Blue Lagoon beforeheading off to the geothermal area at Seltún,with its bubbling, boiling mud pools.On its return to Reykjavik, the touralso passes through the lunar landscape atKrýsuvík. You don’t need an Apollo flightto feel what the moon must be like! Fromthere, the tour stops at Kleifarvatn lake,where bubbles stream up from fissures on thebottom, through the rocks and sand. This isa popular spot for divers and hikers. A quickcheck of YouTube videos will show why!Marine World and Geological WondersThe third tour, (AH19), leaving at 8 am,takes you around the northern and westernparts of the peninsula, visiting Sandgerðiand taking in the marine sights, such as theisland of Eldey, weather permitting. Thereare very few spots in the world to see thetectonic plates splitting. At Sandvík, you’llbe able to stand on two continents. Thebrightly coloured landscape offers a greatvariety of possibilities for the photographer.A spa before your flightThe tour ends at the Blue Lagoon, where youcan bathe, continue with the AH16 tour, takea bus to the airport to catch your flight homeor one to Reykjavik directly. This flexibilitymakes it a popular choice - as does a last tourbefore going to the airport and heading home.–asfIceland ExcusionsHafnarstræti 20 • 101 Reykjavík+354 540 1313iceland@grayline.iswww.grayline.is56 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com57

The hotel overlooksthe picturesque small boat harbour inKeflavik. Some of Keflavik’s best walks andrestaurants are nearby. A 7-minute drive tothe International airport makes it a favouritechoice with travellers who arrive in thecountry at night or depart early. You don’twant a long trek after a tiring flight.performances. Last but notleast, it has served as a concert hall where mostof the community’s local artists have performedsince its opening.The last building to be incorporated into themuseum is the Bryggjuhúsið or the Harbourhouse. It is one of the more important buildingsin the Duus Hús cluster, and the goal is tomake it a mirror image of the original.To the local municipality, arts are an assetto society of man, and the fusion of historyand art makes the Duus Hús Cultural centrea unique place to visit.Nearly 400.000 visitors have come to theart museum since the opening in 2002.I wish I could stay longerPeace, quiet, rest and relaxation in the comfort of Hotel BergSince TripAdvisor.com awarded aCertificate of Excellence to Hotel Berg,you know it’s a special place to stay. Thissmall, new and homely hotel in Keflavikwith its twelve spacious double rooms, iswarm, pleasant and quiet. Close to theairport but you don’t hear the planes.Harbour Dining in Old KeflavikAuthentic Icelandic and international cuisine at Kaffi DuusIt’s the classic seafood restaurant settingoverlooking Keflavik’s small harbour.From our window seat, we are treated to aview of the deep blue waters of Faxaflói Bayand the snow capped mountains of SnæfellnessPeninsula on the horizon. A pair of kittiwakesglide overhead, completing the picture-perfectsetting. From its simple beginnings as smallEach room has an en-suite bathroomwith a washbasin, shower and toilet, aTV and DVD player, with movies onrequest, wireless Internet, high-qualitybedding, a fridge, a hair-dryer andother conveniences. Buffet breakfast isserved as early as needed.café, Kaffi Duus has evolved into a sizablerestaurant with an extensive menu, suitablefor an intimate tete-á-tete or a special occasiondinner for large groups.The chef regaled me with one of thespecialties of the house, the Seafood Trioá la Duus, comprising 3 types of fish, plusshrimp and lobster tails on a mound of freshMany a visitor has commented that theywished they could have stayed longer, asthey had enjoyed it so much–especiallyafter they found they could see all thesights and enjoy the tours while basingfrom this quiet and comfortable hotel.Hótel Berg–asfBakkavegur 17 • 230 Reykjanesbæ+354 422 7922berg@hotelberg.iswww.hotelberg.isvegetables. Arriving steaming hot, served on awooden platter, it was impressive and delicious.Also on the menu: authentic Indian vegetablestews, pasta dishes and a range of fresh fish,lobster and all manner of seafood dishes. If youare not a seafood lover, the ‘Grilled Trio of theHouse’ - lamb fillet, beef and pork tenderloin,served with grilled vegetables and baked potatoallows you to sample some of the best cuts ofsucculent Icelandic meat.Kaffi Duus will fulfill your expectationsfor authentic Icelandic and internationalcuisine in a charming location, just 5minutes from the airport.Kaffi Duus–emvDuusgötu 10 • 230 Reykjanesbæ+354 421 7080duus@duus.iswww.duus.isA Cultural MetropolisReykjanes Duus Hús combines culture and historyThe often missed but must-be-visitedtown of Reykjanesbær is the first signof civilisation upon arrival in Iceland. Don’tbe bluffed by the smallness of the community.The wealth of activities available to visitors andlocals is extensive and locals are particularlyproud of their heritage and the intimacy theyshare with the great North Atlantic Oceancrashing upon its rocky shores.The best place to discover the long traditionof seamanship is at the Reykjanes ArtMuseum located in the Duus Hús CulturalCentre, one of Iceland’s most remarkablehistorical documentations of life in ages past.The Duus Hús Cultural Centre openedits doors in the spring of 2002 when thefirst stage was completed. In the yearsto come, the cultural centre grew from asingle construction to a cluster of housesrepresenting 100 years of architecturalhistory in the region, the oldest one from1877 and the most recent one from 1954.The choice of material changed significantlyfrom timber in 1877 to concrete in 1954.Throughout history, the Duus Hús clusterhas been a commercial centre for the localfishing industry and today, it is a memorialmuseum celebrating the region’s long historyof seamanship and fish processing.A veritable armada of vesselsThe first house to open on May 11 th in 2002was Bátasalurinn, where over 100 modelsof the Icelandic fleet have been collected.The oldest are replicas of 19 th centuryvessels to modern 20 th century trawlers.Grímur Karlsson, a former sea captain,built the majority of the collection. Otheritems of interest are wooden sculptures byGuðmundur Garðarsson, and souvenirsand pictures rooted in seamanship and fishprocessing.The World of ArtListasalurinn (art gallery) opened in April2003 and numerous local and internationalartists have exhibited their work in thegallery. The current exhibition is a collectionof artwork from a large collection belongingto former sea captain Matthías Matthíassonand his wife Katrín M. Ólafsdóttir. MatthíasMatthíasson collected art from around theworld during his travels as a captain and wasa friend and a benefactor to artists in theFaroe Islands, Denmark and in Iceland.Gryfjan or the Pit Hole opened in DuusHús on June 11 th . 2004, the day Reykjanesbærcelebrated its tenth anniversary. Two yearslater, Bíósalurinn or the Cinema Room openedits doors for cultural activities, meetings,conferences, art exhibitions and theatreA testament to the seamen of the pastA new exhibition - the Fishing Season (Vertíð)- opened on June 2, and is a documentationof the pre-industrialised years when seamenwould head out to sea on small rowboats.Workers from all corner of the countrywould walk long distances to the shores ofReykjanes where work was plentiful duringthe winter season from 2 nd February to 11 thMay. As early as the early 1800’s, commercialvessels travelled to Iceland in Spring, stockedwith foreign products and departed in theautumn laden with Icelandic seafood.Toward the end of the 19 th century,merchants set up shop along the coast ofIceland. The new commercial centre becamethe heart of small coastal communitieserected as a result of the industry’sexpansion. Two of the buildings in the Duuscluster are former commercial centres.Further in the past: The Viking WorldIf there is time to spare, a visit toVíkingaheimar or Viking World is a greatway to end the day. It is the place to exploreNorse Mythology, records of famous sagasand authentic turf houses where earlysettlers lived once upon a time.–jBTjarnargötu 12 • 230 Reykjanesbæ+354 421 6700reykjanesbaer@reykjanesbaer.iswww.reykjanesbaer.is58 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 59Reykjanesbær

They Love LifeAkranes is for people who enjoy nature, culture, life and funEarly Celtic pioneers made a good choicewhen they set up home Akranes. It’s ahaven for nature lovers, bird lovers, beachlovers and history buffs. Those settlers wouldbe surprised today at the small fishing townthat has built up around their early dwellings.You can see Akranes gleaming in thesunshine across the bay from the harbour inReykjavik. It’s only a bus ride away, with theregular bus service taking you past picturesquefarms, setting the stage for the variety of natureand bird life as you approach the town. Oncethere, the local bus service is free.Akranes is a very popular place for campingand caravans. The sites are well set up with allthe facilities easily available. Shops and thetwo swimming pools are close by. There isalso the golden sand beach, which is unusualfor Iceland. There are changing facilities anda sun veranda right next to it. Hot showersand a jaccuzzi make it a relaxing place toenjoy the long summer evenings.Akranes is surrounded on three sides bythe sea—which gives plenty of scope for somegood fishing. Since the camp site is right nextto one of these fishing spots, catching yourdinner is all the easier, if you’re a fisherman.The geography of the area is really inspiringfor hikers, who have all levels of hiking opento them—including the mountain that formsthe backdrop to the town and, to a largeextent, protection from the northerly winds.The summer is usually warm and pleasantbut the same cannot be said for the winter! Ifyou take a look at the two lighthouses, you’llsee the smaller one is a little closer to the sea.It has been abandoned now since the winter’srough seas spray right over it. Both are open tovisitors and provide a beautiful panoramic viewof the Akranes area and all the way to Keflavík.This is the land of the Celts and, forthe history buff, there is much to see. Thespiritually-minded Celts travelled in smallboats covered in skins that seemed to surviveon a wing and a prayer, relying on miraclesrather than engineering prowess like theVikings. In fact, it is said that Saint Brendantested his faith in these little craft againstthe wild Atlantic—faith and prayers thatclearly kept them, as they had a thrivingcommunity around Akranes.That community spirit not only survivesbut thrives today, as the townsfolk love allforms of culture. The Music School is rightin the centre of town; art and crafts are foundeverywhere, as is writing, singing and poetry.One of the highlights of the year is the Irishfestival from 6 th —8 th July with a variety ofevents that will keep the die-hard party addicthappy. It’s a big family event that includeseveryone in the fun—local and visitor alike.Akranes is a family town and there areplenty of activities from golf to football (theirtop team boasts several stars who have goneto famous international clubs). There is agreat barbeque area in the park, surroundedby trees, with games and crazy golf. Walkingand cycling are popular pastimes with pathsof different lengths to enjoy.The museum area is really worth visiting.Besides examples of fishing vessels down theyears displayed outside, including the onlyexample of a 3-masted cutter, the indoorsection has samples of practically everyaspect of the fisherman’s life. Next to it isanother unusual museum: The IcelandicSport Museum. Check out the footsteps onthe floor. A Geological museum is housed inthe same building with a large collection ofstones which show just how colourful Icelandis. There is always a temporary exhibit ondisplay. Currently, there is a photo gallery ofpast residents that gives a fascinating insightinto the character of the people. Work isstarting shortly on the construction of TheCeltic Cultural Centre, which will bringscientifically documented evidence togetherof the Celtic influence and history. But then,just look at the number of fair-skinned redheadsand you’ll see how strong it is.–asfAkraneskaupstaðurStillholti 16-18 • 300 Akranesi+354 433 1000tomas.gudmundsson@akranes.iswww.akranes.is60 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 61

Akranesthe Celtic town that glittersacross the bayDýrfinna TorfadóttirMaster Goldsmith & Jewellery DesignerIcelandHafnastræti 4 • 400 Ísafjörður +354 464 3460 Vogabraut 4 • 300 Akranes +354 695 62 55 Görðum • 300 Akranes+354 431 5566diditorfa@simnet.is www.diditorfa.com icelandtreasures.@gmx.com icelandtreasures.bizinfo@birtabirta.is www.birtabirta.is gudnihh@simnet.iswww.museum.isEat like the localsGamla Kaupfélagið is a popular place for locals and foreigners to meetFor more than three years, GamlaKaupfélagið has been one of the mostpopular restaurants in Akranes, enjoyedby locals as well as tourists. With a greatvariety of dishes, this restaurant cansatisfy every hungry customer.You name it!From popular pizzas, pasta and burgersto soup, barbeque ribs and lamb fillet.You will find something appetising asyou shuffle through this big menu! Openfrom noon till ten in the evening, this isthe restaurant where locals stop by forthe big salads, yummy pizzas baked ina brick oven on birch, Icelandic lobstersoup or the homemade ice-cream.Icelandic Puffin EggsMilk chocolate treats with soft chewyliquorice centresGood food doesn’t have to be expensive“Portions are not small here”, says GísliSigurjón Þráinsson, restaurant manager.Taking that into consideration, you willnot have to take a lot of money out of yourpocket to dine here. Don’t worry about notfinding a table. The restaurant takes up to230 people, nicely divided into two roomsand a terrace for sunny days.A bar after 10The last food order is normally at 10 p.m. Buton the weekends, Gamla Kaupfélagið turns intoAkranes’ local pub, where folks enjoy a drinkwith friends and chat till 3 in the morning. It isoften a venue for troubadours and concerts. So,come and enjoy the local atmosphere with thefriendly people of Akranes!–abGamla KaupfélagiðAvailable inall qualitygift shopsaroundKirkjubraut 11 • 300 Akranesi+354 431 4343gamlakaupfelagid@skaginn.iswww.gamlakaupfelagid.isThis locally run summer guesthouseis located in Akranes, a small fishingtown reachable within a 45 minutesdrive from Reykjavík. We offer32 rooms in the local high schooldormitory during summer break.Opening in AkranesKaffi Ást is the hot spot to visitHögni and Elena have put a terrific amountof effort into converting the new KaffiÁst, and it looks beautiful. This is going to bethe gathering place for all kinds of coffee, withhomemade pastries, cakes or cookies. Simplemeals of hamburgers and hot dogs will beavailable and the bar has alcohol, too.What makes this kaffi stand out is thebeautiful décor. The gallery consists ofworks of art and handicrafts, all locallymade.If you like it, you can buy it and takeit home with you. There’s a lot to like here.Birta GuesthouseAkranes Folk Museum • Iceland’s Sport MuseumMineral Kingdom • Play area for kidsGarðakaffiLocated within the Akranes MuseumCenter, Garða Café inivtes you to stopby for light refreshments, teas & coffee.For instance, many of the tables have a glasstop covering a beautiful display of stonesand little pieces of art. It makes for a veryinteresting conversation piece—and couldmake an interesting quiz to see who canidentify the different items.While you’re enjoying your refreshments,you can always check in, as there is wirelessInternet available. On those nice, warm sunnydays that you get so many of in Akranes, therewill be tables outside to enjoy the fresh air,with a fountain playing in the garden.It’s a beautiful place—pay it a visit!Kaffi Ást–asfKirkjubraut 8 • 300 Akranes+354 844 940062 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 63kaffiast@gmail.comon facebook

Authorised byIcelandic Tourist BoardODeep in Natural WondersGamli Bærinn Bed & Breakfast at HúsafellDriving north towards Akureyri inthe Spring, I decided to wander offthe ring road near the town of Borgarnesto do some exploring. Forty minutes later,I found myself at Húsafell—an area richin history with several extraordinarywaterfalls, two scenic glaciers and somepretty amazing people.Húsafell is a service village nowadays,but in former times it was a sprawling estatewith a farm and rectory under the care ofthe 18 th century Pastor Snorri Björnason.The old farmhouse from 1908, known todayas Gamli Bærinn, has been renovated andturned into a quaint bed and breakfast thatoffers sleeping bag accommodation and madeup beds. Owners Steinunnand Sæmundur will be more than happy topoint you in the right direction to the naturalwonders in the area, among them:ÑÑSurtshellir - a lava tube, the longest cavein Iceland at (1970 m or 6463 ft)ÑÑHraunfossar - a series of low cascadingfalls that come up through the lava plain.ÑÑBarnafoss fallsÑÑLangjökull and Eiríksjökull GlaciersBeautifully sculpted rocks, the work ofsculptor and musician Páll Guðmundsson,himself the great, great, great grandsonof Pastor Snorri, are scattered around thegrounds. A fascinating artist and musician,Páll is also known for his marimba-likeinstrument made of stones. Páll and theSigur Rós band did a performance using thesteinnharp, as it is called in Icelandic, severalyears ago in the Surtshellir lava tube cave.–emvGamli bærinn Húsafelli9• trip duration approx. one hour from your accommodation to the airport126Fast, frequentand on scheduleevery day ofthe week.3your partner in airport transfersbetween reykjavík & Keflavík airportthe bus youcan’t miss!the Flybus is fast, frequent & on schedule everyday of the week from Keflavík internationalairport to reykjavík city or vice versa.transfers from all major hotels & guesthousesin reykjavík to Keflavík airport – for our veryflexible schedule kindly consult our brochures.Húsafell • 311 Borgarbyggð+354 895 1342sveitasetrid@simnet.isnoneFor our flexibleschedule scanthe QR codeBSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík580 5400 • main@re.is • www.flybus.isOTravel AgencyAuthorised byIcelandic Tourist BoardGallery LundiLovely hand crafted, artisanal items of glass,wood, hand-knit woolen sweaters, scarves,mittens, leather bags, jewellery and more.The gallery is owned and staffed by a group oflocal artists who have been in business since 1997.Aðalgata 6a • 340 Stykkishólmur +354 893 5588Nesvegur 17 • 350 Grundafjörður +354 777 0611 Keflavíkurgata 1 • 360 Hellissandur +354 845 1780gallerIlundi@gmail.com +354 866 0228lavaland@lavaland.is www.lavaland.ismavur@mavur.iswww.mavur.isSea ToursDaily ferry crossings on Breiðafjörður Baybetween Stykkishólmur and SnæfellsnessPeninsula. Sea Tours ferry, Baldur, with itsonboard restaurant is a great way to discoverthe pure magic of Snæfellnes Peninsula.LavalandHandmade jewelry proudly made in Iceland.Melted lava from Eyjafjallajökull glacieris combined with silver to make simple,outstanding and unique jewelry.MávurFully equipped,fully furnishedaccommodation,located on the tip ofSnæfellsnes Peninsula, with magnificentviews to the sea and glacier.we‘ll taKeyou there!all the most excitingplaces in icelandexperiencea great daywith us!discover all the magical places notto be missed when in iceland:beautiful nature, multicoloredmountains, fertile farmlands,stunning views, plummetingwaterfalls, natural wonders andgeological phenomena.Book now at your receptionBook now by calling 580 5450Book now on www.re.isNature and bird watching toursGourmet tours with fresh scallop tastingsTours to Flatey IslandSmiðjustígur 3 • 340 Stykkishólmur +354 433 2254seatours@seatours.iswww.seatours.ismore detailson toursin our brochuresBSÍ Bus Terminal101 Reykjavík580 5400main@re.iswww.re.isTravel Agency64 www.icelandictimes.com

Home in the WestThe place to stay in the heart of the Snæfellsnes peninsulaOn a clear day, the entire Snæfellsnespensinsula can be seen from Reykjavík.Only 100 km away from the capital, thepeninsula has some of Iceland’s most impressivesights caught in time, lava fields, volcanos,rough cliffs and the mystical Snæfellsjökull.To explore all of these and more of what thepeninsula has to offer, Kast Guesthouse in theheart of Snæfellsnes, offers a lovely place to stay.Welcome to the familyLydia Fannberg Gunnarsdóttir, theguesthouse manager, started to build it as asummer house for her family on her father’sland at Lýsudalur farm in Staðarsveit. Theproject kept on growing bigger and bigger, soshe decided to open the doors to the public.So in 2011, Kast guesthouse was opened andsince then, Lydia and her family have sharedthe beauty of their land. Lydia’s father canlead you on horseback riding tours whichyou can book right in the guesthouse lobby.In the heart of natureLocated at the foot of a mountain, the nameof the hotel comes from the green meadowbehind, where the mares often go to casttheir foals. There is nothing here separatingyou from the nature. If you enjoy fishing,pick one of the small lakes just across theroad from the house. Only 2 minutesaway, you can have a relaxing bath in theswimming pool at the Lýsuhóll communitycentre. It is renowned for the nutrient richmineral water and its effect on the skin.Camp at the foot of the mountainThey also run a campsite in the peacefulshelter of the mountain. It is fully equippedand you can always enjoy a fresh meal in theguesthouse. Breakfast buffet is included forthe travellers staying at the guesthouse andfor those with a sweet tooth, there are alwayshome baked goodies like snuður, ostaslaufaor bananakökur, as Lydia’s brother is a baker.Close to everything you want to see“There is so much to do in this area”, says Lydia.In just 20 minutes, you are at the bottom of theSnæfells mountain and only 20 km away liethe fishing villages of Arnarstapi and Hellnarwith breathtaking cliffs, home to several birdspecies like seagulls, fulmars, kittiwakes orthe agressive artic terns. Drive 60 km towardsthe North and you’ll find the picturesqueStykkisholmur. From there you can takeseveral sea tours tailored to diverse tastes: birdwatching, sea angling or gourmet tours withfresh scallops just caught from the sea.Kast guesthouse offers 16 double rooms and arestaurant that welcomes up to 50 people. Groupsbigger than 10 people get a 15% discount. You canbook online or just show up. Ekkert mál!Kast Guesthouse–abLýsudal • 356 Snæfellsbæ+354 421 5252kast@kastguesthouse.iswww.kastguesthouse.isA Touch of the InternationalRestaurant Gilið, an innovative family owned restaurantAlong the coast of the magicalSnaefellsnes Peninsula, many charmingfishing villages catch the attention of travellers.Among the more arresting is Ólafsvík andthere, nestled beside a trickling brook andoverlooking the sea, Restaurant Gilið offerstraditional Icelandic food with a creative,sophisticated international touch. Fresh fishand Icelandic lamb are the chef’s specialitiesbut here they excel at making every morselfrom scratch. This gourmet restaurant in asmall village by the sea is open for lunch anddinner, while in the afternoon, a thirsty guestcan enjoy a cup of coffee accompanied by someof the tasty pastries they serve there.Ambitious cuisineThe restaurant family owned. Chef AxelAxelsson and his wife both cook and sheserves as headwaiter as well. They openedthe restaurant two years ago and have sinceserved food and entertainment in equalmeasure. They get fresh fish daily directlyfrom the harbour. The chef has lived inCalifornia and his cuisine is inspired by theinfluences he soaked up while staying inthat sunny place. Ambitiously, all food hereis hand-made even the dough for the bread.The kitchen opens at 11 am. A lunchbuffet with a varied and great choice ofdishes and soups is available till 4 pm.Dinner, however, begins at 6 pm and ends at10 pm. Two course meals are served all dayand the daily menu offers a choice betweenthe catch of the day or meat. Accessing onese-mail over a steaming cup of coffee, whilesavouring the refreshments is easy since therestaurant offers a free WIFI connection.Cosy Wooden CabinThe restaurant is situated in a big woodcabin with a huge terrace. It is warm andfriendly on the inside and the breathtakingview from the terrace makes it a popularseating area on warm summer days. Withits tables for four, it makes for an enjoyable,intimate setting for a delicious meal.Every weekend, the restaurant is filledwith live music by local groups who reallymake the place hop.–ssGilið RestaurantGrundarbraut 2 • 355 Ólafsvík+354 436 130066 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 67gilid@gilid.iswww.gilid.is

Iceland’s first settlerFind the furtive little arctic fox in Súðavík in the West FjordsThe arctic fox is an enchanting creature.At some point in the distant past, ittravelled across the frozen sea and, inspite of the inhospitable climate, founda home on this small, isolated island. Thearctic fox is Iceland’s only native terrestrialland mammal and has been the subject ofcuriosity by scholars and lay people alike.For this reason, The Arctic Fox Centre wasestablished in the village of Súðavík in 2010,which is well fitting since the fox is the area’sdistinctive animal.Exhibition of the first nativeThe Centre is located in the oldest housein Súðavík, a 120 year old farm that wasrenovated by the local authorities and issituated between what locals call the ‘oldvillage’, destroyed in a devastating avalanchein 1995, and the ‘new village’, built in itsstead at a safe distance from the mountain.The Centre serves as an educationaland cultural hub and offers an extensiveexhibition on the arctic fox as well asregularly exhibiting local art and craft. Itsmain aim however, is to collect and preserveanything of importance regarding the arcticfox and its long-lasting relationship withman as, surprisingly, fox hunting is theoldest paid operation in Iceland.The exhibition is divided into three sections;the biology of the fox, the hunting of the foxand the hunters themselves, the last mentionedcontaining, for example, objects and personalaccounts from fox hunters. Other material ispresented through written text or video andof course there are quite a few stuffed animals.Visitors are guided through the exhibition,which is one of a kind in Iceland and openall year round. The Centre is a non-profitbusiness, involved in research and studieson the population of the fox. They also offerguidance on arctic fox tours in collaborationwith tourist offices as well as believing in andsupporting ecotourism in Iceland.A nice little café is run at the Centre,selling homebaked pastries, light coursesand wonderful coffee which guests can enjoyout on the patio, overlooking the beautifulmountains and the sea. The Café has an openInternet access. On Friday nights, live musicis performed in the loft, where it’s nice to sitdown for a drink in the cosy atmosphere.The Centre also has a small boutique sellingspecially made souvenirs and craftwork.–hþThe Arctic Fox CenterEyrardal • 420 Súðavík+354 456 4922melrakki@melrakki.iswww.melrakki.isAdventure at SeaGo fishing in the West Fjords waters with Icelandic Sea AnglingThe region of Vestfjörður in northwestIceland is a world of rugged beauty.Imagine a region where majestic mountains,intimidating and wildly exhilarating toexplore with the naked eye, and the ice-coldNorth Atlantic Ocean meet…leaving but anarrow platform for human existence.For centuries, the brave seamen facedthe wrath of the sea to provide for theirfamilies on shore. In winters, often fearingfor their lives, they faced violent waves thatdwarfed their little boats as they rowed outfrom the fjords or on calm summer days,heaved a sigh of relief as they set out.BjarkarholtGuest House & AppartmentsLocated at Barðaströnd in the Westfjords,15 kmfrom the ferry at Brjánslækur. Made up beds andsleeping bag accommodation in 4 self-cateringapartments, 100m walk to the local swimmingpool, beautiful views over Breiðafjörður andchoice of many scenic walks in the area.bjarkarholt@bjarkarholt.iswww.bjarkarholt.isHeydalurTravel & Accommodation ServicesCome and relax in the countryside of Heydalurin Northwest Iceland. We offer the best ofhotels, camping, horse riding, hot tubs, kayakrentals, fishing, hiking and more.Heydalur - Mjóifjörður • www.heydalur.isTo the owners of Iceland Sea Angling,fishing continues to be a way of life inthe twenty-first century.It was in 2006 when the adventurebegan with 5 boats in Tálknafjörður and 7in Súðavík. After only six years in the seaangling business, the company fleet hasexpanded dramatically with the additionof 9 boats in Bolungarvík.With accommodation available in allthree communities, sea angling in the Greatfjords of Vestfjörður is an exciting Icelandicexperience no spirited traveller should miss.Steinhúsið - modern accommodationin a house from another era.A day spent at sea, with the occasional slapof salted sea water and the loud calls ofseabirds, is a proper Icelandic adventure.Guided tours are available in German,English and Icelandic.Iceland Sea AnglingWest Tours of ÍsafjörðurExperience the variety of adventurein the Northwest. Fishing, hiking,horseback riding, kayaking, quad,seaangling trips, customized packagetours, bicycle and scooter tours andmuch more fun, you can book with us!+354 456 2025Aðalstræti 7 • 400 Ísafirði+354 849 0820 westtours@westtours.isHolmavik’s Harbour HouseHöfðagata 1 • 510 Hólmavíksteinhusid@steinhusid.is+354 456-5111www.westtours.is–jbAdalgata 2 • 420 Súðavík+354 456 1540icelandseaangling@icelandseaangling.iswww.icelandseaangling.is+354 856 1911www.steinhusid.is68 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 69

Most of the guestsstaying at Hótel Djupavík are in search of anature experience. Many walk from one fjordto another but others use cars, kayaks or boatsto get from place to place. Eva and Asbjörnprovide guidance and advice on what to seeand how to get there along with comfort andrest after a long day’s exploration.Trolling the WestfjordsLiving Legends in DrangsnesAccording to an old Icelandic folk tale,the Westfjords were nearly separatedfrom Iceland by a relentless trio of trolls,furiously digging away at the narrow stripof soil fanning off to form the Westfjords.One troll woman competing against herconspirators realised that her monumentaltask would not be accomplished andslammed the spade of her shovel down ina rage, breaking off a chunk of land withher ox on it, thus forming Grimsey, thesmall island near Drangsnes and home tothe world’s most concentrated puffin colony.Though the trolls were unsuccessful inbreaking off the Westfjords, the choppycoastline of a tiny fishing village calledDrangsnes at the far end of Steingrimsfjorðurbears marks of the troll woman’s handiwork.Her grim profile, transformed into stone by thefirst rays of sunlight, watches over Grimsey.Happy accidents have helped Drangsnesboth in legend and reality. A source ofgeothermal water was discovered whensomeone forgot to shut off the watersupply feeding into the fish factory. Whenthe town furiously sought water by boringholes, they struck geothermal gold: a hotwater source that now heats the entirevillage and provides free hot tubs on thebeach from where visitors watch birdlife,seals and, occasionally, whales. Largestones sheltering them from strong coastalwinds have teardrops carved in them,created by artist Mireyja Samper.An annual festival, held in the middleof July, celebrates Drangsnes’ livelihoodby tickling the palette with tastes of minkewhale, puffin, seal, and a wide variety offish from the fjord. Kids and adults cantry their hand at sea-angling, while bravervisitors attempt to swim through strongcurrents to Grimsey. The festival has steadilyexpanded over sixteen years of celebrationand has grown to host thousands of people.The festival is run entirely by volunteerswho pour into Drangsnes to help the 65townspeople prepare to receive guests.Drangsnes has a long relationship withvolunteers who have travelled to help notonly with the festival, but with variousprojects such as building the communitycentre. “Cooperation is an importantpart of life here,” says Jenny Jensdóttir,“without it we couldn’t survive.”Too bad the legendary trolls were too busyto realize this. Perhaps if they had adoptedthe spirit of Drangsnes’ residents, they wouldbe floating on an island called Westfjordsrather than sitting in stony silence.–kbKaldrananeshreppurHoltagata • 520 Drangsnes+354 451 3277drangsnes@drangsnes.iswww.drangsnes.isA Nature ParadiseHótel Djúpavík, comfort and care at the edge of the worldUntouched nature and interestinghistory are among the attractions ofDjúpavík at Strandir. In this remote part ofIceland, a special breed of people found away to live off the land and, when all thefjords were filled with herring, this quietcove became important in the hunt for the‘silver of the sea’. Now it is a paradise forwalkers and nature lovers who fill up HótelDjúpavík from early spring till autumn.Old factory and dormitoryHótel Djúpavík was established in 1985when Eva Sigurbjörnsdóttir and herhusband Ásbjörn Þorgilsson, decidedto cultivate guests rather than fish. “Wehad planned to start a fish farm but wereunable to get a loan from the bank,”says Eva. “We had bought the women’sdormitory along with the old herringfactory and the hotel started there.”Iceland’s Oldest Country HotelHotel Bjarkalundur is at the entrance to the West FjordsUnder the majestic Vaðalfjöllmountain, with its two distinctivetops of volcanic basalt plugs, nestlesBjarkalundur, the oldest country hotel inIceland. Surrounded by an ancient birchwood, the hotel’s immediate environmentis friendly and welcoming. This historic andpopular resting spot has served Icelandersand foreign guests for sixty-five years.A World ApartBjarkalundur is conveniently located to stopfor a breather before entering Iceland’s mostremote region, the West Fjords. The hotel has,throughout its history, welcomed guests andmade them comfortable. In the past, danceswere held during the summer months andstill the Midsummer Night bonfire is anevent frequented by locals and travellers alike.A Historical ExhibitionThe Herring Factory is now the site ofDjúpavík’s Historical Exhibition whereold photographs and texts lead viewersthrough the life and times of people inthis quiet cove at the edge of the world.–jbHótel DjúpavíkThe Western Fjords are a world apart, asreflected in the folk tale of the trolls who triedto dig this mountainous peninsula away fromthe mainland to establish a troll colony, free ofmen and their meddling. The landscape is amixture of deep narrow fjords, high mountainsand luscious green plants. Tall cliffs, teemingwith birdlife rise sharply from the deep blue sea.Enjoy a respite at Bjarkalundur beforeand after experiencing the amazing charmof the West Fjords and their people. Youwill find it just off Road 60.–SsHótel BjarkalundurDjúpavík • 524 Árneshreppur+354 451 4037Bjarkalundi • 380 Reykhólahreppi+354 434 7762bjarkalundur@bjarkalundur.iswww.bjarkalundur.is70 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 71djupavik@snerpa.iswww.djupavik.com

The Wonderfulwild northwestThe wildlife wilderness of Húnaþing vestra beckons those with a love of the outdoorsHúnaþing vestra, on the northwestcoast of Iceland, is a region renownedfor its amazing wildlife and natural beauty.Consequently, each year, thousands oftourists visit the area to enjoy the outdoorsand experience the best of the Icelandicwilderness. Húnaþing vestra also offers bothaccommodation and recreation.Beauty on the grand scaleThe mesmerizing landscape alone is reasonenough for spending a good part of yourtrip in the region, as some of Iceland’s moststunning natural wonders can be found there.The imposing Hvítserkur is without a doubtthe area’s most distinct symbol. A 15 m highmonolith and home to numerous bird species,it rises from the sea of Húnafjörður fjördresembling a giant, prehistoric monster wadingout to the shores that brim with life as one ofthe largest seal habitats in the country.Húnaþing vestra is the home of threeof the most abundant salmon rivers in thecountry and has a varied birdlife, attractingever more birdwatchers each year.The region’s beauty, displayed in its grassyheaths, majestic mountains, pillar rocks andsparkling lakes and rivers, truly sums upthe uniqueness of Icelandic nature. Its vastheathlands contain the largest untouchedwetlands in Iceland, very popular forangling and birdwatching. From there youcan drive into the highlands, though theroads are only traversable by large jeeps.Kolugljúfur, a magnificent canyonthrough which the Víðidalsá river runs andnamed after the giantess Kola, is anotherunforgettable site. The river pours over twospectacular waterfalls named Kolufossar.Borgvirki fort is a 10–15 m high columnarbasalt formation, believed to be an old sceneof battle and a fort for the district. There’san observation platform at it’s top and abreathtaking view over the Húnaflói Bay.Leisure and activityWalking, hiking and riding paths have beenlaid systematically over the last years, makingthe area easily accessible. Additionally,information signs have been put up andpanoramic viewpoints created to enrichvisitors’ experience of the area even further.Seals biggest attractionEvery year, travellers flock to thebeautiful Vatnsnes peninsula, cameras inhand, to observe these adorable creaturesand their offspring, rolling around on theshores and playing in the sea.Húnaþing Vestra is without a doubt one ofthe best spots in Iceland for viewing seals, themain locations being Svalbarð, Illugastaðirand Ósar. There aren’t many places wherethese beautiful animals can be viewed insuch closeness in their natural environment,so this is an experience bound to captivateboth young and old alike. You can also goseal-watching and sea-angling on a boat fromHvammstangi and a midnight fishing trip insummer is something you won’t forget!A Rich History and CultureThe region’s cultural history is no lessinteresting than it’s natural surroundings.This is the birthplace of one of Iceland’s mostnotorious heroes from the old sagas, Grettirthe Strong. The beloved poet Skálda-Rósa,of the 19 th century, lived and wrote her mostfamous poems here. There are also variousfarmers markets, museums and exhibitionsof interest, cultural as well as educational. Inspite of it’s small population of around 1,200,Húnaþing vestra has a remarkably high servicestandard and is bursting with life and activity.Service and accommodationYou’ll find accomodation in all price ranges inHúnaþing vestra. There are several excellentcamping sites to choose from, situated inHvammstangi, Sæberg and Laugarbakki. Theholiday farm, Dæli in Víðidalur, also has acamp site in addition to it’s lovely guesthouse,hot pot, sauna and mini golf course. Otheraccommodation possibilities include bothguesthouses in Hvammstangi and the highlyrated Hótel Edda in Laugarbakki.Gauksmýri in Línakradalur is anotherplace of note. It’s a beautiful farm that has,in recent years, carried out the ambitiousproject of reclaiming the area’s wetland andputting up facilities for birdwatching, as wellas running a horse rental and a restaurant.Brekkulækur in Miðfjörður has also beenoffering riding tours and accommodation foryears and is an ever popular stop for travellers.Ósar on the Vatnsnes peninsula, situatedright by Hvítserkur, is a popular hostel anda great spot for viewing seals.The Icelandic Seal Centre in Hvammstangiis a highly informative research centre anda museum that has an ongoing exhibitionand is well worth a visit. Other museumsof note are Reykir Regional Museum inHrútafjörður and the Commercial Museumin Hvammstangi, which both offerinteresting exhibitions about the area. Alsobe sure not to miss the inspiring Bardúsacraft gallery in Hvammstangi. Unwindingin the town’s swimming pool after aneventful day is a must.Húnaþing vestra–hþHvammstangabraut 5 • 530 Hvammstanga+354 455 240072 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com73alla@hunathing.iswww.hunathing.is

Land of the SealsThe Ultimate Seal-Watching Destination • www.visithunathing.isGistiheimli Hönnu SigguA cosy and homey quiet accommodation.Bright, spacious rooms with good quality beds.Beautiful views over the town and the fjord.Attractive garden with hot tub and panoramic view.Organic breakfast with home baked bread.Fully equipped kitchen. Meals up on request.Garðavegur 26 • 530 Hvammstangi +354 451 2407gistihs@simnet.iswww.simnet.is/gistihsSpes Farmers MarketA fascinating market with local foodseg. fresh, smoked and dried fish, cheeseand jams, handicrafts and special craftscreated using ancient Viking methods andmaterials gleaned from the area.Grettisból • 531 Hvammstangi +354 894 6776spes.sveitamarkadur@gmail.com www.northwest.is/spes.aspIllugastaðir Farm CaféOne of the best seal watching spots inIceland. Walking paths in proximity to thesea with beautiful views and opportunitiesto observe seals in their natural habitat. Hotdrinks and light meals available at the café.Vatnsnes• 531 Hvammstangi +354 451 2775kidkaThe Wool Factory ShopThe Wool Factory Shop enables youto buy directly from the people whomake traditional natural Icelandicwool products and ornaments inoriginal colours.Höfðabraut 34 • 530 Hvammstangi +354 451 0060 kidka@simnet.is www.kidka.comKirkjuhvammurCamp Site in HvammstangiOnly 6 km from Road No. 1. The site islocated in a sheltered dell just outsidethe town, with service centre and goodfacilities for campers and trailers.Season: May 15th - September 15thKirkjuhvammi • 530 Hvammstangihvammur.camping@gmail.com+354 615 3779+354 899 0008SealwatchingA treat for children and adults alike to take an unforgettable seal watching tour where you get thechance to observe the seals in their natural habitat close up at one of the best seal watching locationsin Iceland. The seals are playful and curious by nature and often swim quite close to the boat to get abetter look at you. Then it is a question who is watching whom? Amazing photo opportunities.Departures at 10:00, 13:00 and 16:00—Duration 1 hour 45 mins.Hvammstangi Harbour +354 897 9900 selasigling@simnet.is www.sealwatching.is194 km fromReykjavik onRoad No. 1The Folk Museum of ReykirOn display are a number of famous old boatsand ships, amongst them the famous shark shipÓfeigur from Ófeigsfjörður. We also show howIcelanders used to live by displaying the livingarrangements of an old house named Syðsti-Hvammur, which used to be near Hvammstangi.Many spectacular 19th - 20th Century piecesare found inside the museum. New & excitingcrafts from the local community will be onsale at the museum. On-site restaurant.Reykjagata 6 • 500 Staðurreykjsafn@simnet.is+354 451 0040www.byggdasafnhos.isHoliday cottagesRestaurant for60 peopleDouble & familyrooms with or withoutprivate facilitiesCamp site with afully-equippedservice houseFishingpermits can bearrangedDæli Holiday FarmAccomodation, Camping, Restaurant & BarDæli • 531 Hvammstangi +354 451 2566 daeli@daeli.is www.daeli.isMini-golf • Hot Pot • SaunaGeitafellWhatever you do at Vatnsnes don’tmiss dining at Geitafell seafoodrestaurant. There you can taste ourdelicious vegetable and seafoodsoups, served with locally grownsalads and homemade bread.Vatnsnesi • 530 Hvammstangi +354 861 2503info@geitafell.iswww.geitafell.isGauksmýri LodgeHoliday services emphasisingnature and horsemanship. Withaccommodation, refreshments,horse-rental, horse shows andbird watching.Gauksmýri • 531 Hvammstanga +354 451 2927gauksmyri@gauksmyri.is www.gauksmyri.isHlaðanCafé & Restaurant & BarHlaðan is a cosy café, restaurant andbar specialising in Icelandic homecooking. It’s novel location is in anold restored house that used to bestables and a cow shed, in the centreof Hvammstangi overlooking theharbour and the seashore.Brekkugata 2 • 530 Hvammstangi+354 451 1110hladan@simnet.is74 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 75

Gateway to the Vatnsnes PeninsulaThe Icelandic Seal Centre at HvammstangiThe Icelandic Seal Centre of Hvammstangi,the gateway to the picturesque VatnsnesPeninsula, provides the perfect starting pointfor the exploration of this outstandinglybeautiful but little-visited corner of NorthWest Iceland. Heralded as the ultimateseal-viewing destination in Iceland, theVatnsnes Peninsula offers visitors a uniqueopportunity to observe both harbour sealsand grey seals in their natural habitats. Andwhat a better way to learn about these gentlecreatures than a stop at the Icelandic SealCentre in Hvammstangi? Now operatingin its new 280m 2 premises, the centremulti-tasks as a museum, research centreand tourist information desk, all under oneroof. Through its varied educational exhibitsand cultural displays that include sealfolklore, the centre offers a comprehensiveview of seals in Iceland, their role andimportance in Icelandic history and presentday sustainability issues surrounding thissometimes controversial marine mammal.At the tourist information desk, visitors canbook seal watching tours, either on land orby sea, as well as accommodation in the area.Established in 2005, the centre is dedicated toongoing seal research, educational outreachand the promotion of sustainable tourism,particularly as it pertains to seal populationsin and around the Vatnsnes Peninsula.Selasetur Íslands–emvStrandgötu 1 • 530 Hvammstanga+354 451 2345info@selasetur.iswww.selasetur.isEat IcelandicHome cooking right on the Ring RoadVíðigerði guesthouse is one of themost conveniently located andaffordable accommodations in Icelandset just on the left side of the main ringroad, past Hvammstangi. On the upperfloor it has 8 double rooms that shareprivate facilities and on the lower floor,a diner and a small store selling snacksand various goods. This summer therewill be a fenced off playground in theback garden as well as tables for diningor having a drink outside.The owner, Karen, who runs theguesthouse with her husband and daughter,says that in her experience, tourists reallylove Icelandic food and therefore shewants to give guests a taste of the wayIcelanders eat at home. For breakfast, sheserves popular Icelandic milk products likeskyr as well as toast and cereal. She usesingredients from local farmers and thenearby regions for her cooking that consistsof classic national dishes, like fish withbutter and potatoes and the ever popularmeat-soup which will be served every daythis summer. Made from lamb and freshvegetables it’s as wholesome as it is tastyand just about everybody’s favourite dish.Prices are more than reasonable sinceKaren is determined to make Víðigerðia place where families can come and eata good meal without much expense. Shealso has offers for groups.Víðigerði–hþVíðigerði • 531 Hvammstanga+354 451 2592vidigerdi@vidigerdi.iswww.vidigerdi.is76 www.icelandictimes.com

to promote textile art anddesign. It has an ongoing project whichinvolves creating an embroidered tapestrydepicting a stormy family saga from thearea, written in the 13 th century.A River runs through itBlönduós, the Town by the BayBlönduós, on the northwest coast, isin a beautiful situation on the banksof Húnaflói bay. The town is named afterthe river Blandá, one of the largest fishingrivers in the country, which runs throughthe town all the way from Hofsjökullglacier and into Húnaflói Bay.One of the area’s most treasured locationsis Hrútey, a small protected island whichlies in Blandá. Hrútey is accessible by afootbridge and is a wonderful place to spendthe day hiking and picnicking. There’s a richbirdlife on the island and therefore it’s closedbetween April 20 th and June 20 th for theprotection of the nesting and eggs.a kind in the country and give a fascinatinginsight into the nation’s history and way of life.The Icelandic Salmon CentreThe town’s proximity to one of the bestsalmon rivers in Iceland and the popularityof fishing as a sport has led to the foundationof The Icelandic Salmon Centre which opensin the beginning of June, 2012. The centrewill provide an extensive background of thebiology and habitats of the salmon as well astheir part in Icelandic food culture and thehistory of salmon fishing. The exhibition issure to be both educational and entertainingand has a special area for children.The Textile MuseumThe Textile Museum was originally foundedby the Women’s Union and is housed in theold handcraft college. In 2003, it moved toa beautiful new house, specially designedfor it’s ambitious operation. It’s a uniquemuseum that celebrates the artistry ofwomen’s handcraft and has an impressivecollection of homemade wool and textileitems as well as beautiful Icelandic nationalcostumes, artistic embroideries andmany of the tools and equipment used toproduce them. It also exhibits the work ofcontemporary textile designers.The Sea Ice Exhibition CentreThrough the ages, the people of the northcoast of Iceland have had to deal withthe difficulties stemming from sea ice,the very thing which gave the country itsname. The Sea Ice Exhibition Centre offersvisitors an understanding of this naturalphenomena and it’s impact on people’slives in the northern regions.Unique museumsBlönduós especially prides itself on foursplendid museums, some of which are one ofThe Icelandic Textile CentreThe Icelandic Textile Centre is located in theold Women’s Handcraft College and worksAmenities in BlönduósBlönduós has a good camping area,guesthouses and a hotel as well as severalrestaurants and cafés and there are plentyof recreation opportunities. You’ll also findhorse rental, a small golf course and anexcellent swimming pool with hot tubs, awaterslide and a kids’ pool.–hþBlönduósbærHnjúkabyggð 33 • 540 Blönduós+354 455 4700on websitewww.blonduos.isOpening hours 11:00-18:00Lækjargata 4 • Tel. +354 55 10 100 • jomfruin@jomfruin.iswww.jomfruin.is78 www.icelandictimes.com

Soothsayer’sMountainMagician meets MissionarySpákonufellshöfði, generally calledHöfðinn (The Cape), rises west ofSkagaströnd village and offers a variety ofeasy hiking routes. Höfðinn is a populardestination for people wanting to enjoythe beautiful outdoors where the ocean,various bird species and the majestic circleof mountains embrace the senses.A History of Magic and MissionSpákonufellshöfði is an ancient name.Spákonufell, meaning Soothsayer’sMountain is a 646 m high mountainrising just above the town. Both namesare connected with the Spákonufell farm,which was located at the foothills of themountain for centuries.The name’s origins can be traced back tothe 10 th century when Þórdís the soothsayer(Þórdís spákona), said to be skilled in bothmagic and magical arts, lived on Fell farm.Vatnsdælasaga (Saga of Vatnsdælir) describesher as a great and intelligent woman.Later, both the farm and the Spákonufellmountain were named after her.Þórdís was, among other things, known forfostering Iceland’s first missionary, ÞorvaldurKoðránsson, later named Þorvaldur víðförli(Þorvaldur the travelled). He was describedas a healthy and brave man who earned therespect of heathens, which enabled him towork on evangelisation in Iceland from 981– 986. A monument of Þorvaldur víðförliis situated close to his birth place, Stóra-Giljá, at the junction of Road No.1 andSvínvetningabraut (Road 731).–hþa summerGarden for the BirdsThe Fulmar is a large gull-like seabird, seen at The Snipe is a migrant on Skagaströnd,Skagaströnd from January to October, usually arriving in early April and leaving in October.in flight offshore or foraging on fish offal, A few pairs breed on Spákonufellshöfði. Thesometimes in large numbers. It is distributed Snipe circles over its territory with a constantall around Iceland, and has spread inland, “drumming” sound, which is very conspicuous.sometimes tens of kilometres from the sea. The Great Black-backed Gull is seen all yearThe Common Eider is seen around around Skagaströnd, though it is most commonthe coast all year round and 20-30 pairs during winter. The very similar Lesser BlackbackedGull is a migrant and is common duringbreed in Spákonufellshöfði. A rather largecolony is found at Finnstaðanes, a short summer. A few pairs of both species breed in thedistance north of Skagaströnd.northern part of Spákonufellshöfði.The Oystercatcher is a large, noisy wader. The Arctic Tern is a long distance migrant.Two to four pairs breed on gravel and sandy It migrates to the South Atlantic in winterland. A migratory bird, it is seen from late to the seas around Antarctica before flyingMarch to the beginning of September. north again, leaving Iceland in Septemberand returning at the end of April/beginningof May. It seeks food on the shore and shallowareas of the sea. A few dozen pairs breed onSpákonufellshöfði, around Vækilvík.The Black Guillemot is a former breeder onSpákonufellshöfði. It can be seen all year round,often in winter in the Skagaströnd harbour.The Raven is the only member of thecrow family breeding in Iceland. One pairbreeds in Spákonufellshöfi, but it is seen inthe area the whole year.–jóhSveitarfélagið SkagaströndTúnbraut 1-3 • 545 Skagaströnd+354 455 2700skagastrond@skagastrond.iswww.skagastrond.is82 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com83

When the Icelandic traveller thinksof Skagafjörður, what undoubtedlycomes to mind is the steep, picturesque cliffof Drangey, which towers majestically inthe midst of the big fjord from which thedistrict derives its name. Resulting fromcountless references to Drangey both inhistory and culture, this small island isfirmly embedded in the Icelandic psyche.Secondly, what comes to mind is theIcelandic horse. Skagafjörður is an importantbreeding place for this beautiful, humbleservant that enabled people to survivethroughout the centuries in harsh conditions.These two distinctive features frame thedifferent possibilities Skagafjörður has to offer;an area of natural wonders and an abundanceof cultural and recreational activities.An important historical areaSkagafjörður is a municipality in the Northof Iceland which covers the area from mostof the penisulas creating the fjord itself tothe broad valley that bears the name of thefjord and goes all the way to the highlands.Thus, it is an area of great natural variety withsteep mountains, fertile inlands and a variedHorses, History and NatureSkagafjörður – Diverse Nature, Great Adventures and Historical Experiencescoastal environment. The biggest town ofSkagafjörður is Sauðakrókur with the villageof Hofsós and other smaller villages.Skagafjörður could also be said to bethe centre of a historic circle rangingfrom Blönduós, west of Skagafjörður toSiglufjörður in the north and Akureyri inthe east. Hólar í Hjaltadal, the old bishopricof the North, in fact used to be the mostimportant in the North. Many who servedas bishops of the North are arguably some ofIceland’s most important figures.Sites of InterestThe battle of Örlygsstaðir, the biggest battlein the history of Iceland also took place inSkagafjörður, when the great families in theage of Sturlungs fought. Historic facts such asthese can be learned in Skagafjörður throughvarious museums and places of historicimportance. For example, the turf farmhouseat Glaumbær shows clearly how life used tobe in rural Iceland; the Minjahúsið museumin Sauðarkrókur is unique for showinghow artisans’ workshops used to be andthe Icelandic Emigration Centre in Hofsósfocuses on the mass emigration from Icelandto North-America in the 19th century.The bad need somewhere to beThis cliff in Skagafjörður certainly has amystic character to it. According to oldfolktales, the cliff itself is an old femaletroll who turned to stone at daybreak whiletraversing the fjord as trolls can’t handlesunlight. Grettir, in the famous Icelandicsaga bearing his name, was an extremelystrong but ill-tempered man, who ended hisdays in Drangey as an outlaw.One of the historic bishops at Hólar,Guðmundur the Good decided he was goingto bless all of Iceland by ridding the land ofvile beings. But once, as he hung from thecliffs of Drangey, to expedite this work, thestory says that a big hand came out of thecliff and grabbed him. He heard a voice say,“the bad ones need somewhere to be.” Thebishop decided not to bless Drangey.This story does not frighten the locals,who go every Spring to collect eggs andbirds on the cliffs of Drangey.An inspiring way to enjoy waterBy Hofsós, you can find a great way to enjoythe view of Drangey. The new swimming poolis a masterpiece of design. Once you are in theswimming pool you get the impression that youare swimming to the sea and to Drangey whileswimming in the warm water of the pool.Skagafjörður has, in total, seven poolsacross the area as well as various hotsprings to bath in, the most famous onebeing Grettislaug at Reykir.Being in nature among horses and birdsSkagafjörður is a fitting place to enjoy horses.Not only do the various horse-riding companiesin the area provide a varitey of trips but youcan also visit a breeding farm, see horse showsand even experience a horse corral if you are inSkagafjörður at the right time of year!Skagafjörður is a nice area to explore onhorseback. There are many uninhabited placesnot too far from town providing you with thetranquility to enjoy nature. Whether you likea short trip, or a multi-day excursion to thehighlands, you will be able to experience it here.There are various other ways to enjoy thenature of Skagafjörður; watching and listeningto the rich birdlife, pumping some adrenalinein your body by river rafting in the glacialrivers, hike the various trails in the area or sailon a boat to Drangey and Málmey.At the end of a day, you can visit one ofthe many restaurants in the area servinghigh-quality food made under the FoodChest concept, which encourages theeating of local produce.Whether you are travelling with thewhole family, by yourself or with yourpartner or friends, Skagafjörður hassomething for everybody!Skagafjörður–NHHSkagfirðingabraut 21 • 550 Saupakrókur+354 455 6000skagafjordur@skagafjordur.iswww.skagafjordur.is84 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 85

TreasureSkagafjörður’sTroveThe rich heritage of the past is preserved to be enjoyedSkagafjörður Heritage Museum hasexhibitions in four places: The old turfbuilding at Glaumbær, Heritage House inSauðárkrókur, Emigration Centre at Hofsósand The Icelandic Horse History Centre.Glaumbær turf farmhouse, with itsmany rooms, pieces of furniture andutensils is perhaps the most interestingexhibition for foreign visitors. “It is myfavourite because visitors can walk intothe building and explore each one of therooms and its contents,” says SigríðurSigurðardóttir, the chief curator ofSkagafjörður Heritage Museum.The Curator’s FavouritesThe Glaumbær turf farmhouse represents thefinal stage in the evolution of the Icelandicturf farmhouse, an evolution that is uniqueto Iceland. “The evolution of the Icelandicfarmhouse was influenced by the local lackof timber and its use to heat houses, the lackof locally available building material, andshortage of capital to spend on importedmaterials. Iceland is the only country in theworld where you’ll find a passage turf andstone house with A-framed wooden gableswith glass windows,” says Sigríður.The Sum is Greater than the PartsResearch plays an important role at theSkagafjörður Heritage Museum. “Wehave a wide range of expertise in differentfields. There’s a special department whichis dedicated specifically to preservation,restoration and research. Our research isprimarily archaeological and historicalin nature, which reflects the interestand education of the different specialistsworking here. The current staff includes twoarchaeologists, a geographer, and a historianwith further specialisations in humanosteology, philosophy and ethnography.Skagafjörður is a treasure trove when itcomes to heritage studies and we strive tomake our research available to laymen andspecialists alike. We’ve looked at diversetopics such as the health and diet of ancientpopulations, settlement development, thehistory and craft of turf building and thehistory and development of horse-gear toname but a few things,” says Sigríður.Four generations of watchmakersThe Heritage House in Sauðárkrókuris another one of Sigríður’s favouriteexhibitions within the museum. “Themuseum pays homage to blacksmiths,carpenters, saddle makers and watchmakers.Yes, you read correctly—watchmakers.The Danish king visited Iceland in 1907.Young J. Frank Michelsen was in the king’sentourage. He returned Sauðárkrókur in1909 where he set up a shop selling jewellery,clocks and watches. Today, the fourthgeneration of Michelsen watchmakers have ashop in Reykjavik where they sell their ownquality brand-name watches.Mommy! Look at the Polar Bear!A stuffed 2 metre-tall polar bear in a glasscage greets visitors at the Heritage Housein Sauðárkrókur. “Visitors love looking atit, especially the children,” says Sigríður.The 20 year-old male polar bear on displayswam to Iceland from Greenland in June2008. Sadly, it had to be put down afterit made a gesture to attack photographersand the general public who out of curiosityventured too close. “The interest in theanimal was quite understandable becausepolar bears are a rare sight in Iceland.”Opening hoursThe Heritage HouseOpen 13-19, 10th June-26th AugustGlaumbær FarmOpen 9-18, 1st June-10th September86 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com87Glaumbær–SHVGlaumbær • 551 Sauðárkrókur+354 453 6173bsk@skagafjordur.iswww.skagafjordur.is

Traditional Pastries and Local FoodÁskaffi Café at Glaumbær Folk MuseumHave you ever walked into a place andimmediately felt at home? Áskaffi coffeeshop and restaurant is one of those rare findswhich more and more people include as a partof their travels in the north of the country.Auður Herdís Sigurðardóttir has beenrunning Áskaffi since 2000. “I love what I doand do what I love,” she says. And it shows. Hercoffee shop is in an old wooden house with astone foundation which dates back to 1886. Itsfurniture and decorations match the period.Postcards with popular recipesAfter being inundated with requests forthe recipe for her Sherry cake for closeto two decades, Herdís finally found thesolution. She’s designed two postcardswith the recipe, one in English and one inGerman. “It’s a recipe which has belongedto the coffee shop since its opening,”Herdís says, and confesses that there’s realSherry in it—generously measured!Soups for Small GroupsTourist guides and their guests love Áskaffi’ssignature dishes which include seafoodsoup made with locally produced trout andlocally caught shrimp, and lamb soup madewith local lamb and vegetables. “The secretto success when making lamb soup is tofirst boil the meat and the bones togetherbefore adding the vegetables and removingthe bones,” says Herdís. Soups can beordered for groups of 10-40 at a time.Delicious Bread and PastriesDelicious pastries which, in essence, lookand taste the same as people used to servein Iceland between 1940-1960 are onoffer every day. There are kleinur–twisteddoughnuts, lagtertur–four layer white cakewith rhubarb jam, brúnkaka–four layerbrown cake, and soðbrauð–fried bread.The open sandwiches are made with freshlybaked bread served with simple but delicioustoppings–local smoked trout, for example.New in 2012Salting, smoking and pickling precededrefrigeration as a way to preserve food inIceland. This summer, Herdís offers a tasteof traditional food preserved in the oldstyle served on a plate which she designed.“The idea is to give our customers theopportunity to taste traditional salted,smoked and pickled food without havingto buy three separate dishes.” The platedesigned by Herdís is a souvenir and isincluded in the price.–shvÁskaffiHólar in HjaltadalSurrounded by Hiking Possibilites of all kindsHólar í Hjaltadal was the centre ofthe North during most of Iceland’shistory, holding the Northern bishop’s seatuntil 1798. Its own history is, furthermore,highly intertwined with education, asthere used to be a Latin school and aCathedral school there, which today hasbecome an agricultural college in Hólar.In this beautiful, historic spot, surroundedby forested hills, lives a close community of 200people, students and staff of the college. It is apopular stop for travelling Icelanders, whetherWe offer personal service and casual atmosphere in a small,comfortable, three star hotel. Hotel Varmahlíð has 19rooms with private facilities and is conveniently located byroute 1.Our Restaurant focuses on local cuisine from theSkagafjörður region and welcomes all travellers who want totry some tasty dishes from our menu.it is for accommodation,the swimming pool, the church, the IcelandicHorse History Centre or the restaurant.Exploring the various hiking routesaround Hólar is especially popular. In July,there will be two organised hiking toursfrom Hólar, both including accommodation,food, driving, access to swimming pool andguiding. The shorter one, which will takeplace 10 th –11 th July, is a one day tour andconsists of walking an old route over the heathof Heljardalur. This route used to be the maincross-over from Eyjafjörður and Akureyri tothe bishop’s seat and school at Hólar.The longer tour, 29 th -31 st July, actuallyconsists of three daytrips from Hólar, oneslightly lighter one while the other twoare refreshing walks to the neighbouringmountains, Grasárdalshnjúkur and Hólabyrða.After the walks, the hikers get the chance torelax stiff muscles in the swimming pool andenjoy the fine wining and dining at Hólar.Hólar–KBHótel Varmahlíð welcomes youCheck out ourwebsitewww.hotelvarmahlid.isfor onlinebookingHólar • 551 Sauðárkrókur+354 455 6333hildur@holar.iswww.holar.isSkagafjörðurwelcomes youall year round.Experiencesummer joy orwinter pleasureGlaumbær • 551 Varmahlíð+354 453 8855askaffi@askaffi.iswww.askaffi.is560 Varmahlíð, SkagafirðiSími: 453 8170 :: info@hotelvarmahlid.is :: www.hotelvarmahlid.is Tel.: +354 453 8170E-mail: info@hotelvarmahlid.iswww.hotelvarmahlid.is88 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 89

Tröllaskagi’sMystic BeautyThe beauty of the northern towns with their vibrant lifestyleTröllaskagi GuesthouseA homey guesthouse in Siglufjörður’s centre. All the rooms are spaciousand each room has a special character. There are 12 double rooms, 6singles and 4 triple rooms. The North restaurant and bar serves an á lacarte menu. It seats 100. The bar is open until 1 am each night.Lækjargötu 10 • 580 Siglufirði +354 467 2100 northhotels@northhotels.is www.northhotels.isTorgið RestaurantA cosy restaurant situated by Siglufjörður‘s main square renowned for making the best pizzasin Siglufjörður while offering a range of fast foods, soup, salad bar, coffee and cakes. The mostpopular dishes are the deepfried fish served with salad and chips and the chicken salad—grilledchicken breast mixed with fresh crisp lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes and bacon!AðalbakaríBakery is by the main square of SiglufjörðurGreat variety of freshly baked breads, buns,sandwiches, pastries and cakes along witha lunch menu with soups and pasta.Aðalgötu 32 • 580 Siglufirði +354 467 2323 Aðalgötu 28 • 580 Siglufirði +354 4671720Folk Music CenterIcelandic traditional music and danceFolk Music Festival July 4-8, 2012Opening hrs: 12-6 pm dailyJune-AugustNorðurgötu 1 • 580 Siglufirði +354 467 2300 www.folkmusik.isThe Herring MuseumThe Herring Era Museum in Siglufjörður isan award-winning museum bringing to lifethe ‘glory days’ of Iceland’s herring fishingindustry in three different buildings.Snorragötu 16 • 580 Siglufirð +354 467 1604 safn@sild.is www.sild.isAllinnAllinn restaurant specialisesin Icelandic home cookingand pizzas. It is situated in abeautifully restored houseoverlooking Siglufjörður’s mainsquare. It is reasonably pricedand suits people of all ages.Aðalgata 30 • 580 Siglufjörður +354 467 1111Eating at the End of the WorldThe bright yellow house is the restaurant and the red one, the café in SiglufjörðurSiglufjörður feels like it is as far north Hannes Boy is the bright yellow buildingas you can go. This former herring right on the harbour, just a few feet fromcentre is set in a beautiful fjord and is a the boats, landing their fresh fish. Inside, thevery popular place to hike from and enjoy wood-beamed restaurant, with its lanternthe extraordinary birdlife and nature. The wall lights, wooden tables and chairs ispristine beauty of the landscape is matched bright and cheerful. The menu includes fishonly by the atmosphere of the town, where and lamb and you’re guaranteed a deliciousthere is much to see and do.meal in the inspiring atmosphere of thisWhen you have built up a good appetite warm and welcoming fishing town.in the nature, you know you can dine at one If you’d rather have something lighter,of the best restaurants outside Reykjavik. the Kaffi Rauðka in the equally brightred building next door is your place. Thisis a lively place—especially on Friday andSaturday nights, with its live bands. It’s agreat spot for lunch, for getting to know thelocal people and enjoying their lifestyle.Rauðka–hþGránugata 5 • 580 Siglufjörður+354 467 1550raudka@raudka.iswww.raudka.is90 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 91

Outdoor Life to the FullAnyone who loves the outdoors will find all they can wish for in FjallabyggðYou would think that, as you get closerto the North Pole, all you would see issnow and desolation. In winter, possibly—only that just makes the snow sports all themore exciting with awesome ski slopes, skatingand snowmobiles and fishing through the ice.Fjallabyggð is almost as far north as youcan go. You feel like you’re at the end of theworld. Yet here, above Akureyri, the townsof Ólafsfjörður and Sigulfjörður are alivewith activity year round. They merged as onecounty in 2006 and, with the completionof the tunnel linking them that opened in2010, travel became much easier.Lively activities and long daysWith the Spring, everything is completelydifferent. The birds know it and fly in bydroves—followed by the experienced birdwatchers and photographers. The beautifulnature opens up to the hiking community,with a multitude of different hikes marked,with various degrees of difficulty. There is anexcellent map produced by the University ofHólar. The countryside is breathtaking in itsbeauty and is so easily accessible from thetwo towns. It’s a landscape of mountainsand valleys, streams, waterfalls and hiddenmeadows, lakes and black sand beaches,with picturesque vistas at every turn.The longer days make other activities bothpossible and really enjoyable—like takingmidnight sailing trips across the Arctic Circleor whalewatching from Ólafsfjörður. Fishing–whether from the harbour piers, on the lakes, inthe rivers and streams or out on the sea—is alsovery popular. Many visitors like to combinehiking, sailing, fishing or boating trips together,getting the most out of their days.There are two 9-hole golf courses, whereyou can play under the midnight sun andtwo swimming pools, with jacuzzis to relaxin after a day’s hike.There are plenty of different types ofaccomodation and restaurants, fast-food andcafés with live music in both towns to suitevery taste as the people here love to enjoy life.Centre of CultureFjallabyggð has made up for their relativeisolation by investing in cultural activities.There is a rich heritage of award-winningmuseums like the Herring Museum, the FolkSummer Festivals in the Tröllaskagi areaBlue North Music Festival in Ólafsfjörður..........26–30. JuneFolk Music Festival in Siglufjörður............................4–8. JulyHerring Adventure in Siglufjörður........................2–6. AugustBerry Picking Days in Ólafsfjörður .................. 17–19. AugustMusic Centre (with many activities for allages and tastes), the Poetry Museum (whereyou can buy poetry old and new), NaturalHistory Museum (specialising in the birdlifeof the area), Art Museum (with probablythe best private collection in the country)and festivals such as the Music festival inSiglufjörður in the first week of July.Fjallabyggð is a vibrantcommunity in which you willfind a warm welcome.Fjallabyggð–asfGránugata 24 • 580 Siglufjörður+354 464 9100nonewww.fjallabyggd.isAt the Top of the WorldExperience Siglufjörður’s beauty from Hvanneyri GuesthouseMany visitors looking for the realessence of Iceland find it whenvisiting the northerly town of Siglufjörður,the former herring capital of Iceland.The fishing boom eventually ended, butthe people stayed, including the family inHvanneyri Guesthouse. The family patriarchhad, in fact, worked in Siglufjörður’s fishingindustry since he was six years old until thelast fish processing plant closed this year.Hear the SingingThe Guesthouse is located on the mainstreet and is thus within arms’ reach ofthe town’s restaurants, shops and bakery,making it an ideal place to set up baseduring a stay in Tröllaskagi.Accommodation ranges from dorms tolavish suites, something of which Katrín andher family are especially proud–offering eachcustomer a room to fit their taste and budget.Returning FriendsA family-run business, GuesthouseHvanneyri puts special emphasis on friendlyservice. “We feel our customers appreciateAll that breaks the stillness is the song of the birdsIn the early Spring, birds arrive from allparts of the world. They are dressing inthe finery of their summer colours for themating season while the days are growinglonger as summer approaches. The lake is asclear as glass in the stillness of the eveningtwilight, broken only by the birdsong.We are high in the North, on theTröllaskagi Peninsula at the Brimnes Hoteland Bungalows, located on the banks ofthis and many of them keepreturning. In fact, I just received baby giftsfor my newborn from one of our customers.I guess it doesn’t get any more personal thanthat,” says Katrín.A Trip into Icelandic CultureThe town has a lot to offer in itself. The peopleof Siglufjörður are particularly proud of theirmuseums: The Herring Era Museum and theFolk Music Centre, where you can delve intoIceland’s folk music heritage, thanks to Rev.Bjarni Þorsteinsson,a former resident ofSiglufjörður, whodiligently collectedand documentedhundreds of folk songsfrom the year 1880onwards. That’s not tomention the beauty ofthe Tröllaskagi area.Hvanneyri Guesthouse–ASFSuðurgata Adalgata 10 86 • 580 Siglufirði+354 +354 467 1506 1506order@hvanneyri.comhvanneyri@simnet.iswww.hvanneyri.comÓlafsfjörður. It offers 11 double roomswith bath, and 8 Finnish-style log cabins,accommodating 5–6 people each. The selfcontainedholiday cottages are perfect forfamilies or groups and include a lounge,kitchenette, bath, ground-floor bedroom andsleeping loft for the kids, as well as a cosy,private hot-tub on each veranda, where youcan relax over a bottle of wine from the hotel’sextensive wine list. Whether you are relaxingor involved in the exertions of an active sport,the hotel’s restaurant offers everything fromquick snacks to full course meals.Hotel manager, Axel Pétur Ásgeirsson,is always on hand to advise and organisesightseeing and activities in the region:boat trips, trout fishing on the lake, whalewatching,mountain hiking, kayaking,diving, skiing, horse riding, golf, riverrafting, snowmobiling, art exhibitions,museums historical places of interest and,of course, bird watching and more.Brimnes hótel–asfBylgjubyggð 2 • 625 Ólafsfirði+354 466 240092 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 93hotel@brimnes.iswww.brimnes.is

Funky, freshand full of flavour!Riding the NorthPolar Hestar’s Summer Group ToursPolar Hestar Tours of North Iceland isone of Iceland’s top destinations foran Icelandic horse riding experience. Theserenity of countryside in the vicinityof Eyjafjörður fjord near Grenivik, isthe backdrop to an array of excitingexcursions for intermediate to advancedriders of all ages, taking place thissummer at Polar Hestar Tours.A little introduction to set the scene...After crossing the sea-level road fromAkureyri that bridges the east and westflanks of Eyafjörður fjord, the roadwinds its way to the mountaintop whereyou are met with an astonishing view ofsnow-capped peaks in the distance, thelittle picturesque town of Akureyri farbelow and the fjord itself, the longestin Iceland, silently stretching out to theArctic Sea. Tranquil farms with freshcoats of red paint and flocks of whitesheep dot the hillsides, the lush greensof the cultivated land are complimentedby the deep blues of sky and sea. Thisthen, is the road to Grýtubakki farm,home of Polar Hestar Tours.Gods and Sagas TourIceland comes alive on this 5-day, 4-nighttour that takes you on an unforgettablejourney. Your horse is your constantcompanion through the verdant valleysof the North, as you wind your way overancient sheep paths to visit the diverselandscape around the historic Goðafoss,Ullafoss and Barnafoss waterfalls and listento stories of Viking gods and warriors.♦This ♦ tour is for intermediate riders.Ride with the Elves TourRide to Grenivik, stopping at the LaufásTurf farm and museum. Beautiful viewsover the fjord and the island of Hrisey.Extinct volcanoes, silent glaciers andhidden waterfalls surround you and, atthe highest point, a tremendous view outto the Arctic Ocean awaits your gaze.♦An ♦ 8-day, 7-night tour for intermediate riders.Fascinating North IcelandYou will ride from Fremstafell farmhouseto the impressive Goðafoss waterfall,into the Bárðardalur valley and up to thefamous Aldeyrarfoss waterfall, known for itsintriguing basaltic columns and onwards toexplore the volcanic region of Lake Mývatn.♦This ♦ is a challenging tour of 8 days and 7 nights forvery experienced riders.Polar Hestar Tours which celebrates its 27 th anniversary in2012, is run by the husband and wife team of Stefán andJuliane and has been a firm favourite with horse lovers froma lot of countries, many of whom return year after year.Pólar Hestar–asfGrytubakki II • 601 Akureyri+354 463 3179polarhestar@polarhestar.iswww.polarhestar.isRub23 is mainly a seafood restaurant with variations of fish species and large variety of sushi and meat courses.What makes the restaurant unique both in Iceland and internationally is the varied way in which the menu is puttogether, including ready-made spice mixtures that customers can choose from, the so-called RUB. RUB hasbecome a well known term for spice mixtures that are either put onto or rubbed into food, as the name indicates.LUNCH OPEN FROM 11:30 - 14:00 Mon. - Fri. DINNER OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 17:30RUB23 | Aðalstræti 2 | 101 ReykjavíkPhone: +354 553 5323 | reykjavik@rub23.iswww.rub23.isRUB23 | Kaupvangsstræti 6 | 600 AkureyriPhone: +354 462 2223 | rub23@rub23.is94 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 95

Celebratingthe Heart of MývatnThe Centenary of Gamlibær and the 70th anniversary of Hótel ReynihlíðThere were no paved roads or cars inthe north 100 years ago. Usually, onefarm in the area would receive visitors, feedthem, provide a bed for the night and carefor their needs. It could be a burden on theirresources but it was considered a naturalservice by the farmers, whose family wouldusually give up their beds to the travellers.Reykjahlíð in the Mývatn area was thelast point before the arduous trek throughthe highlands for those heading east. It wasalso the first stop for weary travellers whohad struggled over the mountains on theirway to Akureyri. There was therefore alwaysa sigh of relief when the lights of Gamlibærin Reykjahlíð came into view from eitherdirection. This was a home where there wasgood food, warm hospitality and a comfortablebed. Built to replace the old farmhouse in1912, with extra room for guests, this ruggedstone building has welcomed thousands oftravellers in its hundred-year life.It is one of the oldest stone houses inNorth Iceland and is today, very popular asa country tavern. A café by day, it turns intorestaurant in the evening and a pub at night,with live music provided both by professionalentertainers and the guests themselves. It nowhas an international clientele, whose naturalsong and poetry talents are. On magicalsummer nights, they vie with the singing ofmultitudes of different birds.With the arrival of motorised traffic, morepeople than ever were looking for a place to stay.The family saw the need to expand and built ahome in 1942 with five bedrooms, followed in1949 with the first Hótel, Reynihlíð, with 19rooms and a restaurant seating 100 guests.The advent of tourism and the opening ofa diatomite factory led to further expansionuntil today, when it has 41 spacious rooms,all fully renovated. It is a 4-star Hótel witha high standard of customer service. Thewarm welcome each guest is met with isthe signature mark of Hótel Reynihlíð. Thefamily and staff do their best to make eachguest feel welcome. Now with conferencefacilities, the Myllan restaurant and theGamlibær Café-Bar, Hótel Reynihlíð is theheart of hospitality in Mývatn.The newest addition to the Hótel Reynihlíðfamily is the Hótel Reykjahlíð, across theroad. It is a small Hótel situated right on theedge of the lake, with 9 comfortable en-suiterooms and magnificient views over the lake.Birds from all over the worldIt‘s a dream for bird enthusiasts to be able towatch rare birds like Slavonian grebe, floatingon its nest, her chicks on her back, mere feetfrom their bedroom window! The birdsput weary travellers to sleep with soothinglullabies on bright summer nights, only toburst into joyful song as the sun rises higher.Every year around 30,000 migratory andthousands of non-migratory birds breed atLake Mývatn. Of a total of 84 species, 16 arevarious species of duck. The lake is Europe’sonly breeding place for harlequin ducks,Barrow’s goldeneyes and great northern divers.Geology in all shapes and coloursThe geology is also spectacular. For example,take the majestic mountains, gaping fissureswith pools of hot water, lava fields of unusualtextures, volcanic craters of all possible typesand some with sapphire blue lakes, colourfulsolfataras and bubbling pools of hot viscousmud of amazing patterns and colours, not tomention sites like Dimmuborgir.A Hundred Years of HospitalityThe ancestors of the founders of HótelReykjahlíð are from the same family as HótelReynihlíð, who originally built Gamlibær andthe old farm in Reykjahlíð. Thousands of visitorshave enjoyed the hospitality of the Reykjahlíðfamily for 100 years. With hospitality like this,they will doubtless continue to do so.–jbHótel ReynihlíðReynihlíð • 660 Mývatn+354 464 4170bookings@reynihlid.iswww.reynihlid.is96 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com97

Best inBirdwatchingTop sites: You don’t need to go far towatch birds in Iceland as there are goodbirdwatching sites almost anywhere, even incentral Reykjavík. Among the places mostregularly visited by overseas birdwatchersare the Snæfellsnes peninsula in westernIceland, the vast sea-cliffs at Látrabjarg inthe West Fjords, the Flói Nature Reserve insouthern Iceland and the Vestmannaeyjararchipelago off the south coast. Perhaps themost famous birdwatching site in Iceland,however, is the Mývatn-Laxá area in northeastIceland, where more species of duckbreed than anywhere else in Europe, 14species in total, in addition to numerousother species. However, birds can be foundthroughout the country and the best areasare often close to water. This is especiallytrue in winter, when birdwatching on thecoast is almost always more rewarding thaninland. Many European birdwatchers areparticular keen to see Iceland’s ‘Big Four’,i.e. Harlequin Duck, Barrow’s Goldeneye,Gyr Falcon and Brünnich’s Guillemot, all ofwhich are relatively easy to find at the righttime of year or in the right areas.98 www.icelandictimes.comWhere and when to watch birds in IcelandOther target speciesIceland represents the southernmost limit ofthe breeding range for several High Arcticbirds. Few places offer better opportunitiesthan Iceland to see Pink-footed Goose, LongtailedDuck, Ptarmigan, Gyr Falcon, RedPhalarope, Red-necked Phalarope, GlaucousGull, Brünnich’s Guillemot and Snow Bunting.Red Phalarope, Gyr Falcon and White-tailedEagle all enjoy special protection and visiting anesting site of these species is strictly prohibited.Another popular bird is the Atlantic Puffin,which is best seen in the Westman Islandsarchipelago, the islands of Breiðafjörður bay,the cliffs at Látrabjarg or in Borgarfjörður eystri.When they can be seenBirdwatching is an all-year activity inIceland. The best time of year, in the viewof the author, is from mid-April to the endof June. Spring migration is at its peak frommid-April to mid-May, when the nestingseason begins. This peaks in June, and petersout in July. Autumn migration lasts fromlate July until the end of October.Coastal seas, especially off the southwest,are relatively warm due to the influence of theGulf Stream, while inland, some bodies ofwater remain unfrozen throughout the winterdue to geothermal springs or spring-fed rivers,and so Iceland’s winter birdlife is quite varied.The origins of Iceland’s birdsIceland’s flora and fauna is largelyEuropean (Western Palearctic) in origin.Several species, however, have colonisedthe country from the west, and Icelandcan therefore said to be the meeting pointof east and west. Iceland furthermoremarks the southern breeding limit forseveral species and the northern limitfor several others and, as such, is also themeeting point of north and south. –JóhJóhann Óli is President of BirdLife Icelandand author of the Icelandic Bird Guide.Translation by Edward B. Ricksonwww.icelandictimes.com 99Images by © Jóhann Óli Hilmarsson

Árból Guest HouseA Home Away from HomeSigtún Guesthouse in HusavíkThe timelessness of a typical Icelandicfishing village is reflected in Husavíkwith its quiet streets and picturesque houses.Here, you can soak up the atmosphere of timespast while staying at Sigtún Guesthouse.Comfort without overcrowdingA renovated old family house, theguesthouse is situated just five minutesHeiðarbærHeidarbaer Country Guesthouse is convenientlylocated in Reykjahverfi between Húsavík and Mývatn(road 87). Shop, restaurant, swimming pool, campingplace and a sleeping-bag accommodation. Near mainattractions of north-east Iceland – Mývatn, Goðafoss,Asbyrgi, Jokulsargljufur and Laxa River in Aðaldalur.walk from the harbour, the constant sourceof life and profit for the community. Thisfriendly little house has eight rooms withmade-up beds, two single rooms, fourdouble or twin rooms with separate bedsand one family room with comfortable bedsfor six. In total, Sigtún has the capacity tohouse sixteeen guests, thus creating a nicecloseness without ever being overcrowded.Fish & ChipsThe guest have access to two bathroomswith showers and a bathtub and a kitchenwith a broiler. Wireless Internet access ispossible as well as the free use of the housecomputer. A washing machine and clothesline outside are available for use when needed.Your room in the NorthEvery effort has been made to create a homeaway from home and within your room atSigtún Guesthouse, the world can eitherbe shut out or welcomed with open arms.Clean, soft and inviting the pillows willcradle your secrets and your dreams.–ssHeimabakaríBakery and caféA beautiful bakery and café with thatseats 50 people. Breakfast is servedweekdays from 7:30 to 10.00 andSaturdays from 8.00 to 10.00. Breakfastis not available on Sundays. A widevariety of freshly baked healthy breads,buns, sandwiches, pastries and cakesare available. It‘s an ideal place to takea break and stock up for your onwardsjourney or just to relax and enjoy adelicious cake and real hot chocolate.TV Chef comes home to cookHúsavík’s Pallurinn restaurant features a giant gourmet barbequeVikings travel the world—but there’s noplace like home. Völundur lived in theCaribbean for 12 years, wrote a book that wonthe Gourmand World Cookbooks Awardand which has just been made into a BBCLiving TV series, which is being broadcastworldwide. He is now living his dream ofcooking in his home town of Húsavík inNorth Iceland in his newly-opened restaurantdown by the harbour, the Pallurinn.The Whale watchingCapital of IcelandThis beautiful old guesthouse, a former governor’s house,A small fast food kiosk and take away specializing in fishis located in the center of Húsavík. The rooms, with sharedand chips, using the freshest cod or bacalao available.Folk museum, maritime exhibition,bathrooms, overlook the stream in the town’s park,Situated by the marina in Húsavík, right below thethe bay and the harbor. A good breakfast and a friendlychurch. On sunny days guests can sit inside or out, with akids’ playroom, museum shop.atmosphere contribute to a relaxing stay in Húsavík.beautiful view over the colourful Húsavík harbour.Open daily 10-18Open every day all summer from 11:30 to 20:00Ásgarðsvegi 2 • 640 Húsavík +354 464 2220 Reykjahverfi • 640 Húsavík+354 464 3918Garðarsbraut 15 • 640 Húsavík +354 464 2900Stóragarði 17 • 640 Húsavík +354 464 1860guest.hus@simnet.iswww.arbol.isheidarbaer@simnet.iswww.heidarbaer.isHafnarstétt 21• 640 Húsavík +354 891 8460heimabakari@simnet.is www.heimabakari.issafnahus@husmus.iswww.husmus.isGuesthouse SigtunTúngötu 13 • 640 Húsavík+354 864 0250gsigtun@gsigtun.iswww.gsigtun.isHúsavíkDelicious Dining—Delightful View‘Pallurinn’ is Icelandic for ‘The Deck’ andyou couldn’t have a finer view of the harbourand the bay. It is located right behind theGentle Giants ticket office - with a giantheated tent and an equally giant barbeque,which is an engineering feat in itself.So now you can taste the reason for hispopularity yourself, whilst you spend theevening looking out over the spectacularHúsavík museumview of the bay as you dine on deliciousbarbequed lamb or fresh seafood, straightfrom the fishing boats in the harbour below.Barbequed with BirchIf you wonder where that special taste in themeat comes from, Völundur doesn’t cookwith charcoal, as you would find in mostbarbeques; he uses birch wood—and youcan really tell the difference!–asfPallurinn RestaurantHafnastétt 7 • 640 Húsavík+354 496 1440100 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 101info@pallurinn.iswww.pallurinn.is

HÚSAVÍK ORIGINALwhaleWatChIng- visitors' top pick since 1995The Biggest Bones You’ll Ever See!Whale bones hang from the Roof at Húsavík Whale MuseumIf you’d like to see whale bones and learnhow whales impacted Icelandic culturethroughout the ages, visit the popularHúsavík Whale Museum in the north ofIceland. “People visit the museum becauseit is the best way to learn about whales andtheir environment without actually divinginto the ocean,” says curator HermannBárðarson, a biologist with a keen interestin whales. “Last year, 21,000 people of allages visited the museum.”Whale SkeletonsThe crown jewel of the museum, so tospeak, is the 13 metre-long skeleton of asperm whale. There are 8 more skeletons ondisplay. “Only when one is close to one ofthese skeletons does one realise how largewhales actually are and how strikinglysimilar their anatomy is to humananatomy,” says Bárðarson. “Most peoplenever have the opportunity to come inclose contact with a whale—simply becausetheir ocean habitat is so different from ours.This is a real pity. It is our mission at themuseum to interpret everything aboutwhales to the general public. We are hereto spark curiosity, disseminate knowledgeand foster respect for these animals.”Museum for all Ages“Our museum is perhaps the most familyfriendlymuseum in the country,” saysBárðarson. “Its content comes from thedepths of the sea which is normally hiddenfrom humans. It comes from a place that isgenerally thought of as dangerous, lifeless,cold and dark—but nothing could befurther from the truth, of course. Childrenare especially receptive to the mysteriousnature of this hidden world. We like tobelieve that we’re successful in delivering apositive experience for children by bringingthis hidden world a little closer. Themuseum receives school groups from allparts of Iceland throughout the winter. Thevisits are an integral part of the children’seducation about the environment.”Fostering a Community SpiritThe Whale museum has become anintegral part of the local community. It isan attraction in its own right but it alsosupports the budding whale-watchingindustry in the Skjálfandaflói Bay. “Last year50,000 people visited Húsavík exclusivelyto go whale watching and visit the WhaleMuseum. The Whale Museum supportsthe overall visitor experience and fosters thecommunity spirit—everyone in Húsavík isproud of the museum. It also provides animportant employment opportunity forprofessionals, academics, unskilled peopleand volunteers in a disused slaughterhouse,”says Bárðarson. “Come and see the whaleskeletons and learn how whales haveimpacted Icelandic culture.”–shvHvalsafniðpicK Your tour...Spend 3 hours whale watchingon board a traditionalicelandic oak boatSpend 4 hours whale andpuffin watching on atraditional sailing boatOR CHooSE:whales, puffinsand sailson Iceland's only schoonersHafnarstétt 1 • 640 Húsavík+354 414 2800...with north Sailinginfo@whalemuseum.iswww.whalemuseum.is102 www.icelandictimes.comfor More info ViSit WWW.northsailing.is or call +354 464 7272

Memories of the OldPreserving the historical heritage in North East IcelandOnce, Iceland was home to people whoknew deprivation and hardship all toowell. The responsibility to preserve the ancestralheritage of Þingeyjarsýsla is in the hands of theHúsavík Museum in N.E. Iceland.Two permanent exhibitionsThe ‘Maritime Exhibition’ and ‘Daily Lifeand Nature–100 years in Þingeyjarsýsla’ areon display in the Húsavík Museum.Daily Life and Nature – 100 years inÞingeyjarsýsla opened two years ago on themain floor and is nominated for the IcelandicMuseum Award 2012. It gives an insightinto man’s relationship with nature andhow local homesteads were mostly selfsufficientfrom 1850 to 1950.The Maritime Exhibition includesartefacts such as boats and fishing gearexhibited both outside and inside.Also in the Museum, are an art gallery, theKids’ Playroom, the Museum café and Shop.Living HeritageFreestanding regional exhibitions give aninsight into the long history of settlementin the area. Grenjaðarstaðir is an old farmfrom the Settlement Era and has servedas a church, parsonage and a post office.Help yourself to coffee and tea, free ofcharge, and enjoy a light meal of yourown in an authentic Icelandic farm.Snartarstaðir is a museum and a giftshop 2 kilometres from Kópasker. Therich collection of local handicraft such asembroidery and knitted clothing portraydaily life in the 19 th and 20 th centuries.The museums are truly a livingmemory of the past.Húsavík Museum–jbWHALE WATCHINGBEST SELLERSGG1 WHALEWATCHINGGG6 PUFFINSEXCLUSIVEGG7 BIG WHALESAFARIGG2 SEA ANGLINGAction in HúsavíkStóragarði 17 • 640 Húsavík+354 464 1860safnahus@husmus.iswww.husmus.isÍSLANDBakkaflöt-Bátafjör150 YEARS OF FAMILY HISTORY IN THE BAY104 www.bakkaflot.com www.icelandictimes.com- Phone: 354 453 8245 / 354 453 8099

VATNAJÖKULSÞJÓÐGARÐURNATIONAL PARKWe are proud to welcome youto Vatnajökull National Park!Vatnajökull National Park is Iceland’s newest protected area, established in 2008.With a total area of roughly 13,200 km 2 it is by far the largest national parkin Iceland as well as in Western Europe.©Guðmundur ÖgmundssonSvartifossDettifoss©Guðmundur ÖgmundssonKey features of the park are the ice cap of the Vatnajökull Glacier(8,200 km 2 ) and several highly active volcanic systems withinand outside the ice cap. The interplay of ice and fire is the singlemost important force in shaping the nature of the park.As a result, one can find in one place an unparalleled rangeof volcanic-, geothermal- and other landscape features.We offer information at our three Visitor Centres, Gljúfrastofa,Snæfellsstofa and Skaftafellsstofa. Information Centres aresituated at Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn.More information at our website www.vjp.isÍsafjörðurSauðárkrókurAkureyriHúsavíkGLJÚFRASTOFAÁsbyrgiHljóðaklettarDettifossEgilsstaðirSNÆFELLSSTOFAGljúfrastofa©Regína Hreinsdóttir © Skarphéðinn G. ÞórissonHiking Geldingafell, Snæfell in the distanceLangisjórMorsárdalur©Guðmundur ÖgmundssonSnæfellsnesAskjaKverkfjöllSnæfellSnæfellsstofaHöfn©Ragnar Th. SigurðssonKeflavíkAirportReykjavíkSkaftafellEldgjá JökulsárlónLakiKirkjubæjar-SKAFTAFELLSSTOFAklausturVíkSkaftafellsstofaAskja and Lake Öskjuvatn©Einar Ragnar SigurðssonFor more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.isPORT hönnun

East Iceland– a hiking havenEast Iceland is a magnificent wonderlandwhere hikers, wanderers, birdwatchers,kayakers and nature lovers findeverything their heart desires; wilderness,solitude, challenge, new horizons–and forsome, even peace of mind. But more thananything, East Iceland is known for greatoutdoor activities, hiking, riding, fishing,exploring, and friendly fishing villages foraprès adventure.Hikes and treks for everyoneHiking is by far the East Iceland traveller’sbest way to enjoy the refreshing wilderness.The region is renowned for interesting anddiverse routes, ranging from day hikes toadventure-rich multi-day treks. Good hikingmaps of the whole region are available atTourist Information Centres and a numberof paths have been marked for safer hikingand optimum enjoyment.Mt. Snæfell—LónsöræfiMt. Snæfell, the 1833 extinct volcano andIceland’s highest mountain outside theglacier massif of Vatnajökull, presents amagnificent view from the top.There are guided tours up and around thisimpressive volcano and the surroundingsoffer some great sights, such as lush greenmoss and springs, sparkling in betweenblack sands. Herds of wild reindeer andpink-footed geese roam around. Nearby,Brúarjökull probably offers one of the easiestaccesses to explore a tremendous ice sheet.For the avid hiker, the Snæfell–Lónsöræfitrail, with stunning landscapes in theVatnajökull National Park, is a temptingand trying solitary route across theEyjabakkajökull glacier before droppingdown to the the stunning Lónsöræfihighlands, and the view of expansive greenvalleys with countless waterfalls, such asGeithellnadalur, Hofsdalur or Víðidalur.enable you to have views of beautifulcoastlines, mountain ridges, abandonedfarmhouses, birdlife, arctic fauna and, witha little luck, maybe even reindeer. The areais known for colourful mountains and semiprecious stones, as well as one of the bestplaces to watch puffins. Some of the best dayhikes are without a doubt to be found here,including one of Iceland’s best kept secrets—the monumental Stórurð, a labyrinth ofenormous rocks through which a little riverwinds its way and calm turquoise pondsof icy water lie hidden among the hugeboulders, lined by flat banks of short, greengrass. Just the perfect way to enjoy the bestunspoilt, breathtaking nature.variety in coasts is phenomenal. Brightlycoloured pebble beaches, black sandbeaches of Vöðlavík, awesome sheer cliffs,pristine fjords lined with eider ducks,old ruins of ancient farmsteads and theoccasional reindeer herd in deserted covesgive you an ‘out of this world’ feeling offreedom and eternity. Then, finish witha short hike to Helgustaðanáma, the oldIceland Spar mine in Eskifjörður.Around EgilsstaðirFor some shorter options, the HikingPearls of Fljótsdalshérað, the area aroundEgilsstaðir give you some great possibilities.Don’t miss the 40-minute climb to Iceland’s2nd highest waterfall, Hengifoss, thebeautiful basalt pillars of Litlanesfoss inFljótsdalur, or a stroll in the Hallormsstaðurarctic birch forest. They are all trulysomething to write home about, as areKverkfjöllA tour to Kverkfjöll, experiencing the uniqueinterplay of ice and fire in the imposingsurroundings, is an experience. Climb to thehot spring valley for a magnificent view ofboiling mud springs melting a labyrinth ofcaves through the great Vatnajökull glacier.Try soaking your sore feet in the warmvolcanic waters flowing from the mouth ofthe great Kverkfjöll ice cave. Although thewhite giant looks peaceful enough, neverforget that there are many dangers hiddenin the moving ice.VíknaslóðirThe 150 km marked paths of the Víknaslóðir(Desert Inlets) in Borgarfjörður eystri,SkálanesFor those preferring to enjoy a maritimeview, a unique opportunity to experiencethe beauty and calm of East Iceland are itsfjords. Visit the wonderful Nature heritagecentre at Skálanes at the furthest shoreof beautiful Seyðisfjörður or enjoy theride to Mjóifjörður, one of Iceland’s mostcelebrated fjords, with the breathtakingKlifurbrekkufossar waterfalls.Eskifjörður - NorðfjörðurDifferent, but no less attractive, is theeasternmost part, the Gerpissvæðibetween Eskifjörður and Norðfjörður,where skyscraping peaks join forces withthe heavy waves of the Atlantic. The greatthe solitude of Hjálpleysa, the ½ day hikeby Stóra-Sandfell, through mindblowingmonuments of the Ice Age. Enjoy a stroll atHúsey or spend a day at Iceland’s strangestbeach, Þerribjörg, by the Hellisheiði pass toVopnafjörður. Visit the Elf-lady trail and theEarth history landbridge by the Bustarfellfolk museum in Vopnafjörður. This is toname just a few of the wonderful optionsopen to you in this hikers’ paradise.East Iceland Marketing Office–ÁÞMiðvangi 1-3 • 700 Egilsstaðir+354 472 1750astathor@east.iswww.east.is108 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com109

Neat as a pinEgilsstaðir’s Lyngás Guesthouse is fresh and cleanOpened in 2010, Lyngás Guesthousegives guests in Egilsstaðir the optionof good quality accommodation at anaffordable price. Lyngás is located in thecentre of town and has six rooms suitedfor individuals, couples or groups of up toseven. White walls, accented with brightphotos of plant life emphasise clean cutminimalism. All rooms share bathrooms,kitchen, and the living room with freewireless access throughout the guesthouse.From the start of autumn, guests canget excellent bargains at this clean andmodern guesthouse just a few minuteswalk from Egilsstaðir’s pool and artmuseum. Guests on a tighter budgetcan bring their sleeping bag for areduced price or pay a small fee for theconvenience of a made up bed.–kbLyngás GistiheimiliLyngási 5-7 • 700 Egilsstöðum+354 471 1310lyngas@lyngas.iswww.lyngas.iswelcome to pop in for the reasonably-pricedlunch or dinner offerings of beef goulash,lasagna, meat sandwiches and a variety oftraditional skyr desserts, pancakes, wafflesand other sweet treats.Cowshed CornerStraight from the Farm in East Iceland’s Fjóshornið in EgilsstaðirPractically everyone has heard of the curdsand whey that Little Miss Muffet madefamous. But not many people know that theskyr that is so popular in Iceland is, in fact,a variation of those curds (minus the whey).Because of the growing demand for pureIcelandic dairy and beef products, EgilsstaðirFarm recently opened a farmer’s market onits premises, offering pure Icelandic dairyproducts, straight from their own milkproduction as well as a variety of cuts of beeffrom its own cattle herds. Open in summeronly, weekdays from 11.00 to 18.00 andweekends from 14.00 to 17.00, visitors areAll Egilsstaðir Farm products are soldretail to consumers. Mince, fillet, prime riband ribeye steaks can all be bought at theshop in pre-cut frozen form.Dairy products include plain andblueberry skyr, skyr desserts, feta cheese, andmilk—all packaged and labeled with theattractive Fjóshornið logo on the containers.Fjóshornið–emvEgilsstöðum I • 700 Egilsstöðum+354 471 1508nonenone110 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 111

At the Eastern CrossroadsEgilsstaðir Guest HouseEgilsstaðir Guest House, on the shoresof Lake Logurinn in the town ofEgilsstaðir, is a remarkable old world hotelthat has been accommodating guests since1884. Eighteen renovated double rooms, allwith en suite bathroom, plus a fine diningrestaurant, complete with white linentablecloths and views overlooking the gardenand lake, make this a cosy and romanticchoice for an overnight stay or longer.The French ConnectionAlive and well at Café Sumarlína in FáskruðsfjörðurIn operation since 2002, Café Sumarlina onthe Eastern Fjord of Fáskruðsfjörður is wellknown for their Belgian waffles with whippedcream and their sweet/savoury French crepes.Other specialities include creamed seafood ontoast, a variety of pizzas, lamb fillet and coddishes, to name a few. The café-restaurantsits just by the harbour on the fjord and oncalm, sunny days, the view of the mountainssurrounding the 15 km long fjord is spectacular.Fáskruðfjörður has a rich history andis twinned with the French town ofGravellines near the Pas de Calais. Between1800 and 1910, record numbers of Frenchand Belgian fishermen arrived here tounload their catches, with around 5,000men coming every year.The town has undertaken a project torebuild and restore a number of importanthistorical buildings that were used by theA bit of historyThe guest house shares sprawling estategrounds with Egilsstaðir Farm, which hasbeen operating continuously for centuries.The town of Egilstaðir grew up around thefarm and eventually became the site of themajor crossroads of East Iceland. Today,the farm continues its operations with 70cows that provide the hotel with all itsdairy products, such as milk, skyr, yogurtand cheese, as well as some of the highestquality beef products in Iceland.The kitchen is overseen by HuldaDanielsdóttir who is fast gaining a reputationfor her creative cooking skills and blending oftraditional and progressive cuisine, sourcingmost of the ingredients either locally or fromaround East Iceland. The restaurant pridesitself on its beef tenderloin from EgilsstaðirFarm as well as its delectable handmadeice cream and sorbets, both of which comehighly recommended.–emvGistihúsið Egilsstaðir700 Egilsstöðum+354 471 1114egilsstadir@egilsstadir.iswww.egilsstadir.comFrench fishermen. A luxury 4-star hotel isplanned for the old hospital built in 1903,which includes the French consulate anddoctors’ offices and will be ready for visitorsin the spring of 2014.A popular stop for French tourists, theFrench Museum of Fáskruðsfjörður isdedicated to the memory of thousands ofFrench and Belgian sailors who played animportant role in the history of the area.Café Sumarlína–emvBúðavegi 59 • 750 Fáskrúðsfirði+354 475 1575sumarlina@simnet.iswww.sumarlina.123.isComfortable Hotel BláfellSmall town charm in an historical settingAt the harbour on one of East Iceland’snumerous winding fjords, lies thecountry Hotel Bláfell in the tiny fishingvillage of Breiðdalsvik, pop. 139. Thefamily run, log cabin style hotel is imbuedwith the scent of fresh pine that greets youas you enter. In the lounge, guests can relaxon lovely sprawling leather sofas with a nicecup of tea, or make use of the free wi-ficonnection. Each of the recently renovated30 standard, family or deluxe rooms, comeswith private bath, tv and telephone.Hotel Bláfell is known for its down-toearthhome-style cooking, offering its guestsa full menu of satisfying traditional Icelandicand international favourites. Owners FriðrikÁrnason and Hrafnhildur Hafsteinsdóttir andtheir staff are more than happy to help withsuggestions of what to see and do in the area.In the summer of 2011, Friðrik andHrafnhildur opened the Kaupfjelag Caféand Tourist Information Centre, just afew metres from the hotel, where guestscan browse the well-stocked gift shop,bursting with arts and crafts made by localtownspeople, including beautiful handknittedsweaters, paintings, decorative itemsand souvenirs. The café offers a selection oflight meals such as sandwiches, salads, soupswith fresh bread, as well as a variety of homebaked cakes and pastries. Decorated witha collection of vintage memorabilia fromthe town’s residents, Friðrik and Hildurpay tribute to the memory of this historicbuilding which has been a part of life inBreiðdalfjörður since 1956.The unspoilt beauties of BreiðdalurBreiðdalur Valley shares in the rich heritageof East Iceland often overlooked bymainstream tourists and, as one of Iceland’shidden treasures, the wide and verdant valleyis just begging to be explored. Uncountablewaterfalls descend from Breiðdalur’s manypeaks, and just about every farm in the valleyis backed by its very own ‘private’ waterfall.Picnic spots abound in the valley, aswell as opportunities for horse riding andsalmon fishing and you can camp just aboutanywhere that is not farm land.A most fascinating museumThe Gamla Kaupfélag is Breiðdalsvík’soldest building (1906), housing the district’sHeritage and Geology Museum, wherethe lives and works of two of Breiðdalur’smost famous scholars are showcased:Stefan Einarsson, prolific writer, linguistand grammarian and the world-renownedBritish volcanologist Dr. George P. Walkerwho spent many years doing research inand around Breiðdalur Valley. Both arerecipients of the distinguished Order of theFalcon, Iceland’s highest honour.–emvHótel BláfellSólvöllum 14 • 760 Breiðdalsvík+354 475 6770info@hotelblafell.iswww.hotelblafell.is112 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 113

What One Woman Can DoShe brought the beauty of her land to the worldA Tribute toLjósbjörg Petra Maria Sveinssdóttir24 December 1922 - 10 January, 2012The grand lady of Stöðvarfjörður passedaway on 10 January, 2012 at the age of89, having lived a life devoted to a passion forcollecting. Her remarkable stone collectionis a testament to the vastness of the geologyof East Iceland. Her remarkable life, filledwith the beauty of humility and simplicity.To describe Petra as an avid collectoris an understatement and, visiting herhome, you will see why. It is thought tobe the largest private stone collection inthe world. I asked her grandson, Ivar, ifit had ever been counted “No, he says,they are quite difficult to count. Some ofthose more delicate have crumbled overthe years, making the job of countingeach and every individual stone almostimpossible. We do, however, give all thestones a good clean each year in the springin preparation for the thousands of visitorswho come every summer. The garden iscleaned of leaves and debris that collectsover the winter and then each stone is putback in its rightful place - a major job thattakes weeks to accomplish.”Still, just looking around we can seerocks on practically every surface of Petra´srather small house, the entirety of whichis lined with shelves displaying this mostamazing collection - which overflows outinto her front and back gardens and aroundthe sides, going up behind the house forabout 100 metres. There could easily be100,000 stones here. At least!Living up to her nameThe name Petra is from the Greek wordpetros, meaning rock or stone. However,this name is rarely used in Iceland and so isquite remarkable that Petra’s parents chosethis name for her. Even as a small child,Petra had a tremendous drive, as well as anuncanny knack for finding beautiful stones,finding her first geode at the age of 7.For the first two decades of hercollecting work, Petra was restrictedto searching the north slopes of themountains in Stöðvarfjörðar. Prior to1962, travel in Iceland was very difficult;the roads were primitive and there wasno bridge over the Stöðvará River.Nevertheless, she simply walked out herImages by © Tim Vollmerfront door and up to the mountains aboveher home to conduct her searches, oftenwith several of her children in tow.In the past 30 years, hundreds ofthousands of visitors of all nationalitieshave visited Petra’s collection ondisplay in her home at Sunnuhlíð inStöðvarfjörður. Visitor numbers reacheda zenith in 2003 with 20,000 peoplepassing through the exhibition. DuringJuly and August, it is not uncommonfor 200 to 300 visitors to be viewing thecollection at the same time. It is the mostpopular tourist attraction of East Iceland.In spite of all the interest that Petra’scollections have garnered, she was notcompletely at ease with all the attentionher life’s work brought to her. In 1995,the then President of Iceland, VigdísFinnbogadóttir, invited Petra to a specialdinner at the presidential residence atBessastaðir, where Petra was to be awardedthe prestigious Order of the Falcon. Petrainitially declined the invitation saying,“This award is for the stones and not formyself and it is the stones that should begetting the award, not me!.” After somepersuasion from her family and friends, shefinally decided to go and had a lovely time.Petra once remarked, “I rememberfeeling so frustrated at not being ableto write a song or a poem about all thebeauty of God’s creation that I have beenblessed to see. There is just so, so muchvariety, it is truly astounding.”If the entries in the museum’s guestbook are anything to go by, then it isclear that Petra has indeed succeededin realising her dream of being ableto express her love of nature. We areindebted to Petra and now her childrenand grandchildren, who have opened theirhearts, their lives and their home, to shareone woman’s passion for the beauty to befound in the geology of East Iceland.–emvPetra’s Stone MuseumFjarðarbraut • 755 Stöðvarfjörður+354 475 8834petrasveins@simnet.iswww.steinapetra.is114 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 115

located at the mouth of theFjarðurá River with views across the fjord.Recreational highlights include midnightkayaking on the fjord (in summer only),attempting the challenging ‘Seven PeaksHike’, mountain biking, sea angling andbird watching at Skálanes.Trendy SeyðisfjörðurA Delightful mix of old and newIn recent years, the village of Seyðisfjörðurat the far reaches of East Iceland, hasbecome something of a trendy place formusicians and artists. In summer, thecolourful fishing village attracts visitorsfrom all over Iceland and abroad, who cometo partake of the popular Lunga Art Festivaland the flourishing cultural scene.While the 26 km paved road fromEgilsstaðir to Seyðisfjörður is steep with anumber of hairpin turns, the view to thefjord is absolutely magnificent and shouldnot be missed. Photo opportunities aboundand the immensity of the panoramicproportions will present a challenge for eventhe best professional photographers.Where to stayHotel Aldan is a small, upscale hotel locatedin what used to be the bank of Seyðisfjörðurfor almost a century. Elegantly furnished withantiques imported from Denmark and softfurnishings from India, the bedrooms are thepicture of gentle relaxation in an historicalsetting. Several of the rooms boast adjoiningsleeping quarters in a recessed alcove, whichare sure to be a popular cosy nook for children.Immaculately clean rooms with quality linensand down duvets add a touch of luxury.Hotel Snæfell offers an affordable hoteloption in town, with a total of 9 rooms ina charming timber house from 1908. It isSkaftfell Cultural Centre and BistroOverseen by the well known Indian chef,Jasmine Olsen, Skaftfell Bistro is aninformal artsy kind of place that servespossibly the best pizzas in Iceland. Enjoythe thin crust langoustine pizza with a glassof red wine, or the rich Thai vegetable soupwith coconut cream and a plate of freshtapas. The bistro’s interior design is inspiredby the late German artist Dieter Roth andtoday serves as an artists’ residency andcultural centre. The upstairs gallery offersexhibitions by local artists.Hotel Aldan’s reception centre at thetown’s entrance also houses the high classHotel Alden Restaurant, featuring traditionallamb and langoustine dishes as well as freshfish from the fjord. Many dishes are seasonedwith mountain herbs, hand picked from themountains above the fjord every summer.Collected specially for the restaurant,these fragrant flowers and herbs give HotelAldan’s signature dishes their distinctiveflair. This classy restaurant is perfect for aromantic summer evening dinner in elegantsurroundings on the edge of the fjord.–emvHótel AldanNorðurgötu 2 • 710 Seyðisfirði+354 472 1277hotelaldan@simnet.iswww.hotelaldan.comDip into the splendourMjóeyri Guest House & Travel ServiceMjóeyri Guest House & Travel Serviceis not hard to find. Just drive straightthrough the village of Eskifjörður and youwill see the striking summer houses on asmall peninsula, standing out against thejaw droppingly beautiful background of thepeaceful Eskifjörður fjord.Owners Berglind and her husband Sævaroffer a variety of facilities including a guesthouse with 5 comfortable rooms with sharedbath and sleeping bag accommodation withseparate kitchen and bath. Guests are welcometo enjoy the grill on the enclosed deck, as wellas the brand new hot tub and bath house. Inaddition, there are 5 beautiful self-containedsummer cottages, each sleeping 4 to 6, madeof Brazilian hardwood. Each one is two-storeyand has a cosy loft for sleeping.Imagine the view, imagine yourselfrelaxing in that hot tub…superb!Tailor-made ToursAs a travel service, Mjóeyri offers a widevariety of activities in the area, includingboat rental, reindeer watching and/orhunting, nature hikes, bird watchingtours—and skiing in winter. Tailor madetours according to your wishes can bearranged. Visits to Helgustaðir Cave,where Icelandic spar was mined from the17th–20th centuries are also possible.Guidance and equipment is included.Randulf ’s Sea HouseThe saga of Randulf’s Sea House is a mostunusual and remarkable story. Built byNorwegian fisherman Peter Randulf in1890, the building was used for landingand processing herring and providingfishermen’s lodging in the upstairs quarters.After the demise of the herring era in 1930,the sea-house sat unused and abandoned foralmost 80 years. When it was finally openedin 2008, the interior was found untouchedand perfectly preserved as if frozen in time.Upstairs, trousers were still hanging on hooks,several pairs of boots were left under the bunkbeds and a large collection of letters to lovedones on the continent were discovered.Mjóeyri Travel Service organises toursand events at Randulf’s Sea House, nowoperating as a restaurant within a museum.Visitors can tour this fascinating buildingand afterwards enjoy a traditional meal withstarters such as fermented shark, dried fishand herring on rye bread, chased by a shot ofbrennivín. The menu includes dishes madewith ingredients from around the fjord. Trythe reindeer meatballs with rice and chilisauce or the smoked and cured reindeerwith salad and blueberry sauce. Traditionalfish, meat soups, and roast East Iceland lambcan also be provided for group lunches ordinners with advanced booking.–emvMjóeyri GistiheimiliStrandgötu 120 • 735 Eskifirði+354 477 1247116 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 117mjoeyri@vortex.iswww.mjoeyri.is

In the Realm of VatnajökullThe last frontier, now within reachThe region directly beneath theVatnajökull glacier is a 260 km long,narrow stretch of land that spans from thewest of Skaftafell National Park to the townof Höfn on its eastern border. The lives ofthe people have been shaped and mouldedaccording to the dictates of nature, a regionwhich until as recently as the 1970’s, was oneof the most isolated in Iceland. The majorityof its roughly 2,100 inhabitants live andwork in Höfn, the area’s largest populationcentre; the rest are on farms scatteredthroughout the district.A photographer’s dreamDriving through this enchanted area,the vastness of the glacier with its variousoutlets, makes a compelling impressionon the mind. The expansive views acrossthe black sands of Skeiðarásandur towardsSkaftfelljökull glacier leaves one in awe ofthe glacier’s sheer magnitude, relentless inits crushing effect upon the land beneathit. The beautiful Svartifoss waterfall, one ofthe main attractions within the VatnajökullNational Park, is well known for itsunderlying black basalt hexagonal columns.Some impressive numbersVatnajökull is larger than all the glaciersin Europe combined, (there are smallerglaciers in Norway and Russia) and thelargest glacier in the world outside of thepolar icecaps. It boasts the highest elevationin Iceland, Hvannadalshnúkur at 2,115 m or6,870 feet, as well as the lowest point belowsea level at the famous Jökulsárlón glaciallagoon—260 m at its deepest. As a nationalpark, it’s the largest in Europe.Points of interestActivities in the area are numerous—take asnowmobile, jeep or hiking tour on the glacier,cruise gently around blue-tinged icebergs on aboat ride at Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, observepuffins at Ingólfshöfði, or get a bird’s eye viewover the glacier on a sightseeing flight. Whatcould be more magical than basking in themidnight sun, in the warm natural hot baths atHoffell? These are just a few of the possibilitiesin the Vatnajökull Region.Local FestivitiesTaste some of those lovely langoustine dishesduring the annual Lobster Festival in Höfn,22-24 June, and don’t forget the not-to-bemissedannual fireworks extravaganza atJökulsárlón on 25th August.For more in-depth information aboutVatnajökull National Park, check out thevisitor’s centre, a major hub for hikingand mountaineering expeditions in thearea, open year round.–emvRíki VatnajökulsEating well in HöfnKaffi Hornið Hits the SpotKaffi Hornið in Höfn í Hornafirði hasa friendly, laid back atmosphere thatputs you at ease the moment you walk inthe door. The Finnish wooden interiorand cosy tea lights flickering on each tablelend a feeling of warmth to this establishedrestaurant, which has been run by the samecouple, Ingólfur Einarsson and KristinÓladóttir since it opened 13 years ago.Making use of the celebrated ingredientsfrom the Vatnajökull region as much aspossible, Kaffi Hornið puts emphasis onthe prized langoustine for which Höfnis known. Not to be confused the NorthAmerican lobster, langoustine is also calledDublin Bay prawns, Norway lobster orscampi and imparts a more delicate flavourand texture than their larger cousins.Specialties of the HouseChef Ingólfur offers a variety of absolutelyfresh langoustine dishes including pastawith langoustine in a cognac-cream sauce,roasted langoustine with vegetables andgarlic sauce, grilled langoustine withsalad and even an intriguing langoustinepizza. Many of the seafood dishes comewith a fabulously crunchy Swiss röstiwhich attests to Ingólfur’s 2 years of cheftraining in Zermatt, Switzerland.A hamburger calling?In case you are homesick for a hamburger,Kaffi Hornið’s thick and juicy hamburgerswill fit the bill, easily putting others toshame. Made with 120g of pure Icelandicbeef from nearby farms, Kaffi Hornið’s everpopular signature hamburger is toppedwith mounds of melted cheese, bacon,onions and mushrooms, and comes with agenerous portion of french fries. Anotherfilling lunch option is the legendary clubsandwich, which is popular among locals.Craving vegetablesIf somewhere along your way you didn’tget your daily dose of fresh vegetables,Kaffi Hornið offers a lunchtime soup withhomemade bread and your choice of vegetablesfrom the salad bar, available daily until 4 pm.Last, but not least, there is a fine selectionof homemade cakes and desserts includingorganic ice cream from the nearby Árbærdairy farm. The addition of Icelandicliquorice to many of the more ordinaryflavours like chocolate and vanilla turns thisice cream into a uniquely Icelandic dairytreat that is hard to resist.Not to be missedLocated right on the main road that passesthrough the centre of Höfn, Ingólfur andKristín welcome you to pop in for a friendlymeal whenever you are in town.–emvKaffi HorniðLitlubrú 2 • 780 Hornafirði+354 470 8084info@visitvatnajokull.iswww.visitvatnajokull.isHafnarbraut 42 • 780 Höfn+354 478 2600geysir@geysircenter.ison facebook118 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 119

On Top ofthe WorldA timid soul’s approach to the mighty VatnajökullBed down for the night in theheart of the Vatnajökull districtat Vagnsstaðir Youth Hostel, just28 km east of the Jökulsárlónglacier lagoon. Sleeping bagaccommodation, linen rental,a well equipped kitchen, diningand lounge areas, as well as3 fully equipped cottages areoffered. There is a campgroundwith good sanitary facilities.The coast, just 1500 m fromVagnsstaðir provides numerouspossibilities for scenic walks andbird watching. Maps of the areaare available at the hostel.The weather report was looking good—afull day of sunshine ahead of me andtemperatures above 10°C. I was on my way toa face to face encounter with the world’s 3rdlargest glacier, the mighty Vatnajökull. Thistrip would mark a couple of firsts for me—myfirst time ever to set foot on a glacier, and myfirst time to travel by snowmobile. Needlessto say I was really excited!I first met Kristján and Bjarney, of GlacierJeeps, at our pre-arranged meeting place: thecrossroads of Route No.1 and F985. Thisis the official meeting place for all GlacierJeep summer tours. Glacier Jeeps has yearsof experience conducting jeep, snowmobileand hiking tours on the glacier since 1994.(Bjarney has been helping run the familybusiness since she was 14 years old.) I parkedmy car and joined them in their sturdy 4WDwhich wound its way slowly ever upwards,following the undulating gravel road, whichtwisted and turned around hairpin bends,past waterfalls and deep canyons. My guidesfill me in on the details of the landscape,pointing out how the glacier has crawledacross the terrain, devastating everything inits path along with other interesting facts.Thirty minutes and 830 metres above sealevel later, we arrive at Jöklasel, Iceland’shighest restaurant and owned by GlacierJeeps. Jöklasel will serve as our base campwhere we suit up with boots, warm overallsand helmets for the snowmobile excursion.Now it’s time to test drive the snowmobiles.I am a little hesitant at first and Kristján showsme the ropes. It looks easy enough but I decidethat I prefer to let him drive over the glacierwith me sitting safely behind him on this‘skidoo for two’, at least until I get a better feelfor it. ‘Off we go over the wild white yonder,climbing high into the sun’ to paraphrase anold song, with cloudless blue skies above usand the wind in our faces. Further along westop and dismount, to take in the magnificentpanoramic views over the glacier, the AtlanticOcean and the town of Höfn far below in thedistance. I felt like I was on top of the worldand it was truly a cause for celebration!Kristján jokes that we cannot go onwardsunless I drive. By now I am feeling a littlemore sure of myself and agree to give it atry. This time we are off to inspect a massivesheer rock face that rises straight up from theglacier at an elevation of 1200 metres. Finally,our one hour snowmobile adventure comes toan end and it is time to return to Jöklasel fora well deserved bite to eat and a hot drink.The view out the restaurant windows is as onewould expect: magnificent.Glacier Jeeps also offers a hiking tour of theglacier that comes with all the equipment suchas safety helmets, climbing irons and ice axe,instruction and a guide, included in the price.In case you just don’t think a strenuoushike or a thrilling snowmobile adventureis for you, then Glacier Jeeps offers analternative to see the glacier in a comfortable,specially equipped 4WD and is available yearround, weather permitting. Each tour is only3 to 4 hours in total, giving you plenty of timeto do other things with your day, even thoughonce you are up there you may not want tocome down. Although it’s best to book oneday in advance, you can also just show upat the crossroads (F985) at either 9.30 am or2.00 pm and join the tour from there.Vatnajökull Glacier Jeep tours: amust for your bucket list!Glacier Jeeps–emvSilfurbraut 15 • 780 Hornafjörður+354 478 1000glacierjeeps@simnet.iswww.glacierjeeps.is120 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com121

Discover an Ice-Blue Worldat Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon with Jökulsárlón Boat ToursThere are few glacial lagoons existingin the world today and certainly nonemore awe-inspiring and accessible than therenowned Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, situatedat the head of Breiðamerkulljökull outletglacier on the peerless Vatnajökull Glacier.Sail among the icebergsJökulsárlón ehf has been operating boattours on the east side of the lagoon for thelast 25 years. Sail among the icebergs in a40 minute amphibious boat tour, or take anexciting 1 hour Zodiac boat tour that goesfurther into the lagoon, getting you as closeas is safe to the icebergs and the glacier itself.A waffle with a viewEnjoy the spectacular view over the lagoonin the small café where traditional Icelandicwaffles with rhubarb jam and whippedcream are served throughout the day, as wellas homemade soup with bread, sandwiches,cakes with coffee or tea which can be eithertaken out on the terrace or consumed inside.The show of fire and iceThe magnificent annual fireworks displayover the lagoon can be described without adoubt as one of the most memorable fireworksshows on earth. The event, to be held this yearon 25th August, starts at 11.30 pm, withproceeds going to Iceland’s volunteer searchand rescue organization, ICESAR.Located within a few hundred metres ofRoute No. 1, the lagoon is actually muchbigger and deeper than it appears. With anarea measuring approximately 24 square km(9.2 square miles), you could easily fit theisland of Heimaey (in the Westman Islands)into it with room to spare. At over 250 m(820 feet) deep, four Leaning Towers of Pisa,stacked one on top of the other, would fitinside the lagoon with room to spare.With the ebb and flow of the tides, seawater enters into the lagoon bringing with itkrill, capelin, herring and salmon. Curiousseals know where the food is plentiful andcan often be seen bobbing along with thecurrents, swimming in and out between theicebergs and appearing to enjoy the attentionfrom onlookers on the shore.Across the road, near the delta where freshand salt water converge, you can walk downto the water’s edge to witness the rather surrealsight of baby ‘bergs’ beached on the shoreline.Jökulsárlón–emvHammersminni 16 • 765 Djúpavogi+354 863 1475agusta@arfleifd.iswww.arfleifd.isIcewear takes on VíkurprjónTaking the knitwear industry to new levelsEasily among the most picturesquevillages in Iceland, Vík-í-Mýrdal isone of those must-see places for the tourist.With its black sand beaches, formidablelandscapes, sheer-faced mountains and achurch perched on a hill above the town,the postcard-like scenery is the pictureof perfection. The white expanse ofMýrdalsjökull Glacier looms high above thetiny village of 291 inhabitants, one of thesmallest population centres in the country.Vík is also home to the popular woollengoods and souvenir shop, Víkurprjón, afavourite stop of independent travellers,as well as tour buses bringing visitorsto the south coast. Inside you will findtreasures of all sorts: lovely hand knitteditems, machine-knit woollens, and awide variety of Icelandic souvenirs totake back home with you such as mugs,magnets and t-shirts to name a few.The Icelandic outdoor clothingcompany, Icewear, has recently taken overVíkurprjón, who has been a major employerin the village for many years. The movecoincides with Icewear’s 40 th birthday andcomes at a time when the company feltready for expansion into other markets.Icewear director, Ágúst Eiríksson saysthat the shop in Vík will continue sellingVíkurprjón products along with its ownNordic Design–Heritage Collection.Icewear carries an extensive collectionof outdoor clothing ranging from woollensweaters, mittens, gloves and hats, to downparkas, with an emphasis on new fabrics andtrends. The company prides itself on friendlycustomer care and competitive pricing. Soldin shops all over Iceland, Icewear clothing isalso available internationally.Víkurprjón–EMVAusturvegi 21 • 870 Vík+354 487 1250vikwool@vikwool.iswww.icewear.is122 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 123

True Comfort FoodOozing history and charm at Halldór’s Café and ResaturantAh Vik! That colourful little village knownfor its black sand beaches and offshorebasalt columns that jut straight up from thesea. A place where the dazzling combinationof pounding surf, majestic glaciers, and steepmountain pastures neatly come together, to formone of the most picturesque villages in Iceland.The 700 km 2 Mýrdalsjökull glacial icecap,which towers above the town, hides thenotorious Katla volcano, which last eruptedin 1918. You will be happy to note that allis quiet on that particular front these days.As if awakening from a long winter’s nap,the sleepy village, (pop. 290) comes to lifeevery spring in anticipation of the arrival ofthe many wide-eyed tourists who all fall inlove with it each summer.The approach to the town from the westis especially captivating; the deep blueshimmering sea comes into view as youwend your way between precipitous slopesthat usher you into the village below. Ona sunny summer’s day when the sea istranquil, the view is magical.In a quiet side street, off the main highway,stands a quaint little wooden house with a richhistory. Built in the Westman Islands in 1831,it was dismantled and then rebuilt in Vík in1895. The building was used continuously asVík’s main retail shop from 1926 to 1980.It is now the home of Halldórskaffi and theTourist Information Centre, which is open insummer from 8.00 am to 8.00 pmHalldórskaffi, open from 11.00 am to11.00 pm, serves simple, yet wholesomemeals throughout the day. I asked ownerKolbrún which are the most popular dishesand without any hesitation, she answers witha smile, ‘the arctic char and the hamburgers’.This is the kind of place that kids and teenswill enjoy as well; tasty, filling, hamburgers,lamb and fish dishes, homemade pizza, soupof the day with home baked bread, and aselection of cakes are all on offer for thehungry traveller. An Icelandic beer, a glass ofwine or other spirits are all options, and maybe just the thing after a long day of sightseeingon Iceland’s charismatic south coast.Halldórskaffi–emvVíkurbraut 28 • 870 Vík+354 847 8844halldorskaffi@gmail.comwww.halldorskaffi.isIdyllic Days at ÞakgilOne of Iceland’s best-kept secretsLet me take you on a journey. But first letme say that if you are on a mad-dash,whirlwind tour of Iceland via the ring road,then this is probably not going to be yourcup of tea. If however, you have the time andinclination to go on a journey of discovery toan off-the beaten-path gem of scenic beauty,then this may be just the place for you.Þakgil - a hiker’s paradise15 km off the ring road, just 5 km fromVík, lies a small enclosed canyon, shelteredon all sides by steep, moss-covered verticalmountains. The floor of the canyon is agrassy plain, about the size of an Americanfootball field, which serves as a camping site.For the less adventurous, nine recently built,snug pine huts are also available for rent. Agurgling brook passes merrily through thecampground and when birds are singingnearby, you can be sure you have justdiscovered a little piece of heaven.A short walk up into a nearby ravinereveals the secret of Þakgil´s source ofelectricity—the smallest hydro-electric plantyou have ever laid eyes on. The campgroundmanagers, Helga and Águst, will be happy togive you the lowdown on its history, as wellas information on several magnificent dayhikes to the nearby Mýrdalsjökull Glacier. Adining hall, set in a large natural cave, comesreplete with cooking grill and a fireplace forwarmth on those cooler summer nights.An alternative to LandmannalaugarGetting to Þakgil is also part of the adventureitself. You will see all manner of weird andwonderful rock formations, scenic panoramicviews that go on forever and even the remainsof no less than two movie sets, Beowulf and theAmerican TV show, ‘Game of Thrones’, parts ofwhich were filmed right here. The gravel road iswell maintained and your average passenger carcan make it all the way to the campsite in about30 minutes. Þakgil certainly has no troublecompeting with the famous Landmannalaugar,which can get quite busy with tourists at theheight of the season.One of the best things about Þakgil isthat it has only become a holiday destinationrather recently. Before 2000, the majority ofIcelanders had never been here, making thisone of Iceland’s best kept secrets.–emvTjaldstæðið ÞakgiliHöfðabrekkuafrétti • 870 Vík+354 893 4889124 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 125helga@thakgil.iswww.thakgil.is

Sitting PrettyThe Old Cowhouse Restaurant-Café-BarLocation wise, The Old CowhouseRestaurant couldn’t be in a more perfectposition for feasting your eyes upwards tothe misty, craggy, moss-covered peaks ofEyjafjallajökull. It’s a welcome addition toIceland’s ever-growing list of new amenitiesthat have been popping up all over thecountry. The remodelled former barn, sitsright beside Route No. 1 roughly 25km fromHvolsvöllur. Its unpretentious characterand sweet bovine simplicity makes this athoroughly enjoyable place to stop for lunchor dinner while travelling the south coast.Every weekend, The Old Cowhouseoffers a reasonably priced ‘tea-time’ buffet,half price for children 7–12 and free for kidsunder the age of 6. It features classic savouryand sweet dishes including the popular´brauðterta´, a staple found at virtually everyparty or special event in private homes aroundIceland. If you are looking for traditionaldishes, this one really does ‘take the cake’.Meals can be taken outside onto the patio,with its landscaped rock and flower garden—amust when the weather is sunny and glorious.The Old Cowhouse menu uses beef thatcomes straight from restaurant’s own cattleherds and offers a hearty and warmingmeat soup called Volcano Soup, served withhomebaked bread made with barley from thenearby Thorvaldseyri Farm. On the menu, youcan find two kinds of steak, 140g pure beefhamburgers served with the usual french fries,called the ‘Country Burger’ and the ‘Farmer’sBurger’ with fried mushrooms and onions.Getting your daily intake of fresh vegetablesis easily accomplished with salads preparedfrom The Old Cowhouse’ own gardens orfrom neighbouring farms. Other possibilitiesinclude fish of the day, langoustine and fordessert, handmade ice cream from Fossís inVík. A variety of wines and spirits are also onoffer—check out the new Katla Geo Park beer!Upcoming events include musical eveningsof Icelandic folk music at various timesthroughout the summer, an October evening oftraditional food, a November evening of game(reindeer and geese) and a December buffet oftraditional Icelandic Christmas dishes.For a nice change of pace, The OldCowhouse is open in summer from 11–11,Monday through Friday and from 11–1in the morning on weekends. Large andsmall groups are welcome.Gamla Fjósið–emvEmbraced by Summer’s LightÁsólfsskáli Farm HolidaysLet the magic of Iceland’s midsummernight envelope you here in the foothillsof the Eyjafjöll mountains on Iceland’ssouth coast. Just minutes away from SkógarFolk Museum and the famous waterfalls ofSkógarfoss to the east and Seljalandsfoss tothe west, a stay at Ásólfsskáli Farm will giveyou a chance to renew your batteries and takeadvantage of the therapeutic surroundings.Award-winning retreatÁsólfskáli Farm won the 2011 award forbeing the best kept farm in Rangárthingeystracounty and the honour is whollyfitting for this neat and tidy dairy farm thatopened its doors to travellers in 1991.The large property includes two selfcontainedcottages that can sleep 5-6 peopleeach and come complete with jacuzzi andgas barbecue on the deck, making it an idealretreat in a perfect picture postcard setting.Visitors are welcome to watch the milking ofÁsólfsskáli’s 50 cows and take short hikes intothe foothills along marked trails in the beautifulHoltsárgljúlfur Canyon, which is just a stone’sthrow from the cottages. Trout fishing, goosehunting in the autumn and horse riding in theneighbourhood are other possibilities.Swim on the hillsideSeljavallalaug geothermal swimming pool lies10km east of the farm, built into a hillsideand into which natural hot water flows.The 9 metre-long pool, built in 1923, was aresounding success and considered to be quitean achievement in its time. There is a short15 minute walk from the carpark to the pooland rustic changing rooms at the site. Don’tforget to bring a towel! The captivating scenerysurrounding the pool is serene and enchanting.Are you up for an adventure?From Ásólfsskáli Farm you can book jeeptours to the famous Eyjafjallajökull glacierwith South Coast Adventure as well as excitingATV (all terrrain vehicles) and snowmobiletours to the glacier with Arcanum.Open year round, Ásólfsskáli Farm islocated 2 kms from Route No. 1, via Road246, 35 km east of the nearest town ofHvolsvöllur and 45 km from Vík.–emvÁsólfsskáliHvassafell • 860 Hvolsvelli+354 487 8822oldcowhouse@gmail.comfacebook.com/oldcowhouseÁsólfsskála • 861 Hvolsvelli+354 487 8989asolfsskali@simnet.iswww.asolfsskali.is126 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 127

Skogar Folk and Transport MuseumA showcase of Icelandic ingenuity and resourcefulnessThe Skógar Folk Museum pays tributeto Iceland’s many fine craftsmen andwomen who each contributed in their ownway to Iceland’s rich cultural historyFor centuries Iceland was almostcompletely isolated from the rest ofEurope. The wild and harsh climate madeinternational trade, commerce and relationsdifficult and the heavy-handed laws imposedby the Danish and Norwegian monarchies,did not make life any easier.As a result of the isolation and scarcity ofgoods, craftsmanship of all kinds blossomedand many highly skilled artisans produceda variety of useful and decorative items.Icelanders had to rely heavily on their owningenuity and resourcefulness for obtainingmany items that were taken for granted inthe rest of the world.A Museum is BornThere are probably few natives of SouthIceland more worthy of the title ‘local expert’than the 90 year-old curator of SkógarMuseum, Þórður Tómasson. He knows justabout everything there is to know about‘the olden days’ of Iceland, and with hisvivid memory and keen mind, he is, for allpractical purposes, a walking encyclopedia.Þórður began his collection at theage of 14, at a time when the moderntechnology of the 20 th century was fastreplacing hundreds of years of culturaltradition. Wander around the Open AirMuseum with its historical buildings andturf houses, reconstructed piece by pieceby Þórður himself. The small chapel, whilenew on the outside, is filled with fine churchrelics gathered from churches around SouthIceland. There, you will often find Þórðurat the harmonium, playing hymns fromhis youth; the music transporting visitorsto another place in time.Þórður’s foresight and enthusiasm hasinspired many others around Iceland tofollow his example, thereby ensuring thatIceland’s beautiful and unique culturalheritage is not lost forever.–emvByggðasafnið SkógumSkógum • 861 Hvolsvelli+354 487 8845skogasafn@skogasafn.iswww.skogasafn.isÞjóðveldisbærinnThe Farm That Opens the Door to the PastBelow the mountain of Sámsstaðamúli inÞjórsárdalur (Thjórsárdalur) in SouthernIceland lies the medieval farm, Þjóðveldisbærinn(Thjóthveldisbaerinn). It is a reconstruction ofthe houses at the nearby 12 th century farm ofStöng. The farm was constructed as a replicaof Stöng farm as a part of the celebrations forthe 1100 th anniversary of the settlement ofIceland, celebrated in 1974. Þjóðveldisbærinnis a historical venue exhibiting examples ofmedieval Icelandic handicrafts and technology.It is open to visitors throughout the summerfrom June to September.Rising Out of Volcanic AshStöng farm was excavated in 1939 by a teamof Nordic archeologists. The farm revealedmuch about the construction of the structuresand buildings on medieval farms in Iceland.However, just when and why the farm becamedeserted is something of a mystery. The Heklavolcano violently erupted in the year 1104,spewing ash and lava and it is thought that,at this time, Þjórsárdalur, with its 20 farmswas evacuated. However, some doubt hasrecently been cast on this chronology, withnew evidence coming to light that seems topoint to the Stöng farm and others continuingto be in operation after this event. Therefore itcannot be excluded that Hekla’s next eruptionsin 1158 or even in 1300, may have led toÞjórsárdalur being abandoned.Celebrating the 1100 th Year Anniversaryof Icelandic SettlementDuring the preparations for the anniversaryof 1100 years since the settlement of Iceland,well-known architect Hördur Ágústsson, theforemost expert on pre-modern housing inIceland, was commissioned to reconstruct afull-scale replica of the Stöng farm. Ágústssonagreed and construction began during theyear of celebrations, 1974 and was completedin 1977. Þjóðveldisbærinn was built todemonstrate that the medieval settlers inIceland did not inhabit dirty hovels but livedin carefully built and stately buildings. Theproject was sponsored in part by the PrimeMinister’s office, the state power company andby the local municipality, Gnúpverjahreppur.Skeljastaðir - Another Medieval FarmÞjóðveldisbærinn is close to another longabandonedmedieval farm, Skeljastaðir(Skeljastathir). Skeljastaðir presents a classicexample of medieval Icelandic architecture.The main building has six rooms: theentrance; a sleeping and working room, calledthe skáli; the living room; the storage room,likely used as a pantry; a small chamber(probably sleeping room for the master andmistress of the farm) and a toilet room. Twoof these rooms form the hub of activity on thefarm, the skáli and the living room. Althoughit was also used as sleeping quarters, the skáliwas important, as all manner of tasks wereconducted there. The living room was also amulti-purpose space, where the women wove,cared for the children and served the meals.The Turf ChurchVisitors to Þjóðveldisbærinn can also visit the turfchurch, the most recently reconstructed buildingon the farm. It was erected to celebrate the 1,000-year anniversary of Christianity in Iceland. Thedesign of the church was based on a churchwhich was found during archeological researchin Stöng in 1986-1998. Remains of several othermedieval churches were also used to design thereplica. It was ordained in the year 2000.–aJSögualdarbærinnHáleitisbraut 68 • 103 Selfoss+354 488 7713einarmat@lv.iswww.thjodveldisbaer.is128 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 129

Viking Tours of the Westman IslandsExperience the Haunting Music of Bird, Man and WhaleMountainous, mysterious, and oneof those places on virtually everytourist’s wish list. Seen from the mainland,the jagged archipelago rises dramaticallyfrom the horizon, breaking the skyline fromIceland’s south coast with a sort of ‘comehither’ look that you cannot evade.The Herjólfur ferry, from its brandnew port just outside of the town ofHvolsvöllur, plies the waters that separatethe islands from the mainland, makingthe easy 25–30 minute crossing severaltimes a day. Now you have no excuse notto see the Westman Islands!The Circle TourA fun and refreshing way to sight-seein the Westman Islands, Viking Tours’specially designed tour boat takes youaround the main island of Heimaey, 2 or3 times a day in summer.The 90-minute tour gives you a chance topeek into caves, observe puffins and concludeswith the haunting saxophone music which fillsthe singing cave of Klettshellur, renowned forits superb acoustics and performed beautifullyby Sigurmundur Einarsson, director ofViking Tours.The Coach TourAnother delightful way to explore the islandis by Viking Tours’ coach which departs fromthe main harbour every day, year round. Theguided tour takes you to the still-warm Eldfellcrater which erupted over the whole island in1973, the effects of which are easily observablethroughout Heimaey. You will also get achance to observe puffins at Stórhöfði.10 million puffins can’t be wrongIn staggering numbers, these adorable birdsflock to the archipelago year after year,the first arriving on schedule around the12 th –14 th of April. “The best time of day tosee them is in the late afternoon and earlyevening when the puffin parents return totheir burrows after spending the day fishingon the sea”, says Sigurmundur.Westman Islands Whale watchingWith whole families of Killer Whales anddolphins arriving in July, the WestmanIslands are a great place for whalewatching, boasting the largest populationof these sea mammals in Iceland. VikingTours can organise a whale watching tourfor you on request.All Viking Tours’ trips begin and endat the cosy Café Kró down at the mainharbour, where you can take in the 55minute film about the 1973 eruption andlearn how this singular event changed theface of the Westman Islands forever.See you this summerin the Westman Islands!Viking Tours–emvTangagötu 7 • 900 Vestmannaeyjum+354 488 4884viking@vikingtours.iswww.vikingtours.isGetting there is part of the funA Week-end in the Westman IslandsIf the Westman Islands is not on youritinerary this summer, it really should be.The once difficult to reach archipelago is noweasily accessible via the Herjólfur ferry thatleaves from the port of Landeyjarhöf, nearHvolsvöllur, transporting you and your car tothe island in just about 30 minutes. (weatherpermitting, of course) There are also directflights from Reykjavik city airport, but takingthe double decker car and passenger ferry isdecidedly much more fun.Heimaey, literally ‘Home Island’, is thebiggest and only inhabited land in this chainof 14 volcanic islands. In spite of Heimaey’ssmall size, there is plenty to see and do, sostaying overnight in one of the island’s hotels,guest houses, self-contained cottages or campsites would be a good idea, to give you a realfeel for this very special corner of Iceland.The Birds’ High RiseThe sheer vertical walls that arecharacteristic of many of the islands withinthe archipelago are home to thousands ofkittiwakes, fulmars, gannets and puffins,although the puffin population has beenlower in numbers in recent years. VikingTours offers 90-minute boat trips aroundthe island, enabling you to sail right up closeto the cliffs. From that vantage point, theyresemble noisy high-rise apartment buildingswith the occupants out on their balconieshaving fun chatting, swooping fromperch to roost and taking turns with theirobligatory nest-sitting duties. The watersthat surround the island are outstandingshades of a deep turquoise colour that youwould never expect to find in an ocean atthis latitude, giving the impression of anisland dipped in crystal-turquoise ink andmaking for a truly memorable experience.A Dig with a DifferenceThe Pompeii of the North excavation site,is a fascinating, ongoing project to visit. Ithas been digging out several homes that wereburied during the volcanic eruption of 1973.The project, which began in 2005, aims touncover a total of 7–10 houses, one of whichshould be entirely dug out and ready for visitorsto walk through in the summer of 2013.Eat in a volcanic atmosphereTourists are encouraged to have their eyes openfor some of the new restaurants that will openthis summer. Hotel Vestmannaeyjar recentlyopened a first class restaurant specialising inlocal cuisine in a volcano-themed atmosphere,run by the ambitious local chef, Einar BjörnÁrnason. The menu will include specialityseafood dishes, as proximity to local fishinggrounds provides the opportunity to obtainfresh ingredients daily.–emvVestmannaeyjabærRáðhúsinu • 900 Vestmannaeyjum+354 488 2000postur@vestmannaeyjar.iswww.vestmannaeyjar.is130 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 131

Within The Golden CircleGallerí Guesthouse is surrounded by famous attractionsThe small but bustling town ofLaugarvatn lies in the Golden Circlecreated by Þingvellir, Geysir, and Gulfossand in the middle is the quaint and quietGallerí Bed and Breakfast.Started by owners Þuríður and Joel aftertheir kids had flown the nest, three extrabedrooms are now filled with touristswanting more than the normal day trip toIceland’s most famous attractions. Froman enclosed patio, two of Iceland’s activeDown Into the DepthsCaving with Laugarvatn AdventureThe mouth of Gjábakkahellir leadsdown to rocky paths hollowed outby lava flows that pushed through earth,forming the cave’s smooth and polishedwalls near Laugarvatn, the town withinthe Golden Circle.The experienced guides of LaugarvatnAdventure have had over a decade oftraining in caving and can navigate throughalmost any of these caves. Tours vary indifficulty from Gjábakkahellir’s relativelyvolcanoes: Eyafjallajökull and Hekla areclearly visible.Breakfast is included in the price of theroom. Gallerí’s knack for handicrafts showsin light fixtures made by Þuríður and smalldecorations found throughout the rooms.The Gallerí store is where Þuríður andJoel’s artistry shines, allowing travellers totake home a small piece of Icelandic design.Joel and Þuríður’s hospitality extendsan invitation to their guests to come alonggentle descent to Tintron’s vertical dropaccessible only by abseiling down a rope.Lauagarvatn Adventure’s three cavetours let visitors safely delve into the depthswith the help of guides who were educatedin caving and are active members of theIcelandic Search and Rescue Team. Childrenover five can even go on some of the easiertours, while adults tackle the challenge ofrock climbing on Þingvellir’s craggy cliffs orcrawling through a small hole at the openingand find out the café’s secret to tasty bread,baking it in a natural hotspring close toGeysir. This bread is served along with slicesof salmon each day at the Gallerí café.Gallerí Laugarvatn–KBof Litli Björn cave. Tours are offered everyday from May through August with a twoperson minimum necessary for departure.Laugarvatn AdventureHáholti 1 • 840 Laugarvatni+354 486 1016galleri@simnet.iswww.gallerilaugarvatn.is–KBHáholti 2c • 840 Laugarvatni+354 862 5614smari@caving.iswww.caving.isA Taste of Wild and SweetLaugarvatn’s Lindin Restaurant & Café BistroLindin Restaurant & Café Bistro, locatedon the banks of Lake Laugarvatn, standson a firm foundation of culinary excellencethat has attracted patrons from around theworld. Owner and head chef, Baldur ÖxdalHalldórsson trained at the Culinary Instituteof America in New York in 1986—1987,and received training as a pastry chef at theprestigious Richemont Professional Schoolin Lucerne from 1988—1989, where hedeveloped his interest in the art of chocolateand learnt the secrets behind a great dessert.After his training abroad was completed,Baldur began something of a culinaryrevolution in Reykjavik, working at manyof the top hotels and restaurants, creatingspectacular and sophisticated desserts thatwere hitherto unknown in the capital.Mecca of Icelandic wild gameBaldur took over Lindin Restaurant in 2002which is known as the ‘Mecca of Icelandic wildgame’, priding itself on its year round menufeaturing only wild caught fish and seafood,game and lamb. Exotic dishes like grilledreindeer and cormorant with wild mushroomsauce and arctic char tartare with coconutsauce are featured on the menu. Always aheadof his game, you can be sure of finding newand exciting additions to his dessert menussuch as his delectable chocolate mousse withraspberry sauce, with watermelon pieces andwhite chocolate foam and his bilberry skyrmousse with crowberries and rhubarb.Only the freshestPassionate about food, Baldur insists onthe absolute purity and freshness of all hisingredients—not too difficult a task whenyou are located in the heart of Iceland’s‘greenhouse belt’ where he can take hispick of the choicest fruits and vegetablesgrown in the area year round. Therestaurant even has its own small kitchengarden providing a fresh supply of rhubarb,chervil and red and blackcurrants.The VerdictTaking our coffee and dessert out on thespacious terrace overlooking a lush lakesidegarden, no less than 2 famous volcanoes,Hekla and Eyjafjallajökull were both visibleon the eastern horizon. The setting wasmagical, the coffee, among the best we’vetasted in Iceland and the chocolate mousse...was, well...simply divine.In the heart of the Golden CircleLindin is located in the village ofLaugarvatn, right beside the lovely naturalsteam baths and pool at Fontana Spa. The45 minute scenic drive from Reykjavik takesyou through enchanting landscapes betweenGeysir and Gullfoss and Þingvellir, makingthis an excellent choice for a day trip in oneof the most scenic areas of Iceland.–emvLindin RestaurantLindarbraut 2 • 840 Laugarvatni+354 486 1262lindin@laugarvatn.iswww.laugarvatn.is132 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 133

Kerlingarfjöllthe untouchedbeautyA Hiker’s paradise in the interiorOnly accesible three to four monthsper year on Road 35, this area ofthe Highlands is one of the best unspoiledgems on the list of Icelandic wonderlands.Unexplored up to the 19 th century, it wasbelieved to be the homeland of trolls and theonly people that would venture here werethieves and outlaws. Today, Kerlingarfjöll isstill an unbeaten track by most tourists and itshould be on the checklist of all nature lovers.The land of trollsKerlingarfjöll means ‘Old Woman’sMountain’, a name inspired by ancient folktales. It is said that an old troll lady wascaught out by the sunrise and thereforeturned to stone. You can still see hersilhouette carved in the 25 m high tuff stonepillar at Kerlingartindur peak.Raised from fire and iceIceland is often called the country of fireand ice. One can truly understand this atthe Kerlingarfjöll mountain range. Formedduring a volcanic eruption about 10,000years ago, this is one of the most activegeothermal areas in Iceland. In the naturereserve, you can see splashing mud puddles,vents through which the earth breathesangrily and the hot spring area between thetwo rivers of Ásgarðsá and Kisa.Kerlingarfjöll is situated between twoglaciers, Langjökull and Hofsjökull. Themicroglaciers and snowdrifts found onthe plateau offer unique experiences andphotographic opportunities. If you getlucky, you might see small caves carved inthe snow by warm streams of water.Rainbow mountainsWhen you drive the 80 km from Gullfossto Kerlingarfjöll, the landscape changesdramatically. As you approach Kerlingarfjöll,you enter a desolate, fantasy land scenery.The diverse geology of the mountains createsa spectacular flow of colours. The volcanicrhyolite stone taints the mountains red. Theminerals emerging from the hot springs alsocolour the ground yellow, red and green.Accommodation in the former skiing hutsOn the banks of Ásgarðsá river lie theformer skiing huts that now provideaccommodation for up to 28 people.Kerlingarfjöll used to be a popular skiresort in the summer. In the year 2000, allthe ski lifts were disassambled and the resortwas closed for this type of activity due to thechanges in the climate and the glaciers’ retreat.Add Kerlingarfjöll to your Golden CircleSterna, one of Iceland’s leading bus companiesis the only travel agency that offers day toursto Kerlingarfjöll, combined with an afternoonat the famous Golden Circle. Daily departuresbetween 20 th of June and 7 th of September. Thecompany’s motto is ‘Avoid the big crowds’,so Sterna promises to take you to Þingvellir,Geysir and Gullfoss at a time of day when othertourist traffic is low. You can book a day tripwith Sterna at any travel agency in Reykjavík.But remember: You get a 5% discount ifyou book online at www.sternatravel.com.Children under 6 years can join the tour forfree and they get 50% off if they are between7 and 15 years old. Plus, you are offered a freehotel pickup in Reykjavík.–abKrókhálsi 12 • 110 Reykjavík+354 551 1166sterna@sterna.iswww.sterna.is134 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com135Sterna

Take a Break at the WaterfallGullfoss Kaffi is the place to stop for refreshmentsSet in the midst of a farming community,the spectacular Gullfoss waterfallwas enjoyed by just a few. As Iceland wasdiscovered as a tourist location, so itswonders began to be recognised as treasuresto share with the world.Travelling to the waterfall was, nonetheless,still quite a long trip from Reykjavik andvisitors longed for some refreshments, soin 1994, one of the enterprising farmingfamilies set up a tent and offered delicious,traditional Icelandic food.Some three years later, that tent becamea large summerhouse, offering morecomfort and facilities until another threeyears later, the current centre was built,providing all the facilities travellers andsightseers alike could appreciate. In 2004,a large seating area was added.Gullfoss kaffi gained immediatepopularity and whole bus loads of visitorsdescended on it. With seating for 450 gueststo eat in comfort, looking out to a beautifulview of the nature and such friendly, fastservice, no-one was left dissatisfied.Feeding the hungryThere were more reasons for the kaffi’spopularity than just its proximity to thebest known waterfall in Iceland. They donot just serve delicious, high quality coffeein all its styles and many flavours. By thetime people reached Gullfoss, they werehungry and there can be little better than agenuine Icelandic lamb soup, with its freshingredients garnered from the surroundingarea, to satisfy the largest appetite. Whilstthe soup is probably what the kaffi is bestknown for, they also have a small á la cartemenu for diners offering options of lamb orfresh salmon. For those who want somethingwith their coffee, there is a range of pastriesand cakes, freshly baked on the spot that aremore than just tempting!Warm clothing and souvenirsGullfoss is on the main route throughthe highland interior that is becomingan increasingly popular way to reach thenorth, so it is a natural stopping point for abreak. The highlands, of course, can be a lotcooler and the kaffi has a range of clothing,including handmade Icelandic woolsweaters, hats, gloves and scarves, as well asother useful clothing. This is all part of thehandcrafts section of the shop where visitorscan browse a wide selection of souvenirs andlocally-made crafts where the skill of theVikings once again becomes apparent in thequality of the various products.–asfGullfoss kaffi801 Selfoss Bláskógabyggð+354 486 6500gullfoss@gullfoss.iswww.gullfoss.isSlakki Zoo & play centreWhere Children and Animals Get to Know One AnotherSummer is here. The newborn lambsare skipping and jumping in the fields.The flowers are blooming in all their gloryand Iceland has turned green once again.The volcanic eruptions have only servedto fertilise the grass and the blue skies areencouraging everyone to get out into thecountryside once again.Of course, the countryside is synonymouswith animals. In Laugarás, close to Skálholtcathedral is the Slakki Zoo and Play Centre,which is one of the country’s most popularanimal centres. It would be a mistake tothink this was just for children, however.It has activities for all the family, adultsincluded and it makes a great day out in aplace where the simple joys of life can beindulged in by everyone.For the children to be able to experienceanimals close up, to be able to touch andhold many of them, is such a treat nowadays.They love the opportunity to play withanimals of all kinds and to look at the birdsand fish in their own environments.A Safe and Fun Activity DayThere are animals of all sizes from horsesto mice, pigs to ponies and everything inbetween. Some are inside and others canbe enjoyed in the gardens. The kittens, forexample, are a favourite inside their ownlittle house, where children can hold andpet them for as long as they wish - and thatcan be a long time.This is a safe environment where parentscan relax, knowing their children will beenjoying themselves without harm. Familiesoften make a day of it, as there is plenty to do.Besides the animals, there is a large aquariumand many different species of birds to enjoy.Even farmers come with their families - oftenwondering why their children love it so muchwhen they have animals at home!It’s not just the animals, though.There are other games to playwhich unite the family in a funentertainment such as the puttinggreen and crazy golf.Relax in the RestaurantNaturally, when you’re stayingall day in a centre such as Slakki,refreshments are very important andhere you will find a restaurantand café filled with homemadesnacks, includingdelicious hamburgerswith salad and applecakes with cream.The café is in a smallturf house, with plenty ofseating outside where you can enjoy the sunand the yummy, locally-made Kjöris icecream.Stuffed animals may be fine at home,but nothing can replace the experience ofholding or playing with live animals. Nocomputer or TV can take their place, either,so it’s no surprise that many families returnagain and again.Slakki’s indoor zoo is open every daythroughout the summer months until theend of August. It is one of Iceland’ssecrets that is being revealedon the Internet, withpictures and videosbeing posted bysatisfied customersand their happychildren. If you’re drivingthe Golden Circle trip, seefor yourself. It’s only a fewminutes off the main roadto Geysir.Slakki–asfLaunrétt I • 801 Selfossi+354 486 8783136 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 137helgi@slakki.iswww.slakki.is

Eat At The SourceDine on Delicious Langoustines at Eyrarbakki’s Rauða húsiðvisit to Iceland is not complete withoutA a visit to the birthplace of the Icelandiclobster industry. Here, you can indulge ina feast of the finest Icelandic seafood atthe Rauða húsið (Red House) restaurant,found in the picturesque seaside village ofEyrarbakki. In this beautiful red house, ashort drive from Reykjavik, langoustines areserved in a charming atmosphere amidst arich and well-preserved history.Now a tranquil village, Eyrarbakki wasonce an important trading centre in Iceland.Many of its houses were built in the early1900’s and the village maintains that turnof-the-centurycharm and atmosphere.Iceland was late to discover this seafooddelicacy. Lobster fishing was born off theshores of Eyrarbakki in 1954. In fact, it was nottill then that the Langoustine was discoveredto be not only edible, but delicious, too!Care is taken to maintain the sense ofhistory within the restaurant. The red houseboasts beautiful original wooden floorboardsdating back to 1919. If you arrive by noon,a hearty bowl of langoustine soup or a lightseafood salad sets you up for the day. Choosean evening of indulgence and you can savourthe Catch of the Day, consisting of threedifferent seafood dishes. Pair a bottle of finewine with any of the menu’s offerings and capit off with one of the Rauða húsið’s signaturedesserts. Serving a variety of delicious fishand meat dishes, the restaurant’s cuisine is amix of international and Icelandic foods, allfeaturing local ingredients.Enjoy a walk around the village eitherbefore or after a meal at the Rauða húsið.The walk could continue along thebeautiful black beaches only few minutesaway from the village. A relaxing stroll bythe water makes the visit complete.Rauða Húsið–ASFPizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8Probably the best pizzain townDowntownBúðarstíg 4 • 820 Eyrarbakka+354 483 3333raudahusid@raudahusid.iswww.raudahusid.iswww.gamlasmidjan.isthe exhibition inside is educational. From therethe first Icelandic female cockswain sailed.Nearby, sits the Icelandic WondersMuseum with the ghosts, elves and trollsthat roamed the land in ancient times.After a ghostly encounter it’s time for a spotof bird watching. The country’s largest riverflows nearby The vast marshlands have shrunkbut are still home to thousands of birds eachyear. It is a very popular spot for birdwatcherswho flock here.A diverse communityÁrborg is a worth the visitÁrborg is a community of three towns:Selfoss, Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri onthe south coast of Iceland, where lush farmlandsand large lava fields intertwine to create one ofthe most interesting landscapes in Iceland. It isalso densely populated and with people comeculture, history and entertainment.Conquering the seaThe sea is a life giver as well as a life taker.Ever since the first settlers came ashore, boatshave launched from these shores and broughtback the catch of fish. With no harbour alongthe whole southern coastline, they went inopen boats, rowing for their lives.Þuríðarbúð in Stokkseyri is an interestingexample of an old Icelandic fishing station and138 www.icelandictimes.comCulture In EyrarbakkiEyrarbakki has a heritage museum called,‘Húsið’–‘the House’. This beautiful oldhouse, built as a home for a merchant in1765 was a great centre of culture in its time.There are many excellent restaurantsand hotels in Árborg and in Selfosstwo popular swimming pools. It’s anexcellent starting point to travel from tothe many beautiful spots nearby.–ssRáðhús ÁrborgarAusturvegi 2 • 800 Selfoss+354 480 1900radhus@arborg.iswww.arborg.islEss THANTwo HoURsDRIvE fRomREykjAvík(140 km).ReykjavíkEyjafjallajökullÞorvaldseyri• ExPERIENCE THE ERUPTIoN THRoUgH fIlm (20 mIN)• sTUNNINg PHoTogRAPHs• PRoDUCTs fRom ÞoRvAlDsEyRI fARm foR sAlE• soUvENIRsWelcome to the visitor centre at Þorvaldseyri861 HvolsvÖllUR • TEl. +354 487-5757 / 487-8815 • www.ICElANDERUPTs.Is • INfo@ ICElANDERUPTs.IsPORT hönnun

Image © Ólafur HaraldssonSouthern FantasiesReykjavik Excursions takes you to the Highlands and the CoastIceland is a small country but it has beenblessed with far more than its fair share ofsights and wonders. The variety of differentlandscapes keeps visitors returning. It’s notthat they are just different, rather each is sounusual that it leaves visitors awed.The tours themselves don’t just drive youthere and back, they make sure you get themost out of every mile, every sight along theway and hear about all the anecdotes, folk talesand history associated with them in a fun way.Take the tour to Jökulsárlón, for example.Whilst this spectacular lagoon is the end goal,there are waterfalls, glaciers, the country’shighest mountain and it’s most recent volcanoto see, not to mention the historical sites thatabound along the way and the small villagesthat contribute so much to the character ofthe South. There is an option with this tourto take a half-hour boat trip that wends itsway in a specially designed craft between themassive blocks of ice in the awesome stillnessof the lagoon in the afternoon sunlight. Thisis a film director’s dream: an actual site thatpossesses a fantasy-like appearance fromanother world. It has actually been featuredin at least a couple of major films already.This trip has two completely differentviews, depending on which side you sit. Onthe one side are mountains, volcanos, glaciersand waterfalls, whilst on the other side aresights like the Westman Islands, the blacksand beaches and the strange rock formationsstretching out into the sea at Dyrhólaey.Call of the MountainsIf you feel drawn to the mountains ratherthan the sea, there are several great tours thatwill take you to very different destinations.The Skaftafell tour takes you to a part ofEurope’s largest national park, VatnajökullNational Park, which is a very diverse parkencompassing raging rivers, glorious glaciers,massive mountains, lovely lakes and wildwilderness areas. Skaftafell is an unusuallywarm spot, with a higher-than-average numberof beautiful warm, sunny days. It is perhaps forthis reason that flora and fauna abound alongwith both animal and bird life. Toweringabove all is Iceland’s highest mountain on avast glacier. The tour provides an option for a2-hour walk on the glacier, where there arecauldrons and crevasses. While you shouldbring your own warm clothing, hikingboots and rain clothing, glacier gear andsafety equipment are supplied.Multi-coloured MountainsNot all the mountains are covered withsnow in summer or hidden under glaciers.The Landmannalaugar tour takes you highinto the interior to a valley between ryolitemountains, resplendent in their manycolours. You might expect it to be freezingbut there is lush vegetation and the sight ofpeople bathing in the warm springs. TheGateway to Hell, Mt. Hekla, is clearly visiblefrom this beautiful geothermal area, just oneof several volcanos in the region.Oasis under the VolcanoIt’s a few days hike from this mountain valleyto Þórsmörk, lying in a sheltered valley betweenglaciers and mountains. Regular cars cannotreach it. The trip there from the main roadis criss-crossed with unbridged glacial riversthat can turn into raging torrents. A regularReykjavik Excursions coach takes you toSeljalandsfoss where they have a special vehicleto safely traverse this tricky territory wherecars, jeeps and even buses have been sweptaway. This coach has panoramic windows allround and, with its massive wheels, you sithigh off the ground, so the views are superb!Most of this land is covered in volcanicash from a recent eruption. A formerlagoon has been reduced to a merepuddle. Where’s the beauty here?The coach rounds a rough, high cliff walland suddenly, the oasis that is Þórsmörkappears. It has its own mild micro-climate andhere bushes and birch trees grow in abundance,making it popular with bird and nature lovers.It’s a beautiful spot to enjoy all the differentaspects of the landscape and nature alike.Make sure to bring a good snack with you–or buy it at one of the stops. You’re really outin the wilderness of the interior in Þórsmörk.–asfReykjavik ExcursionsBSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík+354 580 5400140 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com141main@re.iswww.re.is

At your service- Anywhere- AnytimeForget the guide booksIceland Guided Tours is for serious IcelandophilesWhen I was young, I travelled the worldon a shoestring. Partly out of desireto just go where the wind took me, but mostlyout of financial necessity. I read everything Icould get my hands on about the country Iwas visiting and amassed volumes of travelbooks and guides. While this mode of travelis still valid, in looking back, I can’t help butwonder what I may have missed.I say this because suddenly all my cherishedbeliefs about independent travel came crashingdown when I was invited to go on a tour to thesouth coast with Iceland Guided Tours.This was my first proper tour in Iceland.I had read somewhere that seeing Icelandwithout a tour guide was like leavingyour glasses at home—and I would haveto say that I wholeheartedly agree. It waswonderful to be able to leave the drivingto someone else, so I could just relax andenjoy the constantly changing weather andlandscape as it unfolded before us. Ourdriver/guide was bursting with interestingknowledge about the area, not only aboutwhat we were seeing, but a whole wealthof insider information that the guidebookwriters know precious little about.Iceland Guided Tours is run by a husbandand wife team Óðinn and Addý, who are longtime tour guides themselves. All their guidesare handpicked for their thorough knowledgeof the country and ability to deliver with witand insight, in nearly flawless English.The little extras that make the differenceSmall groups and personal service are thehallmarks of IGTours, using comfortablemini-buses that take no more than 16passengers at a time, assuring you of arelaxing, flexible tour led by knowledgeableand friendly guides. With a passion forexcellence, IGTours provide airport transfers,142 www.icelandictimes.comcruise ship pick-ups and can organise privatetours for families and individuals by superjeep, private car, or even by helicopter to anydestination in Iceland of your choice.There is only one question that remains...now that I have been with IGTours, shall Itoss out the guide books?–emvIceland Guided ToursBorgarhraun 18 • 810 Hveragerði+354 556 5566info@igtours.iswww.igtours.isSpecial sightseeing taxi toursWe specialize in personalized sightseeingday trips to the natural wonders of Iceland– for small groups of 4-8 persons.We´ll make you a Comfortable Price offer!All major credit cards accepted by the driver.To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is

Laugavegur 1 • Reykjavík • 581 1250Hafnarstræti 3 • Reykjavík • 551 1250Hafnarstræti 104 • Akureyri • 461 5551Aðalstræti 27 • Ísafjörður • 456 5552email: theviking@simnet.iswww.theviking.com