Avalanche Safety: Avalanche Safety: - The Alpine Club of Canada
Avalanche Safety: Avalanche Safety: - The Alpine Club of Canada
Avalanche Safety: Avalanche Safety: - The Alpine Club of Canada
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Vol. 16, No. 1 ● Winter 2002<strong>Avalanche</strong><strong>Safety</strong>:Not just forSnow Geekspage 8Buildinga Dream<strong>The</strong> Trailto Abbot Hutpage 5
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>Corporate Supporters<strong>The</strong> ACC thanks the following for their support,and encourages you to consider them and theadvertisers in this newsletter the next time youpurchase goods or services <strong>of</strong> the type they <strong>of</strong>fer.Corporate SponsorsExplore MagazineHelly HansenMarmotMountain Hardwear<strong>The</strong> North FaceCorporate MembersAlberta Sport, Recreation, Parks & WildlifeFoundationAssociation <strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain GuidesBackcountry AccessBanff Centre for Mountain CultureBlack Diamond EquipmentCanadian <strong>Avalanche</strong> AssociationForty BelowGearUp Sport (Canmore, AB)IBEX Outdoor ClothingLa SportivaLekiMalden Mills (Polartec)Mountain <strong>Safety</strong> Research (MSR)PatagoniaPetzlPUR Water Purification Products<strong>The</strong> Hostel Shop (Calgary, AB)<strong>The</strong>rm-a-RestTUA SkiYamnuska (Canmore, AB)<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>Box 8040, Canmore,Alberta, <strong>Canada</strong> T1W 2T8Phone # (403) 678-3200Fax # (403) 678-3224alpclub@telusplanet.netwww.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.caDavid Toole, PresidentRod Plasman, SecretaryGord Currie, TreasurerCam Roe, VP ActivitiesPeter Muir, VP Access / EnvironmentJeffrey J. Potter, VP FacilitiesBob Sandford, VP PublicationsDavid Zemrau, VP ServicesBruce Keith, Executive DirectorSubmissions to <strong>The</strong> Gazette are welcome! If possible,please put it on a disk in any common Macintosh orDOS format and include a hard copy. Otherwise, feelfree to type or handwrite your sumbmission, makingsure it’s double-spaced and legible. <strong>The</strong> deadline for theSummer issue <strong>of</strong> the Gazette is April 30 th , 2002. Sendall submissions or “Letters to the Editor” to the addressabove or by email to: Gazette@telusplanet.netGazette Editor: Bonnie HamiltonAssistant Editor: Paul ThompsonPublishing Coordinator: Audrey WheelerLayout & Production: Suzan ChamneyAdvertising Director: Bruce KeithAdvertising rate sheet available upon request.Please direct all advertising inquiries to BruceKeith, National Office (403) 678-3202 or byemail to: bkeith@telusplanet.net<strong>Canada</strong> Post Agreement Number 1649205Thank You Zac Bolan!by R.W. Sandford, Vice-President Publicationsthe last six years, the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> Gazette has continued toOver grow in elegance and content. It now ranks in quality and style with anypublication <strong>of</strong> its kind in the country. <strong>The</strong> man behind the increasing quality <strong>of</strong> the Gazettehas been Zac Bolan. Zac’s committment, design capability, wit and humour have allowedthe Gazette to mature into a full-colour advertisement for the energy and enthusiasm thatare so much a part <strong>of</strong> what is worthwhile about belonging to the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>.Through his hand some <strong>of</strong> the club’s best writers stepped forward to share their experience <strong>of</strong>mountains with a readership <strong>of</strong> more than 7,500 members. Zac also cultivated the razor wit<strong>of</strong> cartoonists like Tami Knight and others who gave the Gazette its insightful humour.In the fall <strong>of</strong> 2001, Mr. Bolan decided to pass the editorial duties for the Gazette tosomeone else. On behalf <strong>of</strong> the Publications Committee and all the members <strong>of</strong> the club, Iwould like to thank Zac for his hard work, wit and commitment to the Gazette and wish himwell in all that he may undertake in the future.<strong>The</strong> new editor <strong>of</strong> the Gazette is Bonnie Hamilton. Bonnie has been a member <strong>of</strong> the<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> for eight years. Over the past five years, she has been a trip leaderwith the Rocky Mountain Section. She has lived for seven years in the Bow Valley and iswell known in the mountaineering community. If you have articles you would like to havepublished in the Gazette, or if you have suggestions about how we can improve this memberservice, please contact Bonnie at Gazette@telusplanet.netWhat’s Inside...4 Message from the Editor4 Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . .Facility Booking Policies - In a Nutshell4 . . . . . . . . . . Not Just an Outhouse5 . . . . . . . . . . Building a Dream6 Mountaineering . . . . . . . . . . .<strong>Avalanche</strong> <strong>Safety</strong>8 . . . . . . . . . . Looking for a Mountain Adventure this Winter?9 . . . . . . . . . . . .<strong>Avalanche</strong> Alert10 . . . . . . . . . . GMC Report - Windy Creek / Remillard11 . . . . . . . . . . Summer Holiday 200112 . . . . . . . . . . Peaks <strong>of</strong> Fire14 Publications . . . . . . . . . . . .International Year <strong>of</strong> the Mountains15 . . . . . . . . . . . .Book Review: Backcountry Huts & Lodges16 . . . . . . . . . . . .Eric Brooks17 . . . . . . . . . . . .<strong>The</strong> Adventurous Spirit Lives On in <strong>The</strong> CAJ17 . . . . . . . . . . ACC Launches Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal Patrons Program18 Awards . . . . . . . . . . 2001 ACC Volunteer Awards18 . . . . . . . . . . New Awards19 . . . . . . . . . . A.O. Wheeler Legacy Award Winner Heather Mortimer20 Grants . . . . . . . . . . . .ACC Financial Grants20 . . . . . . . . . Karl Nagy Memorial Scholarship21 Governance . . . . . . . . . . <strong>The</strong> Board <strong>of</strong> Directors Meeting Highlights22 International . . . . . . . . . . . .Terrible Weather Doesn’t Stop Bravery and Enthusiasm23 National Offi ce . . . . . . . . . . . .National Office News23 Sections . . . . . . . . . . Le Festival D’escalade Sur Glace De Saint-Boniface23 Notices . . . . . . . . . . . .Photo Contest23 Classifi ed AdsWhat's Outside...Front cover: Keith Libeck on St. Nicholas Peak; photo by John DerickFront cover insert: Sylvia Forest on the Wapta Traverse; photo by John DerickBack cover: Chic Scott on approach to Mount Munday; photo by John Derick<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 3
Message from the EditorThrougha coincidental twist <strong>of</strong> events, the opportunity <strong>of</strong> editor has falleninto my lap. Convinced the position would challenge an idlemind, coupled with the fact there’s more room on my plate as my babies become independentpreschoolers, I accepted the <strong>of</strong>fer with trepidation and excitement. I view my new rolemore as a gardener than an editor, tending the literary landscape that Zac Bolan envisioned,planted the seeds for and nurtured to its present state. I plan to keep watering and weeding,in the hopes <strong>of</strong> maintaining the vibrant and unique publication the Gazette has become. <strong>The</strong>local sections are where the grass roots commitment to the ACC lies and I will continue touse the Gazette as a vehicle to share news, events and ideas among the sections, as well asreporting on the national level events. And I encourage you all, as my fellow gardeners, tohelp tend our little gem, by sending articles, photos and comments, so that it may flourish.Bonnie HamiltonNew...Facility BookingPolicies - In a NutshellDon’t forget:● ACC members with the huts upgradecan now book ACC backcountry huts oneyear in advance. All other ACC memberscan book the huts 60 days in advance,and the <strong>Club</strong>house one year in advance.● You will be asked to pay a 10% nonrefundabledeposit at the time <strong>of</strong> bookingany backcountry hut.● <strong>The</strong> cancellation policy for noncommercialsmall groups (7 or less) is 72hours, and for large groups (8 or more) is14 days. <strong>The</strong> policy for commercial smallgroups is 14 days and 30 days for largecommercial groups.● In general, groups are not allowedto exclusively book the <strong>Club</strong>house andthe Bell Cabin simultaneously. We mayconsider such bookings in the low season,but each request will be looked at on a caseby case basis. ACC members will still beallowed access to the showers and kitchenfacilities on a day use basis, provided theyuse the facilities at a time when it doesnot interfere with the overnight guests.● If a booking is made for a longweekend at any ACC facility, groups <strong>of</strong>size eight or larger must book BOTHnights <strong>of</strong> the long weekend (eg. if thelong weekend is Sat-Sun-Mon, the groupmust book both the Saturday and Sundaynights).For detailed information on facilitiesbooking policies, see our website atwww.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca /facilityor email us at alpclub@telusplanet.netor phone us at (403) 678-3200, ext. 1Congratulations to Cyril Shokoples and Karl Klassen for their newroles with the Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG). Cyril is the newPresident <strong>of</strong> the Association, and Karl is the new (and first) Executive Director. <strong>The</strong> ACClooks forward to continuing good relations with the ACMG.Not Just an OuthouseStory and photos by Doug Renniethe main thrustAlthough <strong>of</strong> the StanleyMitchell Work Party’s effort, September 5to 15, 2001, was indeed the new palatialouthouse (pictured above), we didmanage to squeeze in some additional workas well. New bench seats for the hut, arealignment <strong>of</strong> the stairwell to the sleepingl<strong>of</strong>t, and a good start on the new ceiling –tongue and groove pine. As with most workparties in the past, some odds and ends wereleft for subsequent initiatives.Most <strong>of</strong> the first day after arriving wasspent on the excavation <strong>of</strong> the outhouse.<strong>The</strong> design and location are a perfect matchwith the building backed into a hillside toallow for ground floor entry above, and thebarrel storage room below. We were mosthappy to have the lower house floor downbefore the snowfall <strong>of</strong> day three – our only“weather” <strong>of</strong> the entire 10 day period.Project manager Tim Clinton did anexcellent job <strong>of</strong> coordinating our variousefforts. Tim’s a “hands on” guy and was ontop <strong>of</strong> every aspect <strong>of</strong> the project from startto finish. Food and refreshments also workedwell. Everybody took turns cooking andcleaning. We did have some inspirationalspreads!Hours and hours <strong>of</strong> planning, prebuilding,painting, etc. went into this project– but as big an undertaking as it was, itcame <strong>of</strong>f without a hitch. It was a treat to beeven a small part <strong>of</strong> it.Thank you! To everyone involved.Work Party volunteers: Tim Clinton, IainChynoweth, Tom Knott, Virginia Knott,Malcolm Talbot, Howard White, WernerCarsten, Tim Melville, Gabriella Hough,Donovan Hough, Dave Hough, JeffreyPotter, Frank Liszczak and Doug Rennie.Work Crew Ribbon Cutting Ceremony4 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002
Building a DreamBy Audrey Wheeler; Director, <strong>Club</strong> ProgramsAdream has come true for PeterFuhrmann, an <strong>Alpine</strong> Guide who hastraveled in our Rocky Mountains for morethan 30 years. Peter has hiked to the AbbotPass many times and believed a trail wasgreatly needed on the approach from LakeO’Hara, for the enjoyment and safety <strong>of</strong>all mountain travelers in that area. “Sincemountaineering started in the Abbot Passarea in the late 1800s, no onehas ever thought it possible tobuild a trail on that steep anddifficult slope,” according toPeter. That’s where I cameinto the picture, roundingup sixteen keen volunteers inless than two weeks to help build Peter’sdream. I happily agreed because I had adream to see the Abbot Hut knowing itshistorical significance to mountaineeringin <strong>Canada</strong>. It was to be an event and acelebration.On September 15th this enthusiasticcrew <strong>of</strong> trail builders from the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s Rocky Mountain Section met atthe <strong>Alpine</strong> Centre in Lake Louise at 7:00 AMSaturday morning to make their lunches forthat day. <strong>The</strong>re was a lot <strong>of</strong> excited chatterabout this trail building trip over meat andcheese sandwiches being slapped together.<strong>The</strong> enthusiasm was contagious. As Peterdistributed picks and shovels at the LakePeter Furhmann, Audrey Wheeler and happy crew“to accomplishsuch a major taskin two days ishard to believe.”O’Hara Trail head he told us that the <strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong> took over the lease in 1969 for theAbbot Hut, which is located at the top <strong>of</strong>Abbot Pass (2,926m). <strong>The</strong> Hut, built in1922, was in desperate need <strong>of</strong> repair. Peterdecided to restore the Hut when it wassuggested it be burned down. With thehelp <strong>of</strong> four members <strong>of</strong> Banff NationalPark maintenance staff, they replaced thefloor, added a new cedarshingled ro<strong>of</strong>, a new woodstove, insulated the upstairsand painted it. <strong>The</strong> AbbotHut was saved.In August this year Peterapproached the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong>about constructing a safe trail to the Hut.With the support <strong>of</strong> Joe Aucher, LakeO’Hara Warden, and Gerry Isrealson, Back-Country Coordinator, he pre-marked thetrail in late August, hoping that he couldpull the rest <strong>of</strong> the project together soon.As we began our work at the base <strong>of</strong>the scree slope the sun warmed our backswhile we molded a trail where none hadbeen before. It gradually took shape as weprogressed up and up the steep slope to thetop <strong>of</strong> the Pass. One <strong>of</strong> our volunteers, JohnDerick, stashed enough beer in the snowat the first buttress for all <strong>of</strong> us to enjoya cold one and a well deserved break. Aswe approached the top, the route becamephoto by Paul ThompsonSeana Strainphoto by Paul Thompsonsteeper and we became weary, making thefirst glimpse <strong>of</strong> the Hut a welcome sight. Iwas so elated at the view <strong>of</strong> the Hut I totallyforgot about my sore muscles and tired feet;they just weren’t important anymore. I wasat the Abbot Hut.<strong>The</strong>n the feast began with a handwrittenmenu, linen napkins, double cream brie,gourmet pate, smoked oysters, and GoldenCream sherry, followed by Chicken CordonBleu with all the accompaniments, wine andfruit pies. Most <strong>of</strong> us had more difficultytrying to finish this extravagant meal thanwe did shoveling rock all day. We wereunsuccessful in eating all the fruit pies sothey were finished <strong>of</strong>f with our breakfast.By 10:00 AM we were moving moreboulders and shoveling more rock. Peter wasvery impressed as we saw our work fromthe day before, and commented “everyoneworked furiously at it…to accomplish sucha major task in two days is hard tobelieve.” As hikers passed us they cheeredour accomplishment, one commenting thatthe trail was so good he wished he hadbrought his Roller Blades! Peter and I werevery pleased and christened the trail withleftover Riesling. Peter said he was “elatedthat, after so many years and thousands<strong>of</strong> trips by so many people who had aterrible time, now there is a sensible, wellconstructed trail that will serve mountaineerswho love the high alpine.”This was the completion <strong>of</strong> both ourdreams and the beginning <strong>of</strong> new dreamsfor many others who will now be able toascend this slope more safely to discover thelove <strong>of</strong> the alpine.<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 5
<strong>Avalanche</strong> <strong>Safety</strong>:Not just for Snow Geeks!Story & photos by Paul ThompsonIfyou’re involved in an avalanche andthe victims aren’t dug out in lessthan 30 minutes, there’s less than a 50%chance they’ll survive. Since it’s practicallyimpossible for outside help to even getto your location within half an hour, thevictims’ survival depends entirely on you.Are you prepared?<strong>Avalanche</strong> safety training experts agreethere are two main elements to personalavalanche safety: Awareness and RescueSkills. According to Franz Kröll, chiefexaminer for the Austrian mountain guidesassociation, awareness is paramount.6 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002“<strong>Avalanche</strong> awareness is the first level<strong>of</strong> protection. Transceivers can’t stop theavalanche - only the skier’s knowledge andcare keep him out <strong>of</strong> an avalanche.” Andthat is Kröll’s strongest message: the bestway to survive an avalanche is not to be in itin the first place.This is why avalanche safety courseshave become so important. It’s possibleto learn more reliable information in oneweekend than could be learned in yearson your own (assuming you survived longenough!). Based on a curriculum createdby the Canadian <strong>Avalanche</strong> Association,introductory and advanced courses workthrough both theoretical and on-snowpractice in terrain, snow pack and hazardevaluation and search and rescue techniques.Many ACC sections <strong>of</strong>fer avalancheawareness courses for their members, andcommercial organizations <strong>of</strong>fer themregularly also. In addition to backcountryskiers, the courses are being customized forsnowboarders, ice climbers, snowshoers andsnowmobilers as well.As Larry Stanier, a Canmore mountainguide and avalanche forecaster, points out,“just taking courses isn’t enough though.You need to practice these skills <strong>of</strong>ten tohone and improve them.” He recommendssetting up frequent informal transceiversearch practice sessions with friends andski group members, a suggestion followedby a number <strong>of</strong> Sections. <strong>The</strong>se sessionsare appreciated and very well attended!According to Rod Plasman who organizes theRocky Mountain Section’s yearly transceiverpractice session, over 35 members spent theday with four leaders working through allkinds <strong>of</strong> different search scenarios.Backcountry travellers can also usetheir regular trips to practice their terrainand hazard evaluation skills, especially iftravelling with guides or in more experiencedgroups. By frequently discussing routechoices and terrain risks throughout theday, less experienced members <strong>of</strong> the groupcan absorb a huge amount <strong>of</strong> practicalinformation to augment what they’ve learnedin class.“Terrain evaluation is more reliable thansnow pack tests,” says Stanier. “If snowpack test results are at either extreme <strong>of</strong> thesafety scale, they’re usually pretty accurate,but when the results fall somewhere in themiddle, I’m reluctant to rely on them.”Multiple tests on the same slope can yield3 different results, leading Stanier to referto avalanche forecasting as a “black art” asmuch as a science. “Use the CAA <strong>Avalanche</strong>Bulletin”, recommends Stanier. “In it you’llfind information compiled by an extensivenetwork <strong>of</strong> experts using the most currentobservations.” Many backcountry skiers andboarders, when confronted with a Bulletinlisting high or extreme hazard, simply chooseto head to the ski resorts rather than riskhighly unstable terrain.Will proper training and care keep youout <strong>of</strong> avalanches? Unfortunately not. Justask Judy Otton. She and her small group<strong>of</strong> experienced skiers were day touringnear Commonwealth Creek in KananaskisCountry, Alberta late this past December.
“We had taken all the necessary precautions,including consulting the <strong>Avalanche</strong> Bulletinand avoiding high-risk slopes”, reportsOtton. But crossing what appeared to bea safe slope, a slide was triggered. Becausethey had kept a safe distance apart, only two<strong>of</strong> the four were caught, and the remainingtwo were able to keep watch as the trappedskiers were swept down slope. One was onlypartially buried, and was located and dugout quickly. Judy’s husband Saul, however,had been carried into a small terrain trapand buried under several feet <strong>of</strong> snow.“Because we were all wearing transceivers, Iwas able to locate him quickly”, says Otton.Relying on his training, her husband hadthe presence <strong>of</strong> mind to protect his airwayand clear a small breathing space in the snowas the avalanche came to a stop. Visiblyshaking as she describes the fear surgingthrough her while frantically digging himout, Otton makes it clear that withouttraining and practice, the outcome couldhave been much worse. Instead, shaken butunhurt, the group skied out under theirown power.<strong>The</strong>re’s no question that there is aheightened awareness <strong>of</strong> the need foravalanche safety among backcountrytravellers and even the general public.Undoubtedly, a great deal <strong>of</strong> it is due tomedia coverage <strong>of</strong> a number <strong>of</strong> recent highpr<strong>of</strong>ile avalanche accidents, most notablythe death <strong>of</strong> Michel Trudeau in 1998.It is also due to the unstinting efforts<strong>of</strong> the Canadian <strong>Avalanche</strong> Association(www.avalanche.ca)through their outreachprograms like the<strong>Avalanche</strong> Bulletin and<strong>Avalanche</strong> AwarenessDays, held annually onthe second weekend inJanuary at ski areas acrossthe country. “A number<strong>of</strong> ACC sections helpsupport the CAA withdonations which makethese programs possible,” reports PhilipJohnston, marketing and sponsorshipcoordinator for association. “We very muchappreciate your support.”As Larry Stanier points out, the number<strong>of</strong> avalanche fatalities in <strong>Canada</strong> hasn’tincreased dramatically in the last twentyyears, despite the massive increase in thenumber <strong>of</strong> recreational users in thebackcountry, so the education and awarenessprograms must be working. But with themedia promoting more and more extremeskiing and locations, and given that themajority <strong>of</strong> fatal avalanches are started by theskiers themselves, and 75% <strong>of</strong> those killedin avalanches were not wearing transceivers,there’s clearly still more to be done, and it allstarts with personal responsibility.Are you prepared?Larry Stanier demonstrates techniques to Rocky Mountain section trip leaders.<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 7
Looking for a Mountain Adventure this Winter?Photo by John LattaIntro to Winter Skiingand Mountaineering -mini Wapta Traverse❉ February 15 to 18, 2002 (four days)❉ Guide: Peter Amann❉ Camp Manager: Doug Nelson❉ $750 + GST<strong>The</strong> ACC is pleased to <strong>of</strong>fer thisintroductory opportunity - great for thosewho want to learn the basics <strong>of</strong> wintermountaineering or take a refresher toimprove techniques. Instruction will be theemphasis <strong>of</strong> this camp; you will have lots<strong>of</strong> time to practice your new skills daily, Agreat time will be had by all!Ice Climbing Camp,Golden, B.C.❉ March 1 to 5, 2002 (five days)❉ Guide: Todd Craig❉ Assistant Guide: Grant Meekins❉ Camp Manager: David Dornian❉ $750 + GSTGolden is a hidden gem in the iceclimbing world boasting no-approachbeginner routes to expert multi pitchendeavors. <strong>The</strong> staff will take you to hiddenareas where you won’t see a soul. On thiscourse/adventure you will learn to climbeffectively and efficiently on steep ice andlearn all the safety skills involved in thisrapidly growing winter activity. Due to thehigh staff to participant ratio, climbers <strong>of</strong>all levels are invited to sign up - there willbe something for everyone!8 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002<strong>The</strong>reare still a few spots available on the following ACC national trips.Call soon, because they are filling up quickly!Classic Wapta Ski Traverse❉ March 23 to 30, 2002 (seven days)❉ Guide: Peter Amann❉ Camp Manager: Frank Wawrychuk❉ $1195 + GST<strong>The</strong> Wapta Traverse, our members’favourite traverse for budding skimountaineers, provides a great introductionto winter travel in the mountains. Join usto learn the basics, or to improve your skillsand skiing ability. <strong>The</strong> destinations <strong>of</strong> thePeyto, Bow, Balfour and Scott Duncan hutscan’t be beat. Peter, an ever-popular guidewith our members, will provide instructionand guidance to our participants. Frank is anexperienced camp manager who will assistPeter, as well as prepare excellent mountainmeals throughout the week. Several skiascents will be attempted. Don’t miss out!Des Poilus Traverse(Wapta Icefields)❉ March 23 to 30, 2002 (seven days)❉ Guide: Lars Andrews❉ Camp Manager: John Derick❉ $1295 + GSTThis classic traverse allows fortremendous ski touring and mountaineeringopportunities throughout the week. Thistrip will include two nights at the Bow Hut,camping out on the Des Poilus Glacier fortwo nights and then two nights at the StanleyMitchell Hut in the Little Yoho Valley, wherepowder skiing abounds. A real mountainadventure with many opportunities for skiascents and great backcountry skiing. Ifyou have previously completed our WaptaTraverse, this would be a great progressionin your ski mountaineering adventures!Frisby Creek Ski Camp❉ April 13 to 20, 2002 (eight days)❉ Guides: Steve Ludwig &Helen Sovdat❉ Camp Managers: Ron Andrews& Dave Dornian❉ Camp Cook: Lisa Palechuk❉ $1625 + GST<strong>The</strong> ACC will be building on thesuccess <strong>of</strong> last year’s remote ski trip, whichboasted a fully outfitted basecamp, accessedby helicopter. This year we will visit theFrisby Creek area near Revelstoke. <strong>The</strong>terrain will consist <strong>of</strong> both glaciated andnon-glaciated skiing with the opportunityto ascend peaks in the area. As withlast year, the camp will feature a largecooking tent to make your stay morecomfortable. This trip has been designedfor intermediate level backcountry skiers.Our camp staff will form a strong team,having previously served on many highlysuccessful winter trips with the ACC.Clemenceau toColumbia IcefieldsTraverse #2❉ May 4-11, 2002 (eight days)❉ $1295 + GSTDue to overwhelming demand, we arepleased to <strong>of</strong>fer a second Clemenceau toColumbia Icefields traverse this spring.For a maximum <strong>of</strong> 6 participants andtwo staff, this demanding ski traversewill take participants through the mostoutstanding glaciated geography in theCanadian Rockies. <strong>The</strong> Tusk Glacier at thebase <strong>of</strong> Mt. Clemenceau (3658m/12,000')will be reached by ski plane. Ascents <strong>of</strong>several 11,000 foot-plus peaks will beattempted on the ensuing traverse.Planning your summer holidays?As usual, the ACC is <strong>of</strong>fering a slate <strong>of</strong> interesting, unusual and very fun summermountain adventures. Clemenceau Icefields, Glacier Circle, Tonquin Valley, Lake O’Hara,Valley <strong>of</strong> Ten Peaks, Icefall Lake, Gold Range, Yoho Valley, and the Wapta Icefields are some<strong>of</strong> the places we will visit in the summer <strong>of</strong> 2002. <strong>The</strong>re is a trip for everyone who lovesclimbing and hiking in the mountains.Formore details on any <strong>of</strong> the above trips, view our website atwww.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca and follow the links to Mountain Adventures.Alternatively, call Shannon Dick at the ACC’s national <strong>of</strong>fice (403) 678-3200, ext. 112 oremail her at accprogs@telusplanet.netBackground photo by David Jones
AVALANCHE ALERT!by Bruce Keith, Executive DirectorAsthis newsletter went to press,we became aware <strong>of</strong> a situationthat should concern every member <strong>of</strong> the<strong>Club</strong> and the Canadian mountaineeringcommunity: the Canadian <strong>Avalanche</strong>Association (CAA) in Revelstoke, BC, hasbeen told it may lose the $37,500 in BCgovernment funding it uses to support itsPublic <strong>Avalanche</strong> Bulletin service. <strong>The</strong>CAA has indicated that, should the BCgovernment funding not continue, it isa very real possibility that it will have toeliminate the service as early as mid-winterthis year.<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>, whichprovides financial support to the CAA,believes the Bulletin is an essential publicsafety service, and that it’s elimination wouldhave a serious negative impact on all alpinebackcountry users and the mountaineeringcommunity. Lives will be unnecessarily lost!In addition, the money the BC governmentmight “save” each year through the fundingcuts would be more than used up onavalanche search and rescue missions thatwill be unnecessary if the service stayed inplace.We strongly urge you to email, call orwrite to those in the BC government withdecision-making authority and encouragethem to reconsider their planned fundingcuts. <strong>The</strong> CAA is not just looking forgovernment handouts. If necessary, it isfully prepared to look at a partnershiparrangement in which the governmentcontinues to provide funding and theCAA raises new matching funds from themountaineering community.A list <strong>of</strong> email addresses for key BCgovernment decision makers is shownbelow. If you’d prefer to phone or write theseindividuals, please get in touch with theNational Office for the applicable contactinformation.As well, please contact applicabledecision makers in the Alberta governmentto encourage them to consider providingfinancial support for the Bulletin servicePhoto by Suzan Chamney- it is estimated that approximately 42%<strong>of</strong> those that currently use the service areAlbertans, yet the Alberta government doesnot provide any funding support to theCAA.Finally, contact federal governmentdecision makers as well - the feds provideno financial support to the CAA, yet thepublic safety aspects <strong>of</strong> the Bulletin serviceare no different than similar services the fedsprovide to such other groups as boaters andpilots.BC GOVERNMENT CONTACTSHon. Gordon Campbell, Premieremail: premier@gov.bc.caHon. Michael DeJong, Minister <strong>of</strong> Forests(currently provides $5,000 in funding)email: mike.dejong.mla@leg.bc.caHon. Rich Coleman, Minister <strong>of</strong> Public<strong>Safety</strong> and Solicitor General (currentlyprovides $20,000 in funding)email: SG.Minister@gems1.gov.bc.caHon. Stan Hagen, Minister <strong>of</strong> SustainableResource Management (currently provides$2,500 in funding through its “BC Assetsand Land Corporation”, or BCAL - seebelow)email: stan.hagen.mla@leg.bc.caMr. Bill Valentine, President and CEO,BCAL (and Deputy Minister <strong>of</strong> SustainableResource Management)email: BCALinfo@gems1.gov.bc.caHon. Joyce Murray, Minister <strong>of</strong> Water,Land & Air Protection (currently provides$10,000 in funding)email: joyce.murray.mla@leg.bc.ca<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 9
2001 - GMC Report - Windy Creek / Remillardby Brad HarrisonAugust21, the skies were clearbut storm clouds werebuilding to the West. We were going to tryto get a couple more days <strong>of</strong> climbing inbut the weather forecast was grim at best.Eric Unterberger, manager <strong>of</strong> the CMHAdamant Lodge, had generously allowed usto use their 212 at short notice. Thanks to alot <strong>of</strong> hard work by my excellent tear downcrew and yeoman service provided by the5th week participants on their last day, thecamp was ready to move in a few hours.Seven weeks <strong>of</strong> another GMC were aboutto come to an abrupt end. It was a goodsummer, the campsite was sweet and theclimbing different, but interesting. <strong>The</strong> stoicfolks <strong>of</strong> the 1st week were inspirational,suffering through dismal weather with everpresentlaughter and smiles, while the wellbarbecuedpeople in weeks 4 and 5 wouldhave appreciated an hour or two <strong>of</strong> the rain.It is impossible to thank all the people whomade the GMC engine run.<strong>The</strong> amateur leaders, cooks, guides andcoordinators all worked their butts <strong>of</strong>fto satisfy the individual requests <strong>of</strong> eachparticipant; not always an easy task, but theymanage to get it done with a smile. DonMcTighe and the staff at <strong>Alpine</strong> Helicoptersprovided us with reliable, accommodatingand safe service. CMH generously allowedus to dominate the Remillard area for 6weeks <strong>of</strong> prime time. Windy Creek is one<strong>of</strong> the most important summer use areas intheir operations.10 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002On July 6th, 2002 a train <strong>of</strong> six orseven overloaded pickups will be snaking upthe Bigmouth Creek Forest Service Road,the final destination <strong>of</strong> their payloads beinga campsite just west <strong>of</strong> the Trident andMt. Neptunephoto by David JonesNeptune peaks. This is where the 2002GMC will take place. <strong>The</strong> mountains areremote, and have entertained very fewvisitors. <strong>The</strong> west summit <strong>of</strong> the 10,264'Mt.Trident has been climbed twice. <strong>The</strong> firstascent was in 1937 by C.Hasler, K.Gardner,L.Guest and Ed Feuz and seconded in 1989by the KMC. <strong>The</strong> south summit has beenclimbed once in 1951 by T. Scudder. TridentTower, to the north remains unclimbed.<strong>The</strong> variety <strong>of</strong> routes is endless. As well as anumber <strong>of</strong> longer technical challenges, thereare many pleasant, shorter and non-technicalroutes near the camp. <strong>The</strong>re isn’t muchbeta about this area so drop me an email(colwest@telus.net) if you are interested inlearning more about the local routes. Manythanks to David Jones for the information Ihave gathered from his enormous collection<strong>of</strong> data. Check out his new guidebook,Selkirks South which is informative and amust-have for Alpinists. I believe SelkirksNorth will be out soon.Before providing a summary <strong>of</strong> successfulclimbs for this summer’s GMC, I want toleave you with two quotes. I didn’t have mypocket recorder, so they aren’t exact, but Ibelieve I have captured the general gist.“<strong>The</strong> GMC validates each and everyparticipant; everybody’s opinion is worthsomething, we all feel like we belong.”— Doug Craig.After having a t-slot (he didn’t build)blow, Dave Dornian slid all the way downa benign slope and, as he passed his ropeteam, calmly said, “Off belay.”MountainParties / Participants Parties / Participants Parties / ParticipantsRemillard - 2881m/9450' SE Ridge SE Glacier E. Ridge3 / 11 17 / 97 1 / 4Craw - 2637m/8649' Craw Notch N. Ridge WSW Ridge2 / 6 11 / 61 1 / 4Foxtrot - 2550m/8364'W. Ridge13 / 89Serendipity- 2857m/9371'OK Glacier13 / 98Yardarm - 2644m/8738'SE Ramp14 / 101ACC - 2347m/7700'E Ramp11 / 63Bravo - 2750m/9020'S. Ramp7 / 55Courthouse - 2595m/8511' NE Ridge W Ridge6 / 23 3 / 17Echo - 2990m/9151' NW Ramp E RidgeWhiteface Tower - 2829m/9279'Wart - Half Dome - ACC Traverse 3 / 23Remillard - Wart - Half Dome - ACC Traverse 1 / 47 / 31 3 / 11N. Ridge1 / 3
Summer Holidays 2001by Rob WilsonHavingenjoyed participatingin <strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s General Mountaineering Campin the summers <strong>of</strong> 1994 and 1998, I againhad the itch to go on another mountain triplast July 2001.<strong>The</strong> 2001 climbing area was located atWindy Creek in the Remillard Group <strong>of</strong> theSelkirk Mountains, one range west <strong>of</strong> theRockies. After driving two hours north <strong>of</strong>Revelstoke, to the helicopter staging area,climbers and personal gear were air liftedto the Windy Creek area where base camphad been set up at an elevation <strong>of</strong> 6000feet. At this elevation, tree line ends andgives way to <strong>Alpine</strong> meadows, rock, snow,glaciers and mountaintops. This remote andseldom visited area would be our home forthe next week. I unpacked my personal gear,and after a dinner <strong>of</strong> soup, salad, pasta andapple crisp prepared by the camp cooks, Isettled into my tent for the night lookingforward to a week <strong>of</strong> mountain climbing.Sunday I awoke to overcast skies andjoined five others who signed up the nightbefore to climb a moderate peak we called“ACC”. We headed up through the meadowsfollowing Windy Creek to reach a pointwhere we could scramble up a 700 footheadwall to make the ridge which wouldgive us access to the summit <strong>of</strong> our chosenpeak. After a rest break under clearing skies,we climbed the ridge which kept gettingsteeper the closer we got to the summit,requiring use <strong>of</strong> a climbing rope in twoplaces. We all arrived safely at the summitjust before noon. On completion <strong>of</strong> lunchand a noon radio call to base camp, wescrambled down the rock ridge and uponreaching the meadows below the ridge,sunned ourselves for an hour before headingback to camp. We arrived in time for aSunday dinner <strong>of</strong> soup, salad, Chinese stylechicken, rice & veggie main dish, followedby fresh strawberries and cream.Beginning to feel acclimatized by thenext day I signed up for a more strenuousclimb requiring glacier and rock climbingskills. Glacier mountain travel is a passionthat keeps me returning to the mountains.This day was no exception to past climbingtrips, and I enjoyed the glacier we had toclimb to reach the summit ridge whichwould lead us to the top. After anotherfull day under sunny skies, we returned tocamp for a dinner <strong>of</strong> roast beef and a tastydessert.We awoke to rain on Tuesday and allclimbing trips in the area were cancelled.Roger, a certified ACMG (Association<strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain Guides) and apr<strong>of</strong>essional photographer, conducted aphoto / camera clinic in the dining tentduring the morning, and in the afternoonPeter, the other ACMG guide in camp,conducted a refresher clinic on map, compassand GPS skills. This was the only badweather day we had the whole week.Wednesday, with a 4:30 AM start, Iwent on to climb Mt. Remillard the majorpeak in the area which required sometechnical climbing skills, returning to camplate that night and a late dinner <strong>of</strong> ham,spinach quiche and blueberry pie. Thursday,I decided to climb on my own and scrambledup a peak called Yardarm. I took advantage<strong>of</strong> being alone and was able to take pictures<strong>of</strong> the mountain scenery at my leisure,including Mt. Remillard on the other side<strong>of</strong> the valley. Dinner at the end <strong>of</strong> this daywas turkey with all the trimmings. It wastruly a day <strong>of</strong> “thanksgiving” as the weatherSelf portrait by Rob Wilsoncontinued to be flawless. I crawled into mysleeping bag that night saddened the nextday would be the last day <strong>of</strong> climbing in thisbeautiful alpine area.Friday I joined a group and, after adifficult morning <strong>of</strong> climbing and routefinding, we decided to split into two groups.One group climbed a peak close by calledEcho. <strong>The</strong> other smaller group, <strong>of</strong> which Iwas a part, went on to climb peaks Tangoand Serendipity. After a short rest on top <strong>of</strong>Serendipity, we retraced our steps to climbover Tango again, in order to go on toclimb Echo, and then drop down the otherside, eventually leading us back to camp.Needless to say we had another long, butperfect day <strong>of</strong> climbing, reaching camp late,but learning the camp had delayed dinneruntil our arrival. It was appreciated by all,as this was our last dinner in camp beforeflying out the next day. Each day the cookskept outdoing themselves and this was noexception, making our last feast a MexicanDinner.Saturday, our fly out day, we awoketo rain and overcast skies and a threat <strong>of</strong>staying at least another night in camp. Butafter close to a three hour delay, Don, thehelicopter pilot, was able to fly a longer anddifferent route to reach our camp, where, bylate Saturday, he was able to get all <strong>of</strong> us outand the new incoming group into camp.Will I do it again? I’ve heard that militarypeople say Navy retire and go “groundpounding”, Army retire and take up sailing.I have witnessed this, and I am no exception,as I retired after serving thirty-four yearsin the Navy. Also, this was the year Istarted collecting my OAP (meaning OldAge Pension to the very young!). As longas I can train, prepare for and enjoy themountains, I keep telling myself, “Yes, I willdo it one more time.”<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 11
Peaks <strong>of</strong> FireClimbing Mexico’s VolcanoesStory and photosby Kathia Voyer and Nadia Bonenfantsunny Mexico. <strong>The</strong>re wasHot, nothing that compared to thetropical flowers, snowy peaks and friendlypeople. What a great feeling to step <strong>of</strong>f theplane and seize the different smells, colours,smiles, all melting into the slow pace <strong>of</strong> life.Upon our arrival, we decided not tospend any time in the big city, so after twodays we headed to our first climb, VolcanNevado de Toluca. This was a great climbto acclimatize on before heading to highervolcanoes, it is also well renowned for its twobeautiful Laguna lakes. After an afternoon<strong>of</strong> hiking we arrived to what they call“Aubergue Alpino”. It was a festive day inMexico, and to our surprise all the city folkswere in the foothills enjoying the clean, freshair. We spent the night on the rolling greenhills and climbed to the craters the nextday. Mission one accomplished, we headedtowards El Pico de Orizaba.<strong>The</strong> town <strong>of</strong> Puebla was a great strategicarea to base trips from. It was in the middle<strong>of</strong> the two climbs we had planned, hotelswere cheap, the food was good and thesupermarket had everything needed for ourexpeditions. We spent a few days organizing12 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002Mount Popocatepetleverything, shopping and packing the food.From here we took a bus to a small villagecalled Tlachichuca, a town nestled in thefoothills <strong>of</strong> El Pico. We arranged a shuttleto get in and out <strong>of</strong> the valley. Servimont, aclimbing company, was based out <strong>of</strong> an oldsoap factory and ran 4x4s to get us to ourstarting point. After a bumpy two hour ridethey left us in what looked like the AfricanSavanna; we camped in the upper part <strong>of</strong>the valley before heading up to base campthe next day. Acclimatization here was thekey.As we slowly rose over the grassy hills, wehad the most powerful, unimaginable view<strong>of</strong> the Pico, <strong>The</strong> Giant in the Clouds, as thelocals call him. It was really fascinating towalk through the many geo-climatic zones.One day we were escaping the venomoussnakes and the next we heard the crunching<strong>of</strong> snow under our feet. Both <strong>of</strong> us feltstrongly about the mountains, and theenergy we experienced on this section <strong>of</strong> ourtrip was unexplainable. We arrived at PiedraGrande, with Pico sleeping in the clouds,above our heads. Although this was the rainyseason and climbs got more challenging, wemet other climbing parties from Europe,South America and the USA. It was greatto exchange information on climbs andtraditions from other areas <strong>of</strong> the world.Part <strong>of</strong> our plan was to spend two nightsat Base Camp at 4200 meters. We hikedback down to the forest and back up again.This worked out well for both <strong>of</strong> us and sowe decided to climb to high camp on daythree. Situated at 4600 meters, it <strong>of</strong>fered agreat view <strong>of</strong> the valley, but unless it wascrystal clear, it was hard to see the routeup the peak. Over the next few hours wejust got dumped on. We had been observingthe weather patterns and it was similar everyday. We knew the best time was from themiddle <strong>of</strong> the night until 10:00 AM in themorning.That night, many prayers went out to themountain gods, at 2:00 AM in the morning,we started to climb. It was a full moon sowe didn’t even need our headlamps. We feltlike astronauts on the moon, we scrambledup through a couloir and reached the foot <strong>of</strong>the glacier at 4:30 AM. We roped up, donnedour crampons and started the ascent. Thiswas where we struggled to describe ouremotions, the energy flowed through ourcold bodies, and we felt freedom, liveliness,the unknown, and the intangible. Awestruckby the shimmering snow and the full moon,we climbed and climbed in the fresh newsnow, switched leads the whole way up.It was special to be two good friends andfeeling the beauty and the power <strong>of</strong> themountain.We learned two things here. In themountains, one needs good weather anda great partner. As we ascended, we hadthe full moon on our right side and theawakening sun shining on our left. It wasthe perfect balance; the pureness <strong>of</strong> life.<strong>The</strong> clouds filled the valley below and wewere the only two beings on the peak.<strong>The</strong> colours were so rich with the new dayand Pico shone in its entire splendor. <strong>The</strong>summit felt so close, yet it was still far away.We didn’t talk much that morning but weknew how fulfilling this experience was. <strong>The</strong>air was thinner and our legs heavier, but wewent on. We finally reached the top at 5,600meters and looked down into the vast sleepycrater. So much emotion and exhaustion! Astears <strong>of</strong> joy rolled down our cold cheeks,we knew this was only the start <strong>of</strong> manyadventures to come. This was our steppingstoneto other mountains <strong>of</strong> the world. Wesnapped a few shots and started down. Atthis point in the morning, the sun wasreally hot and the new snow was rollingon the slope. Our crampons were likecookie cutters, and the visibility started to
deteriorate. It was a tricky descent and it feltlike the altitude had caught up to us. Westopped and stayed hydrated, but we weremoving much slower and the fatigue wasinvading our bodies. We knew that keepinga good pace was the key, and so after afew hours in the thick clouds, we reachedthe bottom <strong>of</strong> the glacier. We followed ourtracks back to high camp and enjoyed thesnowy afternoon with a deep sleep.After climbing El Pico de Orizaba, weheaded back to Puebla to recharge ourbatteries, shop and pack for our last climb.Iztaccihuatl is a 5,230-meter peak known as<strong>The</strong> Sleeping Lady and is part <strong>of</strong> the Popo-Ixta National Park. Popocatepetl erupted inDecember and so both mountain accesseswere closed. We knew that climbing partieswere still able to get to the trailhead, and sowe decided to give it a try. After spendinga few days in the town <strong>of</strong> Amecameca, wefound a taxi driver willing to take us tothe park gate. He warned us, and said thatwe would probably not be able to enterthe park, but we chanced it anyway. It wasa surprise when we realized that our taxidriver was a friend <strong>of</strong> the military guardwho worked at the park entrance. After afew minutes <strong>of</strong> a Mexican stand-<strong>of</strong>f theydecided to let us pass. We got a ride all theway to La Joya, our starting point for theclimb. We arranged for a pick up date andsimply hoped that good karma would makehim return here at the end <strong>of</strong> the week.<strong>The</strong> National Park was absolutelymagical. Tropical flowers and cactuses, two5,000 meter peaks, green rolling hills andbeautiful rock walls lined the valley. Westarted climbing that morning and ended upspending the night on a col. <strong>The</strong>re was lots<strong>of</strong> wind, but the weather was holding. Thatnight we fell asleep to the sound <strong>of</strong> howlingwolves from the valley below. <strong>The</strong> nextmorning, we woke up to the shimmeringsun and kept climbing up towards a hutthat was situated at 4,750 meters. <strong>The</strong>rock formations <strong>of</strong>fered many opportunitiesfor bouldering. We reached the hut in theafternoon and scouted the rest <strong>of</strong> the routethat was visible from here. <strong>The</strong> weatherturned bad overnight and so we waitedanother day before climbing again. <strong>The</strong>second night in the hut, we went for it.It was clear and chilly as we started ourascent. We climbed the “knees” known asLos Rodillas, which then lead us to the“belly”, La Barriga. By that time, the sunwas rising and again many emotions were inthe air.<strong>The</strong> sky was so clear we were able tosee el Pico de Orizaba, Popo and its trail<strong>of</strong> smoke, and the morning lights <strong>of</strong> busyMexico City. Ixta was a great mountainbecause it had a less direct route than theother ones we climbed. Lots <strong>of</strong> variationscould be done and it was more challenging.<strong>The</strong>re were three false summits to get overbefore reaching the top, known as the“breast”, El Pecho. <strong>The</strong> terrain varied fromalpine style rock to glacier travel. <strong>The</strong> viewfrom up here was magnificent and onceagain there was an unbelievable feelingwhen we reached the top. We stayed on thesummit for a while and contemplated thevalley below. We were surprised to see howwell our bodies responded at high altitude.We recapped about how lucky we were tohave been given the chance to experiencethe mountains <strong>of</strong> Mexico. <strong>The</strong> next day, wedescended to the col where we spent thenight dreaming <strong>of</strong> other trips to come.<strong>The</strong> hike to the valley floor provided timeto reflect on the month spent in Mexico. Wewere full <strong>of</strong> energy and appreciation for thetrip we had lived, and for the mountains.<strong>The</strong> morning was so clear and the colours sobright. We had accomplished our goals andit was an unforgettable feeling. On our lastmorning, walking back to the meeting spotthat we had arranged with our taxi driverthe week before, we rounded the bend atthe end <strong>of</strong> the road and we saw Pedro. Wesmiled and got in the car. When we left thevalley that day, we realized how perfect ourjourney was and knew that someone waswatching over us. Thank you Jen.We would like to Thank:<strong>The</strong> ACC for the Jen Higgins Fund grant, theHiggins family, Valhalla Pure, Wild Roses,Pat & Baiba Morrow, University College <strong>of</strong>the Cariboo.Nadia & Kathia with Mount Iztaccihuatl in the background<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 13
<strong>The</strong> International Year <strong>of</strong> MountainsCelebrates the ACCby R.W. Sandford, Vice-President PublicationsThoughthe decision cameat the last moment,<strong>Canada</strong> is making a significant commitmentto the celebration <strong>of</strong> the United NationsInternational Year <strong>of</strong> Mountains in 2002.This celebration is being mounted by Parks<strong>Canada</strong> through its heritage tourism strategyinitiative in and around national parksin Western and Northern <strong>Canada</strong>. <strong>The</strong>Canadian International Year <strong>of</strong> Mountainscelebration will involve considerable focuson the role <strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> hasplayed in helping <strong>Canada</strong> become one <strong>of</strong>the world’s foremost alpine nations.Through this celebration, a broad range<strong>of</strong> partners interested in mountainecosystems and watersheds will have theopportunity translate the UN globalobjectives into messages Canadians andtheir guests can understand and appreciate.<strong>The</strong>se messages include the importance <strong>of</strong>mountain places to global ecological andcultural heritage, the fragility <strong>of</strong> mountainenvironments and resources and the necessity<strong>of</strong> sustainable approaches to mountaindevelopment.This initiative will also celebrate howCanadians are working to ensure ecologicaland commemorative integrity in ourmountain communities and in and aroundour mountain national parks, provincialparks, protected places and multiple useforest areas.<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> is planninga number <strong>of</strong> events associated with theCanadian International Year <strong>of</strong> Mountainscelebration. Section trips and eventsthroughout the country will focus on Year<strong>of</strong> Mountains themes. Special nationalinitiatives will include an ACC hostedcelebration at Wheeler Hut on July 27 th ,2002 that will mark the birthplace <strong>of</strong>Canadian mountaineering. <strong>The</strong>International Year <strong>of</strong> Mountains will alsobe a featured theme at the MountainGuides’ Ball in the fall <strong>of</strong> 2002. UIAAPresident Ian McNaught Davis will be thePatron <strong>of</strong> the ball. <strong>The</strong> Canadian Centrefor Mountaineering will be <strong>of</strong>fering Summit<strong>Club</strong> outings in <strong>Canada</strong> for the German<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> in celebration <strong>of</strong> the IYM.<strong>The</strong> ACC’s services group will be publishinga special edition <strong>of</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> Accidents in<strong>Canada</strong> next year and, in honour <strong>of</strong> theInternational Year <strong>of</strong> Mountains and theCentennial <strong>of</strong> the American <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong>, thepublications committee will be launching amajor book on the climbing adventures <strong>of</strong>A.J. Ostheimer in <strong>Canada</strong> during the 1920s.This important historical account will bepublished in March <strong>of</strong> 2002.Look for the International Year <strong>of</strong>Mountains logo on the Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong>Journal and check your section events forspecial IYM programming. <strong>The</strong> OttawaSection will be celebrating the InternationalYear <strong>of</strong> Mountains with a special slidepresentation by Barry Blanchard Slide Showand Mountain Photography Awards. <strong>The</strong>Vancouver Island section is devoting itsSummer Camp to International Year <strong>of</strong>Mountain themes. If you find yourself inVancouver this summer, be sure to see thedisplay <strong>of</strong> mountain art at the VancouverArt Gallery. As well there will be museumdisplays and special programming throughthe mountain national parks.If you would like to get involved,please visit <strong>Canada</strong>’s International Year <strong>of</strong>Mountains website atwww.year<strong>of</strong>mountains.caIf you would like further informationcontact your section chair or Mike Mortimerat mikemortimer@attglobal.net14 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002
Book ReviewBackcountry Huts & Lodges <strong>of</strong> the Rockies and Columbiasby Lynn MartelPicka page, any page and thenplan a dream trip.If ever there was a wish book forbackcountry enthusiasts, this is the one.Backcountry Huts & Lodges <strong>of</strong> the Rockiesand Columbias, by Jim Scott, is acomprehensive guidebook to every hut, yurt,igloo, chalet, cabin, shelter and lodge in theRockies and the interior ranges <strong>of</strong> BC.Scott, a college instructor and authorwho has been hiking, skiing and climbingin the Rockies and Columbias for most <strong>of</strong>his life, has methodically organized his bookinto an information packed catalogue <strong>of</strong>places to experience the fondest mountainmemories <strong>of</strong> anyone’s life.Each entry provides the hut’s location,including topo map coordinates, accessroutes for winter or summer, capacityand cost. As well, amenities such ascookstoves, woodstoves, propane or solarlighting fixtures, or in some cases - the lackthere<strong>of</strong>, are carefully listed.Treasured hideaways range from thespartan four-person Sapphire Col Shelter,perched at 2590 metres at the head <strong>of</strong>the Asulkan Valley in Rogers Pass, whichboasts neither heat, cooking nor lightingfacilities, to Canadian Mountain Holidays’Bugaboos Lodge which once hosted PierreElliot Trudeau who was pampered likeall CMH guests with massages, hot tubs,gourmet meals and helicopter assisted skiing,hiking or mountaineering.<strong>The</strong> true gems in this book are thescarcely heard <strong>of</strong>, hard work to get to,remote and unspoiled mountain huts sittingon the shores <strong>of</strong> glacier fed lakes, or tuckedinto high alpine meadows a full day’s hike orski away from the nearest unpaved road.Naiset Cabins in Assiniboine ProvincialPark, Olive Hut, a stone shelter planted ona granite rib near the Catamount Glacier orthe fabled <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s (ACC)Fairy Meadows hut, prized for its proximityto spectacular skiing, are the true gems <strong>of</strong>this guidebook.Backcountry Huts & Lodges bears theACC logo and the <strong>Club</strong>’s graciousendorsement. Scott, who has served severalstints as hut custodian, credits FacilitiesFairy Meadow Hutphoto by Nancy HansenDirector Nancy Hansen in his introductionfor her assistance in ensuring that all ACChut descriptions are as accurate as possible.Scott also employs a sense <strong>of</strong> humour whenprudent, suggesting in the introductionthat users “read between the lines in thedescriptions” <strong>of</strong> huts and cabins that evokeadjectives such as, “ ‘a bit dilapidated’ ‘rustic’or ‘primitive’”.As an added bonus, Scott included a fewvaluable extras, including GPS coordinatesfor those packing the latest in technologyalongside their trail mix, as well as contactinformation for forest service, provincialand national park <strong>of</strong>fices. A sentimentaltouch is achieved with the inclusion <strong>of</strong> “InMemoriam: Recently Defunct Huts,” whichserves to remind the reader just how muchthese basic structures can add to anyone’smost cherished backcountry memories.In Backcountry Huts & Lodges, Scotthas created a book that is filled with the aura<strong>of</strong> cozy log cabins covered in snow piledas high as the windows, the wood stovesfilling the air with the sweet scent <strong>of</strong> pine,and memories <strong>of</strong> mountain adventures thatalways leave a visitor wanting more.Backcountry Huts & Lodges <strong>of</strong> theRockies & Columbias, by Jim Scott, 287pages, Johnson Gorman publishers, isavailable through the ACC NationalOffice at (403) 678-3200 ext. 1 and ourOnline store at:www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 15
Eric Brooks Passes AwayIt was with great sadness that the <strong>Club</strong> learned <strong>of</strong> the passing <strong>of</strong> Eric Brooks, one <strong>of</strong> ourlife and honorary members, in May <strong>of</strong> last year at the age <strong>of</strong> 97.Apart from being a highly respected mountaineer in his day, Eric served the <strong>Club</strong> in avariety <strong>of</strong> capacities from the time he joined in 1929. Notable milestones in his associationwith the ACC were:1937: Silver Rope for Leadership Award1938-1941: Vice President1941-1947: President1947-1952: Honorary Secretary1954- 1964: Honorary President1969: Became an Honorary Member1995: Presented with the A. O. Wheeler Legacy AwardA full obituary will appear in the 2002 Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal.Few members have made such a significant contribution to the <strong>Club</strong> over such aprolonged period <strong>of</strong> time. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Club</strong> extends its sincere condolences to the Brooks family.But Eric’s contribution to the <strong>Club</strong> was not restricted to his lifetime. As part <strong>of</strong> hisestate, Eric bequeathed $50,000 to the <strong>Club</strong> on the condition that the annual investmentincome be used to support the publication <strong>of</strong> the ACC’s Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal - <strong>Canada</strong>’s<strong>of</strong>ficial record <strong>of</strong> mountaineering, published annually since 1907. David Toole, NationalACC President, said, “This generous gift will stay with the <strong>Club</strong> in perpetuity, and willhelp to provide current and future generations <strong>of</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal readers with a continuinghigh quality publication on Canadian mountaineering accomplishments. Through hisforethought, Eric has left a permanent legacy <strong>of</strong> significant benefit to the <strong>Club</strong> and itsmembers.”<strong>The</strong>se types <strong>of</strong> bequests, sometimes referred to as “Planned Giving”, allow the <strong>Club</strong>to accomplish many things that would otherwise be difficult or impossible. <strong>The</strong>y canalso provide substantial income tax savings to the donor and his/her estate. Any memberinterested in discussing a planned gift or donation to the <strong>Club</strong> can do so on a confidentialbasis by contacting Bruce Keith, Executive Director, in the National Office at (403)678-3202, or by email: bkeith@telusplanet.net16 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002
<strong>The</strong> Adventurous Spirit Lives On in<strong>The</strong> Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journalby Audrey Wheeler; Director, <strong>Club</strong> Programs<strong>The</strong> adventurous spirit lives in thosewho wonder.<strong>The</strong> Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal (CAJ) is acollection <strong>of</strong> pages full <strong>of</strong> mystery, adventure,hot editorials, mountain culture, history andawesome photos <strong>of</strong> personal triumphs in themountains. Climbers challenge their fearsand allow their dreams <strong>of</strong> adventure to drawthem into the backcountry and up to themountaintops. <strong>The</strong> reasons for their exploitslie in the heart <strong>of</strong> each climber. <strong>The</strong>ir storiesare told in the Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal;beneath the words are the dreams and fearsthat made their expeditions a reality.My most recent adventure was skiing tothe top <strong>of</strong> Mount Gordon (3,203m.), myhighest peak thus far. I’m not the first to doit, nor the fastest, and I didn’t do with onearm tied behind my back. I did it because Iwondered if I could and just happened to bein the neighborhood. It was thrilling for me.It’s precisely this feeling that inspires thestories that are recorded in the Canadian<strong>Alpine</strong> Journal.Published annually by the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> since 1907, the Journals recordmountaineering experiences <strong>of</strong> their day andare truly priceless accounts <strong>of</strong> our history inthe mountains. <strong>The</strong> dusty covers <strong>of</strong> the earlyfabric bound journals have evolved into thefull colour glossy magazine style that wenow publish. Currently, contributors submittheir articles to Ge<strong>of</strong>f Powter, our volunteereditor for the past 10 years. He gets morematerial than any issue can possibly swallowand chooses well-written articles about ourongoing yearning to explore. We exploreourselves, our personal limits.As I was settling into my <strong>of</strong>fice inthe new addition at the National OfficeACC Launches Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong>Journal Patrons ProgramInspiredby the generousdonation from theestate <strong>of</strong> Eric Brooks, the <strong>Club</strong> hasannounced the creation <strong>of</strong> the “CAJ PatronsProgram”. <strong>The</strong> intention <strong>of</strong> the programis to encourage members and others to“make a difference” by becoming financialsupporters <strong>of</strong> the publication during theirlifetime.Patrons can choose to pledge supportfor a single year, or opt to make an annualcommitment over a longer period. <strong>The</strong>minimum pledge is $250 per year, with noupper limit. All patrons and their donationamount will be acknowledged on the frontinside cover <strong>of</strong> the Journal (unless otherwiserequested), and all donations are eligible forincome tax receipts.In launching the program, Bob Sandford,VP Publications said, “Since it was firstpublished in 1907, the CAJ has assumeda very special role in the heritage <strong>of</strong>the <strong>Club</strong> and the history <strong>of</strong> Canadianmountaineering. <strong>The</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> this newprogram is to ensure sufficient financialsupport in the years ahead and to guaranteeits well deserved reputation as a high quality,inspiring publication.”If you would like to become a CAJPatron, please contact Bruce Keith, ExecutiveDirector, without delay, by telephone(403)-678-3202, emailbkeith@telusplanet.net, or mail to theNational Office. <strong>The</strong> deadline for finalisingthe 2002 CAJ is fast approaching, and yourdonation will make a difference!Photo by David Moe<strong>Club</strong>house, I happened upon a box with afull set <strong>of</strong> CAJs. Thumbing through the firstissues, I felt inspired to further pursue myown adventures and privileged to be part <strong>of</strong>such an historic club.Experience it for Yourself !<strong>The</strong> Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal isavailable in many different ways:● as an add-on option to yourmembership. At $23 including GSTand shipping (Canadian residentsonly), this is the least expensive wayto satisfy your CAJ cravings! Call theNational Office at (403) 678-3200 ext.1, or email us at: alpclub@telusplanet.net and ask for the CAJ Option to beadded to your membership.● on a retail basis, either:● at the Canmore <strong>Club</strong>house, or● at participating retail stores.<strong>The</strong> 2002 Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journalwill be available in early June, andthere are still some 2001 CAJs forsale. For past issues <strong>of</strong> the CAJ, pleasecontact the National Office for priceand availability.<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 17
2001 ACC Volunteer AwardsDueto the extraordinary number <strong>of</strong> ACC Service awards presented at last year’sAGM, biographies <strong>of</strong> the award recipients have had to be split over severalGazettes. You can view the complete list <strong>of</strong> award recipients and their biographies on thewebsite at www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/awards/recent.htmlDistinguished Service AwardsIAN & MARGARET BROWN - Vancouver IslandSection (joined ACC 1978)“Ian and Margaret have always been ateam in everything regarding the ACC.”Along with leading many trips they havebeen involved in lobbying for park status,park planning and management, trailbuilding and local access issues. “<strong>The</strong>irenergy and enthusiasm continues to motivateall members, new and old.”IRENE GOLDSTONE - Vancouver Section(joined ACC 1978)Irene has given service to the sectionin each and every year that she has beena member. She has been MembershipChair, Secretary, Chair and Archivist <strong>of</strong> theVancouver Section. “Her attention to detailand commitment to see a task through tocompletion was indispensable to the effectivefunctioning <strong>of</strong> the Vancouver Section.”JOHN HARROP - Calgary Section(joined ACC 1993)John has spent six years as VP Facilities.He was very active on the Huts, <strong>Club</strong>houseand Energy Waste Water Managementcommittees. He has been the <strong>Club</strong>houseCommittee Chair from 1998 until present.“John added flair and style to all <strong>of</strong> thejobs that were completed over the years. Henever did just what was required; he alwayswent a step beyond to ensure a quality jobwith pizzaz.”JULIA KEENLISIDE - Edmonton Section(joined ACC 1993)Julia has chaired the Jennifer HigginsFund since its inception and has alsobeen Membership Coordinator, Chair andSection Rep for the Edmonton Section.“Julia has promoted and encouraged womenboth at a local and national level to beinvolved in mountaineering to a greaterdegree.”CINDY KLASSEN - Manitoba Section(joined ACC 1993)Cindy has been Secretary and Chair <strong>of</strong>the Manitoba Section. In her capacity asChair she implemented the Section TripLeaders Handbook, the leaders’ coursesand developed the course syllabuses for18 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002beginning and intermediate climbers.“Cindy has been the Manitoba Section’smost enthusiastic and dedicated proponentfor many years.”KEN LARLEE - Edmonton Section(joined ACC 1993)Ken has been involved in many areas<strong>of</strong> the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong>. He has assisted withrenovations on the Wates-Gibson and BowHuts, was chair <strong>of</strong> the Alberta Sections, wasChairman and Climbing Chairman <strong>of</strong> theEdmonton Section and helped design andconstruct the climbing wall at the University<strong>of</strong> Alberta. “In summary he has provided aninvaluable contribution to the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong>and the Edmonton Section.”JAY MacARTHUR - Vancouver Section(joined ACC 1988)Jay has been a member <strong>of</strong> the ACC forover 25 years. During this time he has leadboth trips and camps for the VancouverSection. Jay has served on the sectionexecutive as well as chairing the FMCBC.New Awards ...GoodVolunteers Take Us to the Top!Photo by Clive CorderyJay has represented the ACC VancouverSection, ACC National and all mountaineersto the B.C. Government for conservation<strong>of</strong> the mountain environment. Jay was theACC rep. and co-chair <strong>of</strong> the Recreation andConservation Committee <strong>of</strong> the Federation<strong>of</strong> Mountain <strong>Club</strong>s <strong>of</strong> British Columbia(FMCBC) for over 15 years. His effortscontributed to the FMCBC addressingmany <strong>of</strong> the access and environmental issuesfacing the government <strong>of</strong> British Columbiain the past two decades.SHELLEY McKINLAY - Saskatchewan Section(joined ACC 1987)Shelley was instrumental in formingthe current Saskatchewan Section <strong>of</strong> the<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>. She has held severalnews on two fronts: <strong>The</strong> National Board <strong>of</strong> Directors has approved twonew awards within the <strong>Club</strong>’s awards structure, and the deadline foraward nominations for 2002 has been extended to March 1, 2002.Regarding the new awards:<strong>The</strong> ACC Service Award will recognise members who have made a contribution tothe <strong>Club</strong> in one or more areas at the section and/or national levels. Note that the existingDistinguished Service Award is being retained to continue recognising those memberswhose service contributions to the <strong>Club</strong> have been more sustained over a longer period <strong>of</strong>time.<strong>The</strong> ACC Leader Award will recognise members who have demonstratedmountaineering or ski mountaineering leadership at the section and/or national levels.<strong>The</strong> existing Silver Rope for Leadership Award will continue to be reserved for memberswho have given a long term and high level <strong>of</strong> leadership to the <strong>Club</strong> or Section.Nominations for these and all other ACC awards for this year can be submitted to theNational Office until March 1, 2002. Following this date, the ACC Awards Committeewill review all nominations submitted and make its recommendations to the nationalBoard <strong>of</strong> Directors. <strong>The</strong> Board will then make the final decisions, with the approvedawards being presented at the May 11, 2002 AGM in Vancouver (or mailed out in Mayto those recipients who can’t make it to the AGM). Thanks to all Awards Committeevolunteers for their efforts: Tom Haslam-Jones, Montreal; Paul Geddes (Chair), Toronto;Dave McCormick, Saskatoon; Rod Plasman, Canmore; Bev Bendell, Canmore; and MikeThompson, Vancouver.Full information and award nomination forms are available on the ACC nationalwebsite at www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/awards.
positions on the executive and is currentlythe section’s Activities Coordinator. Shelleyencourages members at all levels to becomeinvolved in all aspects <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Club</strong>’s activities,from volunteering at local fundraisers toleading skills clinics to participating inleadership courses and leading multi-daytrips. Shelley, herself, sets an example foreveryone to follow with her energy andenthusiasm.Shelley leads several trips each year,including a women’s climbing weekend. Shehas also been Camp Manager for NationalCamps. As well, every two years Shelleymanages to co-organize and co-lead anexpedition to the Himalayas. She was thefirst Canadian woman to summit BroadPeak in Pakistan, and this surely is pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>her skills and commitment.PETER MUIR - Manitoba Section(joined ACC 1991)Another multi-talented member, Peterhas been co-VP Activities (with Cam Roe<strong>of</strong> Calgary), is now VP Access/Environmentand chair <strong>of</strong> the legal committee, and hasbeen both the Secretary and Chair <strong>of</strong> theManitoba Section. Peter has volunteered ascamp manager for many national camps,including the Japanese Mount Alberta campin 2000. Peter participated in the 1998summer North Face Leadership programand was on the 1992 Mount Manitobaexpedition. At the Section level, Peternegotiated the placement <strong>of</strong> the Section’sclimbing wall on the Winnipeg army baseproperty, contributed to the Trip LeadersHandbook and has lead a number <strong>of</strong> sectionclub climbs.CAM ROE - Calgary Section(joined ACC 1982)Cam has become an energetic andinvaluable asset to the club. A longtimecontributor to the activities <strong>of</strong> the CalgarySection, Cam became a skilled and trustedtrip leader for the section early on underthe tutelage <strong>of</strong> his father, Rick Roe. CamA.O. Wheeler Legacy AwardAtthe Guides Ball last October, the A.O. Wheeler Legacy Award was presented toHeather Mortimer for her outstanding contributions to the <strong>Club</strong> over severaldecades. She joined in 1977 and has since served the <strong>Club</strong> well in many capacities.Starting in 1980, Heather was the Membership Secretary <strong>of</strong> the Calgary Section; she was aco-organizer <strong>of</strong> the 1982, 1986 and 1989 Mountain Leadership conferences; she served onthe Huts Committee; and she organized all the food for the 1989 Bow Hut constructionproject (some 2,500 meals!). Heather was awarded the Distinguished Service Award in1989.Her greatest contribution, however, was serving as the head <strong>of</strong> the Mountain GuidesBall (MGB) Committee, which she ran for each <strong>of</strong> its first eleven years. During yearswhen club revenues were desperately required, the MGB contributed over $180,000 toclub c<strong>of</strong>fers. <strong>The</strong> MGB also provides a wonderful opportunity for over 350 members <strong>of</strong>the Canadian climbing community to come together once a year in a festive, celebratoryatmosphere and honour its leaders. Over the years proceeds from the MGB have gonetowards the Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Centre, the Environment Fund, <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>publications, the Elizabeth Parker Hut renovations, capital projects such as the Canmore<strong>Club</strong>house, and to the Leadership Development Program.Heather spearheaded the entire development <strong>of</strong> the MGB and is largely responsiblefor its continued success. Had she ever lost interest in continuing to promote and supportthe event, it may not have continued. Even now, after 11 years <strong>of</strong> promoting, pampering,cajoling, negotiating, nurturing, and caring, she still has the time and interest to sit onorganizing committee meetings and is excited about the upcoming Ball on October 26,2002.Congratulations, Heather!acted as vice-chairman and chairman forthe section during the early 1990’s. Withhis usual wit, he also organized the annualphotography contest for many years. Atthe national level, Cam has served inthe following roles: VP Activities 1996until present; Chair, Canadian CenterFor Mountaineering and Board MemberCanadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Center, both from 1998until present. As well, Cam has managedmany national summer and winter camps aswell as regularly contributing to the GeneralMountaineer Camp as an amateur leader.DAVID TOOLE - Montreal Section(joined ACC 1989)Dave Toole was active in the MontrealSection first as Secretary for three years andthen as Chair for three years, in the period1989-1995. As Secretary he was active inobtaining documentation from the State <strong>of</strong>New York on the original establishment <strong>of</strong>Montreal <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> Inc., which ownsKeene Farm (<strong>The</strong> original documents werelost in the farmhouse fire <strong>of</strong> about 1972).During his tenure <strong>of</strong> the Chair he led a weeklong ski trip in the Chic-Choc mountains<strong>of</strong> the Gaspe, besides regularizing several <strong>of</strong>the Section policies on member activities.At the National level, David has performedthe following roles: VP Services 1993-1994,Secretary 1994-1998, 2000-2001, andTreasurer 1998-2001. He has also chairednumerous permanent and ad-hoccommittees in these roles, the most notablebeing the Finance Committee and theEndowment Fund Committee. He iscurrently the <strong>Club</strong>'s President.<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 19
Financial GrantsToall those who applied for a grantfrom the <strong>Club</strong>’s Endowment,Environment, Jen Higgins and Helly HansenAdventure funds prior to the Jan. 31deadline: the announcement regardingsuccessful grant applications for this yearwill be made on March 15, 2002.To all those who wanted to apply, butdidn’t: too bad, start thinking about yourplans for 2003; and sometime prior to thedeadline for next year’s grant applications(January 31/03), check out the ACC websiteat www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/funds forinformation and application forms.Also, please keep in mind two otherupcoming opportunities for financialsupport from the ACC:● the deadline for applications to the KarlNagy Memorial Scholarship for this yearis February 28, 2002. See the article onthis page regarding this new scholarshipcommemorating an outstanding mountainKarl Nagy Memorial ScholarshipUntilhis death on August 29,2000, Karl Nagy set anoutstanding example as a mountain guide,instructor and climbing partner. He waswell known for his leadership and technicalskills, making him the mentor <strong>of</strong> many anaspiring guide, amateur leader and noviceclimber. Karl was admired and cherishedfor his exuberant attitude and love <strong>of</strong> themountain environment in which he playedand worked so enthusiastically.<strong>The</strong> Karl Nagy Memorial Scholarshipwas established in 2001 to provide ACMGcandidates and ACC aspiring amateurleaders with the opportunity to developtheir skills and abilities within the structure<strong>of</strong> the ACC General MountaineeringCamp. Each winter, the ScholarshipSelection Committee will review all <strong>of</strong>the applications received and approveone individual to be sponsored for theattendance at a designated week <strong>of</strong> theGeneral Mountaineering Camp. <strong>The</strong>successful candidate will observe theCamp proceedings and assist the Camp’sguides and amateur leaders throughoutthe week.ACC amateur leaders and ACMGcandidates will be given priority inalternating years. Applications will beaccepted from aspiring ACC amateurleaders for the 2002 GMC. <strong>The</strong> funds forthis scholarship are provided on an annualbasis from the proceeds <strong>of</strong> the MountainGuides’ Ball, which is jointly organizedby <strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> andthe Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian MountainGuides.guide and friend. For more information on the scholarship, go to www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/activities/leadership● if you’re an Alberta teen and dream <strong>of</strong> attending the national “Mountaineering 101/201” camp July 28-31/02, consider applying for a JimColpitts Fund grant. <strong>The</strong> application deadline is May 31/02. See the ACC website for full details about the camp and the grant.Subscribe toBack Country ®magazineor visit www.backcountrymagazine.comAdventure ski & board featuresEquipment reviewsTechnique tips, tour guidesIn <strong>Canada</strong>1 year – 4 issues: $19.50 U.S.2 years+ – 9 issues: $39 U.S.www.backcountrymagazine.com1-888-424-585720 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002
<strong>The</strong> Board <strong>of</strong> DirectorsMeeting Highlightsby Rod Plasman, SecretaryOnOctober 20 & 21, the ACCBoard <strong>of</strong> Directors held theirsemi-annual meeting. <strong>The</strong> Board consists <strong>of</strong>twenty-five voting members: eight members<strong>of</strong> the national executive plus a representativefrom each <strong>of</strong> the ACC’s seventeen sections.<strong>The</strong>re was a huge amount <strong>of</strong> materialcovered at the meeting and several decisionswere made. <strong>The</strong>re was a strong sense<strong>of</strong> commitment shown by everyone tothe common goal <strong>of</strong> the ACC and thespirit <strong>of</strong> friendship and cooperation wastremendous.Some <strong>of</strong> the highlights from the boardmeeting include:1. Awards: <strong>The</strong> A.O. Wheeler Legacy Awardwas approved for Heather Mortimer.<strong>The</strong> board also approved in principal,the creation <strong>of</strong> two new awards, details<strong>of</strong> which are in a separate article onpage 18. Paul Geddes, the TorontoSection Rep, was appointed Chair <strong>of</strong> theAwards Committee.2. Facilities: Facilities presented new bookingpolicies for all huts owned andadministered by the ACC.3. Activities: Another successful summer <strong>of</strong>activities occurred. <strong>The</strong> 2001 GMC had150 attendees. Plans are well under wayfor the 2002 GMC which will be held inthe Trident Range <strong>of</strong> B.C.4. Publications: <strong>The</strong> Publication Committeehas produced the Hans Schwarz bookletfor the 2001 Guides Ball.5. Finances: <strong>The</strong> ACC is again on track tomeet its financial projection for the year2001. <strong>The</strong> budget for the fiscal year 2002was passed with a break even bottomline. Part <strong>of</strong> this budget approved anincrease to member dues as follows:6. Student Outdoor <strong>Club</strong>: Due to the state<strong>of</strong> the economy and the events <strong>of</strong>September 11, Patagonia has decidedto end their support <strong>of</strong> the StudentOutdoor <strong>Club</strong> Program. However, theprogram will continue on with supportcoming from individual sections.7. International Year <strong>of</strong> Mountains: A lot <strong>of</strong>discussion was given to ways the ACCcould participate in IYM events. UIAAPresident, Ian McNaught-Davis has beenasked to be the Patron <strong>of</strong> the GuidesBall for 2002. A committee has beenformed with Mike Mortimer as chair toinvestigate further IYM initiatives.8. ACC 2006 Centennial: Planning is wellunder way for the 2006 celebration <strong>of</strong>our centennial. <strong>The</strong> UIAA will hold theirGeneral Assembly in <strong>Canada</strong> in 2006.9. Adoption <strong>of</strong> Ethical Fundraising andAccountability Code: <strong>The</strong> ACC adopted the“Ethical Fundraising and AccountabilityCode”. This opens the door to furtherdonations from various philanthropicorganizations.10. Conclusion: In spite <strong>of</strong> the turmoil in theworld today, the ACC is in fine shape.Finances are in order and enthusiasm ishigh. As for 2002 — bring it on!ACC Board Calendar <strong>of</strong> Events for 2002April 13-14 Executive Committee Meeting (Canmore)May 11-12 Board <strong>of</strong> Directors Meeting (Vancouver)May 11 Annual General Meeting (Vancouver)ACC National Membership Fee Increase effectiveJanuary 1, 2002:● Single Membership by $3● Family Membership by $4● Junior Membership by $1Some sections also increased their feesJanuary 1st. Ask your section for details.<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 21
An exciting new sport is developing in Europe: Competition Ski Mountaineering. <strong>The</strong> ACC is a supporter <strong>of</strong> this and began canvassingthe Canadian ski community during December 2001 to gauge the level <strong>of</strong> interest in ski mountaineering competition in order to assemblea two-person ‘national team’ as requested by the ISMC, to compete at the upcoming World Championships, January 23 - 27, in SerreChevalier, France. Enthusiasm ran high, but short notice combined with the fact that strong skiers are usually working skiers, meantthat many nominees found themselves unable to free up the time required to travel and compete. After much last minute arranging, PtorSpricenieks <strong>of</strong> Whistler and Rich Haywood <strong>of</strong> Squamish agreed to be the Canadian National Ski Mountaineering Competition Teamfor 2002. Wish our boys luck! You can find out more about the world championships, and ski mountaineering competitions generally,through www.ski-mountaineering.org. You can support and encourage the team effort through David Dornian, Chair, Canadian SkiMountaineering Competition Committee c/o <strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s National Office (address on page 3).Terrible Weather Doesn’t Stop Braveryand Enthusiasmby Ian McNaughtDavis, President UIAAReprinted with permission from<strong>The</strong> Journal <strong>of</strong> the UIAAEuropean Ski Mountaineering<strong>The</strong> Competitions were held in Jacain Spain over the weekend <strong>of</strong> March 3,2001. As it turned out this weekend was one<strong>of</strong> the worst times for weather that I haveever spent in the mountains. For four daysthe rain was torrential and non stop with acloud level not far above the village. I cameto the conclusion that the rains in Spain donot fall mainly in the plains.I had <strong>of</strong>ten wondered how such acompetition could possibly take place inthose conditions and that it did actually takeplace was a tribute to all the participants,the volunteers from the ISMC, the GuardaCivil and from the staff <strong>of</strong> the resort itself.Quite soon it became quite clear thatthe original route covering several summitswould be impossible in impenetrable fogso a new track had to be laid out andsupervised to climb up a mountain and skiback down it, no lifts, no piste. <strong>The</strong> resortitself had plenty <strong>of</strong> snow but as the coldheavy rain fell it became almost unskiable.But we were optimists. At 7:30 AM we stoodin our waterpro<strong>of</strong>s watching the competitorsarrive. We cowered out <strong>of</strong> the wind andrain in what little shelter there was; crowdedwith the participants, trainers, and a fewbrave supporters.Even some <strong>of</strong> the women competitorswere chanting for a cancellation, which Ithought quite smart, but it turned out thatthey were only joking.At 8:00 AM the juniors left, running upthe easy angled slope to the steeper slopesabove, the freezing rain driving throughtheir thin, colourful lycra vests. <strong>The</strong>y werealready chilled by the wait for the start.Fifteen minutes later the women left withlots <strong>of</strong> cheering from the small crown<strong>of</strong> supporters. Half an hour later the22 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002seniors left looking rather better clad t<strong>of</strong>ace the inclement conditions than theirpredecessors. <strong>The</strong>y disappeared into theclouds and we huddled on the veranda <strong>of</strong> abuilding trying to keep warm to await theirreturn.<strong>The</strong> regulations <strong>of</strong> ski mountaineeringsay that you should have two or three layers<strong>of</strong> clothing. I had six: thermal vest, woolshirt, wool pullover, fleece jacket, down skijacket and waterpro<strong>of</strong> and I was cold andwet. I almost felt sorry for the competitorsand had difficulty imagining the conditionsabove.It wasn’t too long before I found out. <strong>The</strong>youngsters arrived wet, cold and distressedand collapsed into the arms <strong>of</strong> the line <strong>of</strong>volunteers awaiting to remove their skis,wrap them in a blanket and carry them intothe warming room to be rubbed down andfed hot drinks. More and more arrived andwere handled with care and kindness andonly five had to be taken to the clinic torecover. As they all returned careful checkswere made <strong>of</strong> numbers and finally theseniors arrived looking more comfortable intheir waterpro<strong>of</strong>s.Photo by: Jaca PressGiven the conditions the organisationcould not have been better. <strong>The</strong>re was painand suffering but they all recovered to cometo hear the final results and collect their cupsand medals. <strong>The</strong> presentation ceremonydidn’t quite go as planned and the awardswere in one corner <strong>of</strong> a large room and therostrum in another. <strong>The</strong>re were delays andthe French team went home, sadly leavinggaps on the winners platform. But thiswas all forgotten as the Belgian team cameforward. Because they had skied togetherand held hands as they crossed the finishingline, they all ended up first and insisted onclimbing and balancing on the number oneplatform to be presented with their medals.<strong>The</strong>ir humour and enthusiasm delightedeveryone.It was a great test for all, especiallythe competitors and the organisers. <strong>The</strong>conditions were exceptionally bad, but theshow went on and it was a credit to everyonethere that it was all done in a spirit <strong>of</strong>tolerance and good humour. It is, however,better on a sunny day.
National Office Newsby Bruce Keith, Executive Director<strong>The</strong>National Office has been abeehive <strong>of</strong> activity over thepast six months - never a dull moment! Andin the midst <strong>of</strong> it all, there have been somenoteworthy changes to staff and their roles.After almost 15 years with the ACC,Leslie DeMarsh decided to move on lastOctober. What a loss (for us)! <strong>The</strong> things sheaccomplished during her tenure are muchtoo long to mention here. Suffice it tosay that she is sorely missed, not just bythe staff, but also by the many, manyACC friends she’s made through the years.Good luck to Leslie in her new job asthe Executive Director <strong>of</strong> the CanadianReflexology Association (based in Calgary).Joining us in December, from her workwith the YWCA in Banff, is AudreyWheeler, our new “Director, <strong>Club</strong>Programs”. Audrey is a Rocky MountainSection member, a resident <strong>of</strong> Canmore anda volunteer for various community events.Prior to joining the staff, she organised thehighly successful Rocky Mountain Sectionwork party (under Peter Fuhrmann) thatput in a marked trail to the Abbot Hut(see article on page 5). She is active inthe outdoors, has a special passion forthe mountains, and is looking forward toher increased involvement with the <strong>Club</strong>and the mountaineering community. Forthose <strong>of</strong> you familiar with <strong>Club</strong> history, hername probably sounds familiar. However,she claims no relation (at least not yet) tothe <strong>Club</strong>’s first President, A. O. Wheeler(1906-1910). Welcome aboard, Audrey!Together with these changes, NancyHansen has taken on new responsibilitiesin her usual quiet and competent way.As the new “Director, Facilities andMountaineering”, she now has NationalOffice responsibility for ACC nationalcamps and trips in addition to managingthe <strong>Club</strong>house and huts. Yes, her cuprunneth over, but she continues to receiveoutstanding support from a variety <strong>of</strong> staffmembers: Shannon Dick, our trips/campscoordinator; Dan Verrall, Claude Lauzonand others in our facilities maintenance area;and Luther McLain and the <strong>Club</strong>housereception/operations staff.Josee Larochelle continues to holdthings together as our “Office Manager/Membership Coordinator”, ably assisted byTracy Hedge. Rounding <strong>of</strong>f the groupare Suzan Chamney, our part-time“Development and CommunicationsManager”, and Kevin Lohka, “Finance andInformation Technology Manager”.I am extremely pleased with the way allthe staff have pulled together over the lastseveral months to “get the job done”. Ourfirst priority is to serve you, so please letus know if there’s something we can do foryou.We all wish you a safe and enjoyable2002!Photographers …Do you have great pictures <strong>of</strong> your alpine adventures?Send them to us and Win some Great Draw Prizes!<strong>The</strong>National Office is building an archive <strong>of</strong> ACC huts, people, activities,Canadian mountain scenery, and historic mountain pictures; and we needyour help! If you have photographs or slides that you would be proud to share and willingto allow us to use in ACC slide shows, brochures, books, and other promotional material,please send them to the address below.We will put the names <strong>of</strong> all contributors into a hat and draw the names <strong>of</strong> five luckywinners. Each winner will receive a complimentary two-year renewal <strong>of</strong> their current ACCmembership, a $25 gift certificate for ACC merchandise, an ACC <strong>Alpine</strong> Huts book, anda beautiful 2002 International Year <strong>of</strong> the Mountains calendar.Please submit your pictures to: ACC Photo Contest, P.O. Box 8040, Canmore, AB,T1W 2T8. Please be sure to include the photographer’s name, content information such asthe location, names <strong>of</strong> people, and approximate date <strong>of</strong> each photograph, and your returnaddress so that we can return them!Le FestivalD’escaladeSur Glace DeSaint-Bonifaceby André Mahé, St. Boniface SectionSt. Boniface Section <strong>of</strong> the<strong>The</strong> ACC will be hosting its secondannual Ice Climbing Festival andCompetition on February 15, 16 & 17,2002. <strong>The</strong> competition will be held on<strong>Canada</strong>’s highest free standing ice tower,located on the banks <strong>of</strong> the Red River inthe heart <strong>of</strong> Winnipeg. Two events willbe features: Speed and Difficulty. Greatprizes, ice climbing clinics and social eventswill make this ice festival a truly funexperience. We hope to see you there! Formore information visit us at our web site:www.cesb.netCLASSIFIED ADSCampbell Icefield ChaletSelf catered groupsDiscounted rates in springNew chalet for 2003 seasonPhone: (403) 673-2198E-mail: lomas@telusplanet.netClassifi ed Ads:Up to 25 words for $100 per issue$75 for <strong>Club</strong> MembersEmail your ad to: Gazette@telusplanet.netor mail to the address on page 3.Photo by Michael Dithlevsen<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 23