Wool in Life Cycle Assessments and Design Tools - SIFO

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2. Abstract KEA ConferenceSustainability in textiles and fashionApril 2011Kjersti Kviseth and Tone TobiassonEco-credentials are becoming an important factor in the quest for customers and profit: Thusdifferent assessments of the environmental impact of a fiber not only show off the eco-footprint,energy- or water-use; but also becomes a positioning-tool in the market-place.When Dutch “Made-By” launched their benchmark assessment of fibers, it created quite a stir as itwas one of the first attempts to do an international over-all quantified eco-ranking to be used bydesigners, manufacturers and consumers. H&M, among others, quickly adopted it as a guide insourcing, but critical voices emerged - especially when it was unearthed that the assessment waslimited up until spinning. This fact was not clearly communicated and created a picture where woolwas ranked in the dunce class alongside conventional cotton.This is one recent example of how good intentions can cause confusion when not communicatedclearly, and illustrates the complexity of Life Cycle Assessments.The European and American Outdoor Group`s Eco-Index and Colour Connection`s Eco-metrics offerqualitative eco-indicator guides based on life cycle data, with the aim to assist designers,manufacturers and consumers in their decision makings.This paper addresses the growing competition for being the most “eco-friendly” fiber. It discusseswhether LCA is an adequate tool for comparing fibers and textiles, and compares traditional LifeCycle Analyses with the Cradle-to-Cradle Life Cycle Development. Further it looks at different LifeCycle Analysis and tools that have attempted to rank and judge fibers and textiles, and addresses thechallenges in communicating complex facts to the market.4
3. SummaryLife Cycle Analysis (LCA) has been an available tool in industry for 20 years, but has not developedinto a widely used tool for decision making in companies. It is dependent on specific scientificcompetence and data tools and is not a convenient tool for designers and small companies. MostLCAs are being used to compare the negative environmental impact of products or services, not asbasis for improvements and new designs. There are big differences in individual companyperformance throughout the industry that is not visible in LCA since they are mainly performed withglobal data and industry averages. The scientific world of LCA includes disagreements on metrics andweightings, and is often confusing people by nontransparent or not complete assessments.A textile fiber as raw material represents the first stage of a product`s life cycle and must be furtherprocessed to become a product. If conducting an LCA only of the fiber, most of the intended productlife and impact is lacking and the LCA becomes a narrow, fragmented study. The single stage analysiscreates the risk of misguiding users as being a complete answer, if not communicated very clearly.The clothing industry encompasses both fast-consumption fashion and long-term classics. Theecological impacts are dependent just as much on life-time, use and end-of-life solutions as they areon material choice and manufacturing. Therefore clothes must be designed in a complete life cycleperspective, and choosing materials must be related to function, esthetics, expected life time, careand end-of-life.Designers have the power and opportunities to change a negative ecological footprint in to creatingvalue for both people and planet. Harmful chemicals can be avoided in the products from thebeginning, and plans for the material`s afterlife and recycling can be included in the design process.This, in combination with a change in consumer behavior, made possible by focusing on quality andpreventing businesses pushing McFashion-like consumption.Future focus must be on improvement, innovation and design in a never-ending dynamic process,one example being the Cradle to Cradle Design thinking. If we do things right from the beginning wewill need LCA only as inventory tool, since impact is designed to be positive. The Cradle to Cradleapproach has a holistic approach with solutions for all stages at the same time, acknowledging thateverything is connected and that if we use nature`s principles and do things right from the beginning,we do not end up in difficult moral choices between bad or less bad.The textile Industry has started to both develop and share design tools that are holistic, easy-to-useand communicative. This is very welcome in a complex global industry with huge negativeenvironmental impacts. These tools will contribute to continuous improvements in ecologicalperformances from clothing throughout their entire life cycles and serve the market with transparentinformation.Near future will provide us with more useful and easy- to- use Life Cycle based Design tools to assistindustry and business in design, manufacturing and purchasing of products. As industry continues tobuild coalitions to cooperate, this will become a strong tool for ecological improvement andsustainable growth on a larger scale.5
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