Schriften zu Genetischen Ressourcen - Genres
Schriften zu Genetischen Ressourcen - Genres Schriften zu Genetischen Ressourcen - Genres
M. CHAUVET Anyway, as the traditional rural life is vanishing, the status of wild food is changing rapidly, and merits documenting. Wild vegetables were an important complement to rural diets. Now, they are coming back as a fashion for so-called ‘bobo’ (bourgeois bohême) urban people. Some three-star chefs offer them in their menus. As examples, the wild asparagus, Asparagus acutifolius, is still a traditional vegetable in southern France, and is commonly sold in markets. The vineyard leek Allium polyanthum is also available, although supplies are becoming rare because vineyards have no longer weeds due to the use of herbicides. Perhaps the most striking change is the fashion for wild salads. A local association in Montpellier every year organizes a field trip to help people identify wild salads in their rosette stage. Only by advertising in newspapers, they bring together about 300 people, which is becoming an important local event. In Paris, a new market has been created for aspergette, Ornithogalum pyrenaicum, which is collected in eastern France (Lorraine) and sold in specialty shops and street markets. In that case, I must confess that the texture of the flower stalks of this plant is mucilaginous, and not worth comparing with a good asparagus. Plants we eat without knowing Most books about food plants seem to ignore the changes brought by the industrialisation of food, although this process has begun in the 19th century. I often insist in the conferences I deliver on the fact that we eat many plant products unknowingly, and apparently with no harm. For example, most milk products include guar flour. Very few people know that it is obtained from the seeds of a pulse, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba, which is grown for this purpose in the United States, and the young pods of which can be found in Europe in Indian groceries. Other examples are annatto or rocou, Bixa orellana, which is a red colouring agent commonly used in European specialty products (cheeses, sausages, etc.). Fats such as shea butter or karité, Vitellaria paradoxa, and illipé (Shorea spp.), are now allowed as components of chocolate in the European Union. Plants generally misidentified During my research, I also found that some taxa are commonly misidentified. Raphanus sativus Daikon Group is now available in European markets. In France, where we have no tradition of eating white big radishes, it is not perceived as a radish. It regularly appears on markets under the name navet (turnip), and I had confirmation by a cook (my own son) that it is now currently used by cooks instead of petits navets. The reason for that is simple: daikon is always crisp and juicy, whereas turnips are too often fibrous and hollow. Daikon is also easier to peel and cut. 105
Inventorying food plants in France Other examples include Brassica rapa Cima di Rapa Group, which is commonly sold in France as a broccoli. I assume that it is a newcomer in France, imported from Italy. Only botanists will notice that true broccoli from Brassica oleracea commonly have bluish leaves, and not bright green. More important is the case of Cucumis melo Flexuosus Group, which has constantly been taken as a cucumber. I found it once in a supermarket as Armenian cucumber. But I discovered that the confusion has been constant in history, because this fruit has the shape of a cucumber, is collected immature as a cucumber, and processed and eaten as a cucumber. Only botanists are clever enough to identify it by its distinct ridges. The importance of this cultivar-group of melon is so great in the eastern part of the Mediterranean that I now think that historical data about ‘cucumbers’ have to be revisited. In the Bible, the ‘cucumbers’ that the Hebrews remembered having eaten in Egypt were probably this kind of melon. Lessons and recommendations The need for applied botany The examples given above illustrate the interest of mobilizing information in the field of applied botany as a tool of technical and market monitoring, and as a tool of identification for the enforcement of regulations, or their adaptation (e.g., Novel Food Directive). Applied botany is also a necessary basis to implement our commitments towards sustainable development and the rational use of biodiversity. At a time when biology is concentrating more and more on a couple of model species, we need to organize in order to maintain a good level of expertise about the diversity of plants. In particular, documenting and monitoring the use and market of minor, exotic and wild food plants could best be done through a European network. The interest of interdisciplinary approach Integrating information from many disciplines is a nightmare for the writer, but opens fascinating opportunities for research. Compiling information on many species allows a comparative approach of the history of agriculture and human peoples. Since the landmark publication of Alphonse DE CANDOLLE (Origine des plantes cultivées, 1883), no synthesis has been published with such a broad scope. There are of course many reasons for that, one being the trend towards specialization in science, and another the gap between biological and social sciences. However, the wealth of data accumulated by the different disciplines allows now to offer new syntheses. The new developments of molecular genetics, by allowing us to overpass the limits of morphological descriptions, open new questions that make necessary to revisit historical, linguistic and archaeological data. 106
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Inventorying food plants in France<br />
Other examples include Brassica rapa Cima di Rapa Group, which is commonly sold in<br />
France as a broccoli. I assume that it is a newcomer in France, imported from Italy. Only<br />
botanists will notice that true broccoli from Brassica oleracea commonly have bluish<br />
leaves, and not bright green.<br />
More important is the case of Cucumis melo Flexuosus Group, which has constantly<br />
been taken as a cucumber. I found it once in a supermarket as Armenian cucumber. But<br />
I discovered that the confusion has been constant in history, because this fruit has the<br />
shape of a cucumber, is collected immature as a cucumber, and processed and eaten<br />
as a cucumber. Only botanists are clever enough to identify it by its distinct ridges. The<br />
importance of this cultivar-group of melon is so great in the eastern part of the Mediterranean<br />
that I now think that historical data about ‘cucumbers’ have to be revisited. In the<br />
Bible, the ‘cucumbers’ that the Hebrews remembered having eaten in Egypt were<br />
probably this kind of melon.<br />
Lessons and recommendations<br />
The need for applied botany<br />
The examples given above illustrate the interest of mobilizing information in the field of<br />
applied botany as a tool of technical and market monitoring, and as a tool of identification<br />
for the enforcement of regulations, or their adaptation (e.g., Novel Food Directive).<br />
Applied botany is also a necessary basis to implement our commitments towards sustainable<br />
development and the rational use of biodiversity. At a time when biology is<br />
concentrating more and more on a couple of model species, we need to organize in<br />
order to maintain a good level of expertise about the diversity of plants.<br />
In particular, documenting and monitoring the use and market of minor, exotic and wild<br />
food plants could best be done through a European network.<br />
The interest of interdisciplinary approach<br />
Integrating information from many disciplines is a nightmare for the writer, but opens<br />
fascinating opportunities for research. Compiling information on many species allows a<br />
comparative approach of the history of agriculture and human peoples. Since the landmark<br />
publication of Alphonse DE CANDOLLE (Origine des plantes cultivées, 1883), no<br />
synthesis has been published with such a broad scope. There are of course many reasons<br />
for that, one being the trend towards specialization in science, and another the gap<br />
between biological and social sciences. However, the wealth of data accumulated by<br />
the different disciplines allows now to offer new syntheses. The new developments of<br />
molecular genetics, by allowing us to overpass the limits of morphological descriptions,<br />
open new questions that make necessary to revisit historical, linguistic and archaeological<br />
data.<br />
106