Southwestern - The Vegetarian Resource Group

Vegan Cooking TipsSummer SquashBy Chef Nancy Berkoff, RD, EdD, CCEWARMER WEATHER MEANS LOTS OF THINGS—longer days, family vacations, more timeoutdoors, and of course the bounty of ripefruits and vegetables at local groceries and farmers’markets! Summer brings with it a colorful array ofproduce to sauté, bake, or grill, and one of the tastiestways to kick off this season is with summer squash.Summer squash is a term for thin-skinned, easyto-growgourds that were traditionally sold duringwarm-weather months. The term ‘summer’ squash isbased only on usage, not on growing season. ‘Summer’squashes, such as zucchini, crookneck, sapote, and pattypan,are in the markets in summer and fall. In contrast,‘winter’ squashes, such as pumpkin, acorn, andbutternut, remain on the market all winter. This terminologywas not meant to confuse; it just dates backto a time when food availability depended far moreon the growing season. ‘Good keepers’ became knownas winter vegetables because they would ‘keep’ theirshape and flavor until December or later.CHOOSING SUMMER SQUASHWhen shopping for summer squash, select the smallestand most fragrant specimens that you can find. Thesehave been harvested at an ideal time, ensuring theirmaximum flavor and tenderness. Larger squash tendto have coarse, stringy flesh and large seeds, so don’tpick those unless you are going to scoop out the fleshand stuff them.Fresh summer squash should have a bright, smoothskin; dull skin is a sign of old age. Varieties that aresupposed to have dark green skin shouldn’t show anysign of yellowing. Squash should be firm and plumpwithout any soft spots or pitting. The squash shouldalso feel heavier than they look for their size. If theyfeel fairly light, they have probably started to losemoisture and may be dry and cottony inside.Summer squash should be kept cool but not cold.Store them in the refrigerator, not the freezer.PREPARING SUMMER SQUASHSummer squash can be served raw with other vegetables,such as part of a vegetable platter with dips, andin salads. Try a salad of small-sliced zucchini or crookneckwith red bell pepper strips, olive oil, vinegar, andyour favorite herbs, such as cilantro, basil, parsley, ororegano. To shred summer squash or zucchini, usethe second-largest holes of a four-sided grater or theshredding attachment of a food processor.Many people enjoy some version of cooked squash.Whether green or yellow, summer squash is fast andeasy to prepare. Stir-frying or sautéing in a smallamount of vegetable oil or broth is the best methodfor cooking summer squash. Squash contains a largeamount of water, so steaming and microwaving couldresult in a lot of shrinkage; if you do choose to steamor microwave, do so for as little time as possible.For a firm cooked squash, cut into thin slices ordice your zucchini, crookneck, or pattypan, and sprinklethe cut surfaces with a very small amount of salt,approximately 1 /2 teaspoon per pound. Let stand ina colander for approximately half an hour, rinse, andpat dry with paper towels before cooking.You can grill, broil, bake, or stuff summer squash.Because of its mild flavor, it can be added to almostany entrée recipe or pasta sauce for texture and color.Use fresh or dried herbs and spices to enhance theflavor. Dill, pepper, basil, marjoram, chives, and mintgo very well with summer squash. Cook up a potof assorted summer squash with garlic, onions, andtomatoes. For a fast meal, quarter or slice fresh summersquash and sauté in a small amount of olive oil withsweet onions, black olives, and oregano.If you have the grill on, wash small summer squashand wrap in foil. Place in the hot coals, turning occasionally,and enjoy roasted squash with your entrée.You can purée leftover cooked squash, and then adda bit of silken soft tofu, cumin, and curry powder.This will create a curried dish, perfect served over rice.VEGETARIAN JOURNAL Issue Two 2009 11