TimElESS TrADiTiOnS - Where Milan

MilanDECEMBER 2010the complete guide to go ® ®wheretraveler.comtimelESStrADitionsContainsa complETE mapof the cityEDITORS’ CHOICESOVER 700 addrESSESABOUT Shopping, Dining and EnTErTAinmentENDORSED BY

CONTAINSA COMPLETE MAPOF THE CITYABOUT SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENTENDORSED BYMilan December 2010the guide20 shoppingBoutiques & Passion Shops ListingsMajor shopping areas and our choice of thebest speciality stores46 diningDining ListingsListings by type of cuisine60 entertainmentEntertainment & Nightlife ListingsThe latest information about how to enjoyyour stay in Milan70 Museums & AttractionsMuseums & Attractions ListingsMajor sightseeing attractions plus museumsand events76 essentialsTransport and useful informationTips for getting around and about in the citywhere now6 Première CityEvery year the Opening Night of La Scala reawakens the city’s passionfor music and related events10 News of the CityA round-up of our favourite choices12 Tips from FriendsInsider news from Milanese in the know14 ArtsThe new Museo del Novecento and this month’s best exhibitions16 EntertainmentChristmas markets, music and sport for your holiday enjoyment18 DiningIn discovery of Panettone, a festive tradition dating back 500 years78 mapCentral Milan mapAlso Inside02 A Note from the Staff03 A Note from the Mayor04 Hot Dates80 10 Things We LoveMilanDECEMBER 2010THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ® ®TIMELESSTRADITIONSEDITORS’ CHOICESOVER 700 ADDRESSESwheretraveler.comon the coverThree of the pastry chefsfrom “Pasticceria Pinuccia”in Arluno, near MilanConnect with us onlinewheretraveler.com Get the city buzz online from our local editors.subscribe to wheremilan newsletter atwww.wheremilan.com: your free update on Milan!www.wheretraveler.com 1

Welcome A Note from the StaffFestive FolliesThis month’s cover is celebratory: the smiling faces of the three artisan pastrychefs epitomize one of the tastiest Milanese traditions, namely Panettone, Italy’straditional winter holiday dessert and a symbol of Milan, invented 500 yearsago (see p. 18). In addition to Panettone, this issue also celebrates the month ofDecember, a fabulous period to visit the city. This year, the city’s establishment willbe celebrating the beginning of the countdown to the Expo 2015.But, above all, those of you arriving at the beginning of the month will find thecity buzzing with excitement for the opening night of La Scala Opera House, on7 December, the day commemorating Sant’Ambrogio, the patron saint of thecity of Milan. In Milan, 7, 8 and 25 December are holidays. Before visiting shops,attractions or businesses on these days, be sure to check whether they are open.From 4 to 8 December, you can enjoy one of Milan’s most folkloristic traditions:the “Oh bej, oh bej” open Christmas market (see p. 16).However, throughout the whole month of December, Milan is pervaded by amagical atmosphere: traditional music, Christmas trees, decorations in the piazzasand, naturally, streets illuminated with a myriad of festive lights. Additionally,during the month of December, shops tend to stay open at lunch and onSundays. Don’t miss the Led Festival, a month-long festival using energy efficientLED lights to light up several of the city’s most notable venues (see p.10).Be sure to also keep an eye on the restaurant scene. In December, severalvenues offer special menus, particularly when itcomes to celebrating New Year’s Eve, known inItaly as “Veglione di Capodanno”.Last but not least, we wanted to celebratean editorial insider happening with our readers:Mr. William S. Morris III, President of MorrisCommunications and international Publisher ofWhere, together with Chris Manning, Publisherof Where London, helped Where Milan’s editorialstaff to pick the picture for the cover.The whole team is in the photo, to wish youHappy Holidays.On November 5, at the Town Hall,Letizia Moratti, Mayor of Milan,receives the first issue of Where Milanfrom William S. Morris III. With them:Manfredi Palmeri, President of theCity Council and Andrea Jarach.Your traveling companion since 1936®where®magazineWHERE MILANpublished by:Where Italia srlVia Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015info@wheremilan.comwww.wheremilan.compublisher and editor-in-chiefAndrea Jarachandrea.jarach@wheremilan.comeditorial (proedi COMUNICAZione srl)MANAGING DIRECTOR proedi comunicazioneDaniele MisrachiEDITORial coordinationAlessandra Finzimanaging EDITORElena Bindamagazine EDITORial staffCarey Bernitz, Patrizia Masnini, Roberta PatrunoWEB EDITorial staffElena Peverata (www.wheretraveler.com),Alessia Genovese (www.wheremilan.com)DESIGNERElisabetta GiudiciCONTRIBUTORS & consultantsValentina Bonelli, Sabrina Ciccolo, Maria GraziaGargioni, Francesca De Ponti, Marco Gatti (Dining),Andrea Host-Ivessich (Lifestyle), Joy Lacanlale, AndreaMilanesi (Entertainment), Carol Oberman, SusannaRicci, David Ross (Hotelerie)MARKETING, ADVERTISING & HOTEL pr SERVICESIsa Faleschini, Maria Granata, Stefania Guttuso,Marta Mailhac, Brian Norsa, Rachele RennaADMINISTRATIONKatia GretoPRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,SALES SUPPORT COORDINAtorPaola GrilliREG. trib. milano no. 453, 19 juLY 2010where italia srl, iscritto al roc no. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010DIRETTORE responsabile: Andrea JarachPrinted by Cromografica Europea, Rho (Milano)where milan è distribuito gratuitamente nei principali hotele in alcune località selezionateWhere® is also published in Rome by:Tourist Media srlMORRIS visitor publicationsMVP EXecutIVEChairman & CEOWilliam S. Morris IIIPresidentWilliam S. Morris IVMANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPEChris ManningWhere® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of theinformation it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for anyconsequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved.Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications,a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LLC, 725 Broad St.,Augusta, GA 30901.WHERE MILAN supportsPublished in association withMVPMorris Visitor PublicationsWhere® magazine and the where® logo are registeredtrademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.ENDORSED BY2 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Hot Dates December 2010THIS MONTH in MILANsaturDAy4Lighting ofthe giantsparkling,Christmas tree inpiazza Duomo.Beneath the tree,visitors will alsohave a chance toadmire the just assparkly pop-upShop opened byTiffany for thefestive season.ThurSDAy2SATurDAy4SuNDAy5MoNDAy6TueSDAy7WedneSDAy8james hansen At 6.30pm at the Rotonda dellaBesana (see listings), NASA’s astrophysicist and climatologistwill speak at a conference within the ambit ofthe exhibition, 2050. The planet needs you.CHRiSTMAS browsiNG Don’t miss the stalls ofthe traditional “Oh Bej Oh Bej” Christmas marketnear the Castello Sforzesco. Until Wednesday8 December (p. 16)quEEN of pop Last evening to see internationalpopstar Lady Gaga performing in her “Monster BallTour” at the Mediolanum Forum di Assago. Be sureto check out her Milanese outfit!muSEO del novecento The eagerly awaitedinauguration of a new exhibition centre designed tohost the best 20th century artists, Italian and notonly, at Palazzo dell’Arengario.PREMiERE Milan will be buzzing with holidayexcitement in anticipation of the opening night atLa Scala Opera House regularly attended by thecream of Milanese society and VIPs.FOOTBALL fervour A public holiday in Italy,Milan will come to a standstill to watch the eagerlyawaited football match of the month: Milan-Ajax,at the Meazza Stadium.MoNDAy13TueSDAy14ThurSDAy16SATurDAy18WedneSDAy22SATurDAy25thank you for the music Sing along withthe Soweto Gospel Choir at Teatro Manzoni orenjoy the sounds of the Voca People performingat Teatro Dal Verme.iTALian muSiCAL The show inspired by themost famous novel in Italian literature, “I promessisposi” by Alessandro Manzoni, will debut at theTeatro degli Arcimboldi.ruNNERS from mars The “Podisti da Marte”race will leave from Piazza Castello at 7 pm: the aimof this peaceful invasion is to raise funds for charity.The runners will be dressed as Father Christmas.MATiSSE Last weekend to admire the graphicworks by Matisse at the Scuderie del CastelloVisconteo in Pavia (40 km from Milan): 80 workson paper and a book, “Jazz”.auguSTE rodin An exhibition of 65 sculpturesand 19 “never-seen-before” paintings is scheduled tobe held in Legnano (30 km north of Milan) at PalazzoLeone da Perego. Until 20 March 2011.MERRy chriSTMAS Today is one of the mostjoyful religious holidays in Italy! Please note:almost everything will be closed, museumsincluded.18 624 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

where nowMilanThe month’s top entertainment, dining and arts»FOCUSPremière CityVisiting Milan in December meansencountering a city in top form:buzzing with anticipation for the openingof La Scala opera house the cultural andsocial heart of the city, but also blazingwith lights and awash with a myriadof fun things to see and doOn 7 December, a holiday dedicated to the city’spatron saint, Milan stages one of its most appealinginternational events: the opening of the ballet andopera season at the famed La Scala opera house.For months, this temple of music, which offers thebest of opera, chamber music and ballet, preparesfor the opening of the season with everything beingkept under wraps until the very last moment. Thenight is regularly attended by the cream of Milanesesociety, captains of Italian industry and heads ofgovernment, including the President of the Republic,to whom the orchestra renders homage by playingthe national anthem before the curtain goes up.Amidst art, glamour and history here’s everythingthat you need to enjoy the festivities.ARMANI BILL-BOARD, VIA CUSANI, BRERA DISTRICT - PHOTO © DE LUNAphoto © MARCO BRESCIA. TEATRO ALLA SCALA6 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

A Never-ending Love AffairThe original program of the concertconducted by Arturo Toscanini, markingthe reopening of La Scala after bombingduring the Second World WarOn 7 December the new season atthe opera house will open with DieWalküre by Richard Wagner (until2 January, www.teatroallascala.org). This year’s curtain raiser willbe conducted by Argentine-bornIsraeli, Daniel Barenboim. On16 December, Nureyev’s historicversion of Tchaikovsky’s best-lovedballet, Swan Lake, returns to LaScala after nearly ten years. Theopening night will feature guestappearances by Alina Somova andLeonid Sarafanov, direct from theMariinskij Theatre St. Petersburg.• December is the perfect monthto enjoy the festive spirit thatsurrounds Milan and La Scalawhose elegant neoclassical façade,lit up by Christmas lights, is theepitome of Italian-style theatresthroughout the world. Since theend of the 18th century, mostof Italy’s greatest operatic artists,and many of the finest singers,conductors and dancers fromother nations, too, have appearedat La Scala which boasts as many as280 performances a year. Theseinclude singers of the calibre ofBeniamino Gigli, Maria Callas andher great rival, Renata Tebaldi;famous conductors such as ArturoToscanini or Claudio Abbado; stageset designers such as LuchinoVisconti or Giorgio Strehler anddancers of world-class fame suchas Rudolf Nureyev and Carla Fracci.• La Scala has always beenextremely dear to the Milanese.In fact, following severe damageby bombing during the SecondWorld War, it was the citizenswho contributed to its timelyreconstruction. When it reopenedon 11 May 1946, with a memorableconcert conducted by ArturoToscanini, it became a symbolof Italy’s newly found freedom.The air of excitement thatsurrounds La Scala is apparentwith its comings and goingsof artists, fans, and tourists insearch of souvenir photos. Don’tbe surprised if you see peoplequeuing up early, these are theso-called “loggionisti”, hardenedmelomaniacs in search of a ticketin the “loggione”, the area in whichseats cost less.• But Milan’s love affair with musichas left various traces throughoutthe city, and not only in the mostobvious places. Did you knowwhat Giuseppe Verdi defined as“my best work”“? It was neitherNabucco nor Aida. The famouscomposer (1813-1901) believed thathis best work was the rest home hefounded for retired opera singersand musicians. Verdi is buried therein a crypt that can be visited from8.30am-6pm (www.casaverdi.org).Another famous musician andconductor, Arturo Toscanini (1867-1957), is buried with full honours atthe Cimitero Monumentale (seep. 70). Unfortunately, the housewhere he lived never became amuseum: it can only be admiredfrom the outside, in via Durini 20,not far from La Scala.www.wheretraveler.com 7

where now City NameFOR addictS ONLYLA SCALA MUSEUMArturo Toscanini’s baton, Mozart and Puccini’shair, Verdi’s death mask and other relics.Portraits of Enrico Caruso, Maria Callas,Renata Tebaldi, Leyla Gencer and RudolfNureyev. A real hall of fame reflecting allthe famous composers, singers, conductorsand dancers who, for two centuries,have graced the stage of the opera house.For 5 euros you can purchase a ticket thatwill allow you to go backstage or admire the theatre from the most exclusiveboxes. Museo Teatrale alla Scala, adjacent to the theatre, (www.teatroallascala.org,T: 02 88792473).LA SCALA SHOPLa Scala Shop (found inside the theatre andopen daily from 10.30 am-7.30 pm and in theevening for spectators only, www.lascalashop.it) offers a vast assortment of cds, dvds, bookson music and ballet and numerous collectors’items, such as the classical opera glasses(in the photo) which add an air of old-stylechic to your outfit. And since La Scala is aninternationally known brand, its line of merchandise ranges from T-shirts toumbrellas, from mugs to stationery.Highlights of the SeasonMust-see operas are: Cavalleria rusticana by Mascagniand Pagliacci by Leoncavallo, conducted by DanielHarding (January-February 2011); Die Zauberflöte byMozart staged by the South African artist WilliamKentridge (March-April 2011) and Robert Wilson’sproduction of Il ritorno di Ulisse in patria by Monteverdi(September 2011). Puccini’s Tosca will be conductedby the Russian, Valery Gergiev (February-March 2011)and star Jonas Kaufman. The superstar tenor, JuanDiego Florez, will perform in Rossini’s La donna del lago(October-November 2011) while Joyce Di Donatowill debut at La Scala in Der Rosenkavalier by Strauss(October 2011). The concert season will include anumber of famous conductors: the Bolivian, GustavoDudamel, the Russian, Yuri Temirkanov and theItalian, Daniele Gatti. “Popstar” of the piano Lang Langand the Vienna Philharmonic are also on this year’sprogram. An absolute rarity of European theatre, theballet Raymonda by Petipa is scheduled for October-November 2011. Also coming is Histoire de Manon(January-February 2011) featuring the stunning Italianstar Roberto Bolle, who will also dance in Jewels (May2011) by George Balanchine. Another “not-to-bemissed”performance is the Galà des Étoiles (April 2011).diningAT THE THEAtreThis is the trend of the moment:sipping a pre-theatre aperitivo atthe recently opened Il Marchesino(see p. 47), located just beneath LaScala and run by the award-winningchef, Gualtiero Marchesi. In additionto refined fingerfood, a “must-try”delicacy is the bowl of risotto allamilanese served in a steamingsilver cauldron. It also offers an“After-Scala” menu, adapted to thetimes of the performances. Pleasenote that the venue closes for theholidays from 1 to 6 January.theATRE WATCHINGThe two Michelin-starred Trussardialla Scala (see p.47) whose namedesignates its link with the temple ofopera is renowned for its high qualitycuisine. Its chef, Andrea Berton is oneof the key representatives of Italiancuisine and its design is in perfectkeeping with the understatedelegance of the Trussardi fashionbrand. The perfect place for VIPwatching on opening night.IN MEMORY OF VerdIDining at one of the tables whereGiuseppe Verdi composed Othelloand Falstaff is an emotion that canbe experienced at Don Carlos (seep. 46). The restaurant is located inthe hotel where Verdi spent the lastyears of his life. The Milanese will beable to tell you a lot of anecdotesabout Verdi: the time when theexultant crowd unbridled thehorses from Verdi’s carriage, whichthey then carried to the restaurantor when the Maestro accompaniedby the tenor, Tamagno, leanedover his balcony to greet theelated crowds below and gavean impromptu performance. Or,finally, the moving story regardingthe last agonizing days of Verdi’slife when the citizens of Milancovered the street with their capesso that the noise of the passingcarriages would not disturb thecomposer on his death bed.Just A SNACKDuring the Première, a newcatering service will be availablein the foyer: for information andreservations visit www.caffescala.it.8 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Shoppinga dance-fashion comboTechnical clothing for ballerinasor wannabes but also garments“borrowed” from the world of dancefor a metropolitan look with a touchof poetry: pumps, ultra-femininebody-suits and elegant georgettemini-skirts. It is not mere chance thatthe shops selling a combination ofdance and fashion apparel are alllocated just a short distance fromLa Scala. These include Porselli, anhistoric Italian brand, situated rightnext to the performers’ entrance;and Freddy (at JDC in Piazza delDuomo) and Dimensione Danza(corso Europa 2).FashionYou have just received a surprise invitation to the opening night at La Scalaand you don’t have anything to wear. No problem: remember you are in thefashion capital of the world! Finding a red carpet look by the evening is aseasy as pie. Just 600 metres from the entrance of the famed opera house, youwill find the “Quadrilatero della Moda” the largest luxury fashion district in theworld. A stroll along via Montenapoleone or via della Spiga will present youwith one famous designer label after another. If, on the contrary, you wouldprefer not to purchase but rather hire an outfit for an evening, your best bet isLa Nuova Sartoria (via A. Aleardi 14, www.lanuovasartoria.it), a historic venuefor everything related to the performing arts, founded for just this reason. Hereyou can find evening gowns and dinner jackets in all sizes. An oddity: the atelierwas owned by the family of Franca Rame, wife of Nobel Prize winner, Dario Fo.As for cosmetics, the city of runways offers a myriad of solutions one of the mostfamed being Diego Dalla Palma, a make-up artist of international repute whosestudio is located in via Madonnina 15 (T: 02 876818). Now for jewellery: Bijouxde Paris, in via Manzoni 12 (located, surprise, surprise just a short distance fromLa Scala) offers fabulous pieces of costume jewellery that look like the real thing.Established in1953, it has solved the problems of innumerable Milanese ladies. Toreach the theatre in a chauffeur-driven car, in addition to all the international carhire services with drivers, you can contact Davide Guerrera Autoservizi (www.davideguerrera), renowned for their courtesy and helpful last-minute solutions.His drivers speak English. Finally, if you intend to complete the whole with a regalgesture by throwing flowers at the feet of your favourite soprano, remember thatthe only florist that stays open 7 days a week is Monceau Fleur (see p. 77).stocking up on musicRicordi Media Store, in GalleriaVittorio Emanuele II, is the largestshop affiliated with the historicrecord label famous for its operaticrecordings. Bottega Discantica,in via Nirone 5, is a traditionalmeeting point for musicians andmusicologists, selling rare editions.Stradivarius, though situated onthe other side of the city from LaScala, in via Caretta 3, is definitelyworth a visit for those in search ofniche products. Finally for thosewho enjoy reading, the Libreriadello Spettacolo (via Terraggio 11,Cadorna area) offers a vast choice ofbooks dedicated to music and dance(for everyone: see listings).• TICKETSTickets for La Scala are highlysought after and hard to find.The good news is that mostof the best hotels have a setnumber for their customers.Should you wish to attend aperformance, your best moveis to speak to your concierge.Furthermore, bear in mindthat La Scala generally offersan open-air screening of thepremiere in the Galleria,next to the Duomo.www.wheretraveler.com 9

where now MilanFOCUSNewsof the CityMilan is a shopper’sparadise and whetheryou enjoy browsingcutting-edge shops ormajor department stores,you’re bound to find justwhat you’re looking for(plus a few extra bitsas well)TIME TECHIf, since you were a child, you have dreamtof owning a wristwatch that containseverything but the kitchen stove then yourdream has come true: this singular objectis on sale at Cielo, one of the oldestjewellery and watchmakers in Milan inpiazza Duomo 21 or in piazza Cadorna 11,right in front of the Malpensa Express exit.For just 300 euros, this object phones, takesphotographs, screens videos, records on amicro sd, reproduces mp3 music etc.An unforgettable gift but also a way ofindulging a whim that is sure to astoundboth friends and family.led festivalVia Montenapoleone will be lit up with a moving, nature-inspired rendering by Matteo Thun (see p. 22).The decorations and artistic luminous installations will not be reserved for commercial areas alone butwill also be used to adorn a number of other monuments in Milan, including the access roads to the cityand the skyscrapers that are currently sprouting up all over the city. In short, a feast for both the eyesand the soul. Last year Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II featured an amazing example (shown in the photoabove). www.comune.milano.it/ledMarathon CityIf you are an avid urban runner then don’t miss Milan’s two most importantMarathon dates – the Stramilano on 27 March (www.stramilano.it) and theCity Marathon on 10 April (www.milanocitymarathon.gazzetta.it/home.shtml).Registrations are now open. Thousands of running aficionados have comparedthe Milanese events with the legendary New York Marathon. To start preparingboth mentally and physically, one place to stay is Milan’s first Jogging Hotel,the Best Western Astoria, located near to several of Milan’s green areas (vialeMurillo, 9) and equipped to satisfy the every need of the urban runner. Some ofthe best places to train are: Montestella,Parco Sempione (Where Map D/E-3/4), the San Siro Hippodromeand the Parco di Trenno. Never forget to wear a reflective vest,unfortunately Milanese drivers sometimes miss to respectthe speed limits. Finally, for runners, Vibram proposes itsinternationally reputed FiveFingers that adapt to the shapeof any foot. Made from the softest kangaroo leather andavailable in a festive red colour, they also feature non-slipgrooves. Vibram’s FiveFingers retail at a price of 110 euros(see p. 45).10 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Concierge CornerStylish garden loungeA place to socialize and meet friends. Situated in the heart of Milan, the H-Club Diana enjoys a privilegedposition on the ground floor of the Sheraton Diana Majestic hotel, overlooking a private garden. Anultra-glam bar and “the” place to be after a long day at work. You can enjoy a typically Milanese aperitivoor an after dinner cocktail in a trendy atmosphere brimming with beautiful people. Open all year round.Aperitivo: every evening from 07.30pm to 10.30pm (Tues, Wed and Thurs live music). After Dinner: everyevening from 10.00pm to 00.30am (Thurs and Sat dj set). Brunch: Sat and Sun from 12.30pm to 2.30pm.www.sheratondianamajestic.com. Viale Piave 42. T: 02 20581Each month Milan’s top concierge sharetheir tips on making the most of yourstay in the city.This month: Andre VendrAmelof the Carlton Hotel Baglioni.traveling lightWe could use lots of technical jargon to describethis satchel computer trolley. In actual fact,you only need to see it and touch it at one ofPiquadro’s sales outlets in order to be totallysmitten – it’s absolutely stunning. The satchel(also available in mahogany, orange and black) ispriced at 606 euros (see p. 42).funky timepiecesMissoni’s trademark of using a variety of fabricsin various colours and patterns such as stripes,geometrics and abstract florals is combined withToyWatch’s chronographs to create some limitededition pieces. Six models are available, with threecolours each, paired with the funny foulard strapor with the more classic fabric strap with leatherbuckles. Only 250 pieces are produced per model.The Toywatch retails at 380 euros and the new linewill be sold at Missoni and Toywatch boutiquestores, starting from December 2010.chocolate blissDo you want to make a big time impression on your date? Compel your business partner toagree to all your proposals? Now there’s a new secret place in Milan that is guaranteed to makeyour guests salivate. It’s the Chocolate Room at the Four Seasons Hotel in Milan (via Gesù, 8).This room is the amazing creation of Pastry Chef, Graziano Bistoletti, under the directorship ofworld-renowned chef, Sergio Mei. The Chocolate Room is decorated with chocolate walls andpaintings and resembles an art gallery brimming with delicious treats: from bowls of meltedchocolate to chocolatesweets and desserts of allshapes and sizes. A perfectexample of multi-sensorialcommunication! Theeditors of Where, expertconnoisseurs, by profession,of every type of culinarydelicacy, could not hide theiramazement on 4 Novemberat the dinner organizedby Sergio Mei, directly inthe kitchen of the hotel, tocelebrate the launch of thefirst issue of Where Milan.Visitors will have the privilege of living a pureshopping experience in Via della Spiga, justaround the corner from Via Montenapoleone,Milan’s most fashionable street, featuringall of Italy’s most prestigious fashion brandsand exclusive designer boutiques. Famedas Italy’s fashion capital, Milan is also richin art & culture: the Duomo, the Church ofSanta Maria delle Grazie hosting Leonardo’sfamous Last Supper and the Sforzesco Castleare just a few of Milan’s jewels.For those who feel like taking a trip out oftown, the ideal place to spend a relaxingday is the City of Como, located just a shortdistance from Milan. A “not-to-be-missed”experience with its beautiful lake and artisticand architectural treasures.However, besides shopping Milan has amyriad of other attractions. I, personally,would suggest visiting the Museo BagattiValsecchi, one of the finest museum-homesin the whole of Europe, where visitors canadmire all the beauty of a private housefurnished with Renaissance masterpieces.Last but not least, La Scala opera houseis a “must” for opera buffs and, naturally,a visit to the Duomo, should also be topof your list.www.wheretraveler.com 11

FocusTips fromFriendsEach month Milanesefriends of Where sharetheir favourite hauntswith our readers.Be sure to check out thisinsider informationFrom Guglielmo Miani,fashion entrepreneurGuglielmo Miani, president of the Associazione di viaMontenapoleone, has given new impetus to Milan’s mostfashionable street. The first signs, from which we will allbenefit, are the events promoted by Miani which haveinvolved thousands of people and which will be repeatedon a yearly basis. One such initiative is “La Vendemmia diVia Montenapoleone” which transforms in October theboutiques on the street into wine cellars.For the citizens of Milan, Mianimeans luxury tailoring since 1922.The Larusmiani Concept Boutique,situated in the heart of Milan in ViaMontenapoleone 7, was conceivedas a space dedicated to the discoveryof the values of elegance, passion forquality and exclusivity. Visitors aretaken on an unforgettable shoppingtrip amidst noble fabrics, antiquetimepieces and even rare books.But it is the sartorial experiencethat will remain impressed on yourMen department unique fabric displayminds as you are taken into the worldof made-to-measure, where master tailors can personalize suits in a multitude of ways.Guglielmo will accompany you through spacious, comfortable fitting rooms the size ofhotel suites, some of which even have a private bathroom, in a contemporary settingthat expresses Larusmiani’s values to the full, with meticulous attention given to detailsthat are the Maison’s own. The three floors of the Boutique are connected by a majesticstaircase featuring a 12 metre high fountain that is a triumph of marble, or a lift linedentirely in velvet. What suggestions does Guglielmo have for the readers of Where? “Firstand foremost, a visit to one of my favourite places, namely Palazzo Morando, situated in viaSant Andrea, which often hosts temporary exhibitions and events. When it comes to food,I would suggest La Latteria San Marco (via San Marco, 24. T: 02 6597653). It reminds me ofa house and of the dishes that my mother and grandmother used to serve. Finally, I wouldstrongly advise a stroll down via Montenapoleone where, in addition to the shops, you canpeep into some of the most beautiful courtyards in the world. And, in December, a simply“not-to-be-missed” sight is the luminous installation designed by my friend Matteo Thun”.From Alessandra Montrucchio, art directorPortinari Chapel, Sant’Eustorgio, Piazza Sant’EustorgioMr. Pigello Portinari, a trustee of the Medici Bank in Milan during the second half of the 15thcentury, decided that he would like to bring a touch of Florentine style to his city of adoption.Hence the construction of the elegant chapel featuring some of the best frescoes ever paintedby Vincenzo Foppa. “The angels on the dome are as light and ethereal as those painted byMelozzo and, together with the architecture influenced by Alberti, contribute to giving a feelingof peace and harmony even in a chaotic city like Milan, thus giving myself and my friends theillusion of actually being in a Florentine Renaissance courtyard.”12 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

where now Milan»ARTSSeveral futuristicworks of arton display atthe Museo delNovecento inPiazza DuomoWELCOMING THETWENTIETH CENTURYA new Twentieth Century Museum in the heart ofMilan, in piazza Duomo: extending over 4,000 sqm.,the museum displays more than 400 masterpieces.From 6 December until February 2011, admissionwill be free. Picasso, Braque, Klee and Kandinsky but,above all, the Italians Modigliani, Boccioni, De Chirico,Morandi, Fontana and Burri and many others besides:an imposing catalogue which visitors can admire inthe recently renovated Palazzo dell’Arengario, atrue work of 1930s architectural genius. The museumalso has a bookshop, a restaurant and a screeningroom. Museo del Novecento, piazza Duomo. Mon2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm;Thurs-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm.www.museodelnovecento.orgISLAMIC ARTAn exhibition of Islamic artworks entitled “Al-Fann.The Art of Islamic Civilization”, has been mountedin the city of Milan. Set to run until 30 January2011, the event – the first of its kind in Europe – isheld at the city’s Palazzo Reale and features morethan 350 works from the private collection of theEmir of Kuwait. One thousand years of historyincludes ornamental friezes, samples of handwriting,arabesques, decorations, ceramics and sculptures,tapestries, carpets, jewellery and chiselled metals.Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri and Sun9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm.Tickets: €9. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 92800375.www.arteislamica.itBRASILIA, 50 YEARS LATERThe Triennale, Milan’stemple of architectureand design, celebratesthe capital of Brazil, asingular, urban experiment,designed in an arbitraryfashion and based on theidea of the “ideal city”with an exhibition entitled“Brasilia. Utopia Realized.1960-2010”. Unpublisheddrawings and documentsregarding the work of architect Oscar Niemeyer and his partners. Until 23 January2011. Open Tues, Wed, Sat, Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Thurs and Fri 10.30am-11pm.Tickets: €4. Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. www.triennale.orgEverything you (don’t) want to seeWar, disease, exploitation, pollution, nonconformistsexual practices and violence:“Disquieting Images” on display at theTriennale features the works of a numberof artists whose photos share a decidedlycritical outlook and have a visceralimpact. Minors under the age of 14 arenot admitted.Until 9 January 2011. Sat-Sun-Tues-Wed10.30am - 8.30pm; Thursday and Friday 10.30am-11pm. Viale Alemagna, 6.T: 02 724341. www.triennale.orgMUSEO DEL NOVECENTO: PHOTO BY GIANNI CONGIU. BRASILIA: PHOTO BY IVAN BAAN. TRIENNALE: PHOTO BY ELENA DORFMAN.14 WHERE milan I december 2010

INDESTRUCTIBLEICONSSPAZIO FORMA: PHOTO BY HERB RITTS 1987. VILLA PANZA: PHOTO BY EMIL FRAY. PALAZZO BAGATTI VALSECCHI: PHOTO BY YOICHI OHIRA, BELLINI-PEZZOLI COLLECTION. FEDERICO SOLMI, JEROME ZODO CONTEMPORARY.The icon of rock in 70 portraits taken byfamous photographers including PeterLindbergh, David Montgomery, RobertWhitaker and Bryan Adams. “Mick Jagger.The photobook” from 2 December to 20February 2011 at Spazio Forma, the Milanesesanctum of photographic art. Tues-Wed-Sat-Sun 10am-8pm; Thurs-Fri 10am-10pm.Tickets €7.50. Piazza Tito Lucrezio Caro, 1.www.formafoto.itRAUSCHENBERG’S “GLUTS”Villa Panza, a seventeenth centuryresidence located just half an hour fromMilan and converted into a museum ofcontemporary art by the philanthropistGiuseppe Panza, is hosting a fabulousexhibition dedicated to RobertRauschenberg, the explosive Americanartist of the ‘50s. “Gluts” is organizedby FAI (National Heritage Foundation) incollaboration with the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in New York, the PeggyGuggenheim Collection in Venice and the Robert Rauschenberg Estate of New York.Situated 40 km from the centre of Milan, the villa alone is worth a visit at any time ofyear: Varese, Piazza Litta 1. T: 0332 283960. www.fondoambiente.itA “CONFEDERACY OF VILLAINS”IN MILAN?Federico Solmi is a young (b.1973) Italian artist wholives and works in New York. His work is currently beingfeatured at the Santa Fe Biennal. His installations,composed of different media such as video, drawings,mechanical sculptures and paintings, are recognizedfor their bitingly ironic portrayal of present day society.Milan pays tribute to the artist with the exhibition “AConfederacy of Villains” inspired by the novel by JohnKennedy Tool, A Confederacy of Dunces. Until 11December. Open Tues-Sat, 10am-7pm. Via Lambro 7,Milano. T: 02 20241935. www.jerome-zodo.comArtisticEntertainmentTwo exhibitions, one idea:technology as an art form.On exhibition for the firsttime under one roof, Palazzodella Ragione will host all theworks painted by Caravaggioin digital form: “Caravaggio.An Impossible Exhibition”.Until 13 February 2011.Tickets: €8. Piazza dei Mercanti,1. T: 02 72003358. www.mostreimpossibili.rai.itAt Castello di Vigevano (40km from the centre of Milan),thanks to sophisticatedinteractive and digitaltools, you can become the“thirteenth apostle” atLeonardo’s Last Supper. Until 1May 2011. T: 02 43353522. www.leonardovigevano.itAND MORE …Codex Atlanticus The fifth part of anexhibition in 24 instalments: Leonardo’smachines at the Ambrosiana until 12 December.www.ambrosiana.eu. Piazza Pio XI, 2.T: 02 806921.Gabriele Basilico. Istanbul30 unpublished pictures at Palazzo delleStelline until 13 December. Closed on Mondays.Tickets € 4. www.stelline.it. Corso Magenta 61.T: 02 45462411.John Baldessarri. The GiacomettiVariations Installation featuring 9 sculpturesat Fondazione Prada until 26 December.Free admission. www.fondazioneprada.org.Via Fogazzaro, 36. T: 02 54670515.Sacred Lombard Art. From the time ofthe Borromeo Family to SymbolismThree centuries of sacred art at Palazzo Realeuntil 6 January 2011. Tickets: €9. www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale. Piazza Duomo, 12.T: 02 92800375.The Artist, The Poet Works from the historicResistance period at Palazzo della Permanenteuntil 9 January. Ticket €5. www.lapermanentemilano.it.Via Filippo Turati, 34. T: 02 6551445.Artists and Designers of Glass 1960-2010 At Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi until 1January. Closed 7-8 and 25-26 December. Tickets:€8. www.museobagattivalsecchi.org. Via Gesù, 5.T: 02 76006132 (see photo above).Salvador DalÍ. The ApproachingDream 50 works exploring the Master ofSurrealism’s relationship with landscape, dreamand desire at Palazzo Reale until 31 January2011. €9. www. comune.milano.it/palazzoreale.Piazza Duomo, 12 .T: 02 54913.Ciurlionis. An Esoteric JourneyRetrospective of works by the Lithuanian artistM.K. Ciurlionis at Palazzo Reale until 6 February2011. €8. www.mostraciurlionis.it. Piazza Duomo,12. T: 02 54918.Botticelli in the Lombard CollectionsSeveral important works by the Renaissancemaster at Museo Poldi Pezzoli until 28 February2011. Tickets: €8. www.museopoldipezzoli.it.Via Manzoni, 12. T:02 794889.Matisse. Graphic Masterpieces80 graphic works at the Scuderie del CastelloVisconteo in Pavia (40 km from Milan) until 19December. Tickets: €6. www.scuderiepavia.com.Viale XI Febbraio, 35. T: 0382 538932.www.wheretraveler.com 15

ITALIAN MUSICALFlashdanceFor the first time, the Italianproduction of Flashdance, themusical inspired by the famousfilm of the ‘80’s, will be stagedat Teatro della Luna in Milan.Accompanied by the soundtrackof famous songs such as Whata feeling, Maniac and Manhunt, the show is scheduled to run from 10December to 23 January. www.ticketweb.itFrom Soweto with EnergyJust back from its triumphant performance at theopening ceremony for the 2010 Fifa World Cup inSouth Africa, the Soweto Gospel Choir is backon tour and is set to arrive in Milan where it willperform just one concert on 13 December atTeatro Manzoni. The extraordinary ensemble willpresent a program combining the popular gospelmusic of the South African school with that oftraditional western gospel. www.teatromanzoni.itI Promessi Sposi“I promessi sposi” by Alessandro Manzoni, published in 1840, isthe most famous novel in Italian literature, studied as a set work bygenerations of school children. Following its triumphant debut, thissummer at Stadio Meazza, the musical, based on the book, will bestaged from 14 to 30 December at the Teatro degli Arcimboldi.www.promessisposimusical.itBollywood, ItalyMore than 350,000 spectators throughout the world, the Indianmusical is now in Italy: Bollywood. The Show will be staged atPalasharp from 28 December to 2 January. Dance, theatre andmusic with fifty performers including musicians, dancers andactors in a mix of images, choreographies and sound tracksboasting 80 years of Indian cinema. www.ticketone.itPhenomenon of the momentVoca People are the new international musicalphenomenon. Already acclaimed in every cornerof the planet, this group of eight performerswill debut, on 13 December at Teatro DalVerme’s Sala Grande, to bring us their originalperformance that combines amazing vocalsounds and “a cappella” singing with the art ofmodern beatbox which imitates the sounds ofdrums, trumpets, guitars and other instrumentsand musical effects. www.ticketone.itLady Gaga hits the city of fashionLady Gaga’s “Monster Ball Tour” will be staged in Milan on 4 and 5 December at theMediolanum Forum di Assago. Classified number one in Time Magazine special list of themost influential artists of 2010, the “Queen of Pop” is also a major name in Europe. Thewinner of two Grammy Awards and various prizes at the MTV Video Music Awards, onboth sides of the pond, the US artist is eagerly awaited for one of the most spectacularlive shows that you will see this year. Who knows what look she will flaunt in the capitalof fashion. T: 892101. www.ticketone.it

where now Milan» DiNINGSo this is PanettoneAn Italian holiday tradition and a symbol of Milan,this sweet festive bread dates back over 500 yearsPanettone is a type of large, sweet bread, leavenedvery slowly and enriched with raisins and candiedfruit. One of the most romantic legends about itsorigins links its invention to Ugo, a young falconeremployed by Prince Ludovico il Moro, yearning toconquer the heart of a poor girl. To win her over,the nobleman disguised himself as a baker andinvented a rich bread. From a gastronomic point ofview, the distinguishing feature of panettone is thatit is leavened two or three times. Its golden colourderives from the skilful combination of butter andegg yolks, while its overall beauty is completed bythe orange, green and brown notes resulting fromthe addition of candied fruit and raisins. The gourmettrick is to warm it for a few minutes in front of anopen oven or on top of a radiator before serving it.The puristsPanettone is a very popular dessert.For those who are determined tostick to tradition, several of the bestpastry chefs include: the “Boutiquedel dolce” owned by Achille Zoia ofConcorezzo (20 km north of Milan),the “Comi” pasticceria (T: 0399241274) of Missaglia (35 km NW ofMilan), the “Pasticceria Veneto”(T: 0303 92586) of Brescia (100 kmeast of Milan), where the panettonecarries the signature of the kingof Italian pastry chefs, IginioMassari and, finally, the “Pinuccia”pasticceria (T: 02 9017690) of Arluno(30 km NE of Milan) which possiblymakes the purest of the pure. Ourcover is dedicated to them.The famousAlthough it is true that many of thecrème de la crème of panettonechefs are hidden away in variousparts of the region, it is also truethat Milan is home to several ofthe most famous and prestigiouspastry chefs, whose name aloneis a guarantee of the utmost inquality. If you’re thinking of givingsomeone a special panettone giftthen Peck is the place to go. Afavourite Milanese haunt for morethan a century (see The Guide-Dining). Among the other historicnames, also worth particular noteare Cova, the pastry boutiquepar excellence located in viaMontenapoleone; Sant’Ambroeusin corso Matteotti, in the heart ofthe centre; Marchesi in via SantaMaria della Porta, Galli in viaVictor Hugo and Cucchi in corsoGenova. Each Milanese familyhas its own favourite version: askAnd as an accompaniementto panettone?The particular flavour of panettone requires awine that has the same characteristics, namelysweetness. The best accompaniment hasproven to be Moscato which, in the sparklingversion, has a golden yellow colour, a delicatefloral bouquet (in particular that of wisteria),a smooth taste and an appealing sweetness.around, it might serve as a sourceof inspiration.The divasTre Marie is another historicalbrand of traditional panettone. Thisyear, the designer name of pastrymaking has launched a partnershipwith two Milanese chefs ofInternational repute: Carlo Craccoand Davide Oldani. Invited toexperiment, these two celebritieshave worked on two versions ofpanettone, a sweet version and asavoury version. The first containsno raisins or candied fruit (700g)and is designed to act as theperfect base for pastry recipes.In other words, not a consumerdessert but a dessert for chefs tobe integrated and combined as aningredient in new and innovativerecipes. The second is a savouryversion of panettone (600 g), idealfor hors d’oeuvres and aperitiviserved at dinners or during theChristmas holidays. Furthermore,Davide Oldani and Carlo Craccohave created two gourmet recipeoptions that can be tasted at theirrespective restaurants (see listings).So, what are you waiting for?18 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

the guidewhereShoppingLuxury at Your FeetFor their 100th anniversary, Italian menswear label, ErmenegildoZegna, is releasing a special “Centennial” Collection of pieces thatpay homage to the brand’s heritage, combining artisan traditionwith technological innovation. A perfect example are these highperformance, lace-up Oxford-style shoes featuring a centenaryemblem in metal, inlaid in the sole of the shoe.www.zegna.it. Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comAccessoriesANDREW’S TIES – At Andrews Ties there issomething for everyone. Their selection covers avast range of models with over 6000 patternedties featuring ten different variations for eachstyle. You just can’t help treating yourself toone. The chain has other stores in Milan. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.andrewsties.com. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.T: 02 860935. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5ANGELA CAPUti GIUggiÙ – The brand isrenowned throughout the world. Sophisticated,original creations made from unusualmaterials such as plastic and resin, combinedto create unique objects both in terms ofcolour and shape. Her creations have beenused as accessories by famous televisionand film producers. The accessory as a focalpoint, capable of creating a look or dressingup any type of garment. A magical blend ofcontemporary and classical taste. A dreamwell worth the wearing. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm; 2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. T: 0286461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4Borbonese – A brand label that epitomizes theultimate in fashion accessories and clothing iscurrently celebrating its hundredth anniversarywith its special new Borbonese 1910 collection.Known for its creativity and innovation throughoutthe word, Borbonese is famous for its bird’seye pattern, the symbol of the maison. Usingprecious materials of the highest quality, and aprecise artisanal technique, Borbonese engendersproducts of superlative design and luxury. Itscollaboration with artists of the calibre of Balla andLichtenstein make for attention grabbing pieces.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.borbonese.com.Via N. Bixio, 7. T: 02 97379911. M1 Porta Venezia.Map H3Borsalino – Historic Italian companysynonymous with “hats” the world over. Eachpiece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, createdwith an artisan touch, the result of in-depthresearch that harmonizes fabrics, materials andcolours. Open Mon and Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it.Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89015436.M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Braccialini – Bags resembling works of art:embroidered, coloured, vibrant and carefree.Both inside and out, these totes are the epitomeof creativity, innovation and passion. For womenin search of distinctive, unique, personality-filledobjects. Also sells scarves, wallets, belts, sunglassesand other items. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.braccialini.it. Corso Venezia, 3. T: 02 76001786.M1 San Babila. Map G4coccinelle – Sophisticated, timeless high-fashionbags and accessories with an artisan edge. Forthose in search of accessories featuring minimalistlines and eye-catching details. A wide choice ofbags, footwear, wallets and other accessories. 3sales outlets. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.coccinelle.com.don’t miss visiting www.wheremilan.com before leaving: every week something new in the city!20 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

ShoppingGuidelinesThis directory, grouped by category, is a listof establishments recommended by theeditors of Where Magazine and includes regularadvertisers. Based on statistical evidence, themost popular luxury brands are grouped underthe separate lisiting Fashion Designer Stores,which can be found on pages 22-23.MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in bold at the end ofeach listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinateson the street maps on pages 78-79.INFormationVisitors should note that VAT is generally 20%and it is generally included in the price ofgoods. Before finalizing a purchase, overseasvisitors from outside the EU should ask theshop assistant whether they are eligible fora tax refund. Shopping hours are generallyfrom 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally locatedshops still take the traditional lunch break from12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or 4pm. Most shopsare closed on Sundays (except those located incentral Milan) and on Monday mornings. Makesure to always check ahead. Several unusualshops, stocking items and rarities for collectorsand aficionados in specific product categories,are listed under Passion Shopping rather thanin the standard Shopping sections.Via A. Manzoni corner of via Bigli. T: 02 76028161.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4cravatterie NAZionali – A welcomingestablishment not far from the Duomo, it stocksa wide assortment of logoed ties and an elegant,signature brand collection. Also on offer scarvesand stoles made from silk, linen, cashmere andpashmina. Open Mon 2pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17. T: 02 76004208.M1 San Babila. Map G5Donatella Pellini – Unique, design pieces.Sculpture-like, award-winning costume jewellery,exhibited in museums and at exhibitionsworldwide. With her creations, Donatella Pellinidemonstrates that precious jewels are not onlygold and diamonds, but those made from resin,glass paste and crystals, simple materials combinedwith surprising results. Sculptural pieces thatare never the same which can be admired andpurchased in the designer’s three shops in Milan(Via Morigi, the historic boutique; Via Manzoni;Corso Magenta). Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat9.30am-7.30pm. Via Manzoni, 20. T: 02 76008084. M3Montenapoleone. Map F4eve – Leather accessories: shoes, bags, wallets andluggage featuring a young, contemporary design,made from the finest, ultra-soft leathers. Availablein a wide range of colours that can be matchedwith the garments chosen by Eve for casual,elegant men and women’s wear. Open 10am-7.30pm. Viale Piave, 35. T: 02 29526986. Map H3.M1 Porta Venezia. • Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Via L. Mascheroni, 12.T: 02 468732. M1 Conciliazione. Map C4FranZI 1864 - Unique, contemporary, luxurioushandmade pieces. Women and men’s bags andluggage. Franzi’s wonderful vegetable tannedleather has made the brand famous since itsinception in 1864. Stocked at Banner Boutique.Open Mon 1pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.www.franzi1864.eu. Via Sant’Andrea, 8/A. T: 0276004609. M1 San Babila. Map G5FUrla – Contemporary luxury and a discreet,elegant style. A wide assortment of exclusively“Made-in-Italy” items: bags, footwear, belts,luggage, costume jewellery and jewellery. Aperfect example of time-honoured Italian artisantradition. The chain has other stores in Milan.Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. www.furla.it. CorsoBuenos Aires, 22 corner of via Omboni.T: 02 2043319. M1 Porta Venezia. Map G5I SANTI – This well-established historic Milanesebrand creates not only handbags and accessoriesfor women but also a travel&business and men’sline. A perfect blend of superior craftsmanship,supreme quality skins and Italian design, withpainstaking attention to details. Open Mon2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9am-7.30pm.www.isanti.it. Corso Lodi, 1. T: 02 55185925.M3 Porta Romana. Map H7miU MIU – A young, stylish, fresh, avant-garde brandcreated, in 1993, by Miuccia Prada (Miu Miu is hernickname) for young, upmarket women. Dresses,bags, footwear, gloves, scarves and fashionaccessories and items. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-8pm. www.miumiu.com. ViaSant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4orciani – Details that make the differenceand distinguish the unmistakable style of theOrciani brand: bags, accessories and leathergoods manufactured using only the finestquality materials such as leather and crocodile.Renowned for its “fly belt”, designed to speed upairport security checks thanks to a removablebuckle which can be extracted without havingto remove the belt from its loops and its “carbelts” featuring elasticized leather for the utmostcomfort in car travel. For those in search of thebest and latest in leather wear. www.orciani.it. Invendita presso Brian & Barry, Via Durini, 28 e LeMoustache. Via Amadeo, 24. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 9.30am-12.30am/3pm-7.30pm;Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. M2 Lambrate.Off Mapsharra PAGANO – Trendy costume jewellery:resin, crystals, coloured glass, rhinestone, semipreciousstones, brass and other metals, meldedin a variety of stunning combinations. Soldthroughout the world. The Sharra Pagano pearlcollections come very close to the real thing.Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sharrapagano.it.Corso Garibaldi, 35.T: 02 89013542. M2 Lanza. Map E3valeXtra – For those in search of luxury luggage,sophisticated bags and leather items for theoffice. Its range also includes wallets, smallleather goods (including exclusive keyrings) andelegant cases for laptops (PC and Mac). Valextrais a harmonization of artistic inventions andartisan experiences. The store has other salespoint in Milan. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.valextra.it. Via A. Manzoni, 3. T: 02 99786000. M3Montenapoleone. Map F4BeautyALDO COPPOLA – This celebrity hair salon hasno need for introduction and is a hot favouritewith the fashion crowd. Aldo Coppola boastsnumerous salons scattered around Milan but alsoin other fashion capitals worldwide. Minimalistdécor and design lighting make this a trulyunique venue in Milan, Rome, Florence, Como,Lecco, Monte Carlo and Porto Cervo. OpenTues-Sat 9am-6pm. www.aldocoppola.it. CorsoGaribaldi, 110. T: 02 6552144. M2 Moscova. Map F2alive – Discotheque, atelier and shop: Alive salonis not just a hairdresser’s and a beauty parlour.While waiting to get that stunning cut, you canbuy shoes, tops and trendy accessories and, if themood so moves you, you can also navigate inInternet or play playstation in the assigned areas.All this while a cool DJ spins the tables. No boringwaiting. Open Tues-Fri 9am-9pm; Sat 9am-8pm.www.alivemilano.com. Via F. Burlamacchi, 11.T: 02 54108529 M3 Porta Romana. Map H7Rolando – “Creativity, experience and sensitivityto ensure that every woman feels like a diva”, thisis the motto of Rolando Elisei, a beauty expertrather than just a coiffeur. During his 35 yearcareer, Rolando has styled the hair of numerousHollywood legends and created the look of along list of celebrities. If you feel that it’s time fora new look to enhance your personal style thenthis is the place to go. Two salons (Corso Vercelliand Via Stefini).Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.rolandoelisei.com. Corso Vercelli, 38. T: 02 4690114.M1 Pagano. Map B4rUBertelli – The latest treatments, innovationand ancient wisdom. These are the secrets ofthe Rubertelli Team beauty salon. Offering a vastselection of treatments for men and women, eachcustomer is given individual attention to find thesolution best suited to his/her needs. Everythingis skilfully connected: cut, colour, styles andmake-up. The same applies to traditional beautytreatments, from massages to nail reconstruction,from sun lamps to hair removal treatments. OpenMon-Sat 9am-8pm. www.rubertelli.com. Via V.Monti, 56. T: 02 468845. M1 Conciliazione. Map C3Severgnini – Severgnini epitomizes beautywith simple, natural, easy-to-manage hairstylesand practical cuts. Founded in the Seventies,it owes its reputation to the professionalism ofits staff, innovative trends and a combinationof traditional and innovative procedures. All itssalons offer a complete service: in addition to haircare, face and body treatments are also available.Severgnini has several locations scatteredthroughout the city (Corso Matteotti, Piazza Ducad’Aosta, Via Pascoli, Via Paolo da Cannobbio,Piazza S. Babila and via San Martino). Open Tues-Sat 9am-6pm. www.severgninimilano.it. Piazza S.Babila, 5. T: 02 76001648. M1San Babila. Map G4toni&GUY – Two young and dynamic salons(in via V. Monti and Galleria Passarella) offeringpersonalized cuts, studied according to thelines of your face and individual customerrequirements. Tony&Guy also boasts a prestigiousacademy, where hair stylists share experiences,and a beautifully packaged product line. OpenMon 11am-8pm; Tues-Wed-Fri 9.30am-9pm;Thurs 9.30am-9pm; Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. www.www.wheretraveler.com 21

Fashion Designer StoresMilan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world.Although high-end purchases can be made in any part of the city,several urban areas are also entirely given over to the businessof luxury shopping. First and foremost, the Quadrilatero dellamoda, set amidst four of Milan’s most expensive and prestigiousshopping streets, namely via Montenapoleone, via Manzoni, viadella Spiga and corso Venezia (see map p. 24). It is here that themost important fashion designers, of international repute, offer theirluxurious creations. Discover the world of fashion and glamour inthis unique, magical pedestrian precinct (also featuring a numberof small side streets dotted with glam boutiques).Beyond the Quad itself, shoppers can visit other just as goldendistricts such as Brera (see map p. 30), with corso Garibaldi andcorso Como, the Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera district (see mapp. 37) or the Duomo-Galleria-via Dante area.ALBerta Ferretti PHILOSOPHY –www.albertaferretti.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via Montanapoleone, 21/A. T:02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 SanBabila. Map G4alviero MARTINI 1° CLASSE – www.alvieromartini.it. Open Mon-Thurs 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Fri-Sat 10am-7pm. CorsoG. Matteotti corner of via P. Verri. T: 0276008002. M1 San Babila. Map G4Balenciaga – www.balenciaga.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 19.T: 02 760841. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4BLUmarine – www.blumarine.com. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via dellaSpiga, 42. T: 02 795081. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4BOTTEGA VENETA – www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76024495. M1 SanBabila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4Borsalino – www.borsalino.com. OpenTues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun-Mon 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II,92. T: 02 89015436. M1 Duomo. Map F3-F4BURBerrY – www.burberry.com. OpenMon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Bigli,2. T: 02 7608201. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4cesare PACIOTTI – www.cesare-paciotti.com. Women: Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.Via Sant’Andrea, 8. T: 02 76001338. M1 SanBabila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Men:Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea,8/A. T: 02 76001164. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4chanel – www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T:02 782514-76016545. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4CHURCH’S – www.church-footwear.com.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794.M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm.Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84. T: 0272094454. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5dior – www.diorcouture.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 12.T: 02 76317801. Map G4. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone.dolce&gaBBana – www.dolcegabbana.it.Men: open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. CorsoVenezia, 15. T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila.Map G4.• Women: open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 26. T: 02 76001155. M1San Babila. Map G4 • Accessories: via dellaSpiga, 2. T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4emilio PUcci – www.emiliopucci.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,14. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4ermenegildo Zegna – www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4etro – www.etro.it. Open Mon-Sun10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone,5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4FENDI – www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Thurs9.30am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm. ViaSant’Andrea, 16. T: 02 8852236. M1 San Babila.Map G422 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Fay – www.fay.it. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 15. T: 02 76017597. M1San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4Fratelli ROSSETTI – www.fratellirossetti.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4gattinoni – www.gattinoni.net. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni, 9. T: 0272094402. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4gianFranco FerrÈ – www.gianfrancoferre.it. Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pmby appointment. Via Pontaccio, 21. T: 02721341. M2 Lanza Brera-Piccolo Teatro.Map E3giorgio ARMANI – www.giorgioarmani.com. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 2. T: 02 76003234. M1 SanBabila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4GUCCI – www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Fri10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm.Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 •Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 10am-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.T: 02 8597991. M1, M3 Duomo. Map F5HermÈs – www.hermes.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea,21. T: 02 76003495. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4 • HermèsAeroporto di Milano-Aeroporto di MalpensaTerminal 1. T:02 58581265. oFF maphogan – www.hoganworld.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,23. T: 02 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G7Jil SANDER – www.jilsander.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via P. Verri, 6. T: 02 7772991.M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4JimmY CHOO – www.jimmychoo.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A.T: 02 45481770. M1 San Babila. Map G4KenZO – www.kenzo.com. Open Mon-Sat9am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni,25. T: 02 72080735. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4KriZia – www.krizia.it. Open Mon3pm-7.30pm; Tue-Sat 10am-7.30pm.Via della Spiga, 23. T: 02 76008429. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4laUra Biagiotti – www.laurabiagiotti.it.Open Mon 3pm -7pm; Tue–Sat 10am-1.30pm,2.30pm-7pm. Via Borgospesso, 19. T: 02799659. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4les COPAINS – www.lescopains.it. OpenMon 3pm-7pm Tue-Sat 10am-7pm.Via A. Manzoni, 21. T: 02 72080092. M3Montenapoleone. Map F4loro PIANA – www.loropiana.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone,27/c. T: 02 7772901. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4LUciano SOPRANI – www.lucianosoprani.it. Open Tue-Fri 10.30am -2.30pm, 3pm-7pm;Sat 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via E. Morosini, 30.T: 02 54063280. M3 Porta Romana. Map H6manolo BlahniK – www.manoloblahnik.com. Open Mon-Tues-Fri-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Wed-Thurs 10.30am-9pm. CorsoComo, 10. T: 02 654831. M2 Porta GaribaldiFS. Map F1mila ScHÖN – www.milaschon.com.Open Mon-Sat 10.30am -7.30pm.Via Vivaio, 11. T: 02 76281631. M1 Palestro.Map H4missoni – www.missoni.it. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea corner of viaBagutta. T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila.Map G4moschino – www.moschino.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 12. T: 0276000832. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4• Open Mon-Sat 10am -7.30pm.Via della Spiga, 30. T: 02 76004320.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4prada – www.prada.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Corso Venezia,3. T: 02 76001426. M1 San Babila. Map G4• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65.T: 02 876979. M1 Duomo. Map F5ralph LAUren – www.ralphlauren.com.Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 7788721.M1 San Babila. Map G4roBerta DI CAMERINO –www.robertadicamerino.com. Open byappointment. Corso Venezia, 29. T: 0276025820. M1 San Babila. Map G4roBerto CAVALLI –www.robertocavalli.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42.T: 02 76020900. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4rocco Barocco – www.roccobarocco.it.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.Via della Spiga, 31. T: 02 76000518.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4stella MC CARTNEY –www.stellamccartney.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 3.T: 02 76281222. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4tanino CRISCI – www.taninocrisci.com.Open Mon 3-7pm; Tue-Sun 10am-2pm,3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 3.T: 02 76021264. M1 San Babila.Map G4tod’S – www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 1-7pm. Via della Spiga,22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria VittorioEmanuele II. T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F5Trussardi – www.trussardi.it. ConceptStore: Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm.Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 8068821.M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 • Accessories:Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm.Via Sant’Andrea, 5. T: 02 8068821.M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4valentino – www.valentino.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4versace – www.versace.com.Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528.M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4vivienne WESTWOOD –www.viviennewestwood.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Corso Venezia, 25.T: 02 76080222-223. M1 San Babila.Map G4www.wheretraveler.com 23

ollaanV. del CarminedelolaV. CiovassoLauroV. dei BossiV. PorroneShoppingV. BreraV. MeloneV. dell’OrsoV. LupettaV. MercantiV. SpadariP.zaS. MarcoQuadrilatero Pinacoteca della moda(Quadrilaterodi Brerad’oro)The di Brera so-called “Quadrilaterodella moda” Osservatorio is situatedAstronomicoa short di distance BreraOrtoon footfrom the Duomo. Botanico This iswhere all the big designernames and most Ex Monte luxuriousstores in the di world Pietà cluster.Although the two mostfamous streets are viaMontenapoleone S. Giuseppe andvia della Spiga, all theothers located in the“Quadrilatero” also offera fabulous array of shopTeatrowindows alla that Scalawill literallymake you catch your Leonardobreath.V. ClericiV. BreraV. A. BoitoV. OreficiV. Mazzini V. MazziniV. G. VerdiErmenegildoV. DoganaZegnaV. MauriV. San MarcoP.ttaPalazzoCusaniV. T. GrossiV. HugoV. dell’UnioneV. ZebediaV. Fiori OscuriV. FilodrammaticiV. SanDalmazio.zadusioPal. deiGiureconsultiCordusioPalazzo dellaaggio Ragionetrale P.zaMercantiPassaggioDuomo DuomoP.zao XIzozioERAria delineP.tta M.BossiTeatro deiFilodrammatici24 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010V. FienoItaliaS. MarcoV. Monte di PietàV. S. PellicoV. Santa MargheritaV. GonzagaCorso di PoV. CernaiaLuxury shoppingMuseo delRisorgimentoV. AndegariMissoriV. FatebenefratelliV. dell’AnnunciataV. BorgonuovoDuomoV. Flli. GabbaP.za dellaScalaGalleriaVittorioEmanuele IIP.za delDuomoV. VelascaV. MoroneV. BigliV. Alessandro Manzoni V. Alessandro ManzoniV. FoscoloP.zaRealeV. RastrelliV. P. CannobioTorreVelascaV. San RaffaeleV. RadegondaV. HoepliV. Agnellodel Duomo PalazzoAcqua Arcivescovile di ParmaV. delle OreAcqua di Parma represents the expression ofa long tradition and the very quintessenceP.zaof Italian taste and elegance: meticulous S. Stefanoattention to detail, use of highly selectedmaterials, hand-crafted products, fromHome Fragrance and new Blu Mediterraneoto travels bags and accessories.V. Largawww.acquadiparma.itVia del Gesù, 3T: 02 76023307V. PantaQuesturaP.zaS. ErasmoV. dei GiardiniMontenapoleoneV. Palazzo RealeV. De MarchiAscensoreV. ChiaravalleV. MontenapoleoneOdeonV. Sant’AntonioPalazzoBorromeod’AddaCasaManzoniPalazzoBelgioiosoCasa degli P.zaOmenoni BelgioiosoP.zaL.goMedaMattioliPal. MarinoMunicipio S. FedeleP.zaS. FedeleDuomoPalazzoRealeL.go L. J.S. GottardoP.za S. M. Borges V. Giardino in CorteBeltrade Craftsmanship, innovation and attentionS. MariaP.zato presso detail: in occasion of the Centennial,Diazaspecial S. Satiro Collection has been developedGalleria emphasizing the historical and sartorialTorinoheritage Galleria of the Company. This unique andtimeless Mazzini collection is now available in thisGalleriadell’Unione Ermenegildo Zegna Boutique. (p. 23) TeatroLiricowww.zegna.it P.za. Alessandro Via Montenapoleone, Missori V. Albricci 27/ET: 02 76006437MuseoMuseoPoldiPezzoliStazioneCentraleArchi di PortaNuovaV. San PaoloGalleriaManzoniS. Francescodi PaolaV. BorgospessoV. P. VerriGalleriaLongobardiCorso Vittorio Emanuele IIGalleriaPattariV. San BergaminiV. PattariFesta del PerdonoV. F. TuratiV. Santo SpiritoCorso MatteottiP.za delLibertyGalleriadel ToroP.zaFontanaUniversitàdegli StudiTeatroManzoniV. S. Pietro all’OrteP.zaBeccariaV. del Vecchio PolitecnicoV. SenatoV. Francesco SforzaV. PalestroCorso VeneziaL.go deiL.goBersaglieri AugustoPisa OrologeriaV. VerziereS. BernardinoalleA watchOssalover’s paradise for over 50 years.Prestigious timepieces with particularattention to the latest innovations. Corso di Porta VittBasilica Assistance di centre and specializedBiblioteca ComunaleSanto Stefano workshop. (p 38) Centrale (PalazzoMaggioreSormani-Andreani)V. San BernardinoV. LaghettoP.zaCavourVigiliUrbaniV. D. ManinQUADRILATEROD’ORO● Ermenegildo ZegnaPisa Orologeria ●S. AntonioAbateMuseo BagattiValsecchiV. della SpigaV. Gesù● Acqua di ParmaV. Sant’AndreaV. BaguttaCorso EuropaV. CavallottiV. della SignoraCentroSvizzeroGalleriaPassarellaSkorpion ClubGalleria del Corso S. VitoP.leMorandiMuseo Civicodi MilanoGiardini PubbliciTeatrodi VerduraBiblioteca diVia Del SenatoMuseodi StoriaContemporaneaP.za S.BabilaS. Carlo Teatroal Corso NuovoS. BabilaL.go A.ToscaniniGalleriaStrasburgoV. Duriniwww.pisaorologeria.comVia Verri, corner ofvia Montenapoleone, 9T: 02 762081V. MarinaV. San PrimoV. BorgognaV. CervaV. GuastallaV. CervaV. MarzialeV. RonchettiV. Andreani V. ZaccariaGiardinodella GuastallaPalazzodel SenatoPalazzoFontana-SilvestriV. BoschettiV. San DamianoV. MarinaPalazzoSerbelloniCorso Monforte CGalleriaS. BabilaPalazzoDuriniGalleriad’ArteModernaS. PietroCelestinoTeatro SanBabilaS. BabilaPAC -PadiglioneContempoV. Uberto Visconti di ModroneSinagogaV. FilippoV. Cesare BV. FregugliaVVVV. Chiosset

Shoppingtoniandguy.it. Via V. Monti, 27.T: 02 48027137. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4wild BeaUTY – Just a short distance from theCastello Sforzesco, Wild Beauty aims to rejuvenateskin and soul. An expert team of professionals, asophisticated ambience and a host of services.Among the most popular, well worth a try are“beauty day”, a complete treatment including bodycare, manicure and pedicure, facials and peelings.Open Mon-Tues 8.30am-9pm; Wed-Thurs-Fri8.30am-9.30pm; Sat 10.30am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. www.wildbeauty.it. Corso Garibaldi, 30.T: 02 72023341. M2 Lanza, M2 Moscova. Map E3Books & MagazinesAMERICAN BooKSTORE – Situated just a stone’sthrow from Castello Sforzesco, for the past 30 years,this popular bookstore has been a reference pointfor English-speaking readers. Specializing in theclassics of American literature, it offers a wide arrayof titles, including scientific publications, books onart, cinema, theatre etc. Open Mon 1.30pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Largo Cairoli corner of via M.Camperio. T: 02 878920. M1 Cairoli. Map E4Fnac – An internationally renowned French chain, itoffers three floors featuring a vast range of products:books (also available in foreign languages) CDs,DVDs, videogames, cell phones, MP3, IT, TV, Hi-Fi,cameras and camcorders, a ticket service, photoprinting, bar and Internet Point. Open Mon-Sat9.30am-8pm; Sun 10am-8pm. www.fnac.it. ViaTorino, 45. T: 02 869541. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori.Map F5La Feltrinelli Libri e mUsica - Italy’s largest chainof music and book stores, it boasts numerouslocations scattered throughout the city. Just a fewsteps away from the Teatro Nazionale, three floorsof books (foreign language sections also available),CDs, DVDs, sheet music, magazines, videogames,new technologies, graphics, stationery andgadgets, talks and live music, bar, ticket office.Two locations in the city (piazza Piemonte, corsoBuenos Aires). Open Mon noon-9pm; Tues-Thurs10am-9pm; Fri-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 10am-8pm.www.lafeltrinelli.it. Piazza Piemonte, 2. T: 02 433541.M1 Wagner. Map B4La Feltrinelli International – A vast catalogueof titles in English, French, Spanish, German,Russian, Portuguese, Chinese, Arabic and others,foreign magazines, book launches with foreignauthors, audio books and DVDs. Open Mon-Fri9am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Piazza Cavour, 1. T: 02 6595644. M3 Turati. Map G3LIBreria INTERNAZionale Ulrico HOEPLI– One of Italy’s largest bookstores,the LibreriaInternazionale Hoepli offers over 500,000 titles(30% in foreign language versions), 6 floors ofbooks and 40 assistants well versed in all subjects.A wide range of foreign books and magazines.Subscriptions to Italian and foreign periodicalsand access to international databases forbibliographical and book research. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm. www.hoepli.it. Via U. Hoepli, 5. T: 02864871. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. Map F4melting POT-liBreria INTERNAZionaledel TASCABile – Just a few steps from themagnificent Roman church of Sant’Eustorgio andParco delle Basiliche, an excellent choice of booksin Spanish, English, French, Portuguese, Germanand Russian, almost all in paperback versions. Notonly classics and international bestsellers but alsoa selection of novels, detective stories, historicromances, narrative, self-help manuals and lovestories. Its associate bookstore Luoghi&Libri, agold mine of travel books and guides, mapsand postcards, can be found next door. OpenMon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7.30pm.www.libreriameltingpot.it. Via Vettabbia, 3. T: 0258310713. M3 Missori. Map E7mondadori MUlticenter – A chain ofmegastores scattered throughout the city,offering a wide assortment of books, CDs,DVDs, videogames, phones, electronics, IT, café,foreign newsstand and Internet Point. www.negozimondadori.it. Several locations in thecity (piazza Duomo, corso Vittorio Emanuele II,via Marghera, via Berchet). Mon-Sun 9am-11pm(Newsstand, Coffee Bakery and Fine Foods from7am). Piazza del Duomo, 1.T: 02 4544110. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Animal Houseby hostcontemporarymen’s store witha wide selectionof internationalbrandsProediComunicazione – Photo de lunaBarbourBlauerGaneshBlundstoneHartfordNew BalancePenfieldSebagoWilliam LockieVia A. Saffi, 7 – 20123 Milano – Tel: 02 4694900www.wheretraveler.com 25

ShoppingDepartment Stores& Shopping CentersLa Rinascente, a fabulous departmentstore overlooking the Duomo, is a real part ofMilan’s history. Open seven days a week:Mon-Sat 9.30 am-10pm; Sun 10am-10pmwww.rinascente.it Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 0288521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5.Another historic department store, extendingover several floors, is the Coin flagship storein piazza Cinque Giornate. Boasting a seamlessglass façade, it features one of the largest videowalls in Europe and serves as an interactivemedium for dialogue with the city. It offers anumber of excellent services and an array ofthe best fashion brands, ranging from clothingto accessories, from home design to food.It also has other branches located in corsoVercelli 44 and in piazza Cantore 12.Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-8.30pm;Sun 11am-8pm. www.coin.it.Piazza Cinque Giornate. T:0255192083.Map H5.Finally, also worth note is the piaZZAPortello shopping centre. Situated justoutside the center, in a rapidly expandingarea, this open-air mall hosts numerous shopsand facilities. Mon-Sun 8.30am-9pm. www.piazzaportello.it. Via Grosotto, 7. map A2.PANTON’S ENGLISH BooKshop – Spread outover two floors, Panton’s offers a vast selectionof books in English: narrative, history, children’sbooks, cookery, art… but also books on antiques,travel guides, maps and multi-media products.Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. www.yesplease.it.Via L. Mascheroni, 12. T: 02 4694468.M1 Conciliazione. map C4Children Clothing & ToysCittà del Sole – A chain of shops boasting a widerange of games and toys for all ages inc famousInternational brands and beautifully handcrafteditems. Tactical and strategic games, board games,draughts, backgammon, chess, architecturalmodels, building kits, boomerangs and countlessother fun items originating from all over Europe.Several locations in the city (via Orefici, viaSolari, via Spallanzani, corso Lodi, via Canonica).Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cittadelsole.it. Via Orefici, 13. T: 02 86461683. M1 Cordusio, M1Duomo. Map F5GUsella – Clothing and footwear for fashionconsciouskids with other sales point in the city.Range includes seasonal collections, party clothes,ceremonial attire for baptisms, communions,confirmations and bridesmaids dresses, in keepingwith the latest fashion trends, right up to theworld-renowned Gusella and Gusellina “first steps”footwear line, crafted with particular attention toorthopaedic aspects. Several locations in the city(corso Vittorio Emanule II, corso Vercelli, corso diPorta Romana, corso San Gottardo). Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.gusella.it.Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 37/B. T: 02 796533.M1 San Babila. Map G4imaginariUM – A chain with many stores inthe city that combines learning, entertainmentand good old-fashioned fun for children andyoung mothers, bursting with useful, irresistibleideas. The perfect gift for a faraway friend or alast-moment present. Products are divided upby categories with clear, strategically placedindications. Several locations in the city (largoAugusto, corso Buenos Aires, corso Vercelli,corso di Porta Romana and 4 other stores).Open Mon 1pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.www.imaginarium.it. Largo Augusto, 10.T: 02 76011992. M1 San Babila. G5la LUna E… – A small, charming children’s clothingstore with a welcoming atmosphere, bornfrom a passion for the creation of personalized,handcrafted collections. The owner, SimonaSforza, also stocks women’s clothing andknitwear, with exclusive styles, made-to-order,in a range of trendy fashion styles. Deliciousdresses for debutantes and ceremonies at trulyaffordable prices. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.lalunae.com.Via F. Ferrucci, 16. T: 02 3494960. M1-M2 Cadorna.Map C2mariUccia – Just a stone’s throw from theDuomo, this exclusive boutique offers a fabulousarray of babies and children’s clothing. Designerlabels stocked inc Cavalli, Armani, Moncler, Liujo,MissBlumarine, La Martina, Dolce&Gabbana andBurberry’s. Ultra-stylish mothers and childrenwill find a warm, welcoming atmosphere. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.mariucciamilano.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II(Galleria De Cristoforis, 1). T: 02 76023101. M1 SanBabila. MAP G5PUpi SOLARI - Located in one of Milan’s most charmingsquares, it is one of the most elegant and traditionalMilanese shops for little “lords” and “princesses”. It hasbeen making and selling children’s clothes for morethan 40 years. Toys to play with and a small tea roominside the shop guarantee a high class shoppingexperience for those who enjoy being pampered.Though stocking a number of brands, it offers aclassic selection, almost giving the impression ofbeing a monobrand store. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Piazza N. Tommaseo, 2.T: 02 463325. M1 Conciliazione. MAP C4Clothing – Men & WomenABercrombie & Fitch – Hoodies or garments forcool girls and guys: casual, high-quality apparelbrimming with enough personality to havebeen dubbed a “lifestyle brand”. In the US, theAbercrombie & Fitch phenomenon dates backto the sixties while, in Europe, the fad started justa few years ago. In October, 2009, following theinauguration of its new flagship store in Milan,in the very heart of the fashion centre, there wasa queue for days! Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm;Sun noon-8pm. www.abercrombie.com. CorsoMatteotti, 12. T: 800 977839 (accessible only fromItalian numbers). M1 San Babila. Map g4agnona – Since 1953, its philosophy has beenbased on the quality of its raw materials which arealways and only the very best. Agnona’s expertisein textiles has resulted in the creation of chic,easy-to-wear women’s knitwear and prêt-a-portercollections which are always enhanced by newand surprising variations. In addition to accessories,it also produces a home collection which includesthrows, blankets, cushions, housecoats and slippersall made from the finest textiles. Open Mon-Sun10am-7pm. www.agnona.it. Via Montenapoleone,21. T: 02 76316530. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4al BAZar – Superior quality materials and anauthentic passion for tailoring. According to theowner “style has nothing to do with fashion, it’ssomething that comes from inside”. This elegantstore carries high-end men’s clothing for formaland casual wear. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7.30pm.www.albazarmilano.it. Via A. Scarpa, 9. T: 02 433470.M1 Pagano. Map C4allegri – A Tuscan company known throughoutthe world for its men’s and women’s outerwearcollections including raincoats and jacketsmade from techno-fabrics and cut accordingto an elegant, contemporary, understatedstyle – a perfect blend of technology andItalian craftsmanship. Also stocks casual jackets,waterproof wool polo shirts and coats lined withreal goose down for colder winter days as wellas coordinated bags and umbrellas. Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.allegri.it Corso Venezia, 15. T: 02 796547. M1 SanBabila. Map G4animal HOUse – Contemporary menswearstocking a wide selection of international brandsat this store created as an offshoot of Host (seelisting). Animal House is gradually becoming adestination address for men in the know. OpenMon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via A.Saffi, 7. T: 02 4694900. M1 Conciliazione, M1-M2Cadorna. Map D4antonia BOUtiQUE – In the heart of Milan, AntoniaGiacinti offers a tasteful, elegant selection of thebest clothing and accessory collections. A perfectblend of renowned luxury brands and emergingdesigner labels. A real reference point for thosein search of simple, sophisticated garmentsfeaturing a contemporary though timeless look.Two locations (Boutique and Accessories: ViaPonte Vetero, 1 corner of via Cusani; Man: Via PonteVetero, 9). Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. www.antonia.it. Via Ponte Vetero, 1. T: 0286998340. M2 Lanza. Map E4aspesi – Likes to define its style as “ basic, with atwist”. The cult brand, created in 1990 by fashionveteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailoredlines, elegant details and natural materials. Hiscurrent collections are still based on the original“no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all thosewho like their outerwear without flashy labels.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. ViaMontenapoleone, 13. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4BallantYne – Unique, impeccable, contemporarycreations featuring a British-style flavour. All itemsare hand-made according to a complex artisanalprocedure based on over 100 years of experience.A premier producer of cashmere knitwear it alsosells jackets, trousers and skirts with particularattention to patterns (including the famous26 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Shoppingdiamond-shaped ones) and colours, available in asmany as 50 different exclusive shades. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.ballantyne.it Via Sant’Andrea10/A. T: 02 76017060. M1 San Babila. Map G4Bardelli – Founded in 1941 as a hat shop, Bardelli’sgradually grew to become the elegant emporiumthat it is today. Specializing in “cashmere, cottonand silk”, it is housed in a nineteenth centurypalazzo and offers a range of beautiful menand women’s collections including suits, shoes,knitwear, textiles for the home and marvellousaccessories. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.mbardelli.com. Corso Magenta, 13. T:02 86450734. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map E5Bel BOUtiQUE – This elegant, centrally locatedMilanese boutique stocks international designerlabels. Clothing, footwear and accessories forwomen and children. Always in search of newstyles, it anticipates fashion trends to offerits clientele unusual garments that make thedifference. Designer labels sold inc ErmannoScervino, Herno, Michael Kors and R.E.D Valentino.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Via S. Damiano, 2 cornerof Corso Monforte. T: 02 794489. M1 San Babila.Map G4Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.brianebarry.it. Via Durini, 28.T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila. Map G4BrooKS Brothers – The symbol of maleelegance since 1818, this American clothing andaccessories brand is distinguished by high qualityand sartorial tradition. Known since its inceptionfor its shirting, it all began in the early 20thcentury with a new line of button down shirts,inspired by those worn by British polo playersand currently one of the hallmark features of thebrand. For men and women in search of a totallook exuding casual elegance. Open Mon-Sat10.30am-7.30pm. www.brooksbrothers.com.Via San Pietro all’Orto, 10. T: 02 76018081. M1 SanBabila. Map G4BRooksfield – Established in 1971, by UmbertoMaria Montasterolo as a brand of men’s trousers,in just a few years it achieved total look statuscombining the quality of Made-in-Italy with arefined British-style imprint. Its flagship store formen and women was founded in 1995, in theheart of the fashion quad. Open: Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.brooksfield.com. CorsoVenezia, 12. T: 02 76006242. M1 Porta Venezia.Map g4a blend of sartorial perfection, tradition andsophistication. Classic and contemporary maleelegance with no frills. Its fabrics are made fromthe noblest yarns and the boutique offers a“bespoke” service for those in search of unique,personalized garments. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. www.corneliani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 26.T: 02 76317955. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4daad – A multi-brand boutique for him and herwhich continues to surprise clients with itsfashion aptitude and insight into trends. Famouslabels are showcased in its sophisticated thoughwelcoming interior. It has three stores, all locatedin Milan’s historical shopping district (via dellaSpiga, corso Matteotti, via Santo Spirito). OpenMon 2pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.www.daad-dantone.com. Via della Spiga, 25.T: 02 76002120. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4diesel – A wholly Italian cult brand, invented byRenzo Rosso and famed throughout the worldfor its quality, creativity and slightly quirky air. Afavourite with young people of all ages. Amongits several sales points, worth particular note isits giga-store in San Babila. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.diesel.com. Piazza San Babila, 1/3.T: 02 76396762. M1 San Babila. Map G4Bellora – Founded in 1883, Bellora is the finesthome linen manufacturer in Italy. Boastingyears of experience, research and technologicalinnovation, with Bellora, linen stars in every roomof the house, for a spontaneous, fresh lifestylemarked by simplicity and elegance. The storespecializes in crisp, all-season linens. As delicateas the products look, everything except thecashmere and wool throws is washable. Alsofeatures a cosy nightwear selection inc silkychemises and lightweight robes. In additionto three shops (Via Monti, 27; Via Durini, 17; ViaManzoni, 43) Bellora also has corners in the Coinflaggship stores. www.bellora.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Manzoni, 43. T: 026596361. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4BIFFI – Located in one of Milan’s trendiest districts,it carries the majority of the best-known fashionbrands. An ideal address for those in search ofthat casual, elegant look that only Italians knowhow to achieve. Clothing but also sneakers andaccessories. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.biffi.com. CorsoGenova 5/6. T: 02 83116052. M2 Sant’Agostino,Sant’Ambrogio. Map D6Boggi – “Being elegant and feeling at ease onany occasion, expressing one’s personality withdistinction”. This is the philosophy of Boggi, a realinstitution in the panorama of male eleganceworldwide. It also boasts numerous sales pointsscattered throughout the city (piazza San Babila,corso Vercelli, corso Buenos Aires, Porta Romana,corso Como, largo Augusto, via Maddalena,Galleria Passarella) and at the airports (Linate eMalpensa). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.it. Piazza San Babila, 3. T: 02 76000366. M1San Babila. Map G4Brian & BarrY – Despite its name, this is awholly Italian brand. It has a series of multi-brandboutiques with various sales points in Milan (viaDurini, corso Vercelli, corso Buenos Aires). It carriesclassic and casual men and women’s wear. Openchicchi GINEPRI – Chicchi Ginepri has three storesin Milan of which only one carries both menand women’s clothing (via Manin, viale Murilloand, only for women, piazzale G. De Agostini). Itstocks most of the main designer labels includingfootwear and accessories. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.chicchiginepri.it. Via D.Manin, 13. T: 02 6597956. M3 Turati. Map G3corneliani – The company manufactureshand-finished clothing and accessories for men,Eleonora scaramucci – Starting with its shopwindows, the Eleonora Scaramucci store delightsthe eyes of passersby with its selection of refinedwomen’s wear. Also stocks its own “total look”brand name. In September, 2009, Scaramucciopened her own outlet, just a short distancefrom the store. Shop hours: Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Outlet hours:Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm.www.eleonorascaramucci.com. Via Dell’Orso, 1.T: 02-8052216. Map f4SPOTLIGHTLiving ideasThe idea of this design concept storeis to offer industrial structures as homefurnishing solutions. High Tech is a mix offunctionalism, aesthetics and a touch ofquirkiness for a perfect contemporary, urban,loft-style chic. Located in a 19th centurybuilding overlooking a picturesque Milanesecourtyard, you can find sofas, armchairs,tables, chairs, beds and bookshelves but alsoperfumes, exercise books, lamps, kitchenware and even clothing. Getready to be surprised because the atmosphere of this multi-space,founded by the Bacchini brothers in 1982 and extending over 2000square metres, changes according to the mood of its owners and theseasons: you might meet a chef preparing a soufflé, have a chance totaste Christmas biscuits or discover the soothing tones of Moroccanmusic. In 2009, the store registered a visitor attendance of 420,000people – an absolute “must-try” experience! Piazza XXV Aprile, 12.www.wheretraveler.com 27

ShoppingELIANE – A fashion store dedicated to original, edgyfashions for the younger woman. It carries all thebest brands popular with the under 40’s but notonly. Its other shops are located in via Monti, viaLorenteggio, corso Genova. The courtyard adjacentto its via Belfiore location houses an outlet forbargain hunters. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.eliane.it. ViaBelfiore, 7.T: 02 4692121. M1 Wagner, M1 Pagano. Map B4gemelli – Established in 1927, this upscale shopis a part of Milan’s history. Over the years, it hasstocked every major designer label and now offersits own collection which reflects Milanese styleto perfection. Famed for its cashmere knitwear,Gemelli boasts a women’s and men’s fashionboutique with two adjacent shops for children andsportswear. Just across the road, you can find theKid’s store Gemellino and “Country Club”, a shopspecialized in sportswear, a “country club” boutiqueand one dedicated exclusively to socks. Open Mon3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.www.gemelli.it. Corso Vercelli, 16.T: 02 48000057. M1 Pagano, M1 Conciliazione.Map C4GUess – All-American looks with a uniquely Europeanattention to detail. Though jeans represent thecornerstone of the company’s history and success,today Guess also designs, markets and distributescomplete clothing collections for men, womenand children. Innovative lines featuring lots ofdenim for a strong, trendy, personality-filled look.Two locations (Corso Buenos Aires, 36 corner of viaMelzo; Via Dante, 7). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 12am-7.30pm. www.guess.com. Via Dante, 7. T:02 72094530. M1 Cordusio. Map E4henrY COTTON’S – One of the best-known namesin leisure wear, the new, Milan-based boutique,designed by Anouska Hempel, is spread out over3 floors and furnished with custom-built furnitureinspired by travel and sport. Scattered throughoutthe store are leather trunks, chromed metal cases,hockey sticks, wooden skis, boxing gloves andsports trophies. A strong reference to the Britishheritage of the brand, which draws inspiration fromthe classic Anglo-American lifestyle. Open Mon-Sat10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.henrycottons.it. Corso Venezia, 7. T: 02 76028319. M1San Babila. Map G4host – This elegant men’s shop was established asthe male counterpart of the historic Pupi Solari(see listing) women’s boutique. It not only carriesan assortment of traditional but also lesser knownbrands and is a favourite with Milanese men inthe know. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. Piazza N.Tommaseo, 2. T: 02 436085. M1 Conciliazione.Map C4iceBerg – A brand with a strong identity, Icebergis known for its simple, tailored, elegant styledesigned for dynamic fashion-conscious individuals.Chic sportswear with couture undertones. Men’sand women’s clothing, accessories, perfumes,homeware and children’s clothing from 12 monthsto 12 years. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.iceberg.com. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 782385. M1 SanBabila. Map G4incontri – Set within a quiet, residential area, thiselegant, fashionable shop is in perfect sync withthe brands showcased. The shop recently added asection entirely dedicated to accessories. Open Mon3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm;Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.modaincontri.com.Via E. Biondi corner of via Piero della Francesca.T: 02 313177. Map B1la TENDA – The first sales point of this group wasestablished in 1965 and is an institution of luxurymulti-brand labels on the Milanese scene. Itsboutiques (in addition to its first via Plinio location,it has two other shops, one in Brera and the otherin Via M. Pagano) offer a vast and carefully chosenselection of women’s collections. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.latendamilano.com. Piazza SanMarco, 1.T: 02 6575804. M2 Moscova. MAP F2larUsmiani concept BOUtiQUE– An expressionof timeless style and a leitmotif of sophisticatedelegance located in the heart of Milan’s fashionquad in the now completely renovated historicstore opened in 1954. A Concept Boutiqueextending over 700 sq.m. on three floors, it oozessimplicity and understated luxury, reflecting thesubtlety of its sumptuous apparel. The perfectplace to build your wardrobe with exclusivepieces. Larusmiani takes luxury retail to a newlevel. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm www.larusmiani.it.Via Montenapoleone, 7. T: 02 76006957.M1 San Babila. Map G4LUisa Beccaria – A brand boasting anunmistakable, romantic and feminine style. Highfashionand prêt-a-porter collections, painstakingattention to detail and artisan embroidery representItalian fashion throughout the world. For womenwho believe that femininity is a plus to be flauntedand worn on a daily basis. Also stocks bridal gownsand children’s clothing. Has several branches (Bridal:Via Fiori Chiari 17; Boutique: via Formentini, 1). OpenMon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Open every third Sunday of the month. www.luisabeccaria.it. Via M. Formentini, 1. T: 02 8638071.M2 Lanza. Map E3LUisa SPAGNOLI – Historic Italian company anda leader in the fashion and clothing industry.An excellent source for elegant, classical andcontemporary styles and accessories. The storehas several branches scattered throughout Milan(Corso Buenos Aires, 39; Corso Vittorio Emanuele -Galleria S. Carlo; Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, 69; CorsoVercelli, 35; Corso XXII Marzo, 5). Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.luisaspagnoli.it.Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, 69. T: 02 8057577. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5maX MARA – An Italian fashion house known for itsready-to-wear clothing. Established in 1951, since itsinception, Max Mara has always offered clean-cut,beautifully tailored lines. Although it has numeroussales points scattered throughout Milan, Italy andthe rest of the world, it is not a chain store but rathera real designer label. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.maxmara.com. PiazzaLiberty-corso Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 76008849.M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. Map G5miss SIXTY – The young, trendy and edgy style ofMiss Sixty, an Italian brand known throughout theworld, has been defined by fashionistas as “streetchic”.Particularly appreciated for the wide offer ofdenims with a unique, original style, the collectionsdistinguish themselves for their feminine, seductive,contemporary and ironic style. A hot favourite withteenagers. Two stores in Milan (via Montenapoleone,via Solferino). Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm.www.misssixty.com. Via Montenapoleone, 27.T: 02 76390698. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4moncler – Boutique and home to the famous“puffer” jackets which, in addition to the lines of itsmain sportswear collection, also carries the GammeBleu for men and the Gamme Rouge for women, anultra-sophisticated line featuring noble fabrics andhighly sought-after details that combine the styleof haute couture with superior-quality materialsthat have made Moncler a leading name in winterouterwear. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.moncler.com. Via della Spiga,7. T: 02 76025913. M1 San Babila. Map G4nadine – Inaugurated in 1990 and based on anidea by two young entrepreneurs, Clemente andAlberto Halfon, Nadine Fashion stands for eleganceand attention to new trends. Its six stores, scatteredthroughout the city, from Corso Vittorio Emanueleto Corso Vercelli, offer a wide range of clothes, shoes,bags and accessories, specially designed to suit theeveryday needs of the dynamic woman. Continuallyupdated collections and attention to detail ensureglam, superior quality garments suitable for alloccasions. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm.www.nadinefashiongroup.it. Corso VittorioEmanuele II, 34. T: 02 76009028. M1-M3 Duomo,M1 San Babila. Map G5patriZia PEPE – Urban fashion for fast moving girls.Elegant, contemporary clothing and accessoriesfeaturing practical, original details. For a look suitedto all occasions, from leisure wear to evening wear.Curvy cuts, clever colours and beautifully refinedfinishes for a snappy, feminine look. Ready-to-wearcollections for men and women, children’s fashions,accessories, lingerie, beach wear and homewear.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.patriziapepe.com. Via Montenapoleone, 38. T: 0276014477. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4piomBO – A twin-level Baroque-style store located inan historic building in the heart of Milan’s shoppinghub. Sartorial made-to-measure collections anda large assortment of silks, scarves and leatheraccessories, also handcrafted, for men. OpenMon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.piomboworld.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23.T: 02 76014932. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4PUpi SOLARI – In 1969, Pupi Solari, a woman ofexquisite taste, opened this children’s shop whichnow also offers an eye-catching collection ofwomen’s clothing. The shop is connected to themen’s boutique Host (see listings). They also have anoutlet right next door to the shop. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via L. Mascheroni, 12.T: 02 463325. M1 Conciliazione. Map C4RUggeri – Located in the heart of Milan, since 1938it has catered to a discerning clientele of Milaneseand International customers. Offers a selectionof hard-to-find, supremely elegant, innovativecollections. For gentlemen in search of high qualityknitwear and beautifully tailored shirts. Open Mon1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.www.ruggeriabbigliamento.it. Piazza Duomo, 21. T:02 86462173. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F528 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

MILAN LUXURYLA DIAMANTERIAThis jewellery shop pays homage to the king of all stones even with itsname. Thanks to 23 jewellery showcases, the Diamanteria makes clearwhat business it is in: classic pieces, such as tennis bracelets and solitaires,and high-level design pieces created by hand. White, coloured andblack diamonds as well as precious stones, chocolate pearls and goldallow for complete customization of pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm;3pm-7.30pm. Map C4www.ladiamanteria.comVia Vincenzo Monti, 47T: 02 466891More info: www.wheremilan.comDAMIANIMaster craftsmen since 1924, Damiani boasts a longstanding traditionin goldsmithing which it has always interpreted with an innovativespirit. Clean-cut lines combined with a refined and classic thoughcontemporary elegance are the hallmark features of the Damianijewellery line showcased in its flagship store designed by AntonioCitterio. The collections, displayed in a well-lit space and createdby master goldsmiths in keeping with the best Italian tradition, areadmired throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4www.damiani.comVia Montenapoleone, 10 – T: 02 76028088More info: www.wheremilan.comE. MARINELLAEstablished in 1914, the Marinella brand is known throughout theworld for its stylish, hand-made neckties, worn by heads of state,industrial magnates and celebrities. In addition to the legendaryshop – still located in Naples – and its sophisticated Milanboutique, E. Marinella ties are also sold at its single-brand storein Tokyo. New openings in Lugano from November 2010 andin London at the beginning of 2011. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. M1 Cordusio. Map F5www.marinellanapoli.itVia Santa Maria alla Porta, 5 – T: 02 86467036More info: www.wheremilan.comFABRIANO BOUTIQUEThe boutique sells superlative quality luxury stationer’s items,combining the high quality of Fabriano paper with materials,such as leather and linen, to make even the most simple ofeveryday items special. Products include diaries, bags, wallets,notepads, photo albums, cards and an array of different articlesproduced using only the most exclusive Italian raw. The perfectplace to rediscover the joy of writing. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2.30pm-7.30pm. M1 Cairoli. Map E4www.fabrianoboutique.comVia Ponte Vetero, 17 – T: 02 76318754More info: www.wheremilan.comADVERTISEMENTwww.wheretraveler.com 29

V. Mazziniaavoia. Losanna. PolizianoerruccioV. MussiV. Fratelli IndunoV. Giulio C. ProcacciniCorso SempioneV. A. CanovaCorso MagentaV. San VittoreV. F. Melzi D’Erilincenzo Monti V. Vincenzo Montiio PaganoV. S. Michele del CarsooppaaisoV. L. CastelvetroioneodossolaanniIIIV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MascheroniV.le di Porta VercellinaV. Montevideondrea SolariV. Nicolò TartagliaV. Paolo LomazzoV.le G. MiltonV. Gian Battista VicoV. Giulio C. ProcacciniV. G. B. BertiniV.le Papiniano V.le PapinianoavonaV. TassoV. M. BandelloV. CeranoV. Monviso V. MonvisoV. F. LondonioV. Andrea Massena V. MoscatiV. N. MachiavelliV. G. RevereV. PetrarcaV. P. TamburiniV. G. RovaniV. degli OlivetaniV.le Coni ZugnaVentimigliaV. A. AleardiV. E. Alemagna30 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010ortonaV. XX SettembreP.za P.zaConciliazione Giovineonciliazione Italia CenacoloVincianoP.le F.araccaiaCSpazio AcquaBULLONAShoppingP.zaGerusalemmeL.go VAlpiniLuxury shoppingBreraP.zaTommaseoV. A. SaffiV. B. ZenaleV. Luigi NonoV. Paolo Sarpi V. Paolo SarpiV. G. LeopardiV. de TogniV. OlonaV. AribertoDP.zaCoriolanoV. MessinaV. RosminiV. Luigi CanonicaV. A. BertaniV. CarroccioV.le GV. BoccaccioV. Giosuè CarducciV. E. De AmicisV. AusonioV. MessinaV.le GabrV. SimonettaV. G. B. NiccoliniV. d’OggionoCorso C.olombo Corso GenovaV. G. GiustiV.le W. GoetheV. TerraggioV. S. VincenzoV. LanzoneV. Cesare Sesto V. G. FerrariV. S. CalogeroCimiteroMonumentaleThis centrally locateddistrict is named after viaL.goBrera Gramsci which, since the 18thcentury, L.go has C. housed theGaddafamous Accademia di BelleL.go L.Arti. One of the Medici liveliestP.za S. S.areas in the city, its narrow Trinitàcobbled streets host anumber of interesting chicantique shops, galleries,P.zacafés, restaurantsP.za dei Sempione and bars.Its neighbouring Volontari Arco streets,Corpus dellaDominiMon.including corso Pace Garibaldi NapoleoneIIIand corso Como, are homeTorreto several of the Branca trendiest Parcoaddresses in the city. SempioneMuseo Teatralealla ScalaV.le ElveziaV.le GadioV.le MaltaForo BuonaparteCorso MagentaV. Conca del NaviglioP.leCimiteroMonumentaleV. S. ValeriaV. CeresioV.le MontelloV. CorrentiV. ArenaV. BramanteV. P. CapuccioV. CollodiCorso di Porta TicineseV. Carlo FariniBastioni diPorta VoltaV. LegnanoV.le GadioCastelloSforzescoStazioneCadornaP.leMalpensa CadornaExpress Cadorna FNMTriennaleS. NicolaoS. Mariadella Grazie L.go P.Palazzod’Ancona LittaPalazzodelleStellineTriennale -Palazzodell’ArtePORTAVOLTAArenaCivicaP.zaBaiamontiP.le LegaLombardaAcquarioCivicoMuseod’Arte Anticae PinacotecaP.za CastelloV. S.G.sul MuroV. S. M.PortaMuseoArcheologicoV.le CrispiV. Alessandro VoltaForo BuonaparteV. DanteV. MeravigliCorso GaribaldiV. Molino delle ArmiCorso ComoV. P. Borsierio Italia Corso ItaliaBastioni di Porta NuovaV. Moscova V. MoscovaV. Sant’OrsolaV. TorinoV. Guglielmo PepeV. Maurizio QuadrioV. MaroncelliV.le PasubioTeatroStrehlerLanzaBreraV. S. M.FulcorinaV. PontaccioV. MercatoL.goCairoliCairoliV. S. MaurilloParco delleBasilicheV. Santa CroceV. PalermoV. SolferinoV. DiscipliniV. OreficiV. TorinoV. CornaggiaV. OlmettoCorso GaribaldiV. F. ChiariP.za S.S. VittoreAmbrogioal CorpoBasilica diS. AmbrogioRosso Prezioso S. AmbrogioCarceriUniversitàLuisa BeccariaP.zaMuseo NazionaleS. VittoreCattolicaMentanadella ScienzaThis small concept del Sacro Cuoree della store Tecnica is perfect forA brand boasting an unmistakable,intellectual-chic shopping featuring the S. Bernardinoromantic and feminine style. High-fashionbest of Made-in-Italy. Under the creative alle and Monache prêt-a-porter L.go collections, painstakingdirectorship of Cristina Bacchetti,attention to detail Carrobbio and artisan embroideryit offers original collections of high-fashion P.za represent Italian fashion throughoutResistenzacostume jewellery featuring an elegant,P.zaPartigiana the world. Also stocks Basilica bridal gowns andS. innovative Agostino design. S. Agostino M2 Moscova-M3 Turati. children’s Antica clothing. Pta. M2 S. Lanza. Lorenzo (p. 28)TicineseMaggiore(p. 31 )P.zaParcoVetraSolari www.rossoprezioso.comwww.luisabeccaria.itVia San Fermo, 1Via Anfiteatro M. Formentini, 1TeatroRomanoT: 02 654841T: 02 8638071LiberoP.leCantoreMuseoDiocesanoES. Antonioda PádovaV.PiattiV. BrolettoV. CrocefissoV. C. Del FanteV. San LucaTeatro delBurattoV. De CristoforisV. SolferinoS. MariaIncoronataL.go MoscovaLa FoppaV. BreraV. dell’OrsoV.le Monte GrappaV. San MarcoV. G. VerdiCorso Porta NuovaV. FatebenefratelliV. S.MargheritaV. ConfalonieriV. De CastilliaStazionePorta GaribaldiP.taGaribaldi FSP.le XXVTeatroAprile SmeraldoPortaGaribaldiPORTATENAGLIAL.goTrevesBasilica di SanSimplicianoV.le L. SturzoV. CastelfidardoFondazioneMuseo L.Minguzzi Chiesa AnglicanaBRERAAngela Caputi ●GiuggiùV. MontebelloP.zaS. MarcoPinacotecadi BreraS. Maria●delLuisa Beccaria Museo delCarmineRisorgimentoMontenapoleoneP.zaBorsa CordusioBibliotecaPinacotecaAmbrosianaBasilica S. EustorgioV. AlbricciCorso di Porta RomanaV. G. MercalliV. Santa SofiaV. Melchiorre GioiaOspedaleFatebenefratelliV. AnnunciataV. Vignoni VV. Alessandro ManzonivoiaV. S. CalimeroV.le Monte SantoV. MontenapoleoneV. BigliV. LargaV. SassettiL.go DeBenedettiGioiaV. AppianiV. F. TuratiStudio Museo TuratiTreccaniS. Marco QuesturaCordusio Emanuele IIDuomo DuomoP.za delDuomoPalazzoRealePta.NuovaTeatroalla Scala P.za L.godella ScalaMattioliPal. MarinoMunicipioGalleriaVittorioS. SatiroFRosso Prezioso ●Società per leBelle Arti edEsposizionePermanenteS. AngeloCorso MatteottiCorso V. Emanuele IIV. F. d. PerdonoV. PirelliPORTANUOVAP.zaAngela Diaz CaputiGiuggiùV. VerziereP.za S.StefanoV. Francesco SforzaCorso PortV. GalileiV. Daniele ManinV. SenatoV. della SpiganoV. S. AndreaS. BabilaV. d. SignoraV.CardanoV. Gen. G. FaraRepubblicaP.za dellaRepubblicaP.zaCavourV. PalestroV. DuriniCorso EuropaV. CervaV. GuastallaCorso di PortaV. Fabio FilziCorso VeneziaV. Visconti di MV. della CommendaV. GalGrattaPP.za S.Gioachino RepubbliAmericanContourellaV.le TV.leV. MBasGiardinPubblicCivGalleriad’ArteModernaPalazzodel SenatoP.za S.BabilaV. SDamianV. RonchettiV. BaP.zaMissoriA brand renowned throughout the world.Missori TorreSophisticated,GiardinoVelasca original creations madedellafrom unusual materials such Università as plasticS. Naz.Guastalla Sinagogand resin, combined Maggiore to create uniqueobjects P.za both in terms of colour and shape.Erculea P.za S. OspedaleA magical blend of contemporary Nazaro and Maggioreclassical P.za S. taste. M2 Lanza. (p. 20 and 36) di Milano -EufemiaPoliclinicowww.angelacaputi.comVia Madonnina, 11TeatroS. Paolo S. Maria dellaCarcanoConverso T: 02 86461080VisitazioneCrocettaGCoV. FreV. SV.V.

ShoppingTINCATI – An historic emporium since 1965, Tincatiincarnates the very style of Milan: sophisticated,classic, elegant and unmistakable. For men who liketo make a low-key statement by focusing on detailsthat make the difference. Luxury men’s boutique inthe heart of Milan’s quadrilatero d’oro. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.tincati.mi.it. Via Gesù, 7.T: 02 76028050. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4viativoli – A boutique boasting 3 sales points in thecity (via Orefici, corso Magenta, corso Genova) forwomen’s clothing distinguished by femininity anda touch of French flair. Open Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Orefici, 26. T: 02 86464543.M1 Cordusio. Map F5Concept Stores10 CORSO COMO – A unique and ever-expandingmix of selling spaces grouped around a beautifulcourtyard in Corso Como’s pedestrian area. Worthparticular note are the Galleria Carla Sozzani, a bookstore stocking design books, boutiques, musthaveluxury goods, a café and a restaurant. OpenMon-Tues-Fri-Sat-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm; Wed-Thurs10.30am-9pm. www.10corsocomo.com. CorsoComo, 10. T: 02 653531. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2cargo – Home furnishings, books, perfumes, candles,carpets and a sector dedicated to tropical plants.An exotic open space reconverted from a famousMilanese industrial factory but also a cultural centrehosting discussions on art, food, music and games.Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.hightechmilano.com.Via A. Meucci, 39. T: 02 2722131.M2 Crescenzago. OFf MapdisneY STORE – Part of the International chain ofstores specializing in Disney products, several ofwhich are created exclusively for their shops. Theentire universe of Disney films and cartoons ison offer with games, books, DVDs, puppets andgadgets of all types. Open Mon-Sun 10am-8.30pm.T: 02 76317908-218. www.disneystore.it. CorsoVittorio Emanuele II, 30. M1 San Babila. Map G5on two floors, where you can find all the officialmerchandise of the “most prominent club in theworld”. Special price discounts for fans of the OfficialA.C. Milan Page on Facebook. Open: 7/7 from 10am-8pm. www.acmilan.com. Corso Vittorio EmanueleII-Galleria San Carlo. T: 02 89765408. M1-M3 Duomo.Map g5moronigomma – A Milanese company oflongstanding tradition, boasting over 80 yearsof experience in the production of high qualityplastic materials. It offers a wide assortment ofhome and office equipment, original gift ideasand customized solutions. Delivers all over theworld. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.moronigomma.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 14.T: 02 796220. M1 San Babila. Map G4MUJI – Distinguished by its minimalist design and ecofriendlyapproach, this store is a part of the famouschain of “made-in-Japan” furniture, clothing andhigh-tech items, with 3 stores in the city (via Torino,corso Buenos Aires, corso Vercelli). Muji’s strategyis based on low-key design and functionalism ataffordable prices. Open Mon 12am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.muji.eu.Via Torino, 51. T: 02 809441. M1 Cordusio. Map F5nella LONGARI HOME – An elegant display area inthe heart of Milan, offering a rich picking of homeaccessories. Innovative materials and vibrant colours,in a range of traditional and contemporary options,often featuring bold combinations of plastics andceramics, silver and fabrics. Worth particular noteare its rattan objects imported from Burma. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm.T: 02 782066. www.nellalongari.com. Via Bigli, 12.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4SPOTLIGHTnUmero Uno Milano – Established in 1984 inthe heart of Milan’s Chinatown”, this dealership is a“must” destination for Harley-Davidson fans. Unique,unconventional motorbikes that embody theHarley-Davidson spirit to the full: a look at the pastprojected towards the future. Several sales pointsin the same road (Motorbike Sales: Via Niccolini, 28;Accessories: Via Niccolini, 30; Clothing: Via Niccolini,33 corner of via Fioravanti). Open Mon-Fri 9am-12.30am/2pm-7pm; Sat 9.30-12.30am/3pm-7pm.www.numerounomilano.it. Via Niccolini, 28. T: 02349871. M2 Moscova. Map D2Rosso Prezioso – Just a few steps from Via Brera,this small concept store is perfect for intellectualchicshopping featuring the best of Made-in-Italy.Under the creative directorship of Cristina Bacchetti,it offers original collections of high-fashion costumejewellery featuring an elegant, innovative design.Creative themes, materials and colours are updatedregularly in accordance with the latest trends.In addition to costume jewellery, it also stocks adelightful selection of fashion accessories andclothing.Open Mon 1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.rossoprezioso.com. Via San Fermo, 1. T: 02654841. M2 Moscova-M3 Turati. Map F3spaZio ROSSANA ORLANDI – Located in an oldbuilding in the Magenta district, the Space isdedicated to avant garde interior design, includingdesigner furniture, tableware and lamps. The nearbybar-restaurant “Pane e Acqua” is furnished withcontemporary design objects and vintage tables,signed by Paola Navone (open Mon-Sat 12.30am-3.30pm/8pm-10pm. T: 02 48198622). Open Mon-Fri10am-7pm. T: 02 4674471. www.rossanaorlandi.com. Via M. Bandello, 14/16. M1 Conciliazione, M2Sant’Ambrogio. Map C5Ferrari STORE MILANO – Dedicated to Ferraridevotees, this authorized sales point of the historicMaranello headquarters sells over three thousandtypes of Ferrari merchandise including clothing,leather goods, high-class accessories, toys andmodels. From a minimum of 4.5 euros for a logoedwriting pad up to 40 thousand for a Formula 1engine. A visit to this futuristic, five-storey, location,expressing the explosive soul of car racing, isdefinitely a worthwhile experience. Open Sun-Fri,10am-8pm; Sat 10am-9pm. http://store.ferrari.com.Piazza Liberty, 8. T: 02 76017385. M1-M3 Duomo.Map G5High tech – A large multi-space emporium sellingsofas, bookshelves, fragrances, notebooks, lamps,kitchenware but also ethnic furniture and fashionaccessories. Original, innovative home furnishings ataffordable prices. Open Mon 1.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.high-techmilano.com.Piazza XXV Aprile, 12. T: 02 6241101. M2 Moscova, M2Garibaldi. Map F2Milan (Milan A.C.) MEGASTORE – A “not-to-bemissed”address for A.C. Milan fans the world over:located in the historic Galleria, behind the Duomo,the shop boasts a display area of over 500 sq.m.Nespresso in the City of DesignWhen Nespresso first appeared in Italy, marketing experts wereskeptical as to whether this new way of making “espresso” would besuccessful. But it was. Right here in Milan, at the Salone del Mobile,“designer of the year” , Konstantin Grcic initially formed his relationshipwith the brand. Discover his collection in the four Milan-basedNespresso Boutiques! www.nespresso.com. Galleria San Babila 4/D,Via Bigli 1, La Rinascente, Coin.www.wheretraveler.com 31

ShoppingSide and below:sergio rossiBeautifully crafted, comfortable, eye-catchingfootwear designed for women and men (p. 44))larusmiani concept boutiQUeThe perfect place to built your wardrobewith exclusive pieces: Larusmiani takes luxuryretail to a new level. (p. 28 and 45)TAD CONCEPTSTORE – A small-scale luxurydepartment store and one of the hippest in thedistrict. It carries only the finest in high-designfurniture and fashion and includes a restaurant,offering revisited regional food, a beauty area butalso an entirely glass-fronted Lounge Gallery whichhosts art, music, design and fashion events. OpenTues-Sat 10.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 65506731.www.taditaly.com. Via Statuto, 12. M2 Moscova.Map F3Taddy’s Harley-Davidson – A young dynamicofficial Harley-Davidson and Buell dealership. Over15 years of passion and professionalism dedicated tothese fabulous twin bikes boasting over one centuryof history. Motorbikes, accessories, spare parts,assistance and clothing. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 9-12.30am/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-6pm. www.harley-davidson-milano.com. Via Savona,97. T: 02 48958359. M2 Porta Genova FS. Off Map •Borgogna store a destination store dedicatedexclusively to high-tech, practical apparel where youcan Indulge your every whim with timeless leatherjackets, bikers’ jackets and jeans, T-shirts, shirts,sweatshirts, underwear, gadgets and much morebesides. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.harley-davidson-milano.com. Via Borgogna, 5.T: 02.36.53.69.38. M1 San Babila. Map G5vespa STORE – This boutique in the heart of Milan isdedicated to the chicest two wheels in the world.The Vespa , meaning “wasp” in Italian, derivedits name from the vehicle’s body shape and thehigh-pitched noise of the two-stroke engine. Anicon, since 1946, of design and Italian style, it is soldthroughout the world. In addition to stocking thelegendary scooter manufactured by Piaggio, it alsosells accessories and gadgets: sweatshirts, tops,bags, watches, mugs and plaques. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.vespa.com. Viale V. Veneto, 12. T: 02-29513036. M1Porta Venezia. Map H3Zara HOME – The fans of minimalist, sophisticated,original design at affordable prices will have a fieldday at the new Zara Home store. On 7 October, thefamous Spanish clothing label finally opened a 600sq.m home store in the heart of Milan, borderingon the fashion quad. The latest trends in bedding(featuring an unrivalled range of solid colour items),bathroom, tableware and living room merchandise.Also stocks a vast selection of accessories rangingfrom magazine racks to candles. Open 7 days aweek. 10am-9pm. Piazza San Babila, 5. T: 02 76022740.M1 San Babila. Map G4CosmeticsDIEGO DALLA PALMA – Diego Dalla Palma, celebritymake-up artist of world fame, has his own studio inthe heart of Milan’s Brera district. His all-Italian style,sophisticated and classic but also contemporary,is played out on contrasts. Defined by the NewYork Times as “The Guru of make-up made inItaly”, his entire collection is futuristic, unique,sophisticated and natural looking. His superiormake-up products guarantee an excellent endresult with the whole being completed by a rangeof accessories. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. www.diegodallapalma.it. Via Madonnina, 15. T: 02 876818.M2 Lanza. Map F3giorgio ARMANI – Giorgio Armani’s prestigiousboutique can be found in the centre of Milan’sfashion district. This legend of “Made-in-Italy”elegance and style requires no introduction. Thesuperlative quality of his cosmetics and fragrancesfor men and women are guaranteed by the Armanibrand name. Expert consultants are available tooffer you advice about the store’s host of body,face and make-up products. Open Mon-Sun10am-7pm. www.armani-viamanzoni31.it.Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 723181.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4L’occitane EN PROVENCE – This cosmeticscompany, founded in France in 1976, has threestores in Milan, all of which are very central and easilyaccessible by the underground. Their welcomingshops offer a vast selection of natural products:soaps, face and body creams, perfumes andmaquillage. Their karité butter based creams areabsolutely fantastic. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.loccitane.com.Via Dante, 12. T: 02 809913. M1 Cordusio. Map E5madina – The ideal place to browse amidst lipsticksand eye-pencils. Brightly coloured and ultra-trendy,Madina offers everything that a woman could desire,from the most classic make-up to the quirkiest. Italso has a make-up school where you can learn thesecrets of the trade from expert make-up artists. Thelesson lasts one hour and is held every day, also inEnglish, with a choice of times from between 11amto 5pm. Three locations the city (via Meravigli, corsoVenezia, via Tivoli). www.madina.it. Via Meraviglicorner of corso Magenta. T: 02 86915438. M1Cordusio. Map E5sephora – The fabulous Sephora beauty store,with branches throughout the world, will not gounnoticed. Free access to all products and hostessesavailable for expert advice. A vast selection ofproducts and samples galore. You can also have yournails and eyebrows done (booking required). OpenMon-Sun 9.30am-10pm. www.sephora.it. CorsoVittorio Emanuele II, 24/28. T: 02 76280495. M1 SanBabila. Map G5ElectronicsFnac – A multi-media megastore located in thecentre of town. It stocks the latest in CDs, DVDs,videogames, cell phones, computers, TVs, Hi-Fi,photographic equipment and camcorders. It alsosells books (foreign language sections available) and32 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Shoppinghas a ticket office. Corner Internet cafè located onthe second floor. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm; Sun10am-8pm. www.fnac.it. Via Torino 45. T: 02 869541.M1-M3 Duomo. Map E6Media World – Megastore belonging to the mostimportant consumer electronics chain in Italy. Itcarries a wide choice of products inc TVs, small andlarge electrical appliances, Hi-Fi systems, camerasand camcorders, GPS and computers but alsobooks, CDs, DVDs and videogames. Open Mon-Fri9.30am-9pm/Sat 9am-9pm. www.mediaworld.it.Viale C. Troya, 18. T: 02 42208111. Map A7mondadori MUlticenter – An innovativetype of megastore offering a vast range ofitems but also consultancy and assistance. TheMondadori Multicenter embodies the entireuniverse of media: DVDs, CDs, internationalnewspapers and magazines, PCs, telephones,electronics, computers, digital cameras andgames, gift ideas and books but also relaxationareas, a café and Internet points. • MulticenterdUomo extends over 5 floors and has an eventsarea, a children’s play area and an entire floorhosting an international art bookshop. www.negozimondadori.it. Open Mon-Sun 7am-11pm(ground floor); Mon-Sun 9am-11pm. PiazzaDuomo, 1. T: 02 454411. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 •Multicenter Marghera Open Mon noon tomidnight; Tues-Sun 10am-midnight. Via Marghera,28. T: 02 480471. M1 De Angeli. Map A4Photo-Discount Milano – Established in 1967,though originally specialized in imaging, Photo-Discount Milano is now a real multi-media storedealing in computers, astronomy, audio/videosystems, TVs, camcorders and photo processing.Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-13pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.photo-discount.org. Piazza DeAngeli, 3. T: 02 48006300. M1 De Angeli. Map A4Vertu – A highly exclusive boutique at which youcan purchase the entire range of products createdby the icon-maker of luxury mobile systems,from its up-market cell phones (limited editionpieces also available) to its dedicated accessories.Technical assistance also available. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.vertu.com. Via Montenapoleone,29. T: 02 7773171. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4EyewearCRISAFUlli EYewear – The ideal place for thosein search of the latest innovations in eyewear butalso artistic and jewelled frames for collectors.Limited editions also available. (SUN, anotherCrisafulli branch, specializing in sunglasses, canbe found in the same area in Galleria Pattari, 2.T:02 86454911). Open Mon 2.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Sat9am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.15pm. www.otticacrisafulli.itGalleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76023682. M1 San Babila.map G5ottica ARTIOLI – A reference point for eyewearin Milan for over 50 years. An inspired selectionof designer glasses and sunglasses and contactlenses. It also stocks binoculars, compasses,barometers and GPS navigation systems. OpenMon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.otticaartioli.it. Piazza XXV Aprile, 12. T: 02 29002952.M2 Moscova. MAP F2OCCHIALI PRIVATI – For those who wish to enhancetheir image and make it unique, without hidingbehind “the usual glasses”, this is the place togo. Express your personality with the utmost inoriginality. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.occhialiprivati.it. Via G. Washington, 11. T: 02 2846368. M1 Wagner.map B5salmoiraghi & VIGANÒ – One of the best-knownopticians in Italy, with 14 stores scattered throughoutthe city, it offers a vast range of glasses, sunglassesand contact lenses. Limited editions and exclusivepreviews of the best international brands alsoavailable. A new pair of glasses in just 60 minutes pluspersonalized aesthetic advice. Open Mon-Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-8pm. www.salmoiraghievigano.it.Piazza San Babila corner of corso G. Matteotti. T: 0276000100. M1 San Babila. MAP G4FloristsAU NOM DE LA ROSE – A tiny shop, open 7 days aweek, which, each morning, receives thousands ofrose buds from all over the world. Elegant bouquets,bunches of all sizes, sophisticated compositions puttogether by the creativity of expert hands. It alsooffers a number of products made from flowerssuch as cosmetics, perfumes, herbal teas, jams,sweets, chocolates and soaps. The only boutiquein Milan offering rose-based gourmandises. OpenMon-Sun 9am-8.30pm. www.aunomdelarose.com.Piazza Wagner, 1. T: 02 48009254. M1 Wagner.map B4clinica DEL Bonsai – An institution in Milan for thesale and care of bonsai trees. Special accessoriesand equipment but also fresh flowers and a varietyof plants from all over the world. At Christmas, itsells floral compositions, centrepieces and unusualChristmas trees. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7.30pm.www.fellafiorimilano.com. Via Carducci, 12. Tel: 0286453072. M1 Cadorna FN. MAP D5le LUire – “Le Luire” or rather “Sparkles”. A passionfor flowers, professionalism and a flair for makingunforgettable floral creations. For those insearch of a florist who understands how to makeimportant occasions even more special withbeautiful bouquets, bunches of flowers and floralcompositions put together with taste and originality.Open Mon 2pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun9am-1pm. www.leluire.sitiwebs.com.Via Piero della Francesca, 40. T: 02 347010.Map C1monceaU FleUrs – A name of internationalrenown, Monceau Fleurs also has a shop in Milanand will sell you flowers until late in the evening, atany time of the year. It carries over 300 varieties ofplants and flowers, exclusive collections of bouquetsand trendy floral compositions. Open 7 days, 9am to9pm. For direct shipping, ask your hotel concierge.www.monceaufleurs.it.Viale Bianca Maria corner viaRaiberti. T: 02 76021753. Map H4paolo LATTUada – A real flower boutique and oneof the most exclusive in the city. The shop, owned bythe artist-gardener, Paolo Lattuada offers customersan emotional experience, drawing inspiration fromessential elements such as the air, stones and water:a creative laboratory for highly original, sophisticatedcreations. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 9.30am-Italian DesignCredit for the consummate success achievedby “Made-in-Italy” worldwide goes to allthose Italian companies which, during theTwentieth Century, revolutionized each andevery sector of industrial design, creatingand signing pieces that are recognizedthroughout the world for their quality,creativity and attention to detail.In fact, it is not mere chance that Milan,considered one of the design capitals of theworld, is home to all of the most importantnames in the field of industrial and interiordesign: Cassina, associated since thevery beginning with masters of the calibreof Gio’ Ponti and Le Corbusier; FontanaArte, a pioneer in the innovative use ofglass in lighting technology; Azucena,which has produced the furniture of severalof Italy’s most famous architects; Arflex,whose foam rubber revolutionized thepadded furniture industry: O Luce, withits catalogue of timeless lighting systems;Kartell, which made plastic an art form;Tecno, with its modular furniture; È dePadova, which introduced Milan to thesupremely light elegance of Nordic design;Simon, which has always considered designas a cultural spearhead; Poltronova,with its commitment to design as artisticexperimentation, renowned worldwidefor its armchair inspired by Joe Di Maggio’sglove; Danese, with its revolutionary deskobjects; Artemide which, way back in1967, received a design Oscar for its Eclisselamp; Zanotta, the author of irreverent,playful shapes at the beginning of the‘70’s. Gufram, visionary manufacturers ofsculpture-furniture; Flos, which endowedlight with new expressive forms; Flou,inventor of the “textile” bed’; Alessi which,thanks to the best signatures on theInternational scene, wrote the history ofdesign by giving kitchen utensils a totallynew and modern look; Driade, whichnot only discovered Philippe Starck butalso several other famous contemporaryarchitects and designers; Luceplan,which transformed lamps into supremelybeautiful high-precision toys; Cappellini,with its innovative ideas for interior design;Moroso, which, since the fifties, hastirelessly innovated its superior qualityupholstered furniture and interior accessoriesand Edra, renowned, for the past twentyyears, as an icon of contemporary furniture.1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.paololattuada.it. Via Molinodelle Armi, 19. T: 02 58305078. M3 Crocetta. MAP F6vivaio SORELLE RIVA – Situated just a short distancefrom the “Colonne di San Lorenzo”, a magicalplace, patronized by the Milanese for generations.Plants and flowers of rare beauty, exhibitions, booklaunches, dinners, performances, musical evenings/aperitivi but also entertainment for children. Inaddition to an outdoor garden, in winter it also offersa warm, romantic winter garden. Open Mon-Sat9.30am-12.30am/2.30pm-6.30pm. www.vivaioriva.it.Via Arena, 7. T: 02 58101141. M2 Sant’Agostino. MAP E6www.wheretraveler.com 33

ShoppingFood & WineEnoteca Cotti – A “not-to-be-missed” address forwine lovers. Opened in 1906, Cotti is one of the beststocked wine bars in the city. Enter an old-worldatmosphere, boasting impressively stocked shelvesand an extraordinary selection of wines and spirits. Inaddition to wine and champagne, it also offers a widearray of grappa, whisky, cognac, rum and liqueursfrom all over the world. You can also purchasegastronomic specialities as well as typical Italian cakesand pastries. Closed on Sun and Mon. Via Solferino,42. T: 02 6572995 or 29001096. M2 Moscova. Map F2Gastronomia Rossi & Grassi – One of themost famous delicatessens in the city thanks to itsextraordinary selection of goodies from all over Italy,especially cheese, cold cuts, wine and olive oil. Itshouse specialities and wonderful ready-made dishesare also worth a try. Closed on Sun. www.rossiegrassi.it. Via Ponte Vetero, 4. T: 02 86462247. M1 Cairoli.Map F4Peck – A paradise for food lovers. At this high-classdelicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanesetaste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, fromcured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, fromcheeses to olive oil. Spread out over three floors, Peckis also a great place for an unforgettable stopover,thanks to its large sampling areas. The search forquality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through acareful selection of products from all over the world.A totally worthwhile gastronomic experience. Closedon Sun. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161.M1-M3 Duomo; M1 Cordusio. Map F5Sarzi Amadè – An address where wine lovers canpurchase a selection of rare bottles. Established in1966, since 1982 it has imported and distributed asought-after selection of specialties originating fromBorgogne, Alsace, Bordeaux (approx. 200 Chateaux),the Loire valley and Provence. The establishment’sportfolio also includes aquavitae and a number ofspirits, including cognac, Martinique rum and Scottishwhisky (about 100 distilleries), rum aged in Britain byexpert distillers and the rare “Independent Bottle”whisky. Closed on Sun. www.sarziamade.it. Via N.Oxilia, 25/27. T: 02 26113396. M1 Pasteur. oFF MapSpazio Scarpitti – This is the most trendy, young andbohemian wine bar in Milan. Run by Fabio Scarpitti,renowned sommelier and talent scout, and his wife,Paola. It offers a large selection of labels featuring twoimportant characteristics: all the wines are personallysourced and selected by Fabio from unknownproducers. All the wines on offer are excellent valuefor money. In addition to wine, it also stocks some rarepearls like Amaro Toccasana Negro and beer madeby the monks of Cascinazza di Buccinasco. Closed onSun. www.scarpittidistribuzione.it. Via Petrocchi, 21.T: 02 28510470. M1 Turro. oFF MapHome Decor & FabricsAlessi – The art of living according to a company thathas always been defined as an “art factory”. It offerstableware, small electrical appliances, cooking utensilsand bathroom accessories signed by some of themost renowned names in international design. Alessiis famed for its surprising, innovative and playfulinventions, the hallmark feature of the brand. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.alessi.com.Corso G. Matteotti, 9. Tel: 02 795726. M1 San Babila.Map G4Arform – Opened it doors in 1955 and is still awonderful oasis of Scandinavian design in the heartof Milan. It mainly offers objects for the home butalso a range of personal items. You will find cool, sleektable linens in natural colours, glorious cotton items,stylish tableware from Finland and the latest kitchenimplements from Denmark. It also stocks strikinglybeautiful glassware and wooden items enhanced bythe skilful use of colour. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.arform.it. Via Moscova, 22.Tel: 02 6554691. M2 Moscova. Map F3artemide – Located inside the historic Palazzo PoldiPezzoli, the shop is given over entirely to lighting.Lamps and light systems boasting cutting-edgetechnology plus a design consultancy service forarchitects, lighting designers and members of theindustry. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.artemide.com. Via A. Manzoni, 12.T: 02 778712201. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4B&B Italia – Extending over a surface area of onethousand, seven hundred square metres, this elegant,multi-level store, situated right in the very heart ofMilan, also offers an outdoor area. It stocks a widerange of furnishing items created by Antonio Citterio,Naoto Fukasawa, Patricia Urquiola and Vincent vanDuysen. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm.www.bebitalia.it. Via Durini, 14. T: 02 7644411. M1 SanBabila. Map G5cassina – An elegant, sophisticated space, located inthe highly central Via Durini, for a brand that boastsover 80 years in the industry. There is something toexcite the eyes of all design lovers (including thelegendary chaise longue by Le Corbusier). Cassinacontinues to produce sophisticated, elegant furniturecreated by some of the best designers in the world.Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cassina.com. Via Durini, 16. T: 02 76020745. M1 SanBabila. Map G5christoFle – Just a short distance from thehighly central Piazza San Babila, Christofle evokesinnovative modern design and the elegance of timesgone by with its beautifully crafted silver cutlery,tableware, crystal jewellery and gift objects. Overtime it has become increasingly oriented towardscontemporary design. Among the latest innovations,cutlery and candelabra resulting from a collaborationagreement with the young, visionary French designerOra Ito. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.christofle.com. Corso Venezia, 6. T: 02 781948.M1 San Babila. Map G4Da Driade – A cult store for the globally designaddictedoffering furniture, objets d’art andaccessories designed by some of the biggest nameson the international design scene. The merchandiseis showcased with a unique style, inspired by art andthe cinema. An absolute “must” even if only to admirethe contrast between items by Fukasawa, Sipek,Starck and the extraordinary 18th century frescoes ofthe palazzo in which the shop is located. Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.driade.com. ViaA. Manzoni, 30. T: 02 76023098. M3 Montenapoleone.Map F4È De Padova – A temple of high-class Italian design,each floor of its flagship store is dedicated to a specificsector – bedroom furniture, living-room furniture,accessories, office furniture – all featuring simple,clean-cut, classic contemporary lines. Prime examplesare the items designed by Vico Magistretti. In additionto its own brand, it also offers a small selection oflimited edition accessories chosen from among thebest brands. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.depadova.it. Corso Venezia, 14.T: 02 777201. M1 San Babila, M1 Palestro. Map H3edra – One of Milan’s best kept secrets, hidden awayin the heart of the old Brera district, Edra offersamazing, futuristic furniture. Set against a surrealbackground, we find the huge sofas by FrancescoBinfarè, the flower armchairs by Masanori Umeda andthe sleek Paesaggi Italiani bookshelves by MassimoMorozzi, art director of the company. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7pm. www.edra.com. ViaCiovassino, 3. T: 02 86995122. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza, M3Montenapoleone. Map F4Flos – A hallmark symbol of design applied tolighting. Since the Sixties, it has offered elegant lightcollections resulting from collaboration with the bestinternational designers inc Achille Castiglioni, AntonioCitterio, Jasper Morrison and Philippe Starck. OpenMon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30-1pm/3pm-7.30pm.www.flos.com. Corso Monforte, 9. T: 02 76003639.M1 San Babila. Map H4Fontana ARTE – Just a steps from the Duomo,customers will find themselves immersed in animmaculate, almost museum-like space. Theprotagonists of this Italian luxury lighting brandare its lamps, crafted mainly from steel and glass,based on an idea of discreet, functional elegancethat has withstood not only the test of time but alsopassing fads to remain a leader in advanced glassmanufacturing and lighting design since 1932. OpenMon 2pm-7pm; Tus-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm.www.fontanaarte.it. Via Santa Margherita, 6.T: 02 86464551. M1 Cordusio. Map F5Kartell – This is the flagship store of a brand thathas become a household name worldwide. Itoffers furniture, accessories and lamps, designedby designers of international renown, interpretedin a wide array of different colours. One of its latestinnovations includes shoes made entirely in plastic.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.kartell.it. Via F.Turati, corner of via C. Porta, 1.T: 02 6597916. M3 Turati. Map G3poltrona FraU – Located in the heart of Milan, sincethe very beginning Poltrona Frau has been a symbolof Italian artisan elegance. In addition to its cult34 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

MILAN STYLELINGOTTINOEstablished in 1990, it offers handcrafted jewellery based on itsown designs. Precious accessories and unique items ranging frommini-earrings to diamond chokers, created with the utmost care.Its growing customer portfolio celebrates its success in thecreation of sophisticated, minimalist masterpieces. Situatedbetween via Torino and corso Magenta, located inside a sixteenthcentury palazzo, it is open from Monday to Sunday with thefollowing schedule: Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. M1 Cordusio. Map E5www.lingottino.itVia Santa Marta, 10 – T: 02 72022203More info: www.wheremilan.comPETTINAROLIFounded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, it isconsidered one of the oldest venues in the city. The shop hasbeen a reference point for style and elegance in writing paper,business cards and printed documents, desk items and photoalbums in beautifully handcrafted leather according to timehonouredItalian tradition. The basement floor houses a vastassortment of prints and antique maps. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4www.fpettinaroli.it • www.pettinarolimapsandprints.comPiazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino)T: 02 86464642-1875More info: www.wheremilan.comSTIVALERIA SAVOIAFounded in the 1920s as the official bootmaker to the Savoy regiment,it is the shoemaker-of-choice for all those who are passionate abouthunting, riding or polo. Today, it makes bespoke all-purpose bootsand shoes handcrafted by artisans. The establishment carries bothready-to-wear and made-to-measure collections. In addition tofootwear, it also sells dresses, shirts and small leather goods, alsocustomized to suit individual requirements. Open Mon 3-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm; 2.30-7pm. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4www.stivaleriasavoia.itVia Petrarca, 7 corner of via V. Monti – T: 02 463424More info: www.wheremilan.comBORSALINOHistoric Italian company synonymous with “hats” the world over.Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with anartisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizesfabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon and Sun 10am-2pm;3pm-7pm. Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it. Galleria VittorioEmanuele II. T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5www.borsalino.itGalleria Vittorio Emanuele II – T: 02 89015436More info: www.wheremilan.comADVERTISEMENTwww.wheretraveler.com 35

Shoppingleather armchairs, it also stocks a rich collection ofsofas, beds, tables, desks and accessories designedfor elegant, sophisticated interiors, where design issynonymous with wellbeing. Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.poltronafrau.com.Via Durini, 1: T: 02 6570626. M1 San Babila. Map G5Spazio Pontaccio – Overlooking Via Pontaccio,it stocks an interesting mix of international andItalian classic and modern design furniture.French-style decò drawers stand alongside warm,contemporary tables, sofas and bookshelves. Aninspirational selection of accessories. For thosewho enjoy fusion with style. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.spaziopontaccio.it. ViaPontaccio, 18. T: 02 8057025. M2 Lanza. Map F3swarovsKI – Overlooking the historic GalleriaVittorio Emanuele, an iconic symbol of luxuryshopping, it offers the best of precision-cut crystalglass and related luxury objects inc jewellery,key rings, watches, objets d’art and, naturally, thefamous animal figurine collectables. Open Mon-Fri10am-7.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.swarovski.com. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 6. T: 02 72094386.M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Venini – The art of glass-making. The newcollections and the historic pieces of thistime-honoured brand, founded in 1921 andconsidered one of the classics of Made-in-Italy,are showcased against a neutral, minimalistbackground. Vases, centrepieces and sculpturescrafted by internationally renowned artists anddesigners and master glassmakers specialized inthe most sophisticated Murano glass workingtechniques. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.venini.com. ViaMontenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76000539. M1 San Babila.Map G4villeroY Boch – The hallmark features of Villeroy& Boch are quality, image, elegance, harmony anddesign. The company boasts years of experiencein the field of product design and interior design.Courteous service and an array of innovativeproducts, Villeroy Boch epitomizes elegance andsophistication. Over the years, it has developedfrom a manufacturer of high-quality ceramicproducts to an internationally renowned lifestylebrand. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.villeroyboch.com.Via Montebello, 35. T: 02 65584928. M3Turati. Map F3Jewellery & WatchesADAMAS GIOIELLI – Old artisan workshop, a creatorof made-to-order objects in gold, embellishedwith precious stones. Unique, creative fashionpieces, for a discerning clientele. Open Tues-Fri9.30am-7pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30am/3pm-7pm.www.adamasgioielli.it. Via Speronari, 7.T: 02 8692784. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5aldo CITTERIO – An expert in silver and antiquejewellery. In keeping with the tradition of the “oldartisan workshops in via Orefici” it carries originaljewellery and unusual accessories, several of whichare created directly in its atelier. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm. www.aldocitterio.it. ViaOrefici, 18. T: 02 809225. M1 Cordusio. Map F5angela CAPUti GIUggiÙ – The brand isrenowned throughout the world. Sophisticated,original creations made from unusual materialssuch as plastic and resin, combined to createunique objects both in terms of colour and shape.Her creations have been used as accessoriesby famous television and film producers. Theaccessory as a focal point, capable of creatinga look or dressing up any type of garment. Amagical blend of contemporary and classicaltaste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm; 2.30pm-7.30pm.www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. T: 0286461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4argenterie Boggiali – This century-old trademarkproposes classic lines in silver and luxurious crystalcollections but also modern design objects for ayounger clientele. Open Tues-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.boggiali.it. Via Torino, 34. T: 02 801491.M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5BREIL – A single-brand store offering products madeby the Italian leader in watchmaking and high-classstainless steel jewellery. Italian design and Swissproduction. Among its most popular items, worthparticular note is its Milano collection, inspired bythe city’s metropolitan dynamism and, in somemodels, embellished with small diamonds. OpenTues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.breil.com.Corso Vercelli, 31. T: 02 4812599. M1 Pagano. Map b4BUCCELLATI – Heir to a tradition that datesback to the 18th century and a favourite withthe royal families of Europe, Buccellati offersstunning designs featuring a “tulle, lace orhoneycomb” effect. Also known for its silver andextraordinary animal collections. Open Mon-Sat10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.buccellati.com.Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76002153. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4BUlgari – Among the most noteworthy names inthe world together with Cartier and Tiffany, sincethe very beginning, Bulgari has been a referencepoint for luxury jewellery. It also carries watches,fragrances, accessories and small table items. Itsmost famous collection is the “Bzero1”, originallycrafted in gold and subsequently embellished withdiamonds and precious stones. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone,2. T: 02 777001. M1 San Babila. Map G4cartier – In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is alsofamous as a luxury maker of watches, second onlyin the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design andtechnology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellishedwith details in gold, platinum and diamonds. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Fri-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier.it.Via Montenapoleone corner of via del Gesù.T: 02 3030421. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4colomBO GIOIELLIERI – A trend-setter in finejewellery for the past fifty years. It carries the gold“i gioiellini” collection dedicated to a youngerclientele together with a vast assortment ofcostume jewellery from the Reminescencecollection. It also stocks Toy Watch and Iketimepieces. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm.ProediComunicazione – Photo by andrea del cottoPinko • Laltramoda • Flavio CastellaniManila Grace • French Connection • SevenCusto • Vero Moda • Object • MetVia V. Monti, 47 ~ Via Belfiore, 7 ~ Via Lorenteggio, 55Corso Genova, 1536 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

19 FieraV. SenofonteSiroAfrica12 Milano 13P.za G.22 23 Amendola 211PalazzoP.le GiulioP.ledelloP.le3 P.za VI Cesare V.le BelisarioArduinoSport Amendola Febbraio10Italia 4 Fiera Sacra Shopping9Under ConstructionFamigliaLP.za(2007 – 2014) 5P.zaSempioneGiovanniP.za dei8 7 6XXIIIVolontari ArcoLuxury shoppingSanL.go V. SenofonteCorpus dellaSiroAfricaCasa P.zaDomini PaceVercelli-Belfiore-Marghera 3P.za G.Verdi BuonarrotiAmendolaBuonarrotiP.le GiulioTorreCesare V.le BelisarioBrancaAmendola 4S. PietroThis area, beginningin SalaFieraPaganoSacraL.go Vat Porta Magenta, isFamigliaP.za AlpiniTrieWagnerPala P.zConciliaone of Milan’s chicest,P.zaWagnerdellDe AngeliPORTAConciliazionemost upmarketCasa P.za De AngeliP.zaMAGENTABuonarrotiTeatro PiemonteP.le F.Verdidistricts: a residentialNazionaleL.go BaraccaVibram BuonarrotiSettimoP.zaSeveroMuarea, still inhabited 4● S. Pietroin SalaTommaseoPagano P.za Siciliaby Milan’s upperMalpeP.zaExpcrust, it epitomizes5 WagnerP.za P.za●Conciliazione GiovineP.zaWagnerDe AngeliConciliazione Italia Cenacolothe traditional soulMax MaraPORTAVincianoDe AngeliP.zaMAGENTAS. Mariaof the city and isTeatro PiemonteP.le F. P.zadella Grazie CarceNazionaleL.go Baraccad’Adistinguished by itsSettimo● PoPalazzo S. Vitt●DenzelP.za SeveroMuseo Teatrale P.ledelleair of sophistication,Irnerio MujiAquileiaalla Scala StellineP.za Siciliaelegance and stunningP.zaVesuvioresidential architecture.5TripoliLEGENDS. Vittoreal CorpoThe area is renowned6 InformationMarketS. Ambrofor several of the bestP.zaCarceri Museo NazionalePoPaS. Vittoredella Scienzashopping addressesP.zaP.lee della TecnicaSoPlace of InterestChurchIrnerioAquileiaP.zain town.BazziViewpointMuseum P.zaVesuvioTrain StationP.zaTripoliRosarioLEGEND TheatreP.zaS. Agostino S. Agostino6Metro StationCONCHETTAInformationMarketShopping7ParcoCycle PathPChurchSolariPlace of InterestP.zaPost Office Bazzi Swimming Pool TeatroViewpointLiberoP.leMuseumCantore MPolicedell'AntTrain StationP.za ParkingRosarioTheatreAMetro StationCONCHETTA BCCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to P.ta check the accuracy of the inShoppingStazione Genova FS7Cycle PathPta. GénovaVic.S. Maria LavandaiPost Officeal NaviglioSwimming PoolMercatonePoliceParkingdell'AntiquariatoNAVibramMujiA BMax MaraC DThis unique Vibram® flagship store offersthe entire collection of the original“Vibram fivefingers®”, the barefoot shoeof the Italian company, market leader inrubber soles production since 1937.M1 Wagner, M1 Buonarroti (p. 45)V. GuglielmV. S. Del PiomboV. Monte BiancoV. VolpedoV. Mosè BianchiV. DomenichinoV. G. PreviatiV. F. FaruffiniV. F. AlbaniV.le Ergisto BezziV. Carlo RavizzaV. A. MarioV. Giuseppe FruaV. dei GracchiV.le EginardoV. BerengarioV. Correggioel LavoroV. A. SpinolaV.le EzioV. Monte RosaV. V. ColonnaV. MargheraV. Michelangelo BuonarrotiV.le d.ComeméricoV.le dell’IndustriaV. GiottoV.le S. BoezV.le CassiodoroV. Pier CapponiV. Giuseppe DezzaV. Francesco FerruV. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio TizianoV. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio TizianoV. L. SaccoV. SardegnaV. G. del MainoV. P. CavalcabòV. RoncagliaV. Giorgio WashingtonV. VolpedoV. DomenichinoV. G. PreviatiV. F. FaruffiniV.MonferratoV. ElbaV. S. CabotoV. G. BoniV. Mosè BianchiV. Carlo RavizzaV. A. MarioV. Giuseppe FruaV.le Ergisto BezziV. dei GracchiV. D. CimarosaV. San EusebioV. della RobbiaV. PolibioV. AlessandriV. PanziniV. RossettiCorso VercelliV. Paolo GiovioV. VergaV. StromboliV. CaliforniaV. TortonaV. Ippolito NievoV. Leone XIIIV. G. PallavicinoV. Egadi V. LipariV. Moisé LoriaV. StendhalCavalleriaSavoiaV. da GiussanoV. RasoriV. B. Panizzao SempioneV. A. CanovaCorso MagentaV. San VittoreV. F. Melzi D’ErilV. Vincenzo Monti V. Vincenzo MontiV. ReggimentoV. Mario PaganoV. S. Michele del CarsoV. Vincenzo FoppaV. ValparaisoV. BergognoneV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MascheroniV.le di Porta VercellinaV. MontevideoV. Andrea SolariV. SavonaV. Andrea Massena V. MoV. TassoV. M. BandelloV.le G. MiltonV. Gian Battista VicoV.le Papiniano V.le PapinianoV. CeranoV. VogheraV. N. MachiavelliV. TortonaV. G. RevereV. PetrarcaV. P. TamburiniV. G. RovaniV. degli OlivetaniV.le Coni ZugnaV. VentimigliaV. TortonaV. XX SettembreV. ValenzaV. A. SaffiV. B. ZenaleV. G. LeopardiV. OlonaV. AribertoCorso C.ColomboV. VigevanoV. LuigV. A. BertaV. E. AlemagnaV. de TogniV. BocV. GiosuV. E. DeV. CarroccioV. AusoniV. S. VinV. Cesare SestoV. S. CaV.V.le GoriziaRipa di Porta TNaviglio GrandeStrada Alzaia Naviglio GrandeCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept resDistinguished by its minimalism designand eco-friendly approach, this store is apart of the famous chain of “made-in-Japan” furniture, clothing and high-techitems. M1 Conciliazione. (p.31)V. BeV. CorreggioV. L. SaccoV. MargheraV. BelfioreV. SardegnaV.le EziopinolaV. Monte RosaV. V. ColonnaV. G. del MainoV. P. CavalcabòV. RoncagliaV. Michelangelo BuonarrotiV. Giorgio WashingtonV. ElbaV. S. CabotoV. G. BoniV. GiottoV.MonferratoV.leV. della RobbiaV. Pier CapponiV. D. CimarosaV. San EusebioV. PolibioV. AlessandriV. PanziniV. IV. RossettiCorso VercelliV. Paolo GiovioV. VergaV. Giuseppe DezzaV. Egadi V. LipariV. StromboliV. Moisé LoriaV. StendhalV. CaliforniaV. TortonaV. Leone XIIIV. da GiussanoV. G. PallavicinoV. RasoriV. B. PanizzaAn Italian fashion house known for itsready-to-wear clothing. Max Mara hasalways offered clean-cut, beautifullytailored lines. Although it has numeroussales points scattered throughout Milan,Italy and the rest of the world, it is not achain store but rather a real designer label.M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. (p. 28)CavalleriaSavoiaV. Vincenzo MontiV. ReggimentoV. Mario PaganoV. S. Michele del CarsoV. Vincenzo FoppaV. ValparaisoV. BergognoneV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MV.le di Porta VercellinaV. MontevideoV.V. M.CV.le PapV. Andrea SolariV. SavonaV.V.V. VogheraV. TortoDwww.vibramfivefingers.comVia Raffaello Sanzio, 6T: 02 36528461www.muji.euCorso Vercelli, 11T: 02 48517578www.maxmara.comVia Cuneo, 3T: 02 48004728www.wheretraveler.com 37

Shoppingeasy to fold:just follow the sequenceof stepsin the pictures and...have a nice trip!Insert the pants insidethe LordIronInsert the LordIroninside the jacketFold carefullyReady to go!www.colombogioielli.it. Corso Vercelli, 29.T: 02 48004408. M1 Conciliazione. Map B4daBBENE – The tradition of old Milanese workshopscombined with the innovation required bymore discerning customers. Its well-equippedlaboratory makes hand-crafted objects to orderand engravings to satisfy all types of customizationrequirements. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm.www.argenteriadabbene.com. Largo Treves, 2.T: 02 6554406. M2 Moscova. Map F3damiani – Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani hasa long goldsmithing tradition which it has alwaysinterpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity,a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporaryspirit, are the distinctive values of the Damianijewelry reproposed in a flagship store designedby Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displaysall the Maison’s jewelry collections, which areadmired throughout the world for their jewelry tobe realized by master goldsmiths in full accordancewith the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10.T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4dodo – The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in1995, by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for giftor collection purposes. It sells an array of animalcharm pieces, each of which has a particularmeaning. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dodo.it. Corso Venezia, 8. T: 02 76317581.M1 San Babila. Map G4gioielleria CUsi RINALDO – Has beenfashioning high-class jewellery for over onecentury. This brand is renowned not only for itschoice of stunning gems and pearls but alsofor the sophistication of the jewellery craftedin its workshop. Special design pieces includepearls, platinum and jewellery inspired by nature.Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/4pm-7pm. www.cusidiamantimilano.com. Corso Monforte, 23. T: 02795832. M1 San Babila. Map H4Gioielleria Faraone - For milanese people viaMontenapoleone is synonimous with luxury, andFaraone Jewerly used to be for the rich milanesefamilies one of the few reserved keepers of familysecrets. Marriages, births, events in the life ofthe affluent customers were often celebratedwith a visit to this paradise of shining objects. Asconfidents the owners respected their customersprivacy. Today you can find the same reservedambience and spectacular jewels. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm.Via Montenapoleone,19. T: 02 76319153. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4gioielleria PEDERZani – Established in 1947by Gino Pederzani, this historic jeweller’s store,located in via Montenapoleone, becamefamous in the ‘70’s for its heart-shaped andFancy Yellow diamonds, “the” yellow diamondspar excellence. Tradition, luxury and perfectionhanded down generation to generation. Rings,necklaces, bracelets, brooches and, last but notleast, the Glamour style collection by VanessaPederzani. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gioielleriapederzani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 0276001728. M1 San Babila. Map G4gioielleria VILLA – Timeless, precious jewellerylike the inimitable, patented “Tessuto Villa”, a meshof golden stands so soft that they feels like velvetagainst your skin. Villa specializes in the creation ofcufflinks, revisited with a touch of irony. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.villa.it. ViaA. Manzoni, 23. T: 02 804279. M3 Montenapoleone.Map F4goBBI 1842 – From an old late 19th centuryworkshop to an elegant Milanese watchmaker’sestablishment. The upper floor houses a wellequippedlaboratory. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,15. T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. Map G5KIDULT – Showroom featuring highly originaljewellery (necklaces, bracelets and rings) created asunique pieces and customizable in shape, colourand materials. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.kidult.net. Via Pontaccio, 3. T: 02 72080271. M2Lanza. Map E3lingottino – Just a short distance from via Torinoand corso Magenta, Lingottino offers beautifulhandcrafted pieces. Unique items, ranging fromtiny earrings to diamond chokers. Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.lingottino.it. Via Santa Marta, 10. T: 02 72022203.M1 Cordusio. Map E5locman – Original, innovative, trendy watches,distinguished by high-quality artisan finishes. Areal atelier where high-tech and tradition meldto create an atmosphere of extreme elegance.Locman is currently one of the most importantnames in Italian watchmaking. Open Tues-Sat10am-7pm. www.locman.it. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 0236512893. M3 Missori. Map F5maschio gioielli – A Milanese jewellery brand,established in 1988 by Dario Maschio, designer ofrings, earrings and bracelets that can be assembledand personalized with a choice of over 800 charmsand coloured semi-precious stones. All the linesare distinguished by a linear, clean-cut design.Creativity, elegance and innovation interpreted invarious tones of gold, from yellow to pink right upto red. You can either visit their shop in the centreof Milan or view their jewellery on-line. OpenMon-Sun 10,30am-7pm. www.maschiogioielli.it. ViaSan Pietro all’Orto, 17. T: 02 76004188. M1 San Babila.Map g5nove25 – Silver shop and workshop. Its creations areinspired by graphic elements and street cultureand are targeted at a younger clientele. Open Mon4pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/4pm-7.30pm.www.nove25.net. Via Ravizza, 3. T: 02 91534918.M1 Wagner. Map A4orologeria LUigi VERGA – Vast assortmentof prestigious Swiss watches: Rolex, PatekPhilippe, Vacheron&Constantin, AudemarsPiguet, Baume&Mercier and Jaeger-Le Coutre.The complete collection of “Luigi Verga Milano”watches, created in 2002 by the Verga brothers,is also available. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.luigiverga.it.Via G. Mazzini, 3 corner of via Dogana.T: 02 8056521. M1 Duomo.Map F5pasQUale BRUni – Old-world jewellery withintricate detailing but also classic lines featuringa contemporary design. Precious stones for all38 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

www.cherries.itJackets Always Perfect EverywhereNo traveler wants to arrive at destination with a suitcase full of wrinkled clothes. Onceinserted into position, LordIron, a specially designed lining, prevents the fabric of yourjackets and pants for pleating. It is a synthetic padded liner that you place under the vestand inside the sleeves to minimize pleats and wrinkles. LordIron is unisex and fits bothMen’s and Women’s jacket sizes.byARMERIA MESCHIERI • ITALY • Tel. +39 0332 288 390 • www.lordiron.it • PATENTED

Shoppingoccasions. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm.www.pasqualebruni.com. Via della Spiga, 6/a. T: 02784118. M1 San Babila. Map G4pisa OROLOGERIA – A watch lover’s paradisefor over 50 years. Prestigious timepieces withparticular attention to the latest innovations.Assistance centre and specialized workshop.Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteedto any part of the world. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm.www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri corner ofvia Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 762081.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4pomellato – Established in 1967 as an artisanlaboratory and currently a reference point inItalian gold-crafting. Pomellato trends for 2010include vibrant coloured stones set in red gold,irregular cuts and ultra-feminine designs. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pomellato.it. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17.T: 02 76006086. M1 San Babila. Map G5rocca 1794 – Master jewellers and watchmakerssince the 18th century, Rocca rates amongthe first importers of luxury Swiss watches. Aselection among the most prestigious brands:Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin Omega,Cartier, Panerai, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Salvini,Audemars Piguet, Tag Heuer, Bulgari, Ferrari,Vacheron Constantin, Gucci, Bliss, Eberhard,Jaeger-le Coultre, Chopard, Versace, Locman, Iwc,Vertu, Tudor. Rocca garantees outstanding levelsof competence and expert skillfull consultancy.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rocca1794.com.Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F5SPOTLIGHTROSATO – Created by the designer Simona Rosato,finalist at the “UK Jewellery Awards” in 2009,Rosato jewellery has an almost lyrical elegance.Bracelets, earrings, rings, necklaces and pendantsboast minute finishes and are decorated withcoloured enamels and glitter. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.rosato.it. Via Montenapoleone, 1.T: 02 76281670. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4rUBinia – Boasting years of experience in theworld of fashion and design, in 1986, Ilario Plazzicreated Rubinia, a line of totally unique, alluringjewellery. Each piece is distinguished by itssuperb handcrafting and the use of gold, silver,pearls, gems and semi-precious stones. A musthaveitem for discerning women. Two locations(Via Monti and Largo V Alpini). Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm. www.rubinia.com . Via V. Monti, 26.T: 02 43986440. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map d4saBBadini GIOIELLIERE – Tradition, expertiseand know-how are the underlying philosophyof the Sabbadini family, who have been in thejewellery trade for generations. The key featureof each piece is the original combination ofprecious or semi-precious stones resulting in aperfect harmony of forms, colours and nuances.Avant-garde jewellery, boasting the unmistakablehallmark features of the company, such as the“serti mysterieux” (featuring an invisible setting)which exudes lightness and mystery. Open Mon2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.sabbadini.com. Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 0276008228. M1 San Babila. Map G4scavia – The collections by Fulvio Maria Scaviaepitomize the elegance of Italian design.Rigorously hand-crafted pieces, the highestexpression of luxury and good taste. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.scavia.it. Via della Spiga, 9.T: 02 76021610. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4schreiBer – This Milanese establishment, locatedin the historic Galleria Manzoni, offers a wideselection of intricately detailed, high-classjewellery. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm.www.schreiber.it. Via A. Manzoni, 40.T: 02 76021570. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4swatch – The secrets of the Swatch success areappealing design at affordable prices. In additionto its classical plastic styles, it now also offers newversions ranging from Irony (in metal) to SKINChrono (the thinnest chronograph in the world)to Snowpass (with an integrated access functionthat can be used as a ski pass) and Beat (featuringan Internet Time function). It also stocks jewelleryand specials. Several stores located throughout thecity (Corso Buenos Aires, 64; Via Montenapoleone,12; Corso Vercelli, 3; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15;corners at Coin, Piazza Cinque Giornate; Corso diPorta Ticinese, 58). Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm.www.swatch.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15.T: 02 7600 0520. M1 San Babila. Map G5tiFFanY & CO – This world-renowned jeweller hasthree flagship stores in Milan, Florence and Rome.Located in the heart of Milan’s fashion district, itcarries an exclusive selection of classically simplejewellery and gift items in perfect keeping withthe tradition of its famous New York counterpartfounded in 1837. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat10am-7pm. www.tiffany.it. Via della Spiga, 19/a.T: 02 76022321. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4van CLEEF & ARPELS – Founded in 1896, thisfamous manufacturer of superb French jewelleryis known throughout the world for the settings ofits rare, ultra-precious gems still protected todayby the exclusive “Serti Mystérieux” patent. Itsflagship store, opened in 2009, is located in Milan’sQuadrilatero della moda. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.vancleef-arpels.com.Via P. Verri, 10. T: 02 7767951. M1 San Babila.Map G4vhernier – A leader in the production of sublimejewellery, this maison is a hot favourite withthe international jet set and specializes in theproduction of highly exclusive, unique pieces.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.vhernier.it. Via Santo Spirito, 14. T: 02 77331560.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4New Food MarketOffering good, healthy regional food while promoting consumerawareness: this is the philosophy of the new QB Mercato e Cucinaspace inaugurated in Milan on 13 November at Club GetFIT in viaCenisio 10. The space is open to the public, Mondays to Fridays, from7 am to 11 pm and on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 am to 7 pm.Extending over a surface area of 300 sq.m., it offers 1500 carefullyselected products. The market also offers tastings and a rich Sundaybrunch. www.qbmercatoecucina.it.winteX WATCHES BY CALDEX – Stunning andauthentically creative pieces featuring a rangeof exciting colours. These highly contemporarytimepieces represent the new soul of Italian luxury.Open Mon-Fri 9am-1.30pm/2.30pm-5.30pm.www.wintexwatches.com. Via Terraggio, 15. T: 028063101. M1 Cadorna FN. Map D5Leather & LuggageGILLI – Original, eye-catching bags and accessoriesin leather but also fashion jewellery, women andchildren’s clothing and lots more besides. Gilli’screative, trendy cube-shaped bags are the hallmarkfeature of this Milanese maison. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.gilli.com. Via della Spiga, 5. T: 0276028422. M1 San Babila. Map G440 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

ph. alessandrobencini.comVia Madonnina, 11 - 20121 Milano Tel. +39 02 86461080www.angelacaputi.comwww.wheretraveler.com 41

ShoppingMh way – A hot favourite with those who arepassionate about design. Bags, rucksacks andshoulder bags distinguished by a discreet logoand the skilful use of colour are showcasedagainst a rarefied, white background.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.mhway.it. Via Durini, 2. T: 02 76021787.M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. Map G5nava – Design applied to the world of stationery,suitcases and office equipment. Located ontwo floors, it offers accessories and furnishingcomplements – mostly in plastic or leather –featuring sleek lines and a sophisticated use ofcolour. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.navadesign.com. Via Durini, 23.M1 San Babila. Map G5PellUX – Situated just a short distance from theDuomo, Pellux is the epitome of luxury travelluggage. It sells briefcases, suitcases and bagsof all shapes and colours, made from the mostprecious skins. In addition to its handcraftedline, including exquisite shoes, it also offers aselection of other brands inc Piero Guidi,Alviero Martini and Samsonite. Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm.www.pellux.it. Via Agnello corner ofVia Ragazzi del ’99. T: 02 864104. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F5piQUadro – The company, founded in 1987thanks to the insight of Marco Palmieri, offersbusiness and travel luggage, trolleys andsuitcases, mainly in leather or in hi-techmaterials, a blend of traditional Italiancraftsmanship, design, innovation andtechnology. A quality brand for city or travelpurposes in addition to a strategic sales pointat Linate airport and another in via Dante,its flagship store is located in the Quadrilaterodella moda, Milan’s most famed shoppingdistrict. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.piquadro.com. Via della Spiga, 33.T: 02 76318786. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4Serapian – A story of passion, creative geniusand craftsmanship, an exclusive name inhigh-class leather goods. Serapian boasts twolocations: an atelier in via Jommelli, where, since1945, all of its collections are produced and aboutique in via della Spiga. The latter offersa special “made to order” service for those insearch of high-class objects whose every detailcan be customized. Its hallmark features areunique, exclusive made-to-measure productsexuding a sense of low-key luxury. Two locations(via Jommelli and Via della Spiga). Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.serapian.com. Via della Spiga,42. T: 02 280121. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4tUcano – Leading manufacturers of laptopcases and accessories. Tucano focuses particularattention on shapes, materials and colours tosatisfy computer buffs in the know. Spread outover 300 sq.m on two floors it has a displayarea where shoppers can view and actuallytouch the goods and an elegant basementfloor, featuring an elegant brick-domed ceiling,housing a multimedia space which hosts eventsand exhibitions. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm.www.tucanourbano.it. Piazza Cadorna, 4. T: 022520101. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4MusicBottega DISCANTICA – An historic shopfor classical music and a reference point formusicians, musicologists and the lovers ofmusical art. It offers a vast catalogue of all types ofclassical music. The Bottega Discantica producesits own CDs based on old and contemporaryItalian repertoires performed by musicians andItalian orchestras. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat9.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.discantica.it. ViaNirone, 5. T: 02 862966. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D5Buscemi Dischi – A destination store since 1965for the lovers of pop music, rock, jazz, blues,folk, ethnic and classic. In addition to CDs, DVDs,LPs and specialist publications, it is possible tofind rare titles and limited editions. Open Mon3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.www.buscemi.com. Corso Magenta, 31.T: 02 804103. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map E5Buscemi hi-fi – A destination store for over thirtyyears in the field of Hi-Fi, it carries a wide range ofhigh-end audio/video equipment and also offersan overseas delivery service. Targeted design forhome or public use, including craft as well as theproduction of music network systems and thesale of second-hand equipment. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-13.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.www.buscemihifi.it. Corso Magenta, 27.T: 02 8056410. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D5LIBreria LARGO MAHLER – A small boutique of“musical things” strategically situated in front ofthe Auditorium di Milano (during concert seasonit stays open till the end of the performances).It sells books and CDs, ranging from thebiographies of composers to essays and narrativeon music as well as a rich catalogue of the latestclassical, jazz and pop music. Open Mon 2.30-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm.www.largomahler.it. Via Conchetta, 2.T: 02 36536365. M2 Porta Genova FS. oFF MapMariposa Dischi – In addition to audio/videosystems, it also offers a vast catalogue of titles(also imported from abroad) featuring the mostdisparate musical genres, from rock to heavymetal, from rap to electronic music: it also sellstickets for festivals and concerts. Open Mon11.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm.www.mariposadischi.it. Corso Lodi, 1.T: 02 55184792. M3 Porta Romana. Map H7Ricordi Media Store – This is the largest, mostimportant store associated with the historic musicpublishers; this new venue (directly connectedto Libreria Feltrinelli-Duomo), with several floors,offers various listening points, a Box Officecounter for tickets, a rich audio, video and multimediacatalogue and areas dedicated to the saleof music accessories, musical instruments andsheet music. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun10am-8pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Via U. Foscolo, 3(Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II).T: 02 86460272. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Stradivarius – Historic record store from whichthe internationally-renowned record labeloriginated. Specializes mainly in classical music.It stocks rare recordings, imported from abroad,and niche products. It also offers a pre-sale ticketservice for concerts and performances. Mon3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm.www.stradivarius.it. Via Caretta, 3 corner of CorsoBuenos Aires. T: 02 29400600. M1-M2 Loreto.oFF MapPassion ShoppingALVARO CORROCHANO – Originally hailing fromSpain, in 2000, Alvaro Corrochano transferredhis luthier’s laboratory to Milan in the heart ofthe Navigli district just a short distance fromthe Dock. A graduate of the Cremona school,he works according to the traditional methodsof time-honoured luthier workshops, mainlydedicating himself to the construction of bowsand stringed instruments (violins and cellos),crafting faithful copies of valuable originalmodels. www.a-corrochano-liutaio.it. Open:by appointment. Corso San Gottardo, 14.T: 02 83660539. Map E7BolaFFI – Just a short distance from La Scala, it isa reference point for collectors from all over theworld. From stamp collection to numismatics,from period prints to rare publications, Bolaffiboasts over one hundred years of experience inall types of collectables. Open Mon 2.30-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30-7pm. www.bolaffi.it.Via A. Manzoni, 7. T: 02 89013452. M3 Turati,M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4cithera – Located in the heart of the Breradistrict, the ’Olifattorio Bar à Parfums is a tributeto the culture of fragrances and the many waysof discovering them. Clients can try out over twohundred essences originating from France andEngland, thanks to a free “smelling” experience.The idea behind this unique fragrance bar isto heighten rather than dull one’s senses. Fora highly original full immersion into the worldof perfumes. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.www.cithera.it/brera. Via Brera, 23.T: 02 72004400. M2 Lanza. Map F4cioccolatopUro – Bring a taste of Milan homefrom this delicious chocolate shop located in theheart of Brera. This store cum workshop offersan incredible selection of articles in chocolate,fondant or milk chocolate, mousses, slabs anddragée, also available in mouth watering singleportions. There are chocolates filled with coffee,lime, orange and Grand Marnier, truffles, thyme,lavender, plus lots more. The shop also organizessmall chocolate-themed performances withmusicians and writers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.cioccolatopuronline.com. Piazzadel Carmine, 1. T: 02 86915731. M2 Lanza. Map F4daniela DE MARCHI – Rings, earrings, pendants,necklaces and bracelets made from coral, twigs,bark and fruit, plus an array of other naturebasedproducts. Daniela De Marchi makespersonalized jewellery. Burnished finishes andenamels, combined with semi-precious stonessuch as agate, jade and quarz offer customersthe option of choosing each model in sometwenty different colours. Open Tues-Thurs-Sat10am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm; Wed-Fri 10am-7pm.www.danielademarchi.it. Via dei Piatti, 6.T: 02 86995040. M3 Missori. Map E6discomane (il) – Inaugurated in 1978, this isthe first second-hand record store of its kind42 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Clockwise from top:paolo lattuadaOne of the most exclusive flowerboutiques in the city (p. 33))ferrari storeAuthorized sales point of thehistoric Maranello headquarters(p. 31)salmoiraghi & viganòOffers a vast range of glasses,sunglasses and contact lenses(p. 33)ever opened in Italy. Clients can find a wideselection of LPs, CDs, audio cassettes, DVDs andbooks on music. Open Mon 3-7.30pm; Tues-Fri9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-13pm/3pm-7.30pm; open on the last Sunday ofthe month. www.discomane.com. Alzaia NaviglioGrande, 38. T: 02 8394860. M2 Porta Genova.Map D7Filatelia MAZZINI – In the heart of Milan, a“not-to-be-missed” destination for experts andcollectors of stamps, numismatics, theme andadvertising postcards and banknotes plus anarray of other collectables, with related accessoriesand documentation. Open Mon-Fri 2pm-6pm; Sat10am-noon. www.filateliamazzini.it. Via G. Mazzini,6. T: 02 8692430. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Filovia – You bring the design, inscription or logoof your choice and FiloVia will embroider it on anytype of garment, fabric or accessory according toindividual requirements. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm.www.filoviaricami.com. Via V. Monti, 28.T: 02 4815993. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D4G. LORENZI COLTELLINAIO – Located right inthe heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda andestablished in 1929, Lorenzi is a “must” for collectorsof knives, scissors and all types of shaving articles.The shop also sells lighters and accessoriesfor smokers. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat9am-12.30am/5pm-7.30pm. www.lorenzi.it.Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76022848.M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map G4Libreria dello Spettacolo – Historic bookstorespecializing in publications on the most disparateartistic subjects: a wide selection of titles dedicatedto music and dance but also theatre, cinema andtelevision, including monographs, biographies,scripts, plays, choreographies, dictionaries,magazines and periodicals. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm.www.libreriadellospettacolo.it. Via Terraggio, 11.T: 02 86451730. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D5marinella (E.) – Established in 1914, the Marinellabrand is known throughout the world for itsstylish, hand-made neckties, worn by headsof state, industrial magnates and celebrities. Inaddition to the legendary shop - still located inNaples - and its sophisticated Milan boutique,E. Marinella ties are also sold at its single-brandstore in Tokyo. New openings are scheduled inLugano in November 2010 and in London at thebeginning of 2011. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat10am-7pm. www.marinellanapoli.it. Via SantaMaria alla Porta, 5. T: 02 86467036. M1 Cordusio.Map F5Montblanc – A legendary manufacturer of finewriting instruments and sophisticated, highqualitywatches and jewellery. The product rangealso Includes eyewear and leather goods. Twolocations In the city (via Montenapoleone andCorso Vercelli). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.www.montblancitalia.it. Via Montenapoleone,27B. T: 02 76317720. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4stivaleria SAVOIA – Founded in the 1920s asthe official bootmaker to the Savoy regiment,it is the shoemaker-of-choice for all those whoare passionate about hunting, riding or polo.Today, it makes bespoke all-purpose boots andshoes handcrafted by artisans. The establishmentcarries both ready-to-wear and made-to-measurecollections. In addition to footwear, it also sellsdresses, shirts and small leather goods, alsocustomized to suit individual requirements. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.stivaleriasavoia.it. Via Petrarca, 7 cornerof via V. Monti. T: 02 463424. M1-M2 Cadorna.Map D4Scala SHOP (La) – A destination store for the loversof ballet and opera, this fabulously equipped shopoffers a wide choice of books, CDs, DVDs, giftitems, merchandise, photos and posters. It has acorner dedicated to dance equipment and shoesby Freddy, the official sponsors of the La ScalaBallet corps. Purchases can also be made online.Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm and on eveningsafter performances. www.lascalashop.it. Largo A.Ghiringhelli. T: 02 45483257. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F4ShoesALBerto GUardiani – The best of “Madein-Italy”featuring innovative, elegant,contemporary footwear. Handcrafted details(hand-stitching and customized finishes)and a selection of prime quality materials.Mon 1pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.www.albertoguardiani.it. C.so Venezia, 6.T: 02 76021697. M1 Palestro. MAP H3ALFonso GARLANDO – Hundreds of styles,colours and heels in all shapes and sizes.At this store, it is truly impossible not to findexactly the shoe that you’re looking for! OpenMon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm.www.alfonsogarlando.com. Via Madonnina, 1.T: 02 874665. M1Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map F3angelo COMOLLI – Luxury, handmade shoes.The oldest shoemaking establishment foundedin 1847 by a Milanese family. Measurements aretaken and the information is then transformedinto a pair of wooden lasts, around which thewww.wheretraveler.com 43

Shoppingshoe will be built. Open by appointment only.www.angelocomolli.com. Via San Pietro all’Orto,9. T: 02 76022000 or 338 6374406 (mobile).M1 San Babila. Map G5Baldinini – Exquisitely crafted footwearresembling true works of art. Baldinini isknown throughout the world for its exclusiveworkmanship and perfect details. “Dreams tobe worn”. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm.www.baldinini.it. Via Montenapoleone, 15.T: 02 76016036. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4BerlUti – Berluti has been making bespokemen’s shoes since 1895. A perfect combinationof creativity and exquisite handcrafting.Everything is painstakingly calculated to ensurepeerless elegance. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat10am-7pm. www.berluti.com. Via P. Verri, 5.T: 02 76028554. M1 San Babila. Map G4BRUno MAGLI – One of Italy’s most famousbrands dating back to 1936. Classic footwearmade from high quality materials, featuringimpeccable details. Timeless styles, designed tolast a lifetime. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.brunomagli.it. Via Montenapoleone corner of viaA. Manzoni. T: 02 76018400. M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4cesare PACIOTTI – The rigour of artisanhandcrafting combined with Italian creativity.For those in search of classic “revolutionary”men’s shoes and ultra-feminine, glam women’sshoes with high heels that will turn your head.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cesare-paciotti.com. Via Sant’Andrea 8 and 8/a, T: 02 76001338;02 76001164. M1 San Babila. Map G4dev BOUtiQUE – Dev stocks Tod’s, Hogan andFay, under the same roof. Men and women’scollections, distinguished by a skilful mix oftradition and trendiness, premium quality,creativity and comfort. Why not treat yourself toa pair of these world-renowned “iconic objects”.Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.www.devboutique.it. Corso Vercelli, 8.T: 02 48028848. M1 Conciliazione. Map C4FABI – For discerning customers in search offootwear and accessories handcrafted by thebest of “Made-in-Italy artisans. Contemporary,sophisticated styles in keeping with the latestfashion trends. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 3pm-7.30pm. www.fabishoes.it. ViaMontenapoleone, 17. T: 02 76016413.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4Ferragamo – Established in 1926, Ferragamoshoes are real works of art. Each new line is theresult of fifty days of labour and all finishes areentirely handcrafted. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ferragamo.com.Women: via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054.Men: Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4Figini – Men and women’s shoes handcraftedusing the finest quality materials, a perfectblend of creativity and artisan tradition. ClassicCorso Buenos AiresThe longest shopping street in EuropeThe whole world meets inthis exciting district. Morethan 200 shops, flagship andconcept stores, amusement andentertainment: 9.00 till night. 7days a week.M1Porta Venezia • M1 Lima •M1-M2 LoretoSince opening in 1782, Corso Buenos Aires has been oneof the most important commercial thoroughfares in Milan.A real shoppers’ paradise, it offers one and a halfkilometre of window displays, with shops for all tastesand all budgets: sophisticated boutiques, alternatedwith trendy stores offering all types of merchandise andnumerous bars for a quick snack. Its side streets aboundin restaurants, many of which are ethnic. A Saturdayafternoon favourite with Milanese shoppers of all ages.footwear for everyday wear. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.figinifootwear.it. Corso Monforte, 2. T: 02 76022937. M1 SanBabila. Map H4Fratelli ROSSETTI – Renowned throughoutthe world for their comfort and fit. Thesebeautifully handcrafted shoes are a perfectmix of luxury and tradition, with an addedtouch of originality. Beautiful and stylish toboot. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm www.rossetti.it.Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4hogan – Add a touch of high-quality comfortand the best of Italian design to your shoewardrobe. Innovative, easy-to-wear luxury.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.hoganworld.com.Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4geoX – The famous “breathable shoe”, theresult of the creative genius of MarioMoretti Polegato, distinguished by a specialwaterproof, breathable membrane. Innovation,design and healthy feet. Nine sales pointsin Milan. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun11am-7.30pm. www.geox.com. Corso VittorioEmanuele II corner of Piazza San Carlo, 2. T: 0276028217. M1 San Babila. Map G5moreschi – Makers of luxury footwear andleather goods. Models that, over the years,have become a cult of contemporary lifestyle.A perfect combination of tradition, highqualityand fashion. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.moreschi.it.Piazza San Babila 1/3. T: 02 76280529.M1 San Babila. Map G4pollini – Though also producing clothingand eyewear, Pollini is best known for theamazing quality of its shoes (men andwomen’s). It stocks an array of wonderfulboots: comfortable, glam, versatile and trendywithout ever being “over-the-top”. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm.www.pollini.com. Piazza Duomo, 31.T: 02 875187. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5roBerto Botticelli – A mixture of flair andcraftsmanship, footwear and bags featuringthe utmost in luxury. Haute couture linescreated to satisfy the requirements of the mostdemanding clientele to make every purchasea unique experience. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.robertobotticelli.it.Via della Spiga, 42. T: 02 76316770.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4RUco LINE – For a modern, dynamic look.Renowned throughout the world thanksto the success of their sneakers designedexclusively for the female universe, a magicalblend of casual-chic. Painstaking attentionto the selection of materials and impeccablefinishes. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm; 2pm-7pm.www.rucoline.com. Via Borgospesso, 27.T: 02 76020507. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4sergio ROSSI – Sergio Rossi awakens thefemme fatale in every woman. Beautifully44 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2010

Shoppingcrafted, comfortable, eye-catching footweardesigned for women (and men) in search ofan iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoesis checked for quality at least 120 times.Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi.com.Via Montenapoleone 27. T: 02 76006140. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4silvano LATTANZI – A time-honoured brandof Italian luxury footwear for an elite few. A pairof bespoke shoes costs from two thousandeuros upwards. Two sales points in the heart ofthe city. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat9.30am-7.30pm. www.silvanolattanzi.com.Via Gesù, 11. T: 02 76028499.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4spelta – Handcrafted women’s shoes, famousfor their comfort and fit. A perfect meld ofartisan tradition and art, the pumps designedby Spelta are sophisticated examples of pureItalian design. Good value for money, stockssizes ranging from 34 to 41. Another sales pointnear to Corso Vercelli, in Via Belfiore. Open Mon3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.speltacalzature.it. ViaPontaccio, 2. T: 02 8052592. M2 Lanza.Map E3SUtor MANTELLASSI – The name Sutor comesfrom Latin meaning “fine sewer, cobbler” toindicate the luxury hallmark feature that hasbeen kept alive by the brand throughoutthe years. The time-honoured tradition ofhandmade shoes, but also bags and belts,preserved over time with pride and passion.Exquisite handcrafting and an exclusive designfor an object that more than a shoe is actuallya “state of mind”. Unique shoes for discerningcustomers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.sutormantellassi.com. Via P. Verri, 2.T: 02 76020339. M1 San Babila. Map G4tanino CRISCI – Handcrafted workmanshipfor shoes that are comfortable to wear andso classic that they will never go out of style.Beautiful boots for both men and women.Open Mon 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat10am-7pm. www.taninocrisci.com.Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76021264.M1 San Babila. Map G4vergelio – A historic brand offering someof the finest quality footwear for men andwomen. Collections that are always abreastof the latest fashion trends without everforegoing quality. A Made-in-Italy “must”. Thechain has many other shops scattered aroundthe city. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat10am-7.30pm. www.vergelio.it. Corso VittorioEmanuele II, 10. T: 02 76003087. M1 San Babila.Map G5viBram – This unique Vibram® flagship storeoffers the entire collection of the original“Vibram fivefingers®”, the barefoot shoe thatcombines premium quality materials andtechnology of the Italian company, marketleader in rubber soles production since 1937.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm;2.30pm-7pm. www.vibramfivefingers.com.Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Wagner,M1 Buonarroti. Map A4SportDECATHLON – One of the best equipped sportschains where you can find equipment forany type of sports discipline, from runningto archery, from skiing to tennis, from golf tosnowboarding. It has an enormous sales pointin the middle of town and is the best place tofind any type of sports item that you might haveforgotten to put in your suitcase. Open Sun-Sat9am-8pm. www.decathlon.it.Foro Bonaparte, 74. T: 02 80509755. M1 Cairoli.Map E4longoni SPORT – Established in 1972, it has nowbecome a reference point for sports lovers, bothprofessionals and amateurs. It carries all thebest-known sports brands, including the mosttechnical. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon2.30pm-7.30pm. www.longonisport.it.Via Arona, 15. T: 02 33105653. Map B1StationeryFabriano BoutiQUe – The boutique sellssuperlative quality luxury stationer’s items,combining the high quality of Fabriano paperwith materials, such as leather and linen, to makeeven the most simple of everyday items special.Products include diaries, bags, wallets, notepads,photo albums, cards and an array of differentarticles produced using only the most exclusiveItalian raw materials to guarantee the quality ofeach and every piece sold. The perfect placeto rediscover the joy of writing. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fabrianoboutique.com. Via Ponte Vetero, 17. T: 0276318754. M1 Cairoli. Map E4pettinaroli – Established in 1881 as a print shop,it subsequently branched out into traditionalstationery. On offer, highly unique gifts,personalized planners, business cards printedon the finest of papers and antique prints. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm.www.fpettinaroli.it. PiazzaSan Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino).T: 02 86464642-1875. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4pineider MILANO – An historic reference pointfor connoisseurs of style, exclusivity and Italiantradition offering exquisite handmade paper,hand-drawn prints in relief, leather goods andwriting instruments, all exclusively Made-in-Italyusing only the highest quality materials. OpenMon-Sat 10am-2pm; 3pm-7pm.Corso Europa, 13. T: 02 76022353-2558.M1 San Babila. Map G5TailoringCamiceria Ambrosiana – A destination storefor handmade shirts, one of the distinctive signsof male elegance. Double and twisted, superiorquality fabrics, a vast range of colours, stitchingin cotton or silk yarns, embroidered monogramson the pocket, mother-of-pearl buttons,these are just some of the details offered by thisprestigious sartoria. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7.30pm;Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm.www.camiceriaambrosiana.com. Via Soncino, 1.T: 02 72001818. M3 Missori. Map E6Campagna & C. – This high-class tailor’s shopstocks three lines: Gianni Campagna, forlimited series, hand-stitched garments, SartoriaCampagna Milano for pret à porter andDomenico Caraceni for traditional tailoring.All garments are entirely handmade, using thefinest, most exclusive fabrics and are completedby handcrafted accessories including shirts, tiesand knitwear. Gianni Campagna also presentshis lines in New York, Los Angeles, London, Parisand Tokyo. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.campagna.it. Via Palestro, 24 corner of corsoVenezia 53/A. T: 02 778811. M1 Palestro. Map H3Ferdinando Caraceni – The ultimate inelegant, luxury bespoke garments. Britishfabrics, cashmere from Scotland and Irish linensare used to interpret a sartorial tradition ofunparalleled excellence. Famous throughoutthe world for dressing politicians, professionals,celebrities and members of the internationaljet set. Open Mon-Fri 9am-12.30am/3pm-6pm.www.caracenisartoria.com. Via San Marco, 22.T: 02 6554284. M2 Moscova. Map F3larUsmiani concept BOUtiQUE– An expressionof timeless style and a leitmotif of sophisticatedelegance located in the heart of Milan’s fashionquad in the now completely renovated historic storeopened in 1954. A Concept Boutique extendingover 700 sq.m. on three floors, it oozes simplicityand understated luxury, reflecting the subtlety of itssumptuous apparel. The perfect place to build yourwardrobe with exclusive pieces. Larusmiani takesluxury retail to a new level. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm www.larusmiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 7. T: 02 76006957.M1 San Babila. Map G4nh Sartoria – Located in the historic centre,this tailor’s shop is the ideal place to buildyour wardrobe and stocks a range of knitwear,shirts and ties, all rigorously made-to-measure.Garments are produced according to timehonouredartisan traditions, using the mostexclusive British and Italian fabrics. OpenMon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm; Saturday byappointment only. www.nhsartoria.it.Via Chiossetto, 2. T: 02 780531. M1 San Babila.Map G5Sartoria Principessa – An old-world atelierfor customers aged 0 upwards. A vast samplerange is available for choose your dreamgarment, which will be produced in just oneweek in the desired size, colour and fabric.Open Mon 3.30-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. www.sartoriaprincipessa.com. ViaCastel Morrone, 20. T: 02 29525290. M1 PortaVenezia. oFF MapVinci Uomo – Impeccable artisan attention toeach and every detail, from the stitching of thebuttonholes to the colour of the lining, rightup to the buttons. Vinci makes custom-tailoredgarments and offers a large range of fabricsproduced by the most prestigious Italian, Britishand Irish houses. Open Mon 2pm-6pm;Tues-Fri 10am-1pm/2am-6pm; Sat 9.00am-12.30am.By appointment on Tuesday and Thursdayevenings from 7 to 8pm, tailors are available toboth take and recheck measurements.www.vinciuomo.it. Via Monte Cervino, 3.T: 02 48195397. M1 Amendola Fiera. Map A3www.wheretraveler.com 45

DiningVerdi’s Favourite SpotSet against an elegant backdrop in theheart of Milan, Don Carlos is an intimatespot set within a warm, sophisticatedambience. Its walls are decorated withpaintings and sketches from La Scalaand the restaurant is dedicated to themusician Giuseppe Verdi, who spentthe last years of his life in the Suite delGrand Hotel et de Milan, where hecomposed several of his most famousoperas. The restaurant has an elegantoutdoor area and a cellar boastingover 200 superlative wines. The menuis enhanced by the creative cuisine ofAngelo Gangemi, a young, talentedRoman chef, and his team. Open everyday until late at night for after-theatrediners.www.ristorantedoncarlos.it. Via A. Manzoni, 29.T: 02 72314640.For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comHaute CuisineAcANto Principe di Savoia – A fabulouslyelegant ambiance awaits you at the famousHotel Principe di Savoia. The tables are setjust the right distance apart, the service isimpeccable and the atmosphere exudescharm. The restaurant offers superior qualityfood prepared by renowned chefs with dishesthat stylishly update the classics of Milanesecuisine, with risotto taking centre stage. Thechef’s creativity is also expressed in the pasta,meat and fish dishes. Always open. €€€€.www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com. Piazza dellaRepubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. M3 Repubblica.MAP G2AIMO E NAdiA (il LUOGO DI) – Aimo and NadiaMoroni are the most famous team of great chefsin the city. Sheer, unadulterated haute cuisine.Among the many fabulous dishes on offer,the specialities for which they are renownedworldwide include: spaghetti with spring onions(a dish copied by dozens of other chefs, butnever with the same results) and their veal encroute, cooked to perfection. Closed on Sat atlunch and on Sun. Wonderful wine list. €€€€.www.aimoenadia.com. Via Montecuccoli, 6.T: 02 416886. M1 Primaticcio. off mapAlice – Wonderful flavours, colours and creativityby the young, talented chef, Viviana Varese.Haute cuisine featuring simple ingredients: roastpeppers and marinated anchovies, cod fish withred onions and capers, orecchiette with broccolirabe, mussels and crisp sea bream. Premiumquality meat and superb desserts. Closed onSun and Mon at lunch. €€€. www.aliceristorante.it. Via Adige, 9. T: 02 5462930. M3 Porta Romana.off mapARMANI NOBU – An ultra-trendy ambiancepatronized by the fashion crowd. It goeswithout saying that this fab restaurant, ownedby the legendary “Giorgio”, is located in Milan’s“Quadrilatero della”. Contemporary luxury,impeccable service and creative cuisine with atouch of Japanese, signed by the internationallyrenowned chef, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. Closed Satlunch and Sun. €€€€. www.armaninobu.it.Via G. Pisoni, 1 corner of via A. Manzoni.T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4ASSASSINO (L’) – This restaurant is for people wholove to experience the authentic flavors of thefour seasons. It communicates the passion forItalian cuisine that is the richest, genuine andfamous worldwide. Based on old traditions, thecuisine can offer taste ever new and never tirewith its typical flavors: meat, fish, vegetables,fresh fruit to be approached with care andcreativity to the dishes to create deliciousmenus. €€€. www.ristorantelassassino.it. PalazzoRecalcati-Via Cornaggia corner of via Amedei, 8. T:02 8056144. M3 Missori. MAP F6Boeucc – Its name in Milanese dialect means “hole,hiding place”. In 1848, before the “Five Days ofMilan” when the citizens rebelled against Austrianrule, it was used as a hiding place where Italianpatriots met in secret, pretending to be dininginnocuously. Unequalled in terms of history,atmosphere and sumptuous furnishings, thisbeautiful restaurant offers impeccable service andfabulous food. A favourite, since the very beginning,with celebrities and, in particular, musicians, it stillserves the “antipastino del pescatore” (seafoodantipasto) which was the favourite dish of maestroArturo Toscanini. Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch.€€€. www.boeucc.it. Piazza Belgioioso, 2.T: 02 76020224. M1 San Babila. MAP F4BULGAri – An oasis of tranquillity, carrying theBulgari trademark, in the heart of Milan. The famouschef, Elio Sironi, offers elegant presentations andsmall, though satisfying, portions. Try the Italianspecialities, from fish to polenta. €€€€. Open daily.www.bulgarihotels.com. Via privata Fratelli Gabba,7b.T: 02 805805. M2 Lanza. MAP F4CRACCO – Just a short distance from the Duomo,you will find an elegant atmosphere, tables setjust the right distance apart and good service. But,above all, the superb food by Carlo Cracco, a chefof worldwide renown. Superior quality ingredientscombined in original ways. Excellent wine list.Not only one but numerous types of Italian cuisine exist. Discover the specialities of each region at traditional restaurants!46 WHERE MILAN I december 2010

DiningGuidelinesThis directory, grouped by category, is a list ofestablishments recommended by the editors ofWhere Magazine and includes regular advertisers.MAP LOCAtioNSNote that references in bold at the end of eachlisting (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on thestreet maps on pages 78-79.INforMAtioNReservations for most restaurants are stronglyadvised. Consult your concierge. In Italy, serviceis included in the price meaning that althoughtipping is not compulsory, it is obviouslyappreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Somemenus include the word “coperto”, a smallsurcharge corresponding to the cost of theservice and bread. Although no dress code existsin Italy, semi-formal clothing is usually consideredde rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and barsare non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ areais specifically offered. Several unusual venues,offering unique gourmet delicacies, are listedunder Tasting Experiences rather than underthe standard Dining sections.PRICESPrices are per person.€ = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ /€€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.Where on the web: when youfind this logo go to www.wheremilan.com to find theupdated menu online.TheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comClosed on Sat lunch and on Sun. €€€€.www.ristorantecracco.it. Via V. Hugo, 4. T: 02 876774.M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5Four seASonS – The wonderful cuisine preparedby Sergio Mei, one of Italy’s foremost chefs, canbe experienced at this ultra-luxurious restaurantlocated inside one of Italy’s most glamorous hotels.His unique Mediterranean style of cooking, withparticular emphasis on the cuisine of Sardinia, thechef’s native birthplace, brings to life an array ofunforgettable flavours and ingredients. Closed onSun at dinner. €€€€. www.fourseasons.com.Via Gesù, 8. T: 02 77081435. M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4JoiA – Pietro Leemann is considered the guru ofvegetarian food or, according to his own definition,of “natural haute cuisine”. Several of his finestcreations include his “uovo apparente” (“Fake Egg”),his “tonno e la sua ombra” (“Tuna and its Shadow”),his “elogio della Sicilia” (“A Tribute to Sicily”) and his“dolcezza a strati” (“Sweet Layers”). The wine listis just as classy as the restaurant. Closed on Sat atlunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.joia.it. Via P. Castaldi,18. T: 02 29522124. M1 Porta Venezia; M3 Repubblica.MAP H2Marchesino (Il) – Gualtiero Marchesi, the “Maestro”of Italian cuisine, is the mind behind this fabulousrestaurant which, among other things, is set in asuperb location: the Teatro alla Scala. Musicand good food, a combination which giveslife to the best dishes of Italian haute cuisine,featuring original creations and updates ofthe classics of Milanese cuisine, from risotto tobreaded veal cutlets. After-theatre dinner service.Closed on Sun. www.ilmarchesino.it. €€€€.Via Filodrammatici, 2 corner of Piazza della Scala.T: 02 72094338. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F4NicolA CAVAllAro AL SAN CRIStoforo –Located in the “Navigli” area, this stylish restaurant,run by chef-patron Nicola Cavallaro, offers a semitraditional- innovative menu (with a selection of 4different types of raw fish for 25 euro). Don’t leavewithout trying his parma ham with cheese crèmebrûlée, his cod fish balls with chickpea sauce,his “porchetta”-style rabbit and his superlative“Chocolate obsession”. Closed on Sat at lunch andon Mon. €€€. www.nicolacavallaro.it. Via Lodovicoil Moro, 11. T: 02 89126060. M2 Porta Genova FS.off mapPARK HYAtt – A fabulous restaurant, overlookingthe Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, with food bythe supremely talented chef, Stefano Gozzoli.Signature dishes include, seafood salad, porcinimushroom salad with slivers of Parmesan cheese,eggs poché, catalogna chicory soup, freshspaghetti alla chitarra with Vesuvio tomatoesand basil, mullet stuffed with potatoes, capers,olives, orange sauce and sea urchins, costolettaalla Milanese and, for dessert, Montebianco “à lamode du chef”. Closed on Sat at lunch and onSun. €€€€. http://milano.park.hyatt.it. Via T. Grossi,1. T: 02 88211234. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5Piccolo SOGNO – Classy, impeccable service but,above all, fantastic fish dishes: oysters and caviarbut also sea-food lasagnette with a light pestosauce, swordfish steak and steamed lobster andprawns. Delightful desserts and Bavarian creams.Top-notch wine list and fine selection of liquers.Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€.Via C. Lombroso, 54. T: 02 5463080. off mapSAdler – Claudio Sadler is an internationallyrenowned two-Michelin star chef. His elegantMilanese restaurant, specializing in modern Italiancuisine, has lots of secluded dining rooms whereyou can enjoy a romantic dinner for two or aspecial evening with friends. His menus are neverthe same and, each time, offer tantalizing dishessuch as lobster salad and cotechino, risotto withparmesan and truffle crostini, fresh “cacio e pepe”ravioli with stuffed “amatriciana”-style calamari,aromatic fish dishes and chocolate mille-feuille.Open evenings only, closed on Sun. €€€€.www.sadler.it. Via A. Sforza, 77. T: 02 58104451.M2 Romolo. off mapSAviNI – As much a city Landmark as La Scala,this well-established restaurant is consideredto be the city’s finest. Stylish decor and periodfurnishings create a sophisticated ambiancewhich, combined with impeccable service, makethis a perfect dining experience. The chef MatteoTorretta offers an array of wonderfully creativefood, demonstrating his truly authentic talent.Two tasting menus, “Savini 2009” (5 dishes for 95euros), or “Torretta” (8 creations by the chef for115 euros). The à la carte selection inc foie grastorcione with margaritas and pan brioches, risottoal salto or with saffron, costoletta alla milanese,ombrina with a “guazzetto” of clams, grapesand artichokes, lamb with mint, asparagus andzucchini. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€€.www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (GalleriaVittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433.M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5TrUSSArdi Alla Scala – Located in front of theTeatro alla Scala, this restaurant, boasting twoMichelin stars, embodies outstanding interiordesign and top-rate cuisine. The chef AndreaBerton is known for his scallops with ginger andpeanut cream sauce. Other signature dishesinclude “liquid salad with cuttlefish dumpling andblack olive oil”, “risotto with raw prawns Sicilia andcoral” and “duck Nantaise, steamed breast, friedleg and grilled spring onion”. Closed on Sat atlunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.trussardi.it. Piazzadella Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3 Duomo.MAP F4Haute Cuisine • outside the cityANticA OSteriA DEL PONte – On the outskirtsof the city, Renata and Ezio Santin run one ofthe best restaurants in Italy. Signature dishesinclude: marinated San Remo prawns, salsifyand Ocetra caviar, foie gras marbré, raviolinistuffed with ricotta, fillets of mullet stuffed withanchovies, pigeon, hot chocolate flan witha white chocolate sauce and tiny, deliciouspastries. Superlative wine list. Closed on Sunand Mon. €€€€. www.anticaosteriadelponte.it. Piazza G. Negri, 9. Cassinetta di Lugagnano (MI).T: 02 942003. off mapBartolini – The restaurant of this young, famouschef is located inside the elegant, luxuriousDevero Hotel (just one minute’s drive from theCavenago exit on the Milano-Venezia motorway). Among the many fabulous dishes on offer, anabsolute “must” is the risotto with red turnips andgorgonzola sauce. Always closed at lunch and onSun. www.deverohotel.it. €€€. Largo J. Kennedy, 1.Cavenago Brianza (Mi). T: 02 95335268. off mapCorte (LA) – A discretely luxurious, elegantrestaurant with only a few tables. This charmingvenue, located just a short distance from thenew Rho-Pero fairgrounds, is run by two brotherswho are members of the Jeunes Restaurateursd’Europe Association. Highly creative cuisinein a charming, relaxing atmosphere. Closed onMon and on Sun evening. €€€. Via C. Chiesa, 36- Pogliano Milanese (Mi). T: 02 93258018. off mapD’O – This famous restaurant is run by chef, DavideOldani, who studied under “three Michelin star”masters of the calibre of Alain Ducasse, Albert Rouxand Gualtiero Marchesi and had the courage toopen a “starred trattoria”, not a luxury restaurantbut a relatively rustic, though elegantly simple,eatery. Impeccable service and superlative dishesat trattoria prices. “Must eats” are hot caramelizedonions, soft cotechino with a cock’s comb, saltglazedbeef, roast Belgian endive, coffee granitaand almond milk. Booking is essential. Closed onSun and on Mon. No credit cards accepted. €€.Via Magenta, 18 Fraz. San Pietro all’Olmo -Cornaredo (MI). T: 02 9362209. off mapOsteria del Pomiroeu – A romantic restaurant,situated just outside Milan. With its stylish woodinteriors and furnishings, it offers a relaxing,elegant atmosphere but, above all, the wonderfulfood by Giancarlo Morelli, a chef of Internationalrenown. Among his formidable repertoire, worthwww.wheretraveler.com 47

Diningparticular note are his risottos, featuring a varietyof different and fabulous ingredients and hiscostoletta alla Milanese. A great selection of finewines. Closed on Mon and on Tues at lunch. www.pomiroeu.it. Via G. Garibaldi, 37 corner of Via L. DaVinci, 47/49 - Seregno (Mi). T: 0362 23797. off mapPascoli – A stylish, elegant, tastefully furnishedrestaurant with a magnificent, large garden,lying on the outskirts of Milan. One of the maincharacteristics of the cuisine by world-class ChefMimo Pascoli are his superb, fresh, seasonalingredients. Italian haute cuisine. Closed on Sunevening and on Mon. www.ristorantepascoli.it.€€€. Via Fratelli Cervi, 5 - Cusago (MI). T: 02 9019395.off mapTraditional Italian CuisineAffori – An elegant, contemporary restaurant, itoffers a selection of first-class fish and seafooddishes, either raw or cooked, tuna tartare withvegetables, salmon salad with oranges andradicchio, squid with potatoes, apple strudel andchocolate pie with a traditional balsamic vinegarsauce. €€€. Closed on Mon. www.ristoranteaffori.com. Via M. Novaro, 1 corner of via Astesani.T: 02 66208629. M3 Maciachini. off mapAlBA d’Oro – Tuscan cuisine featuring typicalcold cuts for hors d’oeuvres, followed by ribollita,spelt soup or pasta starters, like pappardelle withmushrooms. It also offers a good assortment ofSmall charming restaurantoffering delicious disheswith particular emphasison fresh ingredientsOpen for dinner onlyViale Coni Zugna, 52Tel: 02 83390065fish dishes but is known, above all, for its meatand, in particular, classic “bistecca alla fiorentina”.End your meal on a typically Tuscan note withtarallucci and vin santo. Closed on Mon. €€€.Via G.B. Morgagni, 40. T: 02 74281189. M1 Lima.off mapAlfredo GRAN SAN BerNArdo – Founded bythe famous Alfredo Valli, an authentic legend ofItalian cuisine, this is one of the best places tosavour real Milanese cuisine. “Must try” dishesare “risotto”, “cotoletta alla Milanese”, sautéedkidneys and cassoeula. Zabaione and fingerbiscuits are the perfect end to a perfect meal.Closed on Sun. €€€. Via G.A. Borgese, 14.T: 02 3319000. MAP C1ALLA CUciNA DELLE Langhe – This stylishrestaurant, with its wooden decor, large mirrorsand discretely placed tables, is a favourite withVIPs on account of its ultra-glam, Corso Comolocation. The house speciality are “tajarin”, a typeof pasta resembling spaghetti. Closed on Sun.€€€. www.trattoriaallelanghe.com. Corso Como,6. T: 02 6554279. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP F2Alla ColliNA Pistoiese – An historic restaurantserving excellent Tuscan cuisine. Meat and fishspecialities, traditional soups and, of course,the “must-eat” “fiorentina” or fresh, grilled fish.Closed on Fri and on Sat at lunch. €€€. www.allacollinapistoiese.com. Via Amedei, 1.T: 02 877248. M3 Missori. MAP F6Al LeSS – The signature dish at this restaurant is“bollito misto” (boiled meat) served with all thetraditional sauces. Al Less is also a nursery sodon’t be surprised by the fact that they also sellplants, particularly aromatic ones, and books onplants and healthy eating. Closed on Mon andon Tues at lunch. €€€. Viale Lombardia, 28.T: 02 70635097. M2 Piola. off mapAmici Miei – Typically Italian tavern offeringtraditional Lombardy fare. A hot favourite withstudents from the Bocconi Università which is justaround the corner. Closed on Sun at lunch. €€€.Viale Bligny, 42. T: 02 58321197. MAP F7.Antica Osteria Il Giardinetto – Located in theNavigli district, this elegant, family-run restaurantoffers clients a warm, welcoming atmosphere.The menu comes direct from the Emilia Romagnaregion. Try favourites like its divine “gnocco fritto”, atype of pan-fried bread served with cold cuts as astarter. Only serves fresh pasta. Closed on Sat andat lunch on Sun. €€€. www.osteriailgiardinetto.it.Via Tortona, 19. T: 02 8393807. M2 Porta Genova FS.MAP C7Antica trattoria della PeSA – A seductiveambiance with its retro atmosphere and typicalbelle époque furnishings. The restaurant is,in fact, one of Italy’s most historic venues andoffers traditional Milanese and Lombardy cuisine,interpreted with genuine flair. A curiosity: a plaqueoutside commemorates a visit by Ho Chi Min,president of Vietnam during the famous, bloodywar. Closed on Sun. €€€. Viale Pasubio, 10.T: 02 6555741. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP E2Aurora – A nineteenth century interior in winterand a fresh outdoor area for alfresco dining on hotsummer evenings. Located in the vibrant designarea, its offers Northern Italian food with typicalcold meats, fresh cheeses and substantial maincourses. Don’t forget to end your meal with Aurora’spear and chocolate cake. Great selection of winesfrom the Piedmont region. Closed on Mon. €€€.Via Savona, 23. T: 02 89404978. M2 Sant’Agostino.MAP C7BAGUtta – One of Milan’s oldest restaurants, Baguttais famous, among other things, for a literary prizethat was once awarded here. In fact, it is also for thisreason that it is patronized by VIPs and intellectuals.Its top-class cuisine (Tuscan and Milanese) canalso be savoured in the garden. House specialitiesinclude: la “fiorentina”, the famous FlorentineT-bone steak, and soups. Closed on Sun. €€€.www.bagutta.it. Via Bagutta 14, T: 02 7600090.M1 San Babila. MAP G4BAroNE (il) – Sardinian cuisine at its best, thanksto premium ingredients and the skilled culinarytechniques of its chef, Luigi Piccolillo. Therestaurant’s “must try” dishes must be bookedin advance: “porceddu a carraxau” (suckling pigcooked under a stone) and “taccolas di Capoterra”.Also worth a try are lamb, stuffed pasta, fish anddesserts. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.ilbaronesardo.it.Viale Espinasse, 43. T: 02 33001883. off mapBerti – Open since 1866, for over thirty years it hasbeen run by Gigi Rota, the charismatic patronwhose passion and professionalism have made it avery vibrant venue: several dining rooms filled withan old-world Milanese atmosphere and one of themost beautiful and highly sought-after gardensin the city. Berti’s is one of the best addresses forMilanese and Lombard cuisine. Closed on Sat atlunch. €€€. www.daberti.it. Via F. Algarotti, 20.T: 02 6694627. M2 Gioia, M3 Sondrio. MAP G1CantiNA di MANUela/1 – Boasting a friendlythough trendy atmosphere, this restaurant isrenowned for its wine list. Offering over 400 labels,it sells some thirty different types of wine by theglass, accompanied by an excellent selection ofcold meats and cheeses, pasta and risotto dishes.Closed on Sun. €€€. www.lacantinadimanuela.it.Via G.C. Procaccini, 41. T: 02 3452034. MAP C1cANtiNA di MANUela/2 – Though part of thesame chain as the previous one, this location has adifferent owner and a different philosophy. Atthe bar you can have a glass of wine or choose abottle from the rack. It also has a pleasant outdoorarea and a handful of tables. Dishes include anumber of fish platters and a rare Parmesan cheesethat is matured for as many as 60 months. Thedelicacies served in the restaurant are also availablefor take-out and range from foie gras to cold meats,from pastries to wine. Closed on Sun. €€.www.lacantinadimanuela.it. Via R. Sanzio, 16.T: 02 43983048. M1 Wagner. MAP A4Cavallini – An elegant atmosphere and stylishcourteous service. For years, a reference point forupscale Tuscan cuisine, it offers an array of fine fare.Dishes to try include classic “crostini” and farrosoup. Delicious meat courses and a great winelist. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€.www.ristorantecavallini.it. Via M. Macchi, 2. T: 026693174. M2-M3 Centrale FS. MAP h1.Chic ‘n Quick – Bistrot owned by famous,two star Michelin chef, Claudio Sadler who48 WHERE MILAN I december 2010

HAUTE CUISINEL’ASSASSINOThis restaurant is for people who love to experience the authenticflavors of the four seasons. It communicates the passion for Italiancuisine that is the richest, genuine and famous worldwide. Basedon old traditions, the cuisine can offer taste ever new and nevertire with its typical flavors: meat, fish, vegetables, fresh fruit tobe approached with care and creativity to the dishes to createdelicious menus. M3 Missori. Map F6www.ristorantelassassino.itPalazzo RecalcatiVia Cornaggia corner of via Amedei, 8T: 02 8056144More info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comBOEUCCIts name in Milanese dialect means “hole, hiding place”. In 1848it was used as a hiding place where Italian patriots met in secret,pretending to be dining innocuously. Unequalled in terms ofhistory, atmosphere and sumptuous furnishings, this beautifulrestaurant offers impeccable service and fabulous food. A favourite,since the very beginning, with celebrities and, in particular,musicians, it still serves the “antipastino del pescatore” (seafoodantipasto) which was the favourite dish of maestro Arturo Toscanini.Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch. M1 San Babila. Map F4www.boeucc.itPiazza Belgioioso, 2 – T: 02 76020224More info: www.wheremilan.comTRUSSARDI ALLA SCALASituated in a magnificent position with a charming view over piazzaScala, it offers top-rate cuisine, supremely elegant interior design andfriendly, impeccable service. Thanks to the outstanding talent of itsChef Andrea Berton, one of the key representatives of young, Italiancuisine, diners will enjoy superb dishes made with only the freshestorganic ingredients. In 2009, it earned the prestigious rating of twoMichelin stars and, in 2011, was awarded 3 forks by the GamberoRosso 2011 Guide. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. M1-M3Duomo. Map F4www.trussardi.comPiazza della Scala, 5 – T: 02 80688201More info: www.wheremilan.comLA SINFONIALocated inside the famed seven star Town House Galleria hotel,Executive Chef Giacomo Gaspari stands out as a master of histrade. His cuisine is a combination of sublimely delicious, goodhealthy food appreciated by crowned heads the world over. Hisunderlying philosophy is the delicate balance between bodyand mind, in-depth studies on food and diet, know-how andapplication of the principles of ayurveda. Dishes tailor-madeto suit the most discerning palates. By reservation only. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5www.townhousegalleria.itVia Silvio Pellico, 8 – T: 02 89058297More info: www.wheremilan.comADVERTISEMENTwww.wheretraveler.com 49

Diningrecently opened this minimalist, charming,contemporary, though elegant restaurant,in the vicinity of his more famous venue. Itoffers simple though high quality cuisine withhighlights including grilled specialities andraw fish. Great wine cellar. Closed on Sun andon Mon. €€. www.sadler.it. Via A. Sforza, 77. T:02 89503222. M2 Romolo. off mapConte Ugolino da Marino – An historicMilanese venue, serving authentic Tuscancuisine. Opened in 1935, by “nonna” IrmaBiondi, it is now run by her grandchildren,daughter and son-in-law. Excellent traditionalsoups and fish starters. The house specialitiescontinue to be their famous “bistecca allafiorentina” and an assortment of grilledmeats. Closed on Sun. €€€€. Via C. Beccaria, 6.T: 02 876134. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP G5Convivendo – A characteristic restaurantin the heart of Milan. Recently restructured,it is the ideal spot for those who wish totry the flavours of good Italian cuisine setagainst the romantic backdrop of an oldMilanese courtyard. It has two dining rooms toguarantee a peaceful, relaxing meal. Traditionaland upgraded dishes. Closed on Sat at lunchand on Sun. www.ristoranteconvivendo.com. €€€. Viale San Michele del Carso, 7. T: 0248519944. M1 Conciliazione. MAP c5.Corte (LA) – Located on the outskirts ofMilan, in a skillfully restructured typical earlytwentieth century farmhouse, this rustic,though elegant restaurant features beautifullylaid tables and courteous service. Imaginative,high-quality cuisine with interesting upgradedclassical recipes. Excellent selection of wines.Closed on Tues. www.ristorantelacorte.com.€€€. Via Cusago, 201. T: 02 4597474. off mapdAl BoloGNese – This restaurant also owesits fame to its “twin” in Rome. Here, as in thecapital, the restaurant is a favourite with VIPs,managers and business men. Great cold cutsand mixed boiled meats washed down with aselection of fine wines. Closed on Sat at lunchand on Sun. €€€. Piazza della Repubblica, 13. T:02 62694845. M3 Repubblica. MAP g2DitirAMBo – Delightful restaurant in theromantic, historic Isola Garibaldi district witha good atmosphere and creative, traditionalItalian cuisine, prepared with passion and flairby chef Paolo Noè and his young assistantYury Martoscia. Closed on Sat at lunch and onSun. €€€. www.ditirambocafe.it. Via Garigliano,12. T: 02 69006955. off map. M3 ZaraDolce Vita – Patronized by students andprofessors from the nearby Università Statale,this restaurant is a good choice for both theyoung and the connoisseurs of good food.New signature dishes include scallops andgolden prawns, foie gras terrine, sautéedkidneys with “riso al salto” and, each day, adifferent dish-of-the-day. Home-baked breadand fresh pasta. Closed on Sun. €€€. ViaBergamini, 11. T: 02 58303843. M1-M3 Duomo.MAP G5DONGIÓ – This restaurant, owned by theCriscuolo family, is the best place to discovercuisine from Calabria, one of the most beautifulregions in Southern Italy. It is renowned forits starters, the real pride of its chefs, and its“caciocavallo silano”, a typical cheese foundin the south. Also worth trying is its “tiramisù”.Closed on Sun. €€. Via B. Corio, 3. T: 02 5511372.M3 Porta Romana. MAP G6Don LiSANder – For more than sixty years, afashionable restaurant situated right in theheart of Milan, just a short distance from theTeatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphereand impeccable service. The menu featurestraditional Lombardy and regional Italiancuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. Fordessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo withpersimmon sauce. www.ristorantedonlisander.it.€€€. Via A. Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130.M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4EDONÈ – The daughter of Eros and Psyche, inGreek mythology, the word Edoné means atrue incarnation of pleasure. A fabulous seafoodrestaurant with a reputation for some of the bestfish in Milan. Simply and elegantly decoratedwith a fish counter displaying only the freshestproduce. House specialities are definitelyconcentrated on raw fish dishes: tartare, shellfishplatters, carpaccio, unusual combinations, classicsupgraded by the chef and mouth wateringdesserts. Also offers a business lunch featuringa selection of dishes taken from the menu forwhich they only charge 18 euros. Via Orti, 31. T: 0236534864. M3 Crocetta. MAP G7El CreSPin – A combination of a trattoria and arestaurant, this is the perfect place to savoureither Milanese food or creative fish dishes. Try theossobuco with risotto, the costoletta alla Milanese(breaded veal cutlet), the linguine with lobster andthe fillet of sea bream cooked Sicilian-style. Closedon Sun. €€€. www.elcrespin.it. Via Castelvetro, 16/18.T: 02 33103004. MAP c1EMiliA & CArlo – Just a few steps from the CastelloSforzesco, it offers a good fish and meat menu.Highlights include codfish with red onion jam andthe real “fiorentina” (Florentine-style-steak), which isthe speciality of the house. For dessert: chocolatesorbet. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€. ViaSacchi, 8. T: 02 862100. M1 Cairoli. MAP e4eMiliANA Tortellini – This tiny restaurant,originally famous for producing and sellingfresh pasta, only has a few tables. The youngpatronne, Nadia Magnani, had the idea ofplacing a few tables in her shop where, at lunch,clients can savour a number of fabulous pasta orother dishes. Good service and a very interestingselection of wines. Always closed in the eveningand on Sun and Mon. €€. Via Ariberto, 17.T: 02 58109707. M2 Sant’Agostino. MAP D6Fico d’iNdia – True Sicilian cuisine in Milan:Messina-style capon, “maccheroni alla Norma”,tuna fillet with onion sauce and fish couscous. Closed on Sat at lunch. €€€. www.ristorantealficodindia.it. Via R. Bonghi, 11.T: 02 84892887. off mapFiorenza – Set against the evocative backdropof the Hippodrome, in the former rooms of thegrandstand, a large room has been partitioned offinto a number of secluded areas and still featuresthe original imposing counters and the creamand chocolate-coloured curtains. In addition to itsfamous raw fish platter, other specialities includethe tris di mare Fiorenza (a variety of 3 differenttypes of fish), spaghetti with Tropea onions andbottarga, the catch of the day or a mixed fry. Closedon Mon and on Tues at lunch. €€€. www.trenno.it.Piazzale dello Sport, 20 corner of via Pegaso, 6.T: 02 33200659. off mapGIANNI E DORINA – This charming, romanticrestaurant boasts a feminine touch thanks toEster, its talented chef, and Dorina Chionna,patronne and renowned sommelier. Traditionaldishes, wonderfully genuine ingredients andmenus designed especially for vegetarians,vegans and celiacs. Closed on Sat at lunch and onSun. €€. www.gianniedorina.com. Via G. Pepe, 38.T: 02 606340. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP E1GiANNino – One of the oldest restaurants in Milan,it was opened in 1989, by Pisa-born GianninoBindi. Boasting a 500 seating capacity, therestaurant has a number of elegantly furnisheddining rooms decorated in light and dark shades.Classic menus and simple food made from onlythe finest, freshest ingredients. A varied menu inkeeping with the restaurant’s age-old traditionfeaturing a wide selection of fish and meat,regional dishes and mouth watering desserts.Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch. €€. www.giannino.it. Via V. Pisani, 6. T: 02 66986998. M3Repubblica. MAP G2Girarrosto – An historic destination in the heartof Milan and a celebrity favourite. Must-try dishesinclude “penne” with Tuscan chicken livers andFlorentine tripe. Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch.www.algirarrosto.com. Corso Venezia, 31. T: 0276000481. M1 Palestro, M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4Giulio PANe e Ojo – A taste of Rome in Milan (butalso in other cities such as Munich and New York).Always crowded and patronized by a young,trendy clientele, it offers the best recipes of Romantradition. This restaurant is popular on account ofits good quality food, friendly atmosphere and fairprices. Closed on Sun. www.giuliopaneojo.com.€€. Via L.A. Muratori, 10. T: 02 5456189. M3 PortaRomana. MAP H7Harry’s Bar – Situated right in front of the TeatroArcimboldi, this elegant restaurant, boastingexcellent service, is the perfect place to enjoy twospecialties: “risotto al salto” and the delicious trolleyof mixed boiled meats. Also offers an array of goodseafood dishes. Closed on Sun. www.harrysmilano.it. Viale dell’Innovazione, 20. T: 02 64109060.off mapiSola dei SAPori – A good place to take a breakfrom shopping. It offers all the flavours of Sardiniawith fresh fish dishes and roast suckling pig (orderin advance). Closed on Sun and on Mon at lunch.www.ristoranteisoladeisapori.it. €€€. Via Anfossi, 10.T: 0254100708. off mapL’AltrA ISolA – A stylish though simple trattoriaand a real “home from home” thanks to the foodand welcome given by its patron, Gianni Borelli,boasting over forty years of experience in thebusiness. Milanese and Lombardy recipes executedto perfection. In addition to “cassoeula”, which is50 WHERE MILAN I december 2010

DIScovERINGTHE SEcRETSoF THE bEST cHEFSIS NoT So DIFFIculT.JuST TAkE A SEATAT THEIR TAblE.THE FINE DINING WATERS

DiningClockwise from top:CALIFORNIA BAKeryA corner of Americain the city (p.58)LA TORRE DI PISATraditional Tuscan cuisinein a warm and welcomingatmosphere (p.56)CAFFè ZUccAA good place to meet for adrink or lunch, just in front ofthe Duomo (p.58)the speciality of the house, cold cuts, “risotto”, tripe,“ossobuchi”, “stracotto” (pot roast) with polenta and“zabaione”. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sunday.€€€. Via E. Porro, 8/b. T: 02 60830205. M3 Maciachini.off mapLEO – Three intimate dining rooms featuring apleasantly demodè air, trattoria-style furnitureand paintings of marine subjects for one of thebest fish restaurants in town at affordable prices.Shellfish hors d’oeuvres, fish pasta dishes, followedby grilled fish or mixed seafood frys. No creditcards accepted. Closed on Sun evening and onMon. €€€. Via Trivulzio, 26 corner of via Fontanesi.T:02 40071445. M1 Gambara. off mapLIBerty – This authentic bistrot, offering a pleasantambiance and a small inside balcony, is locatedin the trendy Corso Como district. The chef,Andrea Provenzali, is one of the city’s emergingtalents. Specialities inc paté, but also bucatini andsaffron-flavoured risotto, “costoletta alla milanese”and warm fig strudel. Varied wine list offeringgood value for money. Closed on Sat at lunchand on Sun. €€€ www.il-liberty.it. Viale MonteGrappa, 6. T: 02 29011439. M2 Garibaldi;M3 Repubblica. MAP F2Malavoglia – Typically Sicilian cuisine. A historicvenue and one of the first to be know for itsSouthern fare. House specialities include fresh fish,its famous pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)and its tempting cannoli and cassata. Openevenings only. Closed on Sun. Booking advisable.www.ristorante-imalavoglia.com. €€€€. Via Lecco,4. T: 02 29531387. M1 Porta Venezia. MAP H3MASUelli SAN MArco – Milanese, Lombard andPiedmontese cuisine at this historic Milan-basedtrattoria which is still run by the family. Therestaurant has been welcoming customers in thesame way for almost a century and the menu, aswas customary in those days, still offers severalfixed dishes. Monday “boiled meat”, Tuesday,“tripe”, Thursday, “cassoeula”, Friday cod. One ofthe house favourites is the classical “risotto allamilanese”. Great selection of wines. Closed on Sunand on Mon at lunch. €€€. www.masuelli-trattoria.com. Viale Umbria, 80. T: 02 55184138. off mapMatarel – Time has stood still in this restaurantwith its antique furniture and fabulous food inwhich Milanese cuisine takes centre stage. Wortha try are risotto alla Milanese, breaded cutlets androast veal. Closed on Tues and on Wed at lunch.€€€. Via L. Solera Mantegazza, 2 corner of CorsoGaribaldi, 75. T: 02 654204. M2 Moscova. MAP E3Matteoni (I) – Run by the Matteoni family since1924, it has always been a favourite with writers,poets and academics. A prevalently Tuscanmenu inc soups, meat and mushrooms. Closedon Sun. www.imatteoni.it. €€€. www.imatteoni.it. Piazza Cinque Giornate, 6 corner of viale ReginaMargherita. T: 02 5463520. MAP H5Mela Verde – Pugliese cuisine and wonderfullyfresh fish. The restaurant has a slightly pizzeriastyleinformal atmosphere and serves fabulousCatalan-style prawns, fried anchovies andhome-made pasta like Tarantina-style orecchiette(tomato, mussels and clams) or super seafoodspaghetti and classic fish grills or mixed friedseafood platters. Closed on Wed and on Thurs atlunch. €€€. Via Monviso, 36. T: 02 33600971. MAPD1mistral – Originally established as a delicatessen inthe 60’s and later transformed into a trattoria, thissmall charming venue in the heart of Milan offers atraditional menu based on the best home-cookedcuisine. It has a good selection of fresh fish andan interesting assortment of vegetarian dishes.For a real taste of Milan, its risotto dishes are anabsolute “must”. Pasta, bread and desserts are allhome-made and the restaurant has a small outdoordining area. Closed on Sat at midday and on Sun.€€. www.ristorantemistral.it. Viale Monte Nero, 34.T: 02 55019104. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7Napoli sulla MarteSANA – Cusine from theCampania area and Neapolitan specialities.Their signature dish is Neapolitan-style “pasta efagioli” with mussles. Closed on Sun. €€€. Via G.B.Sammartini, 21. T: 02 66982666. M3 Sondrio,M2 Caiazzo. off mapNon solo leSSo – Its relaxed welcomingatmosphere is reflected in its particularly versatilemenu: a la carte food until midnight, €15 menu atlunch and happy hour from 6.30 to 8pm. NorthernItalian cuisine. Open every day. www.nonsololesso.it. €€. Via G. Broggi, 13 (entrance from Via F. Redicorner of via G. Jan) T: 02 36533440. M1 Lima.off mapNovelli – This trattoria, located on the outskirtsof the city, is a part of Milan’s history. It is, in fact,the favourite haunt of one of Italy’s most popularcelebrities, the Milanese singer, Adriano Celentano.Lombardy and, in particular, Milanese cuisine takecentre stage. An absolute “must” are its “risotti”(order in advance for a minimum of 5 people) andboiled chicken. Closed on Mon. €€. Viale Padova,344. T: 02 27207769. M2 Cascina Gobba. off mapNUovo MACELLO – Traditional dishes, upgradedwith great skill and creativity: “risotto alla milanese”and “cotoletta alla milanese”, but also moreexperimental specialities such as “topinamburgnocchetti” with thyme-flavoured codfish, grilledpork spare ribs with pan-cooked cabbage anda spicy sauce, fresh chestnut desserts, marronsglacées and persimmon crème brulée. Closed onSat and Sun. €€€. www.trattoriadelnuovomacello.it. Via Lombroso, 20. T: 02 59902122. off mapOLTREMARE – Located inside the Boscolo ExedraHotel in Milan, just a few steps from the Duomo,52 WHERE MILAN I december 2010

TASTES OF THE CITYSEVENWith a choice of various locations scattered throughout thecity, at Seven you can relax in a charming ambience whiletasting the best meat in the world, chosen by our expert staff.Filetto staccato (filet wrapped in a thin layer of lard), Angus ribroast,suckling pig and other delicacies such as an assortmentof cold cuts, a selection of French and Italian cheeses, foie-gras,fabulous deep-fried treats and… lots more besides! Fusioncuisine that brings the world to your home, accompanied by afine selection of wines: over 180 labels on the list, with a choiceof 24 wines also available by the glass.• Casa dei Ciliegi – via Bertelli, 4 – T: 02 2615190• Corso Colombo – corso Colombo, 11 – T: 02 58101669• Viale Montenero – viale Monte Nero, 29 – T: 02 54019867www.sevengroup.itMore info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comZIO PESCEA welcoming, informal atmosphere, with two locations indifferent areas of the city, offering a high-quality, tasty thoughsimple fish-based menu. At Zio Pesce you can savour Catalanstylelobster, oyster and seafood platters, Seafood risotto,Imperial-style turbot, a mixed-fry of local seafood and lotsof other dishes of the best Italian and international tradition.Defining itself as a “seafood workshop”, it guarantees fresh fishcaught on a daily basis: and, to ensure freshness at affordableprices, the menu varies from day to day, depending on themarket offer.TheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comwww.ziopesce.itMore info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.com• Zio Pesce – via Cicco Simonetta, 8 – T: 02 58109145• Zio Pesce – via Andrea Maffei, 12 – T: 02 49794967JOE CIPOLLAAt Joe Cipolla, you can choose your meat directly from themeat counter and have it cooked over a charcoal fire, for areally special, unique flavour! Joe Cipolla welcomes you with anarray of house specialities: cold cuts and cheese produced bysmall local manufacturers; a wide variety of meat from the bestpastures: charcoal-cooked rice, bruschette made with homebakedbread, char-grilled onions and lots of other specialitiescooked directly over a charcoal fire; “homemade” desserts andpasta and an excellent selection of fine wines.• Joe Cipolla – via Vigevano, 33 – T: 02 58114363ADVERTISEMENTwww.joecipolla.itMore info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comwww.wheretraveler.com 53

TASTES OF THE CITYMISTRALOriginally established as a delicatessen in the 60’s and latertransformed into a trattoria, this small charming venue in theheart of Milan offers a traditional menu based on the besthome-cooked cuisine. It has a good selection of fresh fish andan interesting assortment of vegetarian dishes. For a real tasteof Milan, its risotto dishes are an absolute “must”. Pasta, breadand desserts are all home-made and the restaurant has a smalloutdoor dining area. Closed on Sat at midday and on Sun. M3Porta Romana. Map H7www.ristorantemistral.itViale Monte Nero, 34 – T: 02 55019104More info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comCENTRO ITTICO-RAW FISH CAFÉOriginally a wholesale fishmonger, the restaurant has a trulyoriginal atmosphere and is a favourite with regulars and fishlovers. Special features include a twin-level loft, a ground floorrestaurant and a lounge bar open until 2am. Fabulous raw fish,including all types of shellfish and top-notch grilled and frieddishes. Open daily. M1 Rovereto. Off Mapwww.rawfishcafe.itVia Martiri Oscuri, 19T: 02 26143774More info: www.wheremilan.comEDONÈA fabulous seafood restaurant with a reputation for some of thebest fish in Milan. Simply and elegantly decorated with a fishcounter displaying only the freshest produce. House specialitiesare definitely concentrated on raw fish dishes: tartare, shellfishplatters, carpaccio, unusual combinations, classics upgraded bythe chef and mouth watering desserts. Also offers a business lunchfeaturing a selection of dishes taken from the menu for which theyonly charge 18 euros. M3 Crocetta. Map G7www.edonemilano.itVia Orti, 31T: 02 36534864More info: www.wheremilan.comBBQAn elegant dining room, decorated in warm red tones highlightedby an original collection of exotic, multi-coloured lamps, offersguests a pleasant, homely atmosphere. House favourites includea selection of the finest quality meats (from Piedmont. Argentina,Bavaria and Tuscany) but also other Mediterranean-style dishes,including fish and a mouth-watering selection of homemadecakes for all tastes. Closed on Sat and on Sun lunch. Map H5Via Sottocorno, 5/AT: 02 76003571More info: www.wheremilan.comADVERTISEMENTwww.wheretraveler.com 55

DiningProediComunicazioneOne of the few truly Kosherrestaurants in Milan,serving an internationalfish and meat menuof delicate contrastsTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comTraditions of the Middle East,America, Asia and South Americaare combined in delectable, tastydishes, served against the backdropof a warm, friendly, welcomingambience. Denzel uses only thefinest ingredients and rigorouslyfollows the rules of Kashrut. Forbig appetities, try the 530 gramhamburger or treat yourself toceviche and the fabulous assortmentof appetizers and side dishes.Via G. Washington, 9 (Porta Magenta) - M1 WagnerT: 02 48519326OpenSun-Thu 12am-3.30pm; 7pm-11.30pm.Fri 12am-3.30pm.with aragostelle (a mix between a langouste anda prawn), soups, sliced fillet of beef with artichokesand home-made desserts. Closed on Mon. www.rigolo.it. Largo Treves. T: 02 804589. M2 Moscova.MAP F3roSSe (le) – “Salumi-bar”: this is how the restaurantdescribes its particular speciality. Its menu featuresdozens of high quality cured meats, excellentcheeses and dishes of the day featuring pasta,rice and vegetables. Set in a charming corner ofMilan, in corso Garibaldi, in summer, clients caneat outside in a Parisian-style courtyard. Fabulousselection of wines. Closed on Sun. www.lerosse.it.€€. Corso G. Garibaldi, 79. T: 02 92870416.M2 Moscova. MAP E3TaverNA del SacriPANte – Simone Suardi is oneof Milan’s youngest and most talented chefs. Aprotégé of the famous Pietro Leeman, chef patronof the famous Joia restaurant, he boasts creativity,technical ability and intelligence. At his restaurant,with its Parisian-bistrot type atmosphere, clients cansavour a mixture of creative, traditional dishes. Inaddition to risotto, fish’n chips and fried pizza are his“must-try” specialities. Always closed at lunch andon Mon. €€. Viale Coni Zugna, 52. T: 02 83390065. M2Sant’Agostino. MAP C6TAverNA DELLA TRISA – Cuisine from the TrentinoAlto Adige area, just a short distance from the RAItelevision studios and Fiera Milano City. Someof the typical house favourites include polenta,soups and stewed capriolo. Good service andfood. Among the desserts, the apple strudel isdefinitely worth a try. The wine list features winesfrom the Trentino area and high quality grappas.Closed on Mon. €€. Via F. Ferruccio, 1. T: 02 341304.MAP C2TAverNettA DA ELIO (LA) – A favourite with VIPs,it offers Tuscan specialities beautifully preparedand served by its owner, Marco Piccoli and his wifeMonica. Enjoy dishes like “crostini”, a choice of coldcuts, “ribollita”, “panzanella” (aTuscan bread andtomato salad) and the superb “cioncia di Collodicon fagioli all’uccelletto” (stewed veal). The mealends on a perfect note with “cantuccini”, typicalTuscan biscuits. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun.€€€. www.tavernetta.it. Via Fatebenefratelli, 30.T: 02 653441. M3 Turati. MAP F3Ti ricordi – Boasting a large, luminous diningroom, this restaurant is ideal for a dinner withfriends. It serves typically Southern Italian cuisinebut also a number of Milanese specialities.Highlights include a wood-fired oven forsumptuous pizzas Always open. €€. www.tiricordiristorante.it. Via G. Murat, 32. T: 02 69311398.M3 Maciachini. off mapTorre del MANGia – Quick reliable service and apleasant atmosphere. This Tuscan restaurant servesfish dishes like seafood spaghetti and sea-bass withpotatoes and onions but also meat dishes includingtheir renowned “bistecca alla fiorentina”. Closed onSun evening and on Mon. www.torredelmangia.it.€€€. Via G.C. Procaccini, 37. T: 02 314871. MAP C2Torre di PiSA (lA) – This historic trattoria offerstraditional Tuscan cuisine in a warm, welcomingatmosphere. Guests are greeted at the entrance bya long table, spilling over with simple, genuine foodwhich you can watch being prepared in the openairkitchen. Delicious food and an elegantly simpleatmosphere to make diners feel totally at home.Closed on Sat at lunch. €€. www.trattoriatorredipisa.it. Via Fiori Chiari, 21/5. T: 02 874877;T: 02 804483.M2 Lanza. MAP F3trAttoriA MirtA – A real “trattoria”, interpretedin a modern-day key. The restaurant is owned byCristina Borgherini and her talented, chef husband,Juan Lema, a native of Montevideo, who has livedin Italy for over 20 years. The menu features coldcuts, sweet-bread, home-made pasta (freshly madeevery day), tagliatelle al ragù, baked buckwheat“crespelle”, tripe with potatoes, beans and saffron,suckling pig and tarte tatin or chocolate cake.Closed on Sat and Sun. €€. www.trattoriamirta.it.Piazza San Materno, 12. T: 02 91180496. M2 Udine.off mapTRONco (AL) – In the Garibaldi district, just near thenew Palazzo della Regione Lombardia, you willfind one of Milan’s temples of Tuscan cuisine, runby the Zini family. A warm, friendly atmosphereand a variety of good food. “Crostini”, “prosciutto”,hand-cut with a sharp knife, “ribollita” and “pastae fagioli” and a selection of grilled meats, inc beefentrecôte. Mushrooms in season. As at all Tuscanestablishments worth their name, the meal endswith “cantucci”. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun.€€€. Via G.Thaon de Revel, 10. T: 02 606072. M3 Zara.off mapValtelliNA – A warm ambiance, reminiscent ofmountain resorts (“Valtellina” is a wonderful valleysituated in the middle of the Italian Alps and afavourite Milanese holiday destination) featuringtypically Alpine-style decor. Serves regional dishesfrom the area, with platters of cold cuts and richstarters. Closed on Fri and on Sat at lunch. €€€.Via Taverna, 34. T: 02 7561139. off mapInternational & Ethnic CuisineAlaceNA – The best of Mediterranean cuisine andSpanish gastronomic tradition at this restaurantlocated inside the Hotel Meliá. €€€. www.meliamilano.com.Via Masaccio, 19. T: 02 44406. M1 Lotto.off mapBBQ – A perfect choice for those who love chargrilledor barbecued meat: rib roasts, chops, lamband steaks. The starters, chalked up daily on ablackboard and varied each day, are also definitelyworth a try. Signature dishes: “pappardelle withporcini mushrooms and “bistecca alla Fiorentina”(T-bone steak) with potatoes. Great choice ofdesserts. Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch. €€€.Via P. Sottocorno, 5/a. T: 02 76003571. MAP H5boccino (il) – Located in the new fashion anddesign district amidst photographic studios,showrooms, fashion and advertising agencies,it has an intimate, welcoming atmosphere anda magnificent spacious terrace on the first floor.Menu includes meat and fish dishes. Closed onSun. €€€. www.ristoranteboccino.it. Via Tortona,21. T: 02 89415562. M2 Porta Genova FS.MAP c7Centro Ittico/rAW FiSH Café – A highly originalatmosphere for a great fish restaurant. Excellentraw fish inc all types of shellfish and seafoodand top-notch grilled and fried dishes. €€.56 WHERE MILAN I december 2010

Diningwww.rawfishcafe.it. Via Martiri Oscuri, 19.T: 02 26143774. M1 Rovereto. off mapCoMPAGNia Generale dei ViAGGiatoriNaviGANti e SoGNAtori – Japanese-styleambience and cuisine. Savour sushi, sashimiand a wide variety of uramaki (rice, fish andalgae rolls) while sitting on Tatami mats. Anovelty this year are: harumaki shrimps, i.e. fivefried shrimp and vegetable rolls served with ahot sauce and a special teryaky-based sauce.Open evenings only, closed on Mon. €€€.www.compagniageneralemilano.com. Via P.Sottocorno, 27. T: 02 5516154. off mapDon JUAN – Not far from the Navigli, Don Juanis considered one of the best places in town toeat Argentinean cuisine in Italy. The setting isan elegant reproduction of a “casa de campo”featuring the classic “Parrilla”, an open barbecuegrill. Meat obviously features big but so dofabulous hors d’oeuvres, empanadas, cold cuts,sweet-breads, various potato side dishes andtypical desserts. Closed on Sun. Booking required.€€€. www.ristorantedonjuan.com. Via Altaguardia,2. T: 02 58430805. M3 Porta Romana. MAP g7Exedra – Young, trendy restaurant featuring goodInternational cuisine with creative house specialitiesincluding dishes such as Catalan lobster, fillet of seabream with a sweet pepper sauce, pumpkin tortelliand creme brulée. Closed on Sat at lunch and onSun. €€€. Piazzale Cadorna, 2. T: 02 72000251.M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP d4Fuji – One of the best addresses in Milan for Japanesecuisine, this restaurant is the brain-child of an Italianand Japanese business venture. One of the firstin the city to offer oriental food, it continues toprovide light, contemporary dishes. There is also asushi bar. Closed on Sat. at lunch and on Sun. €€€.www.ristorantefujimilano.com. Viale Montello, 9.T: 02 29008349. M2 Moscova. MAP E2Giacomo – Thanks to its impeccable service andfabulous food, this is one restaurant that wouldnot know what the word “crisis” means. Top-notchfish dishes with particular attention to seasonalingredients. A favourite VIP haunt. Great wine list.€€€€. Via P. Sottocorno, 6 corner of via B. Cellini.T: 02 76023313. MAP H5GIArdiNO DI GIADA (il) – Experience andimpeccable service are the strong points of thislarge, luminous restaurant. An oriental ambiencewith design undertones, the lower floor housesthe modern, Jade Café “noodle bar”, featuringcocktails and an Asian buffet. In addition totraditional, mouth watering Asian fare it also offersreal Cantonese cuisine. Only the finest ingredientsand the freshest products, prepared in the stir-fryversion, on a hot griddle, steamed or with tofu.The best Chinese restaurant in Milan. Closed onMon. www.giardinodigiada.it. Via Palazzo Reale, 5. T:8053891. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5HoNG KoNG – Chinese cuisine. An elegant, evocativeatmosphere boasting good food and impeccableservice. Try the chef’s specialities like Kong Paochicken, i.e. chicken pieces with nuts, chilli pepperand a special sweet soya-based sauce; the fishdishes; Pekinese, Cantonese and smoked duck andrice puffs for dessert. Closed on Mon at lunch. Via G.Schiaparelli, 5. T: 02 67001992. M3 Sondrio. off mapiNfinito (L’) – A favourite with business people inthe area, it offers genuinely good food and reliableservice. Dining options include both fish and meat.Truffles and mushrooms available in season. Closedon Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€. Via Leopardi, 25.T: 02 4693517. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP D4LA BriSA – One of the most reliable eateries inthe centre of Milan, which remains faithful to itsfamed, longstanding reputation. International andItalian specialities inc foie gras terrine, ricotta-filledcannelloni, fresh pasta and delicious ice-creams.Closed on Sat and Sun at lunch. €€€. Via Brisa, 15.T: 02 86450521. M1 Cairoli. MAP E5MAMA CAfÈ RESTAURANT – Something goodat all hours of the day. This is the philosophy ofthis restaurant which stays open from the earlymorning till late at night. In the morning, a greatbreakfast with lots of mouth watering treats. Atlunch, dishes and sandwiches made from thebest Italian produce. In the late afternoon, HappyWine, a wine aperitivo. Brunch on Sundays and,at dinner, typical Italian regional dishes. Closedon Sun evening. €€. www.mamacafe.it. ViaCaminadella, 7. T: 02 86995682. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.MAP D6MANierA DI CArlo (LA) – Patron, FrancescoGermani has created one of the best fishrestaurants in Milan. The menu features aromaticdishes by the talented chef, Lorenzo Santi, servedin a romantic ambiance. The restaurant has itsown parking area, a tea menu, a selection of oilsand a well-priced wine list. Closed on Sat at lunchand on Sun. €€€. Via P. Calvi, 2. T: 02 76024261.off mapMANNA – Matteo Fronduti, the chef patron, isknown for his imposing size and his GhengisKhan-type moustache but, above all, for hiswonderful cuisine. The creative names of thedishes are in perfect keeping with this deliciouscuisine. It is possible to order half a portion foreach dish (prices are listed on the menu). Closedon Sun. €€€ www.mannamilano.it. PiazzaleGoverno Provvisorio, 6. T:02 26809153.M1 Rovereto. off mapMediterrANea –Set against an elegantMediterranean-style backdrop, it offers a rich andvaried menu of only the highest quality freshfish inc fresh seafood, crayfish and lobster eitherdirect from the tank or catch of the day. Housefavourites are: Catalan-style lobster or crayfishand the imperial plateau of raw fish and seafood.Also try the fabulous fish tartare. Special areareserved for smokers. Closed on Sun. €€. www.ristorantemediterranea.it. Piazza Cincinnato, 4.T: 02 29522076. M2-M3 Centrale FS.off mapMister ANGUS – Formerly an old seventeenthcentury convent, this warm, welcomingrestaurant, featuring open brick work and largewindows, is spread out over two floors. Some ofthe best Argentinian food in Milan. Prime qualitymeat, a key player on the menu, and beautifullyfresh fish. If you’re in the mood for some reallygood beef, then this is the place to go. Judging bythe pictures on the walls, you might even run intosome famous soccer star. Closed on Sat at lunch.€€. www.misterangus.com. Via Bandello, 22. T: 0243982638. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. MAP C5Riccione (A)– One of the most famous fishrestaurants in the city. Formerly patronized byjournalists and celebrities, nowadays, thoughstill expensive, it continues to offer first-rate fishdishes with a large assortment of raw fish. Wortha try are its mixed seafood fry and its Catalanstyleshrimps and prawns. Closed on Sat at lunchand on Mon. €€€€. www.ristoranteariccione.com.Via T. Taramelli, 70. T: 02 683807. M3 Zara.off mapRicerca Vini – The winning formula of thisrestaurant are its wine and Italian delicacies. Youcan choose from a selection of about 2500 labels,the perfect accompaniment to oysters or sashimi.Closed Sat evening and on Sun. €€€. Via V. Monti,29. T: 02 48193496. M1-M2 Cadorna FN.MAP D4SAMBUco (il) – Creative fish cuisine. Its mostfamous dish is “fritto misto di mare” (mixedseafood fry). Other specialities include crudités,fresh seafood spaghetti and fillet of turbot.Wonderful ice-creams (vanilla, caramel orcinnamon flavoured) and chocolate-baseddesserts. No fish on Mondays but “bollito misto”.Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.ilsambuco.it. Via Messina, 10 c/o Hotel Hermitage.T: 02 33610333. MAP D2Sarla – Sarla in Indian means “virtuoussimplicity”,the underlying philosophy of thisfamous Indian restaurant which is also the best intown. We suggest trying: “Aam Baadam” (chickenpieces in a mango, almond and cashew nutsauce), “Punjabi Kadhi” (vegetables and chickpeapatties in a delicate yoghurt sauce, flavouredwith aromatic Indian spices), “Lamb Korma” (lambcooked in a delicate cashew nut sauce) and“Chicken Balti” (chicken breasts in a hot tomatosauce). Closed on Sun. €€. www.sarla.it. Via G.Stampa, 4. T: 02 89095538. M1-M3 Duomo.MAP F6SEMPioNE 42 – Andrea Alfieri, a member ofGualtiero Marchesi’s Euro Toques and a teacherat the Culinary Institute of America and RobertaZulian, make a formidable team of chefs. Dishesinclude, Parmesan flan caramelized with creamof artichokes and eggs, “Risotto Acquerello” withasparagus. Favourite main courses are “la miacotoletta” and the restaurant’s codfish specialitywhile the desserts on offer include various typesof puddings, mousses and cannoli. Closed on Satat lunch, on Sun and Mon evening. €€€.www.sempione42.com. Corso Sempione, 42.T: 02 317849. MAP C2Seven – A real green oasis with all the appealof old-world Milan, Seven has five highlycharacteristic dining rooms and a veranda (witha seating capacity of 130) . Ideal for an intimatedinner or a dinner among friends. Cold cuts,grilled meat and fish and soups. Great selectionof wines. The owners also have other successfulvenues. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.sevengroup.it.Via L. Bertelli, 4. T: 02 2615190. M1 Turro. off mapVietNAMoNAMour – Located in a small, earlytwentieth century building, this is the bestrestaurant in Milan for Vietnamese cuisine. “Musttry” dishes include crab soup with ginger, beefcooked in an earthenware pot with star anise andfillet of sea bream in lotus flower sauce. Closed onwww.wheretraveler.com 57

DiningItalian GelatoPAGANelli Gelateria dal 1930 – Winner ofthe highly prestigious Artisan of the Year prize,awarded in 2010 by Papillon and the RegioneLombardia, Francesco now runs the familybusiness, established in 1930, by his grandfatherUgo. This legendary gelateria is still a hallmark ofeverything that gelato should be and is definitelyone of the best ice-cream places in Milan (seephoto above). It offers a fabulous assortment ofgelati, sorbetti (sorbets), ghiaccioli (ice-lollies) andgranite (the singular is granita, a frozen dessertmade with a water and a syrup base, much likesorbet). Via Adda corner of via Fara. T: 026702751.MAP g2Gelateria GroM – Entirely home-madeice-cream. Not even a trace of artificial coloursor additives and an almost maniacal choice ofall natural ingredients, Grom’s ice-cream is onlymade from the freshest fruit in season, highquality milk for the creams, free-range eggs anda selection of the best cocoa and coffee fromCentral America. Mouth-watering treats includepistachio, Amalfi lemon, nocciola (hazelnut)and Ribera strawberry (with a fabulously headyflavour). Via Alberto da Giussano. T: 02 43511942.MAP c4gelato ecologico e frozen – Onlyfresh products, meaning that flavours changeaccording to the availability of seasonal produce.Cool favourites include ice-cream with pine nuts,Catawba grapes and ultra-dark chocolate. Alsocarries an assortment of ice-cream made forpeople suffering from food intolerances.Via Ravizza, 5. T: 02 48010917. MAP a4Gelateria 54 – Possibly one of the mostfamous ice-cream shops in the city, boastingover 25 years of activity. Mainly oriented towardshome-made gelato, its best cream flavours arepistachio, pine-nut, cinnamon and almond, whilein the fruit range, also definitely worth a try arefig and peach. One of its specialities is chocolatewith orange. Via Canonica, 81. T: 02 3491044.MAP d2Gelateria mirtilla – If we were awarding aprize for frendliness, this gelateria would win it.In addition to superlative ghiaccioli, one of thehouse specialities, other fab flavours includecamomile, pineapple and cloves, wild fennel,strawberries with wine or rhubarb and polenta.Largo O. Murani. T: 02 7385587. off MAPSun. €€€. www.vietnamonamour.it.Via A. Pestalozza, 7. T: 02 70634614. M2 Piola.off mapYacout – The name of a famous restaurantin Marrakech, the ambience is reminiscentof a private residence in the Medina. Spreadover three levels, the restaurant has a tiledwater feature on the ground floor. It offersMediterranean cuisine and an array of enticingMoroccan food: pastille (fish, vegetables andchicken) and harira soup (a soup made frompulses served with dates and lemon) tajine andcouscous. Only open in the evening from 6.30pmto 2.30am. €€€. www.yacout.it. Via Cadore, 23-25.T: 02 5462230. off mapPizzaDA GIUliANO – Though somewhat Spartan,this venue offers delicious sliced pizza, eitherin a simpler version (their basic, tomato andmozzarella slice is absolutely fantastic) or with afilling. A hot favourite with the Milanese, its fanshave been flocking here in droves since the ‘70’s.The perfect place to catch a quick snack after thetheatre. Closed on Mon. €. Via P. Sarpi, 60.T: 02 341630. MAP D2DA RITA E ANtoNio – This restaurant, famous forits authentic Neapolitan pizza, i.e. round, not toobig and thin-crusted, is located next to the TeatroDal Verme, just near Parco Sempione and theCastello Sforzesco. It also serves fresh pasta andan assortment of meat and fish dishes. €€. Via G.Puccini, 2. T: 02 875579. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4friJENNO MAGNANNO – The epitome ofNeapolitan tradition, it serves utterly deliciouspizzas (try the version with mozzarella di bufalaor anchovies) as well as several regional dishes.To end the meal, fabulous desserts like “babà”,“pastiera” or “sfogliatella” (typical Neapolitanpastries). Closed on Mon. €€. Via B. Marcello, 93.T: 02 29403654. M2 Caiazzo. off mapGEMelli – Fabulous pizza made by the Falcone family,originally natives from the Amalfi coast, this is theplace that has taught the world how to make pizza.The house speciality is the “Gemelli pizza”: tomatoes,mozzarella, mushrooms, eggs and chilli pepper.Other dishes, all of Mediterranean origin, are alsoavailable. Their signature dessert is “cassata”, a typicaldelicacy from Southern Italy. Closed on Sat. €€.Via della Torre, 1. T: 02 2619809. M1 Turro. off mapPizzACCIA – There is no doubt that, at this venue,pizza takes centre stage. However, also worth tryingare its fresh pasta dishes or codfish with polenta. Forthose who prefer meat, the restaurant’s char-grilledAngus-Beef is also absolutely delicious. Home-madedesserts. Closed on Sun and on Mon at lunch. €€.www.lapizzaccia.it. Via Don Bosco, 11 corner ofpiazza San Luigi. T: 02 57404576. M3 Lodi TIbb.off mapPizzA E Sfizio – Gennaro, a Neapolitan from SantaLucia, hails from the home of pizza. Treat yourselfto a fabulous, crisp pizza with a thin crust either inthe orange dining room or outside. Also serves anumber of other Neapolitan dishes. Closed on Sun.€. Via T. Taramelli, 60. T: 02 66804594. M3 Zara.off mapQP – Contemporary, minimalist decor, small tables andpaper napkins. QP has a very interesting wine listand carries a number of top-notch beers includingthe rare Amber dei Monaci della Cascinazza diBuccinasco. Neapolitan cuisine and pizzas ofthe traditional, sea-food, capricciosa and diavolatype. The highlight of the house is its “chiù pizza”speciality, featuring eight different types of filling.Closed on Mon. €€. Via Pavia, 8. T: 02 89423445.off mapSPONtiNI – Renowned for its outstanding sliced pizzatopped with tomatoes, mozzarella and anchovies.Soft with a crisp base, the pizza is baked in a woodfiredpizza oven. Owned by Massimo Innocenti, ithas been a favourite with pizza fans since the ‘50’s.Closed on Mon. Other branches can also be foundin via Marghera and in viale Papiniano. €. www.pizzeriaspontini.it. Via G. Spontini, 4. T: 02 2047444.M1 Lima. off mapTasting ExperienceBIANcolAtte – An elegant bistrot where white is adominant colour both in terms of the decor andthe menu. It offers an assortment of delicious Italiantreats and desserts: pasta dishes, chicken Milanesestyle,fresh or matured cheeses and piadine but alsoice cream, cappuccino and brioches. Open Mon7.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.30am-midnight; Sat-Sun8am-midnight. www.biancolattemilano.it. Via F.Turati, 30. T: 02 62086177. M3 Turati. MAP G3cAffè Vergnano – A combination of old-worldItalian elegance and contemporary taste anddesign. The secrets of its success: the highestquality coffee beans are purchased directly in theirplaces of origin and roasted according to rigorouslytraditional methods. The ideal place to get to knowand appreciate not only the aroma of real Italiancoffee but also a variety of unusual food. Alwaysopen. www.caffevergnano.com. Via Speronari, 3. T:02 86996858 M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5cAffè Zucca – Situated in front of the Duomo, atthe entrance to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, thishistoric cafè holds the honour of supposedly havingintroduced Milan to the aperitivo in the Eighties.A meeting point for artists, writers and politicians,this is a good place to meet for a drink or lunch.Highlights include “Foamed Espresso” (based on anidea by Lavazza in collaboration with the famousCatalan chef Ferran Adriá) and Zucca’s renownedrabarbaro, a delicious bittersweet drink made withrhubarb. Closed on Mon. €€. www.caffemiani.it.Piazza Duomo, 21. T: 02 86464435. M1-M3 Duomo.MAP F5California Bakery – A corner of America whereyou can relax and take a break from the hustleand bustle of city life and taste typical specialitiesprepared with only the finest ingredients. Goodieson offer inc homemade cheesecake, muffins, applepie, stuffed bagels and doughnuts to delight yourpalate either at breakfast or lunch. Also available,fabulous savoury quiches of all types. A warmwelcoming atmosphere offset by shabby chicfurnishings and an open oven. Different menusserved at different times. Several locations (PiazzaSant’Eustorgio, 4; Viale Premuda, 44; Largo Augusto).Always open. www.californiabakery.it. PiazzaSant’Eustorgio, 4. T: 02.39811538. M2 Porta GenovaFS. MAP E758 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

CalleGAro – Old-style bakeries are a thing of thepast. The new ones also encompass cafés, tearooms, cocktail bars and trattorie. Red bricks andwood covered walls, open piping, mirrors, poufs,design armchairs and a large classic glass light fixturedominate the bread counter in this bakery whichhas undergone a total makeover. Founded twentyyears ago, the traditional products made by theCallegaro family (“small ricotta cakes”, “cremonesi”and the “spires of the Duomo”) are still on offeralongside new experimental foods such as breadsushi, cold organic and traditional dishes which canbe eaten at lunch. Always open. via Solferino, 18. T:02 29000465. M2 Moscova. MAP F3cucchiaio di leGNo (il) – The perfect place for aquick, delicious snack: you can purchase Italian delidelights such as ham and salami and high-qualitycheese as well as a range of select wines, chocolateand even cooking utensils. Tastings and cookeryclasses given by chefs and sommeliers. Closed onSun and Mon. €€. www.ilcucchiaiodilegno.it. ViaPonte Vetero, 13. T: 02 87388670. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4De’ CherUBini – Coffee, cappuccino and brioches,the key ingredients of a typically Italian breakfast. Itselegant interior (the furnishings originate from anSPOTLIGHTearly twentieth century chemist shop in Turin) is theperfect place to enjoy real croissants while sippingyour coffee or cappucino. Founded as a bar, it hasnow become an “in” place for a typically Milaneseaperitivo, set against the atmospheric backdrop ofthe Navigli. Closed on Sun afternoon. Via Trinceadelle Frasche, 2. T: 02 83242346. M2 Porta GenovaFS. MAP E7Frantoi Celletti & Cultivar – The place todiscover the taste of Italian olive oil set againstthe romantic backdrop of an old reconvertedolive-press. Culture and good food, for a uniqueexperience, amidst pizza and regional specialities,with oil playing a lead role. Fun tastings and anaperitivo every evening from 7.30pm onwards.Closed at lunch. €€. www.frantoicelletti.com. Via L.Zuccoli, 6 corner of via C. Gluck, 56. T: 02 66983712.M1 Pasteur, M3 Sondrio. off mapFIORAio BIANCHI CAffÈ – A highly originalambiance amidst Parisian and Milanese-stylefurniture and vases of beautifully fresh flowerarrangements. The menu, accompanied by afabulous selection of wines by the glass, offersseasonal dishes made from only the finest qualityingredients. Superlative desserts and tea tasting inthe afternoon. Booking required. Open Mon-Sat8am-midnight. www.fioraiobianchicaffe.it. ViaMontebello, 7. T: 02 29014390. M2 Moscova.MAP F3Luini – A Milan institution since 1948. At this standupcounter near the Galleria, you’ll have to elbowyour way through a throng of well-dressed patronsto purchase the house specialty: “panzerotto”,a pocket of pizza crust stuffed with all sorts ofingredients, including the basic cheese-andtomato.Service is quick and efficient. Open Mon10am-3pm; Tues-Sat 10am-8pm. €. www.luini.it.Via Santa Radegonda, 16. T: 02 86461917. M1-M3Duomo. MAP F5PANdeNUS – In one of the city’s trendiest and multiethnicdistricts, even a sandwich bar can becomea cool haunt. Its name in Milanese dialect means“nut bread”. A paradise of Italian treats with freshlybaked pizza, focaccia, cakes and brioches. Onweekends it offers a fabulous brunch from 12noonto 4pm. Informal aperitivo every day from 6pm to9.30pm. www.pandenus.it. Via A. Tadino, 15. T: 0229528016. M1 Porta Venezia. MAP H3PANino GiUSto – The “panino” (sandwich) isan Italian and Milanese speciality, which holdsenormous appeal on account of its mouthwatering ingredients, above all, Italian deli delightssuch as ham, salami, cheese and vegetables. Theestablishment offers some of the best “Panini” inItaly including one of the most popular, truffle andsalmon. It also serves other dishes including coldroast beef and “vitello tonnato”. €€.www.paninogiusto.it. Corso G. Garibaldi, 125.T: 02 6554728. M2 Moscova.MAP F2PASticceria Marchesi – Pralines and pastries,biscuits and homemade panettone (year-round),chocolates, sweets and over thirty different typesof cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. It still retainsits original early nineteenth century atmosphereand has a counter at which you can drink a cup ofcoffee accompanied by tiny, mouth watering treats.Pastries baked fresh on a daily basis and for theholiday season. A truly sweet treat. Closed on Monand on Sun afternoon. www.pasticceriamarchesi.it.Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11. T: 02876730. M1 Cairoli.MAP E5Aperitivo AvenueArco della Pace (Arch of Peace) provides the backdrop for lifein the surrounding district of Piazza Castello and Parco Sempione.The monument is one of the most interesting episodes ofNeoclassical architecture in the city and one of the best placesin town to enjoy the “movida Milanese”. Five hundred metersof bars, where you can savour a delightful Italian coffee, sipan aperitivo or eat at one of the many high-class restaurantsscattered around the neighbourhood. Arco della Pace usuallygets very crowded at night, especially on Saturdays and Sundays.If you are in search of a truly Milanese atmosphere and lots of funbesides, then this is definitely the place to go.PESCHeriA DA Claudio – Is an upscale seafoodshop, aperitivo bar and recently also a restaurantserving an array of pesce crudo (raw fish). One ofthe oldest seafood places in the city and definitelythe most famous, it is distinguished by itsfabulously fresh produce. Mon 11am-8pm; Tues-Sat9am-9.30pm. €€€. www.pescheriadaclaudio.it.via Cusani, 1. T: 02 8056857. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4Peck – A paradise for food lovers. At this high-classdelicatessen, for years an authentic temple ofMilanese taste, you will find the best of Italianexcellence, from cured meats to sauces, fromwines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spreadout over three floors, Peck is also a great placefor an unforgettable stopover, thanks to its largesampling areas. The search for quality is Peck’sprimary aim, achieved through a careful selectionof products from all over the world. A totallyworthwhile gastronomic experience. Closed onSun. €€€. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161.M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5www.wheretraveler.com 59

EntertainmentZUCCA – Zucca in the Galleria Vittorio EmanueleII is much more than just a historic café, it is aninstitution. After performances at La Scala, Verdiand Toscanini were known to stop here for anightcap. Today, it still offers a traditional Aperitivo.An experience well worth trying. www.caffemiani.it. Piazza del Duomo, 21. T: 02 86464435. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5BrunchCIRCLE – This “lounge & restaurant” is situated in theheart of the design district, in the Tortona area, atthe Diesel Headquarters. Trendy and innovative,it is open from 7.30 in the morning to 2 at night.There is always music, with great food. Brunch onSaturdays noon to 4pm. Closed on Sunday. www.circlemilano.com. Via E. Stendhal, 36. T: 02 42293745.M2 Sant’Agostino. Map B7DESEO – Just a short distance from the Arco della Pace,an elegant, people-filled lounge-restaurant witha good vibe. There is also a small tobacconist’s forthe joy of smokers. Sunday brunch from noon to3.30pm. Corso Sempione, 2. T: 02 315164. Map D3GLOBE – Sophisticated lounge bar and restaurant witha panoramic terrace on the eighth floor of Coin, oneof the best-stocked and trendiest department storesin the city. Its Sunday brunch, served from noon to4pm, offers an array of Mediterranean specialities.Reservations advisable. www.globeinmilano.it.Piazza Cinque Giornate, 1. T: 02 55181969. Map H5SPOTLIGHTH CLUB DIANA – Bar-foyer of the hotel SheratonDiana Majestic, renowned for its Sunday brunchand its happy hour which goes on until 10pm.Open daily from 10am to 1am. Live Dj on Tuesday,Wednesday and Thursday evenings.www.sheraton.com/dianamajestic. Viale Piave, 42.T: 02 20581. M1 Porta Venezia.Map H3JAZZ Café – A chic trendy location offering aneclectic cuisine and elegant entertainment, in aninformal, friendly atmosphere. Its brunch is servedon Saturdays and Sundays from 11.30am to 3pm.www.ristorantejazzcafe.com. Corso Sempione, 8.T: 02 33604039. Map D2METROPOLIS – A meeting place for the metropolitantribe and business people. Brunch is served onSaturdays and Sundays from 12.30am to 3pm.Just a short distance from the Stazione Centrale.www.cafemetropolis.it. Via V. Pisani, 5.T: 02 67171746. M3 Repubblica. Map G2PANDENUS – In one of the city’s trendiest, multiethnicareas, even a bakery can become a fun, cityfavourite. Its name in dialect means “nut bread”. Aparadise of Italian treats, including pizzas, focacciaand freshly baked cakes and brioches, to bebought or eaten on the spot. A “not-to-be-missed”brunch is served on the weekend from noon to4pm. Informal aperitivo every day from 6pm to9.30pm. www.pandenus.it. Via A. Tadino, 15.T: 02 29528016. M1 Porta Venezia.Map H2REFEEL – Located in the elegant, historicallyrich Porta Romana area, Refeel is an excellentcombination of elegance and vitality. Differentatmospheres for different times of the day.The kitchen is open every day from 10am. Jazzevenings on Tuesdays. Brunch is served onSaturdays and Sundays from noon to 4pm.www.refeel.it. Viale Sabotino, 20. T: 02 58324227.M3 Porta Romana. Map H7trIENNALE DESIGN CAFé – Set against thebackdrop of one of the most important museumsin the city, it offers a traditionally Americanstylebrunch. Elegant though informal, it is alsosuitable for children. A trendy bar and an exclusiverestaurant resulting from the expertise of the chefCarlo Cracco and the architect Michele De Lucchi.Brunch on Sun from 11.45am to 4.30pm. At theTriennale di Milano, Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 875441.M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4twELVE – The quality and variety of flavours, warmcolours and a welcoming atmosphere make thisSunday brunch an experience to which customerslook forward the whole week. The rich, mouthwatering buffet includes cheese and Italian coldcuts but also hamburgers and home-made cakes.www.twelvemilano.it. Viale Sabotino, 12.T: 02 89073876. M3 Porta Romana. Map H7SPEAKEasY – One of the first places in Milan tohave introduced brunch. Local American styleatmosphere, reminiscent of the ‘20’s, featuringwood boiserie and brick walls. On Sundays, from12am to 4pm, it serves a “not-to-be-missed” brunchaccompanied by a mug of Nescafé and an array ofnewspapers and magazines. www.speakeasy.it. ViaCastelfidardo, 7. T: 02 653645. M2 Moscova. Map F2Casino&GamblingInternational VibeEclecticism characterizes Bar Straf’s happy hour. Inaugurated in 2004,this street bar, named after the Straf design hotel, is located in the heartof Milan. At “aperitivo” time, it offers internationally inspired DJ sets, livemusic and special events. Open every day until midnight. “À la carte”menu and sandwiches available all day. Saturday to Monday, happyhour from 6pm to 9.15pm. Tuesday to Friday, happy hour from 6pm to10pm. Sunday brunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm. Every Tuesday,live music from 6.30pm. Wednesday to Friday, live DJ set from 7pm.www.straf.it. Via S. Raffaele, 3. T: 02 80508715. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5CasINO MUNICIpaLE DI CAMPIONE D’ItaLIA –Though existing outside of its fatherland, this tinypiece of Italian soil, located in Switzerland, is hometo Europe’s largest Casino and can be reachedin just under an hour from the centre of Milan.Its beautiful new headquarters, designed by thearchitect Mario Botta, are set within an elegant,international ambience. The casino offers roulette,chemin de fer, baccarat, black jack, poker and slotmachines. It also has two in-house restaurants.Open Sun 10.30pm-5am; Mon-Thurs 11.30pm-5am;Fri 11.30pm-6am; Sat 10.30pm-6am.www.casinocampione.it. Piazzale Milano, 2- Campione d’Italia (CO). T: 00800 80077700 (freephone). About 70km from Milan. Off MAPCasINO DI LUGANO – The third largest Swiss financialmarket and an important tourist hub, Lugano ishome to the famous casino nestling on the banksof Lake Lugano. Defined as a “play boutique”on account of its stylish, alluring atmosphere, itoperates an all games casino for an unlimitednumber of tables and slot machines. Restaurantwith panoramic terrace, offering a special businesslunch menu during the day. Open Sun-Thurs 12am-4am. Fri-Sat 12am–5am. www.casinolugano.ch.Via Stauffacher, 1 - Lugano (Switzerland).T: 0041 91 9737111. About 70km from Milan. Off MapCasINO DI SAINT VINCENT – The small town ofSaint Vincent, home to the famous casino since1947, is set within the magnificent mountainous62 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

MILAN EXPERIENCECAFFÈ LETTERARIOLocated inside the Teatro Grassi and its 15th century cloisters,restored to their former glory following in-depth restructuringwork, the Caffè Letterario, run by Soti’s Events, offers itscustomers a catering service 7 days a week. In addition to beingavailable for business lunches, tempting happy hours anddelectable Sunday brunches, it is also open to the public duringthe performances held at the Fondazione Piccolo. Map E3www.sotisevents.comVia Rovello, 2T: 02 72333505More info: www.wheremilan.comCACIO DIVINOA luminous, welcoming venue located in the Parco delle Basilichedistrict, where you can relax and take your time while enjoying itsfirst-rate food and wine. A star player on its menu is cheese, eitheralone or combined with other ingredients, to offer diners a richarray of different, mouth watering flavours: approximately 300different types of typically Italian and international cheeses and alarge selection of prestigious wines. Map E7www.caciodivino.comVia Santa Croce 4 – T: 02 83242350More info: www.wheremilan.comMORESKO HAMMAM CAFÉA corner of Istanbul transplanted in Milan. It offers an aperitivowith massage included. Customers not only can taste typicalfoods and beverages but also learn how to belly dance. Separatehammam for men and women. Reservations necessary. M1Gambara. Off mapwww.moresko.itVia Rubens, 19T: 02 4046936More info: www.wheremilan.comBIANCOLATTEAn elegant bistrot where white is a dominant colour both in termsof the decor and the menu. It offers an assortment of deliciousItalian treats and desserts: pasta dishes, chicken Milanese-style,fresh or matured cheeses and piadine but also ice cream,cappuccino and brioches. Open Mon 7.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Fri7.30am-midnight; Sat-Sun 8am-midnight. Map G3www.biancolattemilano.itVia F. Turati, 30T: 02 62086177More info: www.wheremilan.comADVERTISEMENTwww.wheretraveler.com 63

EntertainmentClockwise from top:PICCOLO TEatrO-TEatrOstrEHLERIt offers a “mixed” repertoire,international and Italian (p.64)TEatrO DAL VERMEThe venue for concerts, playsand dance performances (p.65)10 COrsO COMOA vast concept store dedicatedto shopping and entertainment(p.31 and p.64)region of the Valle d’Aosta, a well-known touristdestination for weekends and holiday breaks. Inaddition to all the main games, it also offers a richevents calendar. Open Mon-Thurs 7pm-10.30pm;Fri and Sun 7pm-12am; Sat 7pm-1am. www.casinodelavallee.it. via I. Mus, 1 - Saint-Vincent(Aosta). T: 0166 5221. Off MapWincity - A “not-to-be-missed” opportunity forthose who love gambling and betting: the newconcept Wincity is a 900 sq.m location that offerssome hundred different games including the latestgeneration slot machines, video lotteries and anautomatic roulette system but also tasting eventswith live music. This entertainment venue housesa restaurant serving typical Italian cuisine and alounge bar. An innovative touch is the presence ofa Personal Player to assist customers and outlineplay procedures and methods. Smokers’ areaavailable. Torre Martini, Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F5Concert Venues & Theatres10 Corso COMO Café – Lounge bar (with adjoiningrestaurant) located inside a vast complexdedicated to shopping and entertainment (art,fashion and design) founded in 1990 by thepublisher and gallerist Carla Sozzani. Open Mon6pm-1am; Tues-Fri 12pm-1am; Sat 11pm-2am; Sun11pm-1am. www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como,10. T: 02 29013581. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F1Alcatraz – Formerly an old car repair shop, thismulti-functional venue, extending over some 3,000sq.m., hosts international pop and rock concertsbut is also used as a facility for gala dinners, fashionshows and dance in the discotheque area.www.alcatrazmilano.com. Via Valtellina, 25.T: 02 69016352. M3 Maciachini. Off MapAntEO spaZIOCINEMa – An historic Milanesevenue (currently a multiplex cinema) and afavourite haunt of “auteur” film aficionados, ithosts festivals, outdoor screenings in summer,retrospectives, seminars and original languagescreenings. Other on-site facilities include theOsteria del Cinema restaurant and wine bar openthroughout the year. www.spaziocinema.info. ViaMilazzo, 9. T: 02 6597732. M2 Moscova. Map F2aUDItorIUM di MILaNO FondaZIONECaripLO – Inaugurated in October, 1999, theAuditorium is one of Milan’s premier concert halls(boasting a seating capacity of 1,400) and hometo the Giuseppe Verdi Symphonic Orchestra andMilan Chorus. It also acts as a venue for visitinginternational jazz acts, symphony concerts andchamber music. www.laverdi.org. Largo G. Mahler.T: 02 83389401. Off MapBLUE Note – A branch of the famous New York,Tokyo and Nagoya venues, this is the newtemple of Milanese jazz and features world-classperformers and big-names on the Internationalmusic scene. True to tradition, it hosts twoshows a night (at 9pm and 11.30pm, with diningoption). Tickets only valid for one show. www.bluenotemilano.it. Via P. Borsieri, 37. T: 02 69016888.M3 Zara. Off MapGIUseppe VerDI MUSIC CONSERVatORY –Founded in 1808, this Conservatory is anotherof Milan’s most illustrious venues for classicalconcerts and also offers a wide range of coursesand cultural activities (masterclasses, seminars,performances, etc.). Many famous Italianmusicians studied here – although oddly enough,the young Giuseppe Verdi was rejected. Thereare two concert halls: the smaller Sala Puccinifor chamber music and the bigger Sala Verdi forsymphonic and choral music. www.consmilano.it.Via Conservatorio, 12. T: 02 7621101. M1 San Babila.Map H5MagaZZINI GENEraLI – A former, early 20thcentury warehouse, the club is located on twolevels. Its main floor, extending over a 1000 sq.m.area, features a bar, a dance floor and a stage.It hosts gigs, DJ sets directly from London raveparties and concerts dedicated mainly to avantgardesounds from the electro-pop world. Openon Wed (free entrance), Fri and Sat (admissionaround €20 ). www.magazzinigenerali.it. ViaPietrasanta, 14. T: 02 5393948. Off MapPiccolo Teatro di MILaNO/tEatro StrehLEr– Founded in 1947 by director, Giorgio Strehlerand impresario, Paolo Grassi, it was the firstItalian Rep Theatre Company to offer a “mixed”repertoire (international and Italian). Over the past60 years it has produced over 280 performancesby playwrights of the calibre of Shakespeare,Goldoni, Brecht, Cechov, Pirandello and Goethe.www.piccoloteatro.org. Largo M. Greppi, 1.T: 848 800304. M2 Lanza. Map E3SaLUMEria della MusICa (LA) – This old industrialwarehouse was listed among the 100 best jazzclubs in the world by the prestigious Americanmagazine, Down Beat. Over the years, it has hostedinternational star performers like Norah Jones andPat Metheny, but also rock, pop and soul concertsand cabaret acts. www.lasalumeriadellamusica.com.Via A. Pasinetti, 2. T: 02 56807350. Off MapScimmie – An historic concert venue in the NaviglioPavese district. Though formerly only cateringto jazz, it now also offers a variety of concertsfeaturing different types of musical genresperformed by emerging Italian talents or famousInternational stars. Drinks are available at the barand club restaurant. It also has an outdoor spacein summer. www.scimmie.it. Via A. Sforza, 49.T: 02 89402874. Off MapPalaZZINa LIBErty – Former headquarters ofMilan’s huge fruit and vegetable market and asplendid example of Milanese Art Noveau, it waslater restructured and used as a facility for variousrecreational-cultural activities. Owned by Milan’smunicipality, it is currently home to the CivicaOrchestra and is a setting for concerts and events.Largo Marinai d’Italia, 1. T: 02 72004711. Off MapTeatro aLLa Scala – For over two centures, ahallowed temple of Milanese music and opera.64 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

EntertainmentDesigned by Giuseppe Piermarini and inauguratedin 1778, it was recently totally refurbished underthe supervision of the renowned architect, MarioBotta. Today the theatre is recognized as oneof the leading opera and ballet theatres in theworld and offers seasonal events including choraland orchestral works. Out-of-season events arealso often organized by private institutions andfoundations. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza dellaScala (Ticket Office Via Filodrammatici, 2).T: 02 88791. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4tEatro Dal VerME – Inaugurated in 1872,it was formerly primarily used for plays andopera performances. Recently refurbishedand restructured (its auditorium boasts aseating capacity of 1,436) it now belongs to theMunicipality and the Province of Milan and is avenue for concerts, plays and dance performancesas well as exhibitions and conferences. www.dalverme.org. Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 2.T: 02 87905. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli.Map E4TAM/tEatro degli ArCIMBOLDI – Inauguratedin 2002, for three years it acted as Milan’s mainopera venue while the historic Teatro alla Scalawas being restored and restructured. Boastinga seating capacity of 2,400, it currently hosts avariety of concerts ranging from classical musicto rock and pop but also festivals, performancesand TV shows. www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Vialedell’Innovazione, 1. T: 02 641142200. Off MapTeatro della LUNa – The first Italian theatredesigned exclusively for international musicals andtheir imposing stage sets. Located on the outskirtsof Milan (next to the Mediolanum Forum), it hasan 800 sq.m. stage and is designed to hold up to1,730 spectators. www.teatrodellaluna.com. Via G.Di Vittorio, 6 - Assago (MI). T: 199 128800. Shuttle busfrom M2 Famagosta. Off MapTeatro dell’Arte/Crt – Built in 1933, it is a part ofthe architectural complex of Milan’s Palazzo dell’Arte(better known as the Triennale) and has been used,since 1983, by CRT (Theatre Research Centre). Themost important avant-garde theatre in Milan forexperimental theatre and contemporary dance, itboasts 800 seats.www.teatrocrt.it. Via E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 881298. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D4Teatro Litta – Found inside the aristocratic, 17thcentury Arese-Litta palazzo, this is the oldest theatrein Milan. In addition to the magnificent auditorium(with a 202 seating capacity) it has a large foyer andan elegant bar (with wi-fi spot). It is used for plays,concerts and hosts the international “Connections”project. www.teatrolitta.it. Corso Magenta, 24. T: 028055882. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map E5MarketsFIEra DI SINIGAGLIA – Established at the beginningof the 19th century, this is a truly Milanese institution.The only “flea market” in Milan, it is held once aweek and attracts a varied public ranging fromcollectors to bargain hunters. It boasts a vast array ofstalls offering a number of artisan objects, old LPs,military uniforms, vintage or second-hand clothing,objets d’art, junk, ethnic items, old and new books,picture frames, china, glass, silver, jewellery and oldfashionedtoys, coins and much more besides. OpenSat 8am-6pm. Alzaia Naviglio Grande corner of viaValenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map C5-D5ANTIQUE MarKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date forcollectors the world over, it is held on the banksof the picturesque Naviglio Grande. With overfour hundred stallholders, you can find all kinds ofantiques: furniture, clocks and watches, china, silver,jewellery, dolls, toys, books, glasses, radios, walkingsticks, bronze objects, glass, comic books, prints,books and cameras. It also offers modern objet d’art,ethnic antiques and a number of other odditiesand bric-a-brac. All the shops and restaurants in thearea stay open while the market is on. Last Sundayof every month, 9am-6pm. Naviglio Grande, fromthe Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 PortaGenova FS. Map C5-D5MERCatINO FILatELICO – Located in the heart ofMilan, just a short distance from the Duomo, stampand coin collectors will have a field day at this historicmarket. The third largest in Europe, it offers an arrayof items including everything related to postalhistory (postcards, stamped envelopes and signedletters), medallions of saints, medals, badges, toyTO STAY IN TOUCH WITH MILAN,SUBSCRIBETO OUR COMPLETELY FREEONLINE NEWSLETTERFROM THE EDITORSOF WHERE MAGAZINEWHEREMILAN.COMwww.wheretraveler.com 65

GolfItaly boasts a number of fabulous golf courses,several of which can be accessed by car in justhalf an hour from the centre of Milan.- GOLf CLUB MONtICELLO (36 holes) locatedin Cassina Rizzardi (CO), host to several ItalianOpens (T: 031 928055; www.gesgolf.it)- CirCOLO Golf BOGOGNO (36 holes) locatedin Bogogno (NO), open throughout the yearand set against the magnificent backdropof Monte Rosa (T: 0322.863.794; www.golfbogogno.com)- CastELLO di TolcinasCO GOLf &Country CLUB (27 holes) in PieveEmanuele (MI), an exclusive golf club builtaround an old 16th century castle (T: 0290428035; www.golftolcinasco.it).- GOLf CLUB MILaNO (27 holes) set within theParco Reale di Monza (MB), Golf Club Milanowas founded in 1928 and won the CONI“Gold Star” award for sporting achievements(T: 039 303081; www.golfclubmilano.it).- GOLf CLUB AmbrosiaNO (18 holes) locatedin Bubbiano (MI), a “Kosaido EuropeanTour” associate (T: 02 90840820, www.golfclubambrosiano.com).- GOLf CLUB Le Rovedine (18 holes) locatedin Noverasco di Opera (MI), just 8 kilometresfrom Piazza del Duomo (T: 02 57606420,www.rovedine.com).- MOLINEtto COUNtry CLUB (18 holes)located in Cernusco sul Naviglio (MI), on-sitefacilities include a swimming pool, restaurantand 14 tennis courts (T: 02 92105128; www.molinettocountryclub.it).Just a little further out of town:- GOLf Crema Resort (27 holes) in Crema(CR), situated 40 minutes from the airports ofLinate and Orio al Serio (T: 0373 231357; www.golfcremaresort.com).- GOLf CLUB BergaMO L’aLBENZa (27holes) located in Almenno San Bartolomeo(BG), seat of Professional internationaltournaments (T: 035 640028; www.golfbergamo.it.)- Chervò GOLf San VIGILIO (27 holes)located in Pozzolengo (BS), resort withresidence, hotel, spa and wellness centre (T:030 91801; www.chervogolfsanvigilio.it).- Gardagolf COUNtry CLUB (27 holes)located in Soiano del Lago (BS), situated justa short distance from Lake Garda (T: 0365674707; www.gardagolf.it).- GOLf CLUB Le Robinie (18 holes) located inSolbiate Olona (VA), an oasis of tranquillitywith resort situated just 15 minutes fromMalpensa airport (T: 0331 329260; www.lerobinie.com).- GOLf dei Laghi (18 holes) located inTravedona Monate (VA), set amidst thehills and woods between Lake Maggiore,Varese and Monate (T: 0332 978101; www.golfdeilaghi.it).- GOLf CLUB Varese (18 holes) locatedin Luvinate (VA). Founded in 1934, thischallenging course offers scenic views ofincomparable panoramic beauty (T: 0332229302; www.golfclubvarese.it).- La PinetINa GOLf CLUB (18 holes) locatedin Appiano Gentile (CO), set within 4,800hectares of magnificent pine forests inthe Parco Pineta (T: 031 933202; www.golfpinetina.it).soldiers, pocket and other watches, old figurines,period comic books, prints, etc. Prices comparableto those of other collectors’ markets. Open on Sunand weekdays from 8am to 12.30am. Via Armorari,Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1-M3Duomo; M1 Cordusio. Map F5VIALE PAPINIANO MARKET – The viale Papinianomarket is the largest in Milan and is held twice aweek. It is famous for fashion, including vintageclothing, shoes and accessories of all kinds. Italso has an array of great food stalls, fabrics andhaberdashery as well as a number of “hard-tofind”items for the home. Open Tues 8am-2pm;Sat 8am-5pm. Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino.Map C6-D6NightlifeEntertainmentARMANI/prIVÉ – Elegant and selective, this is afavourite Milanese haunt with VIPs, models andaesthetes of all ages. Its fabulous cosmopolitanatmosphere is the perfect place for a drink or a spinon the dance floor to the sounds of seductive DJsets. Make sure to call ahead to get a table. OpenWed-Thurs 11.30pm-2.30am; Fri-Sat 11.30pm-3am.www.armaninobu.it. Via A. Manzoni, 31.T: 02 62312655. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4BEACH (thE) – A Disco & Restaurant situated onthe outskirts of the city. The perfect place toescape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Itswhite décor, its wooden dance floor resemblingthose found in pleasure-craft and its green lawnilluminated by soft lights make it a reference pointof the Milanese movida, not only in summer. Timesvary depending on the night of the week. OpenFri-Sun from 9pm to 4am. www.thebeachmilano.com. Via A. Corelli, 62.T: 02 70201011. Off MapCafé ATLANTIQUE – Located in an historicvenue, this cool combo of disco and restaurantis renowned for its stellar interior. Favoured bythe Milanese business crowd and celeb VIPs, it isknown for the organization of important corporateevents. Times vary depending on the night of theweek. Open Fri-Sat from 11pm to 4am.www.cafeatlantique.it. Viale Umbria, 42.T:199 111111. M3 Lodi. Off MapJUst CAVALLI HOLLYWOOD – Dinner-club ownedby Roberto Cavalli, a designer of world-renownedfame. A Milanese hot spot for beautiful people, thiselegant club, with its ultra-innovative, glamorousinterior, is located inside Parco Sempione, one ofthe green lungs of the city. A fabulous locationwhere you can drink, dine and dance till thesmall hours of the morning. A chic haven forVIPs and fashionistas. Aperitivo, dinner andafter dinner every day from 8pm to 3am.www.justcavallihollywood.it. Via L. Camoens atthe Torre Branca. T: 02 311817. M1-M2 Cadorna FN.Map D3GattOparDO Café (IL) – A unique venue, locatedin a 19th century church that was deconsecratedin the ‘70’s. Sometimes used as a setting for films,its name is a tribute to the masterpiece by Viscontiand still exudes a feeling of opulent elegance.Open Thurs-Sat 6pm-5am and Tues, Wed, Sunfrom 6pm to 1am. www.ilgattopardocafe.it.Via P. della Francesca, 47. T: 02 34537699. Map B1G LOUNGE – An evocative location that still bearswitness to its past as the first billiards hall in Milan.Often used as a setting for commercials, this is theperfect place for fabulous parties. Open Mon-Sat7.30am-3am. www.glounge.it. Via Larga, 8.T: 02 8053042. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5OLD FASHION Café – An historic Milanese locationlying adjacent to Parco Sempione and Milan’sTriennale. Aperitivi and dinner are served outsidein summer or inside in winter. Things reallystart buzzing after midnight when the dancefloor becomes crowded with entrepreneurs,supermodels and VIPs. Dinner from 8.30pm to11.30pm. Disco till 3am. Closed on Tues and Thurs.www.oldfashion.it. Viale Alemagna, 6.T: 02 8056231. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4SportArENa CIVICa “GiaNNI Brera” – An historicsports facility inaugurated in 1807 named after afamous sports journalist. It has a playing field forfootball/rugby and American football games and asynthetic track for athletics (from 400 metres with8 lanes). Open Mon-Fri 9am-noon; 3pm-8pm.www.comune.milano.it. Viale G. Byron, 2.T: 02 341924. M2 Lanza. Map E3AutODrOMO NaZIONaLE di MONZa – A legendaryracetrack, also known as the “Cathedral of Speed”,for both car and motorcycle racing. Located insidethe Parco di Monza, the racetrack measures 5,793metres and has been home to the F1 Italian GranPrix since 1922. A traditional destination for tourists(it can be visited by car, motorbike or bicycle), onselected dates it allows visitors to drive their owncars on the historic track for a reasonable price.Safety driving courses also held by professionalinstructors. Open 7.30am-7.30pm. www.monzanet.it. Via Vedano, 5 - Monza (MB). T: 039 24821. Ferroviedello Stato and Ferrovie Nord Milano. off mapCENtro SportIVO LIDO e PalaLIDO – A multifunctionalsports centres extending over 20,000square metres with five-a-side football pitches,tennis courts, basket ball courts, rollerblading, minigolfand an Olympic-sized outdoor swimmingpool. The complex encompasses the Palalido(entrance in Piazzale Stuparich, 1), a sports stadium,boasting a 3,800 seating capacity, which hostsbasket ball and volley ball matches. Open Mon-Fri9am-11pm. www.comune.milano.it. Piazzale Lotto,15. T: 02 392791. M1 Lotto. Off mapCENtro Sportivo KENNEDY – A city temple ofbaseball, in addition to housing the legendarybaseball “diamond”, this multi-functionalcomplex has 8 tennis, softball, basketball andvolleyball courts, grass hockey and mini-golf.Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 9am-8pm.www.centrosportivokennedy.it. Via A. Olivieri, 15.T: 02 48926212. M1 Bisceglie. off mapIdropark IdroscaLO – A vast green-blue lungsituated on the outskirts of the city, it comprises ahuge park, half of which is occupied by an artificiallake. The Idroscalo hosts international canoeing,kayak, water skiing, triathlon and swimmingcompetitions and offers a number of outdooractivities during the summer months, includingconcerts such as the famous “Gods of Metal” and“Evolution” Festival. Open Mon-Sun 7am-5pm.66 WHERE City Name I MOnth Year

Entertainmentwww.idroscalo.info. Via Circonvallazione, Segrate(MI). T: 02 70200902. Off mapIppODrOMO di MILaNO – For over one century,this national monument has represented one ofthe most prestigious horse racing tracks in theworld. Located just a short distance from theMeazza Stadium, it holds horse racing meets (fromMarch to November, Wed, Sat and Fri), harnessracing(throughout the year, except in August, onTues, Thurs and Fri) and night racing (June andJuly). www.ippodromimilano.it. Piazzale delloSport. T: 02 482161. M1 Lotto. off mapMEDIOLaNUM ForUM (Assago) – Extendingover a covered area of 40,000 sq.m., on 4 floors,it includes a multi-functional centre for 25 sportsdisciplines: bowling and squash, a permanent icerink, 2 swimming pools and a central arena forbasketball, volleyball, cycling, tennis and riding, butalso concerts, performances and television events.www.forumnet.it. Via G. Di Vittorio, 6 - Assago (MI).T: 199128800. Shuttle bus from M2 Famagosta.Off MapPalasharp – Since 1986, this multi-functionaltensile structure, boasting a seating capacityof 9,000, has hosted several of the city’s mostimportant events ranging from Frank Sinatra’sconcert to a symposium with the Dalai Lama.Currently the seat of sports events, musicals, circusand ice performances, congresses, competitionsand conventions. www.palasharp.it. Via A. Sant’Elia,33. T: 02 33400551. M1 Lampugnano.off mapStaDIO del Ghiaccio Agorà – This is the largestcomplex in Milan for ice sports ranging fromice hockey to skating. Home to national andinternational events, it organizes skating courses,athletic preparation and classic/modern ballet anddance courses. Open to the public Fri 10.30am-0.30pm; Sat 3pm-6pm/9.30pm-0.30pm; Sun10am-noon/3pm-6pm (closed in July and August).www.stadioghiaccio.it. Via dei Ciclamini, 23. T: 0248300946. M1 Primaticcio, M1 Inganni.off mapVelodrOMO Maspes VigorELLI – Inauguratedin 1935, this is one of the most famous velodromesin the world. Following important restructuringworks, it was transformed into a multi-functionalcomplex boasting a indoor seating capacity of7,500. It hosts cycling competitions, Americanfootball games and events such as concerts,fashion shows and various performances. www.vigorelli.org. Via Arona, 19. T: 02 33104970. Map B2WellnessACCADEMIA DEL BELL’EssERE PAOLO GUatELLI– Over 1000 sq.m. of wellbeing, a holistic centrefor the rejuvenation of body and mind. Bell’Essereis a city spa and image studio created by theinternational make-up designer Paolo Guatelli,offering beauty treatments and make-up sessions.Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm. Sun by appointmentonly. www.accademiadelbellessere.it.Via Mecenate, 76/24. T: 02 5098701. off mapaQUae Calidae – Right in the heart of town, aday spa that conjures up the Roman baths in amodern-day key. The perfect place to take a break,it offers a variety of treatments for the mind, bodyand soul, including marine scrubs and massagesusing ancient Roman techniques such as the“X-bioage cationic resin mask”. Open Sat-Sun 11am-8pm. www.aquaecalidae.it. Via Santa Sofia, 14.T: 02 58430269. M3 Crocetta. Map F6AtOMIC Spa Suisse – Futuristic cosmetictreatments, using chromatic light and ultrasound,and exclusive products whose ingredients includechampagne, rose petals and pure gold. A part ofthe fabulous Boscolo Exedra Hotel in Milan, it hasbeen described as “a work capable of touching theemotions”. It has treatment cabins, sauna, Turkishbath, large swimming pool with hydro massagejets and a relaxation area. Open daily from 10am to8pm. www.spasuisse.com. Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6.T: 02 22229702. M1 San Babila. Map G4BEUNIQUE – This first BeUnique centre, opened inJune, 2010, is a ultra-new concept and the perfectspot for those in search of technology at theservice of wellbeing. BeUnique prides itself on theongoing search for cutting-edge methodologiesin face and body treatments. By appointment only.Open: Mon-Sat 9am-8pm. www.beuniquemilano.it. Via M. Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 39663676. M3 Missori.Map f5BULGari Resort – Set within a large park,in the heart of Brera, between La Scala andvia Montenapoleone, it is located within theeponymous hotel. In keeping with contemporarywellness rituals, it offers a sumptuous, elegantsetting featuring a Turkish bath, swimming pooland relaxation area. A full range of treatmentsalways on offer. You can prolong this headyexperience by finishing the day with an aperitivo inthe garden. www.bulgarihotels.com.Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7/b. T: 02 8058051.M3 Montenapoleone. Map GFCULti – Luxury is moulded to suit individual needsin this highly sophisticated spa based on awinning idea by Alessandro Agrati. It offers a vastrange of revolutionary therapies ranging froma mani-pedi suite to vasodilatory treatments onwater-heated stone beds. An absolute “must”is the Relax lounge where, amidst plants andtealights, customers can sip herbal infusions. Italso offers numerous treatments for men andsells the famous body and home perfumescarrying the Culti trademark. Open Tues-Fri 9am-9pm; Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. www.cultidayspa.it. ViaA. Mauri, 5. T: 02 48517588. M1 Pagano. Map B5Downtown PaLEstre – This club, patronized bycelebrities and models, boasts a contemporary,dynamic atmosphere. A fully equipped gym,water space and fabulous comfort area: Turkishbath, Scottish shower, aromarium and spa. Alltypes of treatments are available. Day passescan also be booked on the website. www.downtownpalestre.it. Open Mon-Fri 7ammidnight;Sat-Sun 10am-2am. Two locations:Piazza Cavour, 2. T: 02 76317233. Map G3. M3Turati, M3 Montenapoleone; Via Gonzaga, 2. T: 0286311840. M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Missori. Map F5SPOTLIGHT“How About a Quick Putt?”Milan’s outlying areas offer a wide array of sunny,scenic golf courses that are definitely worth avisit. However, if you are pressed for time, with aconvention, a meeting and a business dinner, wehave the perfect solution for you. Milan offers thefirst, centrally situated, indoor golf course. It is calledITSGOLF and is located just a short distance fromthe vibrant and fashionable Arco della Pace district,a favourite Milanese aperitivo spot. Open daily from10am to 11pm, it has six rooms with simulatorsto enable you to indulge in your passion withoutwasting too much time. It includes a “ITSGOLF Café”for breakfast, snacks and dinner. Via Domodossola,9. T: 02 36630500. Map B2www.wheretraveler.com 67

EntertainmentGetFIT City CLUB – An oasis of tranquillity just astone’s throw from the Duomo (but it also hasother locations), offering exclusive services and asophisticated ambiance. A day pass will give youaccess to the crystal-clear swimming pool, thegym equipped with all the latest cutting-edgetechnology, a thermarium with sauna, Turkishbath, Thalasso bath, hydro massage and tropicalshower, wellness centre. Mon-Fri 7am-10.30pm;Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.getfit.it. Via Falcone, 5.T: 02 94435063. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Healthy CENter Day Spa & StUDIO – Asmall retreat in the centre of town, for those insearch of a made-to-measure spa experience.Access to the spa includes an hour and a half ofThalasso therapy, Kneipp spa treatment, sauna,Turkish bath and thermal showers. Massagesby appointment only. Experts, including anosteopath, are available to draw up personalexercise charts. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.hcdayspa.it. PiazzaPio XI, 1. T: 02 8692145. M1-M3 Duomo. Map E5MoresKO HaMMam Café – A corner of Istanbultransplanted in Milan. It offers an aperitivo withmassage included. Customers not only cantaste typical foods and beverages but also learnhow to belly dance. Separate hammam for menand women. Reservations necessary. www.moresko.it. Via Rubens, 19. T: 02 4046936. M1Gambara. off mapSkorpION – An exclusive gym located in SanBabila, featuring a fitness centre, fully equippedSPOTLIGHTgym, two underground swimming pools (onefor swimming the other for acquagym) anda pool with hydro massage jets. Day passesavailable for use of all facilities from the earlymorning onwards. Various activities alsoavailable for children. Kneipp spa treatments inthe locker rooms. www.skorpioncenter.it. Mon-Fri 7.30am-9.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. CorsoVittorio Emanuele II, 24. M1 San Babila. Map G5Spa PrINCIpe di SaVOIa – Ultra-luxurious spaand gym with a magnificent panoramic viewover the whole of Milan. Located on the topfloor of this prestigious hotel, it is necessary tobook a treatment or a package with a choicebetween massages, face and body treatments,in one of the beautifully furnished treatmentand massage rooms. The pool area, extendingover 150 sq.m., with its heated swimmingpool, sauna, hydro massage and Turkishbath, will offer you unforgettable momentsof relaxation, together with the terrace andoutdoor solarium. Open Mon-Sun 7am-10pm.www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com. Piazza dellaRepubblica, 17. T: 02 62301. M3 Repubblica.Map G2The Templeof FootballNamed after the famousMilanese footballer GiuseppeMeazza, the GiuseppeMeazza Stadium (San Siro)is the largest stadium in Italyand the third in Europe. Allseats are covered in thisthree-tiered structure which has a capacity of 80,074 and isthe home stadium of two of the three most successful ItalianFootball League clubs: A.C. Milan and F.C. Internazionale (Inter).It also has a gift shop and a museum displaying all kinds ofhistoric items from both Milan’s and Inter’s past: old jerseys,photos, boots, tickets and a fabulous trophy case. However,even better than the museum is the guided stadium tourwhich gives you a chance to sit in VIP seats and visit eachof the home teams’ locker rooms. In summer it also hostsimportant concerts. www.sansiro.net. Via dei Piccolomini, 5.T: 02 48713713. M1 Lotto.TerMEMILaNO – Opened in 2006, against thebackdrop of the 16th century walls erected byFerrante Gonzaga, this prestigious Spa offersvisitors a marvellous oasis of relaxation in theheart of the city. Located in a large, Liberty-stylebuilding, in the elegant Porta Romana district,it combines history and architecture with themost cutting-edge technologies to offer a multisensoryexperience boasting over 30 wellnesstreatments. Children under 14 are not admitted.Open: Sun-Thurs 10am-10pm. Fri-Sat 10am-11pm.www.termemilano.com. Piazzale Medaglie d’Oro,2 corner of via Filippetti. T: 02 55199367. M3 PortaRomana. Map H7Wine BarsBarrIQUE Wine Bar (LE) – Set in the elegantBrera district, it offers a truly interesting wine list.The cellar stocks a vast selection of Italian winesbut also good international varieties. On offer anarray of cold dishes with platters of mixed coldcuts and Italian cheeses. Closed on Sat at lunchand on Sun. Via Anfiteatro, 12. T: 02 80509260.M2 Lanza. Map E3Cadenhead’s WhisKY Bar – A Whisky bar whereyou can taste or purchase as many as 3,000different labels. Also up for tasting are differenttypes of rum, gin, port, sherry and champagne.An array of spirits that have been collectedover a period of fifty years with a prevalence ofScottish products. Open Mon 3.30pm-midnight;Tues-Sat 10am-0pm. www.cadenhead.it.Via Poliziano, 3. T: 02 33605592. Map C1ENOteca Cantine IsOLa – An unusual venuewhere wine and poetry are celebrated intandem. One of the first places to offer winetastings and also one of the few that importsGerman (it offers a selection of lables from 77exceptional vintners) and Cypriot wines. Onoffer everyday are great aperitivi featuringsome of the best wines in the world. Every firstweek of the month clients can savour a glass of“superlative wine” while Tuesdays are given overto poetry readings. Closed on Mon. Via P. Sarpi,30. T: 02 3315249. Map D2ENOtECa N’OMBra de vin – Nestling in one ofMilan’s most romantic areas, right next to themagnificent San Marco Church in Brera, thiswine shop, inaugurated in 1973, offers Italianand international wines and also boasts a wideselection of oils, spirits and liqueurs. The shop,which is also a wine bar, is open throughout theday from 9 in the morning to 1am. Closed onSun. www.nombradevin.it. Via San Marco, 2. T: 026599650. M2 Lanza. Map F3NottINGham Forest – It is instantly apparentwhy this venue, inaugurated in 2008, was voted“Best Bar in the World” by Class Magazine,London: its cocktails, a mixture of oriental,Caribbean and African ingredients, are bothexotic and original. Try drinks featuring driedants from the Amazonia area or gold or pearldust presented in shells. Absolutely ingenious.www.nottingham-forest.com. Viale Piave, 1.T: 02 798311. M1 Palestro. Map H4VINICOLa RotONDI – In the heart of the Isoladistrict, this wine bar is one of Milan’s mosthistoric. Young hopefuls who have subsequentlybecome famous have raised their glasses tosuccess here. It offers an old-world atmosphereand shelves stocked with fine wines. Excellentvalue for money and an array of superb Italianand international labels. Closed on Sun.www.vinicolarotondi.com. Piazzale Lagosta, 2.T: 02 6684293. M3 Zara. off map68 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

ProediComunicazioneAiroloA taste of Switzerland near MilanNestling at the foot of San Gottardo, 30 kilometres of skislopes for both amateurs and professionals: championswho enjoy a challenge and families in search of fun.From 4 December (weekends only) and from 18December, seven days a week, come and discover therich array of facilities offered by the largest ski resortin Switzerland’s Canton Ticino: two ski lifts, three chairlifts, ski slopes, snow racquet trails and a snowpark,ultra-modern infrastructure and breathtaking scenery.Located just an hour and a half from the centre of Milanat an altitude of between 1175 and 2256 metres.The ski resort of Airolo-Pesciüm is situated just 200 metresfrom the motorway exit of Airolo.From Milan: A9 autostrada Chiasso – A2 San Gottardoand exit at Airolo.www.airolo.ch/funivie ~ tel: +41 91 873 80 40

Museums & AttractionsA TreasureTroveof BeautyLocated in the heart ofMilan, Museo BagattiValsecchi is one of thebest preserved housemuseums in Europe(see p.72). Its evocativerooms containprecious Renaissancecollections: paintings,sculptures, weaponsand armour, ceramics,jewellery and tapestries.Currently on exhibit"Glass Artists andDesigners, 1960-2010.The Bellini-PezzoliCollection" (see p.15).www.museobagattivalsecchi.org. Via Santo Spirito 10/Via Gesù, 5. T: 02 76006132/76014857For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comMonuments & Places of InterestDUOMO – Among one of the most important(and majestic) Gothic buildings in the world, thechurch, constructed on and off over a period of450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan.Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedralis divided by soaring pillars into five naves, thelargest of which measures 45 metres in height.It has 135 spires and its inside columns measure3 and a half metres in diameter. To experiencethe Duomo at its most majestic you mustascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps)where you will be surrounded by an outburstof pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and,naturally, the city’s famed golden Madonnina.The cathedral is open daily 8.30am-6.45pm.Admission free. Guided visit in English everySaturday 10am (including Cathedral, Baptisteryand Cathedral rooftops by lift) €20. Info point viaArcivescovado, 1 (open 9am-noon/1pm-6pm).www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo.T: 02 72023375. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Brera – Home, since 1776, to an importantAcademy of Fine Arts, this is an artsyneighbourhood which really comes to life atnight. In addition to several churches, the districtalso hosts a number of interesting galleries andantique shops. One of the areas in the city isparticularly known for its nightlife. Pubs, windowdisplays, stalls and quaint fortune tellers meldwith important places of culture. For museums inBrera, see “Entertainment” section. Via Brera andsurrounding areas. M2 Lanza. Map E3-F3CASTELLO SFOrzeSCO – The ancient seat of theruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by FrancescoSforza and is now simply know by the Milaneseas “Il Castello”. Demolished and reconstructedseveral times from 1300 onwards, it has servedas the backdrop for numerous historic events.Today, it houses a number of interestingmuseums and libraries. Its park is a favouritewith old and young alike. Castle: open daily7am-6pm. Free admission. Castle Museums:Tues through Sunday 9am-5.30pm. Full ticket €3.www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello, 1.T: 02 88463700. M1-M2 Cadorna FN; M1 Cairoli;M2 Lanza. Map E4CenaCOLO – One of the most famous attractionsin the world, “L’Ultima Cena” or “Cenacolo” byLeonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large muralpainting representing the scene of the lastsupper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can befound in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.Tues to Sun 8.15am-7pm. English guided tour9.30am and 3.30pm. Reservation compulsory.where magazine is circulated throughout the world and covers all major cities. To learn more visit www.wheretraveler.comFull ticket €6.50. www.cenacolovinciano.net.Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360.M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione. Map D4Cimitero monumentale (mOnumentalCemetery) – A real outdoor museum catering,on the one hand, to the whims of the elite ofMilan’s society and, on the other, to works of artby famous sculptors of various eras. Among thenotables buried here are Alessandro Manzoni andArturo Toscanini. Open Tues-Sun from 8am-6pm.Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale. T: 02 88465600.M2 Garibaldi FS. Map D1-E1GALLeria – Sometimes known as “the living-roomof the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade,housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops,is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautifulglass cupola and measures 196 metres in length.Tradition has it that placing your right heel onthe bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, andthen spinning around inside it, will bring goodluck. Piazza Duomo-Piazza della Scala. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5GiUSeppe Meazza Stadium (also known as SanSiro) – The famous Milan football stadium, hometo Inter and AC Milan, was inaugurated in 1926. Itwas completely renovated in 1990. For stadiumevents, see section on “Entertainment”. www.sansiro.net. Via dei Piccolomini, 5. T: 02 4042432.M1 Lotto. OFF mapphoto © MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI70 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

Museums & AttractionsGuidelinesThis directory, grouped by category, is a listof establishments recommended by theeditors of Where Magazine and includes regularadvertisers.MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in bold at the end ofeach listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinateson the street maps on pages 78-79.INFORMATIONPlaces like the Duomo or the Last Supper aresymbols of Milan, hence our decision to list themunder a separate category.Museums displaying the red symbol arethose entitling AmaMi Card holderseither to free entrance or a discount onexhibitions. More information aboutAmaMi Card (where to buy it, how to useit and advantages) can be found on page 77 under“Essentials”.Navigli – The “Navigli” are artificial canals built800 years ago to ferry people and merchandiseto Milan, to irrigate the fields and to defend thecity. The network of canals was perfected in 1457by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area, burstingwith trendy dining and nightlife spots, is one ofthe main hubs of the Milanese movida. M2 PortaGenova FS. Map D7-E7“PireLLOne” – Designed by the famous architect,Gio Ponti, it was inaugurated in 1960. Standing127.10 metres tall, until a few years ago, the Pirelli“skyscraper” was the highest building in Milan.Although today, even higher buildings are goingup, the “Pirellone” (i.e. “big Pirelli”) still remainsone of the symbols of the city. Open to visitson Saturday. Booking required. www.regione.lombardia.it. Piazza Duca d’Aosta. T: 02 45487400.M2-M3 Centrale FS. Map F1.Sant’Ambrogio – One of the most ancientchurches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose(patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an areawhere numerous martyrs had been buried. Thechurch is a wonderful example of Romanesquestyle. Open daily 9.30am-12.30am/2.30pm-6pm (Sun 3pm-pm). Admission free. www.santambrogio-basilica.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio,15. T: 02 86450895 (10am-noon/4pm-6 pm).M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5MuseumsAcQUariO di Milano –Housed in a splendid Liberty-style building, it isone of the largest and oldest of its kind in Italy.Established in 1906 and restructured in 2006, ithosts 36 gigantic pools filled with more than 100species of fish, living in recreated environmentsranging from the Amazon to the Mediterranean.The main focus of the pools is more towardsnative Italian fish, both fresh and saltwater, andplenty of exotic sea life from other continents.The aquarium hosts events whole suitable for thefamily and the library is one of the most importantresources for marine biology and oceanic studiesin Italy. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm.www.acquariocivicomilano.eu. Viale G. Gadio, 2.T: 02 88465750. M2 Lanza. Map E4AMBROSiana PICTUre GALLery – The“Ambrosiana” contains several exquisite worksof art from the 15th through 17th centuries andincludes “The musician”, attributed to Leonardo,Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens”fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of fruit”. TheAmbrosiana will be exhibiting Leonardo’s entire“Codice Atlantico” (Atlantic Codex) until 2015, 44or 45 pages at a time for three months at a stretch– the longest the International archival norms willallow such documents to be exposed to light.Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for grouptickets. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2.T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5BOSChi DI STEFanO HOuse MUSEUM – Onceinhabited by the married couple Antonio Boschiand Marieda Di Stefano, the Boschi Di StefanoHouse Museum has been open to the publicsince February 2003. The collection–paintings,SPOTLIGHTsculptures and drawings – is an extraordinarytestimony to the history of Twentieth CenturyItalian art. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Freeadmission. www.fondazioneboschidistefano.it.Via G. Jan, 15. T: 02 74281000. M1 Lima. OFF mapCiviC ARChaeOLOgiCAL MUSEUM –Found in the cloister of an old monastery – theMonastero Maggiore di San Maurizio – datingback to the 8th century A.D., it houses Greek,Etruscan, Roman and medieval works of art(the Dark Ages section is temporarily closed).Conversely, prehistoric and Egyptian art arehoused in the Castello Sforzesco. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €2.www.comune.milano.it. Corso Magenta, 15. T: 0286450011. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli. Map E5CONTempOrary HISTOry MUSEUM – Heir to theformer “War Museum”, it exhibits material relatedto the two World Wars: paintings and sculpturesbut also memorabilia, banners, weapons, officialdocuments and private letters. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Free admission.www.museodimilano.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6.T: 02 88465933/76006964. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4FONDaziOne ARNALDO POMODORO – TheFoundation, which was established in 1995 andin 1997 officially recognized by the Ministryof Culture obtained definitive recognition asa museum from the Region of Lombardy in2007. According to its statute, the purposeof the Foundation is to guarantee correctinformation concerning all the works of theItalian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, and topromote detailed information regarding thefounder’s oeuvre, for both the general publicand as an educational tool for art schools. OpenWed-Sun 11am-7pm; Thu 11am-10pm. AdmissionSCALA (LA) – The world’s premier opera house,built at the behest of Empress Maria Teresaof Austria and designed by Piermarini, itwas inaugurated in 1778 with an opera byAntonio Salieri. For more information, also see“Entertainment”. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazzadella Scala. T: 02 72003744. Open daily 9am-6pm.Closed on November 1. M1-M3 Duomo; M3Montenapoleone. Map F4Stazione Centrale – The Central RailwayStation, the largest rail hub in Italy, is also animpressive work of architecture. Inaugurated in1931, it is characterized by an imposing whitestone facade. Platform 21 has a commemorativeplaque testifying to the deportation of the Jewsbetween 1943-44. Piazza Duca d’Aosta. M2-M3Centrale FS. Map H1The Last SupperOne of the most famous attractions in the world, “L’UltimaCena” or “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century largemural painting representing the scene of the last supper ofJesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church ofSanta Maria delle Grazie. Booking required: ask your concierge.www.cenacolovinciano.net.www.wheretraveler.com 71

Museums & AttractionsHouse Museums in MilanA cumulative Card isavailable for the fourhistoric house museums,all situated in the centre ofMilan (adults €15, reduced€10). The Museo BagattiValsecchi, the Boschi DiStefano House Museum,the Villa Necchi Campiglioand the Museo PoldiPezzoli (see also pages71, 72, 74) are fascinatingplaces that all have onething in common, namelythe generosity of theirfounders, who openedtheir homes and artcollections to the public.Visitors will have a chancefree the second Sunday of the month. www.fondazionearnaldopomodoro.it. Via Solari, 35.T: 02 89075394. M2 Sant’Agostino. Map c6FOndazione forma – Instituted by the historicItalian photographic agency “Contrasto”, in just5 years this multi-functional facility has becomea reference point for important photographicexhibitions. Open daily from 11am-9pm and till11pm on Thurs and Fri. www.formafoto.it. Piazza T. L.Caro. T: 02 89075420. M2 Porta Genova F2. off mapFOndazione prada – This is a space dedicatedto innovative projects by contemporary artists,established in 1993 by arts patron MiucciaPrada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli, headsof one of the most famous fashion brands inthe world. Home to installations and temporaryexhibitions, Prada’s mission is to make it a templeof “accessible culture” for the city. Opening timesand information vary according to the exhibitionson show. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via A.Fogazzaro, 36. OFF mapGALLeria D’ARTE MODerna –Boasting 2,700 paintings and 700 sculptures,this Galleria inaugurated in 1921 is above all a“nineteenth century museum” hosting mainlyItalian and French works of art. Set against thebeautifully elegant backdrop of the Villa Reale,with its magnificent English garden. Open daily9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Closed on Mondays. Freeadmission. www.comune.milano.it. Via Palestro,16. T: 02 76340809 (10am-noon/3pm-4pm).M1 Palestro, M3 Turati. Map G3to learn more about thepersonal stories and tastesof their owners – a reflectionof the evolution andtransformation of Milanesesociety.www.casemuseomilano.itVilla Necchi CampiglioVia Mozart, 14 – T: 02 76340121Open Wed to Sun from 10am to 6pmOn Tues open only to groups with reservationsFull price tickets €8.00www.fondoambiente.itGIANNI COmenCini MUSEUM OF Cinema –Set against the evocative backdrop of thehistoric Palazzo Dugnani, this inspiring journeythrough the magic of cinema allows you todiscover the secrets of motion pictures with allits multi-faceted cultural, historical and socialaspects. Contains memorabilia and importantdocumentation regarding the evolution ofcinema in Milan and the rest of the worldincluding film excerpts and equipment used bythe Lumière brothers and George Méliès. OpenFri, Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price €3. www.cinetecamilano.it. Via D. Manin, 2b. T: 02 6554977.M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. Map G3HISTOriC CiviC ARChiveS AND TrivULzianaLIBrary – Hosted inside the Castello Sforzesco.The library can be accessed to examineparchments, documents, records and prints.The Historic Archive preserves all the acts of theMunicipality of Milan and of the Duchy datingback as far as 1385. Open Mon-Fri 9am-noon/1.30pm-4.30pm. www.comune.milano.it. PiazzaCastello, 1. T: 02 88463694. M1 Cairoli. Map E4LEOnarDO DA VINCI NATIOnaL MUSEUMOF SCienCE AND TEChnOLOgy – Found in a16th century monastery, this is one of the mostimportant museums of science and technologyin the world. Its collections, featuring cars, aircraft,ships, scooters, trains, reconstructions of ancientworkshops for metalworking, clock-making rightthrough to electronics, textiles and astronomy,explore the relationship between men andmachines starting from the ingenious inventionsof the world famous Leonardo da Vinci who livedin Milan between 1482 and 1500. Open Wed,Thurs, Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays10am-6.30pm. Full ticket price €8 + Guided tourinside the Enrico Toti submarine €10.www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21.T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map C5MANZOni’S HOUSE – Former home of the author,Alessandro Manzoni, second in Italian literatureonly to Dante, he lived here for about sixty yearsuntil his tragic death in 1873. Beautifully restoredin the ‘70’s, its wonderful interior is still preservedwith all its original furnishings. The house alsoboasts a large library with over 30,000 books,including the complete works of Manzonihimself. Open Tues-Sun 9am-noon/2pm-4pm.Free admission. www.museodimilano.mi.it.Via G. Morone, 1. T: 02 86460403. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F4MILan MUSEUM – Dedicated to the urban andsocial development of Milan between the 17thand 18th centuries, at the beginning of March2010, the collection was enriched with collectionsof historic garments originating from the CastelloSforzesco’s Applied Arts Collection. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Free admission.www.museodimilano.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6.T: 02 88465933/76006964. M1 San Babila;M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4MUSEO BagaTTI VALSECChi – Located in the heartof Milan, this museum/house is one of the bestpreserved in Europe. Its evocative rooms houseprecious Renaissance collections: paintings,sculptures, weapons and armour, ceramics,jewellery and tapestries. Open Tues-Sun (exceptholidays) 1pm-5.45pm. Full price ticket €8 (€4 onWednesdays). www.museobagattivalsecchi.org.Via Santo Spirito 10/Via Gesù, 5.T: 02 76006132/76014857. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4MUSEO Dei POPOLI E DELLE CULTUre – ThePeoples and Cultures Museum, founded in 1910,is devoted to Oriental art and ethnographicobjects. On display, numerous objects linked tothe world of Asian religion, collected by Catholicmissionaries over the centuries. Open Mon-Fri9am-12.30am/2pm-6pm. Free admission. Via M.Bianchi, 94. T: 02 48009191. M1 Lotto. OFf mapMUSEO DEL CASTELLO SFOrzeSCO –Antique art, paintings, period furniture, sculpturesand musical instruments are housed in CastelloSforzesco’s precious treasure trove. The buildingalone is well worth a visit. Rooms 9, 10, 15, 23, 24not accessible to the disabled. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm (admission until 5pm), closed on Mondays(holidays included). Full price ticket €3. Freeadmittance: every day except Fri after 4.30pm; Fri2pm-5.30pm; always free for children under 18.www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello, 3.T: 02 88463703. M1 Cairoli. Map E4MUSEO DIOCESanO – This museum of religiousarts, whose new headquarters were inauguratedin 2001, hosts 600 works dating back to the 4thcentury A.D. By maximizing their historic andreligious meanings, it preserves and promotesthe valuable art treasures belonging to the“Diocese”, with smaller pieces collected fromChurch museums and treasuries across Lombardy.72 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

Museums & AttractionsOpen Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Full ticket price€8 (€4 on Tuesdays). www.museodiocesano.it.Corso di Porta Ticinese, 95. T: 02 89420019.Map E7MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI – Formerly the aristocratichome of its founder, Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli(1822-1879), it houses a remarkable collectionof Italian Renaissance masters: from Botticelli toMantegna, from Piero della Francesca to Tiepolo.It also displays weapons, ceramics, glass, textiles,clocks, watches and jewellery. Open Mon-Sun10am-6pm (closed on Tuesdays). Full ticket price€8. www.museopoldipezzoli.it. Via A. Manzoni,12. T: 02 794889/796334. M3 Montenapoleone.Map F4MUSEO TeaTraLE ALLA SCALA – Founded in 1913,it recently underwent an important makeoverand is dedicated to the history of the famousMilan Opera House with a vast collection ofmusical instruments and documents dedicatedto famous musicians, including Verdi andToscanini. Visitors can look into the theatre,provided there are no rehearsals, or admire the“machine” that gives stage directions. OpenMon-Sun (except holidays) 9am-12.30am/1.30pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €5. www.museodimilano.mi.it. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473/7423.M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4MUSEUM OF CriminOLOgy AND ANTIQUEweapONS – Housed in 12th century towers,in the Sant’Ambrogio area, at the old entranceto the city, this small museum is the perfectplace for those who are fascinated by torture. Ithosts a fine collection of weapons, armour andhorrifying instruments of torture from Medievaltimes right up to the early nineteenth century.Open Mon-Sun 10am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. FullSPOTLIGHTticket price €6.20. Via G. Carducci, 41.T: 02 8053505. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5naTUraL HISTOry MUSEUM –Home to valuable mineral, botanical andzoological collections. Highlights include alarge fossil collection, reconstructions of extinctanimals and dioramas with stuffed animalsshown in their natural habitats originating bothfrom Europe and other exotic places. It containsthe only dinosaur skeleton existing in Italy. OpenTues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Full price ticket €3 (freeadmission on Friday afternoon). www.comune.milano.it. Corso Venezia, 55. T: 02 88463280.M1 Palestro. Map H3paC–CONTempOrary ART PAVILIONS– Completed in 1996, this 1,200 sq.m. spaceis the most important exhibition centre forcontemporary art in Milan, boasting a gardenarea for sculptures, a raised floor for paintingsand a balcony for photos and graphic works.Fully accessible by the disabled. Openinghours and ticket prices vary according to theexhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it.Via Palestro, 14. T: 02 88446359/360. M1 Palestro,M3 Turati. Map G3PALazzO DELLA RAGIOne – Built in the 13thcentury as a courthouse, the palazzo is located inone of the oldest and most picturesque squaresin the city. Renovated in the Eighties, it is now aprestigious exhibition space. Opening hours andticket prices vary according to the exhibition onshow. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Mercanti, 1.T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5PALazzO REALE – Formerly the residence of allthose who governed Milan, from Napoleonto the Royal House of Savoy, the RoyalPalace is currently one of the most importantcultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitionsof international renown. Opening hours varyaccording to the exhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 875672.M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5PINACOTECA DI Brera –The Brera Art Gallery is one of the most importantmuseums in Milan. Its permanent collectionsoffer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian andforeign masterpieces including Mantegna’s“Dead Christ”, Raphael’s “Marriage of the Virgin”,Caravaggio’s “Supper at Emmaus” and, for a littlelight relief, “The Kiss” by Hayez. Open Tues-Sun8.30am-7.15pm. Full ticket price €11. www.brera.beniculturali.it. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza,M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3RISOrgimenTO MUSEUM –Located in the Brera district, the museum depictsthe Unification of the Kingdom of Italy withprints, paintings, sculptures, drawings, weaponsand other memorabilia. The very first Italian flagis housed here. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Full admission fee €2. Free for childrenunder 18 and every Friday afternoon. www.museodelrisorgimento.mi.it. Via Borgonuovo, 23.T: 02 88464177. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone.Map F3ROTONDA DELLA BESana – Formerly used as acemetery and subsequently as the city’s hospital,this evocative venue is currently an exhibitioncentre with porticoes and gardens open to thepublic. Opening hours and ticket prices varyaccording to the exhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it. Via Besana, 15. T: 02 5455047.Map H6. M3 Crocetta.STUDIO-MUSEUM FranCESCO MESSina – Locatedin the old deconsecrated Church of S. Sisto, justa few steps from the Duomo, Francesco Messina,twentieth century Italian sculptor, chose the venuehimself, considering it an ideal spot to display theworks that he had donated to the city. Tues-Sat2pm-6pm. Free admission. www.comune.milano.it. Via San Sisto, 4/A. T: 02 86453005. M1-M3 Duomo.Map E5Art at a Royal LocationFormerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, fromNapoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace iscurrently one of the most important cultural centres in the city,hosting exhibitions of international renown. Currently on exhibit"Dalí’s Approaching Dream". Piazza Duomo, 12.TriennaLE DESign MUSEUM – The Triennale diMilano is one of the most vibrant, popular andimportant exhibition centres in the city. Featuringannually changing exhibitions of note, it also ownsthe most important permanent collection ofdesign works. This fantastic museum is brimmingwith endless installations originating from brilliantminds all over the world. It has a superb medialibrary on design, art and architecture. In 2006, inaddition to the historic headquarters, a branch wasalso opened in the emerging Bovisa district. OpenTues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm; Thurs-Fri 10.30am-11pm. www.triennale.it. Viale E. Alemagna, 6.T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3ULriCO HOepLI CiviC PLaneTariUM –Planetarium activities include events, conferencesand meetings on all subjects related to astronomy:guided star-watching tours for beginners,scientific lectures for experts and various eventsfor children and young people including musicalperformances and plays. Open Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Full price ticket €3. www.comune.milano.it. Corso Venezia, 57. T: 02 88463340.M1 Palestro. Map H374 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

Out of TownMilan: Surprisingly a Ski ResortHave you ever thought of Milan as an Alpine village? Withouteven having to get up too early in the morning, it is possibleto reach many of the great ski resorts in the Alps just asthe ski lifts open, usually around 9 am. You can spend anentire day going up and down the slopes or snow shoeingthrough secluded trails. The best idea is to rent a car for aday trip or even for a “white week.” If you are lucky enoughto be able to choose when to go, choose a week day; theweekends are much more crowded and are not as much fun.Remember, it is possible to rent ski equipment at all of the skiresorts in Italy and Switzerland. However, if you prefer to buyski equipment, you may contact any of the sporting goodsstores in our listings.PHOTO © Airolo San GottardoWhere Tipspiani di bobbio – The closest destination inthe hamlet of Barzio, 75 kilometers fromMilan, overlooking the Lake of Como, headingtowards Lecco. www.pianidibobbio.com.Switzerland – North of Milan, Switzerlandis within easy reach. On the Swiss side of thelongest tunnel in Europe is the ski resort ofAirolo St. Gotthard; 160 kilometers fromMilan, with ski slopes for every level. FromDecember 4th it is possible to ski during theweekends and from December 18th the liftsare open every day. www.airolo.ch.The most glamorous ski destination inSwitzerland is St. Moritz. It is one of themost famous tourist locations in the world, aplace where luxury and the simple pleasuresof skiing meet. Chic, elegant and exclusive,it offers 320 days of sunshine a year at analtitude of 1856 meters. Its legendary dry andexhilarating weather is the reason for it beingsaid to have a “champagne climate.” St. Moritzis located 170 kilometers to the north ofMilan.dolomiti– On the Italian side, one can choosebetween the Dolomites to the east and theValle d’Aosta to the west. One of the mostfamous ski area in the Dolomites is Madonnadi Campiglio, approximately 3 hours fromMilan (see focus beside).vaLLe d'aosta – On the border with France,you can choose between the exceptionalskiing facilities of Mont Blanc or theMatterhorn, dividing up your time betweenCourmayeur, 175 kilometers from Milanand Cervinia, 160 kilometers from Milan.This sportsman’s paradise boasts cuttingedgeequipment and offers many otherdelights.For gambling enthusiasts, don’t forget theSaint Vincent Casino (see listings).Madonna di Campiglio hosts in Januarythe Ferrari Team and the Ducati, the otherItalian "red monster".The Brenta DolomitesFranceAUSTRIASWITZERLAND● St. Moritz● Airolo● Madonna di Campiglio● Cervinia ● Piani di Bobbio● Courmayeur● MilanGermanyIf you leave Milan at 7 in the morning, you canreach Madonna di Campiglio by around 10am. Drive to Campo Carlo Magno (2 km from thecenter) where you can park your car and rent skiequipment. You can buy a day ski pass (about 40euros) from one of the machines at the bottom ofthe Nube d’Argento ski lift. Following an ascent ofabout 40 minutes and after changing various skilifts you will reach the Grostè Pass at an altitude of3000 meters. From this location you can marvel atthe hundreds of snow-capped mountains and theendless views all around. More than 150 kilometers of slopes await you. Then have lunch at the Graffer lodge (acouple of hundred meters from the Grostè Pass on skis) next to the magnificent mountains that rose from the sea,millions of years ago. Don’t forget to try the “pizzoccheri” (a pasta with cheese, potatoes and vegetables). As youhead back down towards the village of Madonna di Campiglio, you will pass the Caffè Suisse and retrace the trailsthat the Austrian Empress Sissi loved so dearly, then head towards the 5 Laghi ski lift and you will arrive back at yourcar at Campo Carlo Magno, crossing the famous black ski slopes for expert skiers Tre Tre and Amazzonia.Live webcam and a ski map can be found on www.madonnadicampiglio.to. Phone +39 0465 447501.www.wheretraveler.com 75

Essentials5 METROPOLITANA MILANESE - MILAN METRORHOLEGENDAMetropolitana Linea 1Underground Line 1Metropolitana Linea 2Underground Line 2Metropolitana Linea 3Underground Line 3Passante Ferroviario MilaneseUrban RailwayMetro Automatico per OspedaleAutomatic train to Hospitalwww.atm-mi.itRHO FieramilanoPeroMolino DorinoS. LeonardoBonolaUruguayLampugnanoQT8LottoAmendolaBuonarrotiCertosaVillapizzoneWagnerDe AngeliGambaraBande NerePrimaticcioInganniBisceglieQuartoOggiaroDomodossolaS. CristoforoPaganoBovisaConciliazioneBruzzanoAfforiLancettiCentrale FSRepubblicaLanzaTuratiMontenapoleoneCadorna Cairoli CordusioS. AmbrogioS. AgostinoP.ta Genova FSRomoloFamagostaGaribaldi FSAbbiategrassoChiesa RossaZaraSondrioMaciachiniMoscovaGioiaGrecoCaiazzoMissoriCrocettaMonzaSesto 1º Maggio FSSesto Rondo’Sesto MarelliVilla San Cologno NordGiovanniPrecotto Cologno CentroCologno SudGorlaTurroPortaRomana FSBrentaCorvettoRoveretoPasteurLoretoLimaP.ta VeneziaPalestroSan BabilaDuomoP.taRomanaPiolaP.taLodi TibbOspedale S.RaffaeleDateoViittoriaPorto diMareCascina GobbaCrescenzagoCimianoUdineLambrate FSRogoredoGessateSegrateCascinaAntoniettaGorgonzolaVilla PompeaBusseroCassina de’PecchiVilla FioritaCernusco S.N.Cascina BurronaVimodroneTreviglioPioltelloS. DonateGetting AroundIn addition to the metro (underground)system, cited in the listings, Milan is alsocovered by numerous tram and bus routes.For more information regarding Milan’spublic transport system: ATM - AziendaTrasporti Milanesi – Local Public TransportCompany - Mon-Sun 7.30am-7.30pm.www.atm-mi.it. T: 800 808181.Ordinary ticket (1 €)Valid for 75 minutes. Can be used on buses,trams or the metro (one trip only).Day ticket (3 €)Valid 24h. Bus, tram and metro with no limits.Two-day ticket (5 €)Valid 48h. Bus, tram and metro no limits.Where to buy your ticket:from metro stations, newstands, tobacconists(shops displaying a large T sign), barsdisplaying the green and orange ATM stickerin the window or automatic machines locatedin every metro station.For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comEmergency• Carabinieri T: 112.• Ambulance T: 118.• City Police T: 02 77271.• Medical services T: 02 34567.• Open Pharmacies T: 800 801185.• Passports Questura di Milano, viaFatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 0262261.• Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles City of Milan.Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900.Tourist informationInfo Service Comune di Milano – IAT Ufficioinformazioni turistiche. M1, M3 Duomo. Mon-Sat8.45am-1pm; 2pm-6pm; Sun 9am-1pm; 2pm-5pm. www.turismo.comune.milano.it. PiazzaDuomo 19/a. T: 02 77404343. Map F5. M1, M3Duomo.Info Service Provincia di Milano – IAT Ufficioinformazioni turistiche. Mon-Sun 9am-1pm; 2pm-5pm. www.provincia.milano.it. Stazione CentraleFS. T: 02 77404318. Map H1. M2 Centrale FS.Public TransportATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi - Mon-Sun7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm-mi.it. Tel. 800 808181Radiobus - On-call minibuses pick up fromdesignated stops and drive passengers directlyto their door. They are available from 8pmto 2am and must be booked in advance.Reservations can be made up to threedays in advance or by 6pm on the night on02.48.03.48.03 (call 0248034800 for late pickups).Ticket: 3 € (buy it on the bus).TaxiHow to catch a taxi in Milan. From the hotel: call theconcierge. While out and about in the city, call fora taxi on:Autoradiotaxi 02 85.85Taxi Blu 02 40.40Yellow Taxi 02 69.69Taxi airport fees:From or to Malpensa: € 85From or to Linate: € 60From or to Orio al Serio: € 100/110TrainsFerrovie dello Stato - Trenitalia RailwayCompany - General info T: 892021.www.trenitalia.comFerrovie Nord Milano - Milano Nord Railway- General info T: 199 15 152. Mon-Sun 7am-10pm.www.ferrovienord.itAirportsMALPENSA - (45 km from the centre of Milan- A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 0274852200 (call center). www.sea-aeroportimilano.itLost&Found T: 02 232323.Malpensa Express T: 199 151152. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.malpensaexpress.it. Customer Care c/oStazione Milano Cadorna FNM. Mon-Fri 7am-8pm;Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-4pm / Departures fromMalpensa to Cadorna FNM 26’ and 56’ after thehour (5.26am-11.56pm) / Departures from CadornaFNM 30’ and 00’ after the hour (5.30am-11pm).Malpensa Shuttle T: 0331 258411. www.malpensashuttle.it. Departures from Terminal 1exit 5 to Stazione Centrale FS, every 20 minutes(6.20am-10pm) / from Stazione Centrale FS toTerminal 1, every 20 minutes (5.20am-9pm).Malpensa bus Express www.autostradale.it.Departures from Terminal 1 exit 6 to StazioneCentrale FS every 20 minutes (6.50am-10.10pm)- Departures from Stazione Centrale FS to Terminal1 exit 6 every 20 minutes (6.50am-10.10pm).linate - (7 km from the centre of Milan). Flightinformation 24h-24h T: 02 74852200 (call center).www.sea-aeroportimilano.itLost luggage T: 02 58581285Bus 73 Departures from Milano-piazza San Babilato Linate, every 10 minutes (5.35am-0.35am).Departures from Linate-Floor Arrival to MilanopiazzaSan Babila, every 10 minutes (6.05am-0.55am)ORIO AL SERIO - (45 km from the centre of Milan– A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it.Lost luggage T: 035 326297/352.Lost&Found T: 035 326297. Mon-Sun. 8am-10pmLeft luggage arrivals area T: 035 318472. Mon-Sun8am-0pm.Orio Shuttle - Airpulmann from Aeroporto ParkingBus to Stazione Centrale FS Mon-Fri every 30minutes (6am-10.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30 minutes(8.15am-7.15pm) / from Stazione Centrale toAeroporto Orio Mon-Fri every 30 minutes (5.45am-11.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30 minutes (5.45am-7.15pm)TELEPHONE CHECK IN AND CALL CENTERAeroflot - T: 02 66986985 (call center)Alitalia - T: 06 2222 (call center)Air France - T: 848 884466 (call center)Airone - T: 199 207080 (call center from 5am to 11pm)British Airways - T: 199 712266 (call center)Delta Airlines - T: 848 780.376 (call center)subscribe to wheremilan newsletter at www.wheremilan.com: your free update on Milan!76 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2010

Emitares - T: 06 54220213 (call center)Iberia - T: 848 826236 (call center)Japan Airlines - T: 848 874700 (call center)KLM - T: 199 414199 (call center)Lufthansa - T: 199 400555 (call center)Swiss Airlines - T: 848 868120 (call center)US Airways - T: 848 813177 (call center)Pharmacy 24h-24hStazione Centrale - Piazza Duca D’Aosta. T: 02 6690735Night pharmacySanta Teresa - Corso Magenta, 96. T: 02 48006772Canonica - Via Canonica, 32. T: 02 33609233Formaggia - C.so Buenos Aires, 4. T: 02 29513320Fatebenefratelli - Piazza Principessa Clotilde, 1T: 02 6555242Florists 7 Days a WeekMonceau Fleurs – www.monceaufleurs.it. VialeBianca Maria corner of Via Raiberti. T: 02 76021753 andPiazza Bonomelli, 9. T: 02 534638.Urgent DeliveryMailBoxes Etc. – www.mbe.it. Via Moscova, 13.T: 02 29002245.City Ex - www.cityex.it. T: 02 5064.Sinergie Express - www.ponymilano.it.T: 02 537373.Sds - www.sdsmilano.it. T: 02 66714827.RentalsCAR RENTALAvis: www.avisautonoleggio.it. T: 199 100133.Maggiore: www.maggiore.it. T: 199 151120.Hertz: www.hertz.it. T: 199 112211.MOPed RENTALVipernolo: www.vipernolo.com.Via Populonia 6/8. T: 02 66805738.BICYCle RENTALBikeMi: www.bikemi.com. Bike Sharing serviceof the Milan Municipality available from 250stations dotted around the town offering 5000bikes, which can be used for max. 2 hours.Price: first 30 minutes free of charge, then €0.50every 30 minutes. Subscriptions: daily €2.50/weekly €6.50/annual €36. Credit Cards only.City ToursCity tour - (3.5 h) daily morning and afternoon,entrance to Cenacolo (Last Supper), Museodella Scala, Duomo, Castello Sforzesco included.T: 02 48036999. Price: € 60.CitySightseeing Milano - (24 hours HOPON HOP OFF) Foro Bonaparte 76. T: 02 867131.www.milano.city-sightseeing.it. Departure:Piazza Castello. Map E4. M1 Cairoli. Languagesspoken: Italian, English, French, Spanish,German, Chinese, Japanese, Russian. On boardticket purchased. Ad: €20; Ch: €10Private Guided ToursSOPhistiCated ITALY - www.sophisticateditaly.com. Sophisticated Italy designs private toursincluding personal shopping to affluenttravelers throughout Italy. Via L.B. Alberti, 5.T: 02 36521621. Map b1.InterpretersStudio Bernitz - careybernitz@virgilio.it.T: 02 26415319/3356348682Language Consulting: www.lcc.it. ViaLanzone, 6. T: 02 8057846/864156.Internet PointMondadori Multicenter: Piazza Duomo, 1.T: 02 454411. • Via Marghera, 28. T: 02 480471.Fnac: via Torino corner of Via della Palla.T: 02 869541.A BRAND OF ITS OWNNow even Milan has its own brand. To mark the occasion, the brand was presentedat the Town Hall by the Councillor for Tourism Alessandro Morelli together with otherproducts carrying the city’s trademark. Tucano bags, design objects, bicycles, anexclusive MV Agusta motorbike and even the most traditional symbol of Milanesedesserts, panettone. Products stemming from the creative collaboration of leadingLombary companies all bearing the distinctive hallmark feature of the city. The line ofproducts carrying the Milano Brand can be purchased online at www.turismo.milano.itIn the photo, Sciur, the classic city bike whose name in Milanese dialect literally means Mister.Milano AmaMi Cardis a multifunctional cardthat offers anadvantageous packageof public services, citytravel, tourism,culture and finance.www.tourism.milan.itto find out more aboutdiscounts, conventions,selected museums and outletsPrice: €2548 hour validityWHERE to PURCHASE IT• ATM Point Duomo • ATM PointCadorna • ATM Point Porta Garibaldi• Brera Picture Gallery • Museum ofScience and Technology “LeonardoDa Vinci” • Castello Sforzesco • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Piazza Diaz, cornerof Via Marconi • Intesa SanpaoloBranch Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 2 • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Via Verdi 8 • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Piazza Cordusio, 4(ang. Via Mercanti) • Intesa SanpaoloBranch Via Mercato, 5 • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Rho-Pero (FieraMilano)PUBLIC transPORTMilano AmaMi Card allows you totravel for 48 hours on the entireATM urban transport network -Metropolitana (subway), tram, busand trolleybus - up to the Rho-Fiera MM station. State Railways,Ferrovie Nord Milano (Northernline) trains lines and the PassanteFerroviario are not included in theCard’s offer.MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONSMilano AmaMi Card opensthe doors to 17 of the mostprestigious museums in the cityfor the duration of 48 hours (fromthe time of the first entrance).For exhibitions, presenting yourCard at the ticket offices, you willreceive a discount on the ticketentrance price at Palazzo Reale,Ambrosiana, Triennale and others.www.wheretraveler.com 77

1234567V.le L. ScarampoV.le EginardoV.le del LavoroV. Guglielmo Silva V. B. ColleoniV. VolpedoV. Mosè BianchiV. DomenichinoV. G. PreviatiV. F. Faruffini16V. P. UccelloV. Cittàdel MessicoV. MadruzzoV. F. AlbaniV. S. Del PiomboV. Monte BiancoV.le Ergisto BezziV. Carlo RavizzaV. A. MarioP.zaDe AngeliDe AngeliV. Giuseppe FruaV. dei GracchiTripoliV. BerengarioP.za G.AmendolaA B CFauchéSpazio Acqua1MILANOMILANPOPOUT MAP15 ILPORTELLOV. CorreggioV. A. SpinolaV. MargheraV. AlcuinoV. Giovanni da Procida17VelodromoVigorelli14 P.le CarloMagno18L.go20 Domodossola132119 Fiera12 Milano 122 23 211PalazzodelloP.le3Sport10Italia 49Under Construction(2007 – 2014) 58 7 6L.go V. SenofonteAfricaV.le EzioV. Monte RosaV. V. ColonnaV. Michelangelo BuonarrotiV.le DuilioV.le d.ComeméricoV.le dell’IndustriaV.le BelisarioV. GiottoV. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio TizianoV. L. SaccoV. SardegnaV. GattamelataWhere ® MilanSanSiroP.leArduinoInformationPlace of InterestMuseumTheatreShoppingPost OfficePoliceonly atpremierehotelsAmendolaFiera SacraFamigliaV. G. del MainoV. P. CavalcabòV. RoncagliaV. Giorgio WashingtonV.MonferratoV. ElbaV. S. CabotoV. G. BoniV. L. B. AlbertiV. AronaCasa P.zaVerdi BuonarrotiBuonarrotiP.zaTeatro PiemonteNazionaleP.za SiciliaP.zaIrnerioLEGENDP.le GiulioCesareP.zaWagnerWagnerMarketChurchS. Pietroin SalaViewpointTrain StationP.zaPoMetro StationCycle PathSwimming PoolParkingCorso Sempione Corso SempioneV.le S. BoezioV.le CassiodoroV. della RobbiaV. Pier CapponiV. D. CimarosaV. San EusebioV. BiondiV. PolibioV. AlessandriV.BiondiV. CorleoneV. PanziniV. Giuseppe DezzaP.zaVesuvioV. FauchéV. P. d. FrancescaV. Francesco FerruccioV. MussiV. Domodossola V. PolizianoV. RossettiCorso VercelliV. Paolo GiovioV. VergaV. StromboliV. CaliforniaV. TortonaV. Ippolito NievoV. Leone XIIIV. G. PallavicinoV. Egadi V. LipariV. Moisé LoriaV. StendhalP.za VIFebbraioP.zaBazziV. F. FilelfoCavalleriaSavoiaV. da GiussanoV. RasoriV. B. PanizzaV. Fratelli IndunoV. Giulio C. ProcacciniV. A. CanovaCorso MagentaV. San VittoreV. F. Melzi D’ErilV. Vincenzo Monti V. Vincenzo MontiV. ReggimentoV. Mario PaganoV. S. Michele del CarsoV. Vincenzo FoppaV. ValparaisoP.zaRosarioV. LosannaStazioneDomodossolaP.zaGiovanniXXIIIP.leAquileiaV. BergognoneV. L. CastelvetroV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MascheroniV.le di Porta VercellinaV. MontevideoV. Andrea SolariV. SavonaP.zaGerusalemmeV. TassoV. M. BandelloV. Nicolò TartagliaV. Paolo LomazzoV.le G. MiltonV. Gian Battista VicoV. Giulio C. ProcacciniV. G. B. BertiniV.le Papiniano V.le PapinianoV. CeranoV. VogheraV. TortonaV. Monviso V. MonvisoV. F. LondonioV. Andrea Massena V. MoscatiV. N. MachiavelliL.go VAlpiniCarceriS. VittoreParcoSolariMercatonedell'AntiquariatoL.goGramsciV. G. RevereV. PetrarcaV. P. TamburiniV. G. RovaniV. degli OlivetaniV.le Coni ZugnaV. VentimigliaV. TortonaV. XX SettembreV. ValenzaV. A. SaffiV. B. ZenaleV. A. AleardiV. E. AlemagnaV. Luigi NonoV. Paolo Sarpi V. Paolo SarpiTorreBrancaV. G. LeopardiV. de TogniV. OlonaV. AribertoV. RosminiV. Luigi CanonicaV. A. BertaniV. Giosuè CarducciV. E. De AmicisV.le GoriziaV. SimonettaV. G. B. NiccoliniV. d’OggionoV.le ElveziaV.le MaltaV.le Gabriele d’AnnunzioCorso C.Colombo Corso GenovaV. VigevanoV. MessinaV. CarroccioV. BoccaccioV. AusonioRipa di Porta TicineseStrada Alzaia Naviglio GrandeV. MessinaS. AmbrogioMuseo Nazionaledella Scienzae della TecnicaP.zaS. Agostino S. AgostinoTeatroLiberoStazionePta. GénovaL.go C.GaddaV. G. GiustiV.le W. GoetheV. TerraggioV. S. VincenzoV. LanzoneV. Cesare Sesto V. G. FerrariP.taGenova FSNaviglio GrandeDP.zaCoriolanoL.go L.MediciMon.NapoleoneIIITriennale -Palazzodell’ArteV. S. CalogeroP.leCantoreDarsenaCimiteroMonumentaleP.za S. S.TrinitàParcoSempioneV.le GadioP.za S.AmbrogioFiera diSenigalliaForo BuonaparteCorso MagentaV. Conca del NaviglioV.le GoriziaNav.PaveseP.leCimiteroMonumentaleV. S. ValeriaV. Card.A. SforzaV. CeresioV.le MontelloV. CorrentiV. ArenaV. BramanteV. P. CapuccioBasilica diS. AmbrogioUniversitàCattolicadel Sacro CuoreS. Bernardinoalle MonacheP.zaResistenzaPartigianaArenaCivicaV. CollodiAnfiteatroRomanoCorso di Porta TicineseCorso S.GottardoV. Carlo FariniBastioni diPorta VoltaV. LegnanoV.le GadioV. S.G.sul MuroV. S. M.PortaV.le CrispiV. Alessandro VoltaV. MoscovaV. Sant’OrsolaPta.TicineseP.le XXIVMaggioP.zaBaiamontiP.le LegaLombardaAcquarioCivicoMuseod’Arte Anticae PinacotecaCastelloSforzescoP.zaStazioneTommaseoCadornaPaganoP.leMalpensa CadornaExpress Cadorna FNMP.za P.zaConciliazione GiovineTriennaleConciliazione Italia CenacoloPORTAVincianoMAGENTAS. NicolaoS. MariaP.le F.della Grazie L.go P.PalazzoL.go Baraccad’Ancona LittaSettimoPalazzoSeveroMuseo Teatrale dellealla Scala StellineCONCHETTABULLONAP.zaP.za dei SempioneVolontari ArcoCorpus dellaDomini PaceS. Vittoreal CorpoVic.S. Maria Lavandaial NaviglioPORTAVOLTAP.za CastelloMuseoArcheologicoAntica Pta.TicineseMuseoDiocesanoNAVIGLIA BC D EEForo BuonaparteV. DanteV. MeravigliV. TorinoCorso GaribaldiV. Molino delle ArmiV.le G. GaleazzoV.le Col di LanaV. Guglielmo PepV. Maurizio QuadrioV. MaroncelliV.le PasubioLanzaBreraV. S. M.FulcorinaV. PontaccioV. MercatoL.goCairoliCairoliP.zaMentanaTeatroStrehlerL.goCarrobbioBasilicaS. LorenzoMaggioreV. S. MaurilloParco delleBasilicheV. Santa CroceV. SambucoS. Antonioda PádovaP.leAprPoGaribaPORTATENAGLIAP.zaVetraS. MaIncoroL.go MoscLa FoppaV. PalermoV. SV. OV.V. CornagV. DiscipliniV. OlmettoCorso GaribaldiFondazioneMuseo L.MinguzziL.gTreBasilica di SanSimplicianoV. F. ChiariV.PiattiV. BrolettoTeatroBuratBRERAV. dell’V. CrocefissoV. C. Del FantV. San LucaSS. Maria deCarmineallP.zaBorsa CordusioBibliotecaPinacotecaAmbrosianaBasilica S. Eustorgioe Cappella PortinariCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map andCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without theS.MP.le diLodov

V. MazzinideltoeolferinoCorso ComoreficiTorinogiaeV. P. BorsieriV. De CristoforisV. SolferinoCorso Italia Corso ItaliaV.le Monte GrappaV. San MarcoBastioni di Porta NuovaV. G. VerdiV.le BlignyV. MoscovaCorso Porta NuovaV. FatebenefratelliV. S.MargheritaV. ConfalonieriV. De CastilliaStazionePorta GaribaldiP.taGaribaldi FSXXVTeatroile SmeraldortaldirianataovaOrsoV.le L. SturzoV. CastelfidardoChiesa AnglicanaovesV. MontebelloP.za. MarcoPinacotecadi Breral Museo delRisorgimentoMontenapoleoneV. BreraP.zaMissoriissoriV. AlbricciCorso di Porta RomanaP.za S.EufemiaV. G. MercalliV. San MartinoV. Santa SofiaV. Melchiorre GioiaOspedaleFatebenefratelliV. AnnunciataV. Alessandro ManzoniV. Bianca di SavoiaV. S. CalimeroV.le Monte SantoV. MontenapoleoneV. BigliV. LargaV. SassettiGioiaV. AppianiV. F. TuratiStudio Museo TuratiTreccaniS. Marco QuesturaCordusio Emanuele IIDuomo DuomoP.za delDuomoPalazzoRealeL.go DeBenedettiPta.NuovaTeatroa Scala P.za L.godella ScalaMattioliPal. MarinoMunicipioGalleriaVittorioSatiroFP.zaErculeaS. PaoloConversoP.zaDiazTorreVelascaUniversitàS. Naz.MaggioreS. Maria dellaVisitazioneP.za S.NazaroV. GalileiV. SenatoCorso MatteottiCorso V. Emanuele IIV. VerziereP.za S.StefanoV. F. d. PerdonoV. Vignoni V. QuadronnoV. C. CrivelliV. PirelliPORTANUOVASocietà per leBelle Arti edEsposizionePermanenteS. AngeloV. della SpigaV. Francesco SforzaCorso Porta VigentinaV.le BlignyV. Daniele ManinV. S. AndreaS. BabilaV. d. SignoraV.CardanoV. Gen. G. FaraRepubblicaP.za dellaRepubblicaP.zaCavourV. PalestroV. DuriniCorso EuropaV. CervaV. GuastallaGiardinodellaGuastallaOspedaleMaggioredi Milano -PoliclinicoCrocettaV. Fabio FilziPalazzodel SenatoCorso VeneziaV. Visconti di ModroneV. della CommendaV. GalvaniP.za S.Gioachino RepubblicaAmericanContourellaP.za S.BabilaTeatroCarcanoV.le TunisiaV. S.DamianoV. RonchettiCorso di Porta RomanaP.zaGrattacielo Duca d’AostaPirelliV.le Vittorio VenetoBastioni di Porta VeneziaV. MarinaV. BattistiV. Vittor PisaniV. CasatiCorso MonforteCorso Porta VittoriaPalazzodiGiustiziaV. FregugliaV. San BarnabaV. A. LamarmoraV. San GregorioV. TencaV. Lazzaretto V. SettembriniCorso VeneziaV. MozartV. TorrianiV. CastaldiV. Pietro MascagniV.le Emilio CaldaraV.le Regina MargheritaV.le Monte NeroV. VitruvioV. SettalaV. VivaioV. LeccoV. CappucciniV. ConservatorioV.PassioneV. Filippo CorridoniV. M. FantiV. OrtiV.le SabotinoP.za IVNovembreGiardiniPubbliciCivico PlanetarioUlrico HoepliMuseo diStoriaNaturaleGalleriad’ArteModernaPalestroV. Manara V. della PaceV. CurtatoneCentraleFSPrefettura(PalazzoIsimbardi)S. Mariapresso S. CelsoP.taSanti Pietro Romanae Paolodei Pellegrini PortaRomanaPta. L.go I. V.le Beatrice d’Este Pta. V.le A. Filippetti P.leica D'AragonaVigentinaMusei di MedagliePorta Romana d’OroGSinagogaS. Mariadella PaceV. PodgoraStazioneCentraleSpazioOberdanV.le L. MajnoV.le Bianca MariaV. FontanaV. MacchiV. BoscovichV. TadinoPortaVeneziaV. E. BesanaCorso Buenos AiresV.le PiaveV.le Monte NeroV.le PremudaV.le LazioV. P. LombardoV. S. LuttuadoV. L. MuratoriV. AportiPortaVeneziaPta.VeneziaP.leOberdan 3P.zaDuseRotondadellaBesanaP.zaLuigidi SavoiaS. CamilloS. Mariadella PassionePORTAROMANAF G HHS. ConsiglioGregorioStazioneLambrateMuseo BeniCulturaliCappucciniP.ledel TricoloreConserv. diMusica G. VerdiPta.VittoriaP.zaCinqueGiornateFondazionePradaV. A. Maffei12456TeatroFranco 7Parenti6593LAguide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics.permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics. For further details see our web site:www.popoutproducts.co.uk5 sTARS superiorSeven Stars Galleria– Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5Bulgari Hotels & Resorts Milano– Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4Four Seasons Hotel Milano – Via Gesù, 8 • G4Grand Hotel et de Milan – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4Park Hyatt Milan – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F5The Westin Palace – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G25 stARSBoscolo Exedra Milano – Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6 • G4Hotel Meliá Milano – Via Masaccio, 19 • OFF MAPCarlton Hotel Baglioni Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4The Gray Milano – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F54 stARS superiorGrand Visconti Palace Milano– Viale Isonzo, 14 • OFF MAPEnterprise Hotel – Corso Sempione, 9 • B1De la ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • OFF MAP4 stARSAcca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAPADI Hotel Poliziano Fiera – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • C1Admiral Hotel – Via Domodossola, 16 • B2Antares Hotel Accademia Milano– Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAPAntares Hotel Concorde Milano– Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAPAtaHotel Contessa Jolanda Residence– Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAPAtaHotel Executive– Viale Don L. Sturzo, 45 • F1AtaHotel Expo Fiera – Via G. Keplero, 12 • OFF MAPAtaHotel Fiera Milano – Viale S. Boezio, 20 • B2AtaHotel Linea Uno Residence– Viale Monza, 139 • OFF MAPAtaHotel Quark – Via Lampedusa, 11/A • OFF MAPAtaHotel The Big – Via C. de Cristoforis, 6/8 • F2Baviera Mokinba Hotel Milano– Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G2Best Western Astoria Hotel Milano– Viale Murillo, 9 • OFF MAPBest Western Hotel Felice Casati– Via F. Casati, 18 • H2Best Western Hotel Galles– Piazza Lima, 2 • OFF MAPBest Western Milton – Via E. Butti, 9 • OFF MAPCamperio House Suite & Apartments– Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4Capitol World Class Hotel Milano– Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • B5Carlyle Brera Hotel – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3Corte del Naviglio– Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAPCorvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAPCrivi’s Hotel Milano – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G7Crowne Plaza Hotels & Resorts– Via Melchiorre Gioia, 73 • OFF MAPDouble tree by Hilton Milan– Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAPFour Points by Sheraton Milan Center– Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1Grand Hotel Brun – Via Caldera, 21 • OFF MAPGrand Hotel Plaza Milan – Piazza A. Diaz, 3 • F5Green House Hotel Residence– Viale Famagosta, 50 • OFF MAPHilton Milan Hotel – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1Hotel Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G5Hotel Ariosto – Viale L. Ariosto, 22 • C4Hotel Atlantic Milano – Via N. Torriani, 24 • H1Hotel Auriga Milano – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • H1Hotel Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • H2Hotel Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H1Hotel Brunelleschi Milano – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5Hotel Cavour Milano – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • G3Hotel Colombia Milano – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • H1Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F6Hotel del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • OFF MAPMilan MapHotel Dieci – Largo Rio De Janeiro, 12 • OFF MAPHotel Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G5Hotel Hermitage Milano – Via Messina, 10 • D2Hotel King Milano – Corso Magenta, 19 • E5Hotel Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F6Hotel Manin – Via D. Manin, 7 • G3Hotel Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4Hotel Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • H1Hotel Michelangelo Milano– Via D. Scarlatti, 33 • H1Hotel Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • H1Hotel Mirage Milano– Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAPHotel Montebianco Mokinba– Via Monterosa, 90 • OFF MAPHotel Mozart Milano– Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • C1Hotel Mythos Milano – Via C. Tenca, 21 • H2Hotel Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • B1Hotel Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAPHotel Residence Romana– Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6Hotel Sanpi Milano – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • H2Hotel Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5Hotel St. George Milano – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H2International Residence– Via G. Modena, 4 • OFF MAPLeonardo da Vinci Hotel– Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAPMadison Hotel – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • OFF MAPMaison Moschino – Viale Monte Grappa, 12/b • F2Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3Mihotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAPMilan Marriott Hotel – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via La Spezia, 25 • OFF MAPMini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • A1Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • B4Novotel Milano Linate– Via Mecenate, 121 • OFF MAPNovotel Milano Nord Ca’ Granda– Viale G. Suzzani, 13 • OFF MAPRadisson Blu Hotel– Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAPRegency Hotel Milano– Via G. Arimondi, 12 • OFF MAPResidence Bianca Croce– Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAPResidence Desenzano Milano– Via Desenzano, 12 • OFF MAPRoyal Garden Hotel– Via G. Di Vittorio - ASSAGO • OFF MAPSheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport Hotel– Malpensa Terminal 1 - SS. 336 • OFF MAPSilver Hotel – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAPStarhotels Anderson– Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1Starhotels Business Palace– Via P. Gaggia, 3 • OFF MAPStarhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • OFF MAPStarhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • G5Starhotels Splendido – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1Starhotels Tourist – Viale F. Testi, 300 • OFF MAPStraf – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F5The Hub Hotel – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAPTown House 12 – Piazza Gerusalemme, 12 • C1Town House 31 – Via C. Goldoni, 31 • OFF MAPTown House 33 – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • OFF MAPUNA Maison Milano – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5UNA Hotel Century – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G1UNA Hotel Cusani – Via Cusani, 13 • E4UNA Hotel Malpensa– Via F. Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAPUNA Hotel Mediterraneo– Via G.B. Muratori, 14 • H7UNA Hotel Scandinavia – Via Fauché, 15 • C1UNA Hotel Tocq – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F1WattTredici Hotel – Via G. Watt, 13 • OFF MAPWindsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2

10 things we love about MilanThe newly restored frescoes, recently returnedto the Municipality of Milan, found in the 16thcentury church of San Maurizio al MonasteroMaggiore, a real jewel located in Corso Magenta15. The brightly coloured rectory, chapels andvaults will literally take your breath away. Tue-Sat9.30am-5.30pm.Try a “panzerotto” at Luini’s, a pocket ofpizza crust stuffed with all sorts of ingredients,including the basic mozzarella cheese andtomatoes. A Milanese institution since 1940, just astone’s throw from the Duomo and la Rinascente.You will recognize it by the crowds queuing upon the pavement! Never fear, service is quick andefficient and the wait is well worth it. Luini will beclosed on 13, 25 and 26 December and from 29to 2 January.Enjoy a view of the snow-covered city fromthe top of the Torre Branca, a metallic structuremeasuring 108 metres, designed by the famousarchitect Giò Ponti.Discover Roman relics in Milan: the Romebuilt“Mediolanum” still hides several signs ofits history. For your information, the first twoperpendicular roads running through the cityoriginally ran from today’s Porta Ticinese rightup to Piazza della Scala (the “cardo” – axial street)and from Porta Romana to Corso Magenta (the“decumanus”) meeting at the site on which thePinacoteca Ambrosiana stands today (100 metresfrom Piazza del Duomo).example is Indro Montanelli, a pillar of Italianjournalism. After his death in 2001, the Gardensin Porta Venezia, where he loved to sit and think,were named after him.Meeting a taxi driver carrying a parrotnamed Gilda in his taxi as if it were the mostnormal thing in the world. Talk about “JungleMetropolitan”...Strolling among the myriad of stalls betweenvia Dante and the Loggia dei Mercanti. This,delicately lit, medieval portico, is one of the mostenchanting spots in the city.Taste the simple pleasure of a paper conefilled with “caldarroste”, chestnuts roastedwhile you wait, measured out with a metalscoop. Formerly considered the food of thepoor, though slightly more costly today, theystill remain a treat well worth trying. The Duomoarea is filled with carts selling these fabulousChristmas delicacies.Bringing in the New Year to the soundof Gospel, in the intimate, elegant atmosphereof Blue Note, the temple of Milanese jazz,in via Borsieri.6Browse through the objects on display at theChristmas Village in the Navigli district(www.christmasvillage.it), an area dedicatedentirely to Christmas decorations and festivecentrepieces for your table and home.One of the main themes this year are elves.Look for traces of famous Milanese publicfigures, possibly unknown to foreigners butdearly loved by the city of Milan. One such4938TORRE BRANCA: PHOTO BY LANOCHE. ROMAN RELICS: PHOTO BY SOFIA CANNARA MALAN80 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

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